roof rack problems

[threedogs]

Hi all as some may know I just purchased a roof rack off SC1, standard type most use I think an ARB copy but thats not the point.
First problem I can see with the design is all the uprights that separate to top loop from the lower loop act as a cup an will collect water there
and rust. What have others done ,just left it ?
First thing Ive done is to drill two holes to allow all this water to escape, once I treat the rust and repaint it it should be OK.
for anyone with this style rack highly recommend you check for rust. either fill it up with silicone or drill some holes.
doesn't look like a light bar will fit across the front without fabricating some kind of bracket.
Cutting the top bar off the rear of the rack and welding in a roller on the lower loop to assist in loading long lengths of steel.
Shovel bracket presents no problem, awning bracket may take a bit more thought.
Very happy with the bar its very sturdy, final colour will be charcoal metallic.
Hopefully I'll have it ready for cod opening , but thats a big ask at this stage.
Totally agree with SC1 about fitting it using blankets on the roof, thats a challenge in itself lol

[threedogs]

So far after drilling the drain holes I've cut the rear top bar off and fitted rubber end caps to neaten it up.
Now I need to make some brackets to suit the roller I have.
I can see why they are heavy they have used
a heavy walled pipe in the construction

[04OFF]

Looks a exactly like a early Tigerz steel basket with the beacon light mounts front and rear (I never liked the look thus why I never bought one back then) now have a alloy one, ill go check the mounts out soon.

[threedogs]

still trying to figure what the plate at the front is for
Anyone have this style bar with a light bar fitted across the front?

[04OFF]

still trying to figure what the plate at the front is for
Anyone have this style bar with a light bar fitted across the front?

Personally id cut the front one off (if you are getting it powder coated grey), the rear one you could use as a reversing/work light, but id expect you would already have something set up already 3D ?

Those mounts are the reason I never bought one, I think the front one just looks quite a bit dickey, but I am a anal ass sometimes about such things, but meh :tease:

[04OFF]

Always thought you could maybe mount a light bar "underneath", the front of the rack, my mate has one on top, but its only short as it fits between the 2 uprights

[threedogs]

I see your point the rear is handy, I think I will cut off the front one,
will get ppl guessing as to who's bar it is.
setting up the light bar mount will be a pain, I have most other
mods in my head done, also going to weld a flag mount to it.
thats easy as in my books,
might even cut the two front up rights off and weld in something different
they make things difficult as they are

[macca]

Plate looks like a flashing / rotating light base???
Is light bar too long to go below front top pipework? Stops low trees having heavy impact.

[04OFF]

I think aesthetically the 2 front uprights may need to stay, although, id have never thought about what you did removing that bit at the rear and that looks really good, so yeh, what ever you do post some pics, just keep in mind strength of the rack with regard to load shift under emergency braking, but im sure you would have that covered/thought of with your particular background anyway.

[04OFF]

Plate looks like a flashing / rotating light base???
Is light bar too long to go below front top pipework? Stops low trees having heavy impact.

Yes as I said they are beacon light mounts, easy to use a work light mounts, but on the front having only "one" light on one side will look stupid IMO, the back is probly OK

[threedogs]

too hot ATM to play with it but all is taken on board.
main thing is it needs to hold my wheel hoist securely

[threedogs]

Anyway front bracket cut off, the bracket you see I used onto of a single Rhino rack.
Not 100% happy with , will need to stare at it longer,
I would really like to recess it into the front uprights, [big job]

The more I look at it the more I want to chop the front off
and just leave two side rails. Then I can mount my hoist on the flat plate on the front.
the light bar would mount via two bits of flat angled down slightly from the lower front tube.
I have no idea if I even have enough room to put it under the front.
I'll put pic to see what it looks like

[katwoman]

Always thought you could maybe mount a light bar "underneath", the front of the rack, my mate has one on top, but its only short as it fits between the 2 uprights

Thats where I've got mine. protects it a bit too, from all the crap I throw on the roof. And the axe mounted above the light.

