Mounting sliders to chassis - DIY

[AB]

Ok, as some of you know I am taking a set of scrub bar slider combo from another vehicle...Yes, another vehicle which we won't go into what kind of vehicle that is...lol

Anyways, just thinking of the best way to mount this as I have realised the sliders are welded to the chassis of the other vehicle.

I'm thinking of cutting them off and welding a wedge to the end of the tube and welding that onto a "U" bracket to wrap around the underside of the chassis and bolt on top of the chassis to clamp onto the chassis itself.

This should minimise any overhang under the chassis to get caught on things.

What does everyone think of the below example?

Questions are:

What thickness should the U shape be? 10mm????

One or two bolts at the top to clamp shut the U bracket?

10574

[patch697]

AB, meybe some of the members who have them fitted already can take some pics & post them up to give you an idea if what other manufacturers have done to mount them in a Patrol.

Just a thought.

[Dhuck]

I have 4 of mounts along both sides on mine. The front one is made from 75mm Box and bolts on at a mounting point on the chassis. The other 3 are 50mm Box with u brackets made with 8mm flat and have 2 bolts through the top. When it dry's up up here I will try to take a couple of pics for you. May be a little difficult as I have 8mm flat running along the distance of the mounts.

[BillsGU]

Mine are bolted on the same way you have drawn in the diagram AB. And if I remember correctly they use the same holes the factory steps (GU) used.

[Ben-e-boy]

I think it depends on how strong you want it and if you want to use it as a jacking point.

Because I have a long arm kit no slider on the market will fit my ute. I need to make my own. I was thinking of using 8mm x 100mm flat bar bent to suit the chassis. the first bend is at 130degrees
in the middle of the flat bar. I would then bend my 90 degree bends to make a W shape. then I will flatern out the 130 degree bend to give me my u shape I will use 2 bolt and heavilly gussett the bracket I want my sliders to support the full weight of the ute

[Dhuck]

I think it depends on how strong you want it and if you want to use it as a jacking point.

Because I have a long arm kit no slider on the market will fit my ute. I need to make my own. I was thinking of using 8mm x 100mm flat bar bent to suit the chassis. the first bend is at 130degrees
in the middle of the flat bar. I would then bend my 90 degree bends to make a W shape. then I will flatern out the 130 degree bend to give me my u shape I will use 2 bolt and heavilly gussett the bracket I want my sliders to support the full weight of the ute

There is no weight in your ute. But yes mine are extremely strong. Support the truck on rocks and Hi lift jack

[Ben-e-boy]

There is no weight in your ute. But yes mine are extremely strong. Support the truck on rocks and Hi lift jack


2.4 tonne. it weighs more than you think especially with up to 250 kg of diesel on board

I know yours are strong pigtrol weighs 187000 tonnes plus it could support the moon incase it falls out of orbit

[AB]

Thanks for the comments gents!


Mine are bolted on the same way you have drawn in the diagram AB. And if I remember correctly they use the same holes the factory steps (GU) used.

Thanks Bill, unfortunately the GQ standard steps are bolted on the floor of the body with small bolts with a thin crappy pinch plate clipped onto the side panels of the body. I thought I could maybe utilise that too until I checked it properly.

Plassy, perfect mate thats what I was after.

My only concern was the extra inch or so under the chassis sticking out thats all but welding an 8mm plate to the tube and cutting one for the side is ten times easier then making up a U bracket.

Decisions decisions...LMAO

[Dhuck]

That would be the way to go Andy. A job that would be alot easier and still has plenty of strength.

[AB]

The mounting plates are still higher than the slider so you should rest on the slider before you hit the plates.

Thanks for those pics mate, that was exactly what I needed.

Plates it is...Easy job now. I'll wang up a thread about it when I get time to do this job.

[hutchy84]

AB you can make your bracket the same size as the height of the chassis RHS also if you are going to mount the sliders to a flat bar section i would Oxy cut a hole into the flat bar section an therfore would insert the slider half way into the flat bar section as you will get ample weld to the piping section bear in mind when welded properly a 6mm CFW ( Fillet weld ) an inch long will hold 1 tonne.

Also if you have enough clearance you can drill holes into your chassis and mount it that way id be using a M12 grade 8.8 bolt as this will be substancial for that purpose also installing that gusset will be the best thing you can do as this will stop the slider from bending if you get stuck on rocks.

If you are drilling holes especially for things that are going to cop a bit of punishment from time to time and to stop the holes from tearing from each of the hole edges should be a hole and a half to the center of your bolt hole

Also i dont know what you will be welding it with but if you have a stick welder stay away from a GP ( General Purpose ) electrode as the weld is not as strong as a Low Hydrogen weld and personal preference for a welding rod would be a WIA 7016 3.2 or a 2.5 mm rod - Amp range for a 3.2 would range between 90 amps to 120 amps and a 2.5 would range between 65 amps to 90amps.

If you would like any information into the regards of steel fabrication just ask me and i will try and help you out the best that i can ( Boilermaker / welder by trade )

[AB]

Arr, good stuff mate, thanks for the tips. I'll keep that in mind.

