DIY Wheel Bearing Adjustment.

[MudRunnerTD]

So in heading away for Christmas and as part of my pre-trip check I tightened my front wheel bearings. While I was at it I thought I'd take some pics and show how easy it is.

So I have jacked the front off the ground and put axle stands under the front diff.

By grabbing your wheel at 12 & 6 you can check for play by trying to rock your wheel. Mine had a little play so I am just nipping them up.

Leave the wheel on and jacked up.

Turn your hubs to the Locked position

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/246.jpg

Undo the hub bolts

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/247.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/248.jpg

Remove the hub.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/249.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/250.jpg

If you have a GQ you will now be looking at a big nut. Mine is a GU and some of the late GQs run this system too. Not a bad upgrade if you have the old Nut system.

The GU runs a locking ring held in by 2 little Phillips head screws.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/251.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/252.jpg

Undo the 2 screws and set aside.

Using pointy nose pliers grab the locking ring and remove. This can be a little tricky as the grease sucks it on but easy enough. Try from a few spots.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/253.jpg

Now your looking at the tension nut. That's where you want to be.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/254.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/255.jpg

Using the special hub spanner off eBay. (You should all have one and carry it in your spares.) Tighten the nut until it's got load. Some load.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/256.jpg

At this point I don't use the a torque wrench, just feel. There is a little room here IMO.

Tighten the nut. You will see the lock ring has heaps of holes in it. You need to tighten to a position that the holes are over the threaded holes for the Phillips head screws to go back in, you might need a few goes to get it perfect.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/257.jpg

Check the wheel for slop. Spin the wheel both ways a few times and if your happy with how it spins then bolt the hub back on. Your done.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/258.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/259.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/260.jpg

Don't forget to unlock the hubs

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/12/261.jpg

Happy Travels.




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[Bob]

Great Write Up . How about making it a Sticky

mudrunner

[Hodge]

Never done this my self. But this is the most detailed photo guide I've seen. Will definitely have a crack now. Thanks Dazza !

[John43ls]

Excellent step-by-step photos. I feel like I've already done it! Thanks heaps.

[Col.T]

Good one Muddy.
Works for me. Just a minor quibble though. As I was taught how to grease wheel bearings, at the end of re-assembly, 1) tighten up to a specified max., 2) turn the wheel several times both directions to ensure all is correctly 'seated' then 3) release to zero torque and spin several times again then 4) finally tighten up to effectively finger tight.

The torsion wrench settings I think that suite the Patrol (GU and GQ are close enough) are 1) about 185 N.m.....(and this is a pretty big time twist and 4) 4N.m ...not much more than finger tight.
Roughly 60+ years have made me a creature of habit and anyway, I spent dough on a torsion wrench and I'm gonna get value out if it!!!
Cheers,
Col

[Throbbinhood]

Nice write up. Playing with fire with one of those screws though, not much for the screw driver to grab :P

[MudRunnerTD]

Nice write up. Playing with fire with one of those screws though, not much for the screw driver to grab :P

Lol! Yes your right they have seen better days. I have undone them a few time now but from memory I did that damage the first time I had to undo them 150,000 kms ago.

[MudRunnerTD]

Good one Muddy.
Works for me. Just a minor quibble though. As I was taught how to grease wheel bearings, at the end of re-assembly, 1) tighten up to a specified max., 2) turn the wheel several times both directions to ensure all is correctly 'seated' then 3) release to zero torque and spin several times again then 4) finally tighten up to effectively finger tight.

The torsion wrench settings I think that suite the Patrol (GU and GQ are close enough) are 1) about 185 N.m.....(and this is a pretty big time twist and 4) 4N.m ...not much more than finger tight.
Roughly 60+ years have made me a creature of habit and anyway, I spent dough on a torsion wrench and I'm gonna get value out if it!!!
Cheers,
Col

Yeah all your torque measurements are correct although good luck with the 185nm! It's bloody tight and I wrecked one of those wrench sockets trying to achieve it.