If you keep cutting bits wont it weaken the overall rack too much ?

[megatexture]

The roof rack could be tigers, powerful 4x4 or an eBay job good luck finding out lol.

I also cut the front beacon light mount off and used roof flashing as a wind deflector mounting the light bar underneath, I had to put 10mm spacers on the light bars so it hung lower than the bottom tube though.

Shovel mounts on the left with a bit of tube and nut and bolt.

My High lift mounts on the left also by threaded rod bolted through the rack uprights and the high lift slides on the two rods through the jack holes/steps with wing nuts and cotter pins for quick release (may need pics to show it better).

The awning I made wedge spacers to make it sit vertical and it’s bolted straight through the rack uprights


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=30848&d=1372479780

[megatexture]

From another thread...


Its just a shite design I reckon each upright between top and bottom loop would hold half a cup of water easy.
Its fully welded so water has nowhere to go,
@ Mega do you have this style rack?

Mine looks similar but may have minor differences ( my sides slope inward more)I'll try to get a close up of the mounts for you.

[threedogs]

@ Kat its welded in all directions so very solid.

@ Mega nice to know the light fits underneath, i might
have the top of the light slightly lower than the bottom loop
Pic is of where water collects in side supports
also a pic of the upright where you can see how much water can get trapped

[megatexture]

Yea I thought that's where you were referring to, mines already got holes drilled.


Sorry for the bad pics I used the ipad.... Ffs lol

[threedogs]

thanks Mega mine has no holes, but its a great place for leaves to collect and rot away needs to be checked and cleaned every now and then
One more pic close up of clearance for the light bar when available please
I have about 4 different styles of shovel holders so they aren't a problem
I have 3 x hi-lifts and only really used them for pulling fence posts out lo
leaves just the flag holder thats easy enough 20x20x1.5 RHS with a roll pin or bolt across the base,
this only needs to be 150mm long, cause things dont fall up lol.
But the more I look at it the more I want to chop off the front and back completely but I wont Ha Ha

EDIT rang one of the shops I know to organise the rubbers
for the feet, looks like "U" shaped rubber will do the trick
So light gal sheet for the deflector

using these two pieces of pipe cut about 19mm wide and one tapped with a 5/16 thread.
As my shovel holder I'll weld these on the uprights

[threedogs]

welded on the shovel holder, WTF the steel they use is I have no idea.
Not easy to weld but job done in the end.
Next job is to fabricate the rear roller brackets and weld them on.
Not looking forward to that.
this will all be sand blasted eventually
require a rear ladder as well, not too fancy

[threedogs]

Will weld on this flag bracket tomorrow.
It's made from 20x20x1.5 RHS all I did was flare the top

[Cuppa]

TD, why are you changing from the roofrack you made yourself previously? It looked ok to me.

[threedogs]

I need one that will support my wheel hoist better, this is spot on if not a tad too heavy.
My other is only supported by two Rhino racks, I have a third but it still wouldnt be enough.
This rack ticks all the boxes.

[SG1]

Wont recognize it by the time your finished :D, looking good.

[threedogs]

thanks mate its a heavy bloody thing,lol
Had trouble again welding on the brackets but got it done to my liking

@ Cuppa again just the weight of this alone will counter balance my wheel hoist

[Bob]

Will you have it ready for Beari ??

[Winnie]

What is this wheel hoist you are talking about?

[taslucas]

What is this wheel hoist you are talking about?

To lift spare tyre onto roof rack and save his back.... Geez Winnie pay attention!


@threedogs, beware of cheap imitations!!

