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Andyh
20th January 2015, 01:27 PM
Hey Fellas.

Just thought i would post up my diary on my GQ Engine conversion from a TB42 to a TD42t Intercooled.

TB42e to TD42 conversion – My Experience

I have 95 GQ Patrol RX TB42e on dual fuel, I love this ole bus but hate the motor, the LPG is temperamental, gutless and now the government duty on LPG has been increased its not even that cheap with LPG prices close to $1/Litre outside of Melbourne, if you can even get it. Because of the LPG the car cannot be set up right on petrol, in order to compensate the ignition timing for the LPG, everything is a compromise & I hate it, having to climb relatively mild hills in second or third gear, while being overtaken by everyone, losing speed as I climb and burning LPG like it’s on fire, oh and only being able to carry 70lts of petrol in the belly tank is a nightmare, every time I go 4wding, I need to know there’s a servo with LPG on route. I had been toying with the idea of ripping out the LPG and running straight petrol on dual tanks, but at the same time I’m thinking I would love to go all out and convert it to a Diesel for range and reliability……………

After chatting with a few people that have already done this conversion, I concluded that it could be an absolute money pit, but if you discipline yourself, do some research and look out for bargains over a longer period of time, you can do it all about 8k depending on the condition of motor you get, so I kind of started looking out for a TD42 and eventually found one for a price that I could not turn down.

From here the conversion idea was born, albeit a very slow process due to lack of funds due to building a new house, but a man’s got to have a project I guess, so anyway, here is a diary with some photos of my experiences and thoughts while doing a GQ TB42E to TD42NA -to TD42t conversion.

Day 1: Picked up my motor!  26th October 2014

I found a bargain 99, GU TD42 black top motor on eBay for only $1000, it was almost complete with only the power steering pump, water pump and exhaust manifold missing, So I checked the engine number in the local police station to make sure it wasn’t a stolen motor and after it came back all clear I decided to go for it. The downside, and there’s always a downside, was that the motor was located in Woodonga, and I live on the Mornington peninsula, so I hired a ute from thrifty and drove 31/2 hours from my joint to go pick it up then 4 hrs home all in one day on my own, and I was a little tired when I got back. Anyway I got the motor home and put it on an engine stand and begun to assess and figure out what I wanted out of this motor and what the rebuild project involved and what order I should start to do things.

I knew that I didn’t want massive KW’s but would want to turbo the motor, so I kind of decided that I would settle around 15psi of boost, pretty standard HT18 turbo specs thus not putting too much strain on the motor or my wallet. I also had been advised that the standard 11mm GU diesel injection pump, wound up a little, with no boost compensation should cope ok, it would be as far as it would go, but would be ok up to about 15psi, we’ll just wait n see I guess.

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Andyh
20th January 2015, 01:30 PM
Some Motor Research Info: What are the TD42/TD42t Differences?

1. Pistons & Gudgeons are different – TD42 28mm / TD42t 30mm
2. Oil Squirters are different (longer)
3. Oil Pump is different, Lager rotors that are recessed into the pump body for more flow, a TD42t pump will fit into TD42 for better Lubrication.
4. Crankshafts are different, the flywheel boss on TD42 is 86mm, TD42t is 96mm, balancer pulley is different but big end journals are exactly the same.
5. Precomps are bigger in TD42t, Same physical sizes but designed differently, but TD42t precomps will fit TD42 head.
6. Front and rear main seals are different, due to flywheel boss and crank pulley sizes


Working from some sound advice I was told that a standard rebuilt TD42 motor would handle 15psi boost with no internal modifications comfortably, however I decided that as this was a project motor and I had plenty of time on my hands plus I didn’t want to have a major motor failure in the middle of nowhere, so I decided the internals were going to be replaced to TD42t specs all except crank and Pre-coms, so in order to run 15psi + confidently, I would be making the following internal upgrades:

• 1x Engine Rebuild kit to Td42t specifications OEM spec Bearings
• Services of an Engine Block Re-sleeving, head Machining, specialist
• New Con-rods 30mm Gudgeons
• Teflon & Ceramic coated Pistons
• All new bearings (OEM)
• 6 upgraded Oil Squirters for TD42t
• New TD42t oil pump
• High flow water pump
• Heavy duty clutch kit

It started to dawn on me that in order to complete this shopping list I may have to sell one of my kidneys or possibly even my Liver to fund the project, and in order to find some of the harder rare spares that I needed, I would have to kidnap the prime ministers daughter or something…

However after careful consideration I decided that the selling of organs and kidnapping was not strictly legal and besides I may actually need my liver to process the copious amounts of alcohol that I would be drinking during the course of working on this project. So, if I was going to raise enough cash so I would have to save a bit, wait a bit, save a bit more, wait a bit more, get my bonus from work, and then if I don’t have quite enough, bend a credit card a bit…

After buying the motor and hiring the Ute to go get it + fuel and the rate/Kilometre for the hire, I was already in for $1400, so it was time to start a bit of saving again… In the mean time I would start researching for some hard to find stuff needed for the conversion like Diesel Tacho, Engine Loom, TD42 bell-housing, etc. etc.

happygu
20th January 2015, 01:38 PM
Great stuff so far Andy,

Wonder if you could pick up a donor vehicle minus engine on the cheap, and then use the required bits from that....

Mic

Andyh
20th January 2015, 01:43 PM
28th October 2014: G-Dam it, why do bargains always appear when ya wallet is empty, I Just found a TD42 Series II engine loom and standard fuel tank for a really great price… so had to buy them…..

Melbourne cup weekend 2014
Had a mates wedding on the Saturday of cup weekend, then I had plans to go away for 3 days over the break after the wedding, however I was very very hung over on Sunday morning and in no condition to drive so had to have a day on the couch to recover.

The following day (Monday) I decided to go outside and start to strip the head off the TD42 to see what kind of condition it was in, I knew the motor wasn’t seized but needed to satisfy my own curiosity. It didn’t take long to get the head off the main block and I was quite surprised at the internal liners, only 2 were lightly scored but would defiantly need to be replaced, but it was always my intention to replace all 6 anyway.

Due to the scoring I would say it seems likely the motor may have either heated up a bit too far or blown a piston ring / head gasket, so for the money it cost me for the motor with the intention of rebuilding it to turbo specification anyway, I was still thinking I had landed a bargain.

As the cylinders showed signs of scoring I thought I would take a close look at the head, the valves and the pre-combustion chambers for signs of heat damage and cracking, but I saw no signs at all. It was always my intention to have the head checked out and reco'd by an engine shop to see if its RS, anyway. It’s just a waiting game now, not much I can do until I get some coin together for the machining and rebuild kit.

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Andyh
20th January 2015, 01:46 PM
Tuesday 4th November
I had started to price some up rebuild kits and was a little dubious about the eBay ones that I saw for about 1400 bucks, so after doing some research got onto a mob called SMS Diesels, they are specialist dealers of OEM & copy kits. Requested a quote from them for a TD42t and it came back at $1195+gst for a copy kit, or $1495+gst for a OEM Japanese kit, I asked the question what make are the bearings in the Japanese kit, and they came back to me right away with the information, NDC or Daido which are the suppliers to genuine manufacture and are Japanese spec Bearings. Well it’s a no brainer in my book. The store is reasonably local and SMS Diesels have a great reputation with stores here and in Europe over an unknown eBay kit…..

A couple of mates know engine machine shop owners and have given me contact details to get prices, I may do that this week to get an idea on costs.

Today I also found a bargain of a clutch on eBay, it’s a used but in near new condition heavy duty gold tough clutch that go for around $750 new, I just sold a boat that I no longer own (house deposit) so will chuck a bid on it and see how it goes.. 2 days to go…. Winning so far.

Andyh
20th January 2015, 01:49 PM
6Th November
Dam…. I missed out on the clutch, someone else wanted it really badly by the looks of it and was prepared to buy at any cost.. lol…. EBay, it’s only a bargain if you don’t get outbid! Anyway I still have lots of time to look … early days.

My Mate picked up my 95ltr diesel tank from Bayswater today, it’s also got its original bash plate, and it’s in good condition no dents cracks or anything, just a little dirty.
I am stoked, for $50, you can’t go wrong, and now as the tank is sitting in my garage, it smells like diesel in there, so that’s even more motivation…
Anyway that’s another item crossed off the shopping list & Spoke with 2 engine machine shops waiting on estimated prices.

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Andyh
20th January 2015, 01:52 PM
14th November
No progress, still waiting on quotes from engine builders (I know I said no stress no rush, but sheesh) to top it all off, even my engine loom hasn’t turned up from NSW, & I’m beginning to wonder if it will… The guy I purchased it from through Gumtree is ignoring my sms’s and email message requesting postage details. A-Hole! If nothing turns up after I come home from work Monday 17th I will be reporting it to PayPal…

17th November
Well I eventually heard from the guy who sold me the loom, he was going to check with the courier as he said it had been sent last week, however when checking with the courier they said there were delays of up to 7 days due to the G20 summit or something. Anyway it’s defiantly been sent and I should get it any day.
In the mean time I started to pull off the Harmonic Balancer, the nut was as tight as a nun’s nasty and swinging off a breaker bar with ¾ drive and extension bar was just flexing the engine stand! It wasn’t moving at all, so I had a re-think & managed to scrounge a 240v rattle gun off a mate and with a little applied heat had it undone in like 3 seconds.  Just got to use the right tools I guess…

Anyway the harmonic balancer was on the crankshaft so dam tight that even when using a dedicated puller, the lip on one of the belt drive slots on the balancer cracked and broke off …
So in the end to get it off I just heated up the balancer taper lock collar again with a butane torch and tapped the end of the nut to loosen it then applied more force using the puller and it eventually popped off but it was really on there. In the in between time a mate with a TD42 just upgraded his radiator for a aluminium one, and I had asked him if I could buy his standard one … But, now had to text him and say since my balancer just cracked wouldn’t have the spare cash for the radiator.. Anyway he called me a #$@# for breaking it and told me he could maybe pick me one up off a dead engine for nothing if I wanted it. Sweet, if so I can now buy the radiator and replace the cracked balancer  winning.

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Andyh
20th January 2015, 01:53 PM
20th November
Well with every up, there must be a down I guess, its official the guy I purchased the TD42 engine harness off is an absolute waste of oxygen, I got a message from him last night after I sent him yet another message (a slightly stronger worded one this time) asking for postage details on the harness as it had still not arrived…his reply was “Hey man, I think I sent it to the wrong address”. So I asked him “what address did you send it to?”, and yep yet again, no reply. What a slack git, honestly how hard can it be to post an item to someone? Bloody redneck. Anyway, as I had paid via PayPal I have now started a claim process to get my cash back.

I guess it looks like I will be just adapting the TB42 harness after all… So Glad I used PayPal, and if you buy anything on Gumtree, always use PayPal, as I recon these useless hillbillies are all over gumtree ….

On a positive note I had a call from one engine machinist today, he has quoted me a pretty good price to machine the deck, fit new sleeves, hone, machine the flywheel, grind and balance the crank, test & Recon the head if needed, set valve / piston protrusions, the whole kit and caboodle for around $2900 inc GST. He also put me in touch with Engines Australia as as he thought he could get me a much better deal, he also explained that in his experence Engines Australia had amazingly good quality gear. I contacted Engines Australia, I asked for a quote and they said they can provide me with a complete kit for TD42N/A to TD42t rebuild including all new con rods, Ceramic Teflon coated pistons and all the gaskets and bearings I will need to rebuild the motor to high specifications. Engine kit was quoted at $2240 + GST, this is a bit more expensive than SMS but hey, these are engine internals and I don’t want parts failing on me, so considering its all OEM Japanese equipment the price is not too bad I thought considering what I get in the kit…

Andyh
20th January 2015, 01:57 PM
December 1st 2014.
Well on the 1st of December I finally got a PayPal refund on the wiring loom from Mr Redneck, so I spent some of it on a mates TD42 radiator and on Saturday I will go pick up.
My mate also regretfully informed me that the free harmonic balancer was not possible as the motor had been scrapped.

Ah well I had some cash from the refund now so purchased a used harmonic balancer I found on eBay for $65 delivered from Tasmania…. Not a bad price for a $250 part I thought.
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Andyh
20th January 2015, 02:00 PM
December 3rd 2014
Isn’t it funny that as soon as you put a project on hold, all sorts of rare opportunities expose themselves like a dirty ole man in an long rain coat..
Well since getting the motor, I had been sending out emails and enquires asking about GQ TD42 Series II instrument clusters and power steering pumps with mounting brackets and had nothing back but messages informing me that they would not separate as they wanted to sell with the motor or they are rare as and not available…

Well today out of the blue and after I had temporarily given up hope for a while, I got a message from local wrecker, saying they had both the Series II cluster and a Power Steering Pump with all mounting brackets, in stock, so bracing myself for anal violation on price, I asked. “How Much?” I was presently surprised to find it was only $350 for both parts with an additional $10 delivery fee to my office in the CBD.

Out came the credit card again, cos let’s face it when stuff this rare comes up, you just got to take full advantage of it, especially when the power steering pump comes with a mounting bracket and tensioner arm!, because that is rarer than rare.

They also told me that they may have a TD42 Series II engine loom available for $350, but I’m not really that worried about it now, after being let down last time I think I have convinced myself just to convert the TB loom and put in a manual glow circuit. I know of someone who has done this and said it was fairly easy, he sent me instructions on how to do it as well. If I change my mind I can always contact them later down the line I guess.

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Andyh
20th January 2015, 02:04 PM
December 6th 2014
Today I took a run down to a mates workshop and picked up my TD42 radiator he sold me after upgrading, he also still had his old bell housing form the TB42 and he mentioned that he thought that the only difference between the TD & TB was the third hole in the casting for the starter motor, but wasn’t sure, however if I wanted to take the bell housing away with me to have a look at and modify it myself if possible, I could have it for nothing.

