Rear Recovery Point in Tow Hitch

[satyx]

I have a question regarding the recovery points like the one below used in tow hitches. I was ready to buy one untill my old man pointed something out. The point is held in the hitch by the pin, so why not use the pin to hold the stap, ie feed the loop into the hitch and lock it inplace with the pin. Ive seen him do this before so it has made me wonder what the benifits of the recovery point is?

[satyx]

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j415/satyx2401/rearhitch.jpg

[Bob]

I have a question regarding the recovery points like the one below used in tow hitches. I was ready to buy one untill my old man pointed something out. The point is held in the hitch by the pin, so why not use the pin to hold the stap, ie feed the loop into the hitch and lock it inplace with the pin. Ive seen him do this before so it has made me wonder what the benifits of the recovery point is?

I always use that method when snatching someone.

[Bigrig]

Using the pin is sort of ok except for two reasons:

1. The strap around the pin is smaller in width on the pin than a recovery hitch, hence placing greater strain on the pin across a smaller surface area
2. Further to point 1, in doing so, you run the very real prospect of bending the pin in the tow receiver - ever tried to get one out that's bent?? Be bloody hard mate.

The recovery hitch is solid through the centre where the pin goes and places surface area strain across the pin equally from side to side and having the snatch rope attached to the bow shackle allows slight angled movement of the snatch from side to side (if not a dead straight recovery) without placing too much strain directly on the pin and tow receiver.

Add to that trying to attach a snatch strap to a receiver pin whilst you waist deep in water and/or mud - no fun!! Far easier to a recovery hitch.

I'm sure there's a more scientific reason, however that's my philosophy and I personally never use just the pin - $50 for a recovery hitch is money well spent.

[satyx]

Using the pin is sort of ok except for two reasons:

1. The strap around the pin is smaller in width on the pin than a recovery hitch, hence placing greater strain on the pin across a smaller surface area
2. Further to point 1, in doing so, you run the very real prospect of bending the pin in the tow receiver - ever tried to get one out that's bent?? Be bloody hard mate.

The recovery hitch is solid through the centre where the pin goes and places surface area strain across the pin equally from side to side and having the snatch rope attached to the bow shackle allows slight angled movement of the snatch from side to side (if not a dead straight recovery) without placing too much strain directly on the pin and tow receiver.

Add to that trying to attach a snatch strap to a receiver pin whilst you waist deep in water and/or mud - no fun!! Far easier to a recovery hitch.

I'm sure there's a more scientific reason, however that's my philosophy and I personally never use just the pin - $50 for a recovery hitch is money well spent.

See thats why this fourm is gold. I knew there had to be a good reason for them to be available, I had thought of the side to side movement of the strap, but the old man just said "every snatch should be straight on". The contact surface of the pin and strap v pin and block makes sense. Ill slip that one if he coments about it. lol. Thanks BigRig

[Bigrig]

See thats why this fourm is gold. I knew there had to be a good reason for them to be available, I had thought of the side to side movement of the strap, but the old man just said "every snatch should be straight on". The contact surface of the pin and strap v pin and block makes sense. Ill slip that one if he coments about it. lol. Thanks BigRig

Pleasure mate - slip this one in also - when Haymen Reece invented his tow assembly and receiver, he did it with "towing" in mind and subsequently the pin is meant to have load spread on it and generally speaking, those loads (towing) are substantially less force than an attached snatch strap recovery. Spreading the load by using appropriate equipment might seem an overkill, however if it means being able to use something that was designed for another use (towing), then what is $50 in the scheme of things??

A bent pin (or worse, a complete snap or separation) versus $50 ...

[Chappa]

Also ever tried hooking a winch hook over the pin in the reciever not going to happen, just alot more versatile i reckon.

[04OFF]

I just removed my tow "ball", and found a 4.7T rated bow shackle pin fits in the remaining tounge hole perfect ($15 Total)

And you only need keep the "towball" (and a spanner) in the car should you need to convert it back to a standard towball (instead of a complete tounge and ball)





The problem often overlooked, is with regard for the car you are recovering (or thats recovering you) , you may have a strong tow point, but if their "weaker" tow point breaks, its ALL coming YOUR way !

