Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

I started buying the parts for this upgrade in my 1997 GQ LWB. The engine has 7000klm on it, so took the plunge and started buying the parts for the upgrade in Dec 2018. The list of components seemed to grow and apart from a complete conversion of the front accessories from Vee belt to 8 rib serpentine - this was a custom upgrade - normally 6 rib, then fluid damper on crank, then timing chain upgrade to gears, and of course the latest Harrop 2300 top mount blower and a custom alloy billet crank pulley as well, so no rubber elements to perish.

Time has been scarce, but finally booked in some time to do the work. I approached two shops in melb but they were not keen to tie up a bay for a week, so decided to do it myself.

Day 1 went well, no issues so far apart from having to cut the lower radiator hose, simply would not shift. Started the strip down of the engine components which is straight forward as they are neat sub assemblies. The only issue I see is reconnection of a/c. p/s and vac as these are on opposite sides to what was earlier. I am also upgrading to the Hydraboost unit for the brakes, so guess this will be a pain for Marks 4x4 to some degree.

I get chunks of 3 days at a time as working a FIFO roster, so this will probably take 3 rosters to complete.

[PeeBee]

Having trouble uploading pics.

[Winnie]

Nice work Phil and very exciting that you have decided to do it yourself. I'm very much looking forward to reading how you get along with it all and then to see it for real, gonna be tough as!

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[PeeBee]

Nice work Phil and very exciting that you have decided to do it yourself. I'm very much looking forward to reading how you get along with it all and then to see it for real, gonna be tough as!

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Thanks Chris, I just want some grunt, not a quarter mile racer, but a bit of muscle. Its going to be sitting at 16psi, which is where the majority of the turbo's sit, so I expect good reliability and fuel around the 18 to 20 flatline I reckon per 100. Can't post any pics, trying to determine if my end or not. Probably operator error again. Only real trepidation is the swap over of the chain to gears, but I suspect it will go well. I want the front end stuff sorted by Wed so I can have a day off before returning to site

[0-TJ-0]

Will be following this with interest :)

[mudski]

Nice. Harrop is one of my biggest customers. We supply them with all their belts and hoses. Their r&d in their products is second to none.

[MB]

Good work Philstar mate!
Don’t forget to add to the Chev thread too, maybe just a link in there back to here for others following there.


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[PeeBee]

So, day 2, who's idea was this??? Finally got the front end motor stuff off by noon, then split the pump off, split the casing to get to the timing chain. Chain looked fine, anyway, off it all came, clocked the crank and cam ans assembled the Leroy diesel gearset - can't get the idlers to mesh, clocking must be off by a poofteenth, but lined everything up using a plumb bob and cotton string. Have dropper Leroy Diesel a note, more to get confirmation that is me, so tomorrow I hope it comes good.

[Ben-e-boy]

Can I ask why a blower and not a turbo?

[0-TJ-0]

So, day 2, who's idea was this??? Finally got the front end motor stuff off by noon, then split the pump off, split the casing to get to the timing chain. Chain looked fine, anyway, off it all came, clocked the crank and cam ans assembled the Leroy diesel gearset - can't get the idlers to mesh, clocking must be off by a poofteenth, but lined everything up using a plumb bob and cotton string. Have dropper Leroy Diesel a note, more to get confirmation that is me, so tomorrow I hope it comes good.

Did you sort your picture uploading out?

[PeeBee]

Can I ask why a blower and not a turbo?

Heat sink under the bonnet. GQ's dont cope at all with a turbo on this motor - was not even an option, would not sell/fit one, so went N?A to begin with then the blower.

[PeeBee]

78779787807878178779

OK so needed to do one at a time. Pics from yesterday. Dodged a bullet with the Burgoynes radiator smash up I reckon.

[PeeBee]

Well, have come to a grinding halt. There are two timing gear sets and I have the wrong one. The DB2 is for a mechanical pump, which I have. The DB4 is for an electronic pump and contains what is called a reluctor wheel which is a modified unit off the original setup - being thinner. It is now apparent I have a reluctor wheel in my assy as its used for the tacho pick-up, so placed order for the parts - reluctor wheel and extended key this morning - 10 days ex USA. So, 2 steps forward, 1 step back. I will start stripping the top of the engine instead after taking photos of everything. Ah yes, its soooooo good to practice isn't it???

[PeeBee]

OK, moved on today, inlet manifold off, attacking the injectors/pumps tomorrow. Car looks like a garage monument to craziness, but I am sure it will come good. Bit concerned initially about the whole timing issue and gears last night, but watched a video on it today, all good i reckon - will see how many nuts and bolts I have left over at jobs end.78782[/ATTACH [ATTACH=CONFIG]78783 78784 78782 78785

So couple of questions for the diesel mechanics out there, what are the smaller central ports for down each bank, and what are the two canister things on the back of the block adjacent to the firewall?

[nissannewby]

Small ports I think are used when EGR was fitted hence being black. Non EGR intake manifolds just don't have a port so it gets blanked off. I could be wrong here.

The small canisters. The one in the valley is where the distributor would go on a petrol car. I am not sure what the arrangement is on the top of this. There is a shaft under it that drives the oil pump. The other one looks like a vac switch. Possibly used for something when the engine had a ds4 pump on. But anyone that does 6.5 conversions over here don't seem to like the electronic stanadyne instead swapping them for the mechanical ds2 injector pump.

[PeeBee]

Small ports I think are used when EGR was fitted hence being black. Non EGR intake manifolds just don't have a port so it gets blanked off. I could be wrong here.

The small canisters. The one in the valley is where the distributor would go on a petrol car. I am not sure what the arrangement is on the top of this. There is a shaft under it that drives the oil pump. The other one looks like a vac switch. Possibly used for something when the engine had a ds4 pump on. But anyone that does 6.5 conversions over here don't seem to like the electronic stanadyne instead swapping them for the mechanical ds2 injector pump.

Many thanks, Poindexter has commented about the EGR on another site also, will ask the question of BD tomorrow as would prefer to know what they are and if they are the sort of thing that could stop the vehicle if they broke/stopped working.

[Ben-e-boy]

While you're waiting for parts, you should get the die grinder out and port stuff. Those intake runners look too small :tongue::groupwave:

The intake manifold is definitely too small :biggrin:

[MB]

poindexter Ralph mate, little help please for old mate, same timing gears Leyroy?
Get and give back share knowledge please good man?


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[PeeBee]

While you're waiting for parts, you should get the die grinder out and port stuff. Those intake runners look too small :tongue::groupwave:

The intake manifold is definitely too small :biggrin:

I will pull out the verniers tomorrow and have a look. I have just been reading about this last week, will compare with the s/c manifold.

[poindexter]

Yep, same timing gears

[poindexter]

crank pulley!!!!!

https://whipplesuperchargers.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=435

[PeeBee]

Very nice-looking pulleys, WOW 16 rib, cant imagine the HP that one would be set up for. I ended up buying an aluminium 8 rib off Leroy Diesel to replace the rubber and steel unit BD supplied -reckon its a third of the weight.

[PeeBee]

I also ordered the reluctor wheel and modified key for mine, together with the harmonic balancer spanner so the crank nut can be properly torqued up from Leroy Diesel in USA. I found a supplier for the crank socket also on ebay, so when I get back to Melb after this next rotation I will whip the injectors out - bought a deep 30mm socket yesterday for the task, then start on the timing of the gears and swap over the big pump at the same time. After that, it's Supercharger fitting!!!!www.ebay.com.au/itm/PROFORM-BIG-BLOCK-CHEV-CRANK-SOCKET-1-2-PR66899/152159286365?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[MB]

Crikey Ralph mate, what on earth are you working on behind the scenes there poindexter , please do share trials & tribulations Bloke!


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[Ben-e-boy]

How much power/torque is it going to make after this?

[poindexter]

Crikey Ralph mate, what on earth are you working on behind the scenes there poindexter , please do share trials & tribulations Bloke!


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I'm not doing anything behind the scenes.
Saw this pulley, but, 6 holes means it won't fit.
Oh well, need to keep looking.
Got back from 2 weeks in Darwin, so will check up on progress this week.
Just had the transfer case done with 43% reduction gears, so hopefully there is plenty to see, will keep you guys informed

[PeeBee]

I'm not doing anything behind the scenes.
Saw this pulley, but, 6 holes means it won't fit.
Oh well, need to keep looking.
Got back from 2 weeks in Darwin, so will check up on progress this week.
Just had the transfer case done with 43% reduction gears, so hopefully there is plenty to see, will keep you guys informed

Leroy Diesels does a nice 6 and 8 rib solid aluminium pulley ralph, I have the 8 rib, beautifully made. Check out their website.

[MB]

Good work on the 43% LR transfer gears mate, my current 60’s albeit perfect for a 4.2 feel a wee bit too slow on the old 6.5NA 550rpm idle clacker, damn thing needs serious acceleration down rocky hills to not stop/slide :-)
Once kindly got to drive Phil’s Optimiser NA new stock beast with 85’s and crikey it was torquey, fell asleep driving for a camp poo 20m away :-)


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[PeeBee]

OK, back on break for 5 days, into the car again this morning, dropped the new radiator off to a guy in Bayswater for another socket - low water alarm, Pick up modified alternator next Wednesday. So disconnection of injector lines from injectors, 3 hrs, mother of a job, so tight, then out with old IP, swapped over lines, Then attacked injectors, 7 out in 45 minutes, last one against the firewall on drivers side, 4 hrs - 2 custom tools, trip to total tools for a different 30mm deep socket, smaller diameter, man alive, that last one is a nightmare, but all out, so onto the timing gears in the morning, correct parts arrived from US yesterday luckily. Prize for tomorrow is timing gears, covers and 3 off accessory plates in - see how I go.

[PeeBee]

OK pretty happy with today, got not quite as far as I wanted, but decided to seek some input from Brunswick tomorrow as this puzzle is totally non intuitive bolts and studs and ...... anyway few picks, all timed with new pump in place, timing gears, fluid damper, billet crank pulley.78886788877888878889788897889078891

Timing gears took about an hour to get the mesh right, tedious, but all correct, so expect this won't give me grief down the track.

[PeeBee]

OK, another big one, all the front gear is on, didn't run smoothly, stupid kit issues, anyway, resolved it, just more of my time though. Looking to mount the blower tomorrow, but have to swap out the accelerator cable back to a TD42 from the BD custom - never seems to end. After that, start on the fun stuff of re-routing all the services which are on the total opposite side to the first time - of course, a/c. PS, Vac pump7889478895 Pump installed, lines hooked up, new return hoses, need to bleed it I guess Tried to delect pump shot, yes, lines not connected!

[MudRunnerTD]

Show em ya shiny bits Phil!!! :useless:

:bowdown:

:jawdrop::groupwave:

[0-TJ-0]

Getting there slowly!.. and yes it never ends.

[PeeBee]

Show em ya shiny bits Phil!!! :useless:

:bowdown:

:jawdrop::groupwave:

OK, here is the brute, getting prepped for tomorrow, but a while to go before noise time.7889778897

[PeeBee]

Dont know why two came up, maybe I have twins going on that I didn't realise?

[Winnie]

Dont know why two came up, maybe I have twins going on that I didn't realise?It wouldn't surprise me Phil I reckon you could find room for a pair.

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[MB]

It’s all getting very real now Philstar, top work mate!
Honest question, are the stock GQ engine mount rubbers tuff enough for this added 2300 beast and your twin whopping copper alternators staying on top too?
Reason I truly ask is my lazy arse still hasn’t worked out how to get the ACDelco 38si shed ornament alt hanging off lopsided aligning yet :-(


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[PeeBee]

Mark, I asked about the mounts when I first did the conversion and the only ones they use are the Nissan 4 bolt, on all their conversions, so I reckon they will go the distance. The offset load question, don't know about your case, suspect it would be better than mine as the new brute you have is going to be sitting at worst over a cylinder bank from memory or across the back, where mine is offset, however my 200a unit would weigh maybe 3kg max i reckon, should be fine. I was reading a supercharger manual the other night and there was a perfect driveshaft driven setup on a honda running a belt driven jack shaft to a scroll s/c - so start putting some thoughts together and get it built, amongst the other 500 things going on in your head!