[threedogs]

@ Bob I dont think so will be close though'

@ Winnie I have designed a hoist 12v that will lift a wheel/spare off your roof rack and down on the ground and put the flat tyre up on the rack again.
I trialed it last week and even though my rack worked this would work better. pic is of the hoist lifting the wheel.
The first working model is finished so happy with that ,weighs in at 14kg but any production ones so to speak should weigh about 11kg.
I'll acheive that by down sizing material, I only need to lift 50kg no more, it will have a "weak" spot built into it so you cant lift more,
keep the farmers honest lol,
Already have a market for it so hopefully this will be my big ticket item I've been after

I believe Black Widow have one for $2500, but no one will buy them at that price,
Mine will be be well under $1000, and NATA rated to lift 50kg

[threedogs]

@ Lucas yes and half the other ppl on the forum who cant lift a 285combo onto the roof in the Simmo'
I've had the idea over 10 years but went down the block and tackle road then I thought why not 12v ,
Its a long drive out if you wreck your back up the Cape on the CSR or any of the remote out back roads,
Hope you never have back probs but for some just walking to the front door is a chore.
You're lucky having a ute I suppose and dont need to address these things

[macca]

The copiers are going to have a field day with this, great idea. Light and looks good.

[threedogs]

I would probable bet my left one its being copied already.
ppl search these forums for ideas, best I get some made.
I think price is where I'll get them or hope it is lol.
A bit over 1/5th of the BW unit

[threedogs]

way too difficult to weld so I'm just doing the light bar brackets and thats it.
Final colour is going to be flat black

[taslucas]

@ Lucas yes and half the other ppl on the forum who cant lift a 285combo onto the roof in the Simmo'
I've had the idea over 10 years but went down the block and tackle road then I thought why not 12v ,
Its a long drive out if you wreck your back up the Cape on the CSR or any of the remote out back roads,
Hope you never have back probs but for some just walking to the front door is a chore.
You're lucky having a ute I suppose and dont need to address these things

A ute? Nah mate I got no ute.

Oh and I broke three vertebrae in February.

And the copy I was talking about isn't someone copying your hoist but the roof rack you bought that you said is probably an arb copy but of poor quality

[Cuppa]

I have designed a hoist 12v that will lift a wheel/spare off your roof rack and down on the ground and put the flat tyre up on the rack again.


Top idea, really hope it works out for you. I suppose it would all be extra expenditure upfront but have you considered copyright/patents to protect your interests? If it does become your ‘big ticket item’ it might pay to do so. The ‘in your face’ Outback Ideas branding on the product from the outset will help to later make reference to the first/genuine item, but I’d wonder if a patent would protect your interests. Just thinking aloud, I expect you’ve already looked into it.


I would probable bet my left one its being copied already.


The idea perhaps, but not the details.

[threedogs]

@ Cuppa you need a hell of a lot of spare cash just an Aust patent will cost 10k so not worth the paper its written on
then there is a world wide patent $$$$$$
If I was going to protect it in some way I would get Copyright protection, But I had that on my Prado 150 unit
after finding a copy i said yoo hooo I'm gunna sue and own a 4x4 shop. for an initial $2k outlay they wanted an extra $2k to send a letter saying dont sell them
That wont work and we all know why they will just sell under the counter.
Copyright is more a design protection meaning ppl cant copy your design, but I'm very wary of it.
There is nothing out there to fully protect it ubless you have plenty of $$$$$$$$$

[Agronaught]

Patents are tools for large corporates and fools alike. One can afford the lawyers to enforce it, the other can starve on the value it provides.

Only one detail needs to be changed for the patent to be bypassed, for example the design of the mounting bracket.

I knew the person who invented the first automated shelling and sorting machine for macadamia nuts, he spent 10 years on the design and more than 50k on patents etc. He died broke even though his design is used in every processing plant in the world.

You would have more rights on a retail project, but I wouldn't bank on it. How many ripoff arb bullbars have you seen? Do you think they aren't interested in stopping that trade?

Focus on a quality product. If a vendor wants to sell it with their brand, do it. And don't underestimate the value of a product like this in work safe environments.

From a fool...


[edit]

A well produced and marketed trademark however can be gold...

