portable rear mount winch

[outback]

I am swapping my 9500lb winch out for 12000lb one so I decided to put into reality mounting the 9500lb one onto a portable pinch hitch mount.

A few queries:
1. What cable size from the battery to the winch?
I am inclined to look at normal battery cable for this, normally the bigger the less loss and less heat.

2. Connectors?
The best I can find is an Anderson 200 amp plug. Is there anything bigger amp wise or will this do?


Looking at eBay some places offer 2 gauge (SWG) wire for this and this is for runs up to about 7m.

I know I cant expect he full pull using this but at times around my property a rear winch is more useful that a front one.

[the evil twin]

2 gauge (as long as it isn't an overly long run) and traditional 175 amp Andersons will be fine.

I have my 12,000 Lb winch on a Reece Hitch Portable Carrier.
It usually lives on a dedicated Reece Reciever welded to the rear cross member under the tray on the rear of my Ute (along with my 2nd Cranker which stays there permanently).
My Front Bar has a Reece Reciever welded into it so the winch physically goes either front or rear

I have 2 B&S Cable x 1 Metre to a 175 Amp Anderson on the Winch
The winch then plugs almost direct to the rear Battery and into a 1/2 metre fly lead from the front Cranker Battery

SB 175 Amp Andersons are rated for 400 Amps for 30 seconds on 2 B&S (from the genuine Anderson Specifications)
You could use SB 350's if you want at 350 amp continuous or 600 amp for 30 seconds

It takes me about 2 to 3 minutes to swap the Carrier and winch from rear to front but obviously I cannot leave it in the front position other than for recovery/immediate use.

[outback]

Thanks ET.
All my batteries are in the engine bay so I will have to run 2 cables, (+ & -), to the back of the patrol. May have to consider an isolator for the +ve cable as well.

[the evil twin]

Just run one cable (+ve) and use the Chassis as Earth

Isolator is a reasonable idea, kinda depends on how you run/protect the cable.

Reason I say that is because joints, junctions and terminations are the mortal enemy of high current paths.
Even a 1/10th of an Ohm can start generating heat which increases resistance which generates more heat etc

[outback]

The isolator to me is just another nuisance. I am more inclined to bolt on the rear +ve when needed. I would prefer the -ve to be a cable vs chassis as earth.

At present the new winch is more of a head ache. The control box is all plastic and portrays to be mounted on the bullbar. the back plate has the solenoid and this is a thin bit of plastic.
In the process of re building the backing plate. It might be OK but like most things when you need it its broken.