TD42 Compression Test Results Query Please Team

[MB]

G’day NP.com.au Team,

Finally gave the old GQ ute (TD42 with Safari dealer turbo) a fresh set of Glow Plugs & Injectors today.

Decided it worth giving the old faithful to date a Compression Test whilst firstly swapping the Glows out and came up with these numbers below:

1) 520psi
2) 520psi
3) 495psi
4) 485psi
5) 440psi [emoji848]
6) 500psi

As far as I have kindly read posted on here and manuals too stating a TD42 in a perfect world should be Maximum 427psi with a Minimum 355psi and a Maximum variance of around 43psi.

I’m not too concerned of the higher found than listed Maximum psi’s but are hoping please for some advice on cylinder (5) showing up a 440psi which is a whisker over the variance threshold for the next lowest cylinder (4) at 485psi but nearly double the threshold for the highest two front cylinders found at 520psi together.

Any and all input/teachings would be greatly appreciated before our next decent work trip departure [emoji1696][emoji120]

Many Thanks

Mark


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rossco]

Oh wow old girls got sums decent compression going on. . Assume you gave it all few goes and checked for tight seal on the suspect one as could just be slightly squed reading? ?

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[mudnut]

Squirt a smidgen of oil onto the bore of number 5. If the reading rises quite a bit, it has a stuck ring or worn rings. If it only rises a little, then a valve is the problem.

[MB]

Minimum two tests performed on all cylinders thanks Rossco Mate and a second two tests after on the suspect found one. [emoji106][emoji106]
The parallel pair of D31A Optimas spin its new starter like a high speed air cranker so have eliminated any foul play there hopefully.

Did forget to mention apologies that its suspect cylinder (5) 440psi hit 400psi in the same timeframe as all others final readings but took an additional 50% <>100% longer cranking time to reach its final 440psi recorded.

In regards all cylinders results being generated higher than standard I can only nuffy assume from quickly reading diesel forums that its age could have carbon built up atop of its pistons maybe?

I’m most nuffy confused though that even its cylinder (5) final 440psi although beyond the 43psi variance recommendations of others is still some 85psi above recommended Minimum 355psi found [emoji52]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudnut]

Since its above the minimum, my idea isn't relevant. Have you got an inspection camera to see if it has the same amount of carbon build up as the others?

[MB]

Squirt a smidgen of oil onto the bore of number 5. If the reading rises quite a bit, it has a stuck ring or worn rings. If it only rises a little, then a valve is the problem.

Thanks Craigstar Mate, Appreciated [emoji106][emoji106]
I believe that might be a Petrol donk trick with bore access via the spark plug possibly?
The only easy access inside the bore on this old diesel clacker I think is through a removed injector and up under an intake valve when open as far as my new toy bought today could see, wouldn’t fit through the injector hole [emoji23]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/97.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/98.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Was typing same time apologies quoting afterwards Craig [emoji4] [emoji120]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudnut]

No problem, Mark. Would a dribbling injector clean out some of the carbon? Nissannewby would be the one to ask. Bugger the camera can't see around corners. Mine came with a mirror.

[MB]

Accidentally topped up nearly half a tank of Petroleum into our Old Mans 2.4L diesel Hilux as a kid, that sure Bunnyhopped the carbon clean out of it in the day, knocked all the carbon out of me too driving it home from the servo until the realisation [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Update, record keeping [emoji1696]

As above, recorded (hoping my calculations are % correct below)

#Average cylinder psi near 15% above 427psi maximum recommended.

#Average cylinder psi near 28% above 355psi minimum recommended.

# Still currently one suspect cylinder beyond team threshold.

Have popped in to see Andy @ Dieseltec and are booked in for Friday week for a Dyno/Inspect and he’ll compare to old last runs data thankfully kept on system when he kindly turned it down for little old nuffy me because it’s previous driver was scoring too much soot moot [emoji23]

Interestingly, each day since changing both Glows & Injectors recently it appears to be sneaking back at a best guess 2% power/gears up our bastard hills to home after work [emoji106][emoji106]

I also swear last night it stunk of rotten diesel burnoff after parking it up at home from pushing it to its limits uphill, hopefully I’ve cooked some half burnt shit out of it and it’s on the mend if that’s possible [emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji1696]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

First why is this in the trip section? MB

Also I wouldn't stress about it to much. Have a look at where the intake pipe is on the standard inlet manifold. Then see where your lower numbers are....
The higher numbers must have some carbon build up fudging the numbers a little as with the standard intake those cylinders are not getting enough air for a complete burn and will hence build more carbon than the 3 near the intake manifold inlet. Just my educated opinion though :).