I keep a towball spanner and a spare 4.7T Bow shackle in my car, this way, i can easily convert anyones towbar into a safe recovery point in the same manner, should the situation arise.

[Sir Roofy]

All points of recovery are good here
but for my money i like the hitch reciever most
its solid and very little wear points on the bow shackle
as well

[BillsGU]

One point you are missing is that the HR bar is not rated for snatching. It is generally accepted in the 4WD world that a properly fitted HR bar (with high tensile rated bolts) is suitable for recovery - but you will never get it on paper from Hayman Reece.

The fact is that every time you introduce another link in the recovery chain you are introducing another place where something can go wrong. These adaptors (the ones I have seen) are well made, but they are welded (which can let go) and you are then also introducing a shackle (is it rated or a cheapie from China / India?).

When using this adaptor the force of the recovery is not spread over the entire length of the pin - it is focused on the holes in the HR bar and the holes in the adaptor (much like a shearing action happening on the pin).

I have never used an adaptor - I always feed the loop of the strap into the HR hole and feed the pin through it.

I have done dozens (maybe hundreds?!) of snatches in the course of the Off Road Training and Recovery courses that I have conducted and I have never seen a pin bend or break. I have however seen a couple of shackles distort to the point where they are difficult to undo.

Lastly - the adaptor is another heavy lump of metal floating around in the back of the car.

Just my two bobs worth.

[nowoolies]

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j415/satyx2401/rearhitch.jpg

this is the only way to go .....imho

[Sir Roofy]

and worth while

[04OFF]

One point you are missing is that the HR bar is not rated for snatching. It is generally accepted in the 4WD world that a properly fitted HR bar (with high tensile rated bolts) is suitable for recovery - but you will never get it on paper from Hayman Reece..

True, but I doubt you will find Nissan actually "rate" any parts or hooks on a patrol when used for snatching, but at least the towbar has a placard with some sort of maximum rated capacity for towing.





When using this adaptor the force of the recovery is not spread over the entire length of the pin - it is focused on the holes in the HR bar and the holes in the adaptor (much like a shearing action happening on the pin)..

Im no engineer Bill, but id have thought It would be much harder to cut straight through (or sheer through) the pin in two places, rather than just bend it.

[Chappa]

And if you have a heavy duty strap such as ARB 11000Lb they wont fit staight into a reciever anyway.

[the ferret]

I just removed my tow "ball", and found a 4.7T rated bow shackle pin fits in the remaining tounge hole perfect ($15 Total)

And you only need keep the "towball" (and a spanner) in the car should you need to convert it back to a standard towball (instead of a complete tounge and ball)





The problem often overlooked, is with regard for the car you are recovering (or thats recovering you) , you may have a strong tow point, but if their "weaker" tow point breaks, its ALL coming YOUR way !

I keep a towball spanner and a spare 4.7T Bow shackle in my car, this way, i can easily convert anyones towbar into a safe recovery point in the same manner, should the situation arise.

NUP, forget that one mate, a young bloke was killed not too long ago, he was snatching off the towball,(deadly idea) but the tongue came away from the box section and the poor bloke wore the tongue AND towball combined.( weld broke on genuine Toyota towbar)
There is no way I would let anyone snatch me with that method. (shackle to tongue)
My advice to you as an experienced bushman who has seen most of it, would be to outlay a lousy $50, it may just save your life or someone elses one day. GET ONE!!

[Silver]

Using the pin is sort of ok except for two reasons:

1. The strap around the pin is smaller in width on the pin than a recovery hitch, hence placing greater strain on the pin across a smaller surface area
2. Further to point 1, in doing so, you run the very real prospect of bending the pin in the tow receiver - ever tried to get one out that's bent?? Be bloody hard mate.

The recovery hitch is solid through the centre where the pin goes and places surface area strain across the pin equally from side to side and having the snatch rope attached to the bow shackle allows slight angled movement of the snatch from side to side (if not a dead straight recovery) without placing too much strain directly on the pin and tow receiver.

Add to that trying to attach a snatch strap to a receiver pin whilst you waist deep in water and/or mud - no fun!! Far easier to a recovery hitch.