[MB]

Cheers Mate!
Hopefully my old clacker is 4 bolt too from old days BD, will check on the weekend. Just wondered if there may have been a denser compound rubber version possibly needed?
From memory the stock Nissan 4.8 block weighed nearly the same as a 6.5 block bare and know some of their bits were upgraded like brakes etc...


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[PeeBee]

Here you go @MB78898

[MB]

Super precise alignment, love it [emoji106]


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[MudRunnerTD]

OK, here is the brute, getting prepped for tomorrow, but a while to go before noise time.7889778897

Just WOW!!!!!!

[PeeBee]

Mixed day today. S/C on, after having to redrill all the mount holes 3mm larger. Then bonnet would not close. The directive from Brunswick Diesel was I needed a 1" body lift, so after checking with engineer, did the lift, installed the kit and now they say i need a 2" lift to clear the snout. Speaking with VASS engineer tomorrow to suss out my options.
Throttle control has turned into a fiasco, neither Bullet or Brunswick can tell me how it should be configured, with cruise control, so no doubt have to sort this myself, along with all the additional parts and stuffing around to get 'all the bits' - no plans - NFI pack of turkeys. In fact Bullet and Brunswick, can't run them down enough - but thats the end of the rant. I will sort it out without them. Sicks of the lies.78908

[Winnie]

Mixed day today. S/C on, after having to redrill all the mount holes 3mm larger. Then bonnet would not close. The directive from Brunswick Diesel was I needed a 1" body lift, so after checking with engineer, did the lift, installed the kit and now they say i need a 2" lift to clear the snout. Speaking with VASS engineer tomorrow to suss out my options.
Throttle control has turned into a fiasco, neither Bullet or Brunswick can tell me how it should be configured, with cruise control, so no doubt have to sort this myself, along with all the additional parts and stuffing around to get 'all the bits' - no plans - NFI pack of turkeys. In fact Bullet and Brunswick, can't run them down enough - but thats the end of the rant. I will sort it out without them. Sicks of the lies.78908Sorry to hear about the dramas Phil. What's the plan then, if engineer allows it will you go 2" body lift? What about a custom bonnet with an XR8 style bump for clearance?
It looks nice anyway!

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[PeeBee]

Chris, I wanted a car that didn't stand out, 2" lift, bonnet bump,- not really keen, its going thru engineering, and at this rate it will be running on 31's. The annoying thing is total arrogance and ignorance, never heard this before etc BS. After I am told BD have installed 20 S/C kits on GQ's, why cant they get the detail right? Bullet are the same, no instructions of any value. I don't think BD have instructions for anything because they probably can't write. Pathetic.

[PeeBee]

Might have found what I am looking for. Just need to move the scoop a bit forward to suit the clash point78909

[Rossco]

Nice looking GQ apart from that hideous thing. . Sorry to hear the dramas Phil sounds like BD are a bloody nightmare to deal with grrrrrrrr. . .

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[PeeBee]

Yes, they are. I will sort it out.

[PeeBee]

OK, think I have found the solution that does not look too crazy. These guys can make this scoop with a 20mm - 30mm side extension, including the front, so it will clear the nose pulley. Spoke with the guy and he is an old head, so pretty comfortable using him. Trying to get onto the VASS engineer now to get the detail sorted, will cut the slot today then order the scoop. Its wide enough to cover the existing gills so that is a bonus. Thanks guys for the help on this one.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/79-series-2017-V-8-Bonnet-Scoop-to-suit-Nissan-GQ-Patrol/123761209243?hash=item1cd0be2f9b:g:09EAAOSwCxdawF-f

So, its done, had to cut a hole thru the bonnet to gauge the interference. With the stiffener removed, the pulley sits into the valley and about 2mm above the outer skin, so a 50mm lift would probably have been tight, anyway, am ordering the scoop above complete with 20mm side extensions, so will now clear.

78913

I will tidy up the hole and laminate a stiffener in place to keep the VASS engineer happy.

[Rossco]

Ooh nice one glad there is an easy solution. Remember when i dropped my motor in with new turbo looked like it wouldn't fit at all and hit the chassis, a bit if a oh s#!t moment enough to crush the old spirits. . . Always good to walk away sometimes and come back with a fresh head lol. .

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[PeeBee]

I tell you one thing I am loving is the auto belt tensioner, super easy to operate and with that single belt a dream to 'set and forget'.

[PeeBee]

Ooh nice one glad there is an easy solution. Remember when i dropped my motor in with new turbo looked like it wouldn't fit at all and hit the chassis, a bit if a oh s#!t moment enough to crush the old spirits. . . Always good to walk away sometimes and come back with a fresh head lol. .

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Too true Rossco, but this one, despite the headaches and twists is what i do for a living, sorting out nightmares and getting stuff done, however am more used to having a team of lateral thinking trades guys to fine tune my path to success. Without them, it just is a series of smaller problems making up the bigger one and takes a bit longer. Off to site for a fortnight tomorrow then its ancilliary services hook up and bleeding the beast. I am going to look at all that extra cabling and might end up clipping most of it and starting again. I have to build an airbox yet so its going to be another busy roster break for sure. My only real potential 'oh s88t' moment is around the radiator to fan hub clearance, as this is a new higher flow water pump with a modified duramax fan blade assy - blades sit back from the fluid coupling, but have seen one guy in a GU having to machine the fins off the front of the fluid coupling to get more clearance. I gave some dimensions to BD of what I know is a workable clearance but who knows if they were listening or not - wont take long to find out though.

[poindexter]

Mixed day today. S/C on, after having to redrill all the mount holes 3mm larger. Then bonnet would not close. The directive from Brunswick Diesel was I needed a 1" body lift, so after checking with engineer, did the lift, installed the kit and now they say i need a 2" lift to clear the snout. Speaking with VASS engineer tomorrow to suss out my options.
Throttle control has turned into a fiasco, neither Bullet or Brunswick can tell me how it should be configured, with cruise control, so no doubt have to sort this myself, along with all the additional parts and stuffing around to get 'all the bits' - no plans - NFI pack of turkeys. In fact Bullet and Brunswick, can't run them down enough - but thats the end of the rant. I will sort it out without them. Sicks of the lies.78908

Which holes did you have to drill out?
Mine went on with out dramas.

[PeeBee]

Which holes did you have to drill out?
Mine went on with out dramas.

Every single hole that mounted onto the heads. I tried with 'as supplied' and managed to get 4 bolts in, after setting the gaskets and phenolic plates up with all 8 bolts installed with clamp nuts to hold the gaskets down as they went off. I then opened them up from 12.2 to 13.5mm, and still could not get the two front bolts to align so finally went up to 15mm. No idea what the deal was, Bullet was contacted and they said to expect some holes to need opening up, also spoke with BD, most of his fit ok, the odd one needs a chaser. Anyway its all locked down and the alignment looks fine, will see how it runs. Next step is hooking up the hoses etc

Where are you up to?

[MB]

Just wondering what size bolts either of your donks are using? Could very well be wrong but seem to recall reading online years ago that in later models Napstar or AM General maybe designed in thinner bolts somewhere to allow more meat on the casting edges. Very well could have been reading about the P400 girdle bolts though, not intake bolts?


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[PeeBee]

Just wondering what size bolts either of your donks are using? Could very well be wrong but seem to recall reading online years ago that in later models Napstar or AM General maybe designed in thinner bolts somewhere to allow more meat on the casting edges. Very well could have been reading about the P400 girdle bolts though, not intake bolts?


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I think they are referring to stud in the girdles. The majority of my 'larger bolts were M10 from memory, but not sure about the crank bolts. I found the US Military download manual really useful at times also. When you get back home Mark, a couple of photos of the Injector pump and cable connections would be appreciated.

[MB]

Here you go PeeBee mate.
Tis a bloody disgrace currently under there, please don’t judge me & me NA twactor :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/288.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/289.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/290.jpg


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[Rossco]

She's filthy Markie, is she up and running yet? ? . .

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[MB]

She never stopped the old gal mate, just in line awaiting her time for matfew to finish home under mezzanine lighting for further leak down testing without headlamps:-)
Truth be known I’m a slacker and are thoroughly enjoying having commandeered the old family stocky GU back after current days bolting fully sic cheapo turbos onto bandaid Acco’s :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/291.jpg


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[Rossco]

Ooh nice one hopefully put a bit more spring in its step. . Saw it down there in its new livery looks very sharp. .

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[MB]

Which holes did you have to drill out?
Mine went on with out dramas.

G’day Ralph mate, what size bolts are on your P400 beast mate?


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[PeeBee]

Here you go PeeBee mate.
Tis a bloody disgrace currently under there, please don’t judge me & me NA twactor :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/288.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/289.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/290.jpg


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Thanks Mark, this is exactly what I needed. Still no response from the WA mob, think they may be licking their wounds after receipt of my scathing analysis of their performance and response. So when are you going to sort out that truck - I know I read the reply but no established timeline. You wont get to drive the family rig forever!

[PeeBee]

Bit the bullet and bought these chassis stiffener plates from PSR. May as well do them pre engineering and also safeguard the chassis. I already have weld in braces on the rear spring mounts however a little more thickness won't go astray I reckon, and certainly easier to install them when everything is straight instead of buckled and twisted.
https://www.performancesuspension.com.au/nissan-patrol-gq-gu-chassis-bracing-front-internal
https://www.performancesuspension.com.au/nissan-patrol-gq-gu-chassis-bracing-rear-coil-towe
https://www.performancesuspension.com.au/nissan-patrol-gq-gu-chassis-bracing-wagon-rear-ext
https://www.performancesuspension.com.au/nissan-patrol-gq-gu-front-coil-tower-brace-kit-sui

[PeeBee]

Next lemon. At work, thinking about the car - of course, and realised the new fang dangled water pump supplied does not have a tapping point for the return line from the heater. WTF do I do with this hose, assuming I still want a heater?7892878929 Top image is new pump, bottom is old setup showing the hose on left that has been removed from service???

[poindexter]

G’day Ralph mate, what size bolts are on your P400 beast mate?


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Don't know, I'm assuming that they will be the same size as yours.

[NissanGQ4.2]

.....assuming I still want a heater?

Think I've got the solution Phil

78930

If you drive slow enough you might be able 2 do a low and slow brisket while driving 2

[PeeBee]

Not quite the solution I was looking for, but its an option I guess.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Not quite the solution I was looking for, but its an option I guess.

Just trying 2 help.......

Love your endeavor 2 go supercharger over a turbo :)

[PeeBee]

Just trying 2 help.......

Love your endeavor 2 go supercharger over a turbo :)

At times it feels like death by a thousand lashes, but I am sure it will work out. The annoying thing with this one is how can a company supply an upgrade kit that is non functional? I will have a look at the original water pump and ascertain what the relationship is with the hose and then see if the solution is a drill and tap of a fitting into the pump snout. Just half arsed at best.

[poindexter]

what water pump are you running?
Mine has the outlet for the heater, but my pump flange has 4 bolts, yours appears to have 5.

78931

[PeeBee]

Mine has the spin on Duramax fan not the bolt on like yours. Greg from BD made a big song and dance about changing the original pump to this 'the latest you beaut' pump. My original veebelt driven wp has the fitting like yours, but not the new one. Greg is not responding to me after I gave him a serve about the bonnet and body lift fiasco, so will try later this week for an answer when Scotty returns from sick leave.

Your motor looks good. Did you have to relieve the top of the thermostat housing to allow the s/c snout to fit? What size alternator are you running? When is the motor going into the vehicle or is it already in?

