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Maxhead
12th November 2011, 06:27 PM
Hey all gurus in the nissanpatrol land,

I'm thinking of putting in a Manual Torque Converter Lockup mod in my Troll for when I start towing with it.
I sort of understand how it works but have no idea how to make it. Has anyone done one and/or have a list of parts and instructions???
I think its mostly electronic set-up so I'll be able figure it out if someone has a diagram...
If there is any mechanical work I could be in trouble...LOLOLOLOL

Thanks in advance:cheers:

YNOT
12th November 2011, 06:50 PM
I think Chaz will be the man to answer this question.
Or you could just look at his website; http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Lockup%20Trans%20Switch.htm

Tony

NissanGQ4.2
12th November 2011, 07:32 PM
yeh Kris as Tony has already posted.....Chaz is tha man

From all my readings from various places on Manual lock ups Chaz is defiantly the man 2 speak 2

boots
12th November 2011, 09:37 PM
Juland electronics is the mob that make them NissPat . they have a great web site , check them out , worth a look .

the evil twin
12th November 2011, 10:15 PM
Wholesale Automatics do a kit as well I think...

Mine cost me less than $30. In its simplest form you need a change over relay, 2 metres of light gauge wire and a switch but I added a flashing LED so I knew if it was armed.

Simply put the relay in the wire to the Lock Up Solenoid so that NC is the ECU signal and NO is 12 Volts and common is to the Solenoid.

MY switch was an old school foot operated dip switch I screwed to the foot rest. Dab the swith, locked up, dab it again and back to ECU control.

Some guys have waazanga setups that are speed sensitive etc but I didn't bother

If you go simple then you need 5 parts
1 x Changeover Relay ($10)
1 x Switch ($10)
1 X LED ($6)
Approx 2 metres of wire
Crimps to suit Relay

Cut the wire (should be pin 22 but check) from the ECU to the Solenoid and connect the ECU to 87A, the Solenoid to 30 and the 12 Volts from the switch to 87 and 86 and earth to 85.

If you are switching Earth instead of 12 Volts connect 12 Volts to 87 and 86 and 85 to the switch and the other side of the switch to earth

NissanGQ4.2
12th November 2011, 10:23 PM
Wholesale Automatics do a kit as well I think...

You think correctly

the evil twin
12th November 2011, 10:34 PM
You think correctly

Hiya Todd

... not as often as I'd like too, unfortunately :redface:

Maxhead
13th November 2011, 07:06 AM
Thanks boys, exactly what I was looking for.

Looking at Chaz's s diagram I love it but it might be a bit of an over kill for me as I just want it for towing. Don't really need it for 4wd stuff, so I won't need the momentary switch side of it or the brake side...very cool indeed tho.

I'll stick to something simpler like ET has posted as I just want it for keeping the tranny cooler and better economy. ET, do you find the flashing LED to be enough to remind you TC is locked? Do you ever forget? LOLOL

Anyway, I'll go and visit Jaycar to see what goodies they have.

EDIT, ET the ECU you are referring to, is definitely ECU or TCU, Also, mine's a CRD

Maxhead
13th November 2011, 08:42 AM
Can some one confirm this setup is OK. Sorry, just did it in Paint so bit average

This is just a simplest of mods

Bigrig
13th November 2011, 09:39 AM
Right, time for a dumb question from me - happy to ask them though!!!

Are we talking a manual torque converter lockup that can be switched on or off whenever the driver selects it? I didn't think the converter would lock up at all until certain gear/speeds were achieved?

This is something that would interest me also, as I think my turbo is giving the converter a hard time - if cruising and converter is locked up, apply a bit of power to go up a hill and it doesn't drop down to overdrive or third - simply holds whilst the turbo spools up a bit of power, but the converter seems to have a bit of a hissy fit with power applied and "misses/slips" as such...

Not well explained, but if you're with me, am I potentially burning out the converter and should do this mod also?

Sorry for the slight hijack Kris!!

YNOT
13th November 2011, 11:51 AM
We are talking about an overide that lets you lock the converter as required. In Kris's circuit the unlocking is left to the TCU but it wouldn't be difficult to set it up so you have control of the unlocking as well.

