Fitting a genuine Nissan turbo to a N/A TD42

[YNOT]

This thread is designed as a guide for those who are thinking about fitting a genuine Nissan turbo kit from a GU TD42T Patrol to a naturally aspirated TD42 GQ or GU.
I have done this conversion myself a few years ago on my first GU, a '99 model wagon, so I speak from experience. Unfortunately I did not take any photo's or keep notes, I was not involved in Patrol forums at the time.
This thread relates to the early GU TD42T kits that had the water cooled turbo, later GU's did not have water cooled turbo's.

The parts you need in the kit
*Turbo and flange gasket
*Exhaust manifold and preferably heat shields as well
*Alloy turbo inlet pipe
*Alloy turbo outlet pipe and hose and hose clamps
*Alloy cross over pipe (sits over the rocker cover) and hose and hose clamps
*Alloy inlet manifold adaptor and gasket
*Air filter housing
*Plastic inlet ducting and hose clamps
*Oil and coolant feed and drain pipes


http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/Turbokit1.jpg
Missing from this pic are the inlet manifold adaptor and exhaust manifold, and hoses that connect the alloy turbo outlet pipe and cross over pipe.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/TD42T1.jpg
Shown assembled.


Other parts you will need
*Full exhaust system
*Other bits that I can't think of right now but will add later!

Tony

[YNOT]

Removing the old unnecessary parts

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/NATD42.jpg

*Remove the air filter assembly including ducting and pre filter if fitted.
*Remove the alloy air fliter adaptor from the inlet manifold.
*Remove the air filter housing mounting brackets from the inlet manifold and rocker cover.
*Remove the exhaust manifold and complete exhaust system.

Tony

[YNOT]

Fitting the good bits

EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Assuming the exhaust manifold studs are in good condition (best practice would be to replace the studs and flange gaskets, I reused both) give the the studs a light smear of copper coat anti seize and bolt the new exhaust manifold in place. At this stage leave the heat shields off.
Notes; GU exhaust manifold will bolt straight up to any TD42 head.

TURBO
Loosely bolt the turbo to the exhaust manifold (again best practice is to fit a new gasket) with 2 nuts.


Things get a bit more complicated here but are still well within the abillities most with basic mechanical knowledge and competence on the tools.

Turbo oil feed
Most naturally aspirated TD42 engine blocks were not drilled and tapped for the oil feed required to feed the turbo. The oil feed line on TD42T taps into a drilling on the front LHS of the engine block, if you fit the turbo onto the manifold with the oil feed pipe attached you should be able to see roughly where that drilling should be. If the drilling is there just remove the blanking plug and fit the banjo bolt with copper washers.
If like me you were not that lucky then you will need to get a custom braided hose made up. I purchased and fitted a T-piece under the oil pressure sender unit on the RHS of the block and ran the braided hose around the front of the engine securing it to the oil pipe that feeds oil to the vacuum pump (red arrow in photo shows the pipe - Photo from "Modded GU"). I used a piece of string to measure what length of hose I needed and got my local hydraulic hose supplier to adapt the right length of hose to the original but now shortened turbo oil feed pipe.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/TD42LHside2.jpg

Tony

[YNOT]

Turbo oil drain

Now for the messy part.
If your lucky (I wasn't) there will be a big blanking plug in the LHS of the engine block roughly inline with exhaust port no.4 and just above the sump, if you have this go down to your local Nissan spare parts and buy the screw in oil drain fitting and fit it here.
If you don't have the blanking plug then you will need to drain the engine oil and remove the sump from the engine. Before you remove the sump have a look at where the oil drain pipe from the turbo comes down and mark on the sump where the fitting will need to be welded/brazed in. It needs to be up high in the LHS of the sump. In the last photo of the previous post you can see where 'Modded GU' has welded his fitting in, I had mine brazed in a similar position but used the original screw in fitting that would normally be screwed into the block.
Refit the sump, from memory there is no gasket, just a bead of silastic.
The oil drain pipe will need to be extended or a length of hose fiited to allow for the extra length of the required to get the drain down to the sump.