[poindexter]

Mine has the spin on Duramax fan not the bolt on like yours. Greg from BD made a big song and dance about changing the original pump to this 'the latest you beaut' pump. My original veebelt driven wp has the fitting like yours, but not the new one. Greg is not responding to me after I gave him a serve about the bonnet and body lift fiasco, so will try later this week for an answer when Scotty returns from sick leave.

Your motor looks good. Did you have to relieve the top of the thermostat housing to allow the s/c snout to fit? What size alternator are you running? When is the motor going into the vehicle or is it already in?

To my knowledge no mods were required to the thermostat housing, the alternator is 130amp if you can believe Greg.
Engine will be in this week, have been looking into the "beaming bolt bracket" for the 6L90 transmission.
Did Greg quote a water pump part no.? hope the screw on fan hub isn't too long and fouls the radiator.

[PeeBee]

To my knowledge no mods were required to the thermostat housing, the alternator is 130amp if you can believe Greg.
Engine will be in this week, have been looking into the "beaming bolt bracket" for the 6L90 transmission.
Did Greg quote a water pump part no.? hope the screw on fan hub isn't too long and fouls the radiator.

Thanks Ralph

[MudRunnerTD]

Here you go philhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/297.jpg

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[PeeBee]

What bonnet is that Darren? Looks very sweet. I have already ordered and paid for the unit in the previous posts so will sit with that as I know it will clear under all circumstances.

[poindexter]

What bonnet is that Darren? Looks very sweet. I have already ordered and paid for the unit in the previous posts so will sit with that as I know it will clear under all circumstances.

XB Falcon GT hood on the Nissan.

[poindexter]

Here you go philhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/07/297.jpg

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That looks sweet, who makes them?

[Winnie]

That looks sweet, who makes them?That one was a one of custom make by the bloke who built the car. One of the first barra powered patrols from at least 10 years ago.
Can you tell he liked his Fords?

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[PeeBee]

Looks great, very discrete.

[PeeBee]

Back to Melb on R&R, picked up radiator with low water level plug mod, pile of parcels waiting for me including the chassis stiffener kits and front spring tower stiffener - another set of jobs! Anyway, bonnet scoop should be here Wed at latest, and with luck will have truck running by Monday PM.

[PeeBee]

Another fair days work. Oil line feed to timing cover resolved, Vac line resolved from pump, just need to see what the claerances are before selecting the vac reservoir position, resolved the missing heater line issue, but true to form BD didn't supply the fittings or mount plate so a temp one was made waiting to get the right one, trial fitted the radiator, about 20mm clearance from hub to core then another 25mm back for the blades, so this will be fine, sorting out the power steering on monday as BD hose kit is not even close. Probably do a dummy hose and head to Pirtek first thing monday.

Tomorrow short days, so will bleed the animal and start looking at the sir filter box - will get the pieces ordered and chopped on monday then weld it up tuesday. Second alternator looks a very slim chance with this set-up - certainly going to stretch the imagination to get one in.

[PeeBee]

OK, PS hoses measured for Pirtek tomorrow morning, into airbox design pre cardboard mock-up, and decided to upgrade the 100amp alternator at the same time, 180amp at idle, should be enough! Want the grunt for the rear winch and the 400amp/hr of batteries in the rear, or to be honest, to run the coffee machine!

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Output-300-Amp-NEW-Alternator-For-K1500-C2500-Suburban-C3500HD-Truck/192822312362?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[PeeBee]

OK, another day with a thousand bee stings, just does not stop. Radiator top mounts didn't line up so 1.5 hrs with the dremel to sort that one. Had to strip off about 50kg of stuff to get the bottom radiator hose on - god help me if I ever have to replace it. Power steering hoses resolved, another $150 that should have logically been in 'the kit', but wasn't. Radiator in, half full of water, tomorrow is then bleed and start day I hope, few wires still to extend to opposite side of the engine bay for new assy. Spent 2 hours playing hide and seek with the tacho sense wire, end up it was hiding in full view, just could not see it.
Assy looks good.79073790747907579076

[Rossco]

Ooh getting close now can't wait to see how this baby performs. What's the thing with the yellow ring is that a pod filter if so will you be running snorkel . ?

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[Winnie]

Looking shit hot Phil! A project is no fun without setbacks at every turn.

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[poindexter]

How did the radiator shroud line up with the fan? Did BD get that right? As you know I'm in the thick of it as well. What exhaust system are you planning to run, these and many more questions require resolution.....:1087:

[PeeBee]

How did the radiator shroud line up with the fan? Did BD get that right? As you know I'm in the thick of it as well. What exhaust system are you planning to run, these and many more questions require resolution.....:1087:

Fan to shroud lined up perfectly, however top holes in radiator did't line up with the tapped holes in body - more important to get the bottoms seated correctly. Approx 20mm clearance on fan. A split shroud would be better than single piece.
I am staying with the standard headers for now, then opening up the exhaust to 4" after the cross-over once it has gone thru engineering with the 3" DPI. Biggest hassle for me is finding an exhaust place with a 5T hoist as a 4T struggles to lift mine and the one local guy I know could do the job has blacklisted me due to weight!

[PeeBee]

Looking shit hot Phil! A project is no fun without setbacks at every turn.

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Winnie, you need to get out more often! After spending what I did on this 'kit' then finding missing parts and massive cock-ups, its not expected or appreciated. BD are STILL sending me parts and I am due to start it tomorrow - bloody disgrace.

[PeeBee]

Ooh getting close now can't wait to see how this baby performs. What's the thing with the yellow ring is that a pod filter if so will you be running snorkel . ?

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Ross, its a temp to allow me to crank it up without the monster filter in position. It will probably be relegated to a breakdown spare. Picking up the filter box plates tomorrow and might get into it before I go back to work. The airbox is 570mm long x 220mm wide x 200mm high - she is a big-en! Sites in the space between the overflow bottle and the engine with about 60mm clearance. I will be running the 4" snorkle inlet into the box, then 4" out to 3.5" inlet on s/c snout.

Heaps to do still, Water/meth system still to go in, boost line, etc etc etc

[Rossco]

Nice one, ah yes i remember now new airbox too go in. . . Very exciting hopefully not too many hurdles to go [emoji106]

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[PeeBee]

Nice one, ah yes i remember now new airbox too go in. . . Very exciting hopefully not too many hurdles to go [emoji106]

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Thee completion list is now down to the last 15 items - yes, I want to see how this baby hauls. I expect first is going to be over and done in a second, then the fun should start! The fella in WA who I have been speaking with just upgraded his s/c nose pulley from the 76mm to the 70mm, which I went straight to. He is 'creamin'' over his GQ dual cab ute - reckons it picked up another 50hp - not on dyno, so subjective, but he backed off at 190 and still had 500rpm to the redline - egt's were starting to hit 525Deg C - all sounds like a meatty conservative outcome for him, hope mine does the same.

[PeeBee]

OK, its alive. Put on the rubber suits and have a quick taste. Its missing the oil filler nozzle at the front, and the new aircleaner, but it fired up on the 3rd crank. Alignment of the 8 rib serpentine belt is tight, have not got it quite right despite BD saying it was set up, but then they didn't run it either.

Now just the finishing off which I suspect will take me 2 roster breaks. Pretty happy with the outcome, sounds different to what I expected, more mechanical and belt noise.

@MB, AB can you upload the file I am going to send you next - I cant attach - its saying java script horse do-dee etc - beyond me.

Sorry guys, having some technical nuffy moments and being guided patiently by MB. We will get there - eventually.

Sorry guys, have opened account, logged in, now no log-in, can see video on my phone, via utube but not on computer, dont do that tapp a talk thing right now or whatever - getting frustrated with this now.

[PeeBee]

poindexter, I notice your engine has a different pulley that Bullet supply? on the 3 bolt support to get the s/c wrap. I have 2 pulleys with identical lips like on the take up - this is just too much control, hence I have shredded the side of the belt. I think the chamfered pulley you have, the one almost directly below the snout pulley is what I need - I have contacted Bullet to see what they say.

[poindexter]

poindexter, I notice your engine has a different pulley that Bullet supply? on the 3 bolt support to get the s/c wrap. I have 2 pulleys with identical lips like on the take up - this is just too much control, hence I have shredded the side of the belt. I think the chamfered pulley you have, the one almost directly below the snout pulley is what I need - I have contacted Bullet to see what they say.

I'm not sure that Bullet supplied that pulley, came from BD as far as I know......

[PeeBee]

I'm not sure that Bullet supplied that pulley, came from BD as far as I know......

Yep, more or less confirmed with Bullet just now, BD have not owned up, despite giving them the opportunity. Anyway, a radiused pulley on the way down from Bullet, so will be here for my return.

[PeeBee]

https://youtu.be/jwAPRT3Kv6Y

First run after install

[Winnie]

Wow, doesn't sound at all like I would have expected. Can't wait to see it hauling ass through the high country though!

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[MudRunnerTD]

The Hills are Alive with the sound of a Super Charger!!!!

[PeeBee]

The engine has lost its throaty note by the looks of it. I saw a supercharger manifold for sale on Gumtree today for a TD42 - to suit the s/c used on the 3.8 holden v6. It had a strange configuration being it was very offset to one end of the manifold, but it was manufactured in the US and imported - unused - $2300

[PeeBee]

www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bendigo/engine-engine-parts-transmission/nissan-patrol-4-2-supercharger-setup/1212849020

[poindexter]

https://youtu.be/jwAPRT3Kv6Y

First run after install

What is it idling at? sounds high, but may be due to supercharger noise.

[PeeBee]

Idles at 525rpm by the tacho. but sounds busy due to the supercharger noise plus the front gearcase is still open - 'forgot' to install the oil filler tube, so there will be some gear noise from there, and from the POD filter that is not dampening the noise as well. Stab the accelerator and its instant response.

[PeeBee]

Bought these today since I have the entire front off the beast.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JTX-LED-Head-Light-Waterproofing-Breather-Kit/302402961555?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JTX-7-LED-Headlights-Chrome-no-Halo-for-Nissan-Patrol-MQ-GQ-Y60-Ford-Maverick/292728337798?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Then a Provent knock off design vent can 25mm inlet and outlets to match the rocker cover vent and s/c inlet port.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pro-Oil-Catch-Can-Filter-200-Vent-for-Hilux-Landcruiser-4WDS-Turbo-Patrol-Diesel/332167733329?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Retail therapy after spending the day at the Effluent treatment plant taking raw effluent samples - and fighting instrumentation set-up issues - needed some compensation.

[Winnie]

I'll be keen to see how you go with those lights Phil. If they are awesome I'd be tempted to upgrade.

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[PeeBee]

I'll be keen to see how you go with those lights Phil. If they are awesome I'd be tempted to upgrade.

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Test of success will be on dark wet roads. I contacted the guy who puts them together and they use very small wattage LED's and he won't quote wattage as he says it just pushes the competition to make claims of larger illumination. If they are as good as he says, then they are a win. The ADR compliance is another reason I jumped as Vicroads confirmed they are legal also.

[poindexter]

Had a very interesting chat to the guy from Harrop Engineering on the weekend regarding their superchargers, and he said that one guy with a 6.5 setup his bypass valve to a solenoid for better mileage at cruise.
Looked through you pics Phil, and I can't see any bypass valve. The valve works with vacuum on petrol engines.
Did you notice one? Should be towards the rear of supercharger.
I did mention about your belt issues, he thinks it's an alignment problem.

[PeeBee]

Had a very interesting chat to the guy from Harrop Engineering on the weekend regarding their superchargers, and he said that one guy with a 6.5 setup his bypass valve to a solenoid for better mileage at cruise.
Looked through you pics Phil, and I can't see any bypass valve. The valve works with vacuum on petrol engines.
Did you notice one? Should be towards the rear of supercharger.
I did mention about your belt issues, he thinks it's an alignment problem.

