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YNOT
14th August 2010, 08:21 AM
This pic shows the position of the Mass Air Flow sensor (on my ZD30) on the top of the air filter housing. Shown here with the wiring cover removed.
http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/P1000895Small.jpg


The testing procedure is done at the back of the plug with suitable probes to interrogate the wiring. The main test is for battery voltage at terminal 4 and supply voltage (5volts) at terminal 2 (white wire). Then you should have 1.6 – 2.0 volts at the red wire of terminal 1 with the engine idling. Voltage will increase as engine revs increase.


To remove the sensor you will need a T20 torx bit. After removing the two retaining screws, gently twist the sensor and remove from housing.
To clean the MAF sensor you will need a suitable cleaner, I got CRC MAF cleaner from Repco, I had to ask for it, it wasn't on display.
Do not touch any of the surfaces of the sensor, let the cleaning spray do the work. If you work over a white cloth, you can see the color of the solvent coming off, keep going untill the solvent comes off clean.


This pic shows the sensor cleaner, the sensor removed from the housing, and the torx bit used to remove it.
http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/P1000894Small.jpg


If you do need to replace the MAF sensor, these are the part numbers to use. These numbers are just for the sensor shown in the photo above. This is significantly cheaper than replacing the WHOLE air flow meter, housing and all.
ZD 30 Series 1-3 22680AD21A (previously 22680AD210 which was before that 22680 AD201)

ZD30 Series 4 22680 7S000

Tony

YNOT
14th August 2010, 08:23 AM
ZD30 Prior series 4
there should be 4 wires at your MAF they'll be Red, White, Black and White terminal 1,2,3 and 4 respectively,
With the car idling, warmed up to normal operating temp, vehicle in nuetral and the AC off test the following;
The 1 (R) should be reading between 1.6 and 2 volts
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
With the car stopped but the ignition 'on' disconnect the MAF plug and test
The 2 (w) should be reading approx 5v
The 4 (W) should be reading the battery voltage.
If they read these voltages your MAF is fuctioning correctly.

ZD30 Series 4
there should be a 6 pin connector Nothing, White, Black, Red, White and Black, terminal 1,2,3,4,5,&6
With the car idling, warmed up to normal operating temp AC off, in neutral no load test the following
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
The 4 (R) should be reading between 1.5 to 1.9v at idle increasing to 4.0v when revving through to 4000rpm
With the car stopped but the ignition 'on' disconnect the MAF plug and test
The 2 (W) should be reading the battery voltage
If they read these you MAF is fuctioning

TB45
There should be a Black/Red wire, Black and White wire Term 2,3 &4
With the car idling, warmed up in nuetral and ac off there should be the following
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
The 4 (W) should be reading 1.3 to 1.8v, and with the engine at 2500rpm should be 2.1 to 2.5v
With the car of disconnect the MAF plug turn the ignition on and test
The 2 (B/R) should be reading the battery voltage

TB48
There should be a White/Green, Yellow, Black/White and Black/Red Term 1,2,3 & 4
With the car idling, warmed up, in nuetral and the AC off there should be the following
The 1 (W/G) should be reading 1.1 to 1.5v, and at 2500rpm 1.7 to 2.4v
The 3 (B/W) should be reading 0v

Turn the car off and disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
The 2 (Y) should be reading approx 5v
The 4 (B/R) should be reading the battery voltage

RD28
There should be White, Black and Red Term 1,2 &3
With the car idling warmed up in nuetral with the AC off there should be the following
The 2 (B) Should be reading 0v
The 3 (R) should be reading 1.6 to 2.0v

Withe the car off disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
The 1 (W) should be the battery voltage

If they dont read the battery voltage of the approx 5v at those respective termianls there is most likely a short in the system so check the connectors harnesses and plugs if they don't read the voltages at idle then there is most likely a fault with the MAF.

Tony

patch697
14th August 2010, 10:40 AM
Top post Tony, This will save some members a lot of dosh as now thay can DIY it.

Cheers
Paul

Pete's GU3
17th August 2010, 08:16 PM
Thought i would give you some feedback Tony , i followed your instructions re the maf sensor , took it out , bought a can of that cleaner from repco cost me $25. sprayed the sensor all over thoroughly , noticed it all the black stuff dripping off , it wasn't too bad to start off with anyway , put it all back together again. Now i will see if i get any power loss after about an hours driving that i have experienced , hopefully it will be ok , but at this stage it still the same as before i cleaned it which is pretty good . My ZD30 has got very good take off , has no lag !!!!

YNOT
17th August 2010, 08:46 PM
Thanks for the feedback Pete.
My ZD30 still has a problem going into limp mode under load, lift off the accelerator then power on again and it comes good for a while. I'll be gettig a new MAF sensor soon which should fix it.
One thing I will have to add to my original post, is to disconnect the battery after cleaning the sensor, to reset the computer. You might want to try that.

Tony

Pete's GU3
21st August 2010, 04:29 PM
Thanks for the feedback Pete.
My ZD30 still has a problem going into limp mode under load, lift off the accelerator then power on again and it comes good for a while. I'll be gettig a new MAF sensor soon which should fix it.
One thing I will have to add to my original post, is to disconnect the battery after cleaning the sensor, to reset the computer. You might want to try that.

Tony

Hi Tony
Yeah funny thing that sudden loss of power , you reckon it's a dodgy maff sensor ??..Its a bit scary when it happens blows a bit of smoke then comes good all of sudden .!!!!!! Im happy to get a new sensor if that is the problem , at least i can be confident of doing a trip and not have to limp home if it gets any worse ...!!!!

YNOT
21st August 2010, 04:57 PM
I need to do a bit more research but I'm confident that's what it is. Initially I thought it was getting too much boost causing it to go into limp mode, but I reduced the boost and it still does it.
Mine doesn't blow any smoke when it loses power.

Tony

RustyNails
25th August 2010, 03:40 PM
Thanks for the post Tony, great to get such detailed advice.

Paul

TOECUTTER
30th September 2010, 11:13 AM
Thanks for the feedback Pete.
My ZD30 still has a problem going into limp mode under load, lift off the accelerator then power on again and it comes good for a while. I'll be gettig a new MAF sensor soon which should fix it.
One thing I will have to add to my original post, is to disconnect the battery after cleaning the sensor, to reset the computer. You might want to try that.

Tony

Hey Tony,

Mate is Your vehicle loosing all acceleration then lift the pedal and then you have full acceleration again? It sounds to me like the Throttle Position Sensor. These things are also notorious for failing after a while. I made enquiries on replacing the sensor but was told by Nissan that the whole pedal has to be replaced and not just the sensor. At $500 a pop they can jam it. I tried to find a sensor on its own, with no luck (mind you I didn't try too hard). I have successfully cleaned mine and as a result works well again. I will post some details on another thread regarding this.

Cheers

TC

YNOT
30th September 2010, 04:04 PM
Thanks TC, I've just read your post/thread about cleaning the TPS.
I'll add that to the list of things to try when I get time. I've been in discussion with someone else on here who is also having the same problem. At this stage the next step for me is more adjustment of the dawes and needle valves to slow down the turbo spool up, another thing that can trigger limp mode.

Tony

AB
8th October 2010, 02:22 PM
Stuck this post, thanks Tony.

justrocho
1st December 2010, 06:12 PM
top job tony i need a computer in the shed save me post it stickers all over the wall lol cheers andrew dalby

raneydelrey
4th January 2011, 11:34 PM
HI Tony,

My Ride is now on the verge of the sluggish ride low power I know this thread do the trick but I am so scared to spray everything do you have a picture where I can see which area to spray onlY

YNOT
5th January 2011, 06:27 AM
Clean the area high lighted in this photo. You need to clean the inside bits as well but don't let anything touch in there except the cleaning spray. keep the spray tube out.