[MB]

Whoops, my bad again, think I’ve accidentally done that a couple of times, hopefully an administrator can help technology wipe my arse pretty please [emoji51][emoji23]
Makes total sense now thanks as always Mat Mate, I do remember/listening to your custom Plenum education one late night in person and slowly nuffy seeing its missing affects now [emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

MB
Did you get this looked at yesterday or is it next week?

[MB]

Sure did Mat Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
It’s having a weekend sleepover inside Andrews shop so he can witness my cold start puff puffs himself Monday from maybe one or two cylinders noticed myself on fresh mornings.
The dyno history has gone down from 70rwkw to a now 55rwkw is all I currently know as he will kindly give me his complete assessment Monday arvo.
I’m a little suspect on the only 2 year old replacement Safari turbo at this stage but who knows?
Suppose to be driving the old faithful to NT for work departing in under 3 weeks now [emoji51]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Dyno results below for Old Grandpa Spec Ute:

Blue Line was early 2020 when we finally requested Andrew (Dieseltec) kindly turn it down for us as it was properly sooting black cop bait from the original owner.

Black Line was Friday just gone showing reduced power from previously 65rwkw on 33” High Friction Roller-Muddies down to a now 53rwkw on 33” All Terrains. Torque drop from 227NM - 213NM on what nuffy appears to me to be a much differing early rpm curve line?

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/133.jpg

Quick advice so far is to look towards a future rebuild with fresh injector pump, turbo and added intercooler.

Until coin permits and prior to departing soon hopefully for NT work I should make sure:

#RACV Total Care is paid up.
#Keep it under 95kmph
#Closely monitor its oil consumption and catch can regularly.
#Considering changing up from 15W 40 to 20W 60

Any and all other helpful advice would be Greatly Appreciated [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudnut]

Fit a Carby RB30 :} THEY COME STOCK AT 70 RWKW.

[MB]

Thanks Craigstar Mate [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
What sort of compression ratio are those rippers running at?
Hopefully can hold the old laden ute from running away on me down gnarly decents crawling? [emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AB]

This question should be in another thread but is there oil in the turbo outlet?

Did Andy check all that or just dyno mate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Just Dyno Bro but it was very clean across the Safari outlet cast over pipe to the OEM inlet manifold when we had to remove it to gain access to injectors & glows below whilst replacing the week before last mentioned [emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

In regards its oil consumption AB I think we should get our TD’s and maybe others too off the Valvoline 15W-40 drum down at work [emoji51] James (Jimmy) did mention today that his own runs in the old Acco of late now using it too it’s the first time he’s seen the fresh Cummins 8.3L need oil added also [emoji848]
I can only seem to find online Penrite 20W 60, has anyone kindly had any experience with it on older design dinosaur donks ? [emoji120]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

With everything you have said I would be looking at the fuel pump and injectors. I wouldn't be stressing on an engine rebuild with those compression results. I mean you could maybe do a bearing roll in chassis if you think that your oil pressure is low???

I would change the oil, I have seen some oil usage when I have used other oils and basically only used delo or shell rimula with good results. Not a fan of Penrite.

Intercooler is neither here or there at your level of tune. It's nice and would help but no huge gain for the work/cost.

Why keep it under 95km/h?

[MB]

With everything you have said I would be looking at the fuel pump and injectors. I wouldn't be stressing on an engine rebuild with those compression results. I mean you could maybe do a bearing roll in chassis if you think that your oil pressure is low???

I would change the oil, I have seen some oil usage when I have used other oils and basically only used delo or shell rimula with good results. Not a fan of Penrite.

Intercooler is neither here or there at your level of tune. It's nice and would help but no huge gain for the work/cost.

Why keep it under 95km/h?

