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View Full Version : GQ Patrol Cutch replacement



Crowman23
20th October 2011, 09:12 AM
Howdy the Old Girl has done a Clutch I bought a new one but I want to know how long it would take a Mechanic to change it and approx how much$$$??????

Hunter
31st October 2011, 02:32 PM
Fairly big job, they drop the gearbox, drain oils from transfer case and g'box, take out the flywheel and have it machined, (make sure they do this as it is always good to start with a flat surface) and replace clutch , also make sure they replace the spiggot bearing. Most mechanics would allow for a whole day to do the job and charge about $800 in labour/machining/oils etc. Cheers

chester
1st November 2011, 11:34 AM
Fairly big job, they drop the gearbox, drain oils from transfer case and g'box, take out the flywheel and have it machined, (make sure they do this as it is always good to start with a flat surface) and replace clutch , also make sure they replace the spiggot bearing. Most mechanics would allow for a whole day to do the job and charge about $800 in labour/machining/oils etc. CheersSpot on there mate it,s a 8.5 hr job and don,t expect much change out the $800.
I do mine myself and pull the motor out instead of the gearbox.

-ET 4wd-
5th November 2011, 10:37 PM
Its a big heavy job that cant really be rushed as it would be real dangerous if the gearbox fell!!
i usually takes me a half a day to get mine out on my own, but i have done it more than 2 dozen times now! ( 9 times in one day!) the rules are use the heaviest lifting equiptment you can find, dont skimp on the lifting straps ( mine are rated 2 ton) do not get under the gearbox for ANY reason and take ya time.
Found the easiest way is to remove all the bellhousing bolts and slide the gearbox back as far as it will go till it hits the floor, Then undo the pressure plate bolts and slide the pressure plate backwards, the clutch plate will then fall out and you can lower the gearbox straight down.
I use a 2 ton engine lifting crane poked through the passengers side door with the strap going through the big hole left by removing the shifter plate. If yours has carpet you my have to roll the carpet back and remove the P/S seat.
To get it back in you strap the very back of the gearbox so the weight is biased to the front. remove the transfer from the gearbox, ( about 17 14mm bolts) and jack the gearbox a little bit, lift the front of the cogbox on a crazy angle and move forward. line the bottom of the gearbox up roughly with the bottom of the engine and them jack the back of the cogbox till it comes up straight. slide it forward and wiggle and she should slide home without any havin to resort to tilting the cogbox on crazy unsafe angles.

Have fun,

Steve.

chester
6th November 2011, 07:49 AM
Its a big heavy job that cant really be rushed as it would be real dangerous if the gearbox fell!!
i usually takes me a half a day to get mine out on my own, but i have done it more than 2 dozen times now! ( 9 times in one day!) the rules are use the heaviest lifting equiptment you can find, dont skimp on the lifting straps ( mine are rated 2 ton) do not get under the gearbox for ANY reason and take ya time.
Found the easiest way is to remove all the bellhousing bolts and slide the gearbox back as far as it will go till it hits the floor, Then undo the pressure plate bolts and slide the pressure plate backwards, the clutch plate will then fall out and you can lower the gearbox straight down.
I use a 2 ton engine lifting crane poked through the passengers side door with the strap going through the big hole left by removing the shifter plate. If yours has carpet you my have to roll the carpet back and remove the P/S seat.
To get it back in you strap the very back of the gearbox so the weight is biased to the front. remove the transfer from the gearbox, ( about 17 14mm bolts) and jack the gearbox a little bit, lift the front of the cogbox on a crazy angle and move forward. line the bottom of the gearbox up roughly with the bottom of the engine and them jack the back of the cogbox till it comes up straight. slide it forward and wiggle and she should slide home without any havin to resort to tilting the cogbox on crazy unsafe angles.

Have fun,

Steve.Thats why i pull the motor out instead,bonnet off,radiator out all the wire's are plug connectors,undo the bellhousing,two engine mounts and moters out.Can do it in about 1.5-2hrs on my own,and NO heavy lifting.It sounds the hard way but with no hoist it is easier and i think safest.

canuck
8th November 2011, 08:51 AM
Is that in and out in 1.5 to 2 hrs?

chester
8th November 2011, 08:58 PM
Is that in and out in 1.5 to 2 hrs?Nah sorry mate, thats out on the shed floor with the cluth assemably off and flywheel off.it,s about the same again to put it back in.
So about 3 to 4 hrs if all goes to plan LOL.

canuck
9th November 2011, 04:47 AM
Nah sorry mate, thats out on the shed floor with the cluth assemably off and flywheel off.it,s about the same again to put it back in.
So about 3 to 4 hrs if all goes to plan LOL.

I figured that. Just wanted to be sure you didn't have some special method. For you it would be 3-4 hours. For me, it would probably be 2 days. I am going to have to pull the 5 spd and the auto eventually. Both have rear main seal leaks. I have been putting it off because the clutch is still good on the 5spd. I figure it is easier to top up the oil every once in a while.

WaxFraq
16th November 2011, 10:59 AM
bah..that's sad reading..my clutch is on it's way..home(?) any day now..so sad..

First Nissan
16th November 2011, 11:21 AM
Just out of interest, how many K's are you guys getting out of your clutch?

My GQ ute has just clicked over 200000K but I have only done 5000 of them so I am not sure of its history.

bazz61
16th November 2011, 12:00 PM
hi , just put a clutch in my dx ute4.2/ 170 thou ks and mech said still had 30/40 thou ks left in it..... cost 1600 all up, put in tuff heavy duty clutch... i replaced as had a slight shudder and would slip with the slightest pressure on clutch petal, cheaper to replace now than out the bac some where towing a van , cheers bazz

nick4884
17th November 2011, 08:58 PM
Just having replaced mine, I went for the CBA unit. Apparently CBA puts together a kit from different sources, so you end up getting good bang for your buck. Machining the flywheel is a must and don't go crazy with the input shaft lube. The little input shaft lube packs are tiny so you shouldn't get more than you need anyway.

Chester - interesting bout going the other way about it. If I ever have to do this job again I might just try it out. Taking the box out was a reeeeeal big job. And getting everything to line up properly took a fair amount of effort that I'd rather not go through again!!!!