[threedogs]

Found 6 of these 35 watt HID in my shed, is it worth fitting them up and running them on a different circuit,
or over kill, as I will have my 40" light bar underneath,
.
Then remove the two on the bull bar for better air flow

[Cuppa]

@ Cuppa you need a hell of a lot of spare cash

Bugger

Patents are tools for large corporates and fools alike.

And dounble bugger

[threedogs]

@ MEGA do you have the full length or the 3/4 length model??
where do you have the front legs are they on the "B" pillar
I just looked at a mates with a 3/4 on his 80s but he has mounted it
mainly to the back of the 4x4. I notice the roof slops forward allowing the light bar
but I may just weld legs forward of the lower bar and so the top of the light bar is
level with the cage floor

[mudski]

The copiers are going to have a field day with this, great idea. Light and looks good.

Just like his reco plates...
Here's my light bar on a Tigerz alloy rack. I had it higher but it reflected too much on the bonnet. Where it is now is good.

[megatexture]

Ill put up a pic tomorrow for you 3d we have no power atm and my phones on 3% but I basically put the rack on the roof and turned on the light bar and moved the rack back untill the bar stopped lighting up the windscreen

[threedogs]

couple of drops of rain,lol. Thanks Mega I used one of my 36 watt jobs to figure out where the bar will go.
Its in front doh and slightly down so the top of the bar is level with the rack floor.
Whats your thoughts on mounting two 36watt bars sideways, I think the awning
may get in the road .

[Winnie]

I have two lights very similar John and my awning is in the road to put them there.

[megatexture]

Yea that won't work with the awning

[Winnie]

My awning is 2.5m along the car though, don't know what you have

[threedogs]

yeah thought as much, even though a have led strip lights in the awning,
I'm thinking , and only thinking of fitting some kind of led that will light the area ok under the awning
but the light will be attached on the rack, I have a heap of bulls eye Led coming they are small and bright as

I have a 2.5 TJM number

[threedogs]

Heres my flag bracket easy enough to do as a bolt on application.
For a bolt on I would cut the 20x20x1.5 by 200mm long I flared the end with a 3/4 plumbing tool
then all you need is two 3/16th or 1/4 bolt to bolt it inside the upright,
Treat any unpainted surfaces use only zinc coated bolts.
There you go a 5 min flag holder ,drill your first hole 150mm from the top
then another 25 mm spacing, Allow room under for water to escape

[threedogs]

thoughts on this as a deflector its perforated stainless, just trying to use material lying around.
only going to pop it on at this stage. Will also put a small piece each side of the upright as well.
I can fit those bulls eye led as clearance lights on this deflector

[Winnie]

thoughts on this as a deflector its perforated stainless, just trying to use material lying around.
only going to pop it on at this stag. Will also put a small piece each side of the upright as well.
I can fit those bulls eye led as clearance lights on this deflector

Seems pointless, it won't do the job you want it to do

[threedogs]

Ah just remembered I have a nice piece of alloy checker plate that will do the job nicely.
Nearly done , just light bar brackets which I'll do tomorrow and the awning.
the wheel hoist is going to be a chore I'll nut it out over a few cold ones

[threedogs]

Had a look around and found some 12 perspex I had lying around from an old TAB counter.
I'll just spray it matt black and secure with a few rivnuts

[megatexture]

Why not cut off the front uprights and put one piece through the front ?

[threedogs]

It would certainly be strong enough, I dont think it would really matter aero dynamically.
as long as it has something there I think.
Back to the light bar did you use the lightbar mounting brackets, I can either make my own
and weld to the front of the lower loop or weld a piece of flat to the lower loop and use the
lightbar brackets.
The awning I'm going to bolt straight onto the side uprights using a piece of insertion rubber as a gasket.
I dont think the small angle its on will make any difference,
Bit hard ATM as Ive no one to flip the rack so I can weld the light bar brackets on, Damn.
To answer your question you cant weld this stuff I have no idea what type of steel it is other than Chinese
@ mega can you put a pic of lightbar and your roof so I can see clearance please ,,,,when your ready

[Winnie]

Awning straight to the uprights is fine.