Awesome Thanks Heaps Mat Mate [emoji120][emoji120]
Apologies for quoting your post, helps me read above correctly hopefully whilst replying to Top Advice [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
Fuel pump a definite future need and was kindly also mentioned by Andy as being potentially pressure low or something in areas unknown to me. Installed Zexel injectors ourselves the week before last and definitely helped bring it back from horrible to drive able, had lost a whole gear up hills at least [emoji51]
Delo or Rimula X I will seek out for sure thank you kindly and will even seriously consider changing all other old trucks over too [emoji120][emoji120]
In regards keeping it under 95kmph, Andy’s offsider suggested and I also have experienced it double oil consumption on a 10hr highway test last year, first 5hrs at 110km (approximately 50mm / 100km) second 5hr test 90kmph (25mm /100km) …..ish but honestly highly noticeable usage difference to me at the time as I was running out of supplies, hence why I carry a spare spare 10L extra atop of drums in my sliders right side these days [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rossco]

Yeah 100 % agree I reckon pump & injectors would see old gramps good for another 300K easy [emoji106] . .

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[mudnut]

Thanks Craigstar Mate [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
What sort of compression ratio are those rippers running at?
Hopefully can hold the old laden ute from running away on me down gnarly decents crawling? [emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah, Mark. It doesn't even get close to compression braking under 3000 rpm, Even with my you-beaut engine. Hang on and grit your teeth!!!

[MB]

Apologies Rossco Mate, we were typing same time, me slow one finger button man [emoji23]
Injectors done as above and a great improvement, just can’t understand where on earth the oil is going, zero blue smoke ever and you could hopefully vouch for that having convoyed with me up the mountains not too long ago.
Catch can isn’t great news but its absolute flogging 110kmph quick (Calder Bastard) re-test towing 500km the week before last only produced say 30-50mm versus ten times that missing from its sump [emoji51]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rossco]

Hmm yeah definatly can couch for no visual blue smoke. Trust you've done an oil cap blow by test. . . So how much she go though over say 5 thousand on average ??

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[MB]

Hmm yeah definatly can couch for no visual blue smoke. Trust you've done an oil cap blow by test. . . So how much she go though over say 5 thousand on average ??

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

How to: “Oil Cap Blow By Test” ?
I’ve never nuffy heard of it Thanks Rossco Mate [emoji120][emoji120]
Usage average over 5,000km, as best as I can explain is that if I flog it heavy towing and or versus light towing or unladen speeding at say 110kmph it would use at a best guess 2.5L versus say 1.25L over the same terrain. It’s used so variably as you know from Tassie tracks to daily mountain runs to highway hauling etc….etc….[emoji51][emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rossco]

Hmm so she uses a little bit... Take the oil cap off while running and check for excessive oil mist / pressure coming out or even put cap just resting and check it doest get blown off if that makes sense. .

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[MB]

Thanks Rossco Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Test performed just before, satellite [emoji341] is about to explode uploading such a massive video file [emoji23]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/143.jpg

Won’t be too much longer hopefully [emoji120]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

All done:

https://youtu.be/1K4NrpNZjrc

The old clacker definitely has rocker fumes, even lukewarm testing but I’m assuming they’re the particles it’s catching in its new can?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nissannewby]

Will always have fumes. But the filler cap isn't even bouncing around so looks good.

[Rossco]

Yeah nothing to worry about there for sure. .

. . Looks like I feature a fair bit on your channel, might have to start paying royalties. . [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

[MB]

Thanks Gents, Appreciated [emoji106][emoji106]

I just need to alter all of the names slightly @Wossco and they’re legally mine…….forever [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jff45]

What are your thoughts on fitting a lift pump to help the tired IP a bit..?

[mudski]

What are your thoughts on fitting a lift pump to help the tired IP a bit..?

My thoughts exactly whilst driving home from work today. Run a Carter 4600, or whatever number they’re up too, just after the fuel tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

That sounds great to be honest John Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Have you any recommendations on brands possibly used yourself before and happy with? [emoji120]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Thanks Mudski Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
Was typing same time, Carter sounds good [emoji108]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jff45]

I run a Carter 4600 that I bought from mudski years ago. It uses the old TB45E ECU “prime” function to run for 5 seconds on ignition, which is basically while the glow is happening, then switches on full time once oil pressure is established.
If engine stalls and oil pressure drops, the pump just stops.