I'm sure there's a more scientific reason, however that's my philosophy and I personally never use just the pin - $50 for a recovery hitch is money well spent.

ever bent the 16mm pin Big Rig? (I confess I have the billet and shackle arrangement :-) )

[Silver]

Pleasure mate - slip this one in also - when Haymen Reece invented his tow assembly and receiver, he did it with "towing" in mind and subsequently the pin is meant to have load spread on it and generally speaking, those loads (towing) are substantially less force than an attached snatch strap recovery. Spreading the load by using appropriate equipment might seem an overkill, however if it means being able to use something that was designed for another use (towing), then what is $50 in the scheme of things??

A bent pin (or worse, a complete snap or separation) versus $50 ...

me again, feeling feisty tonight. Who knows how well the shackle is designed to cope with side loads with the bolt component captive, and not free to swivel to meet the load? :-) (and yes, I still have one of the billet and shackle jobs :-) )

[Silver]

I just removed my tow "ball", and found a 4.7T rated bow shackle pin fits in the remaining tounge hole perfect ($15 Total)

And you only need keep the "towball" (and a spanner) in the car should you need to convert it back to a standard towball (instead of a complete tounge and ball)

The problem often overlooked, is with regard for the car you are recovering (or thats recovering you) , you may have a strong tow point, but if their "weaker" tow point breaks, its ALL coming YOUR way !

I keep a towball spanner and a spare 4.7T Bow shackle in my car, this way, i can easily convert anyones towbar into a safe recovery point in the same manner, should the situation arise.

check for rust or other damage inside the square hollow section where it is welded to the 'tongue' bit.

[Silver]

this is the only way to go .....imho

agree that is your opinion nowoolies, but not necessarily with your opinion :-) But I do have one of those billet and shackle jobs

[the ferret]

And ya can forget this one too, anyone who sells these has no concience, this can rip the towball off and send that and the shackle at 300ks/hr in one side of your head and out the other, through the back window and another 60 meters, then it will stop, hit the ground and then others will see some of your BRAINS fall off.
I suggest anyone looking at recovery hooks, shackles, straps and towing eyes, to do some research on this forum and any others where you can find the info needed to make a safe purchase.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/towballshackle.jpg

[Silver]

And if you have a heavy duty strap such as ARB 11000Lb they wont fit staight into a reciever anyway.

And there is the crux of the problem, a snatch strap rated to fail at 11000lb.......... hmmmmm, thought that was going to be 11 000 kg :-) Anyhooo, that is the crux of the problem. Snatch straps used to be rated to fail at 2000kg. Now the common ones are rated to fail at 5,000 or 8,000 kgs. Some are 11 tonnes or more.

Snatch straps are relatively light and relatively soft. They are probably pretty dangerous by themselves. They can be very dangerous launching something else that is heavy and hard.

If something has to fail I'd rather it be the strap, and not a shackle, a tow point, a bullbar, a tow bar, a recovery point or a chassis.

Just my opinion. My practical solution is to fit after market front points to our GQ in place of the factory single front hook, to spread the load to both rails (important in my view), and to buy the billet and shackle, as well as a plain steel pin. I only intend to do moderate snatches as either snatcher or snatchee, otherwise more digging and maybe some winching.

My set up is intended to make the other party happy. Likewise if I am recovering someone else, I will be happy that:
-I am not going to wear any part of their vehicle
-there is a clear understanding of who pays if either vehicle or the gear gets damaged
-they have some genuine understanding of the risks.

I fully expect that this will mean some people I meet that have failed to proceed will be paying for a commercial recovery. It has not been my experience so far, but evidence on this forum and elsewhere is that the ill prepared are also the ill inclined to put their hand in their pocket or help pack and clean up, when something gets broken recovering their vehicle.

As I said, grumpy tonight :-)

[Silver]

NUP, forget that one mate, a young bloke was killed not too long ago, he was snatching off the towball,(deadly idea) but the tongue came away from the box section and the poor bloke wore the tongue AND towball combined.( weld broke on genuine Toyota towbar)
There is no way I would let anyone snatch me with that method. (shackle to tongue)
My advice to you as an experienced bushman who has seen most of it, would be to outlay a lousy $50, it may just save your life or someone elses one day. GET ONE!!

