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View Full Version : DIY CV and Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread



MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 05:41 PM
OK So one of the big maintenance items that we may attempt at home is a CV swap or Swivel Hub Rebuild. I have done this a Few times and have had these pics ready to go for ever!! I have referenced them a few times to members and thought it was time i actually did this thread so here it is!

A Comprehensive Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread (Hopefully)

So firstly THE MOST IMPORTANT Information!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20gauges%20and%20stuff/Screenshot2011-08-14at103139AM.png

55098
In the pic above you have all the info you need to get the job done.

The numbers below each of the tightening points are read like this N-m. kg-m. ft-lb
i.e.Lock nut - 167 - 196 (17 - 20, 123 - 145) = 167-196Nm, 17-20kg-m, 123-145ft-lb

The Black Circle Dot with the white X indicated the item should be replaced every time the hub is stripped.
The Grease gun symbol indicates to pack the seal lip with the recommended grease.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/image_zps1c025081-1.jpg

I have always used Nulon Extreme grease for all my jobs but recently changed to LM grease for the bearings after we did Healys front end.

You will need a Heap of Rags. Lots of them. I also use paper towel as it can get really messy and you will waist a heap of rags.

You will need a clean place to work if you can and jack stands.

Tools will include:a

1/2" Metric socket set
Metric Allen Keys
Pointy Nose Pliers
Vice Grips
Multi grips
Brass Drift or Cold Chistel
Soft face Hammer
Big Hammer
Vice would be bloody handy!


Things i have purchased and rate very highly are the following:

Lip seal remover
Seal/Bearing Insert Kit
Bearing grease press


I also recommend a couple of trays to lay stuff out in and somewhere to put all the bolts and nuts as you take it all off. Stay organised and you will do this easily.


Lip seal removal tool (less than $20)
47293
MECHANICS-SEAL-PULLER-REMOVER-REMOVAL-HAND-TOOL (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MECHANICS-SEAL-PULLER-REMOVER-REMOVAL-HAND-TOOL-ENGINE-GEARBOX-TRANSMISSION-TOOL-/260893443060?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbe7603f4&_uhb=1)



The Bearing Driver kit Less than $50 and Highly recommend one of these to everyone!!)
4729447295
Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set-10-PCS- (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set-10-PCS-Anodised-Kit-Hydraulic-Press-Accessory-/331263167319?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d20d2cb57&_uhb=1)
Cant believe how handy these kits are!!



and the Ducks Guts!! The bearing Grease Packer!! HELL YEAH!!
47296
There are a few different types that will do the same job. I love mine and it was about $50.
Search eBay HERE for Bearing Packer (http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=bearing+tool&_osacat=0&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC1.A0.H0.Xbearin g+packer&_nkw=bearing+packer&_sacat=0&_from=R40)
Once you have used one of these you will Never go back!!


I have used the Terrain Tamer swivel hub rebuild kit a few times and am very happy with the quality of the kit.

As a rule i have always done the Swivel Hub rebuild, wheel bearings and King Pin bearings all at the same time. Doing this rebuild will transform how your front end feels and you will feel the difference through your steering wheel as soon as you drive.

Good Luck and dont hesitate to ask for help if you need it.

Let the Photo Bomb Begin!!!

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 07:00 PM
First crack the wheel nuts and then jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands. You can do one side at a time if you like though and if you just jack up one side then likely you will get away without having to drain the front diff as all the Diff oil will be down the other end. ;)

If you have smashed a CV or it s time for a change then drain the front diff oil before you jack the car up.

For the rebuild featured in this thread i had some company and my good friend Danny from 4WDTV was doing the drivers side while i did the passenger side. Cheers Danny!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020087.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020088.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020089.jpg

in this case i had smashed a CV the weekend before so the whole lot was coming out and cleaned and rebuilt. the Oil was contaminated by broken CV so was out of there.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/P1060055-2.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/P1060056-2.jpg

The diff drain plug told the story!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020097.jpg

A comfortable chair for the win!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020090.jpg

So the brakes need to be taken off and put out of the way. from memory a 22mm socket will get this done. a couple of zip ties to tie it up out of the way works too.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020091.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020092.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020094.jpg

undo the allen keys holding the locking hubs on and it can simple be dropped off. a slight tap with a rubber mallet might be needed if they were glued on before.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020099.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020100.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020102.jpg

Cir-Clip pliers are also very very handy and $15 from Bunnings will get you a good set to do the job.

Take off the Cir-clip off the end of the stub axle. You can see the Cir-Clip on the end of the stub axle in the pic above

So using some multi grips take off the Drive Clutch and you will expose the lock nut. In the pic my locknut had undone and came out too..... Not ideal!! Glad i was stripping it.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020103.jpg

using some pliers grab the edge of the "Egg Ring" spacer and remove.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020106.jpg

i had to use 2 pair of pliers to remove this as it was a little stubborn.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020108.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020109.jpg

next remove the lock nut from the top. If you have a GU then you will be looking at a Round Lock nut with 2 x phillips head locking screws. undo the screws and remove the lock nut.

underneath the lock nut on a GQ is the brass locking ring you bend to limit the movement on the nuts. (this is what did not work and allowed my top nut to undo in the other pic.)

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020111.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020112.jpg

Out comes the retaining plate and the outer wheel bearing.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020113.jpg

Off comes the whole disk. Note that the inner wheel bearing is inside the disk housing.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020114.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020115.jpg

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 07:37 PM
I am pretty certain there is not supposed to be Oil there!!! So this is a result of a blown inner axle seal! the Swivel Hub is full of Diff oil!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020117.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020120.jpg

remove the 6 bolts and set aside. remove the seal and the disk guard.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020121.jpg

Now if your front end has never been stripped or the last guy took extra effort and used a sikaflex sealer to try and keep the water out the next item (Knuckle Spindle) might be glued on with a Gasket sealant of some description. a soft head mallet is your friend.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020122.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020123.jpg

off it comes and what have we here........ Its a CV!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020124.jpg

Note the Brass washer on the face of the CV at the end of the Axle. Grab the CV by the Axle and pull towards you. there is a Long or a Short Axle attached to the other end going to the Diff centre. completely remove this as a single item and set aside.

And inside you have an inner axle seal

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020125.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020126.jpg

Now you need to remove the Tie rod from the back of the swivel hub on both sides and the Drag link from the front of the left side too. You need to split the Tie rod ends. a couple of very good Hits with a steal hammer in the sweet spot should pop them out without too much trouble or grab yourself one of these from Supercheap. (mine is now broken and i just use a hammer but this worked a treat.)

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020131.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020133.jpg

they will be off in no time

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020134.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020135.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020136.jpg

Remove the rear scraper seal from the back side of the hub.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020137.jpg

NOTE*** One of these bolts is the Steering Lock set bolt. Note which it is and try not to adjust it. it has a double locking nut on it.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020138.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020139.jpg

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 07:44 PM
Next is the top and bottom King Pin Bearings. These hold the whole swivel hub on.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020143.jpg

remove all 4 bolts and them lift out.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020145.jpg

Yeah i think mine was contaminated!!! Glad i was stripping it out!!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020146.jpg

Repeat for the bottom 4 bolts and them you should be able to take it off completely!!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020147.jpg

note the parts laid out on the Tub Lid on the ground. The tub is full of degreaser and was a bit of a Parts washer.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020148.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020150.jpg

Danny has been busy too ;) Thanks Danny!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC020151.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030154.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030155.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030156.jpg

All Cleaned up and ready to go!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030157.jpg

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 07:59 PM
Now disappointingly!! I did not get any pics of removing teh king pin bearings from the caps. They are a bit of a bugger to do but there is a trick to it!. Next time i do a set i will grab some pics and add them to this thread.

