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nickpeacock36
21st March 2011, 08:30 PM
I just had the intercooler replaced and now would like top block EGR and fit Dawes needle valve (think thats what its called). Where can i get the parts? i have asked a couple of mechanics and they haven't got a clue. Is it a DIY job or complicated?

YNOT
22nd March 2011, 12:41 AM
You can get the Dawes valve from 3bar racing, the valve shown in this link - http://www.3barracing.com/product_8.htm

I got my needle valve from Hydraulics direct, part number DV-06.

It is a DIY job if you are reasonably competant working on cars, check this link to Chaz's website.

You MUST have a boost guage before attempting these mods, and a pyro guage is a good idea as well.

Tony

nickpeacock36
22nd March 2011, 08:06 AM
You can get the Dawes valve from 3bar racing, the valve shown in this link - http://www.3barracing.com/product_8.htm

I got my needle valve from Hydraulics direct, part number DV-06.

It is a DIY job if you are reasonably competant working on cars, check this link to Chaz's website.

You MUST have a boost guage before attempting these mods, and a pyro guage is a good idea as well.

Tony
I cant see the link to Chaz's website. can you try again please Tony.

YNOT
22nd March 2011, 08:19 AM
I cant see the link to Chaz's website. can you try again please Tony.

It helps when you actually put the link in, sorry mate try this; http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/zd30_engine_problems.htm

Tony

nickpeacock36
22nd March 2011, 08:46 AM
It helps when you actually put the link in, sorry mate try this; http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/zd30_engine_problems.htm

Tony
Holy moley:jawdrop:. Thats way over my abilities, is there anywhere i can get this done or can anybody help me to set it up? I'm willing to pay cash/beer whatever works.

nickpeacock36
23rd March 2011, 07:42 PM
Just one last try to see if anyone can help me to set the valve system up. Is it possible to take the car to a mechanic to do? I know they wont block the EGR but the rest is legal isnt it?

Dhuck
23rd March 2011, 07:43 PM
You will have to make a date with Tony (YNOT)

nickpeacock36
23rd March 2011, 08:06 PM
Any chance Tony?

YNOT
23rd March 2011, 09:16 PM
Although I have fitted all that to my Patrol I'm not happy with how it controls the boost, no amount of adjusting has stopped the boost spiking on acceleration. I don't want to be responsible for setting up another car and it not being right.

Tony

BundyDave
23rd March 2011, 10:16 PM
Hi there I have just bought a series 4 GU and I'min the process of doing these mods. I'm still waiting for my gauges to arrive. Is it ok to fit a catch can before blocking the egr and fitting the gauges.

Dave

YNOT
23rd March 2011, 10:17 PM
Hi there I have just bought a series 4 GU and I'min the process of doing these mods. I'm still waiting for my gauges to arrive. Is it ok to fit a catch can before blocking the egr and fitting the gauges.

Dave

Yes.

Tony

nickpeacock36
24th March 2011, 07:39 AM
Although I have fitted all that to my Patrol I'm not happy with how it controls the boost, no amount of adjusting has stopped the boost spiking on acceleration. I don't want to be responsible for setting up another car and it not being right.

Tony
Fair enough mate. So they are pretty hard to set up then.I'll have to keep looking. What does yours spike at on acceleration Tony?

YNOT
24th March 2011, 08:30 AM
Maximum boost is set at 15-16psi but it spikes to 18-19 before settling back to where it should be. Adjusting the needle valve is supposed to stop that by controlling the rate of spool up but on mine it has no effect. Maybe Chaz could suggest what I need to do to fix it. If I can get it set right I would consider helping you set yours up.
Do you have a boost guage?

Tony

nickpeacock36
24th March 2011, 03:45 PM
Maximum boost is set at 15-16psi but it spikes to 18-19 before settling back to where it should be. Adjusting the needle valve is supposed to stop that by controlling the rate of spool up but on mine it has no effect. Maybe Chaz could suggest what I need to do to fix it. If I can get it set right I would consider helping you set yours up.
Do you have a boost guage?

TonyNot yet. I have just been pricing one up (with all the other work as well at AMMS in Sandgate) $1390 for pyro and boost guage, oil catch can, EGR blocked, dyno tuned, VNT adjustment (to stop turbo spikes)
Is it easy to DIY a boost guage?

YNOT
24th March 2011, 04:04 PM
The hardest part is welding/brazing a fitting into the pipe coming off the intercooler.
You need to work out where you want the guages fitted.

Tony

Chaz
26th March 2011, 07:57 AM
Maximum boost is set at 15-16psi but it spikes to 18-19 before settling back to where it should be. Adjusting the needle valve is supposed to stop that by controlling the rate of spool up but on mine it has no effect. Maybe Chaz could suggest what I need to do to fix it. If I can get it set right I would consider helping you set yours up.
Do you have a boost guage?

Tony

Hi Tony,

Is your car a manual?? It seems that quite a few are having the same issue as you. I’m not sure if it’s caused by the needle valve you’re using or maybe some Dawes valves have slightly different spring rates, but the spikes you’re describing sound like they’re caused by a fast spool rate.

In some cases you can reduce the spool up rate further by winding down the boost limiting screw slightly which will limit spooling and maximum boost.