The is how I've bolted on the light bar

52098

[threedogs]

Thats looks nice and neat Winnie and easy enough to do as well , no room under the rack on a GQ ?
was going to weld two of these on with the top of the light bar level with the floor of the rack

[Winnie]

There probably is enough room if you raise the front but we had that bit of ally lying around and a milling machine so why not... Lol

[threedogs]

yeah why not indeed its all about KISS, I'd like to retain the original mounting posts like yours, [same bar]
with the rubber as a bit of cushion.
I'll some how turn the rack over and weld some flat plate underneath to except the mounting brackets.
Thanks for that
Been over thinking it I reckon lol

[threedogs]

been looking at it and sorted the light bar mount,Thanks Winnie.
really want to mount the small light bar off to the left, I know light bars are awesome for side way light
just think it may help it a bit more. I'm mounting the awning on the drivers side

[threedogs]

using the original light bar feet will cause the brackets to be way too far towards to edge ,
so I'll have to flip them inside like Winnie has. That will move them in 20mm each side.
Finally. Might have it ready for the weekend at this rate, just need 4 ppl about 6ft high min lol
I was able to flip the rack, you'll notice I welded a tab on fr corner
thats for some 10watt flood lights I use for camp

[megatexture]

Here's some pics of clearance and spacers I needed, my light bars mount differently to yours with 3 mounts per 22" bar


Sorry somehow the first ones upside down... Stupid ipad

[megatexture]

I fit off my front uprights And used roof flashing over the front and wrapped it down around the sides.. It would have come out better if i got it made to fit but I think it come up ok

[threedogs]

thanks heaps lets me know there is plenty of room.
The rack is upside down at the moment will see if it will fit with brackets inverted
like Winnie did. At least I can try using that small led bar.
where are the first set of legs sitting on the Patrol, over the "B" pillar?

Edit after much measuring it will fit straight up underneath ,
two extra holes about 25mm each side of whats there, and turn
the mounting brackets around to suit, Done now but no one to help
turn it back over, as my son is having his first fight this arvo.

NOTE 2 x holes I drilled to let the water out

[macca]

You raised a good point by having the legs over a structural member. Putting it above the "B" pillar puts the weight through the strongest part of the body. Good idea.

[threedogs]

Only mentioned it as the guy up the road with one of these 3/4 size racks moved his to the rear for easier access.
but all the legs are half way across windows etc, but he likes it like that, these are heavy racks.

[threedogs]

these are the bulls eyes led that I'm putting on the rack,
One every upright the rest across the front they will be wired to my parkers.
Great having a son who's an auto electrician lol
this is how the deflector will look, putting a driving light in each corner 4" HID as well
the white dots are where I'll put the bulls eye leds

[megatexture]

Mines a full length rack and if you put the second mount on the b pillar your going to get your windscreen lit up and if you put the front mount on the b pillar it will be hanging past the barn doors. I put mine on then slid it back till the light bar no longer lit up the windscreen and its level with the barn doors.

You should have clearance for the lights under the rack 3d and you have adjustable legs on the rack also mines on the lowest position and I have15-20 mm between roof and light bars.