G'day ferret, 04OFF isn't using the ball, just the removable tongue. One of those removable tongues failed in Tasmania a couple of years ago and killed a young bloke in a third vehicle. Rust in the weld between tube and tongue. That bloke was killed by the tow ball and the tongue part of the removable hitch - Crikey, I've just realised we agree :-)

[the ferret]

One point you are missing is that the HR bar is not rated for snatching. It is generally accepted in the 4WD world that a properly fitted HR bar (with high tensile rated bolts) is suitable for recovery - but you will never get it on paper from Hayman Reece.

The fact is that every time you introduce another link in the recovery chain you are introducing another place where something can go wrong. These adaptors (the ones I have seen) are well made, but they are welded (which can let go) and you are then also introducing a shackle (is it rated or a cheapie from China / India?).

When using this adaptor the force of the recovery is not spread over the entire length of the pin - it is focused on the holes in the HR bar and the holes in the adaptor (much like a shearing action happening on the pin).

I have never used an adaptor - I always feed the loop of the strap into the HR hole and feed the pin through it.

I have done dozens (maybe hundreds?!) of snatches in the course of the Off Road Training and Recovery courses that I have conducted and I have never seen a pin bend or break. I have however seen a couple of shackles distort to the point where they are difficult to undo.

Lastly - the adaptor is another heavy lump of metal floating around in the back of the car.

Just my two bobs worth.

The pin will bend before it sheers.
Anything as heavy as an adaptor should not be "floating around in the back of a car" end of story.

[the evil twin]

I know how to solve or eliminate every single issue mentioned so far... Don't use a Snatch Strap. :animierte-smilies-f

Very old school thinking on my part I know but... Pffft... has worked for me to date. I reckon of all the Snatch Recoveries I have witnessed at least 90% did not , indeed should not have involved using a Snatch Strap.

Probably 50% of the time the dude could drive the mired vehicle out if they got their fat butt outa the drivers seat and grabbed a shovel.

E.T. dons flame suit and heads for... uuummmm... Argentina might be just far enough :smile:

[04OFF]

NUP, forget that one mate, a young bloke was killed not too long ago, he was snatching off the towball,(deadly idea) but the tongue came away from the box section and the poor bloke wore the tongue AND towball combined.( weld broke on genuine Toyota towbar)
There is no way I would let anyone snatch me with that method. (shackle to tongue)
My advice to you as an experienced bushman who has seen most of it, would be to outlay a lousy $50, it may just save your life or someone elses one day. GET ONE!!

I assume you are talking about Josh Stein ?


The Coroner reported.........






Even though The towbar as marked on the identification plate is a genuine Toyota accessory.


The ball coupling that failed is regarded as being NON-GENUINE. The design is vulnerable to corrosion and fatigue. There is some indication of poor quality welding. The internal services of the RHS appear to have had no protective coating.







Who knows what or where the bit that failed was made, and looks like not a tested Toyota bit that failed, but yes $50 is not that much to spend, but are you going to keep a spare to fit into other peoples cars so bits dont come flying your way ?

[04OFF]

We all go on about ratings.....


I just wonder (and i dont really know) but how many of these aftermarket hitch recievers actually have a visable tagged/stamped rating ?, anyone can machine up a bit of metal and shove in a rated shackle, sure they may know it wont break, but does that really make it a "rated" reciever ?

The Bow shackle itself is clearly a seperatly "rated" item, but surley without a embossed or stamped rating on the reciever bit, its just a hunk of metal with a unknown load tested rating ?



Perhaps those that have one , could look to see if the metal block is actually "rated" on these type of aftermarket recievers ?

[Bob]

I know how to solve or eliminate every single issue mentioned so far... Don't use a Snatch Strap. :animierte-smilies-f

Very old school thinking on my part I know but... Pffft... has worked for me to date. I reckon of all the Snatch Recoveries I have witnessed at least 90% did not , indeed should not have involved using a Snatch Strap.

Probably 50% of the time the dude could drive the mired vehicle out if they got their fat butt outa the drivers seat and grabbed a shovel.