Well I figured what the hell, I may as well offer it up to the sandwich plate on the TD42 and have a look. So I took it away and had a bit of a measure up, unfortunately the TB42 housing is a different size starter casting as the sandwich plate holes for the starter were way off as was the size of the hole in the housing for the starter motor. I will start looking around for one I guess.

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After finding a bell housing - here are the differences. TD42 is on the right obviously

Andyh
20th January 2015, 02:07 PM
7th December 2014
Today was a cleaning day….. I was bored at home so I cleaned all the red mud out of my TD42 radiator and cleaned up the standard Diesel tank and gave it a bit of a respray. I think from a rare spares point of view I’m now covered and good to start the rebuild as soon as possible.

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Andyh
20th January 2015, 02:09 PM
16th December 2014:
I have been having some thoughts on the motor and compliance with the VicRoads requirements, I have been trying to obtain information on whether I need to get a VASS engineers certificate for the GQ with a standard GU TD42t setup. It seems like madness to me that I need an emissions test on a factory motor setup that bolts directly into a car with no modifications structurally. Given that the police love an easy life and spend a lot of resources revenue raising by defecting GQ’s, I am keen to keep on the right side of the VicRoads regulations here, cos let’s face it, I would love to tell the copper to get stuffed and go check the mod plate on the car ! 
So information was conflicted and misleading, some says yes some say nah shell be right mate…. However the facts are: Firstly the GQ came with a TD42NA motor option, so that’s fine on its own, but as soon as a turbo is bolted on --- Your in da shit. Yes a safari turbo (which is a factory GQ turbo diesel) exists, but it was not released in Australia, hence no GQ turbo model was offered in Australia, and thus any GQ with a Turbo is not ADR compliant and needs VASS. So to clarify this and avoid any further conflicts of opinions I contacted a VASS engineer personally and here it is straight from the horse’s mouth…

“Hi Andy,
You most likely need a VASS certificate for this conversion. Vic Roads request one for this type of engine conversion and the change of fuel type. And a vehicle modification plate will have to be attached to it. If the turbo diesel will be fitted to your vehicle in the same configuration as it was originally fitted to GU, that is the engine, turbo charger, intake system, engine management system, then no emissions test would be required.
We will inspect the work done, do the noise test and document all the other changes (vacuum pump for the booster, booster itself and its compatibility with the foundation brakes, any additional warning lamps, like the low vacuum warning, conversion of the fuel system including fuel tank venting, any modifications to the electrical system that may have affected operation of the other systems etc.” Cost would be approx. $480 + GST”

So having confirmed this and at a cost of $480 + GST to have it legal, it’s a no brainer for me after the money I will be spending on the motor. I may as well build it to the spec I want, have it Engineered and then go to VicRoads with the ticket to get it mod plated, rather than mess about building it to TD42NA then going to VicRoads to get it inspected and the fuel type changed over then coming back bolting on my turbo setup and then running the gauntlet with the state revenue raisers, especially as I will be doing a fair few high county trips and the cops up there are notorious for being A-Holes towards 4wders.
I now have a clear idea of the motor that I am going to build, it will be pretty much a stock standard TD42 GU motor Intercooled & running a HT18 low mount turbo. VASS certified. If I can change out the engine harness to keep it stock I will, if not then I will adapt and move on.

Andyh
20th January 2015, 02:12 PM
18th December 2014.
I found a factory GU TD42 intercooler on gumtree for $200 ono, it was in Sale, but as I am heading to Maffra / Heyfield for new year, asked for some pictures and if we could arrange to meet for pick up near Maffra, I got some pics sent through and it looks good, the guy has accepted $150 and plus another result .. His dad lives in Maffra so it looks like that fell into place nicely.

So that’s pretty much it for 2014…. No more purchases or progress is intended for 2014 and nor will much occur in the first part of 2015 unless I find a real bargain, due to land title and house build so I need to stop spending dollars…….

Andyh
20th January 2015, 02:20 PM
January 11th 2015
As my land title has now officially been delayed until June 2015 and building won’t even start til about end of July / early August 2015 it looks like I will be building the motor before my house. So the project is back on. While I was away over New Year’s I stopped off in Maffra as planned and picked up my intercooler, this has now been put with all my other bits n bobs ready for the re-assembly process…

When I returned from holidays, I started to strip out the block, I spent a few hours pulling the motor down ready for cleaning and sending to the machine shop. I have now removed the sump, the front timing cover, removed the diesel injector pump, the vacuum pump, camshaft, cam followers, idler gear and the timing cover backing plate.
Next on the list will be to remove each big end bearing cap and then the crankshaft, retract each of the pistons still connected to the con rods and discard them as they will all be replaced with new pistons and connecting rods from the rebuild kit from Engines Australia.

So now the block has been stripped all the shell bearings were in great shape and the internals looked great, it seems like the motor is in much better condition than the previous owner thought. Next, both the cylinder head & block will then be 100% soaked in de-greaser and taken to my machinist with my camshaft, crankshaft, flywheel, harmonic balancer.
Hopefully all this can happen in the next 4 weeks, if I get the other half of my bonus that I am owed at work. If so we’re good to go, I can then order my rebuild kit knowing what size bearings I will need, the new con rods & Teflon and ceramic coated pistons will be ordered and delivered direct to the machine shop for balancing. Exciting times ahead.


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THESE ARE THE STANDARD TD42 OIL SQUIRTERS / JETS UNDER THE PISTONS, THE NEW ONES ARE LONGER AT THE ELBOW

Andyh
20th January 2015, 02:22 PM
Last update for now - 20th January

I have managed to sort out my finances and have booked my motor in for machining on the 21st February.
I will order the rebuild kit when I know what size bearings I need (Machinist to advise)

I will try to get the machinist to take some action shots for the archives :)

Will post another update as soon as something happens.

krbrooking
20th January 2015, 02:36 PM
Looking good man, thanks for all the posts. Good luck with it all.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Hardyards
20th January 2015, 02:43 PM
Nice write- up mate, very informative and entertaining. Wishing you nothing but good luck from here on.......

Rossco
20th January 2015, 07:39 PM
Reading your first post took me back. Did the conversion on mine a few years ago, for the same reasons, bloody unreliable, no range, power was good sometimes. . . but then frustratingly not others. I'm sure you'll be very happy with especially as it will be fresh as and legal. It is a pain with the tightening legalities these days, I have a reputable aftermarket safari kit but by the books could get stung. I ended up modifying the existing wiring with a manual glow, which works well, using a loom gives a nice finish but both work. Good luck and enjoy it, looks like fun.

Andyh
21st January 2015, 08:06 AM
Thanks Guys,

Yes i would be keen to change over the loom, but i am finding that a SII Loom is rarer than rocking horse poo..
If i can get one, and its in good condition, i really don't want electrical headaches i will change it over, however knowing my electrics are are 100% reliable, i will have no problem just adapting, as long as the vass engineer doesn't have a drama with it...

Been looking at Turbos, any feedback on the HT18 turbo? I have no idea how much power it will make, like i say im only looking for about 14psi with a 3" exhaust and intercooler setup?
I know that there are better turbos for sure, but bear in mind that i want to mod plate it, so it will have to be something like OEM on the GU. (What i upgrade to later down the track might be a new story all together :)

Cheers

Bloodyaussie
21st January 2015, 08:13 AM
I was lucky to score a sII loom and made my conversion more factory... everything is plug and play.

Good luck with all this mate.

Andyh
23rd January 2015, 02:43 PM
I happened to find a bit of a bargain last night, I jumped onto GQ owners forum on Facebook at just the right time.

Found an Exceedy Tough Clutch for a TD42 with hardly any use and a brand new Thrust bearing...

That's another item crossed off the list

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Andyh
30th January 2015, 02:48 PM
Guys, quick question.......

The HT18 turbo, is this any good?

I am building a stock standard 1999 GU TD42t motor, inter-cooled which i am dropping in my GQ and in order to get it mod plated i need the standard Nissan turbo set up.

Hence I am after your thoughts and experiences with HT18 or Safari Turbo set ups.

Thanks in advance

Andyh
3rd February 2015, 12:31 PM
I logged onto ebay to check the progress of my recent purchases of an oil catch can and a pillar pod for my EGT and Boost gauges and just got the bargain of a lifetime, eBay TD42t lift pump, $15 + $10 postage…. Boom --- Sold, that saves me over $200 at Patrol-a-part …

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MudRunnerTD
3rd February 2015, 01:01 PM
Guys, quick question.......

The HT18 turbo, is this any good?

I am building a stock standard 1999 GU TD42t motor, inter-cooled which i am dropping in my GQ and in order to get it mod plated i need the standard Nissan turbo set up.

Hence I am after your thoughts and experiences with HT18 or Safari Turbo set ups.

Thanks in advance

The HT18 is fine mate, no power house but a good place to stat and fair easy to get your hands on from guys buying bigger turbos. If its just for mod plating then fit what ever you can find. you should pick up a HT18 for very little. Good luck mate.

Andyh
8th February 2015, 07:34 PM
Went away for the weekend and when I come home had my catch can turn up sitting on the table waiting for me...

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Chappy
9th February 2015, 08:09 PM
Hey Andy, great write up so far.

I adapted my TB42e loom to suit the TD42t. It was super simple and I retained all my factory electrics. I'd recommend it.

Andyh
10th February 2015, 07:39 AM
GQJETT,

Yes thanks mate, i did read your thread on this and we communicated through the messaging on this site, it was you that convinced me to just run with the TB loom, so i think thats the way im heading to be honest. Just one question, what did you do with your ECU from the TB. Did you manage to just unplug it ? im guessing i wont be needed as there will be no TPS MAF EFI nothing ??

I may well hassle you for some advise if i get a bit stuck a bit nearer the time if that's ok, if you are near me in Skye, i can also supply beer if you would be willing to lend me a hand if i get super stuck ?:)

Bloodyaussie
10th February 2015, 07:58 AM
I am pretty sure you can be rid of the ecu and it is worth big money to sell... The only advantage I have is I have the clocks that have the water in fuel light and the glow plug light but I would not be bothered if I was to do it again and go the way Chappy did.

Chappy
10th February 2015, 08:07 PM
GQJETT,

Yes thanks mate, i did read your thread on this and we communicated through the messaging on this site, it was you that convinced me to just run with the TB loom, so i think thats the way im heading to be honest. Just one question, what did you do with your ECU from the TB. Did you manage to just unplug it ? im guessing i wont be needed as there will be no TPS MAF EFI nothing ??

I may well hassle you for some advise if i get a bit stuck a bit nearer the time if that's ok, if you are near me in Skye, i can also supply beer if you would be willing to lend me a hand if i get super stuck ?:)

Ahh yes silly me, I had forgotten that we spoke. I just left my ECU in, it doesn't bother me sitting there.

I'm from the northern suburbs but I'm down in Mt.Eliza/Frankston quite a bit so if needed I can swing by and lend a hand, it's a good excuse to see some mates down that way.

To be honest it's super super simple, I recently helped a mate with his and we had it running within an hour. If you like shoot me a PM and I'll give you my phone number so you can call if you have any dramas.

Andyh
11th February 2015, 12:58 PM
Thanks Guys,

GQJETT, PM SENT... Thanks that would be fantastic, nothing like a bit of assistance from someone who has been there first hand..

So am i correct in assuming (knowing what they say about assumptions) that all the EFI system such as the Injectors MAF TPS etc. that will be come garbage, all just unplugs at the ECU and can be removed from the main harness and disgarded ?
Thanks


Oh and my ZD30 airbox turned up yesterday too :) :)

Andyh
14th February 2015, 05:04 PM
My Daughters Boyfriend did me a massive custom spray job on my rocker train cover, he gave it to me today. I told him that I wanted something unique with the words INSANE and a picture of a Insane Troll on it...

:bananarock:

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Andyh
17th February 2015, 02:28 PM
I think i have decided to take a bit of a punt and maybe go for the TD05 16G 6cm turbo instead of the HT18 hi flowed thingo, I have been doing some research and the TD05 turbo was used in the standard DTS kit, its made by Mitsubishi, mine will be a kinuwaga type but still essentially a part with the Nissan part number stamped on it, hopefully this will get through VASS

So heres my point - Question, this type of turbo comes only with the V Band type exhaust flange, not the 6 bolts which i am familiar with, so what are the dump pipe options here (With Pyro) ? Any ideas please fellas ? Std 90 Deg mandrel bent 1.6mm wall steel exhaust pipe with vband welded on ??

Andyh
18th February 2015, 02:38 PM
Can this week go any slower, I knew this would happen i'm in such anticipation of the weekend as I finally get to put my motor into the shop to be machined and have all new liners and bearings fitted that this week is dragging by so slowly, I can’t imagine what the next coming weeks are going to be like.....

On another note I had been asking my daughter’s boyfriend if I could borrow his mates engine crane over the weekend so I can load my block into the car without re-hurting my back (I have a weak lower back problem that has plagued me for the last 20 years) anyway I was pleasantly surprised last night that when I got home I went out to the garage to measure up for my new work bench when to my astonishment a brand new engine crane was sitting in my garage.
My daughter and her boyfriend had brought me one as an early birthday present …. Wow, I am so happy, this is going to come in very handy over the coming months and it’s a tool that I have always wanted to get but never did…

Is it Saturday yet ?

macca
18th February 2015, 07:14 PM
Can this week go any slower, I knew this would happen i'm in such anticipation of the weekend as I finally get to put my motor into the shop to be machined and have all new liners and bearings fitted that this week is dragging by so slowly, I can’t imagine what the next coming weeks are going to be like.....

On another note I had been asking my daughter’s boyfriend if I could borrow his mates engine crane over the weekend so I can load my block into the car without re-hurting my back (I have a weak lower back problem that has plagued me for the last 20 years) anyway I was pleasantly surprised last night that when I got home I went out to the garage to measure up for my new work bench when to my astonishment a brand new engine crane was sitting in my garage.
My daughter and her boyfriend had brought me one as an early birthday present …. Wow, I am so happy, this is going to come in very handy over the coming months and it’s a tool that I have always wanted to get but never did…

Is it Saturday yet ?

