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View Full Version : My attempt at installing a LOKKA brand Auto locker



growler2058
25th August 2011, 03:02 PM
Well I got my hands on my LoKKa today and i am soooo excited.......now anyway. I will attempt the install this weekend, gotta work half day Saturday and a bloody outlaws 70th i MUST attend (apparently) for lunch Sunday so may not get finished. But i will put up photos, foters, and piccies of the process. Heres the first 1 i had to open the box and play with it ahahhahahahahaa.

Bigrig
25th August 2011, 03:24 PM
Well I got my hands on my LoKKa today and i am soooo excited.......now anyway. I will attempt the install this weekend, gotta work half day Saturday and a bloody outlaws 70th i MUST attend (apparently) for lunch Sunday so may not get finished. But i will put up photos, foters, and piccies of the process. Heres the first 1 i had to open the box and play with it ahahhahahahahaa.

Good luck boss!!!

Sir Roofy
25th August 2011, 04:18 PM
this will be very interesting

04OFF
25th August 2011, 08:27 PM
Sweeeet ! :coffeetime:

Assume its for the front diff not rear ?




As this is a mod that is on my future to do list, i shall be watching this thread with intrest.


Be really great, if you have time, to take pics from start to finish, and list tools you need/used ?

growler2058
25th August 2011, 08:33 PM
I will do just that mate, try and post something useful on the forum rather than my usual dribble hahahahahaha. I already have the axles out as have just done wheel bearings seals and swivel hub bearings and seals. Tonys put a brilliant post up re this part so I'll start from removing front prop shaft and diff centre and take it from there. And yup its the front diff

Ade
25th August 2011, 08:58 PM
Hahaha..cheers for the new toy mate.

I'll follow this thread to the finish..

04OFF
25th August 2011, 10:13 PM
I will do just that mate, try and post something useful on the forum rather than my usual dribble hahahahahaha. I already have the axles out as have just done wheel bearings seals and swivel hub bearings and seals. Tonys put a brilliant post up re this part so I'll start from removing front prop shaft and diff centre and take it from there. And yup its the front diff

Cool, perhaps you could you put a link to Tonys info, im sure it will be usefull for others who discover this thread, and are wanting to do the job starting from scratch ?



Or......Maybe Tony just needs to fit one in my rig, only so i can take detailed pics from the start, all the way through ;) (ha-ha)





Would also be interested if you could measure your approx turning circle when locked in 4wd with your open centre now (obviously need to be on grass, dirt or sand etc), so it can be compared after lokka install.

I also assume you have manual hubs ?, im interested to get the chance to confirm/dismiss the auto hub problems when used with lokkas (ive heard mixed reports about UN-locking issues)

nowoolies
25th August 2011, 10:15 PM
watchin and a waitin mate
this is one thing i want to do
front diff only though

GUte
26th August 2011, 12:51 AM
Goodluck, you will be amazed at the difference they make :)

growler2058
26th August 2011, 05:21 AM
Cool, perhaps you could you put a link to Tonys info, im sure it will be usefull for others who discover this thread, and are wanting to do the job starting from scratch ?



Or......Maybe Tony just needs to fit one in my rig, only so i can take detailed pics from the start, all the way through ;) (ha-ha)





Would also be interested if you could measure your approx turning circle when locked in 4wd with your open centre now (obviously need to be on grass, dirt or sand etc), so it can be compared after lokka install.

I also assume you have manual hubs ?, im interested to get the chance to confirm/dismiss the auto hub problems when used with lokkas (ive heard mixed reports about UN-locking issues)

I've already got the axles out so will probably be a bit hard to complete a full circle at the moment hahahaha don't reckon the trolley jack would give true representation of the radius hahaha but will measure when locked up, apparently they unlock when turning but lock again if powering or slipping/spinning

YNOT
26th August 2011, 07:36 AM
Cool, perhaps you could you put a link to Tonys info, im sure it will be usefull for others who discover this thread, and are wanting to do the job starting from scratch ?



Or......Maybe Tony just needs to fit one in my rig, only so i can take detailed pics from the start, all the way through ;) (ha-ha)




Would also be interested if you could measure your approx turning circle when locked in 4wd with your open centre now (obviously need to be on grass, dirt or sand etc), so it can be compared after lokka install.

I also assume you have manual hubs ?, im interested to get the chance to confirm/dismiss the auto hub problems when used with lokkas (ive heard mixed reports about UN-locking issues)

It can be organised................