This write up was more aimed and a routine maintenance when servicing. Check for slop, if loose you can nip them up in 5 minutes without worrying about the torque settings.

If you have just replaced the bearings then it's a much bigger task and as you say you need to apply the routine you have clearly outlined so thanks for the add mate. Winner.

I have found Patrol front wheel bearings have a tendancy to become a little sloppy and need a nip up a couple of times a year. An inspection and repacking is probably in order next time for sure.

[GQtdauto]

First time I did the GQ I removed the wheel , where were you ?

[my third 256]

Just been out and checked mine and were a little sloppy so 10 minutes later all fixed thanks for the write up

[Hodge]

Just done my front right wheel before. From jacking up the car, to jacking down the car, it literally took 10 minutes thanks to this write up!
Few points of interest I found though. Those blood Phillipshead screws are so soft... Very very easy to strip. Gotta be careful.
And ...
I also found oil where my screw driver is pointing. Very little, but to me it's oil not grease. Inner axle seals ??? MudRunnerTD

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71303&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71302&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71304&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71305&stc=1

[MudRunnerTD]

Hodge hi Eric, nah looks normal mate. That's right on your wheel bearings so that will just be bearing grease.

Yes those bloody screws are soft!!!

[Hodge]

@Hodge (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?u=15680) hi Eric, nah looks normal mate. That's right on your wheel bearings so that will just be bearing grease.

Yes those bloody screws are soft!!!

Thanks Darren. Also, mine tightened up exactly one locking ring hole space. Was enough to take out the full slop of the wheel from 12 to 6.
I only done it hand tight with a very firm two-hand grip on that adjustment tool. I didn't put a half inch ratchet onto it or anything. Should be alright ?

[MudRunnerTD]

Yeah sounds good mate.

[threedogs]

MudRunnerTD ,,Great write up Darren, I need to do mine later this week.
Is it worth pin punching the hub and the FWH so it goes back
at the same spot. Always did that with the tojo.lol

[MudRunnerTD]

Not really mate, just lock it before you take it off. There is no keyway to line up or anything.

[threedogs]

Might change out those two Phillips head screws in favour
of some button head allen screws,,,,,just need to figure
out the thread,,,shouldnt be too hard..

[Hodge]

So just jumped on the freeway for first time since I nipped the bearings up a tad... At around 80-90km/h , I am getting horrible wheel wobbles... Steering wheel has the shakes like the industrial rock crusher... Car is undriveable at those K's.
Could tightening them up that little bit cause this ? MudRunnerTD , Darren thoughts ?

I also rotated my tyres at the same time, one step clockwise... So this may or may not have contributed ?

[threedogs]

Hodge ,,I think your rotation is wrong as now you have front and rear tyre to steer with.
Have you lost any weights off any of your front tyres

[Hodge]

@Hodge (http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/member.php?u=15680) ,,I think your rotation is wrong as now you have front and rear tyre to steer with.
Have you lost any weights off any of your front tyres

I don't think any are missing. I do this clockwise rotation every 5k stringently and have never had anything like this happened. Except this time I nipped up the bearings... Which, I doubt are my trouble with the wobbles personally.

[jay see]

Jack it up and recheck.
It could have needed a run to settle.

I normally recheck after I do mine.

I believe that tighter is better, but I'm not mechanic.

[threedogs]

you may need a front wheel balance imho

[Clunk]

I don't think any are missing. I do this clockwise rotation every 5k stringently and have never had anything like this happened. Except this time I nipped up the bearings... Which, I doubt are my trouble with the wobbles personally.
Have you tried it with the original wheel on it before you did the rotation?

[Hodge]

Have you tried it with the original wheel on it before you did the rotation?

Nah I haven't. Well... I have but not at those speeds. So I rotated the tyres and when I was at front wheels, I noticed the slop from 12-6. Put all wheels back on (rotated) went for a drive, but max speed was 70, and noticed NO wobble. Came home and nipped up the bearings. And today on the highway copped the wobbles...