Tony

ashbee37
20th January 2011, 09:31 AM
Thanks for the feedback Pete.
My ZD30 still has a problem going into limp mode under load, lift off the accelerator then power on again and it comes good for a while. I'll be gettig a new MAF sensor soon which should fix it.
One thing I will have to add to my original post, is to disconnect the battery after cleaning the sensor, to reset the computer. You might want to try that.

Tony

hi Just wondering if the new maf sensor fixed this prob or not??

YNOT
20th January 2011, 11:09 AM
Welcome to the forum Ashbee. Drop by the introductions section and tell us a bit about yourself and your Patrol.

I rarely drive my Patrol and still have not done anything to fix the fault.

Tony

mcparto
6th February 2011, 12:48 PM
Hi all can any one tell me if l will have trouble with my motor after l blow up a 2000 ZD30 and have pu in a ZD30 2005 model . all parts and wires seemed to go together well until l went to conct the Maff sensor up the newer sensor out of the 05 is different to the old 00 model . what have l done lol

YNOT
6th February 2011, 01:16 PM
Welcome to the forum Mcparto, it's always nice to post an introduction before asking questions.

If you are still using the 2000 model engine computer then I would be using the correct MAF sensor for that year model, but buy a new sensor rather than reusing the old one.

Have you taken any steps to stop the new engine failing?

Tony

Pete's GU3
14th February 2011, 07:56 PM
cleaned out the maf sensor again and disconnected the battery, left it off for about and hour .....took a drive down to philip island about 2 hours there and 2 back ..gotta say no fault at all didnt miss a beat cruised really nice and having just changed the oil to.....................smooooooooooooooth

lachiek
1st March 2011, 11:50 AM
Hey Tony, excuse my ignorance on this but does my 1995 GQ RD28TD have a MAF sensor? I can't find it under the bonnet or in my Gregorys. I want to check/clean it before I block the EGR.

Thanks, Lachie

YNOT
1st March 2011, 12:14 PM
GQ diesels had mechanical injector pumps so no MAF sensor.

Tony

lachiek
1st March 2011, 12:21 PM
Great thanks Tony.

I'm not going mad and since I've just found out this plus the fact I already have a EGR shim I'm off to the mech to get the injectors done to hopefully stop the cloud of black smoke...

Cheers, Lachie

ergjan
1st March 2011, 09:55 PM
hi Just wondering if the new maf sensor fixed this prob or not??

Hey mate, I had the same problem with it going into limp mode under load, lift off the accelerator then power on again and it comes good for a while. For me it seemed no matter what rev's I was at, if it stayed over 11psi for more then say 10 seconds it went into limp mode.

Replaced the maf with a genuine nissan sensor and no more overboosting limp mode.

I've also blocked my egr, and put a dawes and needle valve on.

YNOT
1st March 2011, 10:08 PM
Thanks for the feedback ergjan.
Welcome to the forum, when you get a minute drop by the introductions page and tell us a bit about yourself and your Patrol.

Tony

Pete's GU3
13th March 2011, 06:53 PM
I just wanted to say that having done the maf sensor a couple of times using that spray, as demonstrated on this thread , i'm pleased to say that having done some day trips around the outskirts of Melb. recently and pushing the GU3 3lt td through the hills pretty hard , it did not let me down 1 bit , no loss of power at all , just spot on , actually put a smile on my face . now i have some confidence to go bush, DEEEEP bush .......!!!!

YNOT
13th March 2011, 06:57 PM
Good on ya Pete, we just need to get that sub tank sorted now.

Tony

nowoolies
13th March 2011, 07:04 PM
Tony
time for you to move over this way we want a good mechanic here
could be a change from chilli hot dogs lmao

Bob
19th March 2011, 04:07 PM
Tony How long would leave the Battery disconnected after cleaning the MAF

YNOT
19th March 2011, 04:09 PM
Half an hour should do it.

Tony

Bigrig
19th March 2011, 04:41 PM
Half an hour should do it.

Tony

Unless you're trying to clear error logs from the ECU - I left mine overnight to be sure when I had the coolant temp sensor problem, but I believe the manual states it can take up to 24 hours for a manual reset (battery disconnect) to clear all errors.

YNOT
19th March 2011, 04:51 PM
Unless you're trying to clear error logs from the ECU - I left mine overnight to be sure when I had the coolant temp sensor problem, but I believe the manual states it can take up to 24 hours for a manual reset (battery disconnect) to clear all errors.

Stored error codes take longer if you can clear them at all, resetting the adaptive stratergy memory (which is what Bob is trying to do in this case) does not take as long.

Tony

Bigrig
19th March 2011, 04:53 PM
Stored error codes take longer if you can clear them at all, resetting the adaptive stratergy memory (which is what Bob is trying to do in this case) does not take as long.

Tony

Bootiful - thanks mate, I didn't read above .. sorry.

Bob
20th March 2011, 10:49 AM
Just went out the Road to give mine a road test after cleaning MAF and on Petrol it went like the clappers whereas before it felt like it was starving for fuel when you gave it to her. Seems to run better on Gas also.

Bigrig
20th March 2011, 03:01 PM
Tank is having a rest in the garage with the battery disconnected after cleaning the MAF ... If that doesn't sort it, off to Repco I go to get a coolant temp sensor ... still baffled if it is that as to why two would go in the space of four months, but better that than possible alternatives!!! Fingers crossed!!

Bigrig
20th March 2011, 08:13 PM
Tank is having a rest in the garage with the battery disconnected after cleaning the MAF ... If that doesn't sort it, off to Repco I go to get a coolant temp sensor ... still baffled if it is that as to why two would go in the space of four months, but better that than possible alternatives!!! Fingers crossed!!

Tomorrow morning will be the final test after leaving it get dead cold overnight, but put the MAF back in, and reconnected the battery after about 3 hours (as I needed to go out) and it started first pop and purred like a kitten. Here's to hoping!!!

big_fletch
20th March 2011, 08:16 PM
Tomorrow morning will be the final test after leaving it get dead cold overnight, but put the MAF back in, and reconnected the battery after about 3 hours (as I needed to go out) and it started first pop and purred like a kitten. Here's to hoping!!!

I hope all is well in the morning mate, let us know how you go

Bigrig
20th March 2011, 08:17 PM
I hope all is well in the morning mate, let us know how you go

Me too boss!! Will do and thanks!

Bob
21st March 2011, 06:46 AM
Tomorrow morning will be the final test after leaving it get dead cold overnight, but put the MAF back in, and reconnected the battery after about 3 hours (as I needed to go out) and it started first pop and purred like a kitten. Here's to hoping!!!