Lucky you nice gift

Andyh
23rd February 2015, 08:22 AM
21st February - Now it really starts to happen :bananarock:

At last the day has arrived, I was up bright and early to deliver my motor to the machine shop, on Saturday.

I got home from work Friday night and loaded the engine block, Crankshaft, Camshaft, flywheel, Harmonic Balancer & Cylinder head into the back of the car and Saturday morning, drove it to the the engine machinist so he can work his magic. I asked the machinist if he would mind taking some photos of the work in progress for the diary and he told me he would be more than happy to do this as its something they do to keep their clients up to date with progress anyway. Stoked, so as things begin to happen, I will post them up.

Here is a list of things that will be done over the next 7 – 10 days hopefully.

x6.00 SET TO LINER JIG AND PRESS OUT SLEEVES
x6.00 REFIT NEW CYLINDER SLEEVES
x6.00 FINAL HONE FINISH LINERS
x6.00 FINISH BORE AND HONE PRESSED IN LINERS
x1.00 MACHINE DECK BLOCK FACE LINER PROTRUSIONS
x1.00 CRANK CHECK STRAIGHTNESS/GRIND,
x1.00 BALANCE CRANK/BOB CALCS/PISTONS/RODS/ PISTON RINGS/BEARINGS/FLYWHEEL/BALANCED
x1.00 FLYWHEEL MACHINE PRE BALANCE
x1.00 REMOVE CAM BEARINGS/REFIT NEW CAM BEARINGS
x1.00 FULL RECO CYLINDER HEAD

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Im just waiting on a phone call so i know what size bearings i need in my rebuild kit, i should get this call in the next 2 - 3 days, i will then run down to EA to grab my kit and drop off the pistons, liners and all the other bits the machinist needs.. The rest i will bring home for the rebuilding process.

Im now that excited that a little bit of wee nearly came out

Majestic
23rd February 2015, 10:28 AM
Great thread and write up mate. Very interested to see how this all comes out. Good luck with the rebuild and conversion sounds like a great project. :D

Andyh
23rd February 2015, 01:49 PM
Just heard from the engine machinist, he has told me what size bearings I need and I have just ordered my kit from Engines Australia. I am having the kit delivered direct to the machinist, however there are one or two parts in the kit that have to be ordered, (Finished liners & con rods) so unfortunately I have to wait til next Monday / Tuesday 2nd or 3rd of March for them to be shipped in order to be able to complete the kit.

The Machinist said he has already machined the flywheel and has started to grind the crank, he said it was in good condition.
The block is in the hot dip at the moment and once that’s complete he will start to press out the old liners. He needs my flywheel bolts too, doh, I didn’t think and didn’t put them in the parts I gave to him … I will have to drop them into him at some point next week.
He has some photos which he is going to email me, i will post them up as soon as i see them...

Bloodyaussie
23rd February 2015, 01:51 PM
Just heard from the engine machinist, he has told me what size bearings I need and I have just ordered my kit from Engines Australia. I am having the kit delivered direct to the machinist, however there are one or two parts in the kit that have to be ordered, (Finished liners & con rods) so unfortunately I have to wait til next Monday / Tuesday 2nd or 3rd of March for them to be shipped in order to be able to complete the kit.

The Machinist said he has already machined the flywheel and has started to grind the crank, he said it was in good condition.
The block is in the hot dip at the moment and once that’s complete he will start to press out the old liners. He needs my flywheel bolts too, doh, I didn’t think and didn’t put them in the parts I gave to him … I will have to drop them into him at some point next week.
He has some photos which he is going to email me, i will post them up as soon as i see them...

It will come together... its hard to be patient I know!!!!

Andyh
23rd February 2015, 02:25 PM
Here are some shots of the crank on the jig being measured up and some before and after shots of the flywheel ..

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Andyh
26th February 2015, 08:16 AM
So i had a day off yesterday, i happened to have a doctors appointment which kept me out of the office most of the day, however this was highly convenient as i had to drive right past Engines Australia, so i stopped off to pick up my rebuild kit (well 95% of it) i then drove past the engine machine shop and dropped it off to frank.

The kit was just missing the Finished Liners and con rods which will be supplied direct to Frank when they arrive later this week..

While there Frank told me that he had just finished looking at the cylinder head and was happy to report is was in great condition. All the valves were removed and looked perfect, and now i had supplied him all the new stem seals he told me that after a clean up, the valves would be re-seated with the new seals and the protrusions were being set today.

The block was about to be stripped of the welsh plugs and put in the hot dip, if the liners turn up today then the old ones will be pressed out and the new ones pressed in.. More photos of the machining to follow.

Here is a picture of what was left of the rebuild kit after i left the ceramic /Teflon coated pistons and the rod bearings etc with Frank..

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Dales300exc
26th February 2015, 09:36 AM
Are you using finished liners?

Andyh
26th February 2015, 11:08 AM
Semi finished yes, they will be honed etc to suit... EA just didn't have any of them left on the shelf.

Andyh
26th February 2015, 03:47 PM
Just having a bit of a thought, would there be any benefit to me running my existing TB42 in tank fuel pump in the diesel tank, thus pumping the fuel out of the tank and up to the lift pump / water filter thingo, or would this create too much pressure being an EFI system?

Should i just rip out the TB42 fuel pump and install the standard non-powered pickup & sender. Any thoughts ?

BigRAWesty
26th February 2015, 05:53 PM
Just having a bit of a thought, would there be any benefit to me running my existing TB42 in tank fuel pump in the diesel tank, thus pumping the fuel out of the tank and up to the lift pump / water filter thingo, or would this create too much pressure being an EFI system? Should i just rip out the TB42 fuel pump and install the standard non-powered pickup & sender. Any thoughts ?

I think I once asked this question and the answer was that there is no point.
But can't remember why lol..

Andyh
27th February 2015, 08:10 AM
Thanks, my pump is a new one, i may as well just rip is out and sell it.

Andyh
27th February 2015, 01:37 PM
Now having settled on my turbo set up, & while also planning for the worst case, I have decided on the dump pipe I need. I will be sticking with the Factory set up so if I need to change the turbo to suit a fussy VASS engineer, I can do so without having to change the dump too.

I scored a used 3" Denco Cast iron Dump pipe off gumtree for $150, this will fit both the turbo that I want and if worst comes to worst the HT18 turbo which I could pick up as cheap as chips in order to get through the VASS certification. Of course I would never put the other better turbo back on again afterwards, that would be so morally wrong of me.

55533

Dales300exc
27th February 2015, 06:13 PM
What turbo have you decided on? Ive never seen a 6 bolt td05 housing. Did you change your mind?

Andyh
2nd March 2015, 08:27 AM
I have decided on the Mamba TD05 16G 8CM (this is the same as the Kinugawa but has a billet turbine wheel as standard) this also has the standard 6 stud internal waste gate config.55608

Dales300exc
2nd March 2015, 09:57 AM
Well there ya go

Andyh
4th March 2015, 08:06 AM
Well it seems there has been a slight delay. My cylinder liners will arrive at the machine shop today but after re-sleeveing and honing of the block, work cant proceed any further at the moment i have no con rods... Engines Australia have just received the shipment of conrods in Brisbane, and its being sent to Melbourne this week, so they wont be processed of unpacked in EA Melbourne until Tuesday, but anyway its all good, not in any hurry and its a public holiday this weekend her in Vic, that also happens to fall on my birthday, so as of Friday this week, i'm off outta here for 4 days R&R in the bush to give my brain a re-boot.

Hopefully when i return i should be able to pick up my completed machined and balanced motor by the 14th March..

Dales300exc
4th March 2015, 09:55 AM
What rods? How many clams?

Andyh
4th March 2015, 11:04 AM
Dale,

The rods i am getting are part of the EA kit, they are the Nissan original TD42t rods, so the cost was all included in the kit itself, i'm not sure what they would charge to have them as a separate item.

Andyh
11th March 2015, 08:46 AM
Update time :

I had an update from the machine shop today, at last the conrods have been supplied, but unfortunately during the balancing process it was found that the weight difference between the rods was about 30 grams, this is way too much to balance them effectively, so EA are now going through 100 rods to get a suitable set in order for it to be perfectly matched, I should have a set of matched rods by tomorrow. In the meantime here are some more updates of the machining photos.

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Andyh
11th March 2015, 11:15 AM
Frank sent me through some more photos today, here are some shots of the cylinder head being given some love:
56076560775607856079

Andyh
11th March 2015, 11:23 AM
And then comes the phone call ...... Engine will be finished and ready for collection by this Saturday --------- Back soon i need the toilet i'm so excited ......:1087:

Andyh
12th March 2015, 01:43 PM
Ok so its official, my motor is now 100% finished at the machine shop, i have paid for it an everything... Just got to go collect it which will be this Saturday Morning.

So were back on - Let the rebuilding commence :)

56111

Majestic
12th March 2015, 02:31 PM
That's great news mate, best you're excited as. :D

Andyh
12th March 2015, 04:38 PM
That's great news mate, best you're excited as. :D

Words cannot describe how excited i am feeling right now....

Dales300exc
13th March 2015, 07:32 AM
So whens it go in

Andyh
13th March 2015, 08:46 AM
Well, I'm thinking if i start the rebuild this weekend, and with some other commitments to 4x4 Adventure TV show shoot, and other club functions that are happening between now and Anzac. i'm tipping about end of April / Start of May if all goes to plan.

KUDOS TIME - - - - HEADSPEC ENGINEERING (Clayton North Vic) Tel: 9561 8005
This guy is simply awesome, he has really looked after me on price and was kind enough to meet me after hours on a Saturday to allow me to drop off my motor to his workshop, then after chatting for about 15 minutes, he invites me in and gave me a full tour of his work shop, showing me all the equipment that would be used on my motor along with some of his custom work he’s done for race spec car engines and some really rare car owners restoration projects. Straight down the line honest as fella, if it don’t need doing, he won’t rip you off, I highly recommend him, and he even contacted Engines Australia and got me a good price on my rebuild kit. Honestly, I cannot recommend him enough, if you need any engine work, contact Frank Della Monica at Headspec (03) 9561 8005. He even keeps a photo log of his work that he is happy to send to you via email so you can see how everything is progressing.


58202

Dales300exc
13th March 2015, 08:32 PM
Look at you ya club junkie

Andyh
16th March 2015, 10:03 AM
Well I just had a massive weekend in the garage, I woke up early on Saturday morning to go and collect my motor from the machine shop, and then I had to go get my wheel rotation and a tire repair done so I never made it home till about 2.30pm. After walking the mutt and getting my tools ready I didn't start work on the motor till about 3pm. I unloaded it from the car and put it on the stand and contemplated the rebuild process.

I started by inserting the new longer oil Squirters in the bottom of the block, the old squirters are not as long as the turbo ones (Pictured). Having inserted all the oil jets I then pre-oiled all the main bearing caps and bearings with fresh diesel engine oil & inserted all the new main bearings into the top of the block ensuring all the oil feed holes were aligned.

After checking they were all seated and aligned correctly I unwrapped my crankshaft from the wrapping and gently laid it in place on the new bearings ensuring it was a good fit. I then pre-oiled all the main bearing caps and fitted the bearings into the caps and fitted the caps torquing them down to the required 177Nm, once all bolts were to spec I spun the crank in the bearings and it rolled around as smooth as silk…
Then I fitted a new rear main seal. I was then planning to fit my pistons but unfortunately just ran out of time.

56209 56210 56211 56212


On Sunday Morning I started working about 11am and was planning to have the pistons fitted along with the front timing gear. I started out by removing all my pre-balanced & assembled pistons and rods from the box, all I had to do was fit the rings and end bearings and fit them into the cylinder liner.
Starting at the front of the engine I put all the rings on the pistons making sure I had all the markings facing upwards and all the gaps were set 180 deg from each other corresponding to the position of the piston pin (Little end). I then sliced my thumb on the piston ring compressor.. grrrrrr. We have a bleeder.

Anyway after I plugged the cut with some engine assembly grease while lubrication the liners all was good and I started to fit the pistons to the new liners.

Each piston was inserted very carefully to avoid damage to the cylinder liner wall and the end cap bearings which I had installed and pre-oiled as before. I then rotated the engine to ensure that it moved freely and easily with no obvious signs of binding, all was good to I then proceeded to torque down the big end bearing caps.
I now had a block with a perfectly balanced crank and pistons fitted. (The cam shaft was already fitted by the machine shop after they installed my new camshaft bearings).

Next was the new oil pump fitment after also filling the recess with oil to aid with the initial pump priming, once the oil pump was fitted I went to fit the backing plate so I could fit the cam gear, however I realized I forgot to clean off the old gasket on the backing plate, so I started to clean up the old gasket only to find I was an absolute mongrel to get off (took me 2 hours to get it clean). Once I had the old gasket off I fitted the new gasket and the backing plate to the front of the block followed by the cam gear and the idler gear and then the fuel pump aligning all the timing marks correctly.

Time was now really getting on and 5pm I decided to fit the front cover, vacuum pump and temporally fit the sump (Mainly to keep the damp air off everything) and by 5.45pm I decided to call it a day.

56213 56214 56215

threedogs
16th March 2015, 03:14 PM
30 grms is a bit of difference on the rods noice of EA for going the extra mile to source matching rods.
Im re doing my catch can fittings ATM using AN8 fittings on one end and false AN looking hose clamps on the other end
with some braided line.
As for you fuel tank Mudski did an awesome job on his with some POR-15 and that stuff sells its self.
Builds coming along nicely I see, and yes you need the $$$$ when bargains are there, everyone here can tell a story of losing a bargain,
Going VASS seems the right thing to do saves a lot of tissues later on.
This is the first brand new buildd Ive read in a long time, most just slap a 2nd hand motor in and hope .