[MudRunnerTD]

Interesting, can't imagine tightening the wheel bearings would result in the wobbles. makes no sense at all. in fact one of the things to check when chasing the answer is to tighten the wheel bearings. I'd start with a wheel balance to check that, if one of your rears had thrown a weight you would not feel that until you fitted it to the front.

[Hodge]

Interesting, can't imagine tightening the wheel bearings would result in the wobbles. makes no sense at all. in fact one of the things to check when chasing the answer is to tighten the wheel bearings. I'd start with a wheel balance to check that, if one of your rears had thrown a weight you would not feel that until you fitted it to the front.
Thanks Darren.
What you said makes sense. I also wondered , if I lost a weight or something on the rear left ( which is now on the front left ) , why I didn't get any wobbles or anything before roation. But like you said bringing it to the front will exacerbate the issue. Makes sense.

Also sorry for thread crapping about my issues. This is after all bearing tightening DIY guide.

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[Jonesy_sa]

FYI - if you have a GQ and the hexagonal nut and lock washers that need bending; you can purchase the nuts and washer as seen here as kit from patrolapart, eBay etc.
I highly recommend it!


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[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks Darren.
What you said makes sense. I also wondered , if I lost a weight or something on the rear left ( which is now on the front left ) , why I didn't get any wobbles or anything before roation. But like you said bringing it to the front will exacerbate the issue. Makes sense.

Also sorry for thread crapping about my issues. This is after all bearing tightening DIY guide.

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If you were out of balance on a rear wheel you would not feel t in the car. most balance all 4 for tyre wear issues but the rears will not vibrate through the car very much but the front will be hideous through the steering wheel. A lot of places only balance the front 2 and only do 4 on request. Dumb and Lazy in my opinion. Check the balance mate.

Note all your info here is welcome and adds to the thread. it also problem solves for future searches.

[Hodge]

I just helped a workmate out doing his on a 2009 Patrol (my old 3L).
Done the right side. No issues.
We done the left side, all good. But when I was putting the hub back on. It just would not go all the way. There was a 5mm gap .
So I slowly put the allan bolts back on, and done the up slowly one by one. And the bolts them selves ended up marrying up the hub flush.
So, could this just be the axle movement ? It may have come out a bit when we took the hub off ? MudRunnerTD

[MudRunnerTD]

Did you lock the hub? It sounds like it was not aligned properly. I'm thinking you just engaged the hub but that should not be an issue. Put the car in reverse and see if you her a click as you roll back. Then jack it up again and make sure the front is not locked

[threedogs]

Thanks Darren.
What you said makes sense. I also wondered , if I lost a weight or something on the rear left ( which is now on the front left ) , why I didn't get any wobbles or anything before roation. But like you said bringing it to the front will exacerbate the issue. Makes sense.

Also sorry for thread crapping about my issues. This is after all bearing tightening DIY guide.

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PPl dont normally need a balance on the rear wheels.
but most do when buying a set of tyres, so in theory your wobble may
return next rotation as you are again introducing a rear wheel to the front.

[bobin51]

excellent so easy to follow thanks heaps bobin 51

[jay see]

Hmm , something else I need to check.

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[10G]

Brilliant stuff MudRunnerTD, this is exactly what I needed to see to learn what to do should I need to tighten these things up on trips etc.
Thanks again.

[10G]

Brilliant stuff MudRunnerTD, this is exactly what I needed to see to learn what to do should I need to tighten these things up on trips etc.
Thanks again.

[Hodge]

Hey Darren MudRunnerTD .
Decided to triple check and nip up my bearing before I replace panhard bushes and fit a new draglink.
When I took off the passenger hub I noticed a small pool of oil and/or water at the bottom. It was hard to tell whether it was more watery or more oily.
I'm assuming its either the seal from the diff end ( if oil leak) has a weep or water may have gone in behind the hub somehow. I have done 10+ water crossings since my last re-check.
I'm just brainstoming here mate. Thoughts ?
In the photo you can see the small pool in front of my finger.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79409&stc=1http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=79408&stc=1

[mudnut]

Take the lowest bolt out of the bottom swivel bearing plate. If there is oil or water it should come out there. I always run a small bead of silicon between the hub and the hub lock to stop water ingress.