I hope it works as well as it did for me

Bigrig
21st March 2011, 08:08 AM
Success!!! Well, I'll be a monkeys uncle. There was evidence of a bit of powdery dirt in there (smallest of specks) but obviously enough to cause issue ... started and idled like a dream ... I'm starting to think the MAF is something that should be taken out and cleaned after every reasonably muddy or dusty trip, and for the effort it takes, I think I'll just do it to keep it humming as long as possible - last thing I need is things going kaputsky on a petrol engine nearing 275000 klms ... would mean I get that new engine sooner rather than later though ... Hmmm ... Wonder if I should tell the missus it "really is on the way out dear" ... "you think we should just bite the bullet and book it in for the LS1?" ... lol

Pete's GU3
23rd March 2011, 08:40 PM
hey big rig , i can just see your missus looking over your shoulder as your typing with a rolling pin in her hand ...lol

fullbost
5th August 2011, 01:23 PM
Tony when checking the maf sensor voltage you state there shoild be battery voltage on the white wire theb you said something about 5v which i dont understand could you please enlighten me

fat paddy
8th September 2011, 08:07 PM
OK.........here is my latest two cents worth.
I have cleaned the sensor in the past and know how ugly it can get with out a clean and how nice the vehicle runs after. Since then I have fitted a catch can. I have since done about 20-40 thou kms. I pulled the sensor out tonight to clean it but bugger me it is still as clean as. The Catch can is working beautifully. I will clean the sensor all the same just to make sure.
Next job is to fit the EGT and boost guages.
I bought a EGT from Autob.... and matching boost guage. The EGT was $180. Opened it on Father's Day to find no probe included. Sent the good wife back to enquire and the said shop ordered the replacement probe in. She picked it up today after handing over $100 more only to find more parts missing from the probe ie the nuts and olive (?). Brand = AutoMeter model 3343, its made in the USA so I was hoping for something with a bit of quality. My question is should the probe have been in the box in the first place and has my wife been ripped off.

claw45
12th September 2011, 09:56 PM
G/Day Tony, Have Passed my GU 03 3.0 di TD over to my son -- spoke to him today -- advising what a great site this is & he says his rig is feeling a bit flat ( 119k -- no issues ) so suggested he clean MAF sensor & complete the " insurance pack" -- would the correct steps be ( after clean sensor )
# 1 --fit boost & e t g gauges
# 2 --- fit blank off plate on emission port
#3 -- fit oil trap
He is electrical fitter so should be ok with testing -- how complex is gauge fitting -- is there much stripping down to get the gauge locations
correct ( welding /brazing ok) Thanks in advance Jim.

Jamie
30th January 2012, 11:47 PM
You mention a power loss? I went away this weekend and had a similar issue when driving back from Colac. After about 2 hours I began to struggle to get over 90 when towing a camper van. Is this what you've experienced. Mines a 4.5L dual fuel. Could the sensor be causing this?

YNOT
31st January 2012, 06:01 AM
You mention a power loss? I went away this weekend and had a similar issue when driving back from Colac. After about 2 hours I began to struggle to get over 90 when towing a camper van. Is this what you've experienced. Mines a 4.5L dual fuel. Could the sensor be causing this?

Possibly but I'd be doing a code test first. Did it happen on both fuels?

Tony

Jamie
1st February 2012, 04:31 PM
Running like grap on Petrol at the moment anyway, but yes it did happen on both fuels. What do you mean be a code test? Excuse my ignorance.

YNOT
1st February 2012, 04:46 PM
Running like grap on Petrol at the moment anyway, but yes it did happen on both fuels. What do you mean be a code test? Excuse my ignorance.

EFI vehicles have the ability to identify faults within the engine management system and store fault codes relating to them. Retriving/reading fault codes can give you a clue as to where to start looking for the cause of the fault. Fault codes rarely tell you exactly what is wrong or what component to replace, ie. just because a code might say "exhaust gas oxygen sensor out of range" doesn't mean the EGO sensor is faulty, the fault may be something as simple as a leaking inlet manifold gasket.

Check this thread about reading fault codes; http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?595-Reading-and-erasing-GU-Patrol-fault-codes&highlight=reading+erasing

Remember with ANY engine diagnostics, CHECK THE BASICS FIRST.

Tony

Jamie
1st February 2012, 05:28 PM
Thanks Tony, your post is really informative and easy enough a novice like myself should be able to follow.

myzathreeby
23rd February 2012, 08:15 PM
Hi YNOT
Just a question.. What is the mass air sensor actually detecting?
and what is it controlling.
Why would it affect the engine power.
I am assuming you only get the MAF sensor on the 3.0 turbo so I'm guessing it has something to do with a fault on the turbo or blocked filter. which causes a loss of power.
Cheers John

Robo
26th February 2012, 12:45 PM
MAF or AFM = mass air flow metre, or air flow metre.
sends signal to computer of actual airflow volume being ingested for the computer to determine fuel volume in relative time etc.
so if it's dirty or faulty incorrect info received by ECM and you have problems.
ECM= engine control module, "computer".
Only answered for Tony as I recon he's a very busy man.
Cheers

taslucas
26th February 2012, 12:54 PM
Hi YNOT
Just a question.. What is the mass air sensor actually detecting?
and what is it controlling.
Why would it affect the engine power.
I am assuming you only get the MAF sensor on the 3.0 turbo so I'm guessing it has something to do with a fault on the turbo or blocked filter. which causes a loss of power.
Cheers John

As robo has said above, the MAF sensor measures the amount of air that is entering the engine and sends the info to the cars computer which then calculates how much fuel to add in order to get the correct air/fuel mix.
All EFI cars have a MAF sensor.

Lucas

holden4th
3rd March 2012, 09:09 AM
Interesting thread. My GUIV idles well but a bit roughly, especially when it drops into overdrive below 2000 rpm and I feel that I don't have enough power when I accelerate up certain hills on my journey to work. I would be fairly sure that the previous owner has never had the MAF cleaned. So if I do this can I expect:

*smoother engine through the range?
*improved fuel consumption?

Robo
3rd March 2012, 10:20 AM
YES on both counts if the maf is the cause.

Robo
3rd March 2012, 10:28 AM
Also, efi petrol throttle bodies can be a bit of a problem also.
Can usually be cleaned on car well enough to correct clear blockages but must be done with stone cold engine.
Cheers.

Alburypete
10th March 2012, 07:02 AM
Thanks YNOT and and everyone contributing to this
Information like this, make (for me) the muddy waters of hitech motors a little less murky.
from a lo tech new comer.

Pete.

Conroy22
12th March 2012, 12:21 PM
My sensor has no voltage on it, where is the fuse situated (which one is it?) that supplies power to the sensor?

itchyvet
18th March 2012, 05:28 PM
Unless you're trying to clear error logs from the ECU - I left mine overnight to be sure when I had the coolant temp sensor problem, but I believe the manual states it can take up to 24 hours for a manual reset (battery disconnect) to clear all errors.

G'day Bigrig,

I have a 2.8 TD GU Patrol, owned it now for 6 years. Recently had blown head gasket and 6 stuffed exhaust valves. Anyway, the point is, when she blew the coolant out, took her to 4WD workshop to evaluate what the prob was. The eng overheat warning had gone off and logged it'self on the pc.
After disconnecting the battery for 24 hrs, as everyone seems to advise, on reconnecting the fault was still there, at the end of the day, I had to visit the local auto elec who hooked up his computer and cleared the pc memory.
I was advised by him, the only way such logs can be cleared is with a pc hooked up and manualy deleted.
I witnessed everything he did myself, so am continuosly puzzled by comments that claim to delet faults by disconnecting battery.

Rumcajs
18th March 2012, 07:38 PM
My sensor has no voltage on it, where is the fuse situated (which one is it?) that supplies power to the sensor?
There is no fuse, voltage is supplied by Engine ECU, it is only around 5V.
Cheers

bastardo
28th April 2012, 06:07 PM
mine seems to have no power some times, cleaned the mac but no difference. forgot to do reset though. second gear foot flat it just goes nowhere if revs are low. this normal?

mav345
29th April 2012, 09:43 AM
this is not quite true some efi vehicles had a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor).
cheers mav


As robo has said above, the MAF sensor measures the amount of air that is entering the engine and sends the info to the cars computer which then calculates how much fuel to add in order to get the correct air/fuel mix.
All EFI cars have a MAF sensor.

Lucas

lufkin
29th April 2012, 11:14 AM
mine seems to have no power some times, cleaned the mac but no difference. forgot to do reset though. second gear foot flat it just goes nowhere if revs are low. this normal?