Forgot did you de-burr the inside of the block??

Andyh
16th March 2015, 04:16 PM
Forgot did you de-burr the inside of the block??

The entire block was machined and finished, so i assume so, there were certainly no sharp edges on anything i have seen (except my piston ring compressor)

Dales300exc
16th March 2015, 05:05 PM
Did you check the squirter alignment?

Andyh
17th March 2015, 07:55 AM
Not sure dale, can you explain for me... I located the squirters in the pins they sit in and they do not rotate once located ? the jets poit directly at the underside of the piston crown and my understanding is that the oil jet squirts under the piston to cool it down ... If there is something im missing its not to late as the bottom end is still easy to get into..
????

Cheers

56252

Dales300exc
17th March 2015, 12:24 PM
If you have fitted turbo pistons, there is a small hole the tip needs to point into. The oil goes through the crown on turbo ones, N/A ones it just points at the bottom of the crown.

I found mine didnt quite line up with the hole on install. Have to made small adjustments to the jet. Ie. Bend the jet.

Andyh
17th March 2015, 01:44 PM
Awesome that is great info Dale. yes i do have the turbo pistons same as yours... Thanks i will get onto it - what did you use to align them accurately ?

Dales300exc
17th March 2015, 03:11 PM
Just wind the engine over until the piston is at the lowest point. Then just gently maneuver until they are central.

Works case scenario on being misaligned is they bend or break and provide no cooling.

Andyh
17th March 2015, 04:31 PM
Thanks Dale, will do ...

Andyh
18th March 2015, 07:53 AM
Thanks to Dale,
I checked the squirter alignment last night, they were all good except for one in the middle (cylinder 3) was slightly off center to the hole in the piston, it would have been ok, but i aligned it a bit better.

Thanks again for the heads up Dale..

Andyh
23rd March 2015, 11:34 AM
A little more Progress This Sunday: Had a Head Job : ;)

Will get around to checking the Valve clearances this week..

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Andyh
26th March 2015, 09:42 AM
56537 Last night I picked up my high-flow water pump and thermostat from 4x4 adventure Club Sponsor, Adam, at ADM Motors (Nuts about 4WD) in Caulfield South, these are much better than the original pumps and also come with two gaskets (one thin and one thick) the reason being is that the water pump blades can sometimes catch the housing so if they do they say to use the thicker gasket so that the impeller doesn't foul on the housing.
A mate has been kind enough to lend me his special purpose tool so that I can correctly set up my VE pump timing advancing it to about 0.76mm, this is much easier to do out of the car than in, and before I attach all the injector lines & intake manifold.

I’m just keeping busy trying to get it back together, I think it’s going pretty well so far, next on my list will be the last of my big purchases, I need a manifold and turbo.. $$ ouch.

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Andyh
30th March 2015, 08:22 AM
Had another busy day in the garage over the weekend:
Timed up my Diesel pump (0.76mm @ TDC)
Got most of the motor re-assembled.
Just ordered my Turbo ... $$ Ouch.

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Andyh
7th April 2015, 02:50 PM
On Thursday 2nd April I went down to MTQ Engine Systems in Hammond Road Dandenong to pick up my new DTS low mount turbo exhaust manifold and it looks awesome. I will wait to bolt this on though as I should receive my turbo in a few days, so I will most likely put the turbo on the manifold first then bolt the entire assembly to the block.


56926

Pezzer
7th April 2015, 05:00 PM
Hi I am about to go through this I have an Auto TB42E will the flexi plate bolt up and with the 18g turbo is it best to source a GU 11mm pump......

Andyh
8th April 2015, 07:48 AM
I doubt it mate as the starter motor on the TD42 has 3 holes and they are in a different position to the TB42 i suspect the flexplate is a different size too, but not sure.
I changed Bellhousing but mine is a manual so has no flexplate with my TD42 motor.

18g Turbo = 11mm pump

im going to be running a TD05 16G 8mm and the 10mm pump is stretching the love a bit, but i should just get away with it.

Andyh
8th April 2015, 07:51 AM
Had some fruit arrive in the post yesterday.... :049:

56970

Pezzer
10th April 2015, 06:10 PM
Nice.......

Pezzer
10th April 2015, 08:44 PM
The special timing tool what does it look like and why 0.76mm @TDC

carsurgeons
11th April 2015, 01:49 PM
Hi, hows the conversion going? I'm just starting the same sort of project except i bought the whole car and am giing from tb42 manual on gas to turbo td42 automatic.
Is yours up and running yet or still going?
It sounds like it will be a good thing when it's all finished.
Like you i'm sick of spending more time at the petrol station than home.
:thumbup:

Andyh
15th April 2015, 08:41 AM
Hi Pezzer,

Its just a normal clock gauge but a special holding tool is needed to place it in the rear of the diesel pump... If you have a look at this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OI_iV4nlEq0&feature=youtu.be you will see what i mean.
0.76mm was used by me as the specifications were stated as 0.70mm @TDC for the standard NA system, as i am running a turbo i advanced this to 0.76mm to compensate for the extra air in the mixture being produced by the turbo, this was a guess at 0.76mm but i had been informed by others that this is the magic number that ppl are finding works well.

Cheers

Andyh
15th April 2015, 08:51 AM
Thanks for the interest Carsurgeons, not quite there yet mate but is certainly getting close to me ripping out the BBQ system and installing a proper motor.

Update time...

My first Setback...
Ok so having previously purchased my DTS manifold and having got my Turbo I have encountered a massive problem. The dump pipe on the turbo catches on the water pressure relief valve on the side of the block with will not allow me to fit the turbo and manifold… DAM ! ..



Ok so why won’t this fit …. The Turbo is not the issue as it has the same outlet as the standard HT18, and the turbo is a TD05 which is identical in size to the Garret, Mitsubishi and other brands… The difference has to be the manifold flange location / angle…

Having looked at my setup and that of a standard manifold my fears are realised, the DTS manifold sits the turbo 40mm further forward than that of the standard Manifold and thus when I put the dump pipe on the rear of the turbo the water pressure relief valve fouls the dump preventing it being fitted…

I contacted MTQ at Dandenong and they said to bring the entire setup down and they would have a look at it and see if I had any options regarding dump pipe spacers etc, but alas my manifold is not useable with this configuration dump pipe…. Now I have to return my DTS manifold for a refund and go with the standard Nissan Manifold or the original plan of a Radius Fabrications manifold.

I think I am going with the standard Manifold option and I don’t want to risk the same problems with a manifold from QLD, the DTS manifold wasn’t so much of a problem as I only live just down the road to MTQ so I could return it without any postage getting involved, but if the same happened with the RADFAB one I would have to arrange freight etc. and it’s a headache I don’t need..

I contacted Patrolapart in Lillydale and they can supply me a brand new Nissan Original T3 manifold for a good price but not until the end of the month as they have them on back order from Japan… Bugger !!

Bottom line is I am spewing I cant use the DTS manifold as it has an awesome reputation and would have been much more efficient than the Nissan one. But hey it is what it is so I will just suck it up and move on.

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carsurgeons
15th April 2015, 06:30 PM
hey mate great pics. Bugger about the manifold. Can't wait to hear it running.My conversion is just about to start,and i will use a lot of your useful information So thanks for all the info.

Andyh
16th April 2015, 09:19 AM
All good mate,

If you have any questions or if i can help feel free to drop me a PM and if i can help i will...
Having said that, my journey is not over yet.. lol i will breath a sigh of relief once its in running and passed VASS (Victorian Mod plate)

carsurgeons
18th April 2015, 06:45 PM
my mate just had a ford transit mod plated with a rb30 skyline motor and box and also a turbo , what a job , but that was in qld. i think it will need some brake upgrades. how is yours going?

Andyh
20th April 2015, 10:22 AM
Thanks mate.

Foundation brakes are the same on the TB42E and TD42T the booster pump is the only difference as the TD42T does not produce engine vacuum, hence it has a vac pump on the timing gear (Mine is the newer type that doesn't have the pump on the alternator).

The only thing i can think of is that i may need a larger Vac canister or an additional one to hold more volume but will see how i go..

Mine is stalled at the moment due to no time to work on it and having no exhaust manifold at the moment. But i have ordered a few more bits that should arrive in the next few days.

Alitis007
20th April 2015, 04:08 PM
Thanks for the interest Carsurgeons, not quite there yet mate but is certainly getting close to me ripping out the BBQ system and installing a proper motor. Update time... My first Setback... Ok so having previously purchased my DTS manifold and having got my Turbo I have encountered a massive problem. The dump pipe on the turbo catches on the water pressure relief valve on the side of the block with will not allow me to fit the turbo and manifold... DAM ! .. Ok so why won't this fit .... The Turbo is not the issue as it has the same outlet as the standard HT18, and the turbo is a TD05 which is identical in size to the Garret, Mitsubishi and other brands... The difference has to be the manifold flange location / angle... Having looked at my setup and that of a standard manifold my fears are realised, the DTS manifold sits the turbo 40mm further forward than that of the standard Manifold and thus when I put the dump pipe on the rear of the turbo the water pressure relief valve fouls the dump preventing it being fitted... I contacted MTQ at Dandenong and they said to bring the entire setup down and they would have a look at it and see if I had any options regarding dump pipe spacers etc, but alas my manifold is not useable with this configuration dump pipe.... Now I have to return my DTS manifold for a refund and go with the standard Nissan Manifold or the original plan of a Radius Fabrications manifold. I think I am going with the standard Manifold option and I don't want to risk the same problems with a manifold from QLD, the DTS manifold wasn't so much of a problem as I on live just down the road to MTQ so I could return it without any postage getting involved, but if the same happened with the RADFAB one I would have to arrange freight etc. and it's a headache I don't need.. I contacted Patrolapart in Lillydale and they can supply me a brand new Nissan Original T3 manifold for a good price but not until the end of the month as they have them on back order from Japan... Bugger !! Bottom line is I am spewing I cant use the DTS manifold as it has an awesome reputation and would have been much more efficient than the Nissan one. But hey it is what it is so I will just suck it up and move on. <img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57240"/> <img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57241"/>
Just a silly question mate but why is there a plate between the manifold and the turbo flange and also why not make your own dump pipe?? It'll be the easiest option i rekon.

Andyh
20th April 2015, 04:23 PM
The spacer is there to prevent the turbine housing coming into contact with the manifold outlet, as i am using a bigger than standard turbo housing.
The dump pipe i wanted to retain the original configuration so that if i cant pass VASS with my turbo i can swap it over for a crappy HT18 turbo to get my blue plate.

I could have fabricated a vband type turbo dump pipe and it would have fitted the DTS manifold no problem, i just decided to go a different way on the dump pipe.

Cheers

Andyh
22nd April 2015, 02:28 PM
Had a delivery at work today. My two hard fuel lines that run across the bulkhead and my fuel filler neck and cap turned up from NISS4X4. It’s getting so close to fitting date now I can start to feel a tingling in the ole sac:Yahoo!:, shame that the Manifold is the holdup though otherwise I think I would have had a 100% built motor by now.

I am doing a trip this weekend, so hopefully that will be the last time I fill up with that crappy LPG stuff, I will run it dry on the way home and just use petrol from there on in to get me home, then the following weekend I will rip all the gas system out.
I just really hope that the manifold from Patrolapart arrives as planned or I will be spewing, cos it will put me back no end.

Finally I also landed a bit of bargain on Gumtree, I found a bonnet scoop with insulator for my top mount intercooler for a mere $60, when I went to collect it, found it was in excellent condition. Another fine result!
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Dales300exc
23rd April 2015, 10:09 PM
Its because you are using that dirty cast dump pipe. Yuck. Shoulda just run the gauntlet.

Andyh
24th April 2015, 07:58 AM
mmm, thats the standard one mate.. the 3" one does look a heap better, but like i say i stand by my decision to go with the standard dump just in case i do have to change it over, im hoping not, but hey......
Just a minor setback really.. Ya live n learn hey :)

Last trip this weekend then i start to pull out the BBQ fuel and prepare for engine removal... excited much ???? Farrrrkkkkkkk Yeah ... lol

Andyh
4th May 2015, 11:23 AM
Update time, been a bit slack on the diary up keep as I have had the mother of all colds. I was off sick from work all last week due to a serious chest infection that laid me up for days following a 4wd trip to the haunted stream, the trip was awesome with all the crossings producing water on the bonnet so it was so worth it…
Anyway back to it, after I had recovered from my epic illness I absolutely smashed out the progress with the help of two good friends that came to my assistance. Deano and Stuart both kindly gave up there Saturday arvo to come and help me rip the motor out of the truck..
I started early Saturday morning by removing the LPG tank and all the feed lines from the filler neck to the tank and from the tank to the converter, this was relatively easy to do on my own with the aid of a trolley jack to take the weight of the LPG tank while it was lowered, I instantly gained about 5mm of lift clearance to.

I then removed the filler neck and replaced it with a diesel one (This is due to the larger filler nozzle folks so don’t forget to do this or you will be Sorley disappointed when you rock up to the servo !).

I now had to trace the wires back from the electrical side of the LPG and this is not my strong point, so I left this to Stuart as he is more qualified to look at this than me, while i was waiting for Stu I decided to start to ID tag all of the engine bay electrical connections & pull out the battery and the air intake system.
It’s amazing once you actually get into it how quickly the motor gets stripped out, before I knew it Stuart was here and the LPG electric system was completely removed, we then both concentrated on getting the motor bolt on items stripped off in order to remove the motor from the truck.

After a fair bit or work we had the motor to the point of almost being ready to hoist out, the only thing that I needed to do now was to unbolt the engine mounts and the bell housing mounts, by now it was already 4pm & Stuart had to depart for a few hours to book in a job with a client, so I just continued to plod along bit by bit, approximately 30 mins after Stuart left Deano arrived to lend a hand and his timing could not have been better, it was with Dean’s help and perseverance that the top two bolts in the engine / bell housing were finally removed and the TB motor was free to be lifted out of the car..