Edit 25/3/2019. Here is the missing pics


Ok so i took these pics last year and thought i had uploaded them but did not.

Here are dome pics for removing the king pin bearings 2 different ways.

Option 1 needs a bearing removal clamp and a vice.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/284.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/285.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/286.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/287.jpg

Install in vice loosely so it is just sitting in there hanging from the clamp

Punch and hammer.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/288.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/289.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/290.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/291.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/292.jpg

Easy job.

Lmm grease is great for the wheel bearings and CV

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/293.jpg

Option 2 is to use a pair of pointy nose pliers and a flat screw driver. 3 points of contact make light work of it

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/294.jpg

Remove the lip seal under the bearing. Just wreck it and rip it out. This makes space for the pliers

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/295.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/296.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/297.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/298.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/299.jpg

The taper on the pliers will do the work here. Wedge in and work it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/300.jpg

Screw driver from the other side.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/301.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/302.jpg

Wahlah.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/303.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/304.jpg




Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


Basically put the cap in the vice with the bearing facing up. rip off the rubber seal from under it and stick a pair of pointy nose pliers in there. with a flat blade screw driver create 3 points of contact and lever it off. it will come off pretty easily. The taper of the pliers will add to the wedge and it will have it off quickly.

OK Clean everything up and clear off your work space. you have completed the strip.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/56.jpg

Danny's side had been the one that smashed a CV and there was a fair bit of damage to the inside of the swivel hub there. nothing a dremel and some sand paper did not fix though.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/57.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/58.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/59.jpg

OK Time to put it back together again!

Scraper seals.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/60.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/61.jpg

Over the knuckle end.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/62.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/63.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/64.jpg

Line it all up.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/65.jpg

If you still have them then install the grease cups. Dont be too worried, the 80 series Toyota does not even run them!. If they are wrecked dont worry about replacing them. they are pretty pointless.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/66.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/67.jpg

Inner Axle seal! This one is pretty important! BE GENTLE! BE STRAIGHT! A Little grease around the outside of it and into the seat will help it go in straight.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/68.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/69.jpg

This is where the Bearing Race Insert Kit comes into its own!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/70.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/71.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/72.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/73.jpg

Happy Days!!

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 08:15 PM
Now its time to get all your bearings ready to go into the new front end.

Did i mention the bearing grease press??? !!!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030180.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030181.jpg

Push the grease through the bearing until it comes out the top!!! Yep all done in seconds! Regardless of the size of bearing! OH YEAH!!!!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030183.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030184.jpg

Then press the king pin bearings back onto the cups with the vice. Nice and straight. Nice and tight. I used a socket to protect the bearing.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030185.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030186.jpg

I was doing all 4 at once so i matched the outer races with the bearings and sat them in to protect and stay together.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030187.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030188.jpg

So using the Bearing Race insert tool again (or a good sized socket) install the outer king pin race into the Knuckle.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030210.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030191.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030211.jpg

I use Anti Seize onto the bolts so i can undo them again next time.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030202.jpg

Install the top bolts loosely.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030203.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030204.jpg

Then fit up the bottom one too.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030197.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030214.jpg

Tighten all bolts

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030216.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030221.jpg

bed in the rear scraper seal and install the cover plate. This can be a little confusing, take your time and it will bed in perfectly.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030207.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030208.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030223.jpg

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 08:21 PM
Now for the Big Bearings!! The Wheel bearings on a Nissan are a fair size. but my Bearing grease press eats them up! Love this thing!!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030224.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030225.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030226.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030227.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030228.jpg

Yep thats right!! Done and Dusted! Love it!

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 08:33 PM
So time to pack teh CV with Grease. I use Hi Temp Extreme grease here but i am impressed with the LM Grease that NissanNewby was using for Healy's car.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030240.jpg

Get Dirty! Get that Grease in there!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030242.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030243.jpg

Time to put this sucker In!! What out for that inner axle seal that you fitted earlier! this is the most critical stage! try not to place all the weight of the axle and CV onto the bottom of that seal or you may wreck it. DO NOT sit the axle on it and slide it in! this will certainly wreck the seal and you will be stripping it out again next week end.

The CV does Not ned to be coated on the outside with Grease as it is floating in Air and needs No Lubrication. Do Not pack grease into the inner swivel Hub. It is Not required.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030244.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030245.jpg

The Long side is harder to refit than the short side due to shear weight of the length of inner axle.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030246.jpg

Gentle push down to lift the other end of the axle into the Diff Centre. slight turns. Gentle Gentle Gentle.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030247.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030248.jpg

and we are IN

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030249.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030250.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030251.jpg

Next is the Brass washer. Note that the taper goes to the CV. Very important. get it wrong and you wont know until the final moment when it all wont fit and you strip back to here again!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030267.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030268.jpg

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 08:46 PM
Next is the Knuckle Spindle.

Use a Brass Drift or bis screw driver to remove the old needle bearing and install the new one.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030252.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030253.jpg

Love that bearing insert tool..... Did i say that already?

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030254.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030255.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030257.jpg

Prepare the Grease seal for the back of the Spindle and install it.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030260.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030262.jpg

We want to keep the water out of this so Gasket Maker is your friend. Seal it up as you go.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030263.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030264.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030265.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030266.jpg

On it goes.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030269.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030270.jpg

Dont forget the disk guard. (sux if you do then have to strip to fit later) :(

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030271.jpg

On with the Dust seal from your kit.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030272.jpg

Line up the bolts and install

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030273.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030274.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030275.jpg

Tension to spec.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030279.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030280.jpg

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 08:57 PM
OK now for the wheel bearings.

So you had to strip out the inner race from inside the Disk. Yes its a bugger of a job and a Brass Drift is your friend. I have used the old race to make a new insert tool for this job. I have ground 0.5mm off the outer face of teh bearing race making it a sloppy fit into the seat. This allows me to use it to install the new bearing race without damage and without it getting stuck in there too. Very handy!!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030281.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030282.jpg

Bit of grease to help us bed the new race into position.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030284.jpg

the new race in then the old race in on top.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030285.jpg

Its the right size ;)

Did i mention the Bearing Insert tool before??!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030286.jpg

a few good hits and she s in.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030287.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030288.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030289.jpg

other side needs to go in the same way. Flip the disk and grease up and good to go.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030290.jpg

Yep Love that Bearing Insert tool ;)

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030291.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030292.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030294.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030295.jpg

Grease seal on the inside of the disk ready to go.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030296.jpg

did i mention the Grease press before??

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030297.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030298.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030300.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030301.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030302.jpg

****EDIT 12th March 2017****

Please note that I am advised that the grease seal in the pics below has actually been installed backwards. I note that I have installed many of these seals like this and never had an issue with Wheel Bearings or damaged seals but Nissan says it should be the other way.

Please see the cross section image below showing the double lip seal facing away from the bearing

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2014/07/47.jpg

Attention. The seal in the pic below is in backwards. Install with the double lip seal facing out. Apologies to all.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030305.jpg

using a small drift or driver with a mallet bed the grease seal.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030306.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030307.jpg

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 09:27 PM
Getting excited now folks!!! its all going back together.