You have probably already checked but it's an easy mistake. I cleaned my MAF and had no power after wards. Was stumped for a few min then realised I hadn't re plugged it in

Robo
13th June 2012, 01:24 AM
this is not quite true some efi vehicles had a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor).
cheers mav
My bad, wasn't thinking, "clunk"

Nissoj
13th June 2012, 12:03 PM
Thank you YNOT! I have a problem, I could not find the sensor cleaner in the market over here... I live in Bolivia. Would you know of anyother "cleaner" that would do the job?

TUCK
3rd July 2012, 10:44 PM
Hi all, Does anybody have some idiot proof instructions and advice for me on how to clean the MAF on a 1999 2.8.
Is it the same thing a the 3.0 info that YNOT kindly posted in this thread or something different ?
Please excuse ignorance - just learning, and thanks in advance for any info !

Sir Roofy
6th July 2012, 04:06 PM
well i went out today to see if the MAF sensor was dirty or not
i installed the provent 200 catch can just before xmas ive drained a bit of oil of
a couple of times and thought id take a gander well well dry and clean as a new borns bum
it certianly works for me

teago
18th July 2012, 05:29 PM
HI Tony I have a 2005 gu with a ZD30 motor the maf part no is 22680 7S000, However the wire codes are different to those quoted by you , mine are looking from the front of the vehicle left to right
nothing, yell/blue,yell/gren,red,blk ie 5 connectors
Can you give me the voltages /details tks and rgds teago

threedogs
18th July 2012, 06:15 PM
Theres a 4 pin and 5 pin, I'll get you a part number for 5 pin $115 on fleabay


back again like magic, pt no on box is 22680-AD21A

teago
19th July 2012, 01:19 PM
Tks very much threedogs Cheers Teago

OhBugger
5th September 2012, 05:53 AM
What if the red wire voltage reading is 13.8v?
That's what mine does. White is on 12 V which is the same as the battery voltage

Lieney
29th October 2012, 04:47 PM
Thought I had a MAF problem & acquired an engine management booklet. Free. Goodee.
Wiring diagram didnt show GU IV & then i realised YNOT had the colors worked out. Thank YNOT. Thought I was going to buy a MAF until I sorted the wires & colors out. Nissan want an exceptional quantity of $$$.

Oversize
14th December 2012, 06:20 AM
Adding a note from experience to this thread,

Thelma recently had a 'dirty MAF issue' and we cleaned, it. No fix. Replaced it, no fix. Replaced computer, no fix. For shits and giggles we put another new MAF sensor in and BINGO, fixed. So if it tastes, smells, feels like MAF - it probably is...

With problem solved Thelma runs like a new one and fuel efficiency is 7.5 to 8.5 L/100 ks. Very happy.

Thelma & Louise

Sir Roofy
9th January 2013, 07:52 PM
This pic shows the position of the Mass Air Flow sensor (on my ZD30) on the top of the air filter housing. Shown here with the wiring cover removed.
http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/P1000895Small.jpg


The testing procedure is done at the back of the plug with suitable probes to interrogate the wiring. The main test is for battery voltage at terminal 4 and supply voltage (5volts) at terminal 2 (white wire). Then you should have 1.6 – 2.0 volts at the red wire of terminal 1 with the engine idling. Voltage will increase as engine revs increase.


To remove the sensor you will need a T20 torx bit. After removing the two retaining screws, gently twist the sensor and remove from housing.
To clean the MAF sensor you will need a suitable cleaner, I got CRC MAF cleaner from Repco, I had to ask for it, it wasn't on display.
Do not touch any of the surfaces of the sensor, let the cleaning spray do the work. If you work over a white cloth, you can see the color of the solvent coming off, keep going untill the solvent comes off clean.


This pic shows the sensor cleaner, the sensor removed from the housing, and the torx bit used to remove it.
http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/P1000894Small.jpg


If you do need to replace the MAF sensor, these are the part numbers to use. These numbers are just for the sensor shown in the photo above. This is significantly cheaper than replacing the WHOLE air flow meter, housing and all.
ZD 30 Series 1-3 22680AD21A (previously 22680AD210 which was before that 22680 AD201)

ZD30 Series 4 22680 7S000

Tony

have a look here

crutchy26
27th January 2013, 12:55 PM
Love your Provent 200, in the background. Just like mine & hundreds of others!

lagoonboy
6th February 2013, 08:58 AM
Great thread YNOT... thanks.....reading with interest as have had power issues with my 5/2007 ZD30 whilst towing the camper.

It seems to be OK when the weather is cool but as soon as the weather heats up (30+) its really bad, come to think of it its bad when not towing as well in the heat.

Do you think the heat be adding to the problem if the MAF needs cleaning?

mudski
19th February 2013, 04:15 PM
@ lagoonboy. Try cleaning the MAF first. You should really do it on every service as a part of your routine.

mcleod
20th February 2013, 01:34 PM
thanks for this info, dont know whether mine has been cleaned or not, 150k on the clock, hopefully it was cleaned by the nissan blokes during the service.

chrysler
20th February 2013, 02:15 PM
g~day sorry for my lack of understanding my MAF shows......a..nothing,white,green/yel,green/yel,pink,black? i do not know what series it is?
regards Rob

Pepper
20th February 2013, 04:24 PM
Mine is the same as crysler above ....nothing,white,green/yellow,green/yellow,pink,black ...also my wires all have cuts in the insulation it appears that the nissan dealer did this to check voltages with a probe.....i cant get any voltage readings with my volt meter will try again...

mudski
20th February 2013, 06:19 PM
Chrysler post up your series e.g GUIV, GUIII,GUII and your build date. 2000-2004 are 4 pins MAFs and 2004-2007 are six pins. CRD's I'm not sure of yet. There is some 5pin MAFs floating around which suit the 2000-2004, after market they are, still work but not really sure what the fifth wire is for...
Peps, still having issues mate. Just so you know I have a shipment of 2.8's and 3.0ltr MAF (4 and 6 pin OEMs, just not in OEM boxes) hopefully arriving this week. Bloody chinese new year and the world has to stop for them...

chrysler
20th February 2013, 07:25 PM
thanx for quick response 11/07 GU vi (6) auto .i`m actually in the proccess of buying a new sensor ..intown here at Geraldton WA they want ~$625 for the sensor alone. I can get 1 new overnight from perth for $210.00 Genuine. some times it`s "why buy local"
Rob

mudski
20th February 2013, 08:40 PM
Yeah well I'd be getting it from Perth...Your sensor should have the Part number on it. Check it against the $210 part.

lagoonboy
21st February 2013, 07:32 AM
Thanks Mudski for the advice. Have just had it serviced and the mechanic cleaned it for me this time.... said it was filthy.... The difference is just incredible...30% power increase I would say... will certainly clean it more often now......

chrysler
23rd February 2013, 02:56 PM
well I put the new one in has worked a charm.. but still has a lag before boost i dont know if this could have anything to do with the turbo actuator? not set? any more advice please

Stokezi
26th March 2013, 10:10 AM
has anybody used an after market maf and if so are they ok to use or am l best to stick to nissan

lufkin
26th March 2013, 10:24 AM
has anybody used an after market maf and if so are they ok to use or am l best to stick to nissan

Would also be interested in this. Trying to do a custom air box and would rather MAF that doesn't bolt straight to air box of my 4.5 but rather connect via pipe or something

Cowboy
29th March 2013, 06:20 PM
Sorry if this has been asked already, I may have missed it somewhere, but, What are the tell tale signs, that the MAF may need cleaning or replacing.??

mudski
2nd April 2013, 12:26 AM
has anybody used an after market maf and if so are they ok to use or am l best to stick to nissan
Nothing wrong with aftermarket anything, its just that you know what you get when you buy OEM. Well you are supposed to know.

mudski
2nd April 2013, 12:28 AM
Would also be interested in this. Trying to do a custom air box and would rather MAF that doesn't bolt straight to air box of my 4.5 but rather connect via pipe or something
Like this?

mudski
2nd April 2013, 12:30 AM
Sorry if this has been asked already, I may have missed it somewhere, but, What are the tell tale signs, that the MAF may need cleaning or replacing.??
Car runs like a bag of poo basically. You should clean the MAF at every service anyhow....

