Installing Pyro and Boost gauges in a GU

[Leighw85]

Hey lads

trying to get the idea of how and what you are are using to install both the Pryo and Boost gauges in their GU Patrols.
Having 2 gauges sitting on the dash will probably be getting in the way a little bit.
Any pictures or ideas would be great. Im all ears :)

cheers

[frenzy]

Hi Leigh,
Welcome to the forum. I see you've already checked out my build thread. The pillar pod keeps everything out of the way quite nicely and I reckon looks really neat. LOL.
Cheers,
Steve

[Leighw85]

yeah mate i think its definately the way to go, the pillar pod. Looks fantastic.

[frenzy]

Additionally, if you already have a boost gauge in your dash you could fill the other hole in the pod with a dual battery gauge from Autron.. They look the goods.

[big_fletch]

I agree with the piller pod, looks shmik as lol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?1338-Big_Fletcha-s-GU-III
There is a pic of mine in the above link

Fletcha

[Leighw85]

the boost gauge i have already will be in the way i think of the pillar gauges. So will have to be moved anyway. But you can get pillars with 3 gauges in it. Might get one for my dual battery :)

[Leighw85]

This is the boost gauge that came with my troll. Out of curiosity while I'm driving where should it be sitting?
What should it be reading?8336

[MudRunnerTD]

What engine are you running?

That gauge measures Boost and Vacuum. If you have a Turbo Diesel then there is No Vacuum and it should never go into the "Negative"

I run a boost gauge that measures in PSI and then you can make sense of what guys are talking about when they talk 12psi or 15psi of boost. Running a gauge that measures in Bar is fine as long as you understand the conversion table. Look it up on the net and using a conversion table you should find where your at.

If you can afford it i would be ditching the Bar gauge and running a psi gauge. If you have a diesel then a psi gauge that runs boost only from zero to 30psi would be a winner. If you have a Petrol then you do need a Boost Vacuum gauge but i would still be moving to a psi gauge for ease of use.

my 2c, cheers

[Leighw85]

Hey mate, yeah I have a 3ltr Turbo Diesel. This is just the gauge that the person before me had in the car. I need to get a new one anyway to fit in the pillar I'm going to get to fit the gauges. :)

[frenzy]

What engine are you running?

That gauge measures Boost and Vacuum. If you have a Turbo Diesel then there is No Vacuum and it should never go into the "Negative"

I run a boost gauge that measures in PSI and then you can make sense of what guys are talking about when they talk 12psi or 15psi of boost. Running a gauge that measures in Bar is fine as long as you understand the conversion table. Look it up on the net and using a conversion table you should find where your at.

If you can afford it i would be ditching the Bar gauge and running a psi gauge. If you have a diesel then a psi gauge that runs boost only from zero to 30psi would be a winner. If you have a Petrol then you do need a Boost Vacuum gauge but i would still be moving to a psi gauge for ease of use.

my 2c, cheers

Agreed mate. No requirement for vacuum in the turbo diesel.

[macca86]

My zd30 engine boost changes depending on how you drive it. Flat out it normally peaks at 15psi and very rarely spikes to 18 to 20 but I back off then as this is danger territory hence why you got the guage. Normal driving will see 10psi hope that helps.

[Leighw85]

Could I use the same wiring from the gauge that's in there now to wire up a 0-30 psi gauge? I need to get a 52mm one anyway to fit in the pillar I'm getting

Cheers

[YNOT]

Yes you can. Most boost gauges are mechanical and only need wiring for the backlighting. You can use the same wiring to get power the the pyro gauge for backlighting as well.

Tony

[Leighw85]

Sweet. So it's just a case of hooking up the wires on a different gauge? Nothing has to be set or anything does it?

[patch697]

Sweet. So it's just a case of hooking up the wires on a different gauge? Nothing has to be set or anything does it?



If you already have a boost gauge & your just replacing it with another then all you'll need should be in place. The backing lights may not be interchangeable (most gauges have different holders for there backing lights but some will interchange) but the wires powering your existing backing light will be right to use on your now gauges backing light.

[Wizard52]

Just had Autron dual gauge for boost and EGT installed by AMMS and it sits on "shroud ?" around steering column and just in front of instrument panel. Neat fit so tacho and speedo are still perfectly visible.
Only comment is that gauge is quiet bright as the DX coil cab GU can't dim dash lights

[patch697]

Just had Autron dual gauge for boost and EGT installed by AMMS and it sits on "shroud ?" around steering column and just in front of instrument panel. Neat fit so tacho and speedo are still perfectly visible.
Only comment is that gauge is quiet bright as the DX coil cab GU can't dim dash lights

Get on there web site & have a read.... There may be a way to fix this.

If its the one im thinking of your dash dimmer may not have worked anyway as its a mini LCD read out.

[Leighw85]

Yes you can. Most boost gauges are mechanical and only need wiring for the backlighting. You can use the same wiring to get power the the pyro gauge for backlighting as well.

Tony
i think the gauge in my car is electric not mechanical
Its a Pivot Stepping Gauge SG-BP.
if it is what are my options?
If i did get another electric one will it plug straight in or will i have to re-wire?

cheers all

[Leighw85]

Does the pyro gauge get connected to the exhaust just after the turbo?
Or where about do you put the pin in?
I'm seeing if I'm able to do this myself, going to save myself about $220 by the looks of it

[AB]

You can put it on the dump pipe which is the angled pipe right after the turbo that connects to the exhaust.

[Wizard52]

Get on there web site & have a read.... There may be a way to fix this.

If its the one im thinking of your dash dimmer may not have worked anyway as its a mini LCD read out.

Many thanks. Will do when I get back from Fraser.

[patch697]

You can put it on the dump pipe which is the angled pipe right after the turbo that connects to the exhaust.

AB is correct here.......This is the most common place for a pyro however, not all dump pipes come with the boss for the pyro probe & if theirs not one present then you'll need to weld or have one welded in place.

I would strongly advise against trying to drill & tape directly into the dump pipe itself.

[Bagheera]

I would strongly advise against trying to drill & tape directly into the dump pipe itself.
The Autometer pyro includes a ceramic washer and steel hose clamp setup to allow the probe to be drilled into the dump pipe without the need for a bung. 1/4" (6mm) hole is all that was needed when I installed mine this way, and I can't detect any exhaust leakage around the probe.

[AB]

The Autometer pyro includes a ceramic washer and steel hose clamp setup to allow the probe to be drilled into the dump pipe without the need for a bung. 1/4" (6mm) hole is all that was needed when I installed mine this way, and I can't detect any exhaust leakage around the probe.

Thats how I did mine too using the Autometer brand with the ceramic washer. It's designed to drill and place in with the ceramic to hold along with the hose clamp.

No leaks on mine either, easy 5 minute job!

[patch697]

The Autometer pyro includes a ceramic washer and steel hose clamp setup to allow the probe to be drilled into the dump pipe without the need for a bung. 1/4" (6mm) hole is all that was needed when I installed mine this way, and I can't detect any exhaust leakage around the probe.


Thats how I did mine too using the Autometer brand with the ceramic washer. It's designed to drill and place in with the ceramic to hold along with the hose clamp.