[MudRunnerTD]

Take the lowest bolt out of the bottom swivel bearing plate. If there is oil or water it should come out there. I always run a small bead of silicon between the hub and the hub lock to stop water ingress.

Hodge yeah take out one of the lower king pin bearing bolts and see if anything drains out. If nothing your good to go.

[Hodge]

Hodge yeah take out one of the lower king pin bearing bolts and see if anything drains out. If nothing your good to go.Cheers fellas. Will crack one open tomorrow..
So, let's assume it's oil.
That's the axle seal right?
Which will need a full bearing kit put through?

[MudRunnerTD]

Cheers fellas. Will crack one open tomorrow..
So, let's assume it's oil.
That's the axle seal right?
Which will need a full bearing kit put through?

No, it will need a new axle seal. Will and Should ate 2 different words mate 😉

If the seal is gone and you ha e never done a rebuild then it really will make a difference. How many kms has your car done mate?

[Hodge]

No, it will need a new axle seal. Will and Should ate 2 different words mate [emoji6]

If the seal is gone and you ha e never done a rebuild then it really will make a difference. How many kms has your car done mate?140k.
And apart from tightening the bearings as per this thread, nothing else had been touched or regreased, like , ever.

[Hodge]

Hodge yeah take out one of the lower king pin bearing bolts and see if anything drains out. If nothing your good to go.Drizabone both sides .
I guess , most likely bit of water got through auto hubs ... So bead of silicone a trick as muddy suggested ?
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/10/28.jpg

[BrazilianY60]

Thank you MudRunnerTD for the detailed explanation. Changed the tires on the GU today and took it for an alignment. The technician checked for all the bushings (all good) and for wheel play before setting up all the alignment gear, and actually found play on both sides. He ended up not setting up the gear and told me to adjust the bearings first and then go back for alignment. So here I am looking for knowledge from this great forum.

I don't have the lock nut tool but it seems easy to make one. Meanwhile, I'll give it a shot trying to turn the locking nut using a pair of "bent nose" circlip pliers. Lets see how that goes.

Cheers from Brazil!

[Cuppa]

Thank you MudRunnerTD for the detailed explanation. Changed the tires on the GU today and took it for an alignment. The technician checked for all the bushings (all good) and for wheel play before setting up all the alignment gear, and actually found play on both sides. He ended up not setting up the gear and told me to adjust the bearings first and then go back for alignment. So here I am looking for knowledge from this great forum.

I don't have the lock nut tool but it seems easy to make one. Meanwhile, I'll give it a shot trying to turn the locking nut using a pair of "bent nose" circlip pliers. Lets see how that goes.

Cheers from Brazil!

I made do with a home made tool for the first couple of years I had our GU. Buying a proper tool given how cheap they are & easier to use than the one I made had me wishing I'd just bought one in the first place. My home made one consisted of a length of steel bar with two pegs welded to it. Suggest you find an ebay seller willing to post to you from here (for future use) unless you can replicate the 'socket' type tool yourself. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/193557575219

[BrazilianY60]

Thanks Cuppa!
I can definitely replicate it myself. Just wanting to tighten the bearings before Friday to get the alignment done and I won't probably have time to tackle the tool construction before that.

Another way to build the tool that crossed my mind is looking for a pipe with the appropriate diameter, cutting two "less then a half-moon" out of it leaving the two teeth for lock ring engagement and welding a nut on the other end. Then instead of driving it with the square half inch ratchet alone, I would drive it with the ratchet plus corresponding socket to the nut.

