Series 4 Slider

[GUIV]

I have started making my first welding project - a new slider. To keep notching to minimum, I use SHS in most places. Also I want this be my last slider to make, so I use 4mm wall SHS and NB40 pipe, as well as 6 mm thick plate for bracket and gasset.

The progress will be slow as I only have 1-2 free mornings every fortnight to do this sort of stuff.

I will let the photo do the talking.

50mm 4mm wall SHS, capped to prevent mud and mositure entering....


http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/GUIV/Slider%20Built/PICT1333.jpg



http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/GUIV/Slider%20Built/PICT1337.jpg



First bracket made. 6mm plate is probably the thickest you can do for the driver side so they can be slide in between chassis and fuel line. Check out my improved (but still quite sh!tee) welding...haha


http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/GUIV/Slider%20Built/PICT1338.jpg



http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/GUIV/Slider%20Built/PICT1339.jpg

[GUIV]

Not a very good news... I wanted to test out how strong the bracket is, so I put the bracket on floor and stand on it at the tip (I am closed to 100kg), very slight bending.

Then I drove my Patrol with front wheel on it, and the bracket snapped. Upon inspection on the fracture surface, I found there is insufficient weld penteration....

So I back to practice mode and will try again tomorrow.

If the weld is done properly, am I being unreasonable to put the Patrol on the bracket to see if it will withstand its weight (about 500-600kg)? It is 8mm plate.

[macca86]

I'm a boilermaker by trade you need to prep all that sort of stuff if you're going to grind it flush for looks. what ever you're joining grind a Vee into both set of materials and leave a 1 to 2 mm gap to allow full pen on your welds. are you using 2.5 or 3.2 welding rods or gasless mig? any questions send them my way and I'll help. plus it will all stiffen up once bolted and stiffners put in place. also use heavy black pipe and remove all rust paint and gal off your job with the grinder to stop inclusions

[GUIV]

Thanks Macca86. I am using 3.2 6013 rod with inverter DC welder.

Just redo the thing using the snapped pieces. Sucessfully park the patrol on top.

Did not snapped it, but bend the plate....

Will do the 'V' and leave gap when the real one is being done.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/GUIV/Slider%20Built/PICT1341.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/GUIV/Slider%20Built/PICT1342.jpg

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/GUIV/Slider%20Built/PICT1343.jpg

[macca86]

If I were using stick I'd use a 16tc low hydrogen rod welding 6mm plate 3.2 rod is fine on your tee fillets weld about 120 to 130 amps and on your prepped 4mm stuff 110 amps will do should you be blowing holes still you might be lifting up and you've got a bit of undercut. you should be pretty much resting and dragging in the weld pool short arc length is needed. If that doesn't help turn the juice down a bit.
If you're worried about bending go to 10mm plate or add gussets where you can

[GUIV]

I am not worry about the strength of the 8mm plate. I know it is strong enough if my welding is up to it.

The test was mainly to test the strength of the welding rather than the bracket itself.

I have played around the amp a bit and found about 110th amp is good. Will try making V on the real set.

The biggest improvement come from using cigweld rod rather than cheapie. What other brand are good because cigweld is quite expensive.

[macca86]

ausarc are pretty good get to b.o.c gas and gear or aitken welding supply ask them what would suit your application and budget

[GUIV]

I happened to get some austarc by WIA, after the recommendation from the local welding supply. Have not had time to test it yet.

[macca86]

that's the one good rod they are too