Coolant feed
From the factory GU TD42T had the turbo coolant feed pick up bolted (banjo type bolt) to the lower thermostat housing, indicated by yellow arrow in first photo. You can see in the second photo (non turbo thermostat housing) an undrilled boss on the thermostat housing casting, yellow arrow again.
The easiest way to pick up a coolant feed is to do what 'Modded GU' has done and replace the heater hose pick up with a T-piece (indicated by red arrow in photo). You will need some sort of step down to get the diameter down the same as the turbo feed pipe so using a T-piece with a female thread for the horizontal (when fitted) outlet will make life a lot easier. The feed pipe will then need to be cut down and a suitable piece of hose fitted between the pipe and the T-piece.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/TD42T3.jpg

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/TD42frontv2.jpg
Photo by Modded GU

Coolant drain
The coolant drain needs to be connected to the return heater hose indicated in the photo below. It doesn't really matter where but I would put it near the back of the engine bay. Cut the heater hose and fit a T-piece, preferably use a T-piece with a female thread in the bottom of the T so you can adapt down to the same size as the turbo coolant drain pipe. The pipe will need to have the banjo fitting on the end cut off and a length of braided hose fixed to it, I got my hydraulic hose shop to do this for me.
If you are working on an early GU with a naturally aspirated TD42 you may find as I did that there is already a small T-piece in the heater hose near the firewall. The T-piece on mine was not being used for anything and was blanked off with a rubber cap, I simply removed the cap and fitted the hose straight on and secured with a hose clamp.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/NATD422.jpg

Tony

[YNOT]

Once you get this far most of the hard work is done. You can now properly fit the turbo to the exhaust manifold and fit the heat shields. The inlet ducting from the turbo to the inlet manifold can now be fitted and secured.


Air filter
The air box from either a TD42T or a ZD30 can be used, the base of the airboxes (filter housings) is the same and will fit neatly in the front left corner of the engine bay, but you may need to drill one or two holes for the mounting bolts.

If you have the TD42T air box and ducting as shown in the first post then you can just bolt it all together. The plastic ducting will have a fitting that the PCV hose can connect to, though you may need to source a length of oil resistant hose.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/SafariAutechengine.jpg
The photo above shows where the PCV hose attaches to the inlet ducting if you have a TD42T airbox and ducting. This is a very rare GQ Safari Autech with factory fitted TD42T.


My kit didn't come with an airbox or plastic ducting so I found a ZD30 airbox with airflow meter housing still attached(some say the ZD30 airbox lid has better air flow) and made my intake ducting from parts I purchased at QLD diesel spares. From memory I needed a 3" 45 degree rubber elbow (to fit onto the air flow meter housing), a 3" to 2.5" steel reducer which I painted black, then a 2.5" 90 degree rubber elbow to connect the reducer to the alloy turbo inlet pipe.
That still left me with nowhere to attach the PCV hose. To get around that I utilized the now unused airflow meter sensor hole. I made a blanking plate to cover the hole and had a fitting welded to it for the hose to attach to, it required a 90 degree fitting.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/ZD30AFM.jpg
The photo above shows the position of the AFM sensor that I replaced with a blanking plate and adaptor for the PCV hose. Unfortunately I did not take ANY engine photo's of my TD42 after I turbo'd it.

Tony

[YNOT]

Inlet ducting
Fitting the alloy intake ducting between the turbo and the intake manifold is pretty well self explanatory so I'll just add a few notes instead.
There are 2 different intake manifold adaptors, one has a overboost pressure relief vale that will vent at about 14Psi (first photo), the other does not (second photo). If you plan to wind up the boost from the standard 7Psi then the adaptor without the valve is preferable. Don't worry if yours does have the PRV, it's not difficult to find screw in blanking plugs to replace them, try hydraulics stores for them.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/TD42T2v2.jpg

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/TD42T2001top3-1.jpg

You will notice on the piece of ducting that sits over the rocker cover that it has a hose barb screwed in the front of it. On TD42T engines the hose that connects here goes to the injector pump aneroid/boost compensator. Naturally aspirated TD42 injector pumps don't have aneroids so this is the perfect location to hook up your boost gauge.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/Autechenginefront2.jpg

Exhaust
If you're going to the trouble and expense of fitting a turbo to your Patrol do yourself a favour and fit a 3" exhaust including dump pipe at the same time. While it is possible to connect the turbo to the standard exhaust it will be so restrictive and choke the engine to the point that you will be left wondering why you wasted your time and money fitting the turbo. Let it breathe and feel the full benefits of the turbo.
Replacing the standard dump pipe (the first bit of exhaust that bolts directly to the back of the turbine housing) with a 3" DP will let the turbo start to spool up/start creating useful boost pressure at much lower revs. The standard DP has an internal diameter of under 2". My turbo'd TD42 with 3" exhaust had useful boost from 1200rpm.
Photo of standard DP to be added tomorrow. I'll also put up a pic of the "racing" exhaust I made!