[MB]

In a rush as you are BZ Mate a baby sized cold chizel and lightweight self torque tapping hammer always works. I really should buy the tool one of these days too [emoji736][emoji106]


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[MB]

FWIW: (Bush Needs) Tap away lightly on your nuts when nearly home on the threads to compress dodgey washers, until your baby light hammer starts pinging/bouncing back.
1/8 turn tap backwards (disclaimer) has always worked for me around perfect Nm [emoji23]
The ‘ping’ feeling of steel/steel bounce back is no different a feeling of popping a tapered joint apart of steering links. Two equal weight hammers perfectly struck in time colliding with one joint magically works [emoji106][emoji106]


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[MudRunnerTD]

In a rush as you are BZ Mate a baby sized cold chizel and lightweight self torque tapping hammer always works. I really should buy the tool one of these days too [emoji736][emoji106]


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^^^^^^^ What He Said ^^^^^^

A punch and hammer will get it done.

[mihit]

^^^^^^^ What He Said ^^^^^^

A punch and hammer will get it done.

^^^^^^^ What He Said ^^^^^^

I'd use a punch over a cold chisel, and you'll get a feel for how hard they need to be done up. (worst case you put the wheel back on and feel play you take it apart and do it again)

I also drive forward, never back-off, to the next locking screw tab/slot/hole.
Bearings can take a fuckton (metric) of preload before suffering damage, way more than you're going to put on it with hand tools.

Your idea of hacking up pipe is a fine one. BTDT too. try and get a radius on the pegs so's it's not squarepeg roundhole.

The actual locknut socket (41mm?) should be available from an engineering house, if you really feel the need for one.
If you do have the socket then the procedure is to tighten it until the bearing siezes (hub can't turn) then loosen it off completely, then tighten to whatever torque is specified in the manual, 20 ish foot pounds, IIRC.

[MB]

^^^^^^What They Said [emoji23]
Baby Cold Chisels/Punches with a slight say 10 degree woof/bend in them are even betterer in the bush and merely take up 0.00000001m3 of spares box space [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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[MB]

For waffling on clarity [emoji23]
Accidentally bent my 30+ year old bestest Crowbar some 10 years ago and never looked back [emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/08/87.jpg


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[Plasnart]

For waffling on clarity [emoji23]
Accidentally bent my 30+ year old bestest Crowbar some 10 years ago and never looked back [emoji106][emoji106]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2022/08/87.jpg


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And they say Bonsai landscaping is childs play....

[MB]

Focus, and try hard enough on Australian Rum and you too Plassy Mate could bend a spoon for mechanical purposes too [emoji123][emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]


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[BrazilianY60]

But bend it with psychic power alone, for more fun!

[MB]

GOLD BZ Mate [emoji23][emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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[BrazilianY60]

Job done! Thank you lads! Turned the locking nut just one click and the play was gone.

It surprises me that there is no gasket on the hub mating surface.

85874

[mihit]

It surprises me that there is no gasket on the hub mating surface.



There should be...

worst case knock one up out of beer box (cardboard usually found on dozens, not the corrugated boxes that 24s come in...)
PITA, but a hole-punch set (scissors if you're a masochist) will have em knocked out pretty quick.

[nipagu7]

my 2011 gu had no gasket there from new . i just put a thin wipe of wheel brg grease on the mating surfaces , that should stop or slow the progress the passage of water across the joint . i have had my hubs under water a few times and there was no signs of water ingress even without the grease when they were separated the first time . the parts hub housings are only alloy , be careful when handling that you don't ding the edges around the mating surfaces , it can cause them not to closley mate togeather again .

[MB]

Again ^^^what these Legends said [emoji106][emoji106]
Under duress in the bush old faithful Silasticy/gasket helpers can even out imperfections.
Word of warning, be sure to carefully apply a thin layer carefully around and not globs of it over the stud holes. Studs themselves won’t thread all the way home if a glob accidentally finds its way onto the studs end, aint much tolerance for compression at the end of that little hole [emoji23]


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[mihit]

the bonus with my method is that you have to empty a box of beer...

[BrazilianY60]

the bonus with my method is that you have to empty a box of beer...

I reckon your method should have come on the factory manual!