OMG. tripllle dupe post. I need to go to bed..

Stokezi
2nd April 2013, 12:48 PM
Hi all just letting people know I just purchased a gu 3 zd30 maf sensor from repco for $94.00 could not believe that price

JackJunkie
20th May 2013, 10:52 PM
Thanks YNOT. Another job for me this weekend.
Is it correct that a catch can will stop this getting dirty again.

BoojaBear
6th June 2013, 09:50 AM
So I think I need to replace the air flow sensor when a finish rebuilding this engine

threedogs
6th June 2013, 01:05 PM
You can just clean with MAF cleaner from SCA, just make sure its dry when you replace it. If
you decide to buy another keep this for a spare. and yes a catch can will prevent fumes fouling the sensor

ns3474
13th June 2013, 10:27 AM
can anyone tell me does the car need to be warm when you clean the sensor or is it ok when cold .
cheers neil

threedogs
13th June 2013, 10:56 AM
You can clean it any time, spray heaps at the wire, DO NOT TOUCH wire with fingers or anything else.
Just make sure its dry before you re install it, While you're cleaning it some ppl dis connect battery at the same time.

ns3474
13th June 2013, 11:17 AM
thanks TD
neil

Beni C
2nd August 2013, 11:17 AM
Has anyone done this on the CRD? Going to have my head stuck under the bonnet this weekend and I have a can of MAF cleaner so I want to give it a bash.

I pulled out what I thought was the MAF a couple of weeks ago but it was flat and shiny, if that makes sense, nothing link the photo at the start of this thread.

scott.a.green
15th August 2013, 07:59 PM
Cheers for the top info Tony!

my third 256
16th August 2013, 07:31 AM
Has anyone done this on the CRD? Going to have my head stuck under the bonnet this weekend and I have a can of MAF cleaner so I want to give it a bash.

I pulled out what I thought was the MAF a couple of weeks ago but it was flat and shiny, if that makes sense, nothing link the photo at the start of this thread.
yes done mine and it is different to the earlier models fairly flat and shiny dont touch the surface

kevin07
16th August 2013, 08:08 AM
yes done mine and it is different to the earlier models fairly flat and shiny dont touch the surface

first time I pulled mine out for a clean it had a big thumb print on it

vicjak
21st August 2013, 09:26 AM
Hi,
I wander if you can help me. I have a dilemma with AFM meter in my Patrol.
What could be reason for repetitive AFM meter failure?

Facts:
Patrol 3l diesel 2004 model GU (not a newer mk2) 3.0-litre ZD30TD
everything under bonnet factory, no modifications, std air filter
since 2009 four AFM meteres failed, always buy genuine Nissan
no off road driving, clean city use
dirty AFM meter reason eliminated, it fails electronically, suddenly AFM just stops working not gradually (dramatic loss of acceleration or power on up hill).
Last AFM fitted week ago failed after six days (previous lasted up to two years)

I have done plenty of speculations but has any one had the same repetitive failure problem?
Importantly has any one find out what was the underlying problem?
Victor

Pezzer
28th September 2013, 04:55 PM
Hi what about the TB42E ???????????

Pezzer
28th September 2013, 04:58 PM
Hi what about TB42E ?
ZD30 Prior series 4
there should be 4 wires at your MAF they'll be Red, White, Black and White terminal 1,2,3 and 4 respectively,
With the car idling, warmed up to normal operating temp, vehicle in nuetral and the AC off test the following;
The 1 (R) should be reading between 1.6 and 2 volts
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
With the car stopped but the ignition 'on' disconnect the MAF plug and test
The 2 (w) should be reading approx 5v
The 4 (W) should be reading the battery voltage.
If they read these voltages your MAF is fuctioning correctly.

ZD30 Series 4
there should be a 6 pin connector Nothing, White, Black, Red, White and Black, terminal 1,2,3,4,5,&6
With the car idling, warmed up to normal operating temp AC off, in neutral no load test the following
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
The 4 (R) should be reading between 1.5 to 1.9v at idle increasing to 4.0v when revving through to 4000rpm
With the car stopped but the ignition 'on' disconnect the MAF plug and test
The 2 (W) should be reading the battery voltage
If they read these you MAF is fuctioning

TB45
There should be a Black/Red wire, Black and White wire Term 2,3 &4
With the car idling, warmed up in nuetral and ac off there should be the following
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
The 4 (W) should be reading 1.3 to 1.8v, and with the engine at 2500rpm should be 2.1 to 2.5v
With the car of disconnect the MAF plug turn the ignition on and test
The 2 (B/R) should be reading the battery voltage

TB48
There should be a White/Green, Yellow, Black/White and Black/Red Term 1,2,3 & 4
With the car idling, warmed up, in nuetral and the AC off there should be the following
The 1 (W/G) should be reading 1.1 to 1.5v, and at 2500rpm 1.7 to 2.4v
The 3 (B/W) should be reading 0v

Turn the car off and disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
The 2 (Y) should be reading approx 5v
The 4 (B/R) should be reading the battery voltage

RD28
There should be White, Black and Red Term 1,2 &3
With the car idling warmed up in nuetral with the AC off there should be the following
The 2 (B) Should be reading 0v
The 3 (R) should be reading 1.6 to 2.0v

Withe the car off disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
The 1 (W) should be the battery voltage

If they dont read the battery voltage of the approx 5v at those respective termianls there is most likely a short in the system so check the connectors harnesses and plugs if they don't read the voltages at idle then there is most likely a fault with the MAF.

Tony

Clunk
28th September 2013, 05:27 PM
I was just looking for that my self pezzer

AJTich
19th October 2013, 10:48 PM
Thanks Tony. Have been looking for the Part No. for just the sensor, but could only find the whole shebang..
A&J.

Drovers Hill
4th November 2013, 11:39 AM
Did the adjustments to the DAwes valve fix it Tony? Mine is doing a similar thing. Clyde

threedogs
4th November 2013, 04:32 PM
You're on an old thread here don't think some of these guys are still around.
You may find you need to open up Dawes so there is less PSI for the time being
Use your thread for Dawes Questions, I only looked here as I saw your name

boosh
6th January 2014, 09:01 AM
I'm just wondering what kind of voltages indicate a bad MAF sensor?
Mine is a 2000 ZD30 showing 2.4v on the red and 0.3v on the black.
Also if it is bad, would it contribute to the motor getting warm? I can drive all day on flat no probs, but hit an incline and it'll start rising. I've got all NADS setup except a new exhaust to put on one day.

threedogs
6th January 2014, 12:39 PM
@ Boosh I'd be looking at radiator related problems. hose the bottom
of your radiator, as mud dust etc tend to block the lower half, go gently
as carwash doovas can be a bit high pressure for my likings, don't pull trigger

boosh
6th January 2014, 02:39 PM
Yeh the system was flushed not long ago, radiator was all good. I've got a new thermostat on the way now. It's an easy $30 to see if that helps.

PoorKing
7th February 2014, 06:35 AM
thanks for the info will be trying it on my tb48 soon, see how it goes will let you know

mudski
7th February 2014, 12:12 PM
I would advise on any car that has a MAF to get some MAF cleaner and clean it every service. Probably not necessary for road cars but it doesn't hurt to do it.

rookiepatroller
13th February 2014, 06:04 PM
Cheers mate, good info.