I'm not overly keen on drilling into the chassis though, I would prefer to keep the chassis stock without mucking with it.

Good tips on the welding though mate, I'm not the greatest welder in the world so I might hit my brother up for the welding part or even pay someone to do it as I wouldn't trust my welds in a million years to use a jack point too.

[AB]

Plassy my friend...lol

What are the chances of you measuring a plate on yours to tell me what the size is and the hole centre dimensions?

Are they 12mm bolts?

[AB]

Thanks for doing that for us mate, appreciate it!

For anyone else needing this I have made a scale 1:100 plan for the dimensions above...

EDIT: Ive been doing too many plans this week...LMAO....It's scaled 1:1....Not 1:100.....That would be one serious plate at 1:100...

[AB]

Thanks mate, unfortunately I'm governed to some degree (slight bending) by the original set up which has only two mounts either side.

The first one looks like it will be right in the middle of the body mount...LMAO...Just my luck!!!!!

The rear one looks like it should be exactly like your third one too...From inside bull bar 140cm to first mount and another 125cm's to the third mount.

I'm just going cut it now and see where it sits anyway....I know the slider will run short too...About 15-20cm short of the rear door....I'll cut it today if I get time and see where it sits anyway....Nothing better than cutting up a Toyota...lol

[AB]

Big fail today with the bars, they just won't work.

I could bend and twist and weld, etc but the effort involved won't be worth it. If bent to suit the first mount will be infront of the body mount where there is no way to mount.

Also, they are about 200mm short so It's just not worth the effort. Apologies Plassy for getting you to get the measurements, etc...

[wheels]

Also a nice write up from one of your local sites.
http://www.mudrhino.com.au/Docs/DIY4.pdf

[AB]

They do good DIY write up's those guys over there....

[Lieney]

AB told me you had a thread about mounting sliders.
I looked at my GU and needed some ideas.
Cheers for the effort you went to.

[Paul C]

These are similar to mine although mine use 50x25 RHS sections. These sound light but on the high lift I can jack up the complete side with no issues. Also a flatter profile. To date no issues with the cleats sitting a little lower than the chassis rails. Just a little more foot required occasionally to bull them through / over. Definately the 2 x bolts top and bottom are the way to go. The only thing with this that I would suggest is to put the top bolts through the factory side step bolt holes.

[nickverms]

Im going to look at making a set up for my GQ Patrol! This will definately give me more of an idea on exactly how to mount it!

[dsmith]

I need to get hold of some sliders, I can't weld and don't have the time even if I could. I imagine that having a set up that creates anything that protrudes below the actual chassis rail is going to cause a potential snag on rocks. What do the commercial sliders have for mounts?

[gu4500]

I have a set of sliders built by a bloke who called himself Trex back in 2001ish..... They have the plates and bolts above/below the chassis and never hung up - if you are getting too much hard stuff up that high you will have other problems meaning you fail to proceed....

And in reality - unless you weld to the chassis, any bracket will go under & over so most have the same issues. The main thing is to not have unneeded protrusion - keep the excess slim.

[Rustyboner81]

get rid of any ally steps you got. i went into a wash out and bent the steps up against the doors.
was pretty funny at the time climbing out the window.

[angelo_f]

Andy, I'd steer clear of having the chassis "cupped" as it could trap moisture/mud and assist corrosion. My sliders are bolted to the chassis with two 8mm-thick plates both sides. Two high tension bolts top and bottom. It is super strong and I can jack both wheels off the ground with no deflection at all. If you can keep your chassis open to the air I think you should do it that way.



What diameter bolts did you use? I am just thinking of the space between the top of chassis rail and the floor. I have a short wheel base GQ and they way you have used the bolts instead of making a cup is a great idea.
Thanks

[angelo_f]

The only thing with this that I would suggest is to put the top bolts through the factory side step bolt holes.
What about using side step holes as bottom bolt holes. This way you would have nothing below bottom of chassis. Just an idea.

[Throbbinhood]

Sorry for the gravedig, but this post seemed appropriate.. Has anyone had any issues fitting the clamp style sliders with an lra auxiliary fuel tank? Tank is a pita to get out so just seeing if this will be an issue before I buy a set

[Rossco]

Hi mate, yeah I've got drm sliders with the clamp setup and the lra tank. No issues the top bolt sits above the top of the tank so no dramas.

[Throbbinhood]

Thanks Rossco

[JME_GU]

Sorry for the thread hijack just to ask a dumb question, but how do you make sure that the fuel and brake lines that run along the inside of the chassis rail don't rub on the slider bracket?

[BigRAWesty]

Sorry for the thread hijack just to ask a dumb question, but how do you make sure that the fuel and brake lines that run along the inside of the chassis rail don't rub on the slider bracket?
Bend them out off the chassis a little..

[JME_GU]

Bend them out off the chassis a little..

I can't bend them out far enough due to the aux fuel tank. Any other ideas?