Tony

Ben-e-boy
26th August 2011, 08:51 AM
cool!! you wont regret that install. 2 things I do recomend is 140w non lsd oil and a power steering cooling kit with an auto locker you will find the steering abit harder and (with mine anyway) and after some hard work on the wheel it likes to cut out so I bought a power steering cooling kit. its pretty cheap preventitive maintenance for you (for me reactive maintenance :( )

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-STEERING-COOLER-KIT-D13200-/380355013251?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588eecea83

growler2058
26th August 2011, 09:00 AM
Cheers mate thanks for the heads up!

Edit: It'll probably be reactive for me too!! i'm not game to ask the waR dept for any more coin at the moment, i t wouldnt be good for my health hahhahahahahahaha

nowoolies
26th August 2011, 09:02 AM
Cheers mate thanks for the heads up!

so ....you got the job finished last night ????????????
after all you had from 18:00 to 06:00 half hour clean up and back on here

where`s the piccies hahahaha

growler2058
26th August 2011, 09:14 AM
Soon sir woolies soon

04OFF
26th August 2011, 04:51 PM
I've already got the axles out so will probably be a bit hard to complete a full circle at the moment hahahaha don't reckon the trolley jack would give true repress ratio hahaha but will measure when locked up, apparently they unlock when turning but lock again if powering or slipping/spinning

Ha-ha, i guess i read conflicting info about these things all time, they are supposed to unlock one finger easy, when not under engine driven load, but everyone complains of heavy steering (even when going slow on the flat)

I know full lock is full lock, but it stands to reason that if the lokka makes the steering heavy, it is applying resistance between the two front axels/wheels , and it is not just behaving like a standard open centre on turns, therefore i can understand how this resistance could reduce your turning circle in off road situations ?


Also i wish to test the effects of the lokka on soft sand tracks, in order to steer out of deep tracks/ruts you need to hit the gas, this will not allow the release of the lokka for turning, not that i can see any "sand" offering enough resistance to unlock the lokka anyway ?






It can be organised................

Tony

Mmmm, if you are serious ,work out how much you'd want to fit one, ill price up a lokka (after i pay for my paint repairs and sliders) perhaps if enough intrest, even organise a forum "group purchase" on lokkas , then we (well you) can demonstrate how to do the job !.......i can help of course, but id much rather take pics and write a story than play with diff oil any day :o

Be great if we could put together a dedicated thread with good quality install pics and write up from the start, and also include before and after test results ?


:clapping:

YNOT
26th August 2011, 05:02 PM
I've removed and refitted more diffs than I care to remember but I've never installed an Lokka so lets see how Growler goes first,
if it's as easy as what people say it is it won't be a problem.

Tony

growler2058
26th August 2011, 07:31 PM
From what ive read in the past the directions werent crystal clear but have improved greatly and the unlocking issue or lack of should be resolved i'll post up a copy of the directions later, but components of your diff must be within tolerance to get maximum performance. ive got some photos of my removal of the centre i'll post shortly

growler2058
26th August 2011, 08:00 PM
Ok to start heres Tony's excellant pictorial to get your axles out http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?2067-How-do-i-change-a-gu-cv&highlight=replace
The first couple of shots are using a extension bar and socket to drive swivel hub bearings home and using old bearing caps to drive the knew wheel bearing caps home. Then undo tail shaft (prop shaft) and tie up high with wire outa your way. I used a 17mm socket an breaker bar and a 17mm ring spanner and my trusty ol rubber mallet to belt (pursuade) the nuts loose hahaha doesnt hurt the fingies as much as a mash hammer if a miss occurs hahaha. Oil started leaking out as soon as i slightly dislodged the centre even though the oil has been drained. A couple of screw drivers to pry the centre out and the last foter the centre removed. NOW FOR A CAUTION THE CENTRE IS EFFEN HEAVY IF IT FALLS ON YOUR NOSE ITLL BE BUST WELL N TRUELY, I GOT ME SELF POSITIONED SO I COULD BRING ONTO MY CHEST CAUTION 2 I GOT A BIT OF PADDING ON ME, JOKES ASIDE ITS EFFEN HEAVY

growler2058
26th August 2011, 08:01 PM
Now for a brain teaser...... whats wrong with the 4th foter?? :-)

And foter 2 is a grease packed bearing, bit hard to take a foter of the process as i had grease from arsehol3 to breakfast hahahhahaha, Tony question how much grease should i pack into the hub (roughly)

Sir Roofy
26th August 2011, 08:30 PM
Now for a brain teaser...... whats wrong with the 4th foter?? :-)

And foter 2 is a grease packed bearing, bit hard to take a foter of the process as i had grease from arsehol3 to breakfast hahahhahaha, Tony question how much grease should i pack into the hub (roughly)

17mm spanner jamed on the tyerod arm

growler2058
26th August 2011, 08:32 PM
17mm spanner jamed on the tyerod arm

Closeish but not jammed

Woof
26th August 2011, 08:39 PM
Not only the 4th photo has a problem but so do all of the others............................................ ..where is the beer?????????