E.T. dons flame suit and heads for... uuummmm... Argentina might be just far enough :smile:

i AGREE WITH YOU ON THIS EVIL.
I ALSO CARRY A DRAG CHAIN WHICH I USE IN PREFERENCE TO A SNATCH STRAP.
IF ANYTHING BREAKS(WHICH HAS NOT HAPPENED SO FAR) THE CHAIN WILL JUST FALL TO THE GROUND WITH THE PART THAT HAS BROKEN OFF.

[nowoolies]

agree that is your opinion nowoolies, but not necessarily with your opinion :-) But I do have one of those billet and shackle jobs

sorry mate
i would`nt touch one with a barge pole (billet and shackle)
all my shackle gear is auzzie made and ....stamped
iv`e seen a couple of failures no one hurt but vehicles damaged
just my 2 cents

[nowoolies]

And ya can forget this one too, anyone who sells these has no concience, this can rip the towball off and send that and the shackle at 300ks/hr in one side of your head and out the other, through the back window and another 60 meters, then it will stop, hit the ground and then others will see some of your BRAINS fall off.
I suggest anyone looking at recovery hooks, shackles, straps and towing eyes, to do some research on this forum and any others where you can find the info needed to make a safe purchase.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/towballshackle.jpg

this is one of the pieces of crap i have seen fail , and go right through the rear door and back seat finally to lodge in the back of the passerger seat
no one was in the passerger seat ....thank god

[the ferret]

I assume you are talking about Josh Stein ?


The Coroner reported.........






Even though The towbar as marked on the identification plate is a genuine Toyota accessory.


The ball coupling that failed is regarded as being NON-GENUINE. The design is vulnerable to corrosion and fatigue. There is some indication of poor quality welding. The internal services of the RHS appear to have had no protective coating.







Who knows what or where the bit that failed was made, and looks like not a tested Toyota bit that failed, but yes $50 is not that much to spend, but are you going to keep a spare to fit into other peoples cars so bits dont come flying your way ?
Yep, that's the one.
But not the only one, there have been many deaths caused by similar hook ups.

[nowoolies]

And ya can forget this one too, anyone who sells these has no concience, this can rip the towball off and send that and the shackle at 300ks/hr in one side of your head and out the other, through the back window and another 60 meters, then it will stop, hit the ground and then others will see some of your BRAINS fall off.
I suggest anyone looking at recovery hooks, shackles, straps and towing eyes, to do some research on this forum and any others where you can find the info needed to make a safe purchase.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt164/ferret/towballshackle.jpg

look at the rating on the package

4.8 tonnes W.L.L ..........WILL ..LETHALLY ..LETGO

[Silver]

sorry mate
i would`nt touch one with a barge pole (billet and shackle)
all my shackle gear is auzzie made and ....stamped
iv`e seen a couple of failures no one hurt but vehicles damaged
just my 2 cents

I think we've got our wires crossed no wollies, by billet and shackle I mean the solid block that goes into the hitch receiver (billet) and shackle

[nowoolies]

I think we've got our wires crossed no wollies, by billet and shackle I mean the solid block that goes into the hitch receiver (billet) and shackle

sorry mate i thought you were talking about the one above

[Finly Owner]

Now here we have the ever erupting what's right and what's wrong.

Receiver and pin only; will withstand most general recoveries at a straight pull with most general recovery straps. Endeavour Rally only accepts this type to be used no possible missiles in strap if any thing does go wrong. All welding is to boiler maker trade certificate certified for receivers front and rear must be fitted.

Bow shackles rated are actually rated for load strain not instant snap strain.

the Billet steel recovery point and bow shackle are a safe angle pull option as long as all weight factors are calculated, so to reduce the chances of bow shackles breaking and becoming missiles.

The Factory Nissan recovery point is actually stronger than most people think. They are not mild steel,(I can't remember what steel it is) (but I could find out) and the hook is actually baked and cool to create strength. QNPC is happy to use them in snatches.

So in summary I can use all three methods and all so carry a snatch dampner blanket. I don't think any of these are wrong, but all are right, as long as all safety concerns are eliminated or, the very least reduced. Three people only involved in the snatch; The recovery vehicle driver, the stuck vehicle driver, and a caller standing in safe zone.