Disk On

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030311.jpg

install the washer

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030314.jpg

First nut

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030316.jpg

then tension the Hub Nut up to 145ft/lb and turn the disk both ways to work the grease and take up the slack.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030320.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030321.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030319.jpg

Then undo the nut to zero tension, respin the disk and retighten to factory spec 3.6ft/lb (near hand tight).

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 09:43 PM
Once you have tensioned your wheel bearings to the correct spec insert the new Brass locking tab.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030322.jpg

Install the locking nut and tighten

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030323.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030324.jpg

Bend the tabs of the brass tab over the inner and outer nuts to lock them both in.

Install the Hub Spacer

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030325.jpg

Grease up the "Egg Ring" Bush

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030326.jpg

Install.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030327.jpg

Install the Drive Clutch again.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030329.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030330.jpg

Using your multi grips grab the end of the axle and pull it out as far as you can!. You should expose the groove for the Cir-Clip. If you cant get it then something is not seated properly and you will likely have to strip back to the CV and go again! Very Very Frustrating at this time! Make sure you seat Everything well and correctly! 2mm at this time will break your heart! I Promise!.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030331.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030332.jpg

Install the Cir-Clip. then time for the Locking Hub. Take the opportunity to clean it out and regrease it ready for the next 100,000kms.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030333.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030334.jpg

Use the gasket Goo around the joint again. Keep that water out!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030335.jpg

Anti Seize the bolts and Bolt her up!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030336.jpg

Brake Calliper back on and bolt her up. Take the opportunity to check the brake pads.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/PC030337.jpg

Refit your wheels and tighten your wheel nuts. Tension your wheel nuts to factory spec (147Nm or 108ft/lb) I make a point of greasing my wheel studs to allow the nuts to tension to spec. I have not had a wheel come off and always hold correct tension after tightening properly.

DONT FORGET! FILL YOUR DIFF WITH OIL! Tip* heat the bottle of Oil in a Pot of hot water the heat up the oil as its thick stuff, it will make it heaps easier to pump in.

Hope this has been of some help to you guys. Dont be shy if you get stuck. post a question and plenty here will be able to help.

Cheers MudRunnerTD.

MudRunnerTD
19th July 2014, 09:54 PM
Doing the above job is the bush can be tough. If you smash a CV in the bush then you will not be installing a full kit through the front end as above to get you back on the road but it is recommended when you get home. Look at that drain plug! the metal goes everywhere!


A Smashed CV in the bush!!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/P1060055-1.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/P1060052-1.jpg

Danny was on hand for this one too.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/P1060053-1.jpg

Yep think she's Knackered for sure!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/P1060051-1.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/P1060048-1.jpg

he's not a bad Navi! no hesitation! he was straight into it!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/P1060058.jpg

graeme1969
20th July 2014, 02:27 AM
Thanks for the effort of putting this thread together. Much appreciated. Got me keen to give that a crack now.

NissanGQ4.2
20th July 2014, 06:39 AM
Now disappointingly!! I did not get any pics of removing teh king pin bearings from the caps. They are a bit of a bugger to do but there is a trick to it!. Next time i do a set i will grab some pics and add them to this thread.

I think you really need 2 add these missing pics and I just happen 2 know where where there is a swivel hub that need redoing.

I've done it once when I broke my CV never again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great thread Daz

lucus30
20th July 2014, 08:28 AM
Great write up. Certainly wish I had the skills to do this

Parksy
20th July 2014, 08:41 AM
This is awesome. Thanks for the write up.

scubasteve
20th July 2014, 06:13 PM
Awesome write up mate I'm about to purchase a kit and get mine done and this is exactly what i was looking for. Much Appreciated

AB
20th July 2014, 06:16 PM
Great write up Dazz and will help many of members mate, well done!!!

scubasteve
20th July 2014, 06:44 PM
Im trying to keep costs down a bit so looking at a kit on ebay. Im wondering if it looks like it will include everything thats needed.
This is the one im looking at mainly because it includes the 54mm socket for the hub nuts.
http://r.ebay.com/trN1oF
cheers

MudRunnerTD
20th July 2014, 07:10 PM
Im trying to keep costs down a bit so looking at a kit on ebay. Im wondering if it looks like it will include everything thats needed.
This is the one im looking at mainly because it includes the 54mm socket for the hub nuts.
http://r.ebay.com/trN1oF
cheers


It has Japanese bearings and I think looks like good value.

K1W1
18th August 2014, 08:05 PM
Excellent thread from start to finish, this is a job I will have to do in the near future and as I only get home for a few weeks at a time would like to have everything ready to go to complete the job in a day if I can. I will get one of those Kits mentioned above and look for the bearing and seal tools

MudRunnerTD
18th August 2014, 08:27 PM
Excellent thread from start to finish, this is a job I will have to do in the near future and as I only get home for a few weeks at a time would like to have everything ready to go to complete the job in a day if I can. I will get one of those Kits mentioned above and look for the bearing and seal tools

No dramas mate. Have a look at the first post and you will find I embedded a link to buy each of the tools for your interest. Glad it helps.

K1W1
18th August 2014, 08:33 PM
I am looking now, I see the mob you got your Bearing and Seal set off claims one left, I am having a look for one in NZ to save the shipping hassle. I have asked a mate in TSV to buy me the bearing set and bring it ti NZ when they come next month. I will be away till Dec and want everything ready to go when I get there.

K1W1
22nd August 2014, 03:53 PM
When doing the swivel bearings how do you determine the preload on the bearings?

I see there are various shims available to adjust it if it is tight but I am curious how you determine the right setting.

MudRunnerTD
22nd August 2014, 05:11 PM
When doing the swivel bearings how do you determine the preload on the bearings?

I see there are various shims available to adjust it if it is tight but I am curious how you determine the right setting.

To be honest i never have. I replace the shims that come out and thats it. I have never measures that preload other than by feel.

mudnut
22nd August 2014, 05:14 PM
Fantastic write up and pictures, MR. Thank you for putting in such a great effort.

Drewboyaus
22nd August 2014, 05:17 PM
Great post Daz! This is a job I need to do.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Conradk
31st October 2014, 10:22 PM
For my part, a truly awesome post. I am about to overhaul my front hubs and until this post felt a bit lost despite having the manual at hand. Its posts like these that make this forum so good. Many thanks for the guidance.

tallman
9th November 2014, 01:36 AM
"The Bearing Driver kit Less than $50 and Highly recommend one of these to everyone!!)"


Where the hell did you get that price from?..lol cant find one on ebay for less than $90

89GQ
9th November 2014, 02:00 AM
"The Bearing Driver kit Less than $50 and Highly recommend one of these to everyone!!)"


Where the hell did you get that price from?..lol cant find one on ebay for less than $90Heres one

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231378144679?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

89GQ
9th November 2014, 08:25 PM
What an awesome how to MudRunner, great detail and pics. I been putting this off for a while now , and now am more than confident to tackle it after reading this.

Thanks heaps.. :) :)

89GQ
9th November 2014, 08:31 PM
Question with the scraper seal, do you put the joins up top,opposite each other, anywhere ???? Cheers

MudRunnerTD
9th November 2014, 11:55 PM
Cheers mate, glad you have found it helpful.. Yes i fit the join at the top but should not really matter.

K1W1
16th December 2014, 07:09 PM
Hi,

I stripped my front hubs today and found no circlips at all.

My truck has run well on and off road since 2008 when I got it so my question is what do they actually do and what size are they as I will have to go to an engineering supply place to get them if someone could post a photo of one and a size this would be very helpful.

MudRunnerTD
16th December 2014, 07:30 PM
Check inside your locking hubs. Do you have auto or manual hubs mate? Check embedded in the grease.