If you are fitting this turbo kit to an early GU then an off the shelf GU 3" exhaust is a perfect bolt up fit.
If yours is a GQ then you can still use an off the shelf GU 3" exhaust but it may need small modifications to stop it hitting the floor over the back axle.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/3inchexhaust.jpg
Above is a complete 3" mandrel bent exhaust WITH dump pipe available new on EBay (from Scotts Rods) for $699
Tony

[YNOT]

Tuning

Tony

[YNOT]

Obviously this thread is a work in progress, I'm putting in as much detail as I can remember and finding and modifying photo's as I go which all takes time.

Tony

[YNOT]

If you're putting together a turbo kit and either can't find a TD42T/ZD30 airbox or want something a bit better, consider one of these;

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/patroldoctaairboxintd42.jpg

Made and sold by Patroldocta (http://www.patroldocta.com.au/custom_engineering.html) and selling for $415.

Tony

[AB]

Thanks a million Tony. This will be a huge help for me mate and I can add photos later on too. If you need more posts added then delete this one. I'll read this properly tomorrow!!!

[MudRunnerTD]

Nice work Tony,

This was a project of mine over a couple of years on ebay. i kept an eye on stuff and every time a bit came up i grabbed it at the right price. I was left with only an Exhaust manifold and a few oil lines and i was ready to bolt up including a top mounted intercooler.

I ended up loosing patient and the lovely missus let me spend the tax check on an MTQ system so i put it all back on ebay as a near complete kit and made a little profit!! ;)

These parts are available and your thread will become the missing link for guys wanting to have a go.

Just another quality thread by Mr YNOT! Good job mate.

[Timbo]

This is great Tony.. many people will be in your debt!

[AB]

Great read again so far Tony. I'll check out my block tonight and pray I have the plugs on the block...lol

[AB]

I see you added more Tony, thanks for this!

I forgot to ask if I am getting the heat shield with the manifold and I assume my standard heat shield won't fit over the td42t manifold?

[YNOT]

I see you added more Tony, thanks for this!

I forgot to ask if I am getting the heat shield with the manifold and I assume my standard heat shield won't fit over the td42t manifold?

I did add more and was about to start the next bit when Benny woke up, that kind of put an end to it for now!

No the standard heatshield won't fit. Just get him to send everything he can find that he has taken off.

Tony

[AB]

He sent it all off yesterday so fingers crossed!!!

[G-ForceCrew]

Hi Tony,
Same as AB just outstanding information and detail. Thanks heaps. Just delete this post to.

Kel

[AB]

Ive been watching this thread like a hawk Tony...lol.

Good news for me in regards to the boost guage location over the ducting!

Turbo should arrive tomrorow!!!!

[YNOT]

Ive been watching this thread like a hawk Tony...lol.

Good news for me in regards to the boost guage location over the ducting!

Turbo should arrive tomrorow!!!!

I'm getting there slowly with the thread, not much left now.

It will be interesting to see what arrives with the turbo.

Tony

[AB]

I'm getting there slowly with the thread, not much left now.

It will be interesting to see what arrives with the turbo.

Tony

Yeah, a box full of nothing...lol

[AB]

I just realised there is a part that I am missing for this.

Do you see in the top right of this picture I am missing the adaptor that will go from the inlet manifold elbow that will connect to the rubber which will connect to the cross over pipe.

That's frustrating!!!

Has anyone got one of these...lol
6212

[AB]

Also I wouldnt say that I am the greatest welder in the world and definetly do not trust myself welding the oil drain onto the sump.

I might take the sump off and take it to a pro to weld up nice!