No leaks on mine either, easy 5 minute job!

I've seen this setup & yeah, they seal up the pyro probe but given what a 4WD does I personally wouldn't risk creating a weak point in the dump pipe & the possibility of cracking one when out bush.

A boss in the pipe would prevent this from happening.

Just my opinion though.

[Leighw85]

The ones I'm eyeing off are the autometer ones. So you guys say they come with a part so nothing needs welding just a drilled hole? I'm thinking I can handle that hahaha.
If it's timber I can do it, mechanics and I'm in strife lol

came scross these 2 instruction PFD files for the autometer gauges
http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1129A.pdf
http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/0593A.pdf

unless i get it professionally done i cant do the weld.
for my skill level im thinking the clamping method i was to do it myself.

[guterra]

I've seen this setup & yeah, they seal up the pyro probe but given what a 4WD does I personally wouldn't risk creating a weak point in the dump pipe & the possibility of cracking one when out bush.

A boss in the pipe would prevent this from happening.

Just my opinion though.

Yeah I agree with patch here. For what its worth, I just got an exhaust shop to weld and plug the probe. I did the rest. Cost me no more then $50. ZD's have an annoying heat shield that can be a pain in the ar** to remove.

I guess it comes down to personal pref on this one. (mine is an autometer too.)

[AB]

The ones I'm eyeing off are the autometer ones. So you guys say they come with a part so nothing needs welding just a drilled hole? I'm thinking I can handle that hahaha.
If it's timber I can do it, mechanics and I'm in strife lol

came scross these 2 instruction PFD files for the autometer gauges
http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1129A.pdf
http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/0593A.pdf

unless i get it professionally done i cant do the weld.
for my skill level im thinking the clamping method i was to do it myself.

Yep, the first manual is the one that comes with the box and what I used.

All you need to do is drill the hole mate and put the plug in with the ceramic washer and hose clamp.

This is only my opinion....It's fine, works 100%, I have never seen or heard of one cracking and "IF" it did happen then It's only the dump pipe and you can always get home, just a more beefy sounding car on the way back thats all...LMAO

[Leighw85]

whats involved in getting to the dump pipe?
yes you may be laughing, but im serious lol
i know nothing about mechanics. I know how to drive and learn hahaha
Just wondering what we need to pull of/move to get to it.

cheers

[AB]

I'm not sure about your set up but I would imagine it is impossible to drill anything whilst the dump pipe is installed.

You will have to take it off unfortunately and put it in a vice to drill, weld or whatever you decide to do. Won't be the funnest job in the world and you may need to sacrifice a spanner to get access....lol

You could maybe jump under the car and see if you can get access from underneath but I doubt it.

[Leighw85]

awwww and here was me thinking it might be a realtive easy job to do.
oh well, looks like i might have to get it done at the mechanics.
cheers mate

[guterra]

As I said above... Take it to an exhaust shop and explain that you just want the thermocupler installed post turbo.

They are the experts at welding exhausts.

[Leighw85]

mate that sounds like a top idea :)
how do i connect the rest up after they have welded that in? if its hard to get to?

[guterra]

They will coil the lead up near the firewall on the passenger side. Just run it through to your A pillar (grommet on firewall where its coiled). All you need for the gauge is Acc or IGN, earth and illumination. Pull the head unit out and you will find it in the loom there. Just ground the earth to the metal tubing inside the dash - or any metal piece connected to it. Screw the 2 wires for the thermocupler onto the back of the gauge. Thats pretty much it. I think there are instructions in the box anyway so you should be fine.

[Leighw85]

well shouldnt i have all those wires running to the boost gauge already? I was thinking i could just solder a connection from these wires to the new gauge.

[guterra]

Lights & earth yes, but most boost gauges are mechanical. As in if yours has an airline running into the back of it, then it doesn't need Acc or IGN to power the boost gauge. So you will have to still grab that.

[Leighw85]

the boost gauge in my car at the moment is an electric one if that helps mate?

[guterra]

If that is the case then yes you will most likely have all the wiring there. No problem with solderig onto your existing wires. I would double check the wires with a test light first just to make sure.

Cheers

[Leighw85]

yeah mate, no worries.
Cheers for all that :)
ordered my gauges tonight. Got the autometer cobalt ones.
now i should get them early next week ready for the install :)
might ring the exhaust place tomorrow and see how much its going to cost me to put the part in!

[Leighw85]

Ok so went to an exhaust place today. He said it can't be done hahaha said my cat converter was in the way or some crap! Tried to flog me a sports system then a chip! Is it really a massive issue or was he being a bit of a drama queen?

[the ferret]

Ok so went to an exhaust place today. He said it can't be done hahaha said my cat converter was in the way or some crap! Tried to flog me a sports system then a chip! Is it really a massive issue or was he being a bit of a drama queen?
Cross him off the list!! take it to someone who has a brain, some one on here should be able to point you in the right direction, depending on your location.
I would give Rob at Robson Bros in Bentley a call if I were you mate.
Cheers , The ferret.

[Leighw85]

yeah i did mate, ive got me car booked in there for my EGR mods and catch can.
He said $225 for the install of the Pyro gauge, might be worth just getting it done their

[the ferret]

yeah i did mate, ive got me car booked in there for my EGR mods and catch can.
He said $225 for the install of the Pyro gauge, might be worth just getting it done their
They will sort it mate no worries, If you need the EGR plate, let me know.
cheers, the ferret.

[Leighw85]

Cheers mate. They are doing all the mods for $330 how much do think it should be to install a catch can?

[the ferret]

Mate, just go to supercrap and buy the catchcan, repco for the brass fittings and hose/hose clips etc and fit it ya self.
ya don't need a batchelor of mechanics to install a catch can.
It goes between the pcv and the inlet hose,
It should come with instructions, if not someone on here is sure to help.
That's what this forum is all about, helping people.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Leighw85]

How much does a descent catch can set you back?

[the ferret]

How much does a descent catch can set you back?


http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Calibre-Oil-Catch-Can-Black-400cc-CALOCT04.aspx?pid=155180#Description

[Leighw85]

And that will do the goods? The place where I'm going Monday to get my EGR mod do e was going to charge $550 for catch can and fit!

[the ferret]

Some are around $200, but that will do the job, as they say "ya get what ya pay for" some even make their own, I know I would next time.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Leighw85]

Mite just run with the robson bros mate. They know their stuff by the sounds of it, said the catch can was the best they could get???

[guterra]

Ok so went to an exhaust place today. He said it can't be done

As ferret said, cross him off.

Also to note about gauges in the pillar pod.... I found with the incandescent bulbs supplied, the heat would build up inside the pillar and my egt gauge would have random spaz attacks. - Replaced bulbs with leds and haven't had an issue in over 12months.

[Leighw85]

there seems to be hell of alot more room in your Patrol than mine to get in to the dump pipe hahaha

[the ferret]

Mate, if you really want the boost gauge and the pyro, and you are not happy or have the confidence to do the work yourself then get the experts to set it up for you.
Then you don't have to worry about the lack of room to do the job, let them skin their knuckles or what ever while you sit back in the pub with a beer,
There is a pub just down the road.
The guy that says it can't be done is a......... it rhymes with anchor.
You could do this work by yourself, it seems daunting but a piece of pi55 really.

[suvrd28]

I got a pillar pod with boost and EGT.
My boost gauge has vacuum and boost reading.I went that way because buying an autometer gauge that displays only boost costed heaps more.
I have seen gauges that have more than one kind of display, ie boost and EGT in the one gauge and other combos of parameters

[Leighw85]

ok so took a trip to 4 more exhaust places this afternoon. all saying its a crappy job! $300-$400 to get a bung put in.
this is doing my head in :(

[Leighw85]

today i called Robson Brothers 4x4 like Ferrett said.
they put me onto an exhaust place where they get their stuff done.
So i rang the bloke and he said the same thing everyone else has said (about 6 places now)
All the time is in labour, pulling of the heat shield and moving hoses to get to the dump pipe.
He recommended replacing the old dump pipe (stock pipe) and getting a 2 and a half inch dump pipe installed.

i thought this would make sence, becasue if i want to replace the exhaust system it shouyld all be able to be done from under the car, instead of getting the dump pipe out again.

what are your thoughts peeps???

i think in labout im looking at about $200-$250 + the cost of a new dump pipe.
Anyone got an idea how much a new pipe will cost?

[macca86]

you can get 3 inch exhaust off e bay for $900 and install yourself and drill holes before install

[guterra]

Man I can't believe your having so much trouble finding someone to do the job. Took me 1 decent exhaust place to do the job...

If your running out of options then yeah, what your saying makes sense. If it were me, id replace the pipe if its going to cost you that much...

Sorry to hear about your issues dude.

[the ferret]

What about a small right angle drill, drill the dump pipe, tap it to the fitting size say 1/8 npt and screw the probe into it.
It can go anywhere that you could reach. idea??

[Leighw85]

Yeah mate, from what people are saying on forums, the exhaust places should have no worries at all.
No one wants a bar of it :(

Hey Ferrett, all this talk about the heat shield coming out is what i have my doubts about. Im good with my hands but have no mechanical knowlege at all.
and then getting the pipe of. If i were to do it i would use the clamp kit that came with the gauge.
To be honest mate, i dont have the confidence to do it, and i dont think there is much room for me to even try

[the ferret]

Mate, you don't need to remove the dump pipe as far as I know, just the heat shield to give access to drill the hole for the clamp kit.
The shield IS a pain I know, about 7 or 8 bolts to get to and undo, it's awkward and causes swearing n stuff, but is doable.
Just take ya time, plenty of CRC on everything, crack the bolts while the pipe is still hot.
Don't lean on the top radiator tank or you will be up fer another $400 (tip)
Cheers, the ferret.

[Leighw85]

hmmmmm i might have a crack at it tomorrow afternoon the heat shield then.
dont i have to drill the hole before removing the heat shield, so i know where i need to cut?

[the ferret]

Once you work out the secret to getting it out (it only comes out one way) you can mark it and then cut the hole and mark the dump pipe.

[Leighw85]

do i have to dosconnect anything to get it out? hoses? cables?
the thing is i dont want to pull stuff apart, then have the problem of how to put it back lol

[the ferret]

Mostly just hoses and stuff, don't undo any aircon pipes tho, take a few pics so you can put it all back the same.
Make ya self a bit of room by pulling stuff off and then it will be easier.

[Leighw85]

hahaha i know your trying to help mate, but i think thats the icing on the cake.
the more i have to do the more im getting worries lol
im thinking i might just go with the new dump pipe and get the bloke at kewdale exhaust to fit it :)

I think for peace of mind its for the best!

i will install my boost gauge on the weekend but.
i got my gauges today. the gauge thats in there now is an electric vaucum/boost gauge.
this is where the pipe connects to at the moment.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/1278/imagekwr.jpg

from there it goes to a little black box and its wires from there.
im guessing i can just hook up my new connection and hose up to the same spot once ive removed the old one?
run it to the gauge and wire it up?

[Leighw85]

so will that connection just after the intercooler be an ok spot to connect my new boost gauge up?

[the ferret]

Yep, that's fine.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Leighw85]

ok sweet, thanks bud.
the wires on that are on my old boost gauge, there quite thin. Could i run a second wire of those to the pyro gauge for the lights, ignition and earth?
that way i dont need to run any electric wires. just need to add a secone wire the the 3.

[the ferret]

Mate, As I am a qualified Fitter/Turner/Tool maker, and not an Auto electrician, I feel that I could comment on your wiring situation,but you would be better off to ask a sparky.
"YENDOR" would be best suited to answer your question.
Cheers, the ferret.

[Leighw85]

booked in for my new 2 and a half inch dump pipe and my pyro bung install tomorrow.
the bloke is doing it with the new dump pipe for $300
pretty good considering that was the price i was getting of some just to put the bung in lol

If my pillar comes tomorrow which it should, i hope to install my gauges over the weekend :)

[Leighw85]

gauges installed today pretty stoked it all went well :)
what sort of temperatures should i be seeing from my pyro?
street driving at 60km
highway driving 100km
and 4x4 driving.
and so on. info on this would be great so i know where and what it should be doing :)

cheers

[Leighw85]

Ok so I have been for a bit of a drive over the weekend once I installed my gauges. Can someone let ne know if these temperatures are normal for my pyro?

Accelerating up to 100km on the highway I'm getting temps of about 450-500c but once up to speed it settled down to about 280-350c

Just cruising through the streets once up to speed it settles around 250-300c.

I was just curious mainly on the accelerating up to speed temps.
And sometimes on cruise control doing 100km my boost gauge Sita roughly on 10psi then goes up to 13psi down to 5psi then settles back at 10psi. It does this a little bit. Is that normal also?

Cheers all

[Clunk]

Ok so I have been for a bit of a drive over the weekend once I installed my gauges. Can someone let ne know if these temperatures are normal for my pyro?

Accelerating up to 100km on the highway I'm getting temps of about 450-500c but once up to speed it settled down to about 280-350c

Just cruising through the streets once up to speed it settles around 250-300c.

I was just curious mainly on the accelerating up to speed temps.
And sometimes on cruise control doing 100km my boost gauge Sita roughly on 10psi then goes up to 13psi down to 5psi then settles back at 10psi. It does this a little bit. Is that normal also?

Cheers all

hey leigh good to see you've perservered and managed to get the work done mate..................... as far as temps and pressures are concerned, I can't help there mate but I'm pretty sure I've seen it mentioned in a thread that temps shouldn't go over 500C for sustained periods....... I'll see if I can find the thread

[Bagheera]

I haven't fitted my EGR blank yet (lazy + school holiday madness with kids), so these are "stock" temps:
Street cruise @ 60km/h - ~450deg F (230deg C)
Highway cruise @ 100km/h - ~600-800 deg F (315-425deg C) depends a lot on the weight in the car, roof racks, etc. Cruising at 90-95km/h is always ~250deg C
4x4 driving - ~1020-1030deg F (550deg C), and that was a long muddy hill climb in 4H with 25PSI tyres and keeping the boot down hard in 2nd on the auto. During the tougher track sections it seemed to hover around 450-500deg C, but backing off a little saw it rapidly drop back 100deg C in less than 30 sec.

I believe that blocking the EGR sees a substantial temp drop above 2500rpm (when the EGR valve would normally open). I'll know for sure after this coming weekend if I find the time to fit up the blanking plate and needle & dawes valves and adjust them properly.

[Leighw85]

cheers fellas, yeah your right Clunk ive read that also :)

any info on how to adjust my Dawes valve?
im getting 12 PSI tops and have read it should be set at about 16 PSI

[Chaz]

cheers fellas, yeah your right Clunk ive read that also :)

any info on how to adjust my Dawes valve?
im getting 12 PSI tops and have read it should be set at about 16 PSI

Just undo the thin lock nut, hold the knurled end with pliers and turn the body with a spanner in the direction to tighten (shorten) the valve to increase maximum boost. Then gently nip up the lock nut and go for a drive and test.

The boost level can vary from car to car, but if you still have ECU control it should be ok to run 16psi. If you bypass the ECU solenoid, I'd keep it below 16psi under 3000rpm.

[Leighw85]

everything has been asjusted :) yay

just a quick question on boost but.
when i have my cruise control set at 100km/h, is it normal for my boost to sit on 10psi for a fair chunk of the time. But sometimes it goes from 10psi to 5 psi to 0psi EGT's rise a bit, then it finally goes back to about 10psi and stays there for a while.

is this normal boost behavour?

[Chaz]

everything has been asjusted :) yay

just a quick question on boost but.
when i have my cruise control set at 100km/h, is it normal for my boost to sit on 10psi for a fair chunk of the time. But sometimes it goes from 10psi to 5 psi to 0psi EGT's rise a bit, then it finally goes back to about 10psi and stays there for a while.

is this normal boost behavour?

That sounds normal if you still have the ECU controlling boost and your EGR isn't blocked. Otherwise, perhaps it's the cruse control manipulating the throttle.

[Leighw85]

My EGR is blocked and what's that about the ecu?

[Chaz]

My EGR is blocked and what's that about the ecu?

If you fit a Dawes valve with your EGR blocked, it’s best to bypass the ECU control solenoid at the front of the engine bay, just behind the air filter. If you do this, you may also need to fit a small needle valve so that you can adjust and control the turbo’s spool rate. Also if you go with full manual boost control, you should limit your Dawes valve to no more than 15psi below 3000rpm.

THIS (http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual%20Boost%20Controller.htm) page should explain it all if you’re not sure.

Cheers,

[guterra]

Boost will vary depending on load. Even the smallest incline / decline can see your boost rising or falling 5psi at highway speeds. Don't worry and just enjoy it. At 100kms/hr you should see around 8-10psi most of the time. Go up a hill and expect to see it at 15psi. All depends on climate + load + engine speed.

Do not go past 550 degree on pyro! Do not go past 10psi under 2000rpm (so adjust your needle valve accordingly). Do not go past go! Do not collect $200. Period!

Cheers

[Leighw85]

my Patrol sit on about 10psi on 2000rpm is that ok?
i only have a dawes fitted no needle valve. Is that ok?

[Chaz]

my Patrol sit on about 10psi on 2000rpm is that ok?
i only have a dawes fitted no needle valve. Is that ok?

10psi at 2000rpm is good with a bit of throttle and load, but should shoot up to 14 - 15psi if you nail it. Some people can get away without a needle valve, particularly if you've adjusted the VNT stop screw down a bit and provided you don't have any limp mode issues.

[Leighw85]

I seem to be getting boost spikes.
I have my boost set at 13psi through my Dawes valve, but for a spilt second at times my boost rises to about 15psi. but shoots right back down to 13psi.
Is this a problem? Or is it normal?
In other words what can be dine hahaha
Cheers :)

[T0nka]

These are the gauges in my truck, this video is of a mates truck though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHiOmlN7F3I

They look pretty cool i reckon.

[Chaz]

I seem to be getting boost spikes.
I have my boost set at 13psi through my Dawes valve, but for a spilt second at times my boost rises to about 15psi. but shoots right back down to 13psi.
Is this a problem? Or is it normal?
In other words what can be dine hahaha
Cheers :)

It’s fairly normal in most cases, but you can improve it by turning down the turbo actuator limiting screw about ½ a turn. Then your boost should just rise evenly and stop at 13psi. Personally though, I would set it to 14 or 15psi if you’re only using one Dawes valve and you don’t have any limp mode problems.

Check this link if you're not sure how to adjust the limiting screw: patrol4x4.com/forum/members/geeyoutoo-46168/albums/adjusting-vnt-grub-screw-843/

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[Leighw85]

Ok people, I have a question
Just been on a long drive down south. And have a few questions about the boost and EGT on my car.
I can get boost up to 105km/h but if I want to sit on 110-120 I get no boost which means my car runs at about 500 degrees.

Any ideas why this is? Or what I can do!

[Chaz]

Ok people, I have a question
Just been on a long drive down south. And have a few questions about the boost and EGT on my car.
I can get boost up to 105km/h but if I want to sit on 110-120 I get no boost which means my car runs at about 500 degrees.

Any ideas why this is? Or what I can do!

Have you bypassed the ECU boost control solenoid?
If not, thats why.
My boost sits on 14-15psi constantly above 100km/h unless I take my foot off the throttle and EGT never go above 420c on the longest hills.

[Leighw85]

Nah I have not bypassed that mate. How do or can I do that?

[YNOT]

You need a dawes valve and needle valve set up. The dawes valve lets you set maximum boost and the needle valve lets you adjust the spool up rate.

Have a look on Chaz's website, it's explained better on there.

Tony

[Chaz]

You need a dawes valve and needle valve set up. The dawes valve lets you set maximum boost and the needle valve lets you adjust the spool up rate.

Have a look on Chaz's website, it's explained better on there.

Tony

Good advice!

This is the ECU boost control solenoid valve that needs to be bypassed if you've disabled the EGR.

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/images/AirFilterResonator.jpg

[Leighw85]

I have a Dawes valve fitted but no needle valve. Is that what bypasses the ecu?

[YNOT]

If you have a dawes but no needle then you probably have it set up to limit maximum boost, the computer will still be controlling boost. Are you able to post up clear photo's of the dawes valve and hoses?

Tony

[Leighw85]

hey mate. I had 12-13 PSI up to 100 km/h anything over that i get none? Its bloddy confusing as to why it will boost up to 100km.

Just got back from an overnight trip down south and i only got 4psi max boost even doing 100km/h DOING MY HEAD IN!!!

[YNOT]

Something's definately not right there.

Tony

[Leighw85]

:( so no ideas? i thought that was bloodt weird on the way home today. to only get 4psi at 100km when i usually get 12-13psi

[Leighw85]

this is what i have setup if its any help. Its just a daees valve.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7678/imageabxt.jpg[/IMG]
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/6664/imagecir.jpg[/IMG]

[Chaz]

Leighw85,

Can I ask you to try something for us? That black pipe that goes from the TEE piece at the top of the Dawes valve goes to the ECU control solenoid. At the control solenoid, you’ll also find another long black pipe that goes up over the engine. Remove the one that comes from the engine at the solenoid and plug it into that TEE at the top of the Dawes valve. Don’t worry about connecting the other pipe anywhere for now, but do that and take the car for a drive.

Let us know your comments after doing this.

You will have now bypassed the ECU control solenoid and should get the boost that your Dawes valve was adjusted for. The only problem with this is that your spooling will be very fast, but we can address that next.

[Leighw85]

ok mate ill give that a go tomorrow. :)
but can i ask you a question about the black hose on my dawes valve. That pipe there was kinked after i got it installed.
i thought it was accidently done, could it of been done on purpose? Just throwing it out there.

[Chaz]

If the black hose was kinked, it could have reduced the vacuum to the turbo actuator, which would have reduced you’re boost. It wouldn’t have been done on purpose.

Personally, I’m not a fan of using silicon hose on the pressure side also because it has a tendency to expand and delay the boost signal to the Dawes and your boost gauge. Better to use some pressure hose on that side, but ok to use silicon on the vacuum side.

[Leighw85]

nah that ok mate. i unkinked that hose the day i got the dawes installed. that was a few weeks ago now. So it really has nothing to do with whats happening now.
Ill stick to this forum now i realise your the bloke replying on the other aswell hahaha.

My boost gauge does not go through my dawes valve at all.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/
thats where my boost gauge is connected. from there the boost tube goes to the gauge.

As for looking at the turbo actuator arm and stop screw when setting the needle valve up, do i need to take the heat shield of? hope not lol

So ill try what you said tomorrow. If that works do i need a needle valve?
I just dont understand how i had plenty of boost one day to almost nothing the next

[Chaz]

Yeh, I just realized that too…..haha. It was easy for you... at least I have the same name…lol!

Hopefully, you shouldn’t need to adjust the stop screw on the turbo actuator arm. In some cases it is necessary to help with slowing the spool rate and eliminating the spike, but not always and yes, you will need to remove the heat shield to do it. It can be a real pain to do at times depending on what other accessories are fitted etc.

Sorry, I thought the red silicon hose from the tee at the bottom of the Dawes went to the gauge………… is that for the diesel Gas?

You really should look at fitting a needle valve even if you leave it in the engine bay and set and forget it. It will give you the ability to fine tune which you don’t have now other than setting your maximum boost.

If you had more boost initially than you have now, either the Dawes valve is leaking slightly or you’re loosing vacuum somewhere. Check the vacuum hoses, particularly the old ones for cracks or splits. Ideally, check the vacuum line with a vacuum gauge. You should have between 26 and 30”Hg at idle.

[Leighw85]

i have Diesel gas, so yeah i guess that hose could be that. I havnt really looked mate. I didnt install it.
Damn it. i got the pyro installed at the exhaust shop because i didnt want to take the heat shield of :(

Ok so tomorrow im disconnecting the pipe that goes over the engine from the solanoid. and im disconnecting the black pipe that connects to my dawes, and replacing it with the one i took off the sonanoid? is that correct? hahaha bloody confusing.

[Chaz]

i have Diesel gas, so yeah i guess that hose could be that. I havnt really looked mate. I didnt install it.
Damn it. i got the pyro installed at the exhaust shop because i didnt want to take the heat shield of :(

Ok so tomorrow im disconnecting the pipe that goes over the engine from the solanoid. and im disconnecting the black pipe that connects to my dawes, and replacing it with the one i took off the sonanoid? is that correct? hahaha bloody confusing.

Not too confusing, you got it right. Let us know how it goes.

[Leighw85]

Hey Chaz
i did what you said to do mate. It felt like i had alot more power, But i still had the same amount of boost. Only about 4-5psi sitting on about 2000rpm. where i used to get about 12-13psi.
I am unsure as to why im only getting 4-5psi boost all of a sudden. :(

Edit: I just put it back to how it was and took it for another drive. Now unless my foot is flat on the accelerator i get no boost at all.
DOING MY HEAD IN!!!!

[Chaz]

Hey Chaz
i did what you said to do mate. It felt like i had alot more power, But i still had the same amount of boost. Only about 4-5psi sitting on about 2000rpm. where i used to get about 12-13psi.
I am unsure as to why im only getting 4-5psi boost all of a sudden. :(

Edit: I just put it back to how it was and took it for another drive. Now unless my foot is flat on the accelerator i get no boost at all.
DOING MY HEAD IN!!!!

Ok, then you have a problem. Either you have a vacuum leak on the vacuum side, a pressure leak in the Dawes valve or a boost gauge leak.

I would start by checking the vacuum line at the hose coming across the engine. It should have 26 to 30”Hg at idle. If you don’t have a vacuum gauge, then go to a mechanic and get it checked. If that’s ok, then hook the vacuum line back up and check again by pulling the hose off the turbo and check the vacuum at that hose. It should be the same as you have at the vacuum line, but if its much lower, your Dawes valve is leaking. If that’s ok and the actuator arm is lifting all the way up, then chances are that you’re gauge is leaking and reading incorrectly low.

If you have good power and no boost reading on the gauge, I'd suspect the gauge. You'll know when you have no boost because there will be massive turbo lag.

[Leighw85]

I dont think it will be the gauge. The car seems to have alot less power than usual,which makes me think there is a mechanical issue. And can usually hear the trurbo winding when accelerating, i cant hear that now. And looking down at the Actuator when i start the car, i can not see anything move from a distance down there.

By vaccumm leak on either side you mean either side of the dawes valve?

[Chaz]

One side of the Dawes valve has pressure (boost) and the other side vacuum. The side with the 2 outlets should have vacuum.

If the actuator arm isn’t moving up when you start the car, then you definitely have a vacuum leak somewhere, but it could still be in the Dawes valve.

Open the Dawes valve and make sure there isn’t anything holding the ball off it’s seat. Don’t undo it where the red sealant is, just unscrew the knurled end and be careful that the spring doesn’t shoot off and get lost. Even a tiny bit of debris could hold the ball up and create a leak which will send any boost that you make into the vacuum line so it won’t be able to increase boost.

Blow it out and m,ake sure that it's clean, put it back and see if that solves the problem.
If that doesn't fix it, one of your hoses is broken, kinked or split.
Personally, I've never had this happen to me, but I have seen it happen a few times to others.

[Leighw85]

ok mate. Ill have to give that a go tomorrow after work. i have checked over the hoses and cant see any cracks,splits or anything. And couldnt hear any leaks when the car was idling.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/1651/turboadjustment.jpg

All that is visible with the heat shield still on isnt it. hahaha just to make sure im look at the right bit (im sure i am) :)
what bit needs to move? it looks like the actuator and the arm is the same part???
sorry if these are silly questions. But im learning heaps about my car the more stupid questions i ask

[Chaz]

The actuator and its rod need to lift the arm until the arm hits the arm stop screw. This needs to happen in order to create boost unless you are doing very high rpm.
Yes, that picture shows the heat shield on. You should be able to see the arm move as the engine is started.

There is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers......haha!

[Leighw85]

well i only get boost at the moment at very high rpm.
And i cant see anything move when i start the engine.

So to make sure im going to the right thing. I will pick up a vaccum gauge tomorrow. Might need it again down the track so ill buy one.
check the vaccum from the hose coming from under the intercooler, and goes to the solenoid. should be about 26-30 hg when idling.
if i get that reading, check the vaccume on the hose just after the dawes valve to see if its the same.
If its not is it definately the dawes valve? Or can it be the vaccum solenoid?

[Chaz]

Yes, you have the first part right except that when you check the hose after the dawes valve you’ll need to bypass the solenoid again. If you do it with the solenoid in the vacuum circuit, you’ll get a reduction in vacuum from the solenoid because the solenoid pulses from the ECU.

It’s unlikely to be the vacuum solenoid because you’re boost was low after you bypassed it. It’s a good idea to have a vacuum gauge for testing. They are not very expensive and can be a good diagnostic tool, particularly with vacuum control systems such as this.

[Leighw85]

ok thanks mate.
so i do what i did today with the test you asked me to try. and then check the other end of the dawes valve? so no hose runs through the vaccum selenoid?

[Chaz]

ok thanks mate.
so i do what i did today with the test you asked me to try. and then check the other end of the dawes valve? so no hose runs through the vaccum selenoid?

Correct. Doing this way will eliminate the solenoid as a cause. If you have good vacuum at the vacuum supply pump and the Dawes valve when vacuum is connected to it, then the issue must be the solenoid. I suspect though, that you’ll have vacuum at the vacuum pump pipe, but not with the Dawes connected, so the leak will be in the Dawes valve.

[Leighw85]

mate i pulled of the line that goes over the engine and i got nothing. It is the one that goes through the black cylinder isnt it? then from there it goes to the solenoid.
what the???

[Chaz]

mate i pulled of the line that goes over the engine and i got nothing. It is the one that goes through the black cylinder isnt it? then from there it goes to the solenoid.
what the???

Ok, then your car is a GUII with a vacuum canister. Did you check for vacuum on the other side of the canister? The canisters are known to split. I have removed and bypassed a couple with good results, but you should then have vacuum on the tube to the canister and from the vacuum pump.
If you have vacuum coming from the pump, then just bypass the canister and remove it if you like. You don’t need it and even Nissan removed them on the GUIII. My car doesn’t have one.

[Leighw85]

Yeah it's a GUII.
No air going from whatever it is under the intercooler (vacuum pump??) to the canister!!!
It shoal have vacuum straight away yeah? Or should I leave it for a while?

[Leighw85]

This pipe yeah?

[Chaz]

Yeah it's a GUII.
No air going from whatever it is under the intercooler (vacuum pump??) to the canister!!!
It shoal have vacuum straight away yeah? Or should I leave it for a while?
Yes, you should have vacuum instantly after starting the engine. If you have no vacuum at that pipe that passes over the engine, the pipe is either damaged or where it connects to the steel pipe it may have come off. You should be able to see this just in front of the intercooler where the rubber tube connects to a steel pipe that runs down to the vacuum pump.
If your vacuum pump wasn’t working, you would have no brakes and a very heavy clutch.
Getting there…..slowly!

[Leighw85]

I'm guessing this is the issue???
How hard is it to get the intercooler of to fix it.
That hose has to go on that pipe where it has cracked of???

[Chaz]

I'm guessing this is the issue???
How hard is it to get the intercooler of to fix it.
That hose has to go on that pipe where it has cracked of???

Yep, thats it!

Get yourself some new rubber tube and replace the whole length. Removing the cooler is easy enough. Just undo the big hose clamps at the cooler, unplug the MAP sensor and undo the 4 bolts holding it down.

Unfortunately this is a bad design. It would be better if the steel tube was bent over toward the turbo rather than having a sharp bend at the connection, but you may still be able to replace the hose with a pair of long nose pliers.

Good luck,
Chaz

[Leighw85]

Hey mate.
All fixed :) so stoked hey. managed to get the old hose back on tonight without taking the intercooler of.
I will replace all the hoses this weekend as all of them look a little dodgy.

I am getting a few more boost spikes than i was before when i just took it for a little drive. Just short sharp spurts up to about 15psi.
Im not sure if thats because i removed and cleaned the Dawes valve, and now it needs resetting. Any ideas?

Needle valve next on the list for sure

Mate i cant thank you enough for all you help.
Legend :)

[Chaz]

No problem Leigh,

Boost spikes are normal, but I wouldn’t worry about 15psi. It may be better if you set the Dawes valve to run at 14 – 15psi, even if it spikes to 17. Still much better that not having a Dawes with spikes above 20psi.

Still much better with the needle valve fitted because you’ll be able to slow down and reduce the spike. You’ll be an expert boost control tuner before you know it.

Cheers,

[Leighw85]

OK mate no worries, ill get my Dawes set up to about 14-15psi
What should my boost gauge roughly sit at when im doing 100km/h down the highway sitting on 2000rpm. Im getting about 11-12 psi. Is that to high?

Oh and another one of those questions. Is this my MAF sensor??? i got some contact cleaner. How do i clean it? And how often?
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/5104/imagenpr.jpg

[boots]

That is your boost sensor . the maf sensor is in the air intake just near the air filter housing . two torque screw head screws holding it in place.
research the thread on this forum , all the info is there and photos to guide you .

[boots]

engine and drivetrain section of the forum - checking and cleaning maf sensor by YNOT .

[Chaz]

OK mate no worries, ill get my Dawes set up to about 14-15psi
What should my boost gauge roughly sit at when im doing 100km/h down the highway sitting on 2000rpm. Im getting about 11-12 psi. Is that to high?


Leigh,

Your car must be an auto. I’m constantly sitting on 14psi at 100km/h and 2000rpm with mine. If I accelerate a bit it hits 15psi, but won’t go past that. Around town, I rarely pass 10psi, but that’s because I have 2 Dawes valves fitted.

15psi max isn’t too high at all. In fact it’s probably lower than it needs to be, but being constantly there, you’ll find you’re EGT’s run lower. The factory boost often goes into the low 20’s, but fluctuates a lot and temps constantly rise and fall.

The main reason that I recommend 15psi is that some cars will go into limp mode if they go above that below 3000rpm for more than a few seconds, particularly with a cold engine.

[Leighw85]

cheers Chaz. ill definately set it up to 15psi then :)

Before i buy my Needle valve, i have a question. So the needle valve will give me boost when i go over 100km/h and over 2000rpm?
as soon as i hit 2100-2200rpm at the moment i get no boost at all. which makes the EGT's rise alot.
ideally i would like to sit my cruise control on 110km/h and not have to worry about the EGT's. But at the moment max is 100km/h before i lose boost

[Chaz]

cheers Chaz. ill definately set it up to 15psi then :)

Before i buy my Needle valve, i have a question. So the needle valve will give me boost when i go over 100km/h and over 2000rpm?
as soon as i hit 2100-2200rpm at the moment i get no boost at all. which makes the EGT's rise alot.
ideally i would like to sit my cruise control on 110km/h and not have to worry about the EGT's. But at the moment max is 100km/h before i lose boost

Leigh,

No, the needle valve won’t give you boost when you go over 100km/h and over 2000rpm, but it will allow you to control your spool rate so that you can bypass the ECU boost control solenoid, which will give you constant boost when you go over 100km/h, without dropping off when the ECU wants to increase EGR.

Now that you have fixed the broken hose issue that you had, try to do what I suggested previously and run the hose that was broken straight into the top of the Dawes valve. If you do it, just be careful not to accelerate too aggressively because your spoolup will be very fast, but then drive up to 100km/h and you should have 15psi all the time and your EGT’s will be much lower.

[Leighw85]

ok mate, i will give that a go tomorrow afternoon.
sweet. Its frustrating not being able to do more than 100km/h without the EGT's going up near 500 degrees.
So the results i will get from doing that test, will pretty much be what will happen once a needle valve is installed?
apart from reducing the spool rate.

[Chaz]

ok mate, i will give that a go tomorrow afternoon.
sweet. Its frustrating not being able to do more than 100km/h without the EGT's going up near 500 degrees.
So the results i will get from doing that test, will pretty much be what will happen once a needle valve is installed?
apart from reducing the spool rate.
Yes, that is correct. If you can maintain at least 14psi at highway speeds, you're EGT's should be between 350 and 400c unless you're climbing some long hills.

[Leighw85]

Hey mate, did the test and it worked great! Had about 14-15psi all the time when up to or over 100km/h.
Lower EGT aswell which can only be good.

Correct me if I'm wrong please but I remember reading somewhere i shouldn't have any more than 10psi at 2000rpm? Now with y Dawes valve set to 15psi. I get no boost over 2100rpm bit 15psi at 2000rpm

[Chaz]

Hey mate, did the test and it worked great! Had about 14-15psi all the time when up to or over 100km/h.
Lower EGT aswell which can only be good.

Correct me if I'm wrong please but I remember reading somewhere i shouldn't have any more than 10psi at 2000rpm? Now with y Dawes valve set to 15psi. I get no boost over 2100rpm bit 15psi at 2000rpm

Ok, that doesn’t make sense. If you have 15psi at 2000rpm, you should still have it at 2100rpm.

When you fit the needle valve, you’ll be able to adjust the spool rate down to give you 6psi at 1500rpm and 10psi at 2000rpm, which is the ideal spool rate. Without the needle valve you won’t be able to do this, so this is why it’s best to fit the needle valve.

A spool rate that’s too aggressive can shorten turbo life over the long term and induce turbo surge in extreme cases. 6psi at 1500rpm and 10psi at 2000rpm are conservative and safe levels for good turbo life while retaining smooth operation and good performance.

Once you get above 2000rpm, it should be safe to go to maximum boost, even as low as 2100rpm, but ideally you should be able to get a more linear boost curve up to 16psi at 3600rpm, which is where maximum power is produced.

[Leighw85]

Yeah with the car set up normally (not the test you got me to do) that's where my boost goes right down. Between 2000-2100rpm i get the max boost. Then it drops down to about 6-7psi and the EGT's get to about 500 degrees.

So it's not ideal to have 15psi at 2000rpm? Which is what my dawes valve is set to now? Looking on your site, it suggest 10psi at 2000rpm. Which is where i had it set.

Aaaaargh so much to ask and learn hahaha

[Chaz]

I would leave the Dawes set to 15psi under load if you don’t get limp mode, regardless of revs because your car is an auto and under load the converter will always flair to just above 2000rpm. After you fit the needle valve, you’ll be able to tune the lower rpm boost down slightly so that you get closer to 10 or 12 psi at 2000rpm and it should take a bit more right foot to get it up to 15, but it shouldn’t pass 15psi below 3000rpm. Above 3000rpm, it may climb up a little more.

In my case, I can get it up to 18psi at 4000rpm, but really only go there on the dyno. Occasionally I have been up to around 3500rpm and it reaches 16psi without any limp mode problems. This is close to what you should be aiming for.

[Leighw85]

So leave it set to the 12-14psi I get at 2000-2200 rpm for now. And get my needle valve and sort it out then?

[Chaz]

So leave it set to the 12-14psi I get at 2000-2200 rpm for now. And get my needle valve and sort it out then?

Yep, that’s the way to go. Just remember to be a little bit gentle on the throttle until you get the needle valve in so you don’t get any big spikes or limp mode problems and it should be good.

[Leighw85]

Ok picking up my needle valve this afternoon :)
I've seen your diagram on your site mate, is that what I need to do?

Which hoses from the ecu need connecting up to it, and what ones blocked of?

Also does the needle valve go on a certain way around?

[Chaz]

Ok picking up my needle valve this afternoon :)
I've seen your diagram on your site mate, is that what I need to do?

Which hoses from the ecu need connecting up to it, and what ones blocked of?

Also does the needle valve go on a certain way around?

When you install the needle valve, you will also need the small tee piece that came with the Dawes valve. The easiest way is to just take all 3 hoses off the solenoid.

Pull off the long one that went from the turbo to the solenoid, remove the small green damper and fit the hose to the air filter resonator. Put the needle valve on the other end of that hose. The air filter resonator is the other end of the short hose that’s on the solenoid and it shouldn’t matter which way around the needle valve goes.

Then fit the small green damper to the hose that comes from the vacuum pump (the one that you repaired recently) and connect the other side of the damper to the vacuum side of the Dawes valve. Tee off that to the turbo actuator and also the other side of the needle valve and it’s done.

When it's done, there should be no hoses left on the solenoid. Blocking the solenoid ports is optional. I do it just to stop debris getting into the solenoid. but it will all work ok without blocking them.

[Chaz]

Ok picking up my needle valve this afternoon :)
I've seen your diagram on your site mate, is that what I need to do?

Which hoses from the ecu need connecting up to it, and what ones blocked of?

Also does the needle valve go on a certain way around?
When you install the needle valve, you will also need the small tee piece that came with the Dawes valve. The easiest way is to just take all 3 hoses off the solenoid.

Pull off the long one that went from the turbo to the solenoid, remove the small green damper and fit the hose to the air filter resonator. Put the needle valve on the other end of that hose. The air filter resonator is the other end of the short hose that’s on the solenoid and it shouldn’t matter which way around the needle valve goes.

Then fit the small green damper to the hose that comes from the vacuum pump (the one that you repaired recently) and connect the other side of the damper to the vacuum side of the Dawes valve. Tee off that to the turbo actuator and also the other side of the needle valve and it’s done.

When it’s done, there should be no hoses left on the solenoid. Blocking the solenoid ports is optional. I do it just to stop any debris from getting into the solenoid, but it will all work ok without blocking the solenoid ports.

[Leighw85]

Ok just to clear things up before we go further lol The air filter resinator is near the Solenoid yes? and the VNT is the turbo?
because there is this picture i have come across.

patrol4x4.com/forum/members/geeyoutoo-46168/albums/dawes-setup-dual-solenoid/4025-original-single-dawes-schematic.jpg

Is this what i need to do exactly?

NOTE: DIRECT LINKS HAVE BEEN REMOVED DUE TO PATROL4X4's VIRUS PROBLEMS, ENTERING THE ABOVE LINK INTO YOUR BROWSER YOU DO AT YOUR OWN RISK

KIND REGARDS

FORUM MANAGEMENT

[Chaz]

Ok just to clear things up before we go further lol The air filter resinator is near the Solenoid yes? and the VNT is the turbo?
because there is this picture i have come across.

Is this what i need to do exactly?

Yes, that is all correct.

[Leighw85]

But on the boost side of the dawes valve for me at the moment i have my Diesel/Gas hose and a hose from the Boost Inlet. Because my Boost gauge is not apart of my dawes valve hoses, its seperate
What should i do with them mate?
just want to get it right, so i best make sure.

[Chaz]

But on the boost side of the dawes valve for me at the moment i have my Diesel/Gas hose and a hose from the Boost Inlet. Because my Boost gauge is not apart of my dawes valve hoses, its seperate
What should i do with them mate?
just want to get it right, so i best make sure.
Leave them as they are. It doesn’t matter where you take the boost signal from for the gauge or the Dawes valve for that matter. Boost pressure should be almost the same through the whole inlet system after the turbo.

[Leighw85]

Ok sweet i think i have got it sorted :) ill do it tomorrow morning and let you know how i go.

in the pic the VNT is the turbo and the resonator fitting is just near the solanoid?

cheers mate, bloody appreciate it hey

[Leighw85]

Ok installed to the picture. Set the needle so the arm drops then lifted back up to the screw. Getting no boost now unless I have my foot flat and then OT will only get to 5psi :(

EDIT: ok so it did matter what wat around the needle valve went, wierd huh!

So now im getting my boost again, do i adjust my boost to the levels you recommend (e.g 2000 rpm @ 10psi) with the dawes or needle valve?

[Chaz]

Ok installed to the picture. Set the needle so the arm drops then lifted back up to the screw. Getting no boost now unless I have my foot flat and then OT will only get to 5psi :(

EDIT: ok so it did matter what wat around the needle valve went, wierd huh!

So now im getting my boost again, do i adjust my boost to the levels you recommend (e.g 2000 rpm @ 10psi) with the dawes or needle valve?
You should adjust the needle valve as you have, at idle so the arm just touches the stop screw. That should put it very close to the mark. Then just adjust the Dawes valve to 15psi with about ½ throttle. Then drive it for a while and you should see the boost hover around 10psi at 2000rpm while cruising with a fairly light throttle. In your case it’s unlikely that you can drive much below those revs, but if you accelerate harder the boost should shoot up to 15psi and stay there until you back off. If it does that, it should be good.

Strange that your needle valve is directional. I thought only a check valve would be directional. Live and learn……………..

[Leighw85]

So once I have set the arm to just touch the screw, that means the spool rate has been sorted? So it dosnt run fast like it did when I do that test?

Well the max boost I can get out of my Dawes now is 15psi at any speed (have only gone for 1 drive) how it is set. I thought if I changed the Dawes valve it would make boost higher at 2000rpm?

[Chaz]

So once I have set the arm to just touch the screw, that means the spool rate has been sorted? So it dosnt run fast like it did when I do that test?

Well the max boost I can get out of my Dawes now is 15psi at any speed (have only gone for 1 drive) how it is set. I thought if I changed the Dawes valve it would make boost higher at 2000rpm?

No, adjusting the Dawes will only determine how high boost can go. Adjusting the needle valve will determine how quickly (or early) it gets there.

So the spool rate is adjusted with the needle valve, but if opening the needle valve still results in a very fast spool rate or big boost spike, you then adjust the VNT actuator arm stop screw. Usually turning it down about ½ a turn does the trick, but that shouldn’t be necessary unless you have limp mode issues.

[Leighw85]

Adjusted my Needle Valve so i get about 10psi @ 2000rpm with the foot down a little bit
Do i leave my Dawes @ 15psi? because if its set to 15psi i cant get to the 18psi @ 4000rpm can i. Which is suggested on your write up.

[Chaz]

Yes, it should still go to 18 at full throttle unless your transmission can't provide the engine load. Leave the Dawes set at 15psi as recommended with part throttle and some load.

What happens is that the Dawes valve will let some boost pressure into the vacuum side to control and maintain a 15psi limit up to a point. Then at higher rpm (usually above 3500rpm) the exhaust gas velocity will continue to increase the turbine speed even though the Dawes valve will hold the turbo actuator arm down and boost will rise above the set limit. You should see it increase to around 16psi at 3600rpm and go up to 18psi at 4000rpm, but this will only happen at full throttle. If yours doesn’t get up to 18psi, I wouldn’t worry about it because it’s only due to the fact that your car is an auto and the engine isn’t seeing enough load. A manual transmission car or an auto with manual converter lock will do it every time.

We set it up this way because during dyno testing, we didn’t make any more power above 16psi and the ZD30 makes its maximum power at 3600rpm. Running 18psi at 4000rpm is a very safe and conservative limit for an engine with a 17:1 compression ratio, so this all works out well for engine longevity and performance. The fact that Nissan set up the system to run much higher boost, is purely for improved emissions.

[Leighw85]

Ok so what do you mean by load?
When im taking of from lights or so on, I get higher boost that when cruising. Sometimes it rises about the 10psi @ 2000rpm.
but when cruising @ 2000rpm for example ill get about 6-7psi at times.

Ok leaving my Dawes set at 15psi then, i have not seen it exceed that except for a small spike up to about 17psi for a second or so.

[Chaz]

Ok so what do you mean by load?
When im taking of from lights or so on, I get higher boost that when cruising. Sometimes it rises about the 10psi @ 2000rpm.
but when cruising @ 2000rpm for example ill get about 6-7psi at times.

Ok leaving my Dawes set at 15psi then, i have not seen it exceed that except for a small spike up to about 17psi for a second or so.
Load is when the engine is working, like when you take off. When you cruise, there isn’t much load, hence lower boost and lower EGT’s. When the engine is under load, eg taking off, accelerating up hill or just a heavy throttle, you should have your 15psi. If you back off the throttle, your boost should drop down to almost nothing.

Your EGT’s will only rise to high levels if the load is high enough, so that’s where you want to make good boost to keep the EGT’s down. When you cruise and boost is down, there isn’t much load so EGT’s and fuel consumption drops.

[Leighw85]

So everything i have said is ok and not abnormal?

[Chaz]

So everything i have said is ok and not abnormal?

Yep, it sounds like you have done it right.
I would just drive it for a while and see how it goes. If you have any problems, you may need to do some fine tuning, but otherwise keep an eye on your EGT’s and enjoy. You shouldn't need to watch the boost closely unless your EGT's start to run abnormally high.

[Leighw85]

your a legend mate.
All your help has been awesome :)
cheers

[Arwon]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/11/12.jpg


Sent from my iPhone. Please excuse the spelling.

[Chaz]

your a legend mate.
All your help has been awesome :)
cheers
My pleasure.

Hopefully this will help others contemplating these mods or to understand how and why it’s done also.

Cheers,