[threedogs]

Cool thanks mate all sorted now , good having that upward adjustabillity to.
now I've got to figure out what lights to put up top.
Those 150mm ones in the pic are amber and white so was thinking indicator and park lights.
The bulls eyes will be APITB but the effect should look ok

[threedogs]

things you find when cleaning up your shed, I wanted a good work light for the back.
Luck would have it I had a 27 watt flood light spare, I'll wire this up to a switch in the rear I think..
These lights give great light and draw bugger all at the same time

[threedogs]

these are the lights I'm running up top as parker/clearance and indicator/hazzard..
More than bright enough on rainy overcast days IMO

[lucus30]

Love those lights 3d's I am very interested how you are going to wire all this up to the car. Once you get to that stage I'd appreciate lots of pictures
My rack seriously needs some lightage. Will be something for next year I think

[threedogs]

Cool , At the rear I'd love to fit two extra spot lights of about 36 watt only square .
they would fit perfectly on each rear upright support.
Not 100% but might use some type of 5-6 pin plug,
that I can just unplug if I need to remove the rack

Using this style to light up the Stainless steel name plate

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-White-LED-Motorcycle-Car-Number-License-Plate-Bolt-Screw-Light-Lamp-12V-/291152118730?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ca04c3ca

[threedogs]

Pics are of my new leds for the roof rack, two small ones will highlight the SS name plate the other
I hope will be enough to light the area under the awning.
Bullet light is 6watts

[Majestic]

Really enjoying the progress here. Some really great idea's you have going in this build. Love the idea of indicators on the bar. Are the lights you'll be wiring to the parkers legal? I read up on the ADR's a while ago about DLR and Fog lights and they all have a particular height requirement which in most cases are far too low for Patrols.

Looking forward to seeing the end result of this build. :D

[threedogs]

The Patrol is clean so dont expect problems regarding the indicators. basically just clearance lights.
I'm going to fill the uprights up with Sixaflex I think. Also decided to remove the 2 x 36 watt ATV leds from the back
and just fit one 27watt flood work light with a switch inside the rear somewhere.
Still need to sort out the awning mount but dont expect too many troubles.
Need to get it on my roof so I can start on my campers Canopy
I also cut the plate off the back as well

[threedogs]

this is my awning bracket its a piece of 50 x 25 2 mm rhs I had lying around.
I need this to keep the awning from flexing at the front.
so its off to the powder coaters tomorrow to get some protection on it
I have 3 holes drilled to pick up the roof rack these have a rubber grommet
on both sides and will be fixed to the roof rack with gutter bolts and nyloc nuts.
The centre bracket is longer and will have some kind of LED bolted to it

[threedogs]

can anyone tell me if there are any abs spacers or such that go on the mounting
plates to set them up for different roof heights, I dont really want to move it
forward any more if I can help it,
As it is now I can just fit the light bar under it,
not ideal would like a bit of clearance.
I have a 3/4 ARB chinese copy roof rack

[Clunk]

make a bracket so the light bar sits in front of the roof rack instead

[threedogs]

Yeah was thinking that, looks like I need to get some rubber tub liner
and do a bit of welding, Might see if I can drill and tap first.
I have a few different style brackets I could use

[threedogs]

make a bracket so the light bar sits in front of the roof rack instead

Going with your idea seems to be the neatest and quickest.
If the weather is ok tomorrow I'll grab the inverter and go for it

[threedogs]

Picked up my awning bracket this morning, I'll mount it onto the drivers side
after I weld the light bar brackets on, [Im slack as ]
Going to mount it differently now, on the three clamp plates to secure the roof rack I'll drill a hole
and weld in a 5/16th coach bolt x 1 .5" long. Each hole on the yellow bracket has a grommet either side,
so slide onto bolt an then fit a flat washer and a domed nut. This will make it look neat.
The ends are enclosed. Should have it all done today. lol

The Rhino bar on the front will be removed

[threedogs]

pretty sure it will work where I have it mounted,
I can lift it up about an inch if needed.
It worked out better than I Thought so
thats a plus lol
Awning is supported in 3 areas, after marking and drilling the roof rack clamping plates.
I welded some bolts to the rear, and used single use alloy lock nuts to sercure it.

I'll also be mounting a spot light about 5 watt on either the front
or back of the frame

Note missing cross beam from reversing in last week He He

Next job after this is a shelf in the cargo area.

[threedogs]

Here's a better view ,in this pic you can see how much awning
would be left un supported, and now 3 fixing points.