With the motor now removed it was time to call it a day (8PM) and, Stuart returned around to survey the damage and we spent the rest of the evening pondering the next stage… The following day I headed out again and ripped out the belly tank and charcoal canister mounting bracket, I then changed over the bell housing for the diesel one and re fitted the clutch fork assembly..


That’s It Motor Is out and now im preparing to drop in the Diesel, the only thing I need to do first is to change my power steering lines over to suit the diesel as the pump is on a different side. I am also still waiting delivery of my Turbo Manifold from Patrolapart, hopefully I should get this part this week cos if I don’t its going to really hold me up, because for the moment it’s a fully complete Flintstone’s conversion..

More to follow – Watch this space

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katwoman
4th May 2015, 11:25 AM
Will you clean and paint engine bay while it's empty ?

Andyh
4th May 2015, 11:28 AM
lol, i would like to say yes, but in reality .... no cos it will get smothered in crap after my first real drive anyway.... lol

Rossco
4th May 2015, 01:53 PM
Ooh nice 1!! Starting to come together now, won't be long before it's back on the road. . .

Andyh
4th May 2015, 02:06 PM
Hopefully not mate, just got to iron out where the temperature sender wires are and how to hook it up, Im also thinking i might have to change my Oil pressure sender over from the TB to the TD as i don't think the TD has the gauge, it has no vac line on the sender, so i just have to figure out where the vac line goes as mine fell off the TB when i disconnected the plug and i have no idea where it goes at this point. lol

threedogs
4th May 2015, 02:14 PM
lol, i would like to say yes, but in reality .... no cos it will get smothered in crap after my first real drive anyway.... lol

A good gernie should clean it up a bit while the motor is out

Andyh
6th May 2015, 11:42 AM
Woop Woop.

Looks like my power steering lines have arrived at work today so i can get on with swapping these over now.
Next stop will be pick up the manifold bolt on the turbo, plumb in all the lines and fit the TD in to the trol

I'm going to be busy this weekend

fracster
6th May 2015, 01:04 PM
I like reading these threads, some of you guys are pretty damned good at this sort of stuff.

Andyh
6th May 2015, 01:21 PM
Either that or were all just incredibly lucky.... :smileyvault-cute-bi

Andyh
7th May 2015, 11:27 AM
Ok so now its getting close i thought i had better get some Boost and Pyro gauges sorted out...

I have seen some gauges I like, I think I am going to go with the EVO led type, they look quite good, time will tell i guess.

Am i correct in assuming that a good EGT should not go over about 400 ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfvDBA1DBI0

Andyh
11th May 2015, 08:36 AM
Time for another update.

I have just had an epic weekend in the shed with the poo-troll, I started with a trip to patrol-a-apart on Saturday morning to pick up my TD42t exhaust manifold, while I was there I also picked up a new fuel tank sender and a 2 gauge pillar pod, unfortunately I didn’t get a lot else done on the Saturday due to other things that I needed to do, but I did get around to fitting the turbo and manifold to the block and then clocking and aligning the turbo body to suit.

Finally I managed to get into it on Sunday for a full on day with the help of my daughter’s boyfriend I finally managed to get the flywheel & clutch fitted onto the Diesel motor, but again this was not without a few dramas of its own, firstly I am so glad that I checked the clutch plate on the gearbox spindle because yep, I had been given the wrong size clutch plate. There is no way in hell this clutch would have allowed me to refit the motor to the gearbox, so I am so glad I checked it first… Anyway, I had a backup plan which luckily worked out ok, the clutch out of the TB42 is the same as the TD and the TB Clutch looked like a brand spanker anyway so that was it, I removed the TB clutch and fitted it to the TD. If the clutch fails later down the track, it will be going into the shop to be replaced, cos I’m not going through that again!

Ok so clutch now aligned and fitted ok, it was time for the Diesel to be dropped in the gaping hole in the front of the troll… LOL and here we were engine hoisted on the lift as far as it would go and it still didn’t clear the front slam panel, so after I let the tyres down it just snuck over the front and was ready to be lowered into position. The motor was lowered into the hole and with a little bit of messing around we finally got it in the right position to be pushed up to the gearbox.

Here’s where the fun really started, it was an absolute pig to get the engine on the clutch spline, my previous experience of changing clutches out had taught me these things either go really well first time or they are a royal pain in the arse, and it looked like mine was going to be a pain in the arse. It was a little difficult to get the motor and transmission aligned to the point of a jiggle and push would see the two parts mate up, but alas no matter what I did it wouldn’t go on.

About 10 mins into the game Deano popped over to lend a hand and eventually after about 40 mins we finally had the motor on the gearbox. The main problem I had here was I must have been so engrossed in the fitting of the motor I forgot to put the gearbox in gear.. lol so every time I jiggled the motor to try to get the spline to align, the spindle on the box just spun.. lol Doh !

From here on in we had to get the motor back on the engine mounts, here was my next mistake, I used the GU mounts (TD mounts and the TB rubbers) lol I mixed them up during the removal by mistake so needless to say this want going to work, It’s a good Job that Scuba Stu turned up to lend a hand also as he was the one who lead me to think wrong mounts!! … Oh dear, oh well up with the engine and box to clear the mounts and replace the mounts with the 4 hole rubber not the two!! .. Hahahaha, its amazing how well it all fitted with the correct mounts…

Ah well that concluded my day, the sooty is sitting in place and is bolted in to the gearbox and engine mounts, All I have to do now is start to fit the bolt-ons such as starter, air intake, fuel lines, filters, etc etc. I then with Scuba’s help I need to do the electrical stuff.
Hopefully next weekend I may be in a position to crank it over and hopefully hear my investment in time and $$ over the last 6 months come to life…

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Scuba was so pleased it went in he got a little excited and pashed my motor.
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Bloodyaussie
11th May 2015, 12:03 PM
Good stuff mate that is a big step forward.... keep em comin !!!!!

Rossco
11th May 2015, 04:19 PM
Nice one, that motor looks pretty sexy all clean and shiny :) . . . Won't be long now. . .

Chappy
11th May 2015, 08:54 PM
Awesome work! What a feeling of relief it is to have it sitting in place. Are you local to the Northern suburbs? You can use mine as a guide to wire things up. I don't mind swinging by & lending a hand if need be.

Andyh
12th May 2015, 08:04 AM
Awesome work! What a feeling of relief it is to have it sitting in place. Are you local to the Northern suburbs? You can use mine as a guide to wire things up. I don't mind swinging by & lending a hand if need be.

Hi mate thanks for the offer and a second pair of eyes is always welcome, however i am actually in the SE Burbs (Skye) and not the northern Burbs.. I think i have got to nail down this electrickry this weekend and do have one or two good people that can help out, however if your in the area give me a buzz and i can drop you my address.

Here is a curly question for anyone...... Can anyone advise what size bolts the Starter Motor needs, i saved the 2 from the TB Motor and just got another one the same but the bloody TD bolts are slightly bigger and i have no idea what thread they are in order to buy some new ones from a hardware store. I called Nissan this morning any they cant help me, they advised contacting a wrecker, so i did that and they cant help me either (I suspect they have the bolts but just cant be bothered to go get them and post them) I have an awesome bolt / hardware store just up the road from my home, but i need to know what size.... I have been told its Maybe M14 X1.25 but this is not 100%

I am also after a place that might be able to get the engine harness connectors i have a couple of broken ones that i want to replace and again Nissan are about as helpful as a sharp kick in the dick...
..... Anyone ... Please..... ?? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Bloodyaussie
12th May 2015, 08:18 AM
Not sure if Mudski sells that sort of thing?? probably not as they would not be a big selling item.

Not 100% sure but I think the thread for the starter is a fine one as I remember being under the car for 700 years undoing the bolts??

I'll ask on one of the face ache groups.

Andyh
12th May 2015, 08:27 AM
Thanks BA.... I know i can get bolts no drama, i just need the spec... lol

threedogs
12th May 2015, 08:33 AM
Hi mate it probably wont be 14mm x 1.25 but
rather 14mm x 1.50 which is basically a spark plug thread
If you still have the OE hook on the front of the chassis try one of those bolts
I've never heard of 14mm x 1.25 being used on a patrol

Andyh
12th May 2015, 09:11 AM
Thanks threedogs, i will give that a go... If they fit then i can go take the bolt to my bolt joint and get some..

Andyh
12th May 2015, 11:12 AM
ok , so i have the info i need, for anyone interested...

TD42 Starter motor bolt size is - - - 12mm x 1.75mm pitch and 35 mm long ( from under the head )
Information courtesy of ATOC Auto Repairs 13 Temple Rd Belgrave South, 3160, Victoria, Australia

Andyh
13th May 2015, 07:47 AM
Just a heads up people, The thread size quoted above is not correct, the bolts are indeed 12mm threads but the pitch is not 1.75mm i have no idea what pitch it is so i am just going to go to the bolt store on saturday and buy every version of a 12mm bolt there is sooner or later one will fit... :D

Anyway i was out in the garage again last night and got a fair bit done, no photos though sorry......

Picked up my 100amp Relay for the Manual glow circuit.
Fitted the air conditioning pump (Now needs to be re-gassed)
Fitted the fuel lines that run across the bulkhead
Fitted the fuel filter /lift pump
Fitted the fan assembly and Radiator
Drank 4 beers while working :D

More to follow as i will be back out there again tonight...

Bloodyaussie
13th May 2015, 08:12 AM
I ended up putting my primer on the drivers side where it goes on the GU and there are even the threads there for it to bolt straight up as long as you have the GU bracket.. saves a bit of priming time as less distance to travel.

GQjett says he has a couple of bolts for the starter at his place but he is also in the North.... he is not sure of the thread but maybe get him to take some pics of the bolts.

I'll text him.

Andyh
13th May 2015, 08:23 AM
Thanks BA, i have sent him an SMS..

Bloodyaussie
13th May 2015, 06:07 PM
Has chappy got back to you yet?

As for the charcoal canister i removed all the fittings and lines under the bonnet but left the one that goes the length of the car.

Andyh
14th May 2015, 09:05 AM
Yep, we had a bit of a chat yesterday via SMS, the bolt size is still not clear as the spare ones could not be located, GQjett kindly offered to remove one of his and measure it for me but i said thanks but no, i couldn't ask him to do that..

I did however get a small result from Nissan in Dandenong, the parts guy was helpful, unlike Franga, and although he could not tell me the size of the bolt (apparently its not identified on the microfiche) he could give me the part number and ordered me 5 (MOQ). They are at the store now but i cant get there til Saturday due to being locked in a box in the city.

On my way i am also going to get a couple of smaller pitch threaded 12mm bolts from the hardware store, just in case, i figure for the cost of the bolts, they may always be handy to have in the bolts box.

I headed back out there last night but as it was so cold i just lost all motivation and didn't get a great deal done to be honest, I fitted the radiator hoses and shroud, started to look at the airbox mods, drilled the holes to mount it, but i need a connector hose between the safari snorkel and the back of the airbox so couldn't bolt that in. I need fuel line and a few sundries to complete some of the bits i have to do, like pluming in the fuel lines to the pump, I need intake and intercooler hoses, hose clamps, I now know i need a new throttle cable as the LPG one is too long internally, unless there is another adjuster i haven't seen yet.

I think the cold blast got to me last night because it all got a bit difficult after an hour or two. Maybe i will find some more motivation today, but i am totally restricted what i can do because i cant get to any shops that sell the parts i need til the weekend... We may not see soot this weekend after all, i still have so much to do....

Bloodyaussie
14th May 2015, 10:37 AM
I suffer from the cold to mate..... as for the throttle cable yes they are different and you cannot use your old one.

Sounds like you are chipping away and as long as you get a little done most days then you are moving forward.

Rossco
14th May 2015, 12:02 PM
I remember when i did mine, there were some cooold nights in the shed in the middle of winter. But you may as well enjoy it, no point battling away for the sake of it, it's done when is done i reckon . . . . Sounds like its pretty close now :)

Andyh
15th May 2015, 07:47 AM
Agreed Rossco,
I went out last night put my fuel tank sender in and had a tidy up as i had tools everywhere.. Thats about it, I took some photos of the harness connectors as i need to go to jaycar today to see if i can get some mating parts. I did order some of JayDee Auto Cables in Bayswater that looked as though they were correct from the online catalog, but alas they were the wrong ones and as they didn't supply any pins or bungs for the plugs they did send me, which was really useful, so i cant even use the plugs supplied.

Ah well its Friday today so at least i can get a full day at it tomorrow, and with the assistance for a mate i hope to see some smoke, but im not going to hold my breath.. Still heaps to do.

Here is where i am at:

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Andyh
15th May 2015, 12:53 PM
Unfortunately Jacar were no good, they have nothing n the way of automotive connectors, Narva and Autobahn are my last hope...

I need the male connector for the fuel cut solinoid, the fuel filter warning light, fuel tank sender (two pin) Glow plug lead connector and the tacho.... Any ideas where i can get these guys ?

Dales300exc
15th May 2015, 02:49 PM
You are overthinking it. Just cut them off and put some water proof plugs on anything you want a plug on.

You wont find the plugs unless you find a loom.

Andyh
15th May 2015, 03:32 PM
Yeah i guess your right dale, i was just kind of hoping to keep the factory plugs, but end of the day it doesn't really matter...

Dales300exc
15th May 2015, 03:46 PM
If it was a full factory conversion yeh. But its not. Dont stress. Theres some nice waterproof plugs out there.