Sir Roofy
26th August 2011, 08:40 PM
Closeish but not jammed

breakerbar going wrong way

growler2058
26th August 2011, 08:50 PM
Not only the 4th photo has a problem but so do all of the others............................................ ..where is the beer?????????

CCn dry cans on a Friday night doggy spoil me self night btu the cans still on the bullbar at this stage thats a mutha to carry and a can hahahahah


breakerbar going wrong way

Yup I'm a d!ck head ay was tryin to tighten instead of loosen nearly popped a valve hahahahahaha

Sir Roofy
26th August 2011, 08:54 PM
CCn dry cans on a Friday night doggy spoil me self night btu the cans still on the bullbar at this stage thats a mutha to carry and a can hahahahah



Yup I'm a d!ck head ay was tryin to tighten instead of loosen nearly popped a valve hahahahahaha

not really you just forgot the beer pml

YNOT
26th August 2011, 09:17 PM
Now for a brain teaser...... whats wrong with the 4th foter?? :-)

And foter 2 is a grease packed bearing, bit hard to take a foter of the process as i had grease from arsehol3 to breakfast hahahhahaha, Tony question how much grease should i pack into the hub (roughly)

The main part of the bearing (the bit with the rollers) needs to be packed full of grease, the bearing cone needs a good smear of grease. As for the rest of the hub it doesn't really matter how much or little, I normally just put a light smear of grease in there to stop it rusting and catch any dust that might get in there. Put a light smear on the hub seals as well to lubricate the running surface.

Nice job so far, your work bench is just like mine.......needs a good tidy up.

Tony

growler2058
27th August 2011, 07:19 AM
I'll be using these instructions and the manual fouind on the forum

growler2058
27th August 2011, 08:48 PM
So breaker bar an rubber mallet (my favourite bashin thing), then i ve got the centre out. Ive followed the instructions in the pdf attach above. The shaft had visible wear but under 1.5 thou so no worries im rekon. The photo of the crown wheel bolts and threads and the 12v hammer gun, I rekon they were loktited in were hard as f!@k to get out this unit is sh1t hot a definate favourite. My pin punches werent long enough to knock the shaft lock pin out so used a small phillips head s/driver

growler2058
27th August 2011, 09:05 PM
had a bit of a brain fart and took a bit to read the instructions properly (theyre in effen small print) so took a while to work out how to get the pins and springs in :1087: and a couple of these :beer: probably werent helping. The act of getting the lokka in is piece of pi55. Following the instructions i greased relevant bits so they hold in position, then with the pins in the slotted groove stepped bit down i lifted into their correct location with a small screw driver then as ya can see in the fpters pushed the springs up n in very easy then just a case of putting back together exactly. Hence why i marked crown wheel and bearing carriers with liquid paper so's could realign, was a bit fiddly due to bulky heavy bloody thing (aligning the bearing carriers that is theyre grooved mountings and must go back exactly the same). Did i say how effen heavy the centre is complete, getting it back in was hard and a smater bloke may use a trolley jack to assist:1087: The third ta last foter is making sure u use the pin punch to dent over the shaft locking pin so it cant come out. And the last two are WTF are these bits left over now its all back together hahahahahahhahahahahahaha no longer required. Tomorrow axles back in wheels on WOO EFFEN HOOOOOOOO

growler2058
27th August 2011, 09:08 PM
Its not as concise as some of you guys posts I cant work out how the hell to place text between foters but if it aint clear yell out and i can explain a bit better......maybe hahahahhaha its back together the manual tests will be tomorrow then october long weekend down to loveday for a real test

Clunk
27th August 2011, 09:27 PM
superb stuff mate

04OFF
27th August 2011, 09:49 PM
While i would write and take pics perhaps a little different growlers, I think your doing a really fab job of it all, and considering you are pushed for time and takin pics with write ups as well, i know myself, when you are working away on a project, its hard to stop and go get the camera (normally having to wash hands) and then work out how to explain things etc.


Keep up the good work, just so long as Tony can see how easy it is :hpfredgeorge1:



Think im a bit excited for you getting to test it out soon !

growler2058
27th August 2011, 09:52 PM
Mate it IS easy as and Tony would probably knock on e of these out in an hour (including axle removal) Now ive done one i rekon i could also knock it out in the reccommended 2hrs no worries.

nowoolies
28th August 2011, 04:41 AM
CCn dry cans on a Friday night doggy spoil me self night btu the cans still on the bullbar at this stage thats a mutha to carry and a can hahahahah



Yup I'm a d!ck head ay was tryin to tighten instead of loosen nearly popped a valve hahahahahaha
Yup I'm a d!ck head ay was tryin to tighten instead of loosen nearly popped a valve hahahahahaha
as people are saying .....no beer hahahahahahahahaha

AB
28th August 2011, 08:22 AM
Nice write up and photos mate!