I don't know how this would work? Would expect it to be a very large valve, at least as large as the s/c inlet, plus how do you idle the rotors without a clutch - sounds very unusual. The rotors are still going to turn and pump. Would be interested to know more if you can find out - sounds kind of 'mad max-ish' but maybe its true? There isn't any port or plate to speak of on my unit.

My belts are aligned, its the stupid double pulley that BD installed. Soon as I exchange it with the black plastic radiused edge unit the problem will go away. Simply another dumb error by the WA guys. Greg won't take my calls, so stuff 'em. They don't want to know.

[PeeBee]

Ralph, I looked this bypass valve up and Harrop do it but its a different casting to the standard 2300. Its a butterfly adjacent to the inlet, below the rotors. Its opened on demand, usually under vacuum, to bleed a portion of the pressurised air directly into the inlet manifold. Its a boost limiting valve. I don't think it bleeds air into the engine, more that it allows another discharge path to atmosphere, being the inlet manifold, where I guess it would be recycled. I guess if you are cruising and at a constant boost, due to the nature of the s/c, this might allow you to reduce the boost and possibly maintain the speed of the vehicle, although I am a bit tangled up on that concept as the valve might be chattering away trying to work against a preset pressure I am guessing. I think in reality its an engine saving device if you have the ability to run very high boost and perhaps you can back the pressure off automatically if the engine gets super hot - only guessing.

[MudRunnerTD]

OK, another day with a thousand bee stings, just does not stop. Radiator top mounts didn't line up so 1.5 hrs with the dremel to sort that one. Had to strip off about 50kg of stuff to get the bottom radiator hose on - god help me if I ever have to replace it. Power steering hoses resolved, another $150 that should have logically been in 'the kit', but wasn't. Radiator in, half full of water, tomorrow is then bleed and start day I hope, few wires still to extend to opposite side of the engine bay for new assy. Spent 2 hours playing hide and seek with the tacho sense wire, end up it was hiding in full view, just could not see it.
Assy looks good.79073790747907579076

That is looking pretty sexy Phil. I need a pic with the Gimp leaning into the engine bay though mate!!!

Hey what is that thing out the front below the radiator? Looks like a round cylinder heat sink? with a hose out the end? in the last pic?

[PeeBee]

That is looking pretty sexy Phil. I need a pic with the Gimp leaning into the engine bay though mate!!!

Hey what is that thing out the front below the radiator? Looks like a round cylinder heat sink? with a hose out the end? in the last pic?

The single aluminium extrusion sitting horizontal across the front of the radiator is the hydraulic oil cooler for the front winch. The smaller diameter double aluminium extrusion hanging down is the sup oil cooler I configured to keep the oil temps manageable. It was sitting directly over the top of the winch spool, so it picked up great airflow - nominally a 40degC drop in oil temp achieved at airspeed above say 20km/hr. Doesn't do much for low range, zero speed work as its then simply a radiator, but it also increases my oil volume by about 3L which is huge on the Chev. May end up dropping it down below the winch for the engineering activity as the VASS guy might see it as a burns risk to a pedestrian as I run over them, but putting it down lower he wont see it and I can still burn 'em! Anyway, I went this config instead of a conventional plate or radiator style as this is a hell of a lot more robust and really easy to clean with a stick if it gets clogged up with mud - cant do that easily with the other style. MB was going to buy one, and I think Eviltwin in WA actually bought one, unsure if he fitted it though.

I understand the gimp only comes out for special occasions and special people

[MB]

Please don’t listen to PeeBee Folks!
Worstest engineer ever I tells y’all:-)
Stupid oil coolers aren’t self installing, just keep collecting dust[emoji107][emoji107]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/08/126.jpg
In fairness and practicality good old mate stopped me from installing 6.5 mud sponges down low :-) [emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/08/127.jpg
Cheers Phil ;-)


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[poindexter]

found this on the Eaton website
79220

[PeeBee]

Interesting chart, my blower is sitting or dancing between the 65% and 70% island, depending on flowrate

[PeeBee]

Hit the road today for a quick squirt around a very small block as no indicators or headlights in - just couldn't wait any longer. Anyway, its bloody noisy and harsh, nothing smooth or sweet about it, stick the boot in and it roars. I can't tell the acceleration, but first gear is useless, looking to get the bonnet scoop mounted tomorrow and also the air box sorted as well. From there it is then time to cut the hole in the bonnet to take advantage of the additional airflow. Going to need some really good sound insulation for the bonnet and the inside of the firewall. Can't tell yet if the clutch is slipping, could well be as acceleration wasn't that spectacular, but will wait and see tomorrow when I take it for a longer drive. Put the new headlights in - they don't work, so something else to resolve - ah yes, they run off the 28V power supply .....

[poindexter]

Hit the road today for a quick squirt around a very small block as no indicators or headlights in - just couldn't wait any longer. Anyway, its bloody noisy and harsh, nothing smooth or sweet about it, stick the boot in and it roars. I can't tell the acceleration, but first gear is useless, looking to get the bonnet scoop mounted tomorrow and also the air box sorted as well. From there it is then time to cut the hole in the bonnet to take advantage of the additional airflow. Going to need some really good sound insulation for the bonnet and the inside of the firewall. Can't tell yet if the clutch is slipping, could well be as acceleration wasn't that spectacular, but will wait and see tomorrow when I take it for a longer drive. Put the new headlights in - they don't work, so something else to resolve - ah yes, they run off the 28V power supply .....

Good to hear that it's alive...
Noisy and harsh, that is something that would bother me. Maybe not the noise, it is a big V8 diesel after all.
Be patient and get all the ancillaries on and sorted and see how she runs then.
I'm looking forward for my truck to run, but me thinks not this month.....

[PeeBee]

s much as I hate auto's in the bush, I think this engine would shine with a great automatic, so I hope yours works out well Ralph. Looking for some quality soundproofing now for the bonnet and inside cabin. One the inlet aircleaner goes on I think a lot of the noise may temper.

[Ben-e-boy]

You'll find that even the Duramax's and Powerstroke's are a completely different animal with good auto like an Allison. The torque from the US v8 diesels albeit plentiful, is short lived and good auto will utilize it much better than any manual

[Rossco]

Hey phil, glad to hear its up and running. So the noise and harshness, it that coming primarily from the supercharger? Any plans to for dyno readings or tuning although I know numbers are one thing and the way it drives is another. . Sure it will come up pretty wicked in the end, can't wait to see it. .

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[PeeBee]

Thanks Rossco, I will probably take it across to the guys you ended up with, believe they are Standyne guys. Regards the numbers, not too fussed as I know its got to be more than what was there before - just having to re-learn how to drive the beast is going to frustrating. You might recall that i have said in the past that 3rd low was the death star gear in the bush - god only knows whats going to happen now!!!. So spent this roster getting the belts aligned - took a full day with all the sttuffing around, but now the belt sits right in the middle of every pulley, then 90% finished the airbox, another 100% custom jobbie, then tried to change over the glycol to my super soluble oil system and could not get the bloody thing hot enough at idle to open the thermostats and burp it - damn huge aluminium radiatior and duramax fan and cool day - 3 hrs and only half the known volume into the system - will try tomorrow, heading to site thursday so would like it sorted. Hoping to get out in it tomorrow, will see how I go. Next roster is wiring attack but suspect Jenny will have a pile of stuff lined up that hasn't been done - gutters for one comes to mind. Whats the name of the diesel tuning guys you went to - name escapes me.

Noise is from the s/c and the poor inlet - have a pod filter just to get it going and also no under bonnet insulation, hole in the bonnet - few contributing things, but s/c whine is going to take some getting used to. Looking for a new clutch as well, this one is going to fail in no time, like maybe tomorrow!!!

[PeeBee]

OK, mixed day, burping the beast commenced again, bit more successful but still not convinced its done. Took it out for a freeway run and yes, it moves with a lot better response. Getting used to the whine is going to be the challenge! Throaty roar is still there as well, must sound great I reckon. Power steering pump blew a seal after 20klm and covered everything in fluid, smoking and giving the blood pressure a rise - new one on the way from WA. Going to be a biatch to get off now that its fitted into the engine bay.

More or less completed the airbox, waiting for the silicone sleeves to arrive, just have to make the perspex lid and tap some holes.

Didn't get to the bonnet scoop, but made drilling template for next time.

792347923579236

Looking into a replacement clutch, the Exedy Safari STHD is one and then there is the Viper . Usual amount of smoke and mirrors, Viper seems the conservative approach but going to cost a lot more as need a flywheel to suit. Stewing on this for now, couldn't tell if existing clutch was slipping - don't think so.

[Winnie]

Have a look into the NPC 6x6 clutch. Fair bit cheaper than the viper and should hold fine. They keep them on the shelf.

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[PeeBee]

OK, thanks Chris. I am already in contact with NPC, funny enough they didn't mention this clutch - i have read about it in the same circles as the Viper. Only headache is the chev flywheel drilled for a Nissan clutch pattern, which is different to the Viper, so its either a new flywheel, which they don't carry, or take the flywheel off and either get them to drill and tap it exactly to the new centres or have someone do it, and they can't recommend anyone in Melb to assist. Another long winded trail to success it looks.

[Rossco]

Fun fun sounds like it's progressing well. Cornell Diesel was the place I ended going after didn't have the best of luck with Dieseltek. Very happy when it now, loving driving the GQ. . .

Reckon when intake is back together properly should be a lot nicer. .

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[PeeBee]

Fun fun sounds like it's progressing well. Cornell Diesel was the place I ended going after didn't have the best of luck with Dieseltek. Very happy when it now, loving driving the GQ. . .

Reckon when intake is back together properly should be a lot nicer. .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah, at the moment the joy isn't there yet, have to R&R this PS pump on next roster break, 3 bolts, impossible orientation, probably take a day!

[PeeBee]

OK, so brand new power steering pump drops all its oil the first time the RPM gets above idle, 5 klm total travelled distance, blows out the front shaft seal and is distributed over the entire engine bay. Contact Brunswick diesel, their response, well I can do you a new one for $750, like WTF. Ever heard of warranty you turkeys? You set the pump up as a sub assemble, I mounted the sub assy and filled it with oil after fixing the hose that was too short, that you supplied, so every 5klm I am expected to shell out $750 for the luxury of power steering? These guys are beyond belief - the conversation will continue but right now they think its a fair situation. When I am done with these guys I will be happy. Oh, and we will sell you a replacement clutch, look after you etc, but won't guarantee it will handle the torque- yep, I better have 5 them at that special 'looked after price', steer away from these guys if you want my opinion.

[rusty_nail]

OK, so brand new power steering pump drops all its oil the first time the RPM gets above idle, 5 klm total travelled distance, blows out the front shaft seal and is distributed over the entire engine bay. Contact Brunswick diesel, their response, well I can do you a new one for $750, like WTF. Ever heard of warranty you turkeys? You set the pump up as a sub assemble, I mounted the sub assy and filled it with oil after fixing the hose that was too short, that you supplied, so every 5klm I am expected to shell out $750 for the luxury of power steering? These guys are beyond belief - the conversation will continue but right now they think its a fair situation. When I am done with these guys I will be happy. Oh, and we will sell you a replacement clutch, look after you etc, but won't guarantee it will handle the torque- yep, I better have 5 them at that special 'looked after price', steer away from these guys if you want my opinion.

thats a bugger mate, sounds about the same sort of glorious customer service etc Ben-e-boy got when doing his motor build. i feel your pain.

[PeeBee]

Its rubbish Nick, total rubbish, and I will expect a call from them tomorrow regards the clutch and see what absolute trilogy they will try and weave.