Bloodyaussie
15th May 2015, 04:35 PM
I have an engine loom for a td42 but they are rare things and will be selling it soon.

carsurgeons
17th May 2015, 08:34 AM
hey mate sounds like your going along ok there is a place called cooldrive, they have all sorts of connectors in there catalog and have branches all over aus. Also starter bolts are m12x1.75 x 35 under head length. sorry for the late info have been to busy to get near computer .wish i could have given info sooner.hope it all goes well.

Andyh
19th May 2015, 08:57 AM
Again I had a fairly large weekend in the garage going through some of the wiring with the help of two very fine chaps, both Frank and Stuart were absolute life savers for me here, I know nothing about electrics only how to short things out and start fires, so I was kind of dependent on some additional knowledge here. I also managed, with the help of Frank get the starter motor fitted at last, I still could not find any bolts that fitted the thread, It may well be down to the holes being ever so slightly misaligned on the sandwich plate preventing the bolt going in, anyway, to overcome this we elected to use a bolt 1 size smaller with a nut being applied on the opposite end, the top one was a ball ache to get tight but we did it and the starter is now going nowhere.
The following has now all been done:

• Extended the Alternator wiring and plugged it in.
• Connected the starter motor
• Changed the Rev counter clock to the diesel one
• Wired up my Water in Diesel warning light
• Wired up the Rev counter and diesel pump fuel cut solenoid.
• Put in the glow circuit wires for the momentary switch
• Installed the Glow plug relay and hardwired the glow plugs.
• Installed my airbox
• Installed the exhaust down pipe
• Filled up with Oil & Water & Installed secondary battery tray
• Started to install my intake piping
• Cranked the engine over off the starter & it worked!

What’s left to do?

• Complete the Intake, intercooler and turbo plumbing
• Put in the fuel tank
• Connect the main fuel line to the lift pump plumbing
• Put diesel in the fuel tank and test the fuel gauge
• Install momentary switch into the dash & test the glow circuit
• Prime pump and bleed the fuel injection system
• Put one finger in one ear and with the other hand turn the key and see if it starts.

Chappy
19th May 2015, 07:19 PM
How did you go with the fuel tank?

Andyh
19th May 2015, 10:24 PM
Fuel tank is fitted. Had to remove the rear tow bar.. lol but its in now and tow bar refitted.
Haven't tested the gauge yet. Will get 20ltrs of diesel tomorrow and bleed the system.
Need some more turbo hoses and connectors i thunk autobahn is the best place .. any ideas..

Andyh
20th May 2015, 08:29 AM
Took a picture last night after i finished putting the fuel tank in.

I will go to the servo tonight and get some diesel and start to bleed my fuel lines out. I also need to finish my plumbing in of the intercooler and wire up my Glow plug switch, once this is done it will / should start up. I'm hoping to fire it up Friday evening if i can get all my hoses and joiners for the intercooler. I can make up a bracket for the intercooler over the weekend and then cut a hole in the bonnet and fit the top mount bonnet scoop and get an exhaust sorted out.

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lucus30
20th May 2015, 09:13 AM
Took a picture last night after i finished putting the fuel tank in.

I will go to the servo tonight and get some diesel and start to bleed my fuel lines out. I also need to finish my plumbing in of the intercooler and wire up my Glow plug switch, once this is done it will / should start up. I'm hoping to fire it up Friday evening if i can get all my hoses and joiners for the intercooler. I can make up a bracket for the intercooler over the weekend and then cut a hole in the bonnet and fit the top mount bonnet scoop and get an exhaust sorted out.

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Getting to the pointy end. Take a video for us when you first fire it up I'd love to see it. Very exciting for you

Andyh
20th May 2015, 09:51 AM
Will def post up a small clip of it starting / or not as the case may be ! lol

Andyh
22nd May 2015, 09:03 AM
With the fuel tank now fitted with the help of Dean, and 20 liters of Diesel in my Jerry can, I now found out I need a new fuel filler connection hose… These little things are really starting annoying me, I need to go to Lilydale to patrolapart to go get a new hose, it seems the filler neck is 45mm OD and the tank aperture is 38mm, my old hose is only 35mm at both ends…

After calling Patroloapart, i find out I now have a GU setup… (Yes there are 2 different fuel tank hole sizes, and 2 filler neck sizes on the GQ & GU tanks and necks, they are both slightly different, for no apparent reason than to be annoying as hell. It all these little differences that are driving me mad, because working in the city with FA access to auto stores I only get 1 day per weekend to go shopping for parts I need.

I got some stuff done however, I did manage to wire up the momentary switch and test the circuit for my glow plugs which all works ok, I also tested the water in diesel light circuit and as a bonus that works too, it even also throws the check engine light on when my new water filter warning lights up.

I couldn't check the fuel gauge as I can’t get any diesel into the tank so that still sits on / below empty as the tank is dry, I can’t test the tacho as my air intake stuff hasn’t arrived and I can’t get diesel in the tank to bleed the system to start it….

I also managed to completely plumb in my cool air intake side from the airbox to the turbo using 3" silicone joiners and polished aluminum intake tube, looks pretty good i recon, hopfully i will receive the parts to plum in the hot side (post turbo) today, but if not im kinda stuffed...

I have arranged to go to Patrolapart on Saturday to pick up mt fuel filler hose that i need.

If i dont get my intake stuff today, i think all i can do over the weekend will be to fit my EGT & Boost gauges into the pillar pod, wire them up, and remove my back end of the old exhaust, put fuel in the tank and bleed the system, check and get working if i can my fuel gauge if its found to be not working.

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Andyh
25th May 2015, 02:12 PM
FIRE IN THE HOLE !@!!

Yep it fired up on Saturday, I have got heaps of updates to pass on so will update the thread when I get a few moments.....

jff45
25th May 2015, 03:23 PM
Did you happen to open your D1 Spec catch can? I bought one on Ebay and found it empty inside so no baffle or medium to condense the oil vapor.
I made a baffle for mine and put some curled alu strips inside it.
If it's empty, the vapor just passes straight through.

Bloodyaussie
25th May 2015, 03:30 PM
FIRE IN THE HOLE !@!!

Yep it fired up on Saturday, I have got heaps of updates to pass on so will update the thread when I get a few moments.....

Good stuff mate..... look forward to all the news..!!!!

Andyh
26th May 2015, 08:09 AM
Did you happen to open your D1 Spec catch can? I bought one on Ebay and found it empty inside so no baffle or medium to condense the oil vapor.
I made a baffle for mine and put some curled alu strips inside it.
If it's empty, the vapor just passes straight through.

Hi mate, thanks for the heads up, but yes i did look inside and it was empty as i would have expected for the price ! lol - I have manufactured a baffle also comprising of an extended inlet tube with holes drilled in the sides wrapped around a stainless steel scourer pad that you can buy in Coles for $1 :)...

jff45
26th May 2015, 08:22 AM
Hi mate, thanks for the heads up, but yes i did look inside and it was empty as i would have expected for the price ! lol - I have manufactured a baffle also comprising of an extended inlet tube with holes drilled in the sides wrapped around a stainless steel scourer pad that you can buy in Coles for $1 :)...

If you're interested, I put up a few pics of how I did mine in my TB45E turbo thread in the DIY section..

Andyh
26th May 2015, 08:36 AM
Ok so here is where i am at.....

Its alive, or was for about 5 mins.......

Over the weekend my intake stuff never arrived thanks to a slow as courier and as of today im still waiting ! so i had to fabricate an intercooler bypass so that i could at least get it started, so after checking levels for oil and water i disconnected the fuel cut soliniod and cranked it over to build oil pressure, unfortunately it then dawned on me after getting zero pressure that i hadn't put enough vass in the new oil pump and as such it wasn't lifting oil out of the sump via the pick up tube as it was supposed to.. It took me ages to get pressure and in fact i have to say if it wasn't for the advice of two very good mechanic mates i would till be there..

So what i had to do was..... Pressurize the crankcase while cranking the motor with an oil filter off with no fuel until i could see oil come out of the filter hole...But the trick was to try to get some oil into the pump cavity via the oil galleries so it would actually lift the oil out of the sump... So i removed my oil pressure sender and force fed oil down the hole the pressure sender came out of hoping it would run backwards into the pump... I then blocked off the PCV and with a length of hose blew with mouth pressure down the dipstick hole to pressurize the sump while i got my wife to crank the motor. I was lucky, i got pressure within about 4 cranks...

I then fitted my Boost And EGT Gauges in my pillar pod and fitted the pillar pod..

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I then got ready to crank it over and it fired up no problems after a bit of priming at the lift pump... To start with it had a bit of a loud rattle and a bit of a knock with a fair bit of white smoke so i was worried that my fuel pump or injectors may be RS but as the motor got the chance to warm up a little the white smoke stopped and the rattle was just a normal diesel rattle... so all good at this point.... Unfortunately my rev counter wasn't working, this maybe due to the fact i didn't have a pin to put in the plug in the back of the speedo so just looped and soldered the new wire hoping it would contact ok, it may have not been making contact anyway i will get this sorted out asap, other than that my alternator was charging, my temp sensor seemed to be working, fuel gauge works .


http://youtu.be/fZh2QNMvL7Q

During the warm up the motor was running great and purring like a angry cat, then just as i was about to get out and do a walk around, my wife comes into the garage and asked me should all that oil be down there and pointed to the floor in front under my truck....I initially thought i had spilled some while getting pressure to come up, but nope this was dripping from the front steering return to center dampener... f*&K .... My front mail harmonic balancer seal is spewing oil.. now this pisses me off as its a new seal.... So unfortunately i then had to pull out the radiator, and all the fan assembly to remove the harmonic balancer to get to the seal... Yep its stuffed, i don't know how or why but its stuffed, so yesterday i ordered a new genuine seal from Nissan and hopefully i will get that today and refit everything and go for a take 2 run on the motor...

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Oh and i also fitted these, bit premature maybe but i got excited after hearing it run...

Andyh
26th May 2015, 10:59 AM
Ok so i was just going back through my receipts and photos, i now know why the front seal was leaking...

Ok so i got a TD42NA to TD42t conversion kit from EA - this shows on my receipt a TD42 REAR MAIN SEAL & "FULL GASKET SET" When i looked at the gasket set (full gasket set) the photo clearly says TD42t ... The front harmonic balancer on a TD42t is larger in Dia than a std TD42 - and thus the seal that i got in my full gasket set is a different size front seal to that required... I didnt pick it up, till now.... Fark, what a twat....

Anyway this is a heads up for the next guy that does this conversion, your rear main seal is correct but if you get a full gasket set for a TD42t you will need a different front seal as the TD42 is smaller Dia.....

Andyh
26th May 2015, 03:09 PM
Anyone have a spare plug like this laying around or know where i can get one, I need to get a pin out so i can use it on my rev counter. .
The folded back soldered wire trick isn't working.

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Thanks

threedogs
26th May 2015, 04:50 PM
Jaycar sell connectors of every shape and form, was just looking today.
Maybe grab a catalog for the future, No spare cars hanging around

Andyh
27th May 2015, 07:50 AM
Unfortunately, i don't have a spare car or harness, and after going to Jaycar myself yesterday lunch time was not successful in finding anything remotely similar, but lucky for me a good mechanic fella that owns his own workshop and sponsors my 4wd club came on over yesterday to pick up my TB42E airbox i had put aside for him, anyway he saw my other post on this subject on FB & gave me a couple of pins he had in his workshop, looks like if i straighten them out they will go straight into the slot... :) so it looks like problem solved...

Also i refitted the correct size front harmonic balancer seal last night, surprisingly enough the crank case is now sealed up like a ducks bum :) I never got around to fitting the fan and radiator back on as i kept dropping the spring washer that goes on the fan hub nuts and after about 8 times of dropping it and re-finding it (Working in flood light garage) i had enough, so i will get back out there tonight and try to get it all back together.

Andyh
27th May 2015, 08:22 PM
Ok. Oil leak / harmonic balancer seal fixed.
Next

Problem 1
I seem to run out of suck.. lol may need another or bigger vacuum canister or i may need to investigate my vacuum pump.

Problem 2
I cannot get the rev counter working, this may be due to a poor contact behind the speedo, or a RS Sender or the Tacho clock i put in from a series II dash doesn't work...

Fun n games ...

Andyh
31st May 2015, 05:44 PM
Its almost done......Intercooler is in and fitted.

58441 58495

Vacuum problem sorted. Silly old pom put the check valve in backwards.

Just need to find someone to modify my bonnet so the scoop looks the part.
58496

Bloodyaussie
31st May 2015, 06:54 PM
Looking sexy mate.... until you get the bonnet done it is one big heat soak sitting on top of the engine.

Andyh
1st June 2015, 11:55 AM
Ok so I just took it for a really sneaky drive around the block at lunchtime... :driving2:
Its running ok, I didn't go to far as I have no intercooler hole cut yet and as BA said I don't want it getting too hot.

Things I have noted....

1 My rev counter works but only past 2500rpm, I suspect the sender is RS
2 I may put in another vac canister as a precaution but not sure at this stage
3 The motor seems a little down on power and I only made about 7psi boost so I may need to increase the soot a little via the smoke screw
4 It sounds frigging awesome with no mufflers and only a short stubby pipe fitted to the dump pipe.. lol
5 I really want to cut a hole and fill the bonnet groove so the top mount cooler can be fitted and looks awesome but need someone who is a panel beater or body work specialist to help me/ do a paid job cos this is cosmetic and in full view so I don't wanna f-it up

Then a bit of fine tuning, fit an exhaust then a visit to VASS & vic roads. Then Done.

BTW insurance - - Shannons were awesome, full off road cover anywhere in AU and fully comp with full modifications and agreed value...

Bloodyaussie
1st June 2015, 12:00 PM
Interested in what you are paying mate...Also be interested in how it all goes with the VASS.