The protocol programmed into the TCU allows torque converter to lock only when transmission temperature has reached a certain level, speeds are over about 80km/h on light throttle. Not sure if the Patrol auto allows lock up in third gear (how sad that I have an auto Patrol but don't drive it enough to know that!) but definately in fourth gear. Most lock up converters will automatically unlock on trailng (closed) throttle but automatically relock as soon as light throttle is applied assuming all the other conditions (trans temp warm, 80+ km/h, 4th gear) are still met. The converter should unlock cleanly if the throttle is opened more than about 1/3.

Being turbo charged you are putting a lot more torque through the transmission and converter than they were built for (I know yours has been rebuilt) so the converter lock up clutch may be struggling under the strain. Fitting an unlock switch may be a good idea to ease strain on the converter then only allow it to lock when you are cruising.

Tony

Maxhead
13th November 2011, 11:55 AM
I started to answer your question Scotty but thank goodness Tony beat me to it. I just would have confused you and myself....LOLOL

the evil twin
13th November 2011, 12:45 PM
Can some one confirm this setup is OK. Sorry, just did it in Paint so bit average

This is just a simplest of mods

Yep, That is pretty much the simplest way to do it. I never had any hassle with the GQ's certainly (have never done a GU) and the LED was enough to remind me to switch it off.

Because the GU's will stall if you do forget you can always add in another relay from the Brake Pedal switch to disarm the circuit (same as how Cruise Control interlocks).

Maxhead
13th November 2011, 01:54 PM
In Kris's circuit the unlocking is left to the TCU but it wouldn't be difficult to set it up so you have control of the unlocking as well.



Just to clarify the TCU won't be able to unlock the TC unless the switch is turned OFF, that's why a brake cut off control would be good just in case you forget...like me....lolol

Maxhead
13th November 2011, 01:56 PM
Yep, That is pretty much the simplest way to do it. I never had any hassle with the GQ's certainly (have never done a GU) and the LED was enough to remind me to switch it off.

Because the GU's will stall if you do forget you can always add in another relay from the Brake Pedal switch to disarm the circuit (same as how Cruise Control interlocks).

Yeah, might have to get the brake disarm circuit as well....Looking at Chaz's circuit it needs a hold relay as well

Bigrig
13th November 2011, 03:39 PM
We are talking about an overide that lets you lock the converter as required. In Kris's circuit the unlocking is left to the TCU but it wouldn't be difficult to set it up so you have control of the unlocking as well.

The protocol programmed into the TCU allows torque converter to lock only when transmission temperature has reached a certain level, speeds are over about 80km/h on light throttle. Not sure if the Patrol auto allows lock up in third gear (how sad that I have an auto Patrol but don't drive it enough to know that!) but definately in fourth gear. Most lock up converters will automatically unlock on trailng (closed) throttle but automatically relock as soon as light throttle is applied assuming all the other conditions (trans temp warm, 80+ km/h, 4th gear) are still met. The converter should unlock cleanly if the throttle is opened more than about 1/3.

Being turbo charged you are putting a lot more torque through the transmission and converter than they were built for (I know yours has been rebuilt) so the converter lock up clutch may be struggling under the strain. Fitting an unlock switch may be a good idea to ease strain on the converter then only allow it to lock when you are cruising.

Tony

Thanks mate - wow! What a easily understood response!!! I was confused in trying to explain it, let alone ensuring you understood what I mean.

Bigrig
13th November 2011, 03:39 PM
I started to answer your question Scotty but thank goodness Tony beat me to it. I just would have confused you and myself....LOLOL

And me fella!!!! lmao

Great answer and something I'm now going to look into - thanks for raising the topic!!!

Chaz
13th November 2011, 10:27 PM
Tony, your transmissions TCU will lock the converter in 3rd gear under the right conditions.

The reason for the brake switch relay is that the GU will stall if you forget that it’s locked and slow down or stop. I think the most important part of the circuit is the Park/Neutral relay which won’t allow the converter to lock in that state. If it does, you’ll destroy your transmission in a few seconds.

The Hold In relay is necessary for the momentary switch with brake release. Its only to make it more user friendly and fool proof.
I’ve setup and designed manual lockup circuits for a few different transmission types (GM TH700R4, BW45 etc) and they all differ slightly, but the principal is much the same. One thing to consider is that after fitting a manual TC lockup system it’s very advisable to increase your line pressure so that you can safely lock it at lower speeds. Our Patrol transmissions generate maximum line pressure at around 1800rpm depending on throttle position, so it isn’t wise to drive below that with the converter locked under considerable load. A Wholesale Auto’s valve body is the best way to increase it or fitting a shift kit helps, but the cheapest and easiest way is to change the transmissions line pressure dropping resistor to one of 1K ohms or more, depending on the shift firmness that you prefer.