Bigrig
28th August 2011, 08:53 AM
Lovin it!! Good luck completing today and fingers crossed those "spares" weren't needed after all !!!! lmao

growler2058
28th August 2011, 11:03 AM
Drivers side nearly completed with hub n disc rotor back on and have come to a screeching halt!! Bubs has crashed out an i'm right by her bedroom window. If i wake her up wifey will get my balls outa the jar on her bedsise table and crush them with a sledge hammer haahahhhahahahahahahaa, THEN at lunchtime i gotta go to the outlaws aunties bday OH JOY and i say that sincerely hahaha sooooo will be flat out when i get back.
On a serious note pay close attention to Tonys cv post and make sure you get all washers and spacers in the first time so's your not pulling things apart again:oops: not a big oops i found the extra spacer early hehehe.

04OFF
28th August 2011, 11:55 AM
I feel a bit sorry for the people at that birthday party, "patrol diffs" is ALL the're going to hearing about ,hahaahhaa !:bowdown:

growler2058
28th August 2011, 11:59 AM
Yup I'll be trying to hint that i really need to get going and then wife will death stare me and i'll behave for another 5 minutes hahahahhahahaha

The LoKKas are on special at the moment for $399 which if it passes the Loveday test I think is a BARGAIN I left forum cards there on their counter as well so hopefully we get a few more members from that

04OFF
28th August 2011, 12:12 PM
The LoKKas are on special at the moment for $399 which if it passes the Loveday test I think is a BARGAIN I left forum cards there on their counter as well so hopefully we get a few more members from that

$399, Thats a great price, where exactly is that from mate ?

growler2058
28th August 2011, 12:42 PM
4Wd systems in Adelaide Goannawhere products www.4wdsystems.com.au ph (08) 8369 0033 fax (08) 8261 5158 and im not affilliated in any way :-)

Silver
28th August 2011, 02:46 PM
Drivers side nearly completed with hub n disc rotor back on and have come to a screeching halt!! Bubs has crashed out an i'm right by her bedroom window. If i wake her up wifey will get my balls outa the jar on her bedsise table and crush them with a sledge hammer haahahhhahahahahahahaa, THEN at lunchtime i gotta go to the outlaws aunties bday OH JOY and i say that sincerely hahaha sooooo will be flat out when i get back.
On a serious note pay close attention to Tonys cv post and make sure you get all washers and spacers in the first time so's your not pulling things apart again:oops: not a big oops i found the extra spacer early hehehe.

Those washers are tricky, and the swivel hub seals require close attention too :-) Re the Nippers - we trained ours to go to sleep with the CD player on or off, and if on, on fairly loud. She has Redgum subliminally imprinted, along with various 60's + songs :-)

timbar
28th August 2011, 02:58 PM
Those washers are tricky, and the swivel hub seals require close attention too :-) Re the Nippers - we trained ours to go to sleep with the CD player on or off, and if on, on fairly loud. She has Redgum subliminally imprinted, along with various 60's + songs :-)

never been quiet for any of my kiddies sleeping you could set a bomb off in their bedroom and they still wouldnt wake up !!!

timbar
28th August 2011, 03:00 PM
Sorry Growlers bit of a Hijack there what i meant to say was How you doing with the lokka .....easy job ?

growler2058
28th August 2011, 06:44 PM
Mate i love a hijack it can help to spin a good yarn haahahahahha got issues at the moment, not with the lokka but final assembly grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr foters to come

growler2058
28th August 2011, 07:01 PM
Can't get this bit to go on far enough to get the circlip on, you can see the stepped spacer behin just wont go in far enough. I took the hub off pulled the bearings out tried to drive the cups in further, no go so cant think what else would stopem from seating properly Help Tony hahaha:-0

growler2058
28th August 2011, 07:07 PM
I think i just worked it out. The spline has some outward movement and i just got the millimetre i needed, its too dark to see but can feel the groove with my thumbnail

YNOT
28th August 2011, 07:14 PM
I think i just worked it out. The spline has some outward movement and i just got the millimetre i needed, its too dark to see but can feel the groove with my thumbnail

You beat me to it, that's what I was going to suggest.

Tony

timbar
28th August 2011, 07:44 PM
all Good mate ???? back together ?? whens the big test ??????

growler2058
28th August 2011, 07:58 PM
all Good mate ???? back together ?? whens the big test ??????