Note there are 2 groove on the axle. The circlip will fit into that groove. The inside groove is used when you have auto hubs and the groove near the end of the axle is used when you have manual hubs. Put a vernier on it

Parksy
16th December 2014, 07:55 PM
If you pull the spindle off, it has a seal on the inside of it. The cv is hard up against this, if the circlip is installed. Without the circlip, this could cause a transfer of cv grease through the spindle and into the hubs themselves.

K1W1
16th December 2014, 08:33 PM
Hi,

I am out in the boonies and don't have a vernier, I can use a bit of string and work out the diameter of the groove that way. My closest engineering supplies mob is 50 km away.

Is it a circlip like you would find in a gearbox or does it have two holes in it for the pliers to go in?

I have manual hubs and have felt around inside the hub and can't feel anything.

My hub seals are showing signs of weeping this year for the first time ever, is the lack of circlips likely to be the main culprit?

It was the infrequent wobble at 60 km that started me looking at the wheel bearings.

Parksy
16th December 2014, 08:53 PM
This is what you're after
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-Axle-Snap-Ring-1-1-3925301J00W-/291256866235?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43d04315bb

K1W1
16th December 2014, 09:14 PM
Thanks, One real annoyance is I bought a rebuild kit and all I can see it doesn't have is these clips.

MudRunnerTD
16th December 2014, 10:00 PM
Thanks, One real annoyance is I bought a rebuild kit and all I can see it doesn't have is these clips.

Yeah nah they are not part of the kit as they should never need replacing. The lack of them could certainly be giving you all kinds of issues. Replace and refit into the outer groove

Drewboyaus
17th December 2014, 07:05 AM
Quick question, I'm not far off getting this job done, should I do the wheel bearings at the same time everything is apart or just stick to my original plan of swivel hubs and kingpin bearings? I need to buy the kit and trying to decide if I should get the wheel bearings too....

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

BigRAWesty
17th December 2014, 07:47 AM
Quick question, I'm not far off getting this job done, should I do the wheel bearings at the same time everything is apart or just stick to my original plan of swivel hubs and kingpin bearings? I need to buy the kit and trying to decide if I should get the wheel bearings too....

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

If you haven't done them before I'd personally do them. Preventative maintenance

MudRunnerTD
17th December 2014, 10:03 AM
Quick question, I'm not far off getting this job done, should I do the wheel bearings at the same time everything is apart or just stick to my original plan of swivel hubs and kingpin bearings? I need to buy the kit and trying to decide if I should get the wheel bearings too....

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

I promise you Drew, you will bloody Kick yourself for even asking this when you have it stripped down. No brainer for me mate. for the cost, just do it. if they look OK then clean them up and repack them and put a set in a Ziplock bag for spares but replace for sure. Buy the kit that includes Wheel Bearings for sure.

Drewboyaus
17th December 2014, 11:23 AM
Thanks mate.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

MudRunnerTD
17th December 2014, 01:33 PM
When are you looking to do the job Drew?

Drewboyaus
17th December 2014, 02:35 PM
Not 100% sure mate. Some time reasonably soon after Christmas. It's one of a bunch of jobs I have to do. I just need to recover a bit more as I get bloody tired at the moment after not doing very much.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Parksy
17th December 2014, 09:09 PM
Have just done this job and the wheel bearings are dead set easy to do. Worth doing at the same time.

Warehouseno27
10th March 2015, 01:18 AM
Many thanks MudRunnerTD, will be using this thread shortly!!

scubasteve
11th March 2015, 02:47 PM
Not sure if its been covered yet but how much grease should I be buying to do the full job? Will be doing it in a couple of weekends

MudRunnerTD
11th March 2015, 05:34 PM
Not sure if its been covered yet but how much grease should I be buying to do the full job? Will be doing it in a couple of weekends

Not a lot really. A tub of LMM grease and a tub of Bearing grease. You will have enough to do the job 5 times.

scubasteve
27th March 2015, 12:21 PM
Ok so did the rebuild over the last couple of days. This write up was a great help and I knew exactly what needed to be done. Mind you I encountered countless issues that just needed a bit more technical know how and some proffesional equipment as I just couldnt get the bigger wheel bearing races in nice but in the end I got them all rebuilt. I also did the steering box change to a later model box (which was top entry instead of bottom entry for the draglink). This meant a new adjustable draglink which I was going to get anyway. I also did the front brake pads and found the driver side piston is seized. So all in all it was definately a learning curve and the car is finally back on the road but id mostly love to thank all the good info I got on here it made it all alot simpler

Stropp
27th March 2015, 07:26 PM
Ok so did the rebuild over the last couple of days. This write up was a great help and I knew exactly what needed to be done. Mind you I encountered countless issues that just needed a bit more technical know how and some proffesional equipment as I just couldnt get the bigger wheel bearing races in nice but in the end I got them all rebuilt. I also did the steering box change to a later model box (which was top entry instead of bottom entry for the draglink). This meant a new adjustable draglink which I was going to get anyway. I also did the front brake pads and found the driver side piston is seized. So all in all it was definately a learning curve and the car is finally back on the road but id mostly love to thank all the good info I got on here it made it all alot simpler


steve thats what this forum is about, help each other out where possible and especially guys like MR who have heaps of knowledge and isnt a bad bloke to go with it :)

Gettnstarted
9th April 2015, 12:07 PM
Great thread mate ! About to do a forced rebuild ! so was nice to get a run through and use as a reference as I can't access manuals yet due to being a newbie !

OMFGITZDAV
29th July 2015, 06:14 PM
Hey guys, I was starting the same job today of replacing all the seals and bearings for my axle and I hit a problem straight up.
As soon as I took the hub lock off (the one with the Allen keys to it) I had a few broken pieces fall out. 60173
The car is a 92 GQ TB42E. We have automatic hubs (the ones that say lock and auto). Now can anyone tell me where can I get another hub kit to repair or do I need a whole new one? The are just 2 rings broken as you can see by the picture. One of them (the flatter wider one) I'm sure I have a replacement for as I think it comes with the kit I have, and the other I have no idea what it is and if I can get away with putting it back together without it. What is your advice on this guys?

liftlid
29th July 2015, 06:54 PM
Get a set of manual hubs, much stronger and should be a direct swap

OMFGITZDAV
29th July 2015, 07:05 PM
Yeah, the manual ones are a lot stronger for sure but it's not an option right now to buy new ones, so that's my dilemma. I've looked for parts and by the looks of things, you can only buy a whole thing not the pieces. I'm hoping I can put it back together to get me out of trouble for now. I'm not liking my chances though. It was driving just fine beforehand until I got to 100km on the highway then it started vibrating (not wobbling, just noise), but that could have just been because the axle seal was leaking and the whole thing was flooded with oil.

OMFGITZDAV
30th July 2015, 11:35 AM
And by the way.... How do you separate the king pin bearings so I can put the new ones in?

liftlid
30th July 2015, 07:13 PM
And by the way.... How do you separate the king pin bearings so I can put the new ones in?
Used a bearing puller under bearing, sat the puller on the open vice and tapped out with hammer

60181

MudRunnerTD
30th July 2015, 07:31 PM
Alternatively if you don't have the separator Liftlid just posted (handy bit of kit but it needs to be a small one) you can use a pair of pointy nose pliers Nd remove the seal from under the bearing, this will give you some room to move under the bearing.