My limiting screw has been turned down about ¾ of a turn, which gives me a smooth spoolup to 10psi with virtually no spike, even with the needle valve closed. It’s only when I switch to high boost that it spikes to about 16psi before settling to 15 and I can live with that.

Chaz

YNOT
26th March 2011, 08:16 AM
Hi Tony,

Is your car a manual?? It seems that quite a few are having the same issue as you. I’m not sure if it’s caused by the needle valve you’re using or maybe some Dawes valves have slightly different spring rates, but the spikes you’re describing sound like they’re caused by a fast spool rate.

In some cases you can reduce the spool up rate further by winding down the boost limiting screw slightly which will limit spooling and maximum boost.

My limiting screw has been turned down about ¾ of a turn, which gives me a smooth spoolup to 10psi with virtually no spike, even with the needle valve closed. It’s only when I switch to high boost that it spikes to about 16psi before settling to 15 and I can live with that.

Chaz

Thanks Chaz,

Mine is an auto and it spools REALLY quickly. I will probably have to wind the boost limiting screw down to fix it because the needle valve (hydraulics direct DV06 needle valve) has no affect on spool rate in my case.

Tony

Chaz
26th March 2011, 09:57 AM
Thanks Chaz,

Mine is an auto and it spools REALLY quickly. I will probably have to wind the boost limiting screw down to fix it because the needle valve (hydraulics direct DV06 needle valve) has no affect on spool rate in my case.

Tony

Tony,
It’s strange that the DV06 isn’t giving you any adjustment because quite a few are using them with success. Personally, I haven’t used one but would assume that any needle valve would do the job provided it was small enough to give precise adjustments. Have you tested the valve by opening and closing it while blowing through to make sure it’s working? Some valves are directional, but I don’t think that’s the case with the DV Flutec Valves.

Another thing to consider is the type of tubing that you’re using. For example, I’ve seen people use vacuum tube on their boost lines as well as their boost gauges. This isn’t a good option, particularly the silicon tube that comes with the Dawes kit. I would only use that tube on the air line from the needle valve to the air filter resonator. I’d use low pressure hydraulic return line for the pressure side of the Dawes valve, which is good for 500psi. The issue may be that softer tube can expand under pressure allowing the pressure to increase past the Dawes set point and when the Dawes valve finally opens, there is a sudden pressure drop as the tube contracts causing your boost to drop past the set point and then climb up again. Also it pays to keep the tubing as short as possible, particularly if it’s the soft flexible type.

YNOT
26th March 2011, 11:20 AM
I was careful about the tubing I used knowing it would be under pressure. I'm using EFI fuel hose.
I'll take my needle valve off and test it when I get time.
One thing I have noticed is that my Patrol does not have the green and white damper in the boost control circuit that a lot of ZD30's have. I tried to get one from Nissan but there was none listed for my VIN number.

Tony

Chaz
26th March 2011, 07:17 PM
I was careful about the tubing I used knowing it would be under pressure. I'm using EFI fuel hose.
I'll take my needle valve off and test it when I get time.
One thing I have noticed is that my Patrol does not have the green and white damper in the boost control circuit that a lot of ZD30's have. I tried to get one from Nissan but there was none listed for my VIN number.

Tony

Tony,
That’s interesting. I haven’t seen one yet without the green damper and assumed that they would all have it. Does your Patrol have the canister under the engine cover? This could be another reason why some spike and others don’t. Unfortunately, there are a few different configurations which could explain the inconsistencies.

Chaz

nickpeacock36
26th March 2011, 09:13 PM
I wouldnt mind a sticky beak to see how you fitted your boost guage at Woodford tomorrow, if thats ok Tony?

YNOT
27th March 2011, 12:27 AM
Not a problem mate.

Tony

Bagheera
20th August 2011, 11:21 PM
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I wanted to check if it was OK to install the EGR blanking plate and Dawes valve without the needle valve? Mine is a 2003 ZD30 with the 4speed auto. I'll be fitting a pyro and boost gauge at the same time, but I'm trying to keep the setup as minimal as possible.

YNOT
21st August 2011, 06:56 AM
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I wanted to check if it was OK to install the EGR blanking plate and Dawes valve without the needle valve? Mine is a 2003 ZD30 with the 4speed auto. I'll be fitting a pyro and boost gauge at the same time, but I'm trying to keep the setup as minimal as possible.

Only if you set up the dawes as a boost limiter to stop over boosting but leave the ECU and solenoid in control of boost. If you try to set the dawes as full manual boost control without a needle valve the turbo will spool up too fast and the boost will spike.

Tony

Bagheera
22nd August 2011, 09:50 AM
I'm not looking for manual boost control - I just know I need something to stop over-boost when fitting the EGR blank.

I'll give it a shot once I have the gauges and then keep a close eye on it. If it spikes consistently, then I'll have to grab the needle valve as well.

Chaz
27th August 2011, 01:10 AM
I'm not looking for manual boost control - I just know I need something to stop over-boost when fitting the EGR blank.

I'll give it a shot once I have the gauges and then keep a close eye on it. If it spikes consistently, then I'll have to grab the needle valve as well.
The problem with doing that is that after you block the EGR, your ECU will still lower boost to promote EGR as it doesn’t know that it’s blocked. When this happens, your EGT’s will rise very quickly, so it will pay to keep a close eye on the exhaust temps.