Andyh
2nd June 2015, 08:12 AM
BA -Shannons quoted me $58 per month fully comp with all modification to motor and other mods like 33's winch bar, 2" lift etc.ect.
Full comp off road cover and glass cover, i also have one previous claim last year.

threedogs
2nd June 2015, 12:26 PM
I cut two holes in my bonnet for two GU scoops on my troopy.
not hard but you need to hold cutting tool tight or it will dance across the bonnet

slysailorjohn
2nd June 2015, 12:29 PM
I tried to go shannons but im under 25 hahaha! sucks so much as ive heard the best from them.

Andyh
2nd June 2015, 01:22 PM
Ahhh the pleasures of being an old fart slysailorjohn... lol

Yes Threedogs, i am planning to hold on to that grinder like my own doodle !! that's if i cant get anyone to do the mods for me, i contacted a couple of local body shops but both are booked out 6 weeks in advance, i cant wait that long, i will go doo lally:icon_bonk:

jff45
2nd June 2015, 03:08 PM
Andy, if you want to take a quick look at my TB45E turbo thread in DIY, you'll see the Navara style scoop I put in my bonnet.
I cut it with tinsnips to avoid the sparks spraying everything and painted it myself with rattle cans. I've since abandoned that project and have just bought an import TD42T. I'll be using the IC and cradle I made for the TB because it fits exactly under my scoop.

Andyh
3rd June 2015, 07:47 AM
Thanks John,

Whats the link to your build thread, I would be keen to see what you did.
I did do a search on threads but after about 10 minutes of searching and going through a lot of posts I kinda gave up.

jff45
3rd June 2015, 07:56 AM
Thanks John,

Whats the link to your build thread, I would be keen to see what you did.
I did do a search on threads but after about 10 minutes of searching and going through a lot of posts I kinda gave up.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28456-DIY-TB45E-turbo-install

If that doesn't work, just right click my name and choose to see threads I started..

Andyh
3rd June 2015, 03:46 PM
Been thinking about this bonnet recess and scoop issue, i may try to modify the rear mounting bracket on the intercooler just enough to move the intercooler over just far enough to fit the scoop next to the bonnet recess..
That'l make life easier... if there is room....

If i can get it over to the right by about 60mm / 80mm i recon i could be onto a solution.

I will have a look into it...

Dales300exc
4th June 2015, 07:23 AM
I have an air hacksaw if you have a compressor. No sparks. Clean cut. Easily controlled. Cut my snorkle hole and easily follow a line or shave 2mm off at a time.

Andyh
4th June 2015, 07:55 AM
I had a quick measure up last night and i think this will work, i can mod the rear bracket to move the intercooler over by about 80mm so that should be just enough to get away with a small 10mm offset but by the time the rubber sock sits around the cooler hole it wont even notice.

Thanks Dale, that would be awesome but unfortunately i don't own a compressor anymore..

OAK PATROL 88
4th June 2015, 10:47 AM
I am bloody loving this thread mate,
Makes me want to go nuts in a garage and build something.
without these threads it would end up just a pile of stripped parts on the floor, but with threads like yours and others I am now confident in carrying out some modifications.

keep up the great work mate.

Bloodyaussie
4th June 2015, 03:24 PM
I hope you plan on joining us on a trip at some point mate.... will be good to see.

Andyh
4th June 2015, 03:38 PM
Yes would like too mate, will have to sort something out at some stage, i will need to get it all run in and settled before i would put it through too much abuse.. lol

Andyh
9th June 2015, 08:17 AM
Queen’s Birthday Weekend 2015:
Even though the pooy wasn't ready I was away riding shotgun over most of the weekend with the club filming for a TV shoot at Wombat state park, but after leaving Wombat Sunday evening I still managed to complete the bonnet conversion.

I got into some work on the pooy on Monday, as per my thoughts I was able to move the intercooler over just enough to allow me to align the bonnet scoop up with the side of the recess. It meant I had to move the intercooler over a little more than I would have liked but the bonnet scoop was 100% visible the intercooler is not, so I lived with the lesser of the two evils…

After modifying the intercooler mounting brackets I then made up a template of the bonnet scoop and attached it to the bonnet in the correct position, then out came the grinder and the drill, boy was that a butt clenching moment making a big hole in the bonnet, anyway I had managed to get it right and soon had the scoop fitted and looking really good, I even managed to get the scoop smack bang in the centre of the intercooler radiator fins as per the plan. (Normally I’m not very good at this sort of thing) so I was quite pleased with myself, however it would have been easier with a plasma or oxy cutter I have to say.

So having completed the scoop modification and now having airflow over the intercooler I can take the car for another cheeky squirt around the block to see how its running, I had previously after the last drive wound in my fuel screw slightly as it seemed a little low on power, it was now a fair bit better but still only making about 10psi boost. As there was still no smoke I was about to head back home and tweak the screw a little more when the motor cuts out on me and I’m broken down on the side of the road. Confused and a little concerned I soon discovered that my fuel cut solenoid had been deprived of power since I had blown a fuse in the indicators (The live pick up I used for the fuel solenoid must be on the same circuit) anyway, I managed to get it going again and get it home to investigate the indicator fuse problem when I got side tracked and had to leave the garage for other things.

58723 58724 58725

So what’s next?
I have to solve my indicator problem this weekend (Rear left is not working) I then want to re-wire my light bar up because now having had one, I can’t live without it.
Then Next Monday I have it booked in to get a 3” custom exhaust made & fitted.
After that its just a little bit of light tuning and a VASS inspection for the mod plate, followed by a trip to Vic roads to get the legalities formalized. Then I’m done….

Andyh
10th June 2015, 07:57 AM
Indicator problem solved, it was a simple direct short.

When i changed the BBQ fuel tank to the Diesel tank i had to remove the rear tow bar so i could bolt in the the tank, i did this at night and must have trapped the left hand indicator live wire that feeds the trailer plug between the chassis and the tow frame, it pinched the wire and was shorting directly to the body... That would be the problem then... got rid of the offending wire, replaced 10 amp fuse and lit everything up like a Christmas tree last night with the fuse intact :)

All i need to do now is remove the complete Cluster f#$@ of a wiring job the previous owner did for the spot lights / Light bar and wire in a new switch and harness.
Exhaust Monday, Done :)
I will post up a clip of the grand Finality and a drive as soon as i am happy its all complete and running ok.

Bloodyaussie
10th June 2015, 08:21 AM
Very much look forward to it mate.... as will many.

Andyh
10th June 2015, 06:24 PM
Lol... just my luck...

I just replaced the front sender for the tacho as it wasnt reading below 2500rpm..
And now with the new sender its doing the same.. farrrrkkkk...
Looks like the tacho i brought is RS... 😢😢😢

Rossco
10th June 2015, 06:29 PM
That sux mate. . . GRRRRRRR !!!!

Bloodyaussie
10th June 2015, 06:30 PM
Lol... just my luck...

I just replaced the front sender for the tacho as it wasnt reading below 2500rpm..
And now with the new sender its doing the same.. farrrrkkkk...
Looks like the tacho i brought is RS... 😢😢😢

Ask mudnut if he knows anything about them....

Andyh
10th June 2015, 06:39 PM
Talking to the supplier now mate hopefully they come good and replace it

Bloodyaussie
10th June 2015, 06:52 PM
Talking to the supplier now mate hopefully they come good and replace it

Its a new tacho?????

Andyh
10th June 2015, 07:04 PM
No used mate. Wreckers special.

Andyh
12th June 2015, 01:40 PM
Well it would seem that the Instrument cluster I got back in December 2014 is faulty or just not suitable for my application as I could not get the rev counter to work under 2300 RPM’s.

I had been in contact with the wrecker who sold me the part and unfortunately (as i expected) it was way outside of any warranty and they could not offer much assistance regarding return, however they really looked after me on a replacement instrument cluster, so I am hoping that as this cluster is identical to my original cluster (Oil pressure gauge & Amps meter Type) I can slot it straight in and everything works, if not that means the speedo is wired differently and I will still need to swap out the tacho component, I will see how I go.

Andyh
16th June 2015, 07:33 AM
Ok so it looks like i have just hit a big problem... This has just my luck written all over it................

Had my exhaust fitted yesterday and that ended up costing me $100 more than i was quoted, anyway what can ya do, say nah mate, ... No choice, i had to pay it, then on the way home driving back my gearbox started to make some god awful noises when sitting at idle in neutral, if i depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor the noise disappears, so it looks as though i may have done an input shaft bearing, and if that's the case, its time for a Gearbox rebuild... I can't do this myself, its just too hard to get the box out laying on the ground and i just don't have the cash to get it fixed at the moment as i didn't budget for a frigging gearbox.

Of all the bag over the head punch in the guts a fella can get....

This thread may go very quite for a while now as i am about to go throw myself under a bus... lol

Bloodyaussie
16th June 2015, 07:43 AM
Mate gearboxes come up all the time on face ache if you want me to keep an eye out??

I have had 3 boxes in now with the last one being the best by far... the first started to make noises and vibrate in 5th plus terrible trying to get into gear.. the 2nd was much better but had some leaking issues.. the 3rd has been very good with the only thing being the syncro for reverse sometimes if I have not come to a complete stop it will grind but that is minor compared to previous issues.

I tell ya what though it is bloody hard trying to get a box out from under the car and I have found it easier to remove the engine.

Shout out if you get stuck mate.. I am sure we can muster up some help.

Andyh
16th June 2015, 08:35 AM
Thanks BA,

I have a mechanic thats a member of one of my 4wd clubs, and after speaking with him today he can take the box out for me and investigate....

I Just cant do it, i am physically and emotionally shattered, i cant face anymore time under the truck struggling.

If the box is stuffed im sure that he could sort me out a replacement, so i will prob take it in tomorrow on the way to work and at least once the box is out, i know what im looking at, after all It will take him 1/2 day to get the box out on the hoist, but it will take me 3 weeks laying on my back struggling on my own.

Apologies for the down tone of my post guys, i really wasn't expecting this and im feeling a bit destroyed today.

Bloodyaussie
16th June 2015, 08:54 AM
Mate I am not sure if you know what I went through but it was hell..... To me a gearbox is a huge pain in the arse but by far the end of the world.

I am sure right now you want to put your head in the sand but dont let it get you down... yes doing it on the hoist is easier but it still is a pain.

You'd be amazed how quick you can get a whole engine out once you have done the conversion.. much quicker than an efi.

I understand you wanting to have it done at a shop... this is a minor set back mate... you have done all the hard work and the gearbox is not hard in a technical way just bloody big and heavy.

I will still keep an eye out for another box.

Keep posting up mate even if it is just to vent as many on here understand your grief and can be great to have a calming word from those that are thinking clearly.

And yes yell out if you need a hand (there are a few on here who are always willing to help) even if its just to chew the fat and look at all my dodgy work...lol

Andyh
17th June 2015, 02:39 PM
I dropped off my truck with John Nichols, a fellow Nissan owners Club member at Cologne Motors this morning for open box surgery, I guess I should find out what the problem is in the next day or two, john said it don’t sound to serious though.. Im hoping it is something simple, it wasn’t making that bad of a noise this morning, until It warmed up anyway, then it got a little quiter again, all I know is that was screaming like a banchee in there yesterday.

On the Tacho issue, I still didn’t get any joy, the unit Niss4x4 sent was obviously faulty, the needle jumped around all over place, & that was without it even being plugged into the sender yet ! so I called them and said its cooked & pictured , is their answer to a free replacement Tacho unit… I doubt this one will work either, I mean look at it…. I'm not holding my breath… ..

58984

Bang Head I'm very disappointed, as they have been awesome upto now, If this don’t work, I will just have to take it to patrolapart to get it working and get shafted in the wallet again.. $$

C’mon Andy, think happy thoughts !!! lol … Ok …..I am still hoping to make my VASS and get vic roads sorted by 29th June….. Maybe….. only if my luck changes

Bloodyaussie
17th June 2015, 04:17 PM
While i was going through my build i kept thinking the worst at every turn and sometimes it was justified but many it was just me being stressed and down on myself..

You have done very well so far and personally i think your set backs are minor considering how big a job this is.

You might be surprised at that tacho..

Keep positive and maybe take on my motto for this year... onwards and upwards.

Bloodyaussie
22nd June 2015, 12:10 PM
Andy is there any updates mate??????

Andyh
23rd June 2015, 07:37 AM
Sorry i havent posted for a while, not really had much to report, but today i can say that the pooy is just fresh out of the workshop yesterday evening.... I can breath a sigh of relief...

It turned out to be a buggered Spigot bearing and broken / loose springs in the clutch plate, the gearbox is fine. Phewwwww ...

So i have now had an exceedy tough clutch fitted with new spigot bearing and thrust / throw out bearing... I should have just done this in the first place. Although the clutch seemed fine on inspection it was obviously about to die and maybe the alignment problems i had during the engine installation onto the gearbox finally killed it.. anyway.. Its done i got John (The mechanic) to do an oil change in the gearbox and the transfer case while it was on the hoist.

VASS is booked in for next Monday Lunchtime this should be my final hurdle, it should go through no problems the only grey area is the TD05 turbo, but its set at only 8psi at the moment (factory std) and the TD05 was an option for the DTS turbos fitted to patrols sooooooooo i am kinda hoping the engineer sees things my way ! :)

Bloodyaussie
23rd June 2015, 07:53 AM
Sorry i havent posted for a while, not really had much to report, but today i can say that the pooy is just fresh out of the workshop yesterday evening.... I can breath a sigh of relief...

It turned out to be a buggered Spigot bearing and broken / loose springs in the clutch plate, the gearbox is fine. Phewwwww ...

So i have now had an exceedy tough clutch fitted with new spigot bearing and thrust / throw out bearing... I should have just done this in the first place. Although the clutch seemed fine on inspection it was obviously about to die and maybe the alignment problems i had during the engine installation onto the gearbox finally killed it.. anyway.. Its done i got John (The mechanic) to do an oil change in the gearbox and the transfer case while it was on the hoist.