[Rossco]

Far out Phil sorry to hear mate sounds infuriating, hopefully get a better run of luck soon. .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[poindexter]

OK, so brand new power steering pump drops all its oil the first time the RPM gets above idle, 5 klm total travelled distance, blows out the front shaft seal and is distributed over the entire engine bay. Contact Brunswick diesel, their response, well I can do you a new one for $750, like WTF. Ever heard of warranty you turkeys? You set the pump up as a sub assemble, I mounted the sub assy and filled it with oil after fixing the hose that was too short, that you supplied, so every 5klm I am expected to shell out $750 for the luxury of power steering? These guys are beyond belief - the conversation will continue but right now they think its a fair situation. When I am done with these guys I will be happy. Oh, and we will sell you a replacement clutch, look after you etc, but won't guarantee it will handle the torque- yep, I better have 5 them at that special 'looked after price', steer away from these guys if you want my opinion.

Have you got a part number for the pump?
There are other ways to get one without paying BD prices.

[PeeBee]

Have you got a part number for the pump?
There are other ways to get one without paying BD prices.

No, am hoping I will get one today via one of the other FB pages, but then again will try Eagle Auto Spares or the USA Spares mob in Dandenong as they supply to BD, but to be honest they charge like wounded bulls to protect their relationship with BD. Either way I should not be paying, I mean, you can't buy anything new today without it having a warranty.

[poindexter]

Something like this might do.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-SB-BB-Chevy-Black-Saginaw-Key-Way-Style-Power-Steering-Pump-283-350-454/123771257780?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SI M%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57928%26meid%3D2a42dcf1a9bd423f 9ce60feedc542875%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D1 2%26sd%3D163227253912%26itm%3D123771257780%26pmt%3 D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

[poindexter]

or this

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/engine-size/6-5l-396/make/chevrolet/part-type/power-steering-pumps

[PeeBee]

or this

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/engine-size/6-5l-396/make/chevrolet/part-type/power-steering-pumps

Thanks Ralph, I need to speak with BD about this today and if they hold out, get the shaft diameter they use as there appears a couple of different diameters.

[nissannewby]

I don't want to seem like a prick but are you 100% it's plumbed up correctly? To blow the shaft seal means you are pressurising the case somehow. The shaft seal should basically never see pressure unless the pump is absolutely shagged and bypassing to all buggery. Are you able to draw out the circuit at all?

[PeeBee]

I don't want to seem like a prick but are you 100% it's plumbed up correctly? To blow the shaft seal means you are pressurising the case somehow. The shaft seal should basically never see pressure unless the pump is absolutely shagged and bypassing to all buggery. Are you able to draw out the circuit at all?

No offence taken, the lines were simply swapped from the original to the new in the same orientation. I am back on site so when I get home in a fortnight I will have another look. For example the low pressure lines are fitted at both ends with cable clamps and the high pressure lines had screwed fittings from memory. The new pump has a barbed fitting and a female screwed port - should be straight forward. I had run the car perhaps a klm without detrimental effect prior to this major failure, around local streets with lots of turns, would have thought it would have shown up is incorrect? Anyway, I will look at this when I get home. I just tried to find a power steering schatic for the TD42 power steering circuit - could not find one.

[PeeBee]

Update, BD have decided to supply a partial new pump, which is better than nothing at all - i just need to swap out the pulley and also the backing plate. Glad they saw sense.

[PeeBee]

NissanNewbie,here is the schematic as best as I can recall. I am leaning towards overfilled reservoir perhaps - seems like there is a tight seal on the can - any ideas? I have a further 2 weeks to torme79243nt myself before getting back home!!!

Or, a seal leak from discharge of pump, internal to reservoir - on the basis the rear plate of the reservoir is a separate unit to the pump, so there is likely to be a discharge line from the pump discharge port to the pump, o'ring for example - them the reservoir would be pressurised.

[nissannewby]

A standard shaft seal can usually only deal with very little pressure like 30psi or less. Unless a high pressure shaft seal is used. So the hose clamps will still hold on way after there is enough pressure to kill the shaft seal. I will track down a OEM circuit for the power steering but I think you may need to run the fluid further before returning to the reservoir. Running through a cooler would be ideal as it will see a pressure drop and be better then returning to the small reservoir.

[PeeBee]

A standard shaft seal can usually only deal with very little pressure like 30psi or less. Unless a high pressure shaft seal is used. So the hose clamps will still hold on way after there is enough pressure to kill the shaft seal. I will track down a OEM circuit for the power steering but I think you may need to run the fluid further before returning to the reservoir. Running through a cooler would be ideal as it will see a pressure drop and be better then returning to the small reservoir.

Many thanks, I actually purchased an in-line cooler for the fluid and didn't install it as too impatient to get the thing back on the road. So you are thinking there is too much residual pressure in the return line and this is pressuring the reservoir?

[nissannewby]

Many thanks, I actually purchased an in-line cooler for the fluid and didn't install it as too impatient to get the thing back on the road. So you are thinking there is too much residual pressure in the return line and this is pressuring the reservoir?

Yeah there is just to much flow returning to that little reservoir but it is only a thought. I know BD are fantastic are supplying secondhand crap

[PeeBee]

Yeah there is just to much flow returning to that little reservoir but it is only a thought. I know BD are fantastic are supplying secondhand crap

Yep, finding this out, along with very limited substantiated engineering. I am looking at replacement clutch as mine is undernourished for sure, but think I will get it dyno'd first to get a real understanding of what i need capacity wise because BD have expanded the capacity by 50% on the same clutch over the last 3 days - must be due to the sunshine over in WA!

[PeeBee]

OK, just received the new PS pump. Could I ask a favour please of any GQ Patrol owner, to take a photo of the hose connections at/to the PS pump and also the reservoir. I am looking to confirm the pressure and return lines orientation. I am pretty sure I have it correct, however would like to confirm it before starting the mission of replacement next Friday. The pressure line from the pump should have crimped fittings I think and the return lines simply hose clamped.Thanks in advance.

Here are a couple of shots I got off the internet. 79260

79261

The pressure line I believe is the one shown with the crimped hose still connected to it - If this could be confirmed it would put my mind at rest. This is the hose I connected to the pressure port on the pump.

[mudnut]

Sorry it took so long. The high pressure side is is circled in both pics. On the steering gear it is the one towards the front. On the pump it is towards the passenger side.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Craig, appreciate it. I assume front of vehicle is bottom of image?

[mudnut]

Edited above post.

[PeeBee]

Edited above post.

Gotcha, this aligns with the image i posted earlier,now I am doubting if I have plumbed this up correct or not - simply cannot recall the detail - so will have to stew on this until next friday, but then I can't see how the ps would have worked in the first place and why it didn't fail immediately if it was hooked up backwards?

[mudnut]

The bottom hose from the reservoir goes to the low pressure side of the pump.

[mudnut]

Dunno, Phil. The blue hose is the suction inlet. I suppose if it was plumbed wrongly, it might have been pumping high pressure fluid into that.

If you were turning the steering wheel while the vehicle was on a jack, then not much pressure was applied. On the road, with higher pressure and load it would have caused a higher pressure to be generated at the seal. All conjecture at this point, though.

[PeeBee]

So, when you look at the lines that run across the front of the car from drivers side to passenger the return to the drivers side, are they on the low or high pressure side of the system?

[PeeBee]

OK here is what I have and believe it is correctly configured.79278

[PeeBee]

79279

Hi and low pressure lines

[mudnut]

That seems to be right. Is your pump and res all in one unit?

[PeeBee]

That seems to be right. Is your pump and res all in one unit?

Yes, its a chev style, pump is inside the reservoir. When I get home at the end of next week, I have to pull the old/new one out and swap over the rear casing and then re-install it. I am hoping to discover the reason for the failure then, but in the meantime doing the research to make sure its hooked up correctly, which I am sure it is now. I am going to get the actual pressure hose modified by Pirtek as they made me one without a swivel in it and I may have constricted the bore when I installed it. Still baffled how this would pressurise the take and blow the seal, or maybe the seal was simply faulty or poorly fitted. I must have been idling for a few hours whilst I was trying to burp the radiator, and it certainly wasn't leaking then. Anyway, thanks for the help today, will advise what I find later.

[nissannewby]

The high pressure line will always be the smaller one. Everything after the steering box should be larger returning to the reservoir with basically no restriction. A cooler helps in that with a temp drop you will get a pressure drop. So larger return line and cooler have a lower pressure returning to the reservoir.

You also need to make sure the return to the reservoir is under the fluid level.

[PeeBee]

The high pressure line will always be the smaller one. Everything after the steering box should be larger returning to the reservoir with basically no restriction. A cooler helps in that with a temp drop you will get a pressure drop. So larger return line and cooler have a lower pressure returning to the reservoir.

You also need to make sure the return to the reservoir is under the fluid level.

All good thanks and understood. I guess my focus was on identification of the pressure and return ports on the steering box. All else should be fine. i am pretty sure its connected correctly, just a very short period of time at home so want to maximise every minute if I can. Looks like the pressure port is now identified so on to the swap over and hose mod friday arvo.

[PeeBee]

So a mixed day. BD finally agreed to replace the PS pump that last 3klm before shitting itself. Once I got it out of the car and apart, found the front bearing was knackered and the pump full of metal splinters - next it will be the PS box. Anyway, after 3 call Greg decided to replace the mount bracket assy as I am still throwing belts. I am well past 'over it' with these guys to be frank.

I finished the airbox assy, loots great but can't install it as need the access for the PS assy installation. Frustrating. So moved on and prepped the bonnet for the scoop, had to make 2 stiffener frames for the bonnet as I have cut through a number of braces. Drilling and mounting the scoop tomorrow, then with luck, back onto the car and it might even fit! One day, its going to get back on the road, one day ending in 'y' that is.

[mudnut]

Is it possible to flush all the metal out of the steering gear while in the vehicle?

[PeeBee]

Craig, I might be ok, the metal shards and pieces were stuck to the magnet inside the PS pump tank. It looks like they have been there from the beginning, ie from when BD swapped the reservoir over to the pump. I know it didnt originate in my gagarge as the pump arrived all sealed up with plugs caps and it wasn't opened up until the connections were made and the thing filled with fluid. Simply piggy workshop practice.

[PeeBee]

Bonnet scoop turned out well. going to line the underside tomorrow, waiting for all the sikaflex to dry. Frames are 25x25x3 angle.7933379334

[PeeBee]

Is it possible to flush all the metal out of the steering gear while in the vehicle?

Pic of removed pump, very healthy collection if fibres
79335

[Winnie]

Just saw this post on fvabeook which you should find interesting Phil. Not sure where you are at with clutch selection now but reading this and your expected power output I reckon your only real choice is the viper clutch.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/09/80.jpg

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[PeeBee]

Thanks Chris, I looked at a range of options including twin plate. The Isuzu clutch 6x6 was rated at 600 ish, so that cut it out. The Viper ended up being too much hassle and to be honest it was in the basket of a custom set up in my mind. The flywheel, and existing clutch had to be sent to Brisbane and then a replacement set up to suit.It needed either a new flywheel or machining and re-drilling - they could not be certain. I could not expect a workshop to have the barge sitting around for a week whilst this was going on.It was just too much stuffing around. I think their product is the goods, but just didn't work for me.
I have decided to go with the Exedy Safari HD ex BD as they and Exedy are standing behind it with a 2 yr warranty so regardless of how hopeless BD are, Exedy have the runs.(rated somewhere in the order of 900 continuous and 1200 peak, so will see how that runs - took a lot of hassling to get these values) i contacted UFI re their HD cluch - AB is running one. Could not get the info or feeling of certainty out of the guy I spoke with - all he wanted to do was clap on about how crap the chev was - good bye fool.

By comparison, the Clutch Industries unit in mine was running in a guys vehicle in WA, the guy who has a similar set up to mine, and he put 100,000klm on his, but the flywheel has toast by the time he swapped to an auto - and he towed a 3T van from Bunbury to Cape York return with that under rated clutch. Either, he is a total animal, the clutch is very de-rated, or he wasn't getting the torque he thought.