Warwick89
21st February 2014, 05:49 PM
Is this what the ZD30 Maf sensor looks like or am I ment to pull it apart some more so it looks like the rest?
40870408694086840867

No such thing as a dumb question only dumb individual's hahahaaha

Hodge
21st February 2014, 06:29 PM
Warwick. That is exactly what they look like. That is the complete unit. Nothing more to pull apart. If you look inside the small metal plates are the actual "sensor" bit, and they're the ones that need cleaning.

Bloodyaussie
21st February 2014, 07:29 PM
Funny last night while George was here trouble shooting we went through my collection of AFM's and all but one were working and that one belongs to Irish which he lent me????

Bloody temperamental things and pricey!!!

Warwick89
21st February 2014, 11:29 PM
Warwick. That is exactly what they look like. That is the complete unit. Nothing more to pull apart. If you look inside the small metal plates are the actual "sensor" bit, and they're the ones that need cleaning.

Thanks mate just got a little worried because it doesn't look like the rest lol

patrolman123
20th March 2014, 07:34 PM
Has anyone tried those billet maf sensor holders/housings. If so whats the benift??

seekers282
21st March 2014, 11:51 AM
ive tried cleaning it once..and i was dumb enough not to read instruction for cleaning it..after cleaning it..i waited for 20min(i didnt know i was supposed to waited until it was completely dry inside out..) and install it..and there it goes..maf sensor gone faulty..new maf sensor installed..,cost me hundred bucks..and its was like a virus..after it goes faulty..it effect everything..2 trouble code found..injection timing control,maf, light up..and now its top overhaul..blown head gasket..not sure if the head cracked or not..

mudski
23rd March 2014, 04:06 PM
Has anyone tried those billet maf sensor holders/housings. If so whats the benift??

I'm using the maf housing and hi flow lid. Once put in I saw no difference what so ever. It's was only until I found I could screw up the boost a crap load more now is what made the difference. Pre fitment I could get no more than 16 psi. I have gone as high as 25 psi and still didn't get limp mode. Currently running 20 psi now.

Oversize
15th April 2014, 06:23 AM
ive tried cleaning it once..and i was dumb enough not to read instruction for cleaning it..after cleaning it..i waited for 20min(i didnt know i was supposed to waited until it was completely dry inside out..) and install it..and there it goes..maf sensor gone faulty..new maf sensor installed..,cost me hundred bucks..and its was like a virus..after it goes faulty..it effect everything..2 trouble code found..injection timing control,maf, light up..and now its top overhaul..blown head gasket..not sure if the head cracked or not..

Am thinking you had more than a MAF problem. I may be wrong. I often clean my MAF sensor as I work on dirt roads a lot. Can generally feel the lack of power in acceleration between 2nd and third gear as my key to a clean. Always do it when its hot so it dries quickly. Sorry to hear about your problems...

Hodge
15th April 2014, 04:47 PM
Are the MAF's meant to have some sort of a rubber seal around the gap where the screws go? Just seems to me that it isn't a perfect air tight fit.

threedogs
15th April 2014, 05:08 PM
From memory I thought they had an "O" ring to seal it
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-ZD30DDTI-GU-3-0-00-04-Air-Flow-Meter-AFM-MAF-ZD30DI-Pulsar-Maxima-/111133302919?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e00fa087

energymann
13th May 2014, 02:00 PM
Thanks for the post

mudski
13th May 2014, 07:34 PM
From memory I thought they had an "O" ring to seal it
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-ZD30DDTI-GU-3-0-00-04-Air-Flow-Meter-AFM-MAF-ZD30DI-Pulsar-Maxima-/111133302919?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e00fa087 (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?campid=5336709507&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F705-53470-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5336709507%26amp%3Btoolid%3D10001 %26amp%3Bmpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com.au %252Fitm%252FNissan-Patrol-ZD30DDTI-GU-3-0-00-04-Air-Flow-Meter-AFM-MAF-ZD30DI-Pulsar-Maxima-%252F111133302919%253Fpt%253DAU_Car_Parts_Accessor ies%2526amp%253Bhash%253Ditem19e00fa087)

Thats for the earlier ZD30's John. The later Di's and a CRD's use a different maf and there is no seal on them. I advise to apply a small smear of grease around the maf where it sits in the housing. Just to help it seal better. This applies to both ZD30 MAF's....

Avo
13th May 2014, 08:14 PM
Forgive my ignorance,now I have read all these things about what to do and the benefits of doing so.But when I bought a can of cleaner from my local car store the bloke was telling me it can do more harm than good.the way he explained it was I could damage the fine wire inside..Now I am quite prepared to do this just thought I would mention it..Is it going to stuff it,will I do more damage than good.Out of all the shops in town.2 mechanics and 2 car yards plus 1 local car parts place I only found one shop with this Mass airflow cleaner..

Hodge
13th May 2014, 08:28 PM
The only way I can see the cleaner stuff the MAF is if you reinstall it while it is still wet and not fully dry.

Dave_H
13th May 2014, 09:23 PM
When spraying it i would just be a little more cautious around the wires and move the can back a little further when spraying near them. This is what i do and have not had any problems.

P4trol
13th May 2014, 09:34 PM
Ok, a little uncertainty on the forums about a cleaning...

Maf sensor cleaner has three actions while it cleans. One is to dissolve any muck on the sensor/wire - oil, dirt, smoke (maybe smoke) etc. Two is to blast the muck off. Three us to dry without any chemical residue.

Obviously it is volatile (evaporates quickly). I guarantee it will affect your engine less than cleaning out your Intercooler with petrol (and failing to remove the petrol fumes).

If you can't see it wet, it is ok to reinstall.

Which brings to the second worry, the force of the spray bending/damaging the wire. The force of the spray won't do that.

Last step, have a beer.

mudski
13th May 2014, 09:39 PM
Ok, a little uncertainty on the forums about a cleaning...

bla bla bla

Last step, have a beer.

Last step is best. Lol....
I fail to see the issue with cleaning it. Remove the maf, spray the shite out of it, let it dry, takes about half a stubbie or two mouthfuls, put the maf back in, go enjoy more beer.

People worry too much about it....

DOG
27th November 2014, 11:17 AM
Hi there I too have a zd30 (2010 Mod) in a 2007 patrol (auto) the motor has only 30,000 Ks on it, But I cant keep fuel in it ? It runs great but at 5 Ks/Lt ,(14 mpg ) driven real quietly , It costs a lot to go any where , I took the MAF sensor out it seems to be new , Any clues what check next PLEASE ?

threedogs
27th November 2014, 11:28 AM
spray the Maf you may not be able to see the fine film of oil residue on it.
You may be surprised the difference it will make.
Supercheap and JayCar sell Maf cleaner
Maybee look at fitting a provent catch can
PM mudski for pricing etc,

Bacho86
31st December 2014, 12:29 PM
Hey all, I took my MAF sensor out for the first time yesterday, and it looked pretty clean?

Can someone please confirm what parts need cleaning? I saw a small hole, with what looked like a resistor inside (assume this is the sensor) - is that the only area that needs a spray?

Cheers

5325553256

4bye4
31st December 2014, 12:41 PM
Hey all, I took my MAF sensor out for the first time yesterday, and it looked pretty clean?

Can someone please confirm what parts need cleaning? I saw a small hole, with what looked like a resistor inside (assume this is the sensor) - is that the only area that needs a spray?