This is an excellent mod for towing and it does more for transmission temperature that anything else that I’ve found.

NissPat, your circuit will work, but you'll need to be carefull when and how you use it, without the saftey features.

Maxhead
14th November 2011, 05:17 AM
Tony, your transmissions TCU will lock the converter in 3rd gear under the right conditions.

The reason for the brake switch relay is that the GU will stall if you forget that it’s locked and slow down or stop. I think the most important part of the circuit is the Park/Neutral relay which won’t allow the converter to lock in that state. If it does, you’ll destroy your transmission in a few seconds.

The Hold In relay is necessary for the momentary switch with brake release. Its only to make it more user friendly and fool proof.
I’ve setup and designed manual lockup circuits for a few different transmission types (GM TH700R4, BW45 etc) and they all differ slightly, but the principal is much the same. One thing to consider is that after fitting a manual TC lockup system it’s very advisable to increase your line pressure so that you can safely lock it at lower speeds. Our Patrol transmissions generate maximum line pressure at around 1800rpm depending on throttle position, so it isn’t wise to drive below that with the converter locked under considerable load. A Wholesale Auto’s valve body is the best way to increase it or fitting a shift kit helps, but the cheapest and easiest way is to change the transmissions line pressure dropping resistor to one of 1K ohms or more, depending on the shift firmness that you prefer.

This is an excellent mod for towing and it does more for transmission temperature that anything else that I’ve found.

NissPat, your circuit will work, but you'll need to be carefull when and how you use it, without the saftey features.

Thanks Chaz, great info as usual..

After thinking about it for a second or two I decided I might as well go the whole hog and build in the safety features. I've got the 1k line pressure dropping resistor so it should compliment this nicely.

Cheers.
Kris

WhiteGU
14th November 2011, 02:34 PM
Being turbo charged you are putting a lot more torque through the transmission and converter than they were built for

Tony

Are you sure that the auto box on the CRD is a weak one?

354Nm is tuned into the auto CRD engine while the manual has a bit more.

This would mean that it is 100% essential to do a transmission upgrade if you are going to use a chip & exhaust and you tow a heavy van.

YNOT
14th November 2011, 03:30 PM
Are you sure that the auto box on the CRD is a weak one?

354Nm is tuned into the auto CRD engine while the manual has a bit more.

This would mean that it is 100% essential to do a transmission upgrade if you are going to use a chip & exhaust and you tow a heavy van.

What you've quoted me on in your post is not referring to a CRD Patrol, Bigrig (who I was referring to) has a GQ with a turbocharged 4.2 petrol engine.

It would not be essential to do a transmission upgrade on a chipped and exhausted CRD. For what you are planning you will only need a big transmission cooler, the rest of the transmission will be up to the job.

Tony

taslucas
17th November 2011, 05:45 PM
Slight Hijack here, excuse me lol. If im driving in and out of boggy patches is it safe to select and leave it in 2nd (for example) so that i can give it a bit of power and then let off without the transmission changing up to third? Should i just select drive and let the box do its thing? When is it not safe to shift an auto manually through the gears?

And sorry again for the hijack!

Chaz
17th November 2011, 09:25 PM
When is it not safe to shift an auto manually through the gears?


It’s never not safe to drive an auto manually. Personally, I do it all the time, particularly with the Patrols transmission because it has a shockingly poor TCU that doesn’t control the transmission like it should. The patrols transmission in auto mode shifts too late into 2nd and too early into 3rd and 4th. I always have it in HOLD mode and shift earlier into second and then hold it there a bit longer before going into 3rd and I only use 4th with the converter locked above 90km/h. I do all downshifting manually also, because you almost need to floor the throttle to get the TCU to do it, which isn’t necessary most of the time.

My Diesel Holden Cruze, with it’s 6T45 transmission is light years ahead of the Patrols RE4R03A and shifts up and down perfectly according to load and speed as it should, even though that does have a manual shift mode. It’s a shame that Nissan didn’t fit a manual shift mode to the Patrol.

NissanGQ4.2
17th November 2011, 09:32 PM
Chaz, I' don't know match about aftermarket TCU's, but would an aftermarket TCU fix the shifting problem? can't you program the aftermarket TCU 2 do the shifts when you want it 2?