Set the king pin base in the vice with the bearing facing up.
Insert the pointy nose pliers horizontally under the bearing on each side.
Using a large flat head screw driver insert under the bearing from the other side.
You now have 3 points of contact.
The taper of the pointy nose pliers helps.
Leaver and wiggle.
It will pop off fairly easily using this method. A second pair of hands at this point would be helpful but not essential.

MudRunnerTD
30th July 2015, 07:34 PM
Push / press the new bearing on using the vice.

dom14
30th November 2015, 11:05 PM
Thanx for creating this thread mate.

bexi
11th January 2016, 08:05 PM
Is any one able to clarify which way round the metal scraper ring goes on?
I tried assembling the way it looks MR did it and it wasn't going together well at all so i swapped it round the other way and everything went in beautifully.
Basically, the scraper ring is shaped a bit like a Z... I have fitted mine so that one end of the Z sits inside swivel housing and the other end of the Z sits outside the scraper seal... further to the desription... the way that I have fitted the scraper ring matches the profile of the step inside the swivel housing.

Also, what do you mean MR when you say "bed the scraper seals in"?

MudRunnerTD
11th January 2016, 11:31 PM
Is any one able to clarify which way round the metal scraper ring goes on?
I tried assembling the way it looks MR did it and it wasn't going together well at all so i swapped it round the other way and everything went in beautifully.
Basically, the scraper ring is shaped a bit like a Z... I have fitted mine so that one end of the Z sits inside swivel housing and the other end of the Z sits outside the scraper seal... further to the desription... the way that I have fitted the scraper ring matches the profile of the step inside the swivel housing.

Also, what do you mean MR when you say "bed the scraper seals in"?

Hi mate I had to go and re read what I wrote to get the context. When I wrote Bed I am talking about the rubber seals and the steal scraper, they will seat or bed into each other and really only go 1 way. There is no mistake, when they seat in you will know, sounds like you got it. I had another look at the pic and things are in the right way, maybe the pic lack a little clarity though, I can just make out the shape of the scraper. Just.

bexi
11th January 2016, 11:39 PM
I just took some pics... It goes this way right??
63800

And NOT this way
63801

MudRunnerTD
11th January 2016, 11:47 PM
Sorry mate it's difficult to tell without having it in front of me. Match the steal ring to the rubber seals as a 3some. That will clarify how it sits into the hub. Then the retaining plates will sit flat over them. Mock fit them and the plates onto the back and it should be pretty clear.

bexi
12th January 2016, 12:02 AM
ok thanks for your help.
I did do a mock fit and it all sits beautifully if steel ring is fitted as in first pic.... I just wasn't sure if it needed to be fitted the other way and then all squashed in tight when doing up the bolts.
One last question... do you know what this washer is for?
(Gu hubs by the way)
63802

MudRunnerTD
12th January 2016, 12:35 AM
So firstly THE MOST IMPORTANT Information!

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20gauges%20and%20stuff/Screenshot2011-08-14at103139AM.png

55098
In the pic above you have all the info you need to get the job done.

The numbers below each of the tightening points are read like this N-m. kg-m. ft-lb
i.e.Lock nut - 167 - 196 (17 - 20, 123 - 145) = 167-196Nm, 17-20kg-m, 123-145ft-lb

The Black Circle Dot with the white X indicated the item should be replaced every time the hub is stripped.
The Grease gun symbol indicates to pack the seal lip with the recommended grease.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20CV%20rebuild/image_zps1c025081-1.jpg



That is a snip from the opening post in this thread. The washer you are holding is pictured in the middle of that diagram and is called a Lock Washer and sits under the top nut holding the wheel bearings on. If you have GU setup and are using the round nuts with the holes then this is redundant.

If you click on the second small pic there is is much clearer and it will blow up.

Note also that the exploded diagram is there for the scraper seals too mate.

bexi
12th January 2016, 06:41 AM
yes i read the whole thread before posting and now that you say that, I can see what you mean..... I just found it difficult to read the diagram and the pictures were not clear for my dodgy eyes.
Thank you so much for your help

oddkid82
18th March 2016, 10:10 AM
Hey. I am wanting to do this rebuild in the next few months. What are good brands of kits to get and where to get them.
Been looking on ebay, are the drivetech 4x4 ones any good. They use the toyo bearings.

Robo
18th March 2016, 10:51 AM
Great thread thanks for all the pics & build tips.
This thread will give many confidence to tackle this job.
Its not a hard job just time consuming agree some tools and patience is needed.
Not being picky,(did I miss something) the swivel preload check is done before the rear wiper seals are fitted correct ?.
Again, great pics n thread.

Now I've read whole thread I see you go by feel,ok.
When I did it the first time I did the same used original shims nice n smooth, but thought what the heck, check it any way.
It was out and needed adjusting, so long ago cant remember how much but it was to loose.
I think you've done a fantastic job, just putting it out there.
I always read your input and consider your advice invaluable.

MudRunnerTD
18th March 2016, 11:51 AM
Hey. I am wanting to do this rebuild in the next few months. What are good brands of kits to get and where to get them.
Been looking on ebay, are the drivetech 4x4 ones any good. They use the toyo bearings.

Hi mate, i like the Terrain Tamer Kit personally but as long as the kit you buy has ALL the parts you need then go for it. i'd recommend installing wheel bearings while your there too for sure.


Great thread thanks for all the pics & build tips.
This thread will give many confidence to tackle this job.
Its not a hard job just time consuming agree some tools and patience is needed.
Not being picky,(did I miss something) the swivel preload check is done before the rear wiper seals are fitted correct ?.
Again, great pics n thread.

Now I've read whole thread I see you go by feel,ok.
When I did it the first time I did the same used original shims nice n smooth, but thought what the heck, check it any way.
It was out and needed adjusting, so long ago cant remember how much but it was to loose.
I think you've done a fantastic job, just putting it out there.
I always read your input and consider your advice invaluable.

Cheers Robo, yeah to be honest i just do the tension for the king pin bearing by feel. Not ideal, most comments you read online say refit the existing spacers back where they came from, I can clearly see the floors in this argument but do it anyway. As an exercise i should certainly set up the spring rate checker as described in the Manual and see where it all sits for sure. Have you by chance got any pics of when you did your check? keen to see how you did it.

Cheers MR

oddkid82
19th March 2016, 03:19 PM
Hi mate, i like the Terrain Tamer Kit personally but as long as the kit you buy has ALL the parts you need then go for it. i'd recommend installing wheel bearings while your there too

I gave terrain tamer a call for a price, a bit more expensive than the ones I was looking at. Hmmm decisions decisions.
Ps love the thread. Its going to help a lot ��

Robo
19th March 2016, 08:57 PM
Hi mate, i like the Terrain Tamer Kit personally but as long as the kit you buy has ALL the parts you need then go for it. i'd recommend installing wheel bearings while your there too for sure.



Cheers Robo, yeah to be honest i just do the tension for the king pin bearing by feel. Not ideal, most comments you read online say refit the existing spacers back where they came from, I can clearly see the floors in this argument but do it anyway. As an exercise i should certainly set up the spring rate checker as described in the Manual and see where it all sits for sure. Have you by chance got any pics of when you did your check? keen to see how you did it.

Cheers MR

Cheers MR, na mate I haven't any pics .
Did the passengers side last night.
This time the original factory fitted (I assume) shims of 2x .0127mm, was tighter than spec by about 1 kg.
little weird that a .254 wasn't fitted instead, but guess removing again was a waste of time in motion for the fitter.
I use an adjustable pull scale in kg, they can be zeroed also a very useful feature which help accuracy.
I have an laboratory bench scale at work which I tested mine against for accuracy, came up trumps.