Cheers

5325553256

Hey mate, I took mine out yesterday and cleaned it too. The resistor thing is the sensor wire. You may not be able to see oil on it but it made a difference to mine. I just held it (by the plug) over a piece of white kitchen paper and sprayed cleaner over the wires and the plate until the drips were clean. Wasn't much the first spray was a little yellow coloured. Waited till it dried then put it back.
Why do they put an air conditioning hose where you need to get a tool to undo the MAF sensor?
Tony

Bacho86
31st December 2014, 01:36 PM
Thanks Tony, at least I was looking in the right area! Yeh i pulled off the air filter cover & pipe to improve access to the MAF

the evil twin
31st December 2014, 02:52 PM
Hey all, I took my MAF sensor out for the first time yesterday, and it looked pretty clean?

Can someone please confirm what parts need cleaning? I saw a small hole, with what looked like a resistor inside (assume this is the sensor) - is that the only area that needs a spray?

Cheers

5325553256

The MAF has two sense elements.
One for air flow and one for air temp.
Each is equally important really.

The guys have already mentioned how to best clean the device.
If you are running dry air cleaners such as factory you'll only need to do so every 10 to 20 thousand K's.
If you are running any type of oiled air cleaners such as K&N etc I would suggest every 5 to 10 thousand K's

If you fit a catch can then the intervals can be much further apart.
The reason being that most of the residue that finds it's way into the MAF sensor pack is from turbo surge pushing air backwards to the normal direction of flow.
Turbo surge is also the source of the "oil ring" you will see on the inlet plumbing side of the factory air filter.

That oil ring can be a good guide to how often you may need to give the MAF a clean.

mullet_hunter
13th February 2015, 01:05 AM
another good read..

mjr350
14th February 2015, 08:30 PM
What causes the oil ring on a N/A engine?

BigRAWesty
14th February 2015, 10:55 PM
What causes the oil ring on a N/A engine?

The only thing that could cause that would be leaking intake valves
I would think.

Brendynw
18th April 2015, 02:13 PM
Hi guys, I have rd28 in 98 gu man, last couple of days revs in neutral and when clutch in, have been going up and down on there own! And when it drops down to around 600 revs it will idle rough, when you lift revs it clears! Anybody got any answers! Cheers!

pjgagg
24th April 2015, 07:45 AM
i had a sleepless night thinking of major problems as the patrol was surging really bad yesyerday on acceleration over 2000rpm. i joined this site this morning and with the step by step instruction above , i have fixed the problem. cheers mate

watrolly
9th August 2015, 09:06 PM
and we live and learn. Just cleaned mine .it was manky.seems a bit more responsive but I have other issues to fix as well. Thanks for the tips though

threedogs
10th August 2015, 06:01 AM
and we live and learn. Just cleaned mine .it was manky.seems a bit more responsive but I have other issues to fix as well. Thanks for the tips though

Some dis-connect the battery while they
clean the Maf allowing the ECU to relearn/re-set

Chubba
17th August 2015, 01:10 PM
Hi all. Is there any chance someone has a picture of the MAF in a 4.5L petrol. So I can see where it is located. Cheers.

Gold GUIII
18th August 2015, 09:37 PM
Don't know if this has already been discussed - if I don't have the proper bit to undo the screws holding the MAF sensor in, is there any reason why I can't just take out the section of pipe with the MAF in it and spray my CRC MAF cleaner on it? Or should I just buy the bit and stop being a tight**** (rhetorical question really)

mudski
18th August 2015, 09:51 PM
Just buy the bit. Its way quicker this way and your less likely to stuff the plastic sections that hold the four nuts in place where you undo the bolts to separate the lid to housing.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Gold GUIII
15th September 2015, 07:26 PM
Yeah, just got my lazy a** down to supercheap & bought one, can of MAF cleaner too. Bloody thing was spotless & looked brand new anyway. Oh well, now I know.

jay see
16th September 2015, 01:23 AM
Still need to do this.
Will get around to it one day.

Wreno
3rd November 2015, 11:36 PM
Thanks for the great instructions and which size bit to buy (T20). Did this on the weekend with no probs and disconnected the battery as well. Cleaner is not the cheapest thing to buy, but 30% off at repco for RACQ special def helped :)

Cheers

bsteveo
12th December 2015, 08:48 AM
Some dis-connect the battery while they
clean the Maf allowing the ECU to relearn/re-set

Is there much if any advantage to be gained by doing so?

threedogs
12th December 2015, 09:08 AM
As I said it allows the ECU to reset back to OE values,
and not maintain any new values due to dirty maf etc.
seems to do the trick

the evil twin
12th December 2015, 04:41 PM
Is there much if any advantage to be gained by doing so?

Definitely yes if the MAF was dirty and won't hurt to 'wake' the ECU up and send it back to Kindy even if the MAF was clean

Chubba
13th December 2015, 05:46 PM
Hi all. Is there any chance someone has a picture of the MAF in a 4.5L petrol. So I can see where it is located. Cheers.

Just as a closure for this question.
63236

Pulled out to see location in engine bay
63235

growler2058
29th December 2015, 11:46 AM
Just as a closure for this question.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63236&stc=1

Pulled out to see location in engine bay
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63235&stc=1

Bout time you got back to us! :)

growler2058
29th December 2015, 03:55 PM
Well cleaned my MAF this arvo. I remembered that the screws on the MAF are weird they're a torx but have a lump in the middle making using a torx bit impossiblehttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/218.jpg
So pulled everything around it apart and got it like this
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/219.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2015/12/220.jpg
Sprayed the hell outta it over a nice pink blouse, and was surprised how little shit came from it.


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

the evil twin
29th December 2015, 04:05 PM
Yeah, mate,
The screws are 'Security Torx' a tamper resistant version of the standard Torx.
Problem is the bits are freely available everywhere IE Jaycar, Ebay, etc etc

What did the Tojo owner say when you gave him his blouse back?

growler2058
29th December 2015, 04:07 PM
That's wife. She doesn't know yet. But it was pretty clean so she may never ever know :)


Sent from my iPhone using My thumbs

growler2058
30th December 2015, 05:44 AM
I've posted elsewhere if I need to reset the scangauge at all after having the battery unplugged for 2 hours. But this mornings drive to work the scangauge fuel consumption has dropped by easy 20%. If it's reading accurate how farkin good is that maf cleaner spray!!!

Winnie
30th December 2015, 07:01 AM
I've posted elsewhere if I need to reset the scangauge at all after having the battery unplugged for 2 hours. But this mornings drive to work the scangauge fuel consumption has dropped by easy 20%. If it's reading accurate how farkin good is that maf cleaner spray!!!
Why do you think threedogs arks on about it so much?!

MudRunnerTD
30th December 2015, 07:50 AM
I've posted elsewhere if I need to reset the scangauge at all after having the battery unplugged for 2 hours. But this mornings drive to work the scangauge fuel consumption has dropped by easy 20%. If it's reading accurate how farkin good is that maf cleaner spray!!!


Right!!! I'm going out to clean the MAF on both my Patrols now!!

taslucas
30th December 2015, 08:05 AM
Mafless tune on the commy makes her suck more juice lol

tappin from tassie

growler2058
30th December 2015, 10:00 AM
Mafless tune on the commy makes her suck more juice lol

tappin from tassie

Was just chatting a bloke who did that on his SS

threedogs
30th December 2015, 11:59 AM
Sharen had it done to her CRD and was very impressed
not sure if the new owner thinks the same king-ady1

taslucas
30th December 2015, 02:16 PM
Was just chatting a bloke who did that on his SS
Pretty common for petrol road cars. I wonder what the pros and cons would be for a diesel?

tappin from tassie

Miral
5th July 2016, 03:19 PM
Is anyone still here?

I've read the majority of the posts here to understand whats going on, however still a little unsure. I've got a Nissan Y62 with 300k+ mileage. I experienced losing power on the highway where my engine made a noise of something spraying in the engine, acceleration was happening but very off. The car then would drive at 4k rpm only and experience the most unusual gear change with a jolt. There is a light whine in the engine and then it continued to drive below 2k rpm and would rumble and shake a little at a stalled position when in neutral.