VASS is booked in for next Monday Lunchtime this should be my final hurdle, it should go through no problems the only grey area is the TD05 turbo, but its set at only 8psi at the moment (factory std) and the TD05 was an option for the DTS turbos fitted to patrols sooooooooo i am kinda hoping the engineer sees things my way ! :)

See........ happy days mate.. yes another expense but one that should have been part of the build.

My clutch was only new when I did my conversion so was not needed.

Glad its coming together... you'll be wheeling in no time!!!!

Andyh
24th June 2015, 08:18 AM
I finally got back outside last night to swap out the Tacho units again, and i still have a problem, the tacho will not read and jumps around all over the place without the engine running, so im starting to think there is something wrong with the wiring..

I am going to have to re-think this as i cannot have 3 faulty tachos.

1st tacho - Sits on zero and wont read any revs under 3000
2nd tacho - jumped around and spiked would not read (Engine Not Running)
3rd tacho - jumps around then settles around 1500 rpm (Engine Not running) Then with motor started reads increases in revs but only from 1500rpm, so idle speed is like 2500rpm

Out of interest i then put the petrol tacho back in, this sits on zero and reads with motor running, but only above 1200rpm, then reads normally, the needle then hits zero at idle..

LOL who would have thought two wires can cause so much pain.. lol

Bloodyaussie
24th June 2015, 08:27 AM
Sounds to me more like a faulty sender....... If I still had the other engine here I could have ripped it out for you.

See if you can at least loan one... some shops charge a re- stocking fee for using parts for testing?

I am not sure how to test the sender you have in there at the moment as that is for the electrical nuts??? maybe try messaging Yendor?

jff45
24th June 2015, 08:30 AM
What you're describing with the petrol tacho is what the TB45 conversions seem to experience when they connect the TD42 sensor to the petrol tacho. Nothing below 1000-1500 then shows normally.

Andyh
24th June 2015, 09:12 AM
I thought the same BA, so i did change the sender and had the same result, also thus eliminating the sender.

I have another idea, i may run the two wires up from the sender and connect them to crimped eyelets and secure the eyelets behind the relevant screws behind the tacho, thus bypassing the plug.
At the very least i t will eliminate any bad solder joints in the wire connections in the plug.. I will give it a crack.

59136

Yes the petrol tacho thing has thrown me a bit because i was under the impression it wouldn't work at all.. lol

I will solve it eventually... lol

Andyh
25th June 2015, 08:56 AM
I bypassed the plug last night, I attached the 2 eyelets to the wires and then fixed them directly to the PCB of the tacho where it screws into place.

This also didn’t work, on all three tachos i have. so I am at a total loss… I must just have 3 RS tachos, I will now go to Patrolapart for them to fit a working tacho, I am not prepared to spend any more time on it, i must have had the dash apart and the cluster out 30 times now, I will be really disappointed with Niss4x4 if they have supplied tachos that don’t work !

I will just run with the petrol tacho for now as that reads over 1100 rpms so at least that's something, better than nothing

garett
25th June 2015, 09:18 AM
correct me if i'm wrong but dosn't the td42 tacho pick up from the alternator ? and the petrol from the dizzy/computer? have you got the pick up from the right place ?
i had to replace the speedo and could only get a petrol cluster... so i tested it whole b4 i pulled it apart, tacho didn't move at all. but thats a petrol tacho in a diesel.

Andyh
25th June 2015, 10:06 AM
Hi Garret,
The EFI tacho it picks up signal from the ignition coil through the ECU, but i have bypassed all of that and run 2 new wires from the pick up point on the TD42 motor, then i changed the tacho gauge/ cluster to suit a diesel motor... The tachos work on the same principles i guess, but having wired it up correctly with the required equipment to tried and tested methods with no good result, i am now at the limit of my ability so i will have to put it in to patrolapart and see what the outcome is from there.

Andyh
25th June 2015, 03:54 PM
As a last ditch attempt to solve my tacho problems, does anyone on here know if the tacho from a series II GQ patrol 2.8 is the same as a TD42 Series II tacho, the two tachos i got supplied from the wreckers are out of 2.8's THIS IS MY LAST IDEA ! . LOL

Help... Please.. Anyone.. lol

Winnie
25th June 2015, 04:00 PM
Hey mate I can't help at all but just letting you know I have been reading this whole thread and following your little journey...
Stick with it mate, you are too far to throw it in now haha!

threedogs
25th June 2015, 04:18 PM
As a last ditch attempt to solve my tacho problems, does anyone on here know if the tacho from a series II GQ patrol 2.8 is the same as a TD42 Series II tacho, the two tachos i got supplied from the wreckers are out of 2.8's THIS IS MY LAST IDEA ! . LOL

Help... Please.. Anyone.. lol

Get onto Mudnut I think,He's the man to PM
Is there a resistor or anything that you solder in line to
help convert from 2.8 to 4.2 diesel?

mudnut
26th June 2015, 09:32 AM
Andy, further to the PMs I sent,
My computer screen is so stuffed
that I can't get clear pictures of
the TD42 wiring.
I have looked at the Haynes
Manual and on Page 12-18.
It is vague about identifying
which engine it is for.
It shows that the sender has
two wires to the gauge and a
third connection to earth in parallel
to the fuel, oil and temp gauges
via the circuit board.
When you tried the two straight
wires to the tacho, did you
disconnect the original
wires from the
plug to eliminate any fault.

Andyh
26th June 2015, 12:38 PM
Thanks for the above Mudnut,

Yes the original wires are no longer connected at the cluster plug / pcb.. (The EFI only had one original wire (Yellow & Black) in pin 12, this was removed as it went to the Coil where the original petrol pick up was located.
All other gauges in the cluster are working 100% which indicates that the live and earth parallels are ok.

Bloodyaussie
26th June 2015, 04:30 PM
Andy, further to the PMs I sent,
My computer screen is so stuffed
that I can't get clear pictures of
the TD42 wiring.
I have looked at the Haynes
Manual and on Page 12-18.
It is vague about identifying
which engine it is for.
It shows that the sender has
two wires to the gauge and a
third connection to earth in parallel
to the fuel, oil and temp gauges
via the circuit board.
When you tried the two straight
wires to the tacho, did you
disconnect the original
wires from the
plug to eliminate any fault.

I have an older laptop here that i was going to use in the garage only that you are welcome to Craig...

Andyh
30th June 2015, 08:00 AM
Ok so the project apart from a tune up is complete, I think….

I have kind of admitted defeat for the time being on a tacho but as the one I have fitted functions over 1100rpm I am just going to live with it for now until I can suss out what I am going to do, i did do some tests but had no help at all so i couldn't get a reading off the tacho wires (sorry Mudnut) but seeing as the tacho is working rev wise i assume the sender to be fine..

So here it is the good news……

I had the car engineered by VASS successfully, and thus pooy conversion was passed by the engineer and a modification plate fitted, so before anyone had a chance to change their minds, I then headed to VicRoads and handed a copy of the engineers report to the customer service people who then came out to observe the engine number in the car and the modification plate attached.

Result - My truck is now 100% legal 4.2 turbo intercooled diesel with 3” exhaust, bulbar, winch, light bar, roof rack, rear draws, 33’s and a 2” lift weighing in at 2550KG.

59306 59307

I am very happy and can now drive very confidently through any police checks with my head held high.

59308

Ok so next is some final tweaks, I have now fitted my T boost controller and my straight through 3” exhaust section (removing the center muffler) and will be giving it a dyno tune this weekend so I can ensure that the thing is running as well as it can be on a standard pump.

Bloodyaussie
30th June 2015, 08:03 AM
Brilliant stuff mate....... the hard part is over and now its just a bit of fettling to get the small things sorted, oh and of course the never ending maintenance ...lol

Winnie
30th June 2015, 08:35 AM
Woohoo! Congrats mate!

mudski
30th June 2015, 07:17 PM
Awesome stuff there mate. Who did the engineers for you mate? As for the tacho. The is a mob in ringwood who do speedo's etc etc . Cant remember who they are though. Might be worth ringing them and having a chat...
Edit : they are called Ringwood speedo service...
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

carsurgeons
2nd July 2015, 09:55 PM
hey it sounds like you have had your fair share of hassles . really excited to hear it is a goer. I just got my engine back from the engine machinist in pieces ,so the assembly begins. Good luck with the tacho, i'm sure you will suss it out .Are you happy with the performance. Please say yes i have to look forward to mine getting finished .

Andyh
6th July 2015, 07:40 AM
Ok, so i had my first trip up to the Nissan Club property this weekend, i was a little nervous driving it all that way for the first time, and being a new motor on a freeway i had to vary my speed and keep giving it full peddle to bed in the rings.

The truck ran great no problems at all apart from some fuel needed (I think my 10 mm pump is ok but at speed and full boost she struggles to put the fuel in.
I have had it tuned but they never hooked up my boost T so i think i will put that on and give the fuel screw just a little tickle and see if ia cant get the boost up to 18 psi and give it a little more diesel. if not i will have to live with it until i can afford a pump upgrade.
Having checked the oil and coolant level when i got there and then again when i got home, i found it wasn't leaking or using any oil or leaking any coolant at all..

Overall the truck sounds awesome and loves the low range torque.

I didn't get any pics or video as i was just doing a break in run. i will however put up a movie of it in action as soon as i can.

I will be fitting my turbo timer and boost t this weekend and doing my first oil change.

Andyh
14th July 2015, 07:10 AM
Ok so I've now had a couple of weeks for the dust settle.....

I have done about 1000ks in the truck since the conversion, still nothing in the way of 4wding, just running it in by a trip to the Nissan club property and then a gentle run up to Mt Matlock hoping to see some snow on Saturday...

Well although the truck motor is running really well the torque is amazing, it runs out of puff at 2800rpm and surges now and then, i have had this checked out by MTQ and it would appear that my pump is maxed out and on its last legs.
The pump was always a gamble as it was the only thing along with injectors i didnt rebuild / replace, it was always my intention to go bigger on the pump but this was intended to be after my house was built.

As my first real trip is in little over 10 days (off to Mt Skene) I will not have the confidence in the pump i have letting go (esp at altitude) so i have booked in to MTQ for a recon pump to be fitted next week, I am going 11mm boost compensated and hopefully looking for more power and torque at the rear wheels.

Anyway, as promised i will post up a short movie of the truck as soon as i am 100% happy with it, this will probably be some footage of it on my trip from Walhalla to Mt Useful across to Mt Skene in about 2 weeks.

In the meantime here at some last picys of the truck as it is atm..

Nissan club property 4th July 2015
59784


Mt Matlock (11th July 2015)
59783

Winnie
14th July 2015, 07:15 AM
Hey mate, what is the cost on the pump reco? If you don't mind me asking...

Andyh
14th July 2015, 08:11 AM
I was quoted 2.5k drive in drive out for the pump, its an exchange process, so they use the old pump core as a reco swap, thus taking about 1k off the total price of the 3.5k pump.....

Then it has to be fitted and re tuned on the dyno which is extra $$

Punderhead
23rd July 2015, 01:43 PM
Random question, tried searching, which clutch slave cylinder/pushrod did you use? I have in my head that they are different lenths.

Thanks!

Ben-e-boy
23rd July 2015, 04:24 PM
I was quoted 2.5k drive in drive out for the pump, its an exchange process, so they use the old pump core as a reco swap, thus taking about 1k off the total price of the 3.5k pump.....

Then it has to be fitted and re tuned on the dyno which is extra $$

That is expensive.. very expensive, have you shopped around?

Andyh
24th July 2015, 09:19 AM
I just used the TB42 (Petrol) one clutch is working fine and i changed nothing, only put a Heavy Duty clutch in, that is it.

Andyh
10th September 2015, 11:42 AM
Just thought id update the thread a bit..

I have now done about 2500k's on the diesel motor, everything is running great, i have now fitted an electronic fan controller on the radiator as the electronic fan was no longer connected as the diesel radiator has no sensor in it, i also fitted an additional 12v fan to keep things cool on them hot days ahead.

My 11mm pump is working good, im putting out about 540Nm torque and 115rwkw at 20psi boost and egts highest ive seen are 450 post turbo fully loaded putting my foot into it, im happy with that.. its nice an economical run as im getting around 650-700k per 95l tank.

Thinking i may well now add a fan to the intercooler just to try to cool the air a little more from the standard intercooler (even though it has been de-restricted)

Went up to Mt Skene Recently with the Nissan club and had a great time, so here is a link to the short movie i put together...

61226


www.youtube.com/watch?v=DspZPJ0YE5E

BigRAWesty
7th October 2015, 06:36 PM
Hey mate. Did you do the rear main seal during the conversion

Andyh
9th October 2015, 07:58 AM
Yes bud, had a full rebuild kit from Engines Australia and put a brand new one in .

61886

Andyh
13th October 2015, 02:14 PM
Thought i would put a little more air in the motor after my ZD30 airbox plastic nissan junk developed a small intake leak.
Patroldocta Airbox... heaps more air flow, I have noticed the turbo spools a fair bit quicker and EGT dropped about 60degs...

61924

Next on the upgrade list is a better top mount intercooler and eventually 4" snorkel.
But my land just titled so this will all be next year now...

Done about 4000k on the motor now and am very happy with the torque and economy of the diesel...

Bloodyaussie
13th October 2015, 02:21 PM
Good stuff Andy.... would be good to see it one day.

mudski
14th October 2015, 06:19 PM
Very nice mate. Something on my to do list is 4inch snorkel and air box upgrade. Great motors to drive hey...

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Andyh
10th November 2015, 02:28 PM
HPD Magic :)

That standard intercooler just wasnt up to the job... Very Restrictive...

New cooler fitted EGT dropped by 60 degs and engine runs a lot more responsively now...

62620

John43ls
29th January 2017, 03:18 PM
Great read and excellent perseverance. Regards, John S.

Figgy
3rd January 2019, 07:41 PM
Awesome build Andy, gives me some inspiration to td swap my dual fuel mav.