Some command it from the alternator to have a similar cutout feature if engine stops for whatever reason.

[MB]

Was just reading up on some other very helpful advice from Mr Mudski on here too thanks John [emoji120]

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=16273&share_tid=39467&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Enissanpatrol%2Ecom%2Eau%2Ff orums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D39467&share_type=t&link_source=app
mudski Mr Mark are you still running the business on the side Mate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudski]

Was just reading up on some other very helpful advice from Mr Mudski on here too thanks John [emoji120]

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=16273&share_tid=39467&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Enissanpatrol%2Ecom%2Eau%2Ff orums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D39467&share_type=t&link_source=app
mudski Mr Mark are you still running the business on the side Mate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No I sold that business mate. To my current boss's son in law. Lol.
Anyway, the Carter is still going strong. I have it plumbed in with a bypass set up so if the pump fails fuel will be drawn via the bypass and not through the pump which may have adverse affects. I also have it wired in so the pump only runs when there is oil pressure, so the earth for the pump is connected to the oil pressure switch. Some will wire it straight via the ignition, so they can prime a new fuel filter easier, but I don't like the idea of the pump, pumping fuel when its not needed, say like if your doing some eleccy work and need the ignition on etc. Its not hard to pump the factory primer anyway. My setup runs its own relay aswell. No biggie either way with this, personal choice really...

[jff45]

You can get other pumps that will allow fuel to be sucked through them if they stop. As Mark mentioned, the Carter needs a bypass check valve in the setup so the IP can suck fuel around it in case it stops working.

[MB]

Thanks Gents, Appreciated [emoji106][emoji106]

Fast easy installation time might be of my greatest issue at the moment, although in saying that NT has its borders closed currently throwing a spanner in our work plans [emoji51]

I’ve done a little bit of a McGoogle search on others and are getting a bit lost on some of the features, some with pressure relief, some without and also relays maybe needed on some too?

Have found a Holley chart that appears to have 3 Mighty Mite models for diesel application that list allowing flow to pass through if they fail.

https://documents.holley.com/holleyfuelsystems_chart.pdf

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-428

Some Legends out there over on P4x4 appear to highly rate the Holley Red’s on their TD42’s and it looks like I may be able to get one from SCA down in Lilydale although they appear to be spec’d as Gasoline models which has me even more confused now [emoji848]

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-801-1

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/holley-holley-red-fuel-pump-7-psi-97-gph/SPO3827084.html


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jff45]

I don't think the gasoline spec matters. The Carters are gasoline pumps. My petrol subtank pump transfers the diesel no problem.
Any decent pump will need to be run through a relay anyway.

[mudski]

It would be interesting to see how quiet the Holley pump is. The 4600 I have can be heard easily when standing next to it or behind the car. it doesn't really concern me just a thought really.

[PeeBee]

The differences may be in the seal materials. I use Aeroflow and they are sold specifically for petrol and then diesel applications. Have not had a problem with mine in 5 yrs use.

[nissannewby]

You want a pump that has high flow and 6-14psi of pressure. So anything like has been suggested, carter 4600 or 4601, Holly red etc etc. All these suggested ones will work with most fuels. Apart from when using special fuels like nitro and methanol etc most pumps will easily do petrol or diesel.

[MB]

Thanks Again Gents, Really Appreciated [emoji106][emoji106]

Just zipped over the hills to VPW in Epping to pickup a Holley Red but was informed they unfortunately would not warranty it used for a diesel application [emoji51]
Ended up purchasing the biggest of the 3 models Holley Mighty Mite (12-428) with 7-10psi /34 Gal./hr capability Gasoline/Diesel. Has vacuum pull through ability if it fails and was $88 inc GST, hope it holds up but warranty said given [emoji1696][emoji120]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/147.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/148.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudski]

How much did VPW sting you for that? interesting too, the 4600 is 100gph and the Holley is 34. But the Carter has 1-2 (circa) psi less. Wonder if this makes any difference to ye'old TD42?

[nissannewby]

How much did VPW sting you for that? interesting too, the 4600 is 100gph and the Holley is 34. But the Carter has 1-2 (circa) psi less. Wonder if this makes any difference to ye'old TD42?