Tim

[twisty]

I purchased one of these from supacheep today $40. I hope to never need to use it. It's all stamped with ... WLL. Its a solid bit of kit and heavier than some things I use on the tractor. Snatch straps have always scared me ... but ... you never know. I carry a tractor drag chain with me anyway :-)

[Silver]

I purchased one of these from supacheep today $40. I hope to never need to use it. It's all stamped with ... WLL. Its a solid bit of kit and heavier than some things I use on the tractor. Snatch straps have always scared me ... but ... you never know. I carry a tractor drag chain with me anyway :-)

hello Twisty, better to be alert, but not alarmed, than too relaxed with tools that can maim or kill. You'll be right with that sensible attitude.

I've only ever snatched lightly bogged vehicles - but have seen Patrol/Cruiser snatched out of 'quicksand' bogged down to the chassis on a DVD from a national 4wd mag. And it looked like they were having a fair old go :-) Not for me.

I have some supercheap stuff myself. I do wonder about the quality control of some stuff - not necessarily from there.

I have seen at a general auto store, a 4.7 WLL rated shackle, or so the casting said, but there was insufficient thread in the shackle for the pin- it just floated. I suppose it could still have been 4.7WLL, but it did make me wonder :-) I'm not saying that you'd necessarily get anything better at a 4wd store, but you'd hope so.

[Silver]

Now here we have the ever erupting what's right and what's wrong.

Receiver and pin only; will withstand most general recoveries at a straight pull with most general recovery straps. Endeavour Rally only accepts this type to be used no possible missiles in strap if any thing does go wrong. All welding is to boiler maker trade certificate certified for receivers front and rear must be fitted.

Bow shackles rated are actually rated for load strain not instant snap strain.

the Billet steel recovery point and bow shackle are a safe angle pull option as long as all weight factors are calculated, so to reduce the chances of bow shackles breaking and becoming missiles.

The Factory Nissan recovery point is actually stronger than most people think. They are not mild steel,(I can't remember what steel it is) (but I could find out) and the hook is actually baked and cool to create strength. QNPC is happy to use them in snatches.

So in summary I can use all three methods and all so carry a snatch dampner blanket. I don't think any of these are wrong, but all are right, as long as all safety concerns are eliminated or, the very least reduced. Three people only involved in the snatch; The recovery vehicle driver, the stuck vehicle driver, and a caller standing in safe zone.


Tim

yeah, I think better a hook that straightens before tearing out than a chunk of metal that comes along with the strap. However, I wanted something on both rails and a bridle, hence the after market plates for the Mighty Mav. Cost a few buck, though :-)

[satyx]

Well i purchased one of the billet/shackle jobs yesterday. I have decided to use it for heavier pulls where needed. When in doubt ive been told if the load is to big to snatch then i need to dig more. lol.

[Sir Roofy]

i agree with bob about the drag chain being preferred. Simple, strong and much much safer than a snatch. Also agree with et that snatching should be done only as a last resort after all other recovery techniques have failed. Get ya shovel out, or get ya max trax out and spend the time getting unstuck properly. That's all part of 4x4ing.

Also, why is it these days that the snatch is seen as the primary recovery method? Didn't have them years ago when people simply towed someone out of a pickle with a chain or tow rope/strap. My 2c.

i 2 have a drag chain i use not sure about a snatch strap
as plassy said if it did brake they drop

[Finly Owner]

I have never admitted to having my set of chains. First chain is 2 chain sling of 8mm machinery chain on Ring with slip hooks on the other end. Then I have two single one with snip a snip hook on each to use as anchor chains. And a 3rd one with a slip hook and a 3.5t bow shackle for "justin". These are used for gentle slow tugs and consistant weight tow. I also carru two straps that are not "Snatch straps" but will assist in emergencies, as they have an eye in only 1 end each and can be anchored by the correct hitching methods.


Tim

[adrian]

this may well be a stupid question but the pin doesn't look real strong to me at all, is it rated for the kind of strain associated with a snatch recovery? And this may be even stupider but what's the big solid looking hook with the four bolts just above the towbar for if it's not recovery?

[adrian]

on a GQ, oops

[the ferret]

Hi Adrian, It would take a lot to snap/sheer that pin, given it's thickness and being very short.
The hook on the back is only a "U'' buttwelded to the plate and I wouldn't trust it as it's only a towing/tiedown point.
There has been a lot of discussion about that hook/loop.
Anything capable of 300km/h towards your head, has to be avoided.