I did it it 3 steps.
1st -- 1ea top n bottom oem fitted .0127 shim, measured 3.5 kg resistance.
2nd-- + .127 top n bottom again and this reduced it to 2.5 kg.
3rd-- 1ea x new .254mm + new .075mm came in about 1.85 kg.
I settled on that.
3.5kg felt by hand to tight to me.
1.85kg bit over spec, but I'm happy with, so left at that.

Reason I didn't try for lower towards factory spec, it also felt smooth to pull by hand from a stand still, not a "jerk" to get it to move,
where 2.5kg & above felt to stiff at start of movement.
cheers Robo
Tip -- if ya don't want to change the diff oil.
jack 1 side at a time & air down the opposite side if needed, worked for me.

Robo
23rd March 2016, 03:04 AM
Took some pics while doing the drivers side.
Not many I'm flat out trying to get ready for easter hols.

Pre tested the drivers side to see where it actually was before repair.
Removed the spindle & CV but left the wiper seals on and it gave a reading of 200 grams, so it's completely worn out yeah!.
Recon the reading was only the actual weight of hub N seals @ 200g

Coming apart 65635.
Pressing swivels off 65636.
Ready to grease 65637.
Greased 65638.
Pull resistance test 65639.
65640
The pull test was using the original shims of .5mm & this gave 950 grams resistance.
This setting of 950g felt way to light to me by hand, yes it's within specs of .5 to 1.5kg ,
Reduced shims and settled on 1.55 kg.
sum up 1 side was completely out using old shims and the other was within spec.
Maybe it's just a case by case basis.

daggy
17th July 2016, 12:59 PM
What a great write up. Just finished this job. Without the detailed pics and explanation I don't think I would have even attempted this job.

MudRunnerTD
17th July 2016, 01:39 PM
What a great write up. Just finished this job. Without the detailed pics and explanation I don't think I would have even attempted this job.

That's awesome mate, glad it gave you confidence. Cheers for the feedback.

Maxhead
18th July 2016, 03:07 PM
I need some help with this bugger Daz, any ideas? Lol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/07/205.jpg





….................... On the move

BigRAWesty
18th July 2016, 03:55 PM
I need some help with this bugger Daz, any ideas? Lol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/07/205.jpg





….................... On the move
Your in it....
There's ya problem..

MudRunnerTD
18th July 2016, 08:13 PM
i need some help with this bugger daz, any ideas? Lol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/07/205.jpg


….................... On the move


epic!!!!!!!!!!

Plasnart
18th July 2016, 08:17 PM
I need some help with this bugger Daz, any ideas? Lol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/07/205.jpg





….................... On the move

Ukkenell, thats not ridgy didge surely!

LandRoverGhost
19th July 2016, 09:07 AM
That's what we need : a little mechanic in a box in our toolkit :-)

LandRoverGhost
19th July 2016, 09:10 AM
Thanks heaps for this mate, although not very different from doing my passed away Land Rover one all the little tricks you taught us and handy tool advice will help me big time soon !!
I PDF'ed it and its now in my iPad for use next to that big job ;-)

Throbbinhood
19th July 2016, 09:21 AM
I PDF'ed it and its now in my iPad for use next to that big job ;-)

Should throw the pdf up for the rest of us :)

LandRoverGhost
19th July 2016, 09:23 AM
Can't thank you enough for this post - just fabulous !!

FNqGu04
14th January 2017, 11:15 PM
Great write up
I need to do this , just need to find some nice flat concrete in the shade to work on .
Will get the kit from Allied Bearings in Cairns .

michaelgreeny
15th March 2017, 08:37 AM
Hey guys,

A shameless bump here, the photo that is attached shows leaking oil. Is this thread what I need to do to fix the problem?

71230

MudRunnerTD
16th March 2017, 12:33 AM
Hey guys,
A shameless bump here, the photo that is attached shows leaking oil. Is this thread what I need to do to fix the problem?
71230

Yes but you have plenty of time, that is more a Weep than a leak. It all looks like it has seen some salt water though, so when your ready id do a full rebuild and swap the wheel and king pin bearings for sure.

RSendout
1st July 2017, 12:44 AM
Just noticed that I need to do this on mine but can't see the pics....

MudRunnerTD
1st July 2017, 09:44 AM
Just noticed that I need to do this on mine but can't see the pics....

Hi mate have you certified your email address in the link sent when you signed up?

AB
1st July 2017, 09:48 AM
Hi mate have you certified your email address in the link sent when you signed up?

Yeah he has, his registration is fine and should see pics?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jack
1st July 2017, 05:44 PM
Just noticed that I need to do this on mine but can't see the pics....

It's a Photobucket issue unfortunately, not the forum

RSendout
3rd July 2017, 03:40 AM
Thanks guys, as said, I have confirmed my email so yeah, must be a photobucket thing 😟

MudRunnerTD
3rd July 2017, 06:43 AM
Thanks guys, as said, I have confirmed my email so yeah, must be a photobucket thing 😟

Cheers mate. Yes very disappointing. This was a
Quality thread that was well referenced. It is going to take some rebuilding damn it.

Plasnart
3rd July 2017, 08:12 AM
Cheers mate. Yes very disappointing. This was a
Quality thread that was well referenced. It is going to take some rebuilding damn it.

You can do mine again daz! Happy to help out there!

GQtdauto
3rd July 2017, 08:20 AM
Hey not so fast if you need a practice run my front left could use a rebuild .

AntonGU
22nd July 2017, 05:31 PM
Ah no, this thread is perfect, just what I was looking for. awesome detailed info but going to struggle without the photos.
Do you still have the photos saved somewhere or are they forever gone?
Cheers

Clunk
22nd July 2017, 05:54 PM
Ah no, this thread is perfect, just what I was looking for. awesome detailed info but going to struggle without the photos.
Do you still have the photos saved somewhere or are they forever gone?
CheersYeah unfortunately all the photos were loaded up on to Photobucket then shared from there,
Photobucket have decided that they are no longer going to allow stored photos to be share to another site without having to pay a rediculous fee for the privilege.
Admin is trying to work on a fix for the issue.

The guys are away on a trip this weekend so it might be a while before getting an answer

AntonGU
22nd July 2017, 06:10 PM
You sure don't get anything for nothin' do you.
All good mate, thanks for the reply

NissanGQ4.2
23rd July 2017, 05:58 PM
Ah no, this thread is perfect, just what I was looking for. awesome detailed info but going to struggle without the photos.
Do you still have the photos saved somewhere or are they forever gone?
Cheers

AntonGU..... you can still access his photo's online, just won't have context...

http://s1023.photobucket.com/user/MudRunnerTD/library/Stripping the GQ/GQ CV rebuild

AntonGU
23rd July 2017, 06:25 PM
Thanks mate that's perfect, looks like they're all in order so I might be able to put it all together in a word document and print it all out.
Cheers

AB
27th September 2017, 01:47 PM
Confirming all of Darrens Photobucket images are now hosted locally!

MudRunnerTD
28th September 2017, 09:06 AM
Thanks AB. This thread get a linked on Facebook all the time so it's great that it's back up again. Cheers for your effort mate

jay see
17th December 2017, 05:01 PM
Looks like this is going to be my next job on the troll.

I've got it booked in for late Jan to do the rear main seal finally pulled my finger out, definitely not doing that at home and have been quoted $375 to do the hub, one side. With one new seal kit wont the other side leak soon. I mean the old seal won't hold as good as the new one therefore leak.