Cheers

Todd

Chaz
17th November 2011, 09:51 PM
Chaz, I' don't know match about aftermarket TCU's, but would an aftermarket TCU fix the shifting problem? can't you program the aftermarket TCU 2 do the shifts when you want it 2?

Cheers

Todd

Hi Todd,

Yes, there are a couple of aftermarket transmission controllers on the market that do an excellent job. A good mate has recently had the HGM Compushift unit fitted to his Traytop CRD auto by Wholesale Auto’s and he loves it. It’s totally programmable, but as he was the first to have it fitted, I think there were a few teething issues. It’s quite an expensive option, but gives good control and can be setup to personal preferences. Rodney should have a write up on his website about it soon.

taslucas
21st November 2011, 12:00 PM
Thanks Chaz.

A mate always manually changes his mav. I wasnt sure if it was bad for them. Cheers for clearing that up.
My GQ doesnt have a HOLD button, it only has a POWER button on the stick which im sure just lets the revs get a bit higher before changing up a gear (had a VS Calais with the same button).
I am getting a rebuild and having a heavyduty valvebody fitted as we speak and by the sounds of it this will sharpen up the gear changes. Cant wait to test it out!

Dusty
5th January 2012, 12:40 AM
I was spurred to research this mod to address tranny overheating when crawling with larger tyres. I did the easy ET method on my 90 tb earlier today and after taking it for a quick test drive am very pleased with the results. A must for any auto in my opinon. I'm using a push on/off illuminated switch on the shifter shroud in easy reach. I considered the dip switch but decided the hand switch is better for my use.

ripper
14th April 2012, 11:35 AM
Great that this has worked so well for everyone else, but somehow I've managed to mess it up.

I used Chaz's circuit, and found the right wires on the TCU for a GQ.

Now I desperately need help to know where to go from here. On my first test of the manual lock up nothing seemed to happen, then when I turned it off the TCU locked the converter up itself, but it dropped out again soon after. It stays locked for maybe half a minute, then cuts in and out a few times, then works for a bit longer again. Rinse and repeat for as long as I kept testing it.

I then bypassed the relay manually but it still has the same problem. All I can think of is that the relay failed somehow, and sent power where it shouldn't have.

Can anyone tell me what part is most likely the problem now? Lock up solenoid? Torque converter? TCU?

Thanks.

Chaz
14th April 2012, 05:47 PM
Great that this has worked so well for everyone else, but somehow I've managed to mess it up.

I used Chaz's circuit, and found the right wires on the TCU for a GQ.

Now I desperately need help to know where to go from here. On my first test of the manual lock up nothing seemed to happen, then when I turned it off the TCU locked the converter up itself, but it dropped out again soon after. It stays locked for maybe half a minute, then cuts in and out a few times, then works for a bit longer again. Rinse and repeat for as long as I kept testing it.

I then bypassed the relay manually but it still has the same problem. All I can think of is that the relay failed somehow, and sent power where it shouldn't have.

Can anyone tell me what part is most likely the problem now? Lock up solenoid? Torque converter? TCU?

Thanks.

Hi ripper,

There should only be one wire going from your TCU to the converter solenoid in the transmission. From memory I think its terminal 21 on the TCU, but not 100% sure as GQ models did change wiring wise over the years. You need to cut that wire and connect the relay in between it.

You shouldn’t need to use the brake switch part of the circuit because your transmission won’t lock it’s converter in first gear unless you have changed the valve body at some stage, so try just fitting a switch to the TC solenoid and powering it manually to see if the problem is in the TC or the TCU. If it works ok like that, then chances are that you may have connected the relay the wrong way around. Make sure that the common contact of the relay (30) goes to the solenoid and not the TCU.

ripper
14th April 2012, 07:26 PM
Hi ripper,

There should only be one wire going from your TCU to the converter solenoid in the transmission. From memory I think its terminal 21 on the TCU, but not 100% sure as GQ models did change wiring wise over the years.

Thanks heaps Chaz.

It's terminal 22 in our GQ. I tested that with a test light before I cut it.


If it works ok like that, then chances are that you may have connected the relay the wrong way around. Make sure that the common contact of the relay (30) goes to the solenoid and not the TCU.

