Disconnecting the Y62 Shunt

[MudRunnerTD]

So here is the first Mod you should do to your Y62 if you intend to install a second battery. Lithium or Gel, makes no difference, this needs to be sorted.

The Negative Shunt is factory fitted as part of the smart Alternator to turn down the charging voltage from 14v after start up to a tickle charge of as low as 12.2V. A Lithium or Gel Battery does not like this at all. Removing the shunt let's the Alternator produce 14V all day.

This is as easy as it gets and will take you about 1 minute...

All you need is your glasses on and a small flat head screw driver and a 10mm socket or spanner.

So the Shunt is attached to the side of the negative battery terminal. Right here.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/69.jpg

First disconnect the negative terminal with the 10mm socket and put something over the battery post to stop it arcing while you work.

Lift the terminal off and you can see the shunt.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/70.jpg

Use the screw driver to leaver under the crazy little clip on the side. This was a bit of a bustard but it got done.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/71.jpg

Pull that sucker off.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/72.jpg

Then shove that sucker down the side of the battery and forget it was ever there. Never to be spoken of again.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/09/73.jpg

Happy Days!!

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[Avo]

I reckon I'm gunna learn sheep loads from you aye....

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[the evil twin]

Instead of levering off the top of the retaining clip with a screwdriver, push in on the bottom of the retaining clip and it pulls straight off.

[MudRunnerTD]

Instead of levering off the top of the retaining clip with a screwdriver, push in on the bottom of the retaining clip and it pulls straight off.

hahaha. cheers mate. I did look for somewhere to push but im going blind. It got done, push makes way more sense.

[Rossco]

Apologies in advance but can't resist the opportunity. . .
hahaha. cheers mate. I did look for somewhere to push but im going blind. It got done, push makes way more sense. Probably too hard with sausage fingers anyway. . [emoji6] [emoji6] [emoji1787] . . .

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[MudRunnerTD]

Apologies in advance but can't resist the opportunity. . . Probably too hard with sausage fingers anyway. . [emoji6] [emoji6] [emoji1787] . . .

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Hahahaha Shit Head.

Lets face it mate! I coulda used an Angle Grinder! Would still got it done!!

[Avo]

Apologies in advance but can't resist the opportunity. . . Probably too hard with sausage fingers anyway. . [emoji6] [emoji6] [emoji1787] . . .

Sent from my SM-G781B using TapatalkKeep em coming i say....

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[04OFF]

FYI, When i researched this initially with my S5, i read rare reports of some people getting fault lights by "removing" the shunt plug as you describe, to solve it, it was suggested they remove the shunt from the battery terminal connection, but leave it hanging (cable tied) but still connected to its plug so the car ECU still believes it is there.

Personally ive had zero issues with my shunt connected (since March 2020) a correctly set up second battery should run a DC-DC charger anyway, i think problems arise because people attach stuff to the battery terminals as they normally would with old school cars, this bypasses the shunt and so the extra load is not compensated for, but if all added loads are connected to a body earth (and not directly to the battery terminal) the shunt will see the load, and increase output from the Alternator respectively.

The ultimate decision for shunt i left to my Auto Electrician, he said defiantly leave the shunt as per factory, my second battery can still get fed about 39Amps charge at idle through the DC-DC, and runs my fridge 24/7 (have a thread on it in this section somewhere)

[MudRunnerTD]

FYI, When i researched this initially with my S5, i read rare reports of some people getting fault lights by "removing" the shunt plug as you describe, to solve it, it was suggested they remove the shunt from the battery terminal connection, but leave it hanging (cable tied) but still connected to its plug so the car ECU still believes it is there.

Personally ive had zero issues with my shunt connected (since March 2020) a correctly set up second battery should run a DC-DC charger anyway, i think problems arise because people attach stuff to the battery terminals as they normally would with old school cars, this bypasses the shunt and so the extra load is not compensated for, but if all added loads are connected to a body earth (and not directly to the battery terminal) the shunt will see the load, and increase output from the Alternator respectively.

The ultimate decision for shunt i left to my Auto Electrician, he said defiantly leave the shunt as per factory, my second battery can still get fed about 39Amps charge at idle through the DC-DC, and runs my fridge 24/7 (have a thread on it in this section somewhere)

I have fitted the DCS80 Lithium under the bonnet and was advised that that shunt would reduce the output of the Alternator after initial start up to put it out od the optimal charging range of the Lithium. I will be installing a DCDC in the back for the accessories too for sure.