Right now I simply want the beast sorted with the belt issue and its then more or less capable of getting back on the road. Aircon needs a couple of hoses and gas, then slow burner wire tidy up. I am looking hard at the Interchiller setup to get the inlet temps down and resultant EGT's (Torqueline Garage can do a completed W2A and A/C chiller system, will see how everything sits for now). I have to still hook up the water injection system as well - plenty to do. Hydro Boost is perhaps the next ticket after the clutch I think.

[0-TJ-0]

If you've convinced of anything Phil (if i can call you that), it's that if I wanted something like this..to buy one that's already complete haha.

Nah it's not so bad when everything works and fits as it's sold... But my projects always seem to end up like this, over time, over budget and eveyone wants to tell you how you should have gone a different way!

[PeeBee]

If you've convinced of anything Phil (if i can call you that), it's that if I wanted something like this..to buy one that's already complete haha.

Nah it's not so bad when everything works and fits as it's sold... But my projects always seem to end up like this, over time, over budget and eveyone wants to tell you how you should have gone a different way!

I hear ya, and to be honest, I wanted to see if I could actually do this, have wanted to get dirty into a motor to some degree for years. The disappointing thing has been the detail and the money laid out for what should have been a bolt together affair - simply didn't land there. I am very close now, just the belt alignment and an a/c hose, so its not that bad I guess.

[PeeBee]

OK, fitted the under bonnet self adhesive felt and its come up a treat. Tough and difficult to cut and trim, but with the right applicator roller, it roles out without a fold or stretch mark. Rated at 260 degC and does not burn. Really finishes and hides all the carnage from the multitude of mods over the years.

My retired neighbour wandered over today for one of his daily chats and turns out he was a panel beater in a former life, so implored me to hand over the new bonnet and the paint so he has something to do whilst I am back up on site - what an offer, top guy, so busy tomorrow cleaning all the over smudged silastic sealer used at the bonnet to scoop interface.

79338

[Winnie]

That under bonnet lining looks awesome Phil, do you have any details on what it is?

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[PeeBee]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-Under-Bonnet-Insulation-by-Car-Builders-hood-lining-pad-heat-and-sound/163356097480?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Sound-Deadener-application-roller-suit-Car-Builders-Dynamat/151180893778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The trick is to cut the template out of cardboard first, then copy onto the felt using a texta. I used a combination of sharp scissors and a heavy stanley knife. The self adhesive backing is very sticky, but peel-able. Ideally placement is best with 2 people, but I managed by myself , just needed to plan the 'drop'. It looks better than a factory fit. I used the original felted cardboard nissan as a preliminary template then optimised from there - the framed cutouts were simple enough to trace out with the knife.

[Winnie]

Yes I like it a lot!

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[PeeBee]

BD have advised the replacement bracket, pump and 8 rib pulley will be in Melb friday/monday next week. I have paid for the Exedy Safari HD clutch and flywheel, which is also in the same consignment. Bonnet getting sprayed this week also, so with luck it will be on the road by Tuesday Oct 8. From there into a local shop to do the clutch.

[Rossco]

Ooh excitement, you'll be ripping up the pavement in no time. .

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[MudRunnerTD]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-Under-Bonnet-Insulation-by-Car-Builders-hood-lining-pad-heat-and-sound/163356097480?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Sound-Deadener-application-roller-suit-Car-Builders-Dynamat/151180893778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The trick is to cut the template out of cardboard first, then copy onto the felt using a texta. I used a combination of sharp scissors and a heavy stanley knife. The self adhesive backing is very sticky, but peel-able. Ideally placement is best with 2 people, but I managed by myself , just needed to plan the 'drop'. It looks better than a factory fit. I used the original felted cardboard nissan as a preliminary template then optimised from there - the framed cutouts were simple enough to trace out with the knife.

That would make a Sik Head Lining replacement in the GQ too mate.

[PeeBee]

That would make a Sik Head Lining replacement in the GQ too mate.

I think you are right Darren. Its a very good finish, tough as hell, is a sound and temperature insulator and sticks to any change in shape or direction without creases.

[tryan277]

Just saw your post on "what has made you happy" and the photo of the clutch box
Given your run with BD did you get what you ordered...
It is the same part no as this...

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-SAFARI-TUFF-H-D-CLUTCH-NISSAN-PATROL-DX-ST-ST-L-ST-S-ST-GU-Y61-4-2-TD42T/322828385413?epid=14032578650&hash=item4b2a123c85:g:lCMAAOSwAvFZ4ppa

Cheers Trevor

[PeeBee]

Just saw your post on "what has made you happy" and the photo of the clutch box
Given your run with BD did you get what you ordered...
It is the same part no as this...

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-SAFARI-TUFF-H-D-CLUTCH-NISSAN-PATROL-DX-ST-ST-L-ST-S-ST-GU-Y61-4-2-TD42T/322828385413?epid=14032578650&hash=item4b2a123c85:g:lCMAAOSwAvFZ4ppa

Cheers Trevor

Unsure if these are the same clutches. My model is NSK-7699STHD. item number 02562984. According to BD and Exedy the Flywheel torque is rated at circa 1100nm. Who knows with these guys? Either way its got a 2 yr warranty so if it slips, it gets replaced. Its been a battle with these guys but they have always come around to provide the support, except this time I have to arrange for the flywheel to get machined instead of them supplying a c/o unit because they have 2 styles and cant recall which one is fitted to mine - another bee sting in reality.

[tryan277]

According to this I guess it fits the 3.0l Diesel flywheel

Part No : NSK-7699STHD
Type : Heavy Duty Safari Tuff Clutch Kit
Suit :
NISSAN PATROL DX LEAF SPRING GU, Y61 UELY61 10/2007-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX LEAF SPRING GU, Y61 UETY61 03/2013-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST COIL SPRING GU, Y61 UENY61 10/2007-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST, ST-L, ST-S, TI GU, Y61 TESY61 12/2006-10/2017 SUV 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD AT/MT
NISSAN PATROL ST COIL SPRING GU, Y61 UERY61 03/2013-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST, ST-L, ST-S, TI GU, Y61 TESY61 04/2000-12/2006 SUV 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo Direct Inj {118KW} 4WD AT/MT

Cheers Trevor

[PeeBee]

According to this I guess it fits the 3.0l Diesel flywheel

Part No : NSK-7699STHD
Type : Heavy Duty Safari Tuff Clutch Kit
Suit :
NISSAN PATROL DX LEAF SPRING GU, Y61 UELY61 10/2007-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX LEAF SPRING GU, Y61 UETY61 03/2013-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST COIL SPRING GU, Y61 UENY61 10/2007-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST, ST-L, ST-S, TI GU, Y61 TESY61 12/2006-10/2017 SUV 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD AT/MT
NISSAN PATROL ST COIL SPRING GU, Y61 UERY61 03/2013-10/2017 Cab Chassis 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {118KW} 4WD MT
NISSAN PATROL DX, ST, ST-L, ST-S, TI GU, Y61 TESY61 04/2000-12/2006 SUV 3.0 L, DIESEL, ZD30DDTi I4 16v DOHC Turbo Direct Inj {118KW} 4WD AT/MT

Cheers Trevor

Interesting Trevor. This clutch is fitted to a re-drilled Chev flywheel. This clutch is fitted to all their s/c'd, turbo and even twin turbo installations, but unsure how many have come back? Maybe its fine - who knows. the numbers on the original ebay post are still in excess of the modified UFI unit I was chasing, so think its fine. Maybe the detail is in the internal part number 02562984? I have spoken with the Exedy rep in WA about this clutch and he says BD have bought hundreds of them, since changing from the Clutch Industries unit, so I am not too worried. The short time I have had it on the road - 20klm, the original clutch was holding fine, and its rated around 60% of this one. Time will tell.

[PeeBee]

OK, bracket arrived late yesterday, so launched into it this morning, total 8 hrs to refit, run new lines and new PS cooler as suggested, fitted up inlet airbox, fitted new bonnet, took it for a quick squirt and nothing expired except a new fuel return hose on an injector has decided to leak, so all good. Tied up for the next couple of months with ;wifey do stuff; so wont be able to carry on with the tasks, but clutch is next. Glad this journey is nearing an end to be honest, won't be taking on a job like this again.7944679447

[PeeBee]

Trevor, spoke with Exedy today. The clutch I have is rated at 1100nmT at the flywheel and 1250kg clamp force. This is a value detuned by 15% so the max values are as stated plus 15%. Regards why the same clutch would be put on a 3.0ltD, well it isn't. Its all to do with the actual article number, so they have a range of clutches with the same product code, being the 7699STGD, but there is another code that is applied to match the torque rating of the destination vehicle - what that is for the 3L is unknown.


Also, another bee sting from BD. Today they inform me the clutch they have supplied will 100% fit straight on my flywheel - last week they didn't know which flywheel was fitted to the car, and the week before I needed an exchange flywheel that had been wash ground because the flywheel in mine is supposedly crowned for the Clutch Industries clutch - what a load of rubbish, but they hold my $150 credit for the exchange flywheel I supposedly don't need, so it had all better fit.

[MudRunnerTD]

Stoked for you Phil. Cant wait to see this in the Flesh. Cant wait to hear it Whistle!!

Will sound Better than @MBs for sure!! His has not made a sound for over a Year....... Bloody Chevs!!

[MB]

Was running it only two nights ago Daz and never actually stopped in the first place ya whacker :-)
I’ve still got another 3.5year timeline to catch your GQ beasty revamp top efforts mate :-)


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[MudRunnerTD]

Was running it only two nights ago Daz and never actually stopped in the first place ya whacker :-)
I’ve still got another 3.5year timeline to catch your GQ beasty revamp top efforts mate :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bhahahahaha! Owned I am Sir!!

[PeeBee]

Bhahahahaha! Owned I am Sir!!

Luv it guys. Have you fixed the rear tank MB? I will try and drop those injectors over on my next break

[MB]

Not yet either mate:-)
What injectors good man ;-)


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[PeeBee]

Replacements ex my truck ya goose! Do you still want them?

[MB]

Yes please Sir :-) [emoji106][emoji106]


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[PeeBee]

OK, back in Melb for a day then heading north again tomorrow. Took the beast out for a run after doing another radiator burp, and 5klm out, lost all gauges on the dash - bloody hell, what now. Anyway, kept driving and its very responsive in 3,4,5. So got home, parked it up and started the search, Main 75a fuse was blown, and after an hour of searching found a hastily run cable hand slumped onto the exhaust manifold - yep that will do it. Cable ties it up and away, then replaced fuse- all good. back into the garage for another 2 week rest and then its time to start fitting up the water injection, boost gauge and diving into a complete re-wire - time for a tidy up. Starting the research into the Interchiller setups on the market as focused on keeping the EGT's low. The new radiator keeps the temps down nicely as well, combined with the soluble oil coolant.

For those wondering what the sound is like from the s/c, I think if similar to running on old jeep service cookie cutters to be honest. Its nothing like the noise from Mad max - but not too intrusive, however you know its there and its a head turner when you pull up at the lights as its whining away nicely.

I also had a leak develop on one of the injector return line hoses. Swapped out the hose, no difference, so after a bit of a hunt found the return line ex the engine to the tank had a slight kink. This was straightened out and bingo, al good.

[PeeBee]

Yes please Sir :-) [emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will drop them over on my next break Mark.

[MudRunnerTD]

OK, back in Melb for a day then heading north again tomorrow. Took the beast out for a run after doing another radiator burp, and 5klm out, lost all gauges on the dash - bloody hell, what now. Anyway, kept driving and its very responsive in 3,4,5. So got home, parked it up and started the search, Main 75a fuse was blown, and after an hour of searching found a hastily run cable hand slumped onto the exhaust manifold - yep that will do it. Cable ties it up and away, then replaced fuse- all good. back into the garage for another 2 week rest and then its time to start fitting up the water injection, boost gauge and diving into a complete re-wire - time for a tidy up. Starting the research into the Interchiller setups on the market as focused on keeping the EGT's low. The new radiator keeps the temps down nicely as well, combined with the soluble oil coolant.