But....Just throwing this out there and by all means Tony or anyone else feel free to shut me down with this comment...lol

Below is a picture of my oil drain pipe.

Would it be possible to take the sump off, drill two holes in the sump for the bolts, put captive nuts/tack weld nuts to inside sump and then bolt on sump including sillastic or a heat protection silicone base product and tighten the living hell out of it???

Could also weld the plate on the outside too possibly???

Again, please feel free to shut me down!!!

6213
6214

[AB]

I just spoke to Patrolapart this morning and they seem to just punch a hole through the sump and screw in a barb and then weld over the barb so they don't have to take the sump off.

Apparently they do this on all of their Safari turbo's.

They mention the punch doesnt put metal in and creates a good bite for the thread to attach.

Has anyone done this or have any comments on it?

[YNOT]

6215The flange end of the piece you are holding bolts up to the turbo, the pipe end goes to the sump.


Which part are you missing? From what I can see the only parts missing are the short lengths of hose that join the alloy pieces together. If it's the piece in this photo I'm fairly sure you can use the original adaptor you unbolted from your inlet manifold to fit the 90 degree piece.
http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/TD42T2v3.jpg

Tony

[AB]

Thanks Tony, yes thats the part I am missing...

As usual you are right mate!

The diamters are slightly different though.

Inlet manifold elbow joiner to hose from my N/A TD42 is 65mm OD

Cross over pipe is 58mm OD so I'll need to get some kind of hose reducer to clamp over both.

I just rung the bloke and he said he is using that piece...lol..He said he may have one in the shed so fingers crossed.

In regards to the flange end...lol...Yep, thought that was the piece that bolts into the block and again your right mate, that goes in turbo...Have another beer AB!!!

6234
6233

Actually could you use a thin hose piece that is 60mm NB and is 2.5mm thick and slip that over the cross over pipe ( to gain 65mm OD) and then use a full length hose over that which is 65mm NB and hose clamp them both together?

[YNOT]

Give Nizzbits a call and find out how much to buy the right part.

Tony

[AB]

Give Nizzbits a call and find out how much to buy the right part.

Tony

Thanks Tony will do. I rung all my other suppliers in Vic and no one has that part.

[AB]

Well, good news!

The guy has a spare inlet manifold adaptor to cross over pipe 4 bolt flange so he's sending it down now!

I think I'm almost there. I just need a couple of banjo bolts, few T's, hose and possibly some custom pipe.

I will check out Plassy's set up on his when he turns up next week!

[growler2058]

That's excellent mate I'm very envious :-) hahaha

[AB]

The oil feed line on TD42T taps into a drilling on the front LHS of the engine block, if you fit the turbo onto the manifold with the oil feed pipe attached you should be able to see roughly where that drilling should be. If the drilling is there just remove the blanking plug and fit the banjo bolt with copper washers.

I think I got very lucky Tony!!!

Can you or anyone else please confirm that this is the pick up for the oil feed?

[YNOT]

I think I got very lucky Tony!!!

Can you or anyone else please confirm that this is the pick up for the oil feed?

I couldn't say for certain. If you can get the plug out see if oil comes out, if it does try to borrow an oil pressure gauge to screw in there and see what pressure you get with the engine running.

Tony

[AB]

Thanks Tony I'm pretty sure It's the spot as in the first post of this thread looks exactly the right spot.

I'll get it checked out to be sure!

Just below port 2 off to the left a whisker...lol

[AB]

Hi Tony, one last question...lol....Well maybe not the last!



The coolant drain needs to be connected to the return heater hose indicated in the photo below. It doesn't really matter where but I would put it near the back of the engine bay.


Could I replace the bolt thats under the port 6 in the below photo (green circle) for the return water?

Have you seen anyone do this at all?

[AB]

Incase anyone is following this thread I just thought you all should know do not put the oil drain from the turbo into the vaccuum pump from the alternator LHS side of the block.

A lot of people have done this, a lot of turbo companies do this and a lot people mention it is ok and they have not had problems.

It may be true and may not have any problems but there is a huge risk of the oil backing up and sever damage to your turbo / engine, especially for low mounts like mine.

Tap into the sump as per Tony's post at the start of the thread.

