2000 GUII Boost Gauge Install

[harls]

G'day All,
I just picked up a boost gauge this afternoon, and as I have never installed one. I was wondering if anyone was able to give me a few pointers on the install (basically what or where the hell do i tap into). It is a speco meter boost gauge with no vacuum to be fitted to a 3ltr 2000 GUII patrol.

[locks]

G'day Harls you need to tap into the manifold. You can pretty much install it anywhere in the inlet tract between the turbo and the intake manifold.

[harls]

G'day locks, cheers for the info it was really help full.
I welded a nut onto the inlet side of the inter cooler then drilled a 5mm hole through the pipe. works a treat.
I took it for a test run, when accelerating it boosts to 15/16 psi with spikes up to 21psi in 3rd and 4th gear it did spike up to 27 psi ( this spike only occurred in fifth gear though). While cruising at 100km it sits around 8 / 10 psi. bearing in mind that there has been no mods done i can assume that a spike of 27psi is far too high and could turn my patrol into a mobile grenade... From reading other posts it would appear that 10 / 14 psi is about the maximum boost i should want to see. is this right?

[patch697]

G'day locks, cheers for the info it was really help full.
I welded a nut onto the inlet side of the inter cooler then drilled a 5mm hole through the pipe. works a treat.
I took it for a test run, when accelerating it boosts to 15/16 psi with spikes up to 21psi in 3rd and 4th gear it did spike up to 27 psi ( this spike only occurred in fifth gear though). While cruising at 100km it sits around 8 / 10 psi. bearing in mind that there has been no mods done i can assume that a spike of 27psi is far too high and could turn my patrol into a mobile grenade... From reading other posts it would appear that 10 / 14 psi is about the maximum boost i should want to see. is this right?

Petty much but you will get spikes none the less....

Check out this STICKY it has loads of info on modding for boost control. Link below

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?89-Nissan-Patrol-Reference-Document.


Cheers
Paul

[YNOT]

It would have been better to pick up the boost signal from outlet side of the intercooler, because that's what the engine sees.
The boost spikes you are getting on their own won't damage the engine, because more air makes a diesel run cooler. What they will do is damge your intercooler. Up to 16 Psi constant is OK, you don't want spikes.
As suggested check the reference document. I would seriously consider doing the engine saver mods to your car.

Tony

[harls]

Thanks paul & tony for the info, much appreciated.
I have just finished installing a catch can,(which is a home made job). I plan to block the egr over the next few weeks and install an egt gauge as funds become available.
Tony, I will look at moving the boost pick up to the out let side of the intercooler as suggested, do you think that will this change the readings that i am currently getting by much??

Harls

[YNOT]

Not significantly. The standard intercooler and scoop is not very efficent, so the pressure drop won't be big. It's just a more accurate point to get a reading. Eg, if your intercooler develops a leak, post cooler pressure will be down but pre cooler pressure will not change.
Watch your boost pressure very carefully after you block the EGR.

Tony

[Finly Owner]

when do you go overseas? or was the mrs going?

[YNOT]

Nah, that was a joke.

Tony

[Finly Owner]

:hijacked:yeah i thought you just running from crabby pregnant women.
Hahahahah

[harls]

Not significantly. The standard intercooler and scoop is not very efficent, so the pressure drop won't be big. It's just a more accurate point to get a reading. Eg, if your intercooler develops a leak, post cooler pressure will be down but pre cooler pressure will not change.
Watch your boost pressure very carefully after you block the EGR.

Tony

Ah, that make sense cheers tony.
Actually while I think about it, does the check engine light relate to any other fault other than water/contamination in the bottom of the filter bowl??
Only reason that I ask, is I pumped a load of contaminated fuel and it cost a small fortune to have the tanks pulled out and flushed. The mechanic managed to salvage 40 of the 60 liters left in the tank. However while driving over the weekend the check engine light came on another 5 times. I drained the sediment bowl at the bottom of the filter 5 times. I have now used the said 40 liters of diesel and have pumped fresh diesel in. I have also added a glass bowled / water trap filter into the system before the primary filter to pick up any contamination before it reaches the main filter. I am just a little concerned that this light may allude to another problem that I am not aware of.. any ideas or is my concern over rated???

[TOECUTTER]

From my experience, high range boost spikes can occur for a number of reasons and it would seem that your engine light coming on may be indicating one of the reasons. The engine has a myriad of sensors around the engine that detect everything not just fuel related matters. I would, however; definitely try changing or cleaning your MAF. The MAF determines the air flow and sends a signal to the EMC and that then determines how much fuel, how much boost etc. If the MAF is dirty (a common problem as a result of oil blow by) the MAF is not detecting the correct air flow; therefore sending the wrong signal to the EMC.

There is a way to work out your fault code by counting the number of blinks the engine light blinks after inserting wires into where the computer plugs in for servicing. I have that written down somewhere in my shed (have moved recently). If I come across it, I will post up the details. In the meantime, try cleaning/replacing the MAF. You will be surprised at how well it will perform afterwards.

Cheers

TC