For those wondering what the sound is like from the s/c, I think if similar to running on old jeep service cookie cutters to be honest. Its nothing like the noise from Mad max - but not too intrusive, however you know its there and its a head turner when you pull up at the lights as its whining away nicely.

I also had a leak develop on one of the injector return line hoses. Swapped out the hose, no difference, so after a bit of a hunt found the return line ex the engine to the tank had a slight kink. This was straightened out and bingo, al good.

A Complete Re-Wire! Your Scaring the Sh1t out of me Phil! :p

[PeeBee]

Enough is enough I reckon. I have bought a heap of wire id numbers of different sizes. I think I will basically strip from the appliance, then rerun the cables to the marshall fuse boxes, a dedicated on for IGN/ACC powered devices and the mains to the rear and another fuse box in the front. Its 'kind of grown' out of control as you have seen. I expect to be finished by 2021.

[MudRunnerTD]

Enough is enough I reckon. I have bought a heap of wire id numbers of different sizes. I think I will basically strip from the appliance, then rerun the cables to the marshall fuse boxes, a dedicated on for IGN/ACC powered devices and the mains to the rear and another fuse box in the front. Its 'kind of grown' out of control as you have seen. I expect to be finished by 2021.

That is exactly what I did in the GQ mate. Even some of my old wiring from years ago scared the shit out of me. It was way way easier to just write it off and start from scratch. I have full confidence now that all my looms make sense, are all fuse protected and are not overloaded. I assumed nothing and just ran a new line. I stripped a full wheel barrow of wire out of the GQ!!! Was liberating.

Plan well. Sub boards and distribution blocks for the win mate. Good luck. If you need a hand I'm happy to give you a day.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Darren, appreciate the help. I will think this through and see how far I take it. Right now I think its the myriad of accessory wires that are the complication - taking feeds off scotch locked connections and no cable ID is a pain. I have the know-how and method, just needed the discipline 20 yrs ago to do it right - I think there is some saying around' do it right the first time and then forget about it'.

[Rossco]

Yep did the same with mine with the rebuild amazing how much crap comes out. . . Will be interesting to see with yours Phil will have to get a photo then a trip to the copper merchant[emoji6]. . .



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[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks Darren, appreciate the help. I will think this through and see how far I take it. Right now I think its the myriad of accessory wires that are the complication - taking feeds off scotch locked connections and no cable ID is a pain. I have the know-how and method, just needed the discipline 20 yrs ago to do it right - I think there is some saying around' do it right the first time and then forget about it'.

yeah i found that starting fresh was very simple. All your accessories are mounted. a few new ones too but for the most part you have them all in place. Strip out all the wire then run your main runs to your Sub blocks. Then loom out to each item one at a time and your good to go. You might get away with even using 7 core trailer wire for some of it if you wan colour but for the most part you want red and black. Go for it mate, if something doesnt work you will know why..... you have not done it's loom. you can work systematically through each accessory and you will transform your car mate.

Good luck bud, daunting as it sounds you are all over it mate. clearly have the skills and it is just time that is your killer here.

[Rossco]

Always need a beer or two wiring I find, slow & steady keep it all neat. . .

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[MudRunnerTD]

Fyi also. I found some 15amp 7 core trailer wire at Jaycar... handy.

[nissannewby]

There are ways to neaten it up a lot. Throw a PLC and basic screen in and you can run say like 1 can bus cable to the rear to a slave that then can switch on accessories. This kind of stuff is cool and would be trick.

[PeeBee]

There are ways to neaten it up a lot. Throw a PLC and basic screen in and you can run say like 1 can bus cable to the rear to a slave that then can switch on accessories. This kind of stuff is cool and would be trick.

Thanks Matt, but I am an absolute electronics dinosaur when it comes to the actual 'doing' and I also am a total hater of electronic boxes that have a zillion switches about the size of a pin head. I think in the hands of an electronic head this would be great, but for me its going to be multicore and fuse boxes I reckon. Darrens description above is pretty much where I will start, accessories and pigtails, number from there to fuses and switches - really basic. As Rossco mentioned, its a slow and steady with attention to the detail race. I have a couple of areas in need of serious cleanup - under the dash from hell and also the drivers front pillar with a 25mm dia corrugated sheath - then there are the 100 wires under the bonnet - nup, it needs a tidy up and a solid birthday. I have the time as I don't really get my recreational legs back until I get out of the mining game again.

[PeeBee]

Couple of steps forward, couple backwards. Found the fuel leak, was a leaking nut on the injector. Went for a drive today to Yarra Glen, via Mt Dandy and back, nothing blew up or caught fire, but the alternator has stopped charging, so that's for next time. A relatively new Varta crank battery decided to die over the last weeks, dropped to 3V, so luckily had another cranker sitting around, that's a win or now.
Measured up for the interchiller and made a cardboard box template, found a hiding spot for it, so will place the order this week on it. Still stewing over the cost of the W2A unit, measured up the avail room and will start the hunt in earnest. Davis Craig pump arrived, liquid inlet tank also on its way.
Ordered another s/c drive pulley with the correct offset to get the belts aligned, will be here in a week or so.

Vehicle is a dream to drive, I gave it the boot leaving my brothers place and he said it sound amazing, and the torque dumps the drivers side rear corner down under hard acceleration. Floating along in 4th is so easy now, plant the foot and off it goes, but still not used to the off accelerator jolt yet as its nothing like a lagging throttle response, it 100 - zero in a snap. Just different. Was a mild day today, but temps on gauges only got to 1/3. Clutch goes in Dec 9.

[PeeBee]

Pulled the trigger today on a Bullet integrated intercooler that sits inside the existing inlet manifold and is the same as poindexter has installed. Exhausted all other options due to format and ridiculous cost for a full custom unit - crazy numbers. Following up with the interchiller purchase in the new year. Inlet manifold needs to go to QLD for the fitment also, another delay in getting this thing out and about but gives me time for the wiring I guess by default. I/c due some time in late Dec/early jan.

[PeeBee]

OK, here is a pic of the intergrated I/c core that sits inside the inlet manifold and directly under the s/c itself.79698

[Winnie]

That is an awesome piece of gear Phil. I have been really enjoying watching your progress on the mammoth.

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[Rossco]

Oh wow that really is very nice. .

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[PeeBee]

That is an awesome piece of gear Phil. I have been really enjoying watching your progress on the mammoth.

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Thanks Chris, its been pretty interesting from my end as well at times!!! The wife continues to ask ' when are you going to stop spending', and I keep lying and saying ' I've finished'. then find something else I simply can't live without and she gets another surprise on the Visa card - she loves surprises!!! I did the right thing though this last roster and said I had a couple more 'small things to pick up', which is sort of true because the interchiller is smallish, and the intercooler core is so small it fits inside the manifold, and the pump is smallish in size and the space to fit it is 'smallish' so I sort of told the truth in my demented mind. I picked up some smallish temp probes and controller today for the pre and aft cooled air to the engine - very small they were.

[PeeBee]

Oh wow that really is very nice. .

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Yes, Its neat alright. The shot is from their album, mine is being made now. They will add the boost gauge and temp probe tapping for me as well. The units is a change over on my standard manifold, which is a kind gesture as it will save me some time for sure, but won't get the goods until late Jan it seems - simply too close to Xmas and I think the core might be from ADRAD in SA and tanks in QLD somewhere.

[PeeBee]

The wiring strip out has begun. Can anyone identify what this connector is for? Its in the original factory loom, disappears into the front passenger side behind the headlight. I think its something to do with the charge circuit. It reads the same voltage as the alternator, however the alternator is not charging right now - 12.2V - so looking to solve that one also.79769

[MudRunnerTD]

No but you just found a great spot to take a Trigger from under the engine bay if you need it. Is it 12v when the ignition is on? It really could be anything? especially since you have a conversion. Nissan are renowned for fitting full looms and just leaving plugs floating around.

[PeeBee]

The extended loom, has a crimped eye on the other end - maybe its a spare charge wire to the second battery? Appears the alternator I have fitted must have a sense circuit off a different plug. Its 12V with ignition on or off. I simply don't remember where it came off - was 6 months ago I disconnected the old front end of the motor.

[PeeBee]

Rossco, any idea since you have had your looms in pieces?@matfew?
79770
Here are the cables, looking at wiring diagram the lug should be the earth, unsure what the smaller one is - maybe off the old a/c clutch - need to check the connector tomorrow

[PeeBee]

Wiring purged today, und79771er bonnet and inside the cabin, plus removal of sat phone and cd stacker and hands free etc - Codan HF coming out for an upgraded model.

79773

[MudRunnerTD]

Wiring purged today, und79771er bonnet and inside the cabin, plus removal of sat phone and cd stacker and hands free etc - Codan HF coming out for an upgraded model.

79773

SIK!! This will be Liberating mate.

[PeeBee]

I feel as free as a moth in a cyclone, liberated NOT, just now realising the job ahead, have not even stared with the rats nest under the dash - that's tomorrow, then into the back of the beast.

[Rossco]

Rossco, any idea since you have had your looms in pieces?@matfew?
79770
Here are the cables, looking at wiring diagram the lug should be the earth, unsure what the smaller one is - maybe off the old a/c clutch - need to check the connector tomorrowCrickies Phil, wouldn't have a clue mate. . Haha sorry but good luck does look like fun . .

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[PeeBee]

Crickies Phil, wouldn't have a clue mate. . Haha sorry but good luck does look like fun . .

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BS I call, YOU DO know what it is, stop toying with me.

[PeeBee]

OK, new clutch installed, light action, but noise from gearbox increased for first 200m then settled down a bit, gearbox oil changed today as well. Drive is even more savage I guess and acceleration noticeably better, so suspect the original clutch was slipping to some degree. Found a double clutch action eased the shock/jolt on downshifts, alternator now charging - missed a wire on reconnection, so that's a relief on a brand new 300amp unit. Back into the wiring tomorrow for a bit then have to sort the garage out before heading back to site. Happy its getting closer, still have the alignment of belt issue to some degree, however will see what effect the new manifold and intercooler assy have on the issue.

[PeeBee]

Attacked one of the Diesel particulate filters to remove the guts - what a job - cant drill or hole saw the stuff out, need to punch it out, lot of effort79823
One for engineering, one for touring.

[PeeBee]

New coolant surge tank arrived from China today, 7 days from sketches to on my doorstep. I have lagged it in a foam insulation for temp control.79824

[PeeBee]

Mounted surge tank, insulated, waiting for the rest of the parts to arrive

7984979848

[PeeBee]

Back on home on break, more 'stuff about to be added. New inlet manifold with integrated intercooler core, DCDC charger, have lined up the interchiller for end of FEB, going all out with the Stage 2 kit, should be good800408004180042

[0-TJ-0]

The interchiller looks like it'll cause more harm then good jammed in there like that. I assume it's a proven design and all good, just looks like a big ol obstruction.

[PeeBee]

The interchiller looks like it'll cause more harm then good jammed in there like that. I assume it's a proven design and all good, just looks like a big ol obstruction.

This is the w2a heat exchanger, integrated between the outlet of the s/c and located inside the inlet plenum. Its a standard fitment. The interchiller is an additional module that runs off the a/c circuit. Have a look at fi interchillers.com The interchiller circuit cools the w2a intercooler water to circa -20 degC in the stage 2 kit. There are two new heat exchangers in the circuit - a w2a for the air entering the engine and two a/c gas to water heat exchanger to chill the water. The Stage 2 system uses the original car condenser then adds another 2 condensors in series to sequentially suck the heat out of the refrigerant. The heat exchanger in the inlet manifold is made by ADRAD in Adelaide. If its efficiency is as good as the alum ADRAD I have up front, should be no problems.

What is deceptive perhaps is the missing interface plate that sits sandwiched between the s/c and the coil - is a pretty neat setup.

