Guide: Wiring Spotlights to switch

[Timbo]

Here's a short guide on how to wire some spotlights to the rear of your 4wd.

I used a spotlight kit from Super Cheap Auto. It cost me $80 and it came with almost everything I needed. There wasn't enough cable or connectors for the wires so I bought 2 more reels of wire and an economy kit of wire connectors. You don't have to use 2 spotlights, in fact, 1 spreader light probably works better for reversing but I plan on adding a swivel joint to these lights so I can use them as work lights in the future.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/08/15.jpg

Here is the finished result in the day light. I drilled a couple of holes through the roof rack and the lights simply bolt through them. The only movement I have right now is up and down. Cables are run through 2 holes, 1 in each corner behind the barn doors. I popped the small plug out and drilled them bigger to fit the wires through. Ideally, you will want to buy some rubber grommets to put in the holes.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/08/16.jpg

This is the relay supplied with the lights. I'd never wired a relay before and I didn't realise the instructions were on the box. :icon_bonk: Once I read the diagram, it was straight forward.

A brief description:
White leads are the positive wires from the spotties.
One black wire goes to the positive connection on the switch.
One black lead goes to the positive terminal on the battery.
One black lead goes to the negative terminal on the battery.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/08/17.jpg

One black lead also goes from the accessories connection on the switch, straight to the positive on the battery -it doesn't go through the relay. This is so I can switch the lights on and off whenever I like, rather than needing the high beams on like spotties fitted to the front.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/08/18.jpg

Self explanatory. These are the instructions from the kit. A brief run down for those not too great at reading diagrams.

Spotlight negative wires go to an Earth.
Spotlight positive wires go to the Relay.
From the Relay, run a wire to Earth.
From the Relay, run a wire to Switch.
From the Relay, run a wire to positive battery.
From the Battery, run a lead from negative terminal to car body. (already done) :bananarock:
From the Switch, run a wire to a 12v source. (I went to the positive battery terminal)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/08/19.jpg

Spot lights at night WITH a camera flash. You can see where the lights are angled. The flash also knocks out all of the "glow" from the spotties and it looks pretty crap.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2010/08/20.jpg

No flash this time. There is still a definite spot light on the ground but also it lights up the entire rear of the car. I have angled my lights down to bring the spot lights on the ground closer to the car, as per pic above. The arrows represent where the light appears on the ground.

And that's it. It took me 1.5 days but it should have taken me a day or maybe a bit less. I also redid all of my connections having finished the first time and also replaced my battery terminals with other ones I found which had better anchor points for accessory connections.

The switch is located in one of the black buttons running down the armrest console on the passenger side. I have it so that DOWN is off and UP is on. I did this because I quite often throw my jacket or bag on the front seat and I didn't want it hitting the switch and turning the lights on, especially during the day when I wouldn't know.

Lastly, I will be changing the switch to a smaller silver one. I will also make the lights swivel so they can point out to the side of the 4wd.

[AB]

Great post G, thanks for the detail.

Glad you sorted out the Pin Accessories too! Electrics can be confusing at times.

Agree on the swivel too G.

[Chops]

Nice one Tim, great detail. Do those wires go through the rubber door seals, as in from the outside to inside, or just run along the outside. If they run over the seals, wouldn't you get water running down the wire entering the vehicle.

[Timbo]

Wow, here's a late reply! Sorry about that chops.

There are two small holes in the top corners of the door frame of the rear doors. I drilled them out a bit larger to fit the cables.

There's 3 ways I can think of that will stop water down the wires and inside the holes.

1. Fitting rubber grommets usually gives a pretty good seal. You should be able to fine one that is a tight fit for the cables running through it.
2. Clear Silocon would also work. Wet your finger, put some on the end of it and neatly smear it around the hole and the cable. This will keep water out.
3. Simple gaffer tape. This is what I have temporarily until I get some grommets or settle on silicon. I just simply used tape to cover it up and it works fine. I've had some heavy rain on the patrol here in Melb and it's still very dry. It's a crude way of doing it and I don't recommend it but it's been holding for quite a while now.

[Russell1974]

well done mate great bit of info

[qldtrucker]

thanks mate great post, will be doing mine next weekend

[G-ForceCrew]

Hi Guys,
Just a note is to remember to fuse any power (+) connections you take directly from your battery. Electrical fires can do so much damage. Hope this helps to.

Kel

[patch697]

Hi Guys,
Just a note is to remember to fuse any power (+) connections you take directly from your battery. Electrical fires can do so much damage. Hope this helps to.