Will be tomorrow ran outa light today mate damn:-)

timbar
28th August 2011, 08:01 PM
Will be tomorrow ran outa light today mate damn:-)

its all back together or are you finishing it tomorrow ???

growler2058
28th August 2011, 08:05 PM
Will finish tomorrow had to go to a 70th that went a bit onger than expected

nowoolies
28th August 2011, 09:31 PM
enjoy the 70 th
more fun than fitting the locka hahahahah....roflmfao

growler2058
29th August 2011, 05:14 AM
enjoy the 70 th
more fun than fitting the locka hahahahah....roflmfao

Wasn't too bad but woulda preferred to be putting the rig back together

big_fletch
29th August 2011, 09:19 PM
Growlers after watching you install this lokka im thinking i should get one, im already halfway there as i have front diff stripped already cause im doing CV's and swivel hubs.. I can feel you twisting my arm from over there in SA!! LMFAO

YNOT
29th August 2011, 09:57 PM
Growlers after watching you install this lokka im thinking i should get one, im already halfway there as i have front diff stripped already cause im doing CV's and swivel hubs.. I can feel you twisting my arm from over there in SA!! LMFAO

You should be feeling some arm twisting from the north as well!

Tony

big_fletch
29th August 2011, 10:06 PM
haha yer i can dont worry, would save me the hassle of pulling front diff apart again.. Thinking i might get a Powertrax Lock-Right for the front of mine

04OFF
30th August 2011, 12:16 AM
Thinking i might get a Powertrax Lock-Right for the front of mine

Interesting, any particular reason you want the american one ?


The Lokka (AU) one is good value if you can get one for $399, doubt you will save that much $$ importing a powertrax from the US ? (but havent ordered mine yet so please let me know)

Ive yet to read any hard evidence one is actually better/stronger than the other, the weakest point in both units appears to be the small springs/pins, and neither brand seems more or less susceptible to failure in this area.

The AU one has a 3yr warranty, the US has 2yr warranty.

GUte
30th August 2011, 01:10 AM
I have a lockright in mine and im very happy with it.
The reason I went down that path was at the time, 4WD Systems had a backlog of around 6 weeks for their lokka and a $150 higher price tag.

Got mine from toptraction.com.au for around $400 delivered so its around the same at the reduced price of the Lokka, I think they are realising this now which is good.

If they're both in stock and around the same price, I would probably go with the Lokka as its Australian made. They are the same design and both very well made so its just a matter of personal choice, availability, price etc

04OFF
30th August 2011, 01:32 AM
I have a lockright in mine and im very happy with it.
The reason I went down that path was at the time, 4WD Systems had a backlog of around 6 weeks for their lokka and a $150 higher price tag.

Got mine from toptraction.com.au for around $400 delivered so its around the same at the reduced price of the Lokka, I think they are realising this now which is good.

If they're both in stock and around the same price, I would probably go with the Lokka as its Australian made. They are the same design and both very well made so its just a matter of personal choice, availability, price etc






I would have done that if i was you ^


Top traction has them @ $425 free delivery, so $399 + delivery from 4wd systems could workout about the same cost ?

Yes, i suspect they are almost the same thing, just depends on what brand you heard get appraised or bagged first i guess, i cant find any real evidence one way or the other ............. probly both made somewhere in china anyway (ha-ha)

growler2058
30th August 2011, 05:27 AM
I paid for mine up front and the bloke (Dave) said they were flat out with them and thought it may be a two week wAit but I got in 5 days but I did pick up final test tomorrow but I'm confident alls good

big_fletch
30th August 2011, 08:50 AM
Can't wait to hear the test report growlers, hurry up buddy lol..

I can get a lock-right delivered for about $370, the only reason I was going to go lock-right is because I have been reading that they are stronger than the lokka, weather or not this is a true fact I'm not sure

Sir Roofy
30th August 2011, 09:47 AM
Can't wait to hear the test report growlers, hurry up buddy lol..

I can get a lock-right delivered for about $370, the only reason I was going to go lock-right is because I have been reading that they are stronger than the lokka, weather or not this is a true fact I'm not sure

fletcha what are doing man--the troll is tough enough now,put lockers in and youll go places you shouldnt

big_fletch
30th August 2011, 10:09 AM
fletcha what are doing man--the troll is tough enough now,put lockers in and youll go places you shouldnt

Yer, but I will also get everywhere I'm getting now with less strain on car, and less tearing up of track from wheels spinning... Not that I do that lol

Sir Roofy
30th August 2011, 10:17 AM
Yer, but I will also get everywhere I'm getting now with less strain on car, and less tearing up of track from wheels spinning... Not that I do that lol

hey big guy just drive slower --lol-- on the w/end at talbotville mate was all autos steep rocky had a ball /no lockers

04OFF
30th August 2011, 11:12 AM
I can get a lock-right delivered for about $370, the only reason I was going to go lock-right is because I have been reading that they are stronger than the lokka, weather or not this is a true fact I'm not sure

May i ask where you can obtain one for $370 inc del , thats sounds good.


