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View Full Version : gq head bolt snapped. HELP please!!!!!



ute351
2nd April 2011, 09:20 PM
I was tightening the 23 head bolt on the 3rd sequence today when the bolt snapped. does any one know who to get the bolt out? thanks

the ferret
2nd April 2011, 09:27 PM
All ya can do is pull the rest of the bolts, remove the head, and if there is enough protruding, use a stud remover, other than that weld a nut onto it and while it's hot, try and unscrew it.
If you have to ezout it, use rocol on the drill bit as the bolt is hi-tensile, if you break the ezyout, you're rewted.

Tony might have some more ideas, he would have come across this problem before I'm sure.

XLR8
2nd April 2011, 09:33 PM
Depending on where the bolt broke will depend on best way to remove. If it has snapped at the bolt head, easiest way is remove the head and use vice grips on the shank. otherwise it will be a case of drill and Ezy-Out. If that doesn't get it you will have to drill the bolt out completely and use a recoil or similar thread insert. Either way I reckon the head will be coming off again.


PS When the head does come off again, I'd be replacing all the head bolts. It would appear some or all have reached their best before date

ute351
2nd April 2011, 10:11 PM
Thanks guys. the bolt snapped 1/2 inch through the thread. we are thinking it was a manufacturing fault as all the other bolts tightened no problem.

YNOT
2nd April 2011, 10:14 PM
Thanks guys. the bolt snapped 1/2 inch through the thread. we are thinking it was a manufacturing fault as all the other bolts tightened no problem.

If it snapped off in the thread area then it's most likely below the top of the block. The cylinder head will need to come off again. Do a google search for thread repairers in your area, they specialise in this sort of thing.

Tony

Finly Owner
2nd April 2011, 10:16 PM
My advice is DO NOT USE VICE-GRIPS, if you can avoid it. As most people don't get a tight enough grip. Go and buy a proper STUD REMOVER. These go over the shank and clamp onusing to turn of the ratchet. My one will grap as little as 5mm sticking up if I have the room to use it.

Tim

Finly Owner
2nd April 2011, 10:21 PM
Question, did you clean the threads out with a tap before reassembling? Most people don't and wouldn't think about the grains of rust and grit that fall into threads during disassembly. This then binds the bolts up when being tensioned and give false readings. It can also end up like your situation.

A lot of people will now tell me I'm full of crap, but, that's OK.

Tim

YNOT
2nd April 2011, 10:24 PM
You're not full of it Tim, it's a good idea, as is buying new head bolts intead of reusing old ones and lubricating the threads during reassembly.

Tony

Finly Owner
2nd April 2011, 10:29 PM
You're not full of it Tim, it's a good idea, as is buying new head bolts intead of reusing old ones and lubricating the threads during reassembly.

Tony
Never heard of buying new head bolts.( although I think you may have breifly mention at my place now I think of it)

ute351
3rd April 2011, 04:42 AM
Question, did you clean the threads out with a tap before reassembling? Most people don't and wouldn't think about the grains of rust and grit that fall into threads during disassembly. This then binds the bolts up when being tensioned and give false readings. It can also end up like your situation.

A lot of people will now tell me I'm full of crap, but, that's OK.


Tim

Yep, cleaned the threads and thoroughly dried the hole (to avoid 'hydrolock') and used the lube that came with the (brand new) bolts. The bolt wound in and out freely by hand so there was definitely no rubbish in there. Torqued first sequence according to specs included with bolts, all good; second sequence, all good. Third sequence all other bolts good except this one that snapped! Not impressed, everything is taking longer than usual as the car has been off the road since Wednesday first waiting for the gasket set to come in due to their computers down (or some excuse to that effect), then delays at the head shop getting the head machined and valves sorted, now this...

Finly Owner
3rd April 2011, 11:13 PM
Yep, cleaned the threads and thoroughly dried the hole (to avoid 'hydrolock') and used the lube that came with the (brand new) bolts. The bolt wound in and out freely by hand so there was definitely no rubbish in there. Torqued first sequence according to specs included with bolts, all good; second sequence, all good. Third sequence all other bolts good except this one that snapped! Not impressed, everything is taking longer than usual as the car has been off the road since Wednesday first waiting for the gasket set to come in due to their computers down (or some excuse to that effect), then delays at the head shop getting the head machined and valves sorted, now this...

Very frustrating when you've done everything right. Someone being bodgie would have no probs. LOL