[AB]

I couldn't say for certain. If you can get the plug out see if oil comes out, if it does try to borrow an oil pressure gauge to screw in there and see what pressure you get with the engine running.

Tony

Just to confirm for the thread Tony, that is the spot for oil feed on TD42 N/A but the standard pipe fitting from the TD42T may not fit and will need custom. I have heard of one person who managed to use it by slightly bending the pipe over the engine mount but the bend needs to be spot on to line up to the plug....I'll see how I go anyway...lol

[YNOT]

It's worth a shot (for the oil feed) AB. Worst case if you get the bend in the wrong spot and can't get it to fit then you're back to getting a custom braided hose made up, nothing to lose by trying the way I look at it.

Tony

[AB]

Tony, I just spent an hour at Pirtek with a very helpful person in regards to oil and water lines for my Ht-18 turbo.

I will do a full write up about it with photos but you may have to copy the info into your threads you started as a lot needs to be done...

Photos and more info to come when I get it back later in the week but from the top of my head this is what we are doing...



Water feed: Tapping into original GU water feed pipe at the thermostat end where you pointed out in previous post.
Water drain: is the same set up as Safari turbo except Banjo bolts are different.
Oil Feed: The original banjo fitting that goes into the GU block is different size plug from the GQ TD42 so bending the pipe over will not work. I will now utilize the oil feed flange connection that comes off the turbo as there is no thread inside the hole of the turbo. Rosscos Sarafi turbo does have a thread. I am using the original flange mount oil feed pipe and tapping into the line with a flared end and using braided line to connect to block.
Oil Drain: The original oil drain pipe is too big (larger then standard 3/8 BSP) for a proper hose to connect to the sump. The oil drain mounts to the turbo the same as the oil feed above using a flange mount and there is no thread inside the hole to screw in a fitting. I am cutting the end of the oil drain off and fitting a thread and hose fitting inside the original pipe to reduce down to 3/8 BSP to connect into sump as per all other aftermarket turbo set ups.

[AB]

Thought I better put some pictures up of a standard GU factory turbo hooked up to a GQ TD42 N/A.

I have used most of the existing oil and water lines off the GU with some custom braided lines. See below for pictures and explanations...

[AB]

Here are some more photos of existing GU water and oil lines and custom safari lines.

Pictures below show how I used the existing GU lines - cut and tap in braided lines or flared pipe to attach hoses, etc...

698769886989

[AB]

I started to fit my factory TD42T onto my GQ TD42 N/A today. Tony, feel free to grab any pictures and info you want to add it to the main thread... Learnt a lot today...lol...Especially what things you should bolt on first...LMAO

Ok, photo below of a standard GQ TD42 N/A engine bay standard. (except for the vortex air intake for the 4" snorkel...lol)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/45.jpg Below is a photo reference only of a TD42 N/A manifold and a GU TD42T manifold. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/46.jpg I noticed 2 of the bolts were already loose, you might want to check over your engine every now and then as you can see below from the previous owner there has been 20 years of rubbing and elongated holes.... Pretty scary... http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/47.jpg Air filter off, manifold remove, exhaust and dump pipe removed and new manifold gaskets installed. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/48.jpg OIL DRAIN = I was supposed to tap into the plug on the LHS of the engine bay for the oil feed. This plug was seized and could not be removed. tried every trick under the sun and just ended up bending tools as below...

Stupidly started to grind the slot in the engine mount for the braided hose to fit in and then stopped half way through grinding to check the plug.... LESSON 1 = CHECK PLUG BEFORE GRINDING! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/49.jpg Manifold installed and double check turbo arrangement... http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/50.jpg Note: Sway bar needs to be removed to take out exhaust, unless I missed something??? It's a 1 minute job anyway...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/51.jpg Ok, so I can't tap into the plug for the oil feed so thanks to Tony's advice at the start of the thread I will tap into the oil sensor on the other side of the block (RHS). Below is a photo of the sensor with a new T piece for the oil feed....Pirtek sells these... http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/52.jpg I go the original GU oil feed connection and braided hose and extended it to wrap around the engine and connect to the RHS of the block (oil sensor).

