GQ rear body mounts - replacement tips please :-)

[Silver]

G'day,

As the small barn door now touches the hard plastic bumper from time to time, attention is required.

I understand they are only available from Nissan, and that there is a view that all of the mounts should be replaced at the same time.

The rear ones are said to be a problem because the nut is captive and often spins - this is the issue I'd like tips on.

Others have just made up rubber washers, or used metal washers, of appropriate thickness to take up the slack. This could be tempting if the rear mount bolts are sei2ed into the captive nuts

Yet others have ground down the crush tubes - which won't fix my problem :-)

There is no body lift.

Thanks in advance :-)

[YNOT]

If you lift up the carpet in the cargo area above where the body mounts are you will see rubber bungs in the floor. Removing those bungs gives you access to the captive nut. Spray the bolt thread and cative nut with WD40 once or twice a day every day for a week. Then when you are ready to remove the bolts find the right size impact socket and use a strong rattle gun. You basically only get one attempt to remove them before the captive nut spins and the whole job gets ugly so hit 'em hard with a good rattle gun after soaking them and you should be OK.

Tony

[Silver]

Didn't think to look there for a bung Tony - thanks again for the advice!!

[MudRunnerTD]

I assume you are sorted Silver,

I post this for others that may look at this thread during a Body Lift as you will have the same problem.

you will find that a piece of 20mm or 25mm square tube will go down that hole and fit real nice over the top of the captive nut and you should be able to crack it as Tony stated. If you still have trouble getting hold of the captive you might need to open the bung hole up a bit to get a socket down there, i had both rear mounts punch through the lower mount panel skin and had to open the holes up a bit with a cold chisel. It all goes under the carpet anyways so dont worry to much.

Cheers MR

[MudRunnerTD]

SNIP: Then when you are ready to remove the bolts find the right size impact socket and use a strong rattle gun. You basically only get one attempt to remove them before the captive nut spins and the whole job gets ugly so hit 'em hard with a good rattle gun after soaking them and you should be OK.

Tony

This is where this VVVVVV Rattle gun comes into its own!! It is a BEAST for a BIG CRACK! It will smash that out in a blink.

5 STAR Recommendation for this tool

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/06/3.jpg

[growler2058]

This is where this VVVVVV Rattle gun comes into its own!! It is a BEAST for a BIG CRACK! It will smash that out in a blink.

5 STAR Recommendation for this tool

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/06/3.jpg

X2 these are the ducks guts get yer hands on 1 used mine last wk to get an alternator pulley off

[Silver]

thanks all - the time has come! I had to lift the small door over the bumper over ride after the trip to Scenic Rim :-)

[Silver]

what is the best way of lifting the body off the chassis sufficiently to allow access to the rubbers?

I assume I'd first undo all the bolts on both sides, and then either lift an entire side with a couple of jacks and pieces of wood then supported by stands, or is there enough flex to just lift locally?

[patch697]

what is the best way of lifting the body off the chassis sufficiently to allow access to the rubbers?

I assume I'd first undo all the bolts on both sides, and then either lift an entire side with a couple of jacks and pieces of wood then supported by stands, or is there enough flex to just lift locally?

I know when doing body lifts you undo the 2 bolts already discussed above first & then all the bolts along one side only. The body will lift with a jack & you can get to work on the mounts.Then once you've replaced mounts & bolts on that side, you move to the other side & repeat the process

[Arman]

I liked the rattle gun...how much it priced?

[MudRunnerTD]

I liked the rattle gun...how much it priced?

Under $100 and as little as $50. They give them away occasionally with 4WD Action Magazine subscriptions here too. If you can chase one down well worth the investment.

[PattyWgnOwen]

i think I payed about $70 for mine at the 4x4 show.
when i lefted to 4 inches, I needed to swap the rear tailahsft from end to end, and the compressor and rattle gun did not fit into the space available, but with a flexy socket set joint and the 12v rattle gun, they all came apart where a three foot breaker bar did not even look like working?

they are not a rattle gun, they are an inertia tool, which means they spin up until the inertia is enough to throw the locking plate, and then it stop with a smack putting all that inertia into the nut or bolt you are attached to. Better than a rattle gun, and much like smacking a ring spanner with a 40 pound sledge hammer.