I too have read people say US one is made from stronger metal (but with no evidence at all to support claims), ive only ever hear of pins and springs breaking, and google shows heaps of US ones have failed over in the US.

Very hard to compare numbers between AU and US, with the difference in population and sales etc, but all people ive read about with broken AU ones , seem to have been given free replacement parts , not that that helps you pull the diff apart to replace them.




Yer, but I will also get everywhere I'm getting now with less strain on car, and less tearing up of track from wheels spinning... Not that I do that lol

Yes, id have to agree, the difference even just a front locker can make, is quite amazing in some situations ive seen.

AB
30th August 2011, 02:06 PM
Yer, but I will also get everywhere I'm getting now with less strain on car, and less tearing up of track from wheels spinning... Not that I do that lol

Just FYI Fletcha, sometimes lokkas will make no difference whats so ever on the slippery red clay.

Remember that steep hill you guys couldn't get up at Toolangi and you almost soiled yourself.

Warnie couldn't get up with his lokkas either. Instead of one wheel spinning you just have both...lol

Thats only in 10% of the situations though....lol.

growler2058
30th August 2011, 02:11 PM
Just FYI Fletcha, sometimes lokkas will make no difference whats so ever on the slippery red clay.

Remember that steep hill you guys couldn't get up at Toolangi and you almost soiled yourself.

Warnie couldn't get up with his lokkas either. Instead of one wheel spinning you just have both...lol

Thats only in 10% of the situations though....lol.


AHHH But twin front wheel rooster tails woo hoo

timbar
30th August 2011, 03:21 PM
Just FYI Fletcha, sometimes lokkas will make no difference whats so ever on the slippery red clay.

Remember that steep hill you guys couldn't get up at Toolangi and you almost soiled yourself.

Warnie couldn't get up with his lokkas either. Instead of one wheel spinning you just have both...lol

Thats only in 10% of the situations though....lol.

Still with Lokka s doubles your chances for traction so its gotta help hahahaha

growler2058
30th August 2011, 08:29 PM
The best foter of Agatha in a LOOOOOOOOOOOOONNNNNG time7687 and so far so good the test seems good it unlocks and locks very easily hope it's meant to be that easy :-)
NOTE: Cheap made in Taiwan oil pumps for diff/gearbox oils are SH1T!!! It's been used four times and is shagged leakin oil from the back of it all down me arms and everybloodywhere Spend the $'s and get a good one

big_fletch
30th August 2011, 08:57 PM
May i ask where you can obtain one for $370 inc del , thats sounds good.


I too have read people say US one is made from stronger metal (but with no evidence at all to support claims), ive only ever hear of pins and springs breaking, and google shows heaps of US ones have failed over in the US.

Very hard to compare numbers between AU and US, with the difference in population and sales etc, but all people ive read about with broken AU ones , seem to have been given free replacement parts , not that that helps you pull the diff apart to replace them.





Yes, id have to agree, the difference even just a front locker can make, is quite amazing in some situations ive seen.

Yes i do agree it is probably very hard to compare one to the other, when as you say there are so many Lock-rights sold in the US.. In saying that if your not using your troll as a comp rig and doing insane stuff all the time there is no reason they shouldn't last several years.. I got a quote from Justdifferentials.com couple weeks back for that lock-right delevered, wouldn't see why it wouldn't still be that price

Fletcha

P.S cant wait to see some pics of this Lokka in action Growlers lol

04OFF
3rd September 2011, 08:07 PM
P.S cant wait to see some pics of this Lokka in action Growlers lol


Yes..... so whats the verdict growlers ? :)


Did you order one yet fletch ?

big_fletch
3rd September 2011, 08:14 PM
Yes..... so whats the verdict growlers ? :)


Did you order one yet fletch ?