Because I already had the GU fitting and flange I just rotated the flange and ran the braided hose around the back of the engine towards the windscreen, just below the rocket cover. This worked a treat and the rotated the oil feed flange just fits inbetween the turbo and the water feed pipe....Very very lucky, see below pic of how close it came....meant to be!!! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/53.jpg Another turbo photo below loosely bolted on to check lines and postion, etc... http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/54.jpg Water feed T piece installed and ready for action... http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/55.jpg

Here's a photo of one too many cranks and busted the bolt on the rocket cover...lol...I was pretty mad after that!!!! Also found one of the studs a bit munched!http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/56.jpg Photo below shows the water feed line installed....GU original water feed pipe was used from turbo up to the end of the rocket cover then I flared the pipe and connected the pipe to the T piece as shown in other pic just with a hose....Easy job and works a treat. NOTE: You can use the end tab to screw down to the rocket cover because the pipe pulls up to the T piece....Doesn't matter anyway http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/57.jpg NOTE: See below photo...If you are undertaking this job make sure you bolt the water drain hose to the block on the rear LHS """BEFORE""" you bolt the turbo and manifold on. This was a nightmare and is extremely hard to get access. I had to sacrifice my 19mm spanner....By the way, this worked a treat! Also, don't forget to put a bucket under the car to catch the water that comes out. Also avoid rocking the car for even more fantastic water that pours all over your shed and your tools and your clothes when your under the car...Anyways...Moving on....LMAO http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/58.jpg http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/59.jpg

[AB]

Now It's time for Macgyver...lol

Below is the oil drain pipe hose going from the turbo to the sump (Sump plug threaded already). notice how the hose is kinked which will restrict oil draining. Apparently there is a proper hose that is pre bent for this....You may have to go direct to Nissan to get a hose that is pre bent on 45 degree angles or you can Macgyver style as per the other pics further down.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/60.jpg

Simply cut a small length of copper pipe....Spend some time sanding the sharp edges off so it does not pierce the rubber hose...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/61.jpg

Now, insert that into the OIL drain hose to stop it kinking...Ensure you slide the copper pipe to the exact spot the kink will be using a screw driver.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/62.jpg

See below....MUCH BETTER!!!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/63.jpg

What is this???

What is that filter thing that runs into the inlet manifold flange????

I asked some pretty knowledgeable Patrol owners today and no one knew...

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/64.jpg

Bolted the turbo up, put all the oil and water lines in and ready for the air filter assembly and 3" exhaust...Coming soon!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/08/65.jpg

[AB]

Installed boost gauge today and did a DIY thread here (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?5483-How-to-install-Pyro-and-Boost-gauges-to-a-GQ&p=124232#post124232) about it....

[AB]

Air filter in with a 4" reducer to 3" from snorkel to air filter inlet.

This was a nightmare job to chop the reducer and snorkel elbows down, trim off the flange on the air filter housing all within a 65mm gap.

Breather hose connected and now just need to do the pyro gauge and fit the exhaust!!!!

[AB]

One more, just incase...

[YNOT]

Coming together nicely but crikey mate you coulda' resized the photo's!

Put a hose clamp around the outside of the oil drain hose where the piece of copper tube is to stop the tube from moving.

I don't think that thing on the inlet manifold flange is standard, I've never seen one fitted to a Patrol before.

Tony

[AB]

I just resized them then....lol

yeah Ive never seen that either....What do you think it is???

[YNOT]

I just resized them then....lol

yeah Ive never seen that either....What do you think it is???

It looks like some sort of filter, how many hoses were connected to it?

Tony

[AB]

It looks like some sort of filter, how many hoses were connected to it?

Tony

2 hoses that were already cut.

[Timbo]

Good stuff Andy! Always fun working on cars isn't it?

[AB]

Good stuff Andy! Always fun working on cars isn't it?

Loving it timbo!

[starck]

Looks great. One question: how to add more diesel while turbo pushes more air? Of course if one wants to add turbo to roto-pump engine.
I have turbo with in-line-pump engine and works great but some of my bodies here tried to upgade TD42 and effect is not that good. Believe because of this diesel problem IMO.

[AB]

Looks great. One question: how to add more diesel while turbo pushes more air? Of course if one wants to add turbo to roto-pump engine.
I have turbo with in-line-pump engine and works great but some of my bodies here tried to upgade TD42 and effect is not that good. Believe because of this diesel problem IMO.