[0-TJ-0]

Well there ya go, learning every day. I've never touched superchargers so definitely never seen under the petticoat. Interchiller looks like the business. Gunna be a good setup when you've got it all done mate.

[PeeBee]

Well there ya go, learning every day. I've never touched superchargers so definitely never seen under the petticoat. Interchiller looks like the business. Gunna be a good setup when you've got it all done mate.

I think so too, its been a journey all right and sort of the more you do the more you understand the areas that can be optimised. I am after longevity and a solid package, which is what I should get. I didn't know anything about s/c before I started, and still have a lot to learn as diesel applications have not been as developed or optimised as the petrol variants. I read the books and ask the questions, its all knowledge.

[Winnie]

How long until the next weekend away Phil?

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[MB]

Be weary of the cheek old head young shoulders :-) [emoji106]
Bags first for a Yonk outa the soft stuff from the screws [emoji106][emoji106]



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[PeeBee]

How long until the next weekend away Phil?

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Chris,

in reality I could be out in it now however its still got '8 things' I am trying to sort out, the 3 biggies are the finalisation of the wiring, another 3 days I reckon, the total resolution of the Intercooler/interchiller setup and the chassis plating. I will hook into the wiring this break, and swap out the inlet manifold, then its maybe the plating of the chassis next break, so that the end of Feb. The Interchiller is going to be ordered mid feb for alignment with 2nd break, then install it mechanically. I would like to think I can get it actually charged up that third roster but might have to wait until mid March break - assuming everything goes to plan. The second condenser location is going to be a challenge, its 500 x 400 x 10mm thick. Its normally supplied with a1600cfm SPAL pusher fan and sits in front of the radiator. I am running out of space with the oil cooler, factory a/c condensor and fan, the additional 2500cfm elec booster fan takes up a bit of space. I might end up mounting it horizontally above the engine , directly below the bonnet scoop inlet as that hole is huge - but that makes the a/c lines longer and plumbing a pain - just a few more problems. I want it on the road asap, but am not going to rush it like in the past. I want to be at Licola this year - work stuffed me up last year, so it definitely will be done by then. I then want it thru engineering before doing much else, but that will be an easy appointment as I have already opened the dialogue with the assessor and am following his lead.

So maybe squeeze in a weekend late April/May - will certainly give you the heads up along with the rest of the herd.

[PeeBee]

Be weary of the cheek old head young shoulders :-) [emoji106]
Bags first for a Yonk outa the soft stuff from the screws [emoji106][emoji106]



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No problem, you can be the driver of the tug!

[PeeBee]

New manifold went on today, holes didn't line up again, just like the first one, however the belt alignment is now perfect, so will run the 6 rib belt just to confirm then swap out to the 8 rib later. Setting up the temp sensors again and also the redarc low water unit.

Next job is the chassis plates.

[PeeBee]

Inlet air temp probes 1 and 2 installed and operational, needed to run a 1/8" NPT tap thru a socket - $68 later, two probes sitting nice and proud in the airstream. Have extended the looms on the 2 EGT sensors to get them up near the drivers side pillar, along with the boost gauge. Mounted the Codan NGT handset after making bracket no. 2 - the first one was devoured by the garage monster and will no doubt turn up one day. Short day tomorrow, garage hand back day before returning to site.
Will have a look at the opportunity for the additional a/c condenser with luck. Took the beast out for a squirt, the 6 rib belts are squealing under hard acceleration, so I think the 8 ribs will be going on pretty soon also.

[PeeBee]

Thought I was getting closer, but the list just grew again.

Plate chassis
Low water alarm
Boost gauge
Water mist injection
Aux fuel gauge
Bulge blowers
A/c clutch wire
Windscreen light power
Shuroo
Difflock compressor
Vacuum reservoir
Vacuum pump
Codan connect up
JingPing rear floor
Interchiller installation
Surge tank double insulate
Boost pump wire and speed control
Install boost pump flow meter
Swap out 8 rib belt
Power to roof rack lights
Weld out front diff brace
Weld up rear diff brace for model
Main large compressor and ringmain
Cel-Fi install

Bloody hell, I am getting tired of this right now.

[MB]

Crikey Philstar, you’ll get there Legend!
If anyone can..........

https://youtu.be/qztuEucrNBc


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[PeeBee]

Interchiller Stage 2 kit ordered today, 3 weeks leadtime at the moment.

https://fiinterchillers.com/products/

https://youtu.be/ydax3oIz9cA

[PeeBee]

Progress over the last 2 days, but some more annoying issues

1) Redarc low water alarm fitted
2) Boost gauge installed - VDO direct pressure line - no boost on gauge under WOT.
3) Aux fuel tank gauge refitted - no dash light power feed to gauge - was working before
4) Made bracket for ARB diff lock compressor - mounted up well in different location to original. reconfigure the air inlet filter
5) Made bracket for brake vac pump reservoir. Big reservoir with gauge
6) Hooked up 2nd fuel flowmeter sensor circuit
7) Tidied up difflock wiring loom, reconnected to compressor - no power to the switch
8) mounted new triple gauge cluster with 2 x EGT gauges and Boost - no dash lights in gauges.
9) no smoke testing today.

Tomorrow - if I have the strength/mindset, look into the electrical issues above, however bigger prize is to shift the existing a/c condenser back towards the radiator so the stage 2 interchiller condenser will fit with the existing 12V fans - going to be a painful day I think.

[PeeBee]

Finished for this roster break. Twisted and bent pressure hose was the culprit on the boost gauge, so 1 hr later, all fixed. Spaced out the electric fans to generate the pocket for the additional condenser. Grill still goes on with a bit of care, so happy days. Still can't find the a/c trigger wire, looks like I will have to try and trace it from the switch, or simply leave it to the a/c guys when they run the new hoses and charge it up.

[PeeBee]

Few pics of this rosters results. Need to re-stick the pod down though - next roster break.

805488054980550

[PeeBee]

OK, interchiller in my hot hands, looking to install this roster break. Plus a new replacement condenser to replace the 23 YO one, and also a power upgrade pulley for the s/c to compensate for the intercooler pressure drop
80647
80648
80649

[PeeBee]

Progress. Should finish the installation tomorrow to the point I can hook up the water circuit80657
8065880660

[PeeBee]

Another big day, but steady steady. Interchiller is now mounted in a bomb proof enclosure, high volume 12V fan mounted, needed a new bracket as expected, will start running the lines for gas and water tomorrow. Looking for a slightly smaller oil cooler, circa 150 w x 200 high to get the heat load off the two condensors ( existing is 250 sq.). I will retain the second tube heat exchanger as it works well

[PeeBee]

Nightmare day, hate this car, glad to go back to work, just not happening, bee stings by the handful.

[mudski]

Nightmare day, hate this car, glad to go back to work, just not happening, bee stings by the handful.

Need a hug mate?


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[PeeBee]

Better day today, water to air circuit plumbed up with pressure, flowmeter and temperature sensors - just need to power them up now. Lines insulated. Resolved the 'odd ball fitting' off the condenser - metric m20 x 1.5P, Patrol a Part assisted with the solution, great service. Next roster will see the a/c hooked up. Noticed the s/c pulley has been touching the bonnet, so luck would have it the higher boost pulley is in my hands, so will fit it tomorrow morning before shed clean up ritual80676
80677[ATTACH=CONFIG]80678[/ATTACH)
Have also insulated the pump housing

[PeeBee]

OK, finished for this break, smaller pulley installed, boost gauge showing 3PSI at idle, fuel consumption 2.75LPHR, up from 1.5LPHR when naturally aspirated. Bigger pump, bigger injectors. Took it for a quick spin, bit more punch, again, first and second pointless, but noticeable in 3rd thru 5th. Need to sort out the ac pump wire next before it gets gassed. Still some more interchiller hoses to connect or more correctly replace the original hoses from cabin evaporator to ac pump, then tie in the interchiller hoses. Coming up to 10 months off the road in April, so looking forward to getting it back on the road.

[mudski]

Jesus christ! Theres so much going on under than bonnet, I don't know where to look! I haven't read back but how does it go now with the S/c fitted up?

[PeeBee]

Mark, its punchy. instant response, at times under hard acceleration it wants to drift a bit on the road, sort of like some sort of weird torque reaction tipping it off line. The s/c whines a bit, and even more now with the 65mm pulley, which is supposed to equate to 18-20psi, but I suspect with the pressure drop across the water to air intercooler its more like a net boost around 15psi, which is fine for what I want. I have a pile of sensors hooked up in order to learn a bit about how to drive it to best effect. As you know, there is a heap of info out on the net about just about everything, but little of it validated. All this started with the post from johno90 who played around with a home grown setup with good results.

The application of the interchiller setup to super chill the w2a intercooler on a diesel is a first I think for the mob I bought it from. They have provided excellent service and are very responsive to questions. I am targeting lower egt's than previous and from what I have read, this seems to be a valid pathway. The journey has been far from easy to say the least, lots of stuff simply having to be designed and resolved as it arose. Right now I have the last of the a/c hoses to resolve, then find that damn clutch wire - and off to the ac guy to gas it up after ne makes me two custom fittings.

[mudski]

I'm keen to see this beast in action now.

[PeeBee]

I'm keen to see this beast in action now.

See you at Licola!

[poindexter]

Did you retain the existing condenser in front of the radiator?

[PeeBee]

Yes the stage 2 kit uses both the factory and a second condenser

[poindexter]

I have been talking to the interchiller guys, and he mentioned that you had measured high intake air temps, which was why he recommended the stage 2 setup.
Very impressive setup.
But something has been bothering me over the last few months with your install, the drilling out of the manifold holes, the supercharger snout interfering with the thermo housing, when mine had no such problems,
then it occurred to me, did bullet supply the manifold insulator spacers?

[PeeBee]

I have been talking to the interchiller guys, and he mentioned that you had measured high intake air temps, which was why he recommended the stage 2 setup.
Very impressive setup.
But something has been bothering me over the last few months with your install, the drilling out of the manifold holes, the supercharger snout interfering with the thermo housing, when mine had no such problems,
then it occurred to me, did bullet supply the manifold insulator spacers?

Well, I don't know. I purchased the kit and had it shipped to BD so they could do the dummy alignment. The whole lot was trial assembled on a motor and that photo furnished as evidence it fitted. The single photos shows the assy being sweet, but they never ran it to check the pulley alignment, plus you cannot see if all the manifold bolts were fitted either. I seal clamped the phenolic plates to the head and every single bolt lined up. I left them clamped overnight then removed the bolts next morning and tried to clamp the supercharger down. Only the 4 centre bolts would go in, all the rest were miles out. I think I see where you are going - my plates are perhaps 8mm thick at a guess, could be 6mm. Funny enough the same misalignment happened with the new manifold as well, however I was ready for it this time. When I upgraded to the higher pressure pulley, I bought the pulley off Bullet - $120 cheaper than BD by the way, and I gave them the offset required. They machined their pulley to suit and also supplied a set of spacers and new bolts.. I ended up staying with they Unbrako 12.9's as the ones from bullet are not head stamped and one let go early in the piece - might be something worth changing to be honest.
I am still running the 6 rib belt, however it slips under a heavy rev, so the 8 rib will go on when I get back. I found a 'green backed commercial belt that is a lot stiffer and harder than the normal rubber belt, so will give these run.
All the remaining hoses and fittings have arrived, excepting the 2 custom ones that the a/c guy needs to make. Getting closer - again!

Where are you up to?

[poindexter]

Sounds like you do have the spacers then, just strange that all my bolts dropped in.

Spent some time "optimising" the engine location, happy with where is sits, now to see if the hood will shut!
Doing the fuel lines, hydoboost and seeing how the shifter will work.
Has been slow progress so far, however that has allowed me to look into some other areas that need sorting, like the interchiller etc.
Where did you get your 8rib pulleys from? I know Leroy did the crank, but what about the others.