Nah i ended up buying a winch, will get a locker soon though.. Got a revised quote from Just Differentials on Thursday so you know as well, USD $380 Delivered (which is $356 AUS with current xchange rates)....
Thats a pretty good price in my books if your still interested in getting one

growler2058
3rd September 2011, 08:25 PM
The hand (manual0 test works a treat one finger on the opposing wheel ur turning an it slips as itrs meant ta so octr long weekend down to loveday for a real world test

big_fletch
3rd September 2011, 08:29 PM
The hand (manual0 test works a treat one finger on the opposing wheel ur turning an it slips as itrs meant ta so octr long weekend down to loveday for a real world test

Cant wait for some pics and Vids Growlers!!

growler2058
3rd October 2011, 09:22 PM
THE LOKKA WAS FREAKIN BL00DY AWESOME

By far the best freekin $400 I've ever spent absolutely stoked. Vids to come later heres a foter for now

frenzy
3rd October 2011, 10:55 PM
woohoo! looking forward to the vids! well done.

growler2058
5th October 2011, 07:32 AM
Ok my excitement has subsided a bit, so now I'll tell ya a bit about this AWESOME traction aid.
Hubs engaged and in 2wd you can hear it clicking at slow tight turns.
4WD high same can hear clicking whilst turning tight.
No noticeable effect driving on dirt/sand in H4 even at speed.
4 low in 3rd and 4th definately get a bit of torque steer when changing gear or accelerating on and off. (At speed on flat dirt road 40km and above)
Making it work on steep hills in low didnt notice clicking, but could feel the wheel was a bit heavier to turn. Rekon the power steer cooler Ben was gunna install is probably a good idea.
BANG FOR BUCK ABSOLUTELY IMHO

Ben-e-boy
5th October 2011, 11:52 AM
Ok my excitement has subsided a bit, so now I'll tell ya a bit about this AWESOME traction aid.
Hubs engaged and in 2wd you can hear it clicking at slow tight turns.
4WD high same can hear clicking whilst turning tight.
No noticeable effect driving on dirt/sand in H4 even at speed.
4 low in 3rd and 4th definately get a bit of torque steer when changing gear or accelerating on and off. (At speed on flat dirt road 40km and above)
Making it work on steep hills in low didnt notice clicking, but could feel the wheel was a bit heavier to turn. Rekon the power steer cooler Ben was gunna install is probably a good idea.
BANG FOR BUCK ABSOLUTELY IMHO

63 bucks of fleabay. i'll post up some piccies after the weekend

cossack
19th December 2011, 06:00 PM
taken my lokka out, as it was put in without shimming etc. ( Can't say on here who put it in ) causing DRAMAS? Front auto hubs ( changed to manual ) and transfer case bearing needed replacing, $ 1500. Have been told " unsure if the lokka was the main source of the problem" Finally sorted!!!!!!!!!!!!!

growler2058
19th December 2011, 08:02 PM
taken my lokka out, as it was put in without shimming etc. ( Can't say on here who put it in ) causing DRAMAS? Front auto hubs ( changed to manual ) and transfer case bearing needed replacing, $ 1500. Have been told " unsure if the lokka was the main source of the problem" Finally sorted!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Front or back diff mate? My understanding is no shimming required on the front

gu radelaide
1st January 2012, 05:31 PM
i like the way they say "if u can change ya brake pads u can fit a lokka" little bit more involved than pad change, good writeup but very useful

growler2058
1st January 2012, 06:53 PM
i like the way they say "if u can change ya brake pads u can fit a lokka" little bit more involved than pad change, good writeup but very useful

Its just a hell of a lot messier than changing pads :-)

gu radelaide
2nd January 2012, 01:16 PM
i have one sittin here 4 a GQ never got round to fittin it , will it fit a GU

growler2058
2nd January 2012, 01:43 PM
i have one sittin here 4 a GQ never got round to fittin it , will it fit a GU

Yes i believe they are exactly the same a quick call to 4wd systems would confirm though i am 99.9% sure theyre the same

Robo
4th January 2012, 12:55 PM
Thanks for this usefull read.
I see alot of work on cars at home that we enthusiast could do the work faster and easyer.
Get your self a press, around $300 you say to much well they do come cheaper , but could be to small. and lets face it, youre saving a heap doing it yourself anyway.
And if your like me and more than 1 car and the work can be done at home hopefull when it suits you're own timeframe.
I recon my investment has paid for it self. and more to do still I bet.
Swivel hubs and wheelbearing , charged $100 an hr for mechanic, or just to save youself alot of time and effort or running around to get em pressed on/off.
you get the idea.
TIP, keep old parts removed as they become usefull dies/adapters, cleand modified etc.
Anyway, thanks again

WhiteGU
9th January 2012, 07:54 PM
New year's resolution - get a lock :)

I have a Lock Right 3210-LR sitting on by desk as I type, $399 delivered from AU seller. Considereed the Lokka, but no stock. (Why doesn't 4WD Systems have a web store???)

So I've got a bit of a job ahead of me :) While the front end is apart I'll fit new pads A1RM from here http://www.qfmperformance.com/ (rears too) and will bleed system through with Super DOT4. Not happy with the brakes as they are.

Thanks for this write-up, and Tony's front end write-up, I'm happy to have a go at the job.

growler2058
9th January 2012, 07:58 PM
Its a pretty easy thing to fit, the hardest part is remembering how the axles, bearings and swivel hubs go back together :-)

WhiteGU
15th January 2012, 07:37 PM
So, I'm a happy little vegemite, as they say :)

Stripped down the front end, and removed the diff. Someone mentioned it was heavy - it is......

Put it on the bench, pulled it apart, and installed the Lock Right pieces. Put it all back together and then put it back into the car. This time I'm sure it was heavier :)

I finally managed to lift it into place using my mini Hitch Master hoist that I'd bought at a show eons ago, thinking "that will come in handy one day" - it did. There's a convenient bracket with hole on the chassis rail right above the diff, and there's a bolt that holds the brake fitting onto the diff at the top. Then there was just enough space to hoist the diff up and install it.

On disassembling the front end I noticed that the caster correction bushes were beginning to chew out again, dammit, so I decided to get drop boxes. These went in and the standard Nissan radius bushes went back in. I've only got 3" lift, and the drop boxes give 4" arm drop, so I've gained an extra degree of caster over factory setting. This is noticeable, giving me more rtc and slightly heavier feel. Bump absorption is now vastly better. Sway bar won't go back on, so I'm running without it at the moment, doesn't seem to make a lot of difference.

I'm now chomping at the bit to test the locked front. Australia day weekend in the High Country is where it will get its first tryout.

Thanks again to the OP for the instructions.

growler2058
15th January 2012, 10:28 PM
Mate gotta love the auto lockers (i Do) my GQ is a pov pak and didnt come with a front swaybar so i dont think itll be an issue for you either

fabbio
21st January 2012, 03:05 AM
I was going to save for an air locker, but if this is so good, i could get my turbo sooner if I went this way. Does it reduce your turning circle by much?

growler2058
21st January 2012, 06:42 AM
I was going to save for an air locker, but if this is so good, i could get my turbo sooner if I went this way. Does it reduce your turning circle by much?

In two wheel drive absolutely no difference to steering at all. In 4wd turning circle is larger with or without a locker. I'll try post a vid up in this thread later today or tomorrow of driving a tight sandy track and my dodgy commentary with it :-) I found no issues at all

growler2058
21st January 2012, 05:58 PM
Dodgy commentry on a windy sandy track with the LOKKA Click on the image to play
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z428/GrowlersGQ/Loveday%20Jan2012/th_SteeringWithLokka.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z428/GrowlersGQ/Loveday%20Jan2012/?action=view&current=SteeringWithLokka.mp4)

Ben-e-boy
22nd January 2012, 05:47 PM
I was going to save for an air locker, but if this is so good, i could get my turbo sooner if I went this way. Does it reduce your turning circle by much?

I have a auto locker in my ute and I dont think my turning circle is worse. I have got the ute into some tight spots

simy
10th March 2012, 03:09 PM
If you don't do this yourself how much is a reasonable amount for a mechanic to charge? i was quoted $600 and there is no way i am paying that. I'm good with building stuff with wood but am almost mechanically retarded excepting general vehicle maintenance

Bigrig
10th March 2012, 03:34 PM
If you don't do this yourself how much is a reasonable amount for a mechanic to charge? i was quoted $600 and there is no way i am paying that. I'm good with building stuff with wood but am almost mechanically retarded excepting general vehicle maintenance

No way mate, it's a $200-300 job with someone who knows what they're doing ... 3-4 hours.

Where are you based? We could recommend some places.

growler2058
10th March 2012, 05:48 PM
If you don't do this yourself how much is a reasonable amount for a mechanic to charge? i was quoted $600 and there is no way i am paying that. I'm good with building stuff with wood but am almost mechanically retarded excepting general vehicle maintenance

I would think $400 tops

Bigrig
10th March 2012, 06:09 PM
I would think $400 tops

True mate, absolute tops ...

simy
11th March 2012, 10:46 PM
No way mate, it's a $200-300 job with someone who knows what they're doing ... 3-4 hours.

Where are you based? We could recommend some places.

I'm in Townsville, we get absolutely ripped here. A good example is my 3" lift with castor correction. i supplied the parts and only two shops in the whole town would fit the lift. i ended up paying $550 to have it installed. I will ring a few more places tomorrow, most places don't want to do the job

growler2058
11th March 2012, 10:52 PM
It is a fairly easy job mate trawl through some threads here there are some great pictorials. Try searching replacing swivel hub seals and look for Ynot's thread