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GUtsy ute
21st April 2011, 09:16 PM
Hi,
Could somone please tell me the size(in amps) and brand of a suitable isolation switch I need for a 9000lb
winch.
All my searches so far come up with posts of people fitting them but no mention of capacity or make.

Thanks in advance if someone is able to assist.
Cheers

YNOT
21st April 2011, 09:27 PM
All you need to do is isolate the earth wire going to the controller connector. 10amp 2 pole switch like a spot light switch.

Explanation; Most winches operate through 4 solenoids, 2 for spooling in and 2 for spooling out. The solenoids are powered all the time and earth switched. All your winch controller (the switch you hold in your hand to operate the winch) does is complete the circuit by earthing 2 solenoids at a time. By isolating that earth the winch can not be operated.

Tony

the evil twin
21st April 2011, 10:18 PM
Is that what you mean Gutsy... or do you mean a Line Isolator in the positive feed cable from the Battery like the Tigerz?

Tony's method will work fine if you want to isolate the control circuits.

GUtsy ute
22nd April 2011, 12:59 PM
Is that what you mean Gutsy... or do you mean a Line Isolator in the positive feed cable from the Battery like the Tigerz?

Tony's method will work fine if you want to isolate the control circuits.


I thought all isolation switches were on the main feed cable.
Thanks for the replies people, will go the way Tony suggested.

MudRunnerTD
22nd April 2011, 01:11 PM
Yeah Evil i sent him a Picture from my build with some details of the circuit for switching the + Positive feed in the control circuit. All good i think now.

Here is the PM i sent him for the interest of others that may search for this answer here

Re: Winch Isolation switch


Hey Gav,

Thats an easy one mate.

The Winch Solenoid pack that you use is the main switch and is basically the relay so what you really need to do is isolate the switch to that!

Easy as

I have used a solid state winch solenoid pack like a Titan or TigerzII to run my winch but it really does not matter much. At the end of the day the low load circuit is the circuit to the hand controller which is also the circuit that yo are redesigning by installing an in-cab kit. So that is the circuit that you need to isolate.

Basically you just need to isolate and control the switching circuit and only have to switch the positive supply to that. Dont worry about the winch itself, that is what the solenoid does. Without the power to the solenoid the winch will not work.

So see the pic below and you will note the "Main Power" circuit to the back of the switches... Well that basically goes from the battery to the back of an ARB Style Locker switch then from there to the back of these switches as a "live Power" when switched. Remember these switches are switching a really big relay (the solenoid). Note that it continues from there... Well then it goes to power the LED light that is switched with the main power.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20gauges%20and%20stuff/IMG_0407-1.jpg?t=1280305491

Really Really basic when you get your head around it. Dont over think it mate.

Hope that helps mate,

If you need anything further dont hesitate mate. Glad you like my build.

Cheers Darren

GUtsy ute
22nd April 2011, 01:54 PM
Thanks again MudRunnerTD,
Great explanation and the pic says it all too!

Cheers

the evil twin
22nd April 2011, 03:29 PM
I thought all isolation switches were on the main feed cable.
Thanks for the replies people, will go the way Tony suggested.

Yep, much better/easier in most applications as you only deal with low current.

The Tigerz method works great as well and isolates all power plus is an "out of the box" solution with no extra wiring, switches etc. (which is why the Manuf do it that way) as the Isolator is in the 12 Volt feed.

Not the preferably way to do it for aftermarket tho IMHO... Muddy and Tony are on the money with just isolating the control relays