It will if the engines gets lent on. The holley may not produce enough volume. It will be enough for the current application. For a warmed over TD I would use a carter 4601.

[MB]

$88 inc GST Mudski Mate and I’m only hoping for it to take some pressure off the poor old IP for this trip. Just need it to get me there and back and I’ll look to getting IP rebuilt when coin permits [emoji1696][emoji120]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Must say it’s a fairly heavy little nugget of a thing unpacked just now, hopefully heavy means quality to get me temporarily back up over the massive mighty 60rwkw mark it mite [emoji1696][emoji120][emoji23]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/152.jpg

FWIW: Do NOT pull the little rubber bungs out of each end to blow test the inbuilt one way check valve …….it’s full of factory packaging oil and now all over the kitchen table…….idiot MB style[emoji2957][emoji12][emoji23]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/06/153.jpg

Interestingly within the installation instructions it suggests the optional Holley 12-810 Oil Pressure Safety Switch (petrol applications) to cut off supply when oil pressure drops below 5psi which I never knew such a safe guard existed:

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_system_components_and_service/fuel_pump_accessories/parts/12-810

Thinking that when I’m finished with it and when time comes to properly fix up the old TD42 I might switch it over to the Daughters TB45 as whatever elecy pump is under its floor pan currently sounds like a million Bees [emoji219] buzzing and I’m not confident She’ll keep a proper eye on OEM dash warning lights [emoji3544]

Again, I really do appreciate your advice Craig, John, Ross, Mark, Andy, Phil & Mat Mates [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]

Your helpful posts have not fallen on deaf ears and I will build plan on a Carter pump in the future along with other TLC power upgrades Old Grandpa Spec deserves in the future.

Cheers Legends!!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

FWIW (record keeping) :
Will fit the baby lift pump this week but did replace the $110 Zexel IP shutoff solenoid Friday morning before a quick weekend away up the mountains.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/07/20.jpg

Wacky own theory was for ruling out any slight chance of it possibly jamming say half way but didn’t appear once removed to have any spring sticking point tested even with near 30 YO wear marks [emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/07/21.jpg

FWIW2: An absolute nightmare of an OEM design swap over whilst the IP is on the truck, an expected 15min job turned into over 2hrs [emoji2959][emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jff45]

You’ve just reminded me that one of the items on my list of things to fabricate is a dedicated spanner for that solenoid.

[MB]

That’s exactly what it needs John Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
A 15/16” open end spanner head cut off with a 1/2” drive socket connection for a long extension drive up top above the intake manifold would make life shiploads easier next time [emoji736][emoji736]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jff45]

Isn’t it metric 24mm? I was thinking a thin walled 12 point ring but can’t really remember if a ring will fit over.
I’ll take a closer look at it

[MB]

The 24mm I found slightly sloppy on it and kept trying to butcher the thing on the angle I was on initially, changed over to the 15/16” and was snug as [emoji106][emoji106]
Definitely can’t fit a ring spanner over it as is next to zero room on the back side unfortunately.
I ended up undoing the banjo on the hardline so I could lift it slightly to get the open ended spanner onto it at 90 degrees but then also had to remove 2 of the 3 accelerator cable mounting bracket bolts so I could swing it out of the way for quarter turns at a time. [emoji29]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nipagu7]

lookup crowsfoot socket . it might be what you need to get the job done .

[jff45]

Maybe a modified flare nut spanner

[nipagu7]

you can get crows foot flare nut sockets also

[MB]

Had to look up the names of them both Thanks Legends (McGoggle images for me :-) but do agree both of them Top Tools Gents could definitely be modified to get the job done next time for us all for sure [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
As best as I can remember my nuffy In situ removal/replace seen no way of any ring type socket spanner that had beyond say 180 degree grip/wrap being able to overlap connect due to the pump’s top/side proximity on approximately 120 degrees of its circumference maybe? [emoji51]
Another issue found when trialling a standard ring spanner intially was that the + connection atop of the solenoid wouldn’t allow a ring to slip over due to its head room from pump casting also if that makes sense?
All I can say is that Mr Nissan (Injection Pump Division) back in the day never considered some poor Aussie Bloke/Sheila trying to remove and plug with a bung one of the few only things things that might stop a TD42 [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
“Carry a spare & a speciality McTool” that we can hopefully develop here Old School 4.2 Diesel Stinker Legends [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jff45]