Kel

Excellent point Kall & thanks for bring ing it up.

[TimE]

OK, I have edited this post by deleting the wiring diagram.

On advice I accept that the wiring diagram was one that you should not use.

[patch697]

Not the way I'd do it but yeah it would work none the less.

[Yendor]

This is another simple wiring diagram to wire a work light into the reverse light.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/relaywiring.jpg

The problem with this circuit diagram is you will have the load of the light running through the toggle switch.

You are better of having the relay switch all of the load.

Such as connecting

Terminal 85 of the relay connect to earth
Terminal 30 of the relay connect to battery via a fuse
Terminal 87 of the relay connect to the work/reverse light
Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.
One side of the toggle switch connect to your vehicles original reverse light circuit.
The other side of the toggle switch connect to a battery feed.

If you need a picture let me know.

I can draw one and scan it but....lol I may need help with posting it.

[patch697]

The problem with this circuit diagram is you will have the load of the light running through the toggle switch.

You are better of having the relay switch all of the load.

Such as connecting

Terminal 85 of the relay connect to earth
Terminal 30 of the relay connect to battery via a fuse
Terminal 87 of the relay connect to the work/reverse light
Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.
One side of the toggle switch connect to your vehicles original reverse light circuit.
The other side of the toggle switch connect to a battery feed.

If you need a picture let me know.

I can draw one and scan it but....lol I may need help with posting it.

Yep.... Thats the way I'd recommend but just didn't have the time to type it all out so thanks Rod....Top Job mate.

[ZTG]

I put a couple of lights like that on the back of my GQ, also on swivel so I can turn them round the side or what ever, but didn't use a relay, is there any issue with just runing a wire from the battery to the switch to the light (then eathing the other end of the light)??

[MudRunnerTD]

I put a couple of lights like that on the back of my GQ, also on swivel so I can turn them round the side or what ever, but didn't use a relay, is there any issue with just runing a wire from the battery to the switch to the light (then eathing the other end of the light)??

Yes mate, very bad. The full power draw load of your lights will be burdened on your switch which will not likely be rated for such a draw. The whole purpose of a relay is as a switching circuit. The relay carries the current and the power draw and your switch then just switches your relay on and off and basically has NO LOAD.

Put a relay in mate, Its Really Really easy and you basically already have what you need to do it. Get it done.

[patch697]

I put a couple of lights like that on the back of my GQ, also on swivel so I can turn them round the side or what ever, but didn't use a relay, is there any issue with just runing a wire from the battery to the switch to the light (then eathing the other end of the light)??

You would need a fairly substantially sized/rated switch to handle the power draw reqired without burning out the switch over extened use so its always good practice to run the power supply for the lights themselves through a relay & protect it using an inline fuse rated accordingly.

[Ben-e-boy]

and the fuse should be rated LESS that the current carrying capacity of the cable ie if the cable is rated at 12amps use a 10 amp fuse. If a fault occurs your cable heat up and likely catch fire before the fuse realises there is something wrong and breaks.

[Trolatron]

The problem with this circuit diagram is you will have the load of the light running through the toggle switch.

You are better of having the relay switch all of the load.

Such as connecting

Terminal 85 of the relay connect to earth
Terminal 30 of the relay connect to battery via a fuse
Terminal 87 of the relay connect to the work/reverse light
Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.
One side of the toggle switch connect to your vehicles original reverse light circuit.
The other side of the toggle switch connect to a battery feed.

If you need a picture let me know.

I can draw one and scan it but....lol I may need help with posting it.

I have my rear lights threw a relay as you discribed, but I would like to put a 2nd switch near the back doors for when using the lights as camp lighting.Can someone tell me how to acheive this please.

[Yendor]

I have my rear lights threw a relay as you discribed, but I would like to put a 2nd switch near the back doors for when using the lights as camp lighting.Can someone tell me how to acheive this please.

Run some twin core wire from the relay to your new switch, (can be light gauge wire) connect both wires to your switch.

At the relay connect one wire to the 86 terminal, leave existing wire connected.

On the other wire fit a inline fuse holder and connect this to terminal 30, leave existing wire connected.

You will also need to fit a blocking diode in this previously connected wire.

Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.

If you don't fit the diode and you have the toggle switch in the dash set in the reverse light position and you use the rear switch the reverse lights on your vehicle will also come on, and if your truck is also in reverse then a back feed will also happen in the ignition circuit.