I'm considering doing both sides at home, just not to sure if it's something that I can handle. I've gone as far as replacing a spindle and bearings, how much more is involved and what specialist tools are required if any.

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

Winnie
17th December 2017, 07:06 PM
Looks like this is going to be my next job on the troll.

I've got it booked in for late Jan to do the rear main seal finally pulled my finger out, definitely not doing that at home and have been quoted $375 to do the hub, one side. With one new seal kit wont the other side leak soon. I mean the old seal won't hold as good as the new one therefore leak.

I'm considering doing both sides at home, just not to sure if it's something that I can handle. I've gone as far as replacing a spindle and bearings, how much more is involved and what specialist tools are required if any.

Sent from my A1601 using TapatalkMore than half way there. If you had no issues doing that part then you'd be fine to do the rest.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

MudRunnerTD
17th December 2017, 08:54 PM
Looks like this is going to be my next job on the troll.

I've got it booked in for late Jan to do the rear main seal finally pulled my finger out, definitely not doing that at home and have been quoted $375 to do the hub, one side. With one new seal kit wont the other side leak soon. I mean the old seal won't hold as good as the new one therefore leak.

I'm considering doing both sides at home, just not to sure if it's something that I can handle. I've gone as far as replacing a spindle and bearings, how much more is involved and what specialist tools are required if any.

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

All your questions are answered in the 1st post of the thread. You will be fine mate.

jay see
21st December 2017, 08:12 PM
Should I be replacing bearings as well.
Wheel bearings were changed 40,000 km ago and offset king was less than that. Was just going to repack them.

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

Throbbinhood
22nd December 2017, 09:44 AM
Should I be replacing bearings as well.
Wheel bearings were changed 40,000 km ago and offset king was less than that. Was just going to repack them.

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

I'd replace. Most of the work is in the labour for this job. Replace bearings, repack the old ones and put them in a zip lock bag in the back of the truck as spares.

MudRunnerTD
22nd December 2017, 07:47 PM
Should I be replacing bearings as well.
Wheel bearings were changed 40,000 km ago and offset king was less than that. Was just going to repack them.

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

yeah i would replace all but the Offset King pin bearing. It has not done that much work and they are expensive.

jay see
26th December 2017, 07:29 PM
Don't think this is going to happen.
Time poor. We get back from Tassie on a Thursday night and I'm back to work on Monday morning. While the troll is in for the rear main I thing I'll get both hubs done.

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

Mmario
27th December 2017, 08:06 AM
I need to do this job or the first time now. I bought a Terrain Tamer rebuild kit and now I am preparing for it.
There is one think I do not find locally (Romania - Europe): the 54mm socket.
Considering the tight value is small (almost hand tight) is it possible to fit the bearings properly without using this socket?
Did any of you succeed this job without the 54mm socket?

Mmario
4th January 2018, 07:25 AM
Just performed a hub rebuild and noticed the 54mm socket was not needed in my case. It looks like the Y61 from late 2004 does not have the two 54mm nuts.
I used the Terrain Tamer rebuild kit. I stayed close to the mechanic and learned a lot during this operations. Very happy with the result:

74123

GQtdauto
4th January 2018, 07:38 AM
Can you replace the seals without removing everything else ?

Rossco
4th January 2018, 09:15 AM
Nah need to take everything of as they slip over the swivel housing. You can take the whole assembly off from the king pins tho to just do the swivel hub seals which saves a lot of time. Think in my younger days chopped the seals as a dodey fix. . . Long time ago, was very dodgey back then lol [emoji3]

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Mmario
5th January 2018, 06:00 AM
Of course you need to dismantle everything else so you can reach all the seals. What i meant is my model (Y61 European from late 2004) does not hold the outer bearings with a 54mm nut. The outer bearings are held in place by a nut like the one from image bellow.
In the image bellow you have two special nuts, two washers, four screws and the tool you must use to tighten\loose the special nut.
74136

GQtdauto
5th January 2018, 06:51 AM
Nah need to take everything of as they slip over the swivel housing. You can take the whole assembly off from the king pins tho to just do the swivel hub seals which saves a lot of time. Think in my younger days chopped the seals as a dodey fix. . . Long time ago, was very dodgey back then lol [emoji3]

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Nothing wrong with a dodgy fix Rossco !

MudRunnerTD
5th January 2018, 11:01 AM
Of course you need to dismantle everything else so you can reach all the seals. What i meant is my model (Y61 European from late 2004) does not hold the outer bearings with a 54mm nut. The outer bearings are held in place by a nut like the one from image bellow.
In the image bellow you have two special nuts, two washers, four screws and the tool you must use to tighten\loose the special nut.
74136

Hi mate. Yes the GU patrol uses this system and it is a very good conversion for GQs too. The little grub screws can be a right pain and are a little soft when it's time to undo them but are much better at locking than the bend over washer system was. They are standard across the Y61 range

MudRunnerTD
5th January 2018, 11:04 AM
I need to do this job or the first time now. I bought a Terrain Tamer rebuild kit and now I am preparing for it.
There is one think I do not find locally (Romania - Europe): the 54mm socket.
Considering the tight value is small (almost hand tight) is it possible to fit the bearings properly without using this socket?
Did any of you succeed this job without the 54mm socket?

If you did have the 54mm nuts then can be undone with a hammer and screw driver or cold chisel. Not ideal and getting correct tension is not ideal and the locking nut will not be as affective hence the change to the rings and screws as above.

Rossco
5th January 2018, 12:13 PM
Nothing wrong with a dodgy fix Rossco !Think it fixed it better than it was. . . Old 40 series had crap spewing out everywhere [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

PeeBee
5th January 2018, 08:43 PM
Out of curiosity, when did the round plate lock nut system migrate to the GQ - I have a june 1997 model, and have never sighted this assy. Will be handy to know from a spares perspective at very least.

NissanGQ4.2
5th January 2018, 09:31 PM
Out of curiosity, when did the round plate lock nut system migrate to the GQ - I have a june 1997 model, and have never sighted this assy. Will be handy to know from a spares perspective at very least.

If you look up the part # it says for GQ / GU 1995 on-wards, but my 1992 GQ has this setup and don't think it was done by the previous owners before me, Say maybe it was only done on the TI's up until 1995, but in saying that doesn't explain why yours doesn't being a 97

Duggoo
4th February 2018, 12:12 AM
Hi MudRunner, first of brilliant thread thanks for taking the time to do this. I've read this thing from start to finish but I can't seem to find if you actually did replace the parts from the first pic with the white crosses like the O'ring, Lock washer and snap ring? My kit doesn't have them and am wondering if you can get away without replacing them?
Thanks

MudRunnerTD
4th February 2018, 10:33 AM
Hi MudRunner, first of brilliant thread thanks for taking the time to do this. I've read this thing from start to finish but I can't seem to find if you actually did replace the parts from the first pic with the white crosses like the O'ring, Lock washer and snap ring? My kit doesn't have them and am wondering if you can get away without replacing them?
Thanks

Gday mate. I just had a look at the diagram and you will be fine mate. Snap ring is fine unless you damage it. The l9ck washer is the same, only replace if you have killed it. It just bends over t9 lock the nut so not too concerning. If you bought a good kit like Terrain Tamer it will come with everything you need. If your kit did not come with Wheel Bearings you should invest and do them too.

Good luck. Any dramas yell out mate, happy to help.