[threedogs]

If I type in "roof rack problems" this doesn't come up any ideas why.

Still haven't fitted the awning yet or the light bar for that matter.
I liked Clunks idea of welding on tabs for the light bar, but I should
have done that when it was on the ground. Figured out using the OE
light bar brackets I can drill 2 holes in the front of the rack and with some
small rubber washers ,fix it that way, It will waterproof the hole at the
same time.
As for the awning bracket its self on the lower bolt I changed it to an eye nut.
Im thinking it will come in handy for something, I have a 5 watt work light on its way
to light up under the awning that has 400 lm more than enough IMO. There is some
good weather coming up in a weeks time, I'll try to have it all done by then.

[Ibbo]

How do you like your 3/4 chinese roof rack? Does setting it at the back reduce effects of wind drag/increased fuel consumption? I need a rack for mine and working through the options

[threedogs]

if you look at the big picture IMO the complete package is not the most aerodynamic shape
only topped by a Land rover Defender and a Troopy.
I only mounted it towards to back as I welded a roller on the rear.
Havent been able to get away since Ive fitted it. On my last 4x4 I lost 30-40 Ks a tank from fitting
a roof rack,out of a 1200k range this one isnt that heavy IMO, Im not expecting a big loss in terms of
Ks travelled.
Before this I had 4 Rhino bars to support the awning, as you can see Ive modified this rack a fair bit
to suit my needs

[threedogs]

nah no good ,my light bar is too wide so I'll have to weld some tabs on the front.
I'll use my high sided floor mats to catch any sparks, spewing chips but you get
that on the big jobs lol
It needs to be welded past that hole you see, just past that weld on the corner

[threedogs]

Even though I think the rack is isolated from the Patrol,
I'm going to dis-connect the start battery just in case,
just waiting for the brackets to dry abit more, next to the
wood heater, only half is sprayed, hoping it will be welded
by 3.30 today

[threedogs]

yeah finally welded the brackets on, again I have no idea what this steel is made of.
All I did was put my deep dish car mats under to trap all the sparks.
In summer I might weld the other side but its not going anywhere in a hurry.
FYI its about an inch off the roof.

DO NOT RECOMMEND WELDING THESE BARS

I'll do a night shot like BA later on

[Ibbo]

Do you think that you will lose much impact from the light through roof shading by having it set back from the front of the car a bit with the 3/4 rack?

[threedogs]

nah its a double row 30 degree spot beam not like the later ones with flood beam on the outside.
Just went for a spin around the block, and it works very, very well, its 240 watts.
plus 100 watt HID driving lights {spots} and 75 watt HID 6000K headlights.
The long cob DRL will be getting changed for some 9watt bulls eyes DRLs about 8 each side.

FYI from where the light bar is mounted the roof line slope forwards and down

If I was into night driving 4x4 tracks my set up would be completely different, I'd be using more LED bars.
I might do what BA has done and mount some on the sides, got 2x 36 watt light bars spare

[threedogs]

Ok need some ideas for my awning light and not led strip lights, I think it can be done better.
Im thinking 8 LED cree DRL with a dimmer., I saw BA had a led work light
shining sideways so any pics would be great, it will mounted where the eye nut is

[gregs]

Threedogs, any luck with your led light. I used to have one but it was portable, I had it attached to an right angle bracket and this just slotted into a raised piece of 25 x 3mm piece of ally flat that was screwed to the inside of my roof basket. Probably more importantly any more info on your spare wheel lifter?

[threedogs]

Threedogs, any luck with your led light. I used to have one but it was portable, I had it attached to an right angle bracket and this just slotted into a raised piece of 25 x 3mm piece of ally flat that was screwed to the inside of my roof basket. Probably more importantly any more info on your spare wheel lifter?

I.ve decided on this 18 watt die cast alloy one from Kawell.
It has a 60 degree beam which Ill wire via a dimmer and remote control
about 200mm long