Because you are using these lights for camping it would also be a good idea for you to have the battery feed at terminal 30 of your relay connected to your second battery, to prevent your main cranking battery from going flat (if doing this you will have to fit that blocking diode).

What type of lights are you using? LEDs?

If it is LED's then you can just run a battery feed to your second switch and the other side of the switch to your lights.

Hope that all makes sense

[Trolatron]

What type of lights are you using? LEDs?

If it is LED's then you can just run a battery feed to your second switch and the other side of the switch to your lights.

Sorry Yendor I should have mentioned that they are led lights.I'm glad I asked I never heard of a blocking diode befor,I thought there would be a catch to running 2 swithes threw 1 relay.

I have two 27W floods going up above my spear wheel so with 54w there is it still ok to bypas the relay.

[Yendor]

Do you know the current draw of the lights?

I would expect it to be less then 3 amps, if so then yes you can bypass the relay.

[patch697]

Ok...... this is what I did with mine & it works well.

I have a manual override switch in the dash so I can switch the rear light on at will & at the back I put a 15 amp toggle switch in line with the Negative/ ground wire to the light itself so when out camping or wheeling I can switch it on & off from the back as long as the dash switch is on.

Most of the power draw is sucked up by the light itself so theirs not much load placed on the switch. I've run it this way for 2 years now & its never failed me yet.

[Trolatron]

Thanks guys ill post pics up in DIY when its done.

[youngseal]

Thanks folks for a great discussion on relay and switchload, very informative!

[Dapple]

I agree this is a good discussion. I have to go and redo my driving lights now, it probably a good thing I haven't used them for driving (except for a short time to test them). My drivers side head light does not have high beam could this be belcause i don't have the relay installed? (I have checked and changed the glob)

[Robo]

Do you know the current draw of the lights?

I would expect it to be less then 3 amps, if so then yes you can bypass the relay.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?9043-Rule-of-thumb-for-calculating-watts-and-amps.
This will help ya out

[footsinperth]

This is another simple wiring diagram to wire a work light into the reverse light.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/relaywiring.jpg

Will this not turn the lights on when in reverse even during the day?

[Robo]

Will this not turn the lights on when in reverse even during the day?

Don't use that wiring schematic ,Its wrong in every way.
Its direct power from switch and bypasses the relay.
In fact possibly dangerous.

[Silver]

would it be ok if there was a fuse between the + and the switch, close to the plus, and if the wiring and the three way switch were adequate for the current?

[Robo]

Cant remember relay numbers off the top of my head , it's been a while.
sure you will find info on here earlier, probably page 1.
The princable is the same for front spotties only you'd be connection switch to hi beam instead of reverse.
Reverse only supplies enough power to close relay switch.
very little is needed to do that.
and the toggle allows you to turn it off when not needed.
if reverse was wired without switch,new light would come on each time you select reverse.
direct connection to battery + terminal, then to fuse and onto relay is the new power being transfered to your new light.
hope this helps.
cheers.
:icon_driving:

[MudRunnerTD]

Will this not turn the lights on when in reverse even during the day?

That Wiring diagram has now been removed by the original poster. Here is a reply by Yendor on the following page for your info.




This is another simple wiring diagram to wire a work light into the reverse light.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/timber93au/relaywiring.jpg

The problem with this circuit diagram is you will have the load of the light running through the toggle switch.

You are better of having the relay switch all of the load.

Such as connecting

Terminal 85 of the relay connect to earth
Terminal 30 of the relay connect to battery via a fuse
Terminal 87 of the relay connect to the work/reverse light
Terminal 86 of the relay connect to the centre/common terminal of your toggle switch.
One side of the toggle switch connect to your vehicles original reverse light circuit.
The other side of the toggle switch connect to a battery feed.

If you need a picture let me know.

I can draw one and scan it but....lol I may need help with posting it.

Thanks to Robo for jumping on this too. Appreciate your effort keeping guys safe.

[Robo]

All good.
I only hope someone does it for me when I mess up.

[teno45]

quickly played with that diagram thats been floating about. Thats my understanding how it would be.

Switch in one position, lights will be on.
Switch in the other position, will come on with reverse lights.
Always powered through the relay.

Remember to fuse the relay and the power to the switch.

[Mojo01]

Thanks heaps, this will make it nice and easy for e to work out how to put my roof lights on , looks like I can start my project today

[JohnoCass]

always good to see someones work pay off. Spend so long doing it its good to see it done right. good job mate.