KSA
14th July 2018, 09:58 PM
amazing<<<

Bidja
30th November 2018, 10:00 PM
Darren, Well presented mate and would offer something to many of us. The pics are certainly an improvement on those in my trusty old Haynes.

I will not be doing a a complete teardown of knuckle flange assy. A few yrs back replaced wheel bearings and recently changed out rotors and pads. What I will be doing is going in and replacing the inner axle seal, repacking wheel bearing and replacing the hub dust seal.

Looking for a heads up of method to remove the inner axle seal "only", with knuckle flange assy still in place. Have not yet stripped it down and no worries in getting to it. Any comment for inner axle seal removal would help?

Clunk
30th November 2018, 10:38 PM
Darren, Well presented mate and would offer something to many of us. The pics are certainly an improvement on those in my trusty old Haynes.

I will not be doing a a complete teardown of knuckle flange assy. A few yrs back replaced wheel bearings and recently changed out rotors and pads. What I will be doing is going in and replacing the inner axle seal, repacking wheel bearing and replacing the hub dust seal.

Looking for a heads up of method to remove the inner axle seal "only", with knuckle flange assy still in place. Have not yet stripped it down and no worries in getting to it. Any comment for inner axle seal removal would help?Just follow MRs steps up to number 4.... Last time I did my seal, we left the knuckle on. Just undid the king bearing plate so we could also repack those bearings with grease and cleaned out all the diff oil that had leaked in.

Bidja
30th November 2018, 11:37 PM
Just follow MRs steps up to number 4.... Last time I did my seal, we left the knuckle on. Just undid the king bearing plate so we could also repack those bearings with grease and cleaned out all the diff oil that had leaked in.

Sounds like the go, thanks for that.

Bidja
30th November 2018, 11:47 PM
Clunk, I have had the CV/axle out previously to inspect/re grease but did not pop the seal. Can U go in and get in behind seal and hook it toward you?

MudRunnerTD
1st December 2018, 06:26 AM
Clunk, I have had the CV/axle out previously to inspect/re grease but did not pop the seal. Can U go in and get in behind seal and hook it toward you?

Yes but the CV must be taken out first. Once out your good to go. Then the Lip Seal removal tool featured in the first post is your best friend.

Bidja
1st December 2018, 09:58 AM
Yes but the CV must be taken out first. Once out your good to go. Then the Lip Seal removal tool featured in the first post is your best friend.

Yeah do the job nicely, where a screw driver just won't do this one.

Matty C
13th January 2019, 01:39 PM
Thanks so much for this post mud runner! Good to see the comments are still going strong after all these years!
I just finished rebuilding my swivel hubs only on a GUII with manual locking hubs.
Love ya work

Hash1112
14th January 2019, 09:40 PM
Finding this thread very helpful so thank you Mudrunner.

But would you happen to know the part number for the CV brass washer? I cant find it anywhere :(

MudRunnerTD
15th January 2019, 12:51 AM
Finding this thread very helpful so thank you Mudrunner.

But would you happen to know the part number for the CV brass washer? I cant find it anywhere :(

Hi mate, If your struggling i would re-use the one you have mate. they are not really a wear item.

Hash1112
15th January 2019, 07:58 AM
It's damaged pretty bad due to breaking the cv, I'll try to hammer and straighten it may be.
Thanks for the reply bud I really appreciate what you have done in this thread.

Winnie
15th January 2019, 08:04 AM
Finding this thread very helpful so thank you Mudrunner.

But would you happen to know the part number for the CV brass washer? I cant find it anywhere :(Dunno where you are mate but I have a pair of them at home in Gippsland Victoria

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Hash1112
15th January 2019, 12:20 PM
Hey Winnie, thanks mate, I just bought a second hand CV and the bloke gave the washer with it :D

khios
26th February 2019, 11:13 AM
Thanks so very much for this. So easy to follow :)

After doing all this I'm not sure what oil for the front diff. The hub is an auto locking thingo ma Bob... how can ya tell if the diff is lsd or not? Just worried about using the wrong oil :)
Cheers

Fireblade
26th February 2019, 12:20 PM
as far as i know there is not front lsd patrol diffs, only rears. mechanics have told me you can put the same rear lsd oil into the front so thats what i do. i think its more expensive because its lsd but i dont pay for it

blayne
25th March 2019, 07:02 PM
Thanks a billion MD. Your posts helped me rebuild my swivels. I bought my 96 gq with serious diff oil leak comin out swivel. I think i did it right cause its not leakin any more😅

MudRunnerTD
27th March 2019, 08:04 PM
Ok so i took these pics last year and thought i had uploaded them but did not.

Here are dome pics for removing the king pin bearings 2 different ways.

Option 1 needs a bearing removal clamp and a vice.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/284.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/285.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/286.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/287.jpg

Install in vice loosely so it is just sitting in there hanging from the clamp

Punch and hammer.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/288.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/289.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/290.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/291.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/292.jpg

Easy job.

Lmm grease is great for the wheel bearings and CV

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/293.jpg

Option 2 is to use a pair of pointy nose pliers and a flat screw driver. 3 points of contact make light work of it

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/294.jpg

Remove the lip seal under the bearing. Just wreck it and rip it out. This makes space for the pliers

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/295.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/296.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/297.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/298.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/299.jpg

The taper on the pliers will do the work here. Wedge in and work it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/300.jpg

Screw driver from the other side.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/301.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/302.jpg

Wahlah.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/303.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/03/304.jpg




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MudRunnerTD
27th March 2019, 08:13 PM
I have a also embedded the above post into post 5 of this thread where it should be in the process. Hope it helps gent.

GUFLEX
3rd June 2019, 08:04 PM
Cracker write up, helped out heaps!

timmay556
26th June 2019, 09:20 AM
Great write up, thank you MudRunner. One question for the experts, can you test the preload of your kingpins with the removal of the brake disk and rear wiper seals with just the CV and front dust guard in place?

MudRunnerTD
26th June 2019, 11:53 AM
Great write up, thank you MudRunner. One question for the experts, can you test the preload of your kingpins with the removal of the brake disk and rear wiper seals with just the CV and front dust guard in place?

Yes i would think so. To be honest i always just check them by Hand and Feel and have been pretty happy to do it that way.

timmay556
26th June 2019, 12:06 PM
Thanks mate. you are super helpful.
Cheers

GQDOG
1st July 2019, 09:58 AM
Thanks for taking the time of putting this up

Rustyno1
17th August 2019, 08:01 PM
Great info. Thank you champ.
I’m going to be doing the wheel bearings on GU this weekend. I saw a vid by terrain tamer where he tensioned the wheel bearings then he hit the edges of the tyre with a sledge Hamer then checked for movement. Which there was then he tightened them again.
Is that a good method of seating them????
Any ideas would be great. Cheers

Rustyno1
21st August 2019, 07:24 PM
Thanks for the detailed step by step with pics. Much appreciated

First Pooy
31st August 2019, 01:16 PM
Just to add more clarity the copper washer all so needs greasing

Bushrash
17th September 2019, 03:33 PM
Thanks Heaps Mudrunner ,,just made the whole job that much easier!! appreciate it!

Kon
12th November 2019, 09:03 PM
Hi there, awesome detailed write up, been studying this thread & doing my GQ at the same time getting all the necessary info from the write up, 2 thumbs up for taking the time to share MudRunner....

Now there’s a question coming...

79668

The Nissan GQ Patrol manual shows the seal guard(s) being inserted vertically, not horizontally (your pics shows it inserted horizontally), can you plz clarify & confirm?

MudRunnerTD
12th November 2019, 09