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View Full Version : Mystery illness GU 2.8



Ian2011
28th October 2011, 04:53 PM
Hey all,

Was away last week and the wifey was driving the troll when she said she lost all power steering, batt light came on, and sub fuel tank light came on, she claims engine was still running although I think it may have been running on as she did not depress clutch, there was also a wierd noise (her words) which may have been engine running out of fuel. After pulling she switched off restarted and drove home. I have looked at the car and there are no obvious faults, belt,s plugs (electrical) and no ECM light. Car starts and drives no worries. To me it sounds like the car actually switched off and when ignition was reset it simply started again.

Any help appreciated

Ian2011
29th October 2011, 09:46 PM
After finally getting into the car after having keys locked in, I bridged the diagnostic connector only to find that there were no faults so I started the engine. At first all seemed normal and the the 'weird noise' as the wife called it appeared, I removed the idler for the aircon and restarted the engine, noise still there, I then did the old metal oblect against the ear trick and am currently thinking the timing belt tensioner requires replacing. I am hoping now that I have not got bent valves or worse. I have removed the tensioner but am unsure if the bearings can be removed or if i have to buy a complete tensioner assy, if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great

Yendor
29th October 2011, 10:00 PM
Man, you are having a bad day.

I'm sure the ferret will be along shortly to help you.

What he doesn't know about these engines isn't worth knowing.

I hope the outcome is a good one for you.

T0nka
29th October 2011, 10:06 PM
Try this guy

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/10/38.jpg

Ian2011
29th October 2011, 10:11 PM
I think at this stage he is the only one who can help, might have a few more beers and give him a ring later

Ian2011
30th October 2011, 10:22 AM
I have found the source of the mystry noise, seems the last tosser that owned the car or the last bad mechanic that done the timing belt did either not put a wood ruff key on the crankshaft pulley or if he did it no longer exists and or forgot to add any loctite to crankshaft pulley retaining bolt, it also looks like the engine is not timed correctly as the top marks align but the crank seems to be in a different time zone.

Now to see if I can rescue the crank enough to refit a key, might have to use some quick metal, any ideas out there on how to best do this?, there is probable still enough flat surface to reinsert a key but there is a small amount gouged out from the pulley and the crank.

SEEBEE
21st January 2012, 05:15 PM
Put another key in and reset the timing, and use loctite as you go. It would appear the key was not fitted as it cant just disappear.

Ian2011
26th January 2012, 05:43 PM
Well here we go again, day two of long weekend camping trip and thats right you guessed it, that damn crank pulley spins again, thank god I was still within 100ks of home for free towing. I now, whilst trying to figure out why I bought this car (drinking heavily) have to decide whether to attempt repairs again or just get a new crank, either way probably should have bought a car with an Isuzu engine, I hear they are more reliable engines. Anyone know a reputable diesel mech in the Alb/wodonga area?

spanner
11th March 2012, 05:21 PM
Well here we go again, day two of long weekend camping trip and thats right you guessed it, that damn crank pulley spins again, thank god I was still within 100ks of home for free towing. I now, whilst trying to figure out why I bought this car (drinking heavily) have to decide whether to attempt repairs again or just get a new crank, either way probably should have bought a car with an Isuzu engine, I hear they are more reliable engines. Anyone know a reputable diesel mech in the Alb/wodonga area?

Hi Ian,
I have had exactly the same thing happen to my 2.8 gu a couple of years ago. But it didn't damage the nose of the crankshaft as bad a yours. I think nissan uses these motors in a variety of vehicles with different pulleys/clearances & if you look close you will see there is bugger all length on the shaft for the pulley ( & woodruff key) to locate on. Doesn't look like you can just reift with locktite. Brunos Mech. Reps. n Wodonga did mine & it's been fine ever since. Maybe you could ask about having a hole drilled into the radiator end of the pulley & into the end of the crankshaft ( between the outside of the keyway section & the gear teeth) with a roll type pin as the locater/load bearing (substitute) woodruff key. It's either that or drop the crank out & have an engineering shop repair (metalspray?) the damaged section of the crank.

the ferret
11th March 2012, 05:28 PM
It's all over for the crank mate, it needs to come out and be repaired back to a tight fit.
Sometimes you can be lucky with a new key and loctite, but from the pics, I would say out she comes.
Cheers, the ferret.
EDIT.
I spose by now you would have had it sorted anyway, so what did you end up doing? and howmuchacosta!!

Ian2011
12th March 2012, 06:03 PM
Hey all,

The crank saga is still on going, it was going to cost 3800 for a mob in Wodonga to do the crank, or 6000 to get the motor bottom end replaced by All Head Services in Melb. Decided to go the whole hog and got the motor rebuilt(long motor) and new injectors and fuel pump from MTQ in Melb, hoping the engine will return to Wodonga this week and get fitted asap. Ferret, it has cost 5500 at the moment for engine and fuel components, with another 3000 at least that still has to be paid (thank god for home loan redraw). Hopefully at the end of this I will get another 2-300,000 ks without difficulty.

Ian2011
12th March 2012, 06:08 PM
Hi Ian,
Maybe you could ask about having a hole drilled into the radiator end of the pulley & into the end of the crankshaft ( between the outside of the keyway section & the gear teeth) with a roll type pin as the locater/load bearing (substitute) woodruff key. It's either that or drop the crank out & have an engineering shop repair (metalspray?) the damaged section of the crank.

Spanner, how do you go with doing a timing belt if you use a roll pin, I had also thought of doing this but did not feel like pulling the radiator and associated components out just to get at the roll pin when the pulley is required to come off, or am I reading the manual wrong and there is an easier way of changing the belt.

the ferret
12th March 2012, 10:39 PM
Mate, it's soooo much easier to pull the radiator and fan off to do the timing belt.
More room for a puller etc.
8 grand, wow!!
Cheers, the ferret.

nissan2005
13th March 2012, 12:40 PM
Who's the ferrit does this person have a contact number?

the ferret
13th March 2012, 12:46 PM
Who's the ferrit does this person have a contact number?
You can PM me here and I'll give you a number or go to www.ferretdeflators.com contact us
Cheers, the ferret.