[black-str]

Gday, just joined the forum after reading this post and many other helpfull ones! Im just about to run the wire for two 7 inch cibie oscars with 100w globes as rear work lights and also flip up when out bush and would firstly like to say this post has helped me out heaps. Just want to know if my thinking is correct, i have a 5 pin relay and will be running positive off each light to each 87 pin on the relay, does this mean each wire will draw aprrox 8-9 amps per light instead of 16-18amps on one 87 pin (4 pin relay)? Then run one wire fused from battery to relay, one wire from relay to negative on battery, one wire from switch to reverse circuit, the other switch pin to the same pin on relay as reverse curcuit, then the relay will take all the power right? Then i will have the middle position of the switch as off, one way on for light only when in reverse and the other to have on whenever nessicary and dont need the ignition on? ill just put what im running and please feel free to correct me if i went wrong, narva 6mm(30amp) wire inline fuse holder with 20amp fuse, 6mm wire, 40amp 5 pin relay with resistor, 20 amp 3 way switch.

[Drewboyaus]

Sounds about right but I like pictures when it comes to planning wiring stuff.
The last wiring diagram looks good to me, I'd follow that.
Unless you're close to the battery I find it a PITA to pick up the earth there, I'm lazy and look for a decent earthing spot closer to where I'm working, generally speaking......
Cheers
Drew.

[black-str]

what do you mean by PITA? is it point in the area? relay is going right near the others near the battery, as there is a spare threaded hole for an auxilary relay, just had a look under the bonnet this arvo after repling never realised it had 2 other fuses and no where near the quality i am putting on, just bought the car so might consider putting a multi fuse box in.

[the evil twin]

what do you mean by PITA? is it point in the area?

PITA is a FLA for Pain In The Ar....

[Yendor]

Gday, just joined the forum after reading this post and many other helpfull ones! Im just about to run the wire for two 7 inch cibie oscars with 100w globes as rear work lights and also flip up when out bush and would firstly like to say this post has helped me out heaps. Just want to know if my thinking is correct, i have a 5 pin relay and will be running positive off each light to each 87 pin on the relay, does this mean each wire will draw aprrox 8-9 amps per light instead of 16-18amps on one 87 pin (4 pin relay)?
Each wire will have about 9amps running through it. It doesn't really matter if you have a 4 pin or 5 pin relay (as long as it has 2x 87 pins and not 1x 87a pin) The 5 pin relay does make it easier to connect 2 wires to. I would also use a good quality relay, I prefer Bosch relays.



Then run one wire fused from battery to relay,

I would use a 25amp circuit breaker instead of a fuse and this connects to pin 30 of the relay.




one wire from relay to negative on battery,

Pin 85 of the relay is the earth for the relay switching and has minor current draw. You don't need to run this back to the negative of the battery, You can put it under the mounting screw for the relay.




one wire from switch to reverse circuit, the other switch pin to the same pin on relay as reverse curcuit, then the relay will take all the power right?

You need to run a wire from pin 86 of the relay and connect it to the middle/common pin of your switch. Then connect the reverse light feed to one side of the switch and the battery feed to the other side of the switch. As per the diagram above. If you are going to take the battery feed for the switch from pin 30 of the relay I would recommend using a 5 or 10amp fuse mounted as close as possible to the relay.




Then i will have the middle position of the switch as off, one way on for light only when in reverse and the other to have on whenever nessicary and dont need the ignition on? ill just put what im running and please feel free to correct me if i went wrong, narva 6mm(30amp) wire inline fuse holder with 20amp fuse, 6mm wire, 40amp 5 pin relay with resistor, 20 amp 3 way switch.


Your list looks good. In stead of the 20amp inline fuse I would use a 25amp circuit breaker and I would use 5mm or 6mm twin core to run from the relay to each light, this way you can connect the earth for the lights to the negative of the battery.

[black-str]

Thank vendor, Thanks heaps just knocked off and getting in to the wiring now hopefully I get it done this weekend

[yummo]

How would you do it patch697?

I'm about to throw some on too

[NissanGQ4.2]

How would you do it patch697?

I'm about to throw some on too

Patch is no longer a member here, is this a legit question or was it just 2 get ur post count up 2 download the manual?

[lucus30]

Patch is no longer a member here, is this a legit question or was it just 2 get ur post count up 2 download the manual?
I wondered the same thing. But he obviously dug this thread up as it wouldn't have been sitting near the top

Edit: never mind just realised its a sticky