You will need to upgrade the injector pump and or a boost compensator I believe. The standard injection pump won't handle the extra fuel needed.

I think I will be ok with mine only running 11PSI. I have heard of people tweaking the original injector pump but I am not too knowledagble with turbo's so hopefully someone else can give you better advice.

[YNOT]

For mild boost applications like AB will be running (to begin with) you can get away with winding up the fuel to take advantage of the additional air the turbo is pushing into the cylinders but there is a limit to how far you can wind up the fuel. As you wind the fuel up it raises the idle speed so you have to wind back the throttle stop for closed throttle, once you run out of throttle stop adjustment you need to look at modifying the pump if you want to add any more fuel.

Tony

[Johson Jia]

THANKS,TONY,i am a turbo seller from China,i don't know exactly how to tun a turbo to PATROL Y61,TD42T engine before,after seeing photos you uploaded,i know clear,your done good job for evryone here.tks again.

[Woof]

Looks great. One question: how to add more diesel while turbo pushes more air? Of course if one wants to add turbo to roto-pump engine.
I have turbo with in-line-pump engine and works great but some of my bodies here tried to upgade TD42 and effect is not that good. Believe because of this diesel problem IMO.

My GQ has a modified fuel pump, it to is a TD42 with a DTS turbo and custom intercooler.... I am currently running 20psi boost.

[starck]

Ok Dogman! Thanks for info.
What is Your modification all about. Your pump is roto one, or?
RaV

[GU_Nemesis]

Awesome stuff, thanks heaps for this info. Will be doing this in the near future.

Scotty

[07gokhangq]

Hıı;
Single word : Perfect !!!!! This is my dream :)
Performance is now how? Do you have a problem ?

How can I find the original kit ?Can you give information
thanks

[AB]

Hıı;
Single word : Perfect !!!!! This is my dream :)
Performance is now how? Do you have a problem ?

How can I find the original kit ?Can you give information
thanks

Welcome to the forum mate, don't forget to put up a intro about yourself in the introductions section.

Theres a few different people involved in this thread. Who are you directing this question to?

Putting turbo in a naturally aspirated 4.2 is the best thing you can do, performance is increased dramatically and the engine loves it!

[07gokhangq]

Thank you AB...

waiting for assistance on this issue, please

[growler2058]

Thank you AB...

waiting for assistance on this issue, please

Jump over to the intros and say gday to everyone mate you'll get a better response. something we ask all members to do, cheers

[AB]

Thank you AB...

waiting for assistance on this issue, please

Hey mate, so what exactly is your issue?

What information are you after?

[Dam355]

Love this thread - I am following this as I am fitting a GU turbo to my NA GU.

Just a few questions -

1. I have a GU HT18 that does not have water cooling. I assume it is from a intercooled GU. Does this mater?
2. Looking for a manifold - cheapest I can get is $600 any idea where a can get one cheaper.
3. Since I bought the turbo with 3" dump pipe and pipe to air filter for only $200 - would I be better to buy one of these TD05 16g and a high mount manifold to suit. Manifold - $295 Turbo $695.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-TD05H-16G-Nissan-TD42-Patrol-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-Housing?item=290846313640&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p51 97.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%2 6po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5404158506224834647# ht_2965wt_922

Will this turbo be much better than the standard GU one as I am only going to run 8psi.

Cheers.

[Dam355]

Anyone - must be someone that knows?
Cheers.

[AB]

Hey mate my personal opinion is the water and oil cooled turbos are far better. Can be a bit of an arguement with some people saying it overheats their cooling system but not the case in my experience.

Hopefully someone else can help you out with your other questions but I would be ringing around for the manifold. Patrolapart in Lilydale, Vic.....Hall 4x4 in Bayswater, Vic......Ebay and Gumtree second handys, wreckers, etc...

[Dam355]

Yeah found a manifold from a wreckers for $350. He has a turbo too so will see if it a water cooled one. Taa

[Oggittyboogitty]

currently undertaking this very modification at the moment, thanks a million for the input to this thread gentlemen, it has been a great reference of information, cheers again for the info once again :)

[AB]

currently undertaking this very modification at the moment, thanks a million for the input to this thread gentlemen, it has been a great reference of information, cheers again for the info once again :)

It was a fun learning curve mate, feel free to ask any questions If you get stuck.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app

[Bulldozen]

I quickly read through this thread I been trying to find out were the safe spot to punch a hole in the sump for return is any help will make my day lol

[AB]

I quickly read through this thread I been trying to find out were the safe spot to punch a hole in the sump for return is any help will make my day lol

Can you see the location on my photos?