[Silver]

A fatality occured at City View, now Scenic Rim 4x4 Park a few years ago, and involved a chain recovery - haven't looked for the other details, and a shame for the man and his family. The office bloke mentioned it when we were last there, and that it had been closed down for a while before they took over.
http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2008/04/07/2209328.htm?section=justin

[the ferret]

Here we go again.

Picture: Seven News


UPDATE: A 29-year-old woman has been killed in a freak accident on a Geraldton beach today.

Police say the mother-of-three was sitting in a car which was reversing in an attempt to pull another car out of sand at Drummond Cove, about 12km north of Geraldton, just after noon.

According to officers, the tow ball on the bogged car dislodged and was flung backwards through a window of the rear car, hitting the woman in the throat.

People at the scene drove her to the outskirts of Geraldton and met an ambulance at a road house.

The woman died soon afterwards in Geraldton Hospital.

Police are still at the scene.

NOTE: I don't know why they call it a FREAK accident, snatching from the towball is a forgone conclusion, DEATH!!

[Finly Owner]

A fatality occured at City View, now Scenic Rim 4x4 Park a few years ago, and involved a chain recovery - haven't looked for the other details, and a shame for the man and his family. The office bloke mentioned it when we were last there, and that it had been closed down for a while before they took over.
http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2008/04/07/2209328.htm?section=justincity view is still city view

Tim

[Silver]

city view is still city view

Tim

Thanks for the update Tim - I went looking because the current bloke at Scenic Rim mentioned both the accident and the name change. Now I'm confused as to where it was, but the underlying message to be careful and informed is still there, I guess.

[maque]

hi there. what can you use for recovery points in the rear. Don't have/want a hitch and hitch covers (http://www.stylintrucks.com/category/towing/hitch_covers.aspx). That will be on the bumper. I installed the tow hooks up front but there seems to be nothing for the rear.

[growler2058]

There are attachments that fit into your towbar like the image below. There is some debate weather to use a hook or a rated shackle however NEVER use the tow ball!!!

[rkinsey]

hi there. what can you use for recovery points in the rear. Don't have/want a hitch and hitch covers (http://www.stylintrucks.com/category/towing/hitch_covers.aspx). That will be on the bumper. I installed the tow hooks up front but there seems to be nothing for the rear.

All it will cost you is $40.00 and a trip to the Supercheap auto store. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/RIDGE-RYDER-4-750KG-HITCH-RECIEVER.aspx?pid=280138#Description

Cheers,

Rob

[Mazodude]

All it will cost you is $40.00 and a trip to the Supercheap auto store. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/RIDGE-RYDER-4-750KG-HITCH-RECIEVER.aspx?pid=280138#Description

Cheers,

Rob

gee that looks good.
will have to pick one up myself

[twisty]

G'day guys n gals,

I had to drag a broken farm ute 5km back to the shed last weekend and remembered most of what I've read and learnt recently. Normally the tractor would do, but, I decided to do it in comfort and see what all the fuss was about. Broken ute returned, emptied and ready to scrap (hhmmm ... now I need another). Anyway ...

It seems to me that the snatch recovery technique should be used ONLY be used AFTER digging has failed. Bugga digging ... that's too hard! Unless I'm alone of course, then, no choice if no winch.

So ... (theory for the lazy follows) ... if all else has failed try a snatch recovery using a strap that is the WEAKEST link (3000kg ??). Start at the SLOWEST speed possible and pretend it's a chain. Increase speed if unsucessful until strap breaks ;-) Get tractor and chain.

Easy ...

[benmatters]

you are better off have a recovery ponit in line with the strongest point of your 4x4 remember I Y T

[MudRunnerTD]

I was going to ask you what IYT means ben but saw your other thread so thought i'd put it here for future reference for others.


I Y T is very important as you can have the whole thing fail if you have the anchors or recovery points wrong. I stands for ideal it is a straight line anchor or recovery point say for example in line with your 4x4 cassis as it’s your strongest point. Y stands for YES it works well not as good as I but as the Y is you have two anchor or recovery points no greater than 90 degrees on each. T stands for terrible it exceeds the 180 degree line and will double your load should never be used. Any thoughts on this?