I think this is exactly the mistake I've made. The wires from the TCU are in heat shrink, and a bit hard to trace which is which (I've got the P/N lock out wire in there too). Tomorrow I'll test which is which with a multimeter. I was so careful with wiring the relays to each other, but when I got to that part of the wiring I remember thinking "okay, they both come from the computer, so it doesn't matter which way they go". I'm such an idiot.
Hopefully I haven't killed the TCU. Tomorrow I'll find out, because I've disconnected the battery tonight, hoping it will reset itself.

ripper
15th April 2012, 07:11 PM
you may have connected the relay the wrong way around. Make sure that the common contact of the relay (30) goes to the solenoid and not the TCU.

You were right. I had terminal 30 feeding power into the TCU, and 87a linked to the lock up solenoid. Can't believe I made such a dumb mistake. After I swapped them over it worked perfectly.

I've damaged the lock up part of the TCU, so now I'll have to manually lock the converter all the time. At least it didn't do any damage inside the transmission, I've had it in and out too many times already.

Having the brake light switch as a cut out for the lock up is really handy. If I was doing it again I might wire it to only work when the system is on. Having the solenoid click every time I touch the brakes was something I hadn't thought about before.

So I owe you big time. First for your efforts with sharing your wiring diagram, and now for guessing what my stupid mistake was. I'm gong to do a full write up of the project, so I'll give you credit in the intro. Thank you.

taslucas
28th May 2012, 07:07 PM
Ok it took a bit of finding lol but im bringing up this old thread.

CHAZ.....i hope youre out there mate as you seem to have the expertise i might need.

Ok so im still having the problem where my torque converter locks/unlocks rapidly once im over 85k/hr. Then sometimes only engages/disengages a few times then wont lockup at all and stays at around 2400rpm.
Pretty much everything has been replaced (new TPS, new Temp switch, recently reco'd box [then pulled down and examined thoroughly], Heavy duty Nomad Valvebody from wholesale autos).

Anyway, the question is.... If i fit a manual lockup switch, will the TCU/ECU still try to automatically lockup without me manually switching it? Or will the lockup solenoid only engage when i manually switch it?

NissanGQ4.2
28th May 2012, 07:16 PM
Thread has now been moved to the Gearbox sub-section

Cheers

Toddie

teno45
28th May 2012, 07:31 PM
Hi TasLucas,

The way Chaz's diagram is wired, you could describe it as "Factory" and "Manual On" modes.

That is, when the additional parts are turned off, it is in factory mode. It will still be controlled via the Transmission Control Unit.
When the dash switch has been turned on, and the foot switch activated, it is Manually on.

Reading between the lines, if you wish to eliminate the Transmission Control Units (TCU) control, all you would need to do, install the circuit as per Chaz's diagram. Except, do not connect the wire from the TCU to the Control Relay.

taslucas
28th May 2012, 07:33 PM
Thread has now been moved to the Gearbox sub-section

Cheers

Toddie

Thanks Todd, I just resurfaced the old thread, i have not the power to move it LOL !!

Chaz
28th May 2012, 07:35 PM
Ok it took a bit of finding lol but im bringing up this old thread.

CHAZ.....i hope youre out there mate as you seem to have the expertise i might need.

Ok so im still having the problem where my torque converter locks/unlocks rapidly once im over 85k/hr. Then sometimes only engages/disengages a few times then wont lockup at all and stays at around 2400rpm.
Pretty much everything has been replaced (new TPS, new Temp switch, recently reco'd box [then pulled down and examined thoroughly], Heavy duty Nomad Valvebody from wholesale autos).

Anyway, the question is.... If i fit a manual lockup switch, will the TCU/ECU still try to automatically lockup without me manually switching it? Or will the lockup solenoid only engage when i manually switch it?

Thanks teno45, just beat me to it……….

Lucas,
You’re problem may just be a bad electrical connection at one of the plugs to the transmission or TCU. Even a damaged wire that open circuits with vibration could cause those symptoms. Anyway, as teno45 mentioned, if you fit a manual lockup circuit, you should still have factory control if it’s connected up correctly. When the converter isn’t manually locked it should still lock up as it does now when you get up to the correct speed.

taslucas
28th May 2012, 07:35 PM
Thanks Teno45, i have an adversity to all electrics!! So it even hard for me to read between the lines!!

taslucas
28th May 2012, 07:40 PM
Thanks Chaz.... Ill have to have a good check of all the wiring.
Ive also heard that it may be an earth issue in the lockup solenoid and connecting another earth strap from the box to the chassis may help (bigrig).

EDIT: i have already checked and cleaned the TCU pins/plugs

Chaz
28th May 2012, 07:56 PM
Lucas, yes there's a good chance that it may be an earthing issue. I can't remember if the Jatco box engages 4th gear through the temp switch or not, but some 4 speed transmissions do and in that case, you may also have problems getting 4th or dropping back to 3rd if there's a bad earth at the transmission. Anyway, its always good to add another one because I recon you can't have too many earths.

Good luck with it,

taslucas
28th May 2012, 08:18 PM
Thanks mate:)

ripper
28th May 2012, 09:25 PM
Thanks Chaz.... Ill have to have a good check of all the wiring.

Sounds good.
Now you just need a crash course in multimeter use, and the Nissan Service Manual, AT section, from about page 31.

Bacho86
20th January 2016, 06:46 AM
Slight thread did here....

Krisso did you end up installing this mod? How'd you find it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

threedogs
20th January 2016, 08:34 AM
@ Bacho86 I asked the bloke who services my auto about this mod. and
was advised against it being a daily driver, as Chaz stated if it goes wrong
you'll destroy your auto in a matter of minutes, $$$$$$$$$
I wonder how many have this mod done on their daily driver ???

Winnie
20th January 2016, 09:09 AM
@ Bacho86 I asked the bloke who services my auto about this mod. and
was advised against it being a daily driver, as Chaz stated if it goes wrong
you'll destroy your auto in a matter of minutes, $$$$$$$$$
I wonder how many have this mod done on their daily driver ???

Amy's uncle has done it on his 100 series Cruiser. It's his daily driver but he doesn't use it for everyday driving, only when towing his large caravan. He highly recommends it for towing.

Bacho86
20th January 2016, 09:29 AM
Yeh there was a post on fb last night that reminded me to look into it a bit more.


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/01/230.jpg

TD - interested to know if your auto specialised was just talking about "diy modifications" or commercial kits available from wholesale automatics etc

I do remember reading that you could expect more ware and tare on your convertor clutch pack due to increased engagement, but otherwise near heard anything negative about it

I'm looking into it mainly for off-road ability to help with low range hill descents




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ripper
20th January 2016, 10:52 AM
@ Bacho86 I asked the bloke who services my auto about this mod. and
was advised against it being a daily driver, as Chaz stated if it goes wrong
you'll destroy your auto in a matter of minutes, $$$$$$$$$
I wonder how many have this mod done on their daily driver ???

Ours is a daily. Only use the manual lockup when towing. Other times you'd never know it was there.
In my system I used all the safety options Chazz discussed earlier, and have had no problems once I got it set up.
The mistake I made in fitting it even healed itself. I switched two wires and fed 12 volts into the TCM where I was meant to get 12v out of it.

threedogs
20th January 2016, 10:53 AM
Big Fletch also did a diagram
Nah just in general as he must see them coming in all the time

ripper
20th January 2016, 10:55 AM
I wouldn't use a single relay system like the one in the picture above. If you accidentally turned it on while in park or neutral, you may fry your auto.

BigRAWesty
20th January 2016, 11:30 AM
Amy's uncle has done it on his 100 series Cruiser. It's his daily driver but he doesn't use it for everyday driving, only when towing his large caravan. He highly recommends it for towing.
Same with the inlaws Prado. .
It's a daily but only used when towing or touring..

Bacho86
20th January 2016, 11:55 AM
Big Fletch also did a diagram
Nah just in general as he must see them coming in all the time

Haven't seen Fletch around in a while? Anyone heard from him recently?

Maxhead
20th January 2016, 12:04 PM
Slight thread did here....

Krisso did you end up installing this mod? How'd you find it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah mate, ended up selling the auto and got a manual instead[emoji3]





….................... On the move

Chubba
20th January 2016, 12:10 PM
I put one of these mods in mine and only seem to use it on the highway not 4wding. The reduction gears are more than enough for down hill. I used only the one relay but with two switches, one on the dash and one in the centre console so less chance of engaging it accedently, with a red led right in the centre of the dash so I can't miss that it is on. Never use it in the city as I don't see the need and the chance of leaving it on would be too high.

growler2058
20th January 2016, 06:25 PM
That's accidentally Chubba :tease:

Chubba
20th January 2016, 09:39 PM
Trust you!!