I'm miles away from my car but ill take some photos tonight if you can't find it.

Up higher on the sump away from where the oil will sit.

[OldMav]

Love this thread - I am following this as I am fitting a GU turbo to my NA GU.

Just a few questions -

1. I have a GU HT18 that does not have water cooling. I assume it is from a intercooled GU. Does this mater?
2. Looking for a manifold - cheapest I can get is $600 any idea where a can get one cheaper.
3. Since I bought the turbo with 3" dump pipe and pipe to air filter for only $200 - would I be better to buy one of these TD05 16g and a high mount manifold to suit. Manifold - $295 Turbo $695.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-TD05H-16G-Nissan-TD42-Patrol-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-Housing?item=290846313640&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3D LVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5404158506224834647#ht_296 5wt_922

Will this turbo be much better than the standard GU one as I am only going to run 8psi.

Cheers.

With out trying to explain the benefits over the HT18. its probably best to refer you to another forum where its members have done all the homework for you with pros and cons, sizes, how to with the why's and results etc. 3208 post of it so be prepared to have a long read.. but worth the effort if a cheap new proven upgrade over a tied HT18 is what you are intending.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-55/hmmm-td05h-16g-ebay-td42-80484/

[Bulldozen]

Yeah I can roughly see it do you reckon I could get away with punching a hole through whilst donk still in car??

[dakka1]

great thread guys

only question I have is how far should u turn the fuel screw for the intial test drive or the drive until you can get it either A dyno'd or B put on a sniffer. I know this would prob depend on how much boost you would be running buts lets just say in my eyes this is the most critical part if it runs to lean things will melt.

cheers guys

[Winnie]

in my eyes this is the most critical part if it runs to lean things will melt.

That's true for petrol but the opposite for diesel. You will do no harm running a lean mix, you will just be low on power.
Do you have a pyro gauge?

[Bloodyaussie]

Bump........................!

[AB]

Bump........................!

What is it muffins?

[Alitis007]

What is it muffins?

BA alone time in the wc me thinks

[AB]

Bump for dakka

[dakka1]

cheers dude very very helpful. on ya mate

[dakka1]

just a couple of questions.

is the ht-18 bushed or bearing as im trying to work out if I need to run a restrictor or not???

also if I cant find the water lines for the banjo fittings carn u run and flared hose fittings???

[torrietunna]

Interesting read , well done might even do it myself one day thanks

[mrsticky]

Too all of you who asked the questions and those that answered a big thanks Steve M Yandina QLD

[Noosta]

What did you end up doing with your oil drain?

[AB]

What did you end up doing with your oil drain? I just punched a hole in the sump and put a bung on.

Although it's been fine for many years even through the shittiest corrugated roads Australia has to offer the proper way would be to take the sump off and weld a bung on.

It did save a lot of time though ;)

[Bloodyaussie]

My sump was removed and a proper fitting welded in..

[Noosta]

Cheers guys, I'm trying to find a complete ht18 from someone but so far have only found a highflowed one on a top mount with top mount inter cooler, would the installation still be pretty similar if possible at all?

[Noosta]

Also would a highflowed ht18 need a bigger pump?

[Woof]

Also would a highflowed ht18 need a bigger pump?

Hey mate, slip over here http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/forumdisplay.php?2-Introductions and post up an introduction, it is something we like all new members to do before asking for assistance so we can welcome you, that way everyone gets a nice warm fuzzy feeling

[Noosta]

Hey mate, slip over here http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/forumdisplay.php?2-Introductions and post up an introduction, it is something we like all new members to do before asking for assistance so we can welcome you, that way everyone gets a nice warm fuzzy feeling
Done thanks mate

[Noosta]

Sorry for the 21 questions lol
What do I ask for when purchasing the fitting for the sump?
Tia

[billzo]

hey mate just wondering where the oil feed was on the block?