Mind you, I was low on fuel when this occurred.


Any thoughts?

I was considering the MAF sensor, the fuel injectors/fuel pump (but when I had damaged before my fuel pump, the car lost all power - so unlikely I'd believe).

taslucas
5th July 2016, 05:33 PM
Is anyone still here?

I've read the majority of the posts here to understand whats going on, however still a little unsure. I've got a Nissan Y62 with 300k+ mileage. I experienced losing power on the highway where my engine made a noise of something spraying in the engine, acceleration was happening but very off. The car then would drive at 4k rpm only and experience the most unusual gear change with a jolt. There is a light whine in the engine and then it continued to drive below 2k rpm and would rumble and shake a little at a stalled position when in neutral.


Mind you, I was low on fuel when this occurred.


Any thoughts?

I was considering the MAF sensor, the fuel injectors/fuel pump (but when I had damaged before my fuel pump, the car lost all power - so unlikely I'd believe).
It might be best to start a new thread mate. You might get a bit more attention and be able to problem solve one step at a time

>>>tappin from tassie

shaun100
23rd September 2016, 05:34 PM
Hi Guys, Bit of a thread dig but here goes.

My 05 ZD30 feels very sjow so I checked the maf volts as per post 1 and got the following.

term 2 IGN on, unplugged 12.85V (battery is 12.7v??)
term 3 IGN off 0.03v
term 4 Running from idle to 4000 RPM 1.9 to 4v

The thing that concerns me is term 3 as its supposed to be zero.

Any ideas please, is the maf stuffed?

Thanks in advance.

GU09
20th December 2016, 07:20 PM
Thanks for a really useful thread. Cleaned the MAF today.

martingomez65
6th May 2017, 04:46 PM
Help i am from venezuela i need this maf 22680VC201 in my country is hard find this part i have a friend on melboure her comming to venezuela on may 28 i need help to find this part and best price

Hodge
6th May 2017, 06:03 PM
mudski

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MB
7th May 2017, 06:18 AM
I don't think Mudski stocks them Hodgey, plenty of other parts though on his Ebay shop! 'Northern 4x4'

MB
7th May 2017, 06:22 AM
Help i am from venezuela i need this maf 22680VC201 in my country is hard find this part i have a friend on melboure her comming to venezuela on may 28 i need help to find this part and best price
G'day Martin, tell your friend that 'PatrolApart' in Lilydale, Melbourne, will be able to help you out.
Here is their website mate, give them a call on Monday morning: http://patrolapart.com.au/

MB
7th May 2017, 06:29 AM
Just used your code Martin on their website and it does look like genuine Nissan ones are in stock ready: http://patrolapart.com.au/product-search?criteria=22680VC201&association%5B1%5D=

Daniel2311
2nd January 2018, 02:53 PM
He all, apologies for my lack of mechanical knowledge, Im using this forum and others to learn what I can, anyway the GU RD2.8 is blowing heaps of black smoke when under load and Ive read cleaning the MAF may assist in reducing this smoke. So Ive had a go at taking the MAF out but am not sure if I have to undo the 4 screws on the plate the electrical plug plugs into or spray the MAF cleaner straight onto the what looks like a sensor that you see when looking up the pipe from the engine side of the air box?

The other question I have is do I need to check voltages on the MAF? What does this tell me? If so (sounding real dumb now), can anyone give me a brief explanation on how to use the mutlimetre to do this??

Thanks in advance.

74117 74118

jrad87
3rd October 2018, 04:11 PM
works very well i do mine every service but have a new gen one ready to go in once i do my injector pump

Schuu
18th October 2018, 12:59 PM
Thanks Tony for the information :)

Bob
18th October 2018, 03:22 PM
Jeez we all miss you Tony (YNOT)

Midnight Toker
24th November 2018, 02:21 PM
I was given a 1996 Patrol GQ Dual fuel recently which has done 400k.

It had a service and ran well on both fuels. The car was then unused for a few months and when restarted runs fine on LPG, starts and idles well on petrol but just wont run, it splutters and backfires.

Could this be the AFM? Any ideas? Apologies for my ignorance.

Also, I left the car idling on Petrol for half an hour to see if it would 'clear' but it sprung a big fuel leak. I don't have anywhere to work on the car or any tools at the moment so I had to give it to auto mechanic to fix the leak. They said two fuel pipes had split and needed to be replaced. Coincidence / blocked fuel filter?

Thanks for any advice.

Remec6304
17th December 2018, 05:15 AM
Hi all my sons tb45e 1999 model stopped sparking when he snapped wires to his maf. He repaired wires but thinks he connected them wrongly(now in right locations) but still no spark. When he try’s to start you can hear a buzzing sound from the ecm area. Any help/ info would be appreciated thanks.

HELP NEEDED GUYS

Zero Five
27th June 2019, 09:28 PM
Do i have to Unplugged the battery first before i remove the maf sensor to be cleaned? or i have to remove the maf sensor first and clean it then before putting it back in thats the time i have to unplugged the battery? thanks

Avo
27th June 2019, 09:30 PM
Do i have to Unplugged the battery first before i remove the maf sensor to be cleaned? or i have to remove the maf sensor first and clean it then before putting it back in thats the time i have to unplugged the battery? thanksYes mate all ya have to do is disconnect battery for 30 odd minutes before refitting dry maf..

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MB
27th June 2019, 09:39 PM
Very fair question mate, keen to learn also!
Assuming the ignition is offski should in my nuffy theory be fine, although I did nearly set a 1961 model 6v VW beetle alight installing a fully sic FM/AM radio headset.
If in doubt, and or welding aboard, disconnect has always been my safe go to for the added extra 2 minutes work !


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MB
27th June 2019, 09:42 PM
Whoops, wrong answer again :-)


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Bidja
27th June 2019, 10:57 PM
MAF sensor clean. Am I doing it wrong, always only just unplug elec connector, remove sensor, give it a squirt, let it dry and then just put it back in / connect and go. No problems to my knowledge.

the evil twin
28th June 2019, 11:02 AM
ECU's are constantly learning and adjusting some engine sensor and operating conditions but it isn't an instantaneous process more a running average sort of deal.

If you disco the battery for 30 minutes it forces the ECU to immediately start to go thru a relearn process for adjusting individual engine parameters starting from factory or default ECU settings.
IE the ECU starts from factory trim and ends up at its new trim

If you don't disco the battery and only unplug and clean the MAF then the ECU maintains its existing trim settings and adjusts its trim starting from that point rather than default.
IE the ECU starts from the prev trim and ends at its new trim

FWIW I never bothered forcing a relearn unless I changed the MAF or the MAF was filthy and/or threw codes prior to cleaning as IMHO a relatively clean and functioning MAF won't affect ECU trim all that much after a clean so trim is probably closer to existing than defult.

Unless you are operating in really grotty environments or getting a lot of Turbo Surge blowing oil film back over the MAF a clean every 30 to 40 thousand K's or so is more than adequate for a normally functioning engine and IMHO the ECU doesn't need a forced relearn

Bidja
28th June 2019, 11:55 AM
Far bit of road dust around home, guess do maintain air filtration thru life though. Probably has paid off in line with your comment. First 80 thou ks did not go near MAF but have clean every 10 thou ks since (all up 160 thou ks since new veh).

Then again have had the battery out many times for mods..hahaha

Stump2jz
12th February 2020, 05:17 PM
So went to test my maf today and mine does not match any listed here. I have a 6 pin plug with 5 wires. It has nothing in the first pin and then its white, yellow with blue line, yellow with blue line, pink, black. Any ideas on how to test this?? 07 crd auto