I carry a spare solenoid so I need to be sure I have a method of easily (more or less) swapping it out. Once I have that I can be reasonably sure that I’ll never need it :)

[MB]

Better safe than sorry Brother [emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Little budget Holley lift pump finally installed yesterday Gents on ‘Old Grandpa Spec Ute’ and can’t thank ya’ll enough again[emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
Your tired injector pump advice must have been on the money as I’ve thankfully regained another half a gear to finally get back up over the top of the hills home in 4th again just holding dealer mini max 8psi Safari turbo just on [emoji322][emoji898][emoji106][emoji106]
So a quick history for myself too, same hill prior to replacing injectors was off turbo in 3rd and was worried that I might need to grab 2nd but just made it over.
Dyno tested after replacing injectors which clawed back half a gear yet had still dropped 12rwkw in 12 months since last run with then aggressive mud terrains/same diameter so in theory the loss was much higher found with now all terrains on.
At a best guess I’d estimate that you’ve thankfully got it back up over the 60rwkw mark and that’ll do us just fine for now Legends[emoji123] [emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]

EDIT: For honest clarity should’ve added that the last two days in our valley home have been the crispest/coldest air all season but as diesel helpful seasonally known that’s at best 1/2 of new little lift pumps increase thankfully found.
Most noticeable is returned speed of acceleration on the valley flats is almost back but still running a further half a cog uphills tired IP than 12 months ago.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Good when a plan comes together Mark, happy motoring

[MB]

Cheers Philstar Mate [emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Good news to report, thankfully the old Grandpa Speccy GQ survived trailer lugging 2.0ish+Tonne up to work and back with a heap of leftover return gear/products packed on its poor old ute back too [emoji51]
Just over 9,600km and it only used a total of 40L of R4 Rimula X (15W40) [emoji23]
Zero exhaust smoke hot burning headwind hauling up the entire way, convinced now that modern oil new ‘Rimula’ consistencies don’t suit old clackers with far less than optimal piston rings [emoji23]
Will trial soon a Penrite (20W60-Mineral) closest I could find to OEM (50) specs and see if we can stretch out a rebuild longerer [emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Plasnart]

Good news to report, thankfully the old Grandpa Speccy GQ survived trailer lugging 2.0ish+Tonne up to work and back with a heap of leftover return gear/products packed on its poor old ute back too [emoji51]
Just over 9,600km and it only used a total of 40L of R4 Rimula X (15W40) [emoji23]
Zero exhaust smoke hot burning headwind hauling up the entire way, convinced now that modern oil new ‘Rimula’ consistencies don’t suit old clackers with far less than optimal piston rings [emoji23]
Will trial soon a Penrite (20W60-Mineral) closest I could find to OEM (50) specs and see if we can stretch out a rebuild longerer [emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How many k's on that thing mate? You haven't done anything silly by boosting it have ya?

[MB]

Clock says sub 400k Plassy Mate but when I started driving it noticed the odometer was intermittently seizing so who knows [emoji23]
Safari dealer whopping turbo tops 8psi snail trail as per above again:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/08/170.jpg

Poor old fella was once proper cooked (head replaced) before my time at the helm these days [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Plasnart]

Geez thats a lot of oil. And no smoke? 2t tow, 80kmh that thing is happy. You dropping oil on the ground? Using mineral oil?

[MB]

Heaps mate [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
The old boys control rings must be tired but when it’s singing at proper diesel temps up to and around 90C ++ it eats up runny oil like a two stroke mix [emoji51]
Next tests will hopefully tell the true tale of aging diesels and thicker dickhead like me needs at 50+ mineralogy theory’s [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB]

Test results in finally for the old clacker TD42 since changing over to 20W-60 mineral.
400km up and down local highway hills hauling 2.0T for say 80% of that time.
Around 300ml used versus something like 5 times that on both Valvoline & Shell Rimula X R4 15W-40 last tests.
Donk is still obviously tired but can only assume from consumption results that this will hopefully save me a heap of dollars on oil expenditure whilst saving up for a rebuild [emoji1696][emoji1696]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk