Under body rust prevention

[macca86]

Hi all we have a working bee coming up and I want to rust proof our rig.
I would love electric prevention but this isn't on the cards just yet and would like to just spray her old school for now.
I was after help as to what products to use and what prep work is needed and costs involved.
As a future electronic prevention is on the cards what are the best systems and prices for such a thing too?
Thanks for all the help and direction
Steve and Jenni

[Bigrig]

Ummm ... about 5 litres of killrust!! lol

There are "rubberized" paints out there mate, but long and short of it is the clean is just as important (chemical etch) to get rid of not only dirt, but existing corrosion of any form ... there is a mob at Railway Parade in Thornlands that quoted me $235 for the proper job ... personally, for the effort, I'd be getting that done so at least I knew I had some sort of guarantee of quality and protection - mate had his BT50 done there, and it's ducks nuts!

Haven't forgotten the spit blokes number either - just can't find it!! I will though.

[Silver]

some people use Tectyl

[HippoNZ]

yes clean first! that was my mistake lol don't let your lazyness (in this case mine) get the better of you rofl

[macca86]

cheers guys I'll price someone else doing it vs me doing it and I'll go to luxury paints and ask what they think

[MudRunnerTD]

Fish Oil in a spray can from Super Cheap!! Its a winner.

Clean the undercarriage if you can and then spray the whole thing with fish oil. It will soak through a bit and is a physical barrier and does soak through any rust there and into steel.

Highly recommend it

http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=&item_number=356&page_num=6

http://www.septone.com.au/prod_img/AUFO4.jpg


Cheers

[macca86]

Fish Oil in a spray can from Super Cheap!! Its a winner.

Clean the undercarriage if you can and then spray the whole thing with fish oil. It will soak through a bit and is a physical barrier and does soak through any rust there and into steel.

Highly recommend it

http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=&item_number=356&page_num=6

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/


Cheers

thanks mate I was thinking thishttp://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=11&item_number=370&page_num=1 would be good too.
I shall use this product too http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=11&item_number=363&page_num=1
Thanks for the help

[Airstrike]

There is a guy at geebung they do an underbody sand blast and then they rust proof under the body the engine bay and the insides of the doors for about $450. Thats what I will be doing once I have the alarm done.

[MudRunnerTD]

thanks mate I was thinking thishttp://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=11&item_number=370&page_num=1 would be good too.
I shall use this product too http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=11&item_number=363&page_num=1
Thanks for the help

Hey macca,

hmmmmm? well both products that you have listed there are basically a paint on system. You have a Rust converter (assuming you have a rust problem already?) and an underbody paint barrier for absolute protection.

Both products assume you can sand blast your undercarriage and it is spotlessly clean, if not then kinda pointless, the Rust converter is a paint prep product to be used before the paint you listed.

The Fish Oil on the other hand can be applied by you out of a spray bottle laying on your back next to your car parked on gravel or the front lawn. The Fish Oil will penetrate into any slight mud that might be there. It will also penetrate into any Rust that may be there, it wont convert it but will stop it processing and continuing to get worse. It would be a once a year treatment and will certainly get you out of trouble until you go the electronic system. I would still then use Fish Oil in conjunction with your electronic system.

If you invest in a Paint on system for your undercarriage then you are into the $$ that is being quoted above and you may as well go an electronic system for that cash. If you dont really have a rust problem the go the fish oil. You can take the inside door trims off and spray it into the door skins too. Its a winner and some thing you can do at home.

My 2c

[macca86]

great yeah I do not have a rust problem just looking at protecting her till such times as we can get electronic protection as we hit the beach a lot of the time. So fish oil it is. Thanks everyone for your help. I always spend a good 1/2 to 1 hr with the gernie on the undercarriage after such a trip even after bush work. Will the fish oil do any damage to electrical components or finished paint or do I need to tape up areas that it could damage?

[Peacemaker]

Lanolin Liquid Protectant

http://www.erps.com.au/lanolin-products.html

spray it in and it will creep in every nook and cranny to protect it. I do it about every 3 years. Just water blast outside surfaces to remove dirt and salts and spray it on,in and around and it wont damage any thing. The only draw back to using it is you will notice a lot of KIWI's rubbing up against your truck.:tease::eck05:

[Mrowka]

At an early stage of its life, my 1994 GQ was sprayed with that asphalt-like underbody coating.

It has survived 16 Russian and Ukrainian winters so far.

[MudRunnerTD]

Nup, go for it mate. perfect time to do it is after a big beach trip when teh underside is freshly sand blasted. then go for it its a winner.

[macca86]

My fiance is a kiwi! She already loves me if I do that how am I to go on boys weekends? (she hates the patrol)

[shaunh]

de oderised or not that sh*t still stinks haha, ive previously just used body deadener in a areosol can, works as rust prevention and quietens everything down a bit

[ozzyboy]

ty 4 the useful info.
bought a gq mainly for beach fishing and was wondering best options.will give it a spray of fish oil; next weekend :)

[hutchy84]

Does anyone know where you can get the underside sandblasted and painted in perth

[gqpew]

Does anyone know where you can get the underside sandblasted and painted in perth

I'd also be interested in this. It'd be great if someone can post recommendations.

[Silver]

there is a fair bit of controversy about the usefulness of the electronic rust preventers.

The thing I notice that kills GQs is rust in the three layers of metal that make up the join of roof to body/gutter. I'd be paying a lot of attention to that area in any rust proofing effort.

You can blow fish oil and tectyl on with a kero gun, if you have a compressor. the no22le allows the spray to be directed into more nooks and crannies than a spray gun. get a cheap tarp, spread it out, park on top, jack up if necessary, and of course place on axle stands, and go to town. The tarp stops grass and gravel sticking to you :-)

Remove the screws that hold the trim at the bottom of the doors, and give the inside of the sills a squirt, likewise the doors, making sure the windows are up :-) Make sure the drains in the doors and sills are working. With a kero gun squirting fish oil into a cavity at one end of the old MQ wagon, it was ama2ing to see where else a fine mist of fish oil would appear.

If the vehicle has been rustproofed in the past you might find 16mm +- holes already drilled, hidden behind trim, and perhaps covered with metalic tape that allow access to more cavities.

I asked a bloke who used to work for a rustproofing mob what oil he would use, if going for an oil rather than a wax like Tectyl. He reckoned peanut oil was the go... but didn't really explain why.

[Robo]

The problem with electronic protection is.

It does not protect against chemical corrosion at all, not 1 little bit.

It relies on water for the protective electrons to travel across the surface of panels, so if the panel is dry then, well you guessed it, nothing.

You drive threw a creek or on beach and the area that gets wet, is being protected.
Once dry again protection ceases.

Any chemicals left behind by water can and do attack your precious toy.

So unless you own a submarine !!.
and then you'd be using a knoble metal in conjunction with electronic protection, if possible to use both.

There is plenty of research that has already been done on net for all to see.

I know this isn't related but I'll throw it in.

Ever wondered why the bypass fitting on your expensive engine are only zinc plated metal?.
And not a nice anti corrosive metal like brass.

Answer is, it is there to act as a knoble metal.
"A sacrificial anode if ya like".
It is cheaper and easier to replace than that expensive manifold or cover it's screwed into.
yes they are a pain if they corrode.
but it is intentionally engineered that way.
say $20 fitting ver $400 die-cast piece. you do the math.

cheers

[megatexture]

Lanolin Liquid Protectant

http://www.erps.com.au/lanolin-products.html

spray it in and it will creep in every nook and cranny to protect it. I do it about every 3 years. Just water blast outside surfaces to remove dirt and salts and spray it on,in and around and it wont damage any thing. The only draw back to using it is you will notice a lot of KIWI's rubbing up against your truck.:tease::eck05:


yep thats what i use and reaply every time i wash under the car. so ive put it on once so far seems to go along way and dont stink like fish oil!

[Boagie]

Yeah i use lanolin on the doors inside,and fish oil on all the chassis areas---dont forget--pull ya sun visors out an spray through the hole it came out of.....gets in around top of windscreen and down front pillars!!!!!

[04OFF]

The problem with electronic protection is.

It does not protect against chemical corrosion at all, not 1 little bit.

It relies on water for the protective electrons to travel across the surface of panels, so if the panel is dry then, well you guessed it, nothing.

You drive threw a creek or on beach and the area that gets wet, is being protected.
Once dry again protection ceases.

Any chemicals left behind by water can and do attack your precious toy.

So unless you own a submarine !!.
and then you'd be using a knoble metal in conjunction with electronic protection, if possible to use both.

There is plenty of research that has already been done on net for all to see.

I know this isn't related but I'll throw it in.

Ever wondered why the bypass fitting on your expensive engine are only zinc plated metal?.
And not a nice anti corrosive metal like brass.

Answer is, it is there to act as a knoble metal.
"A sacrificial anode if ya like".
It is cheaper and easier to replace than that expensive manifold or cover it's screwed into.
yes they are a pain if they corrode.
but it is intentionally engineered that way.
say $20 fitting ver $400 die-cast piece. you do the math.

cheers





X2, i think a lot of people put too much faith in electronic rust proof systems, i wish they had seen the amount of cars ive come across with electronic systems and rust (my own car included), read the fine print on the warranty, most dont actually cover "anything" other than what the car manufacturer already covers anyway, and think about it, whats the point if they dont protect/cover any exposed metal ???

Some will make you "pay" for yearly inspections to pretend your covered.


I can sell you a little box with a LED flashing light, fit to any brand new car, and ill "warrant" you will not get perforated rust ,while the car is still covered under manufacture new car warranty against rust (on most this is 5-10 years anyway) ............what a SCAM

Go with what the others said :thumbup:

[White Elephant]

I'd also be interested in this. It'd be great if someone can post recommendations.

+1 I want to do this to my old bus as well. Might do some research and if I find anything I'll post it.

[GQUTERUS]

Great thread and some good ideas. I have a electronic rust system that i haven't installed yet. Im SUPER paranoid about rust so i'm going to invest in some fish oil and use the garden sprayer to apply it.

[Crankshaft]

My MK project has a few rather nasty rust spots and I am looking to both repair them and prevent re-occurrence, It looks like it was rust treated early in its life and there is rust in just a few spots where the treatment has broken down
I am looking for some thoughts on cavity wax versus fish oil.
I have been told that cavity wax tends to flow further into joints than fish oil but I cant find much info on cavity wax.

I have now looked at electronic protection and very much share Robo's misgivings. The theory of electrical protection holds true if you can achieve a difference in potential and if the metals are immersed in an electrically continuous electrolyte. while the pads are attached to the body you have no difference in potential and I don’t aim to keep the whole car in an electrolyte. I also have a concern as to what may happen to the 400+volts if a contact pad came loose while I was having minor disaster in a river. 400volts in that sort of electrolyte WILL be fatal to both you and the little fishies.

Back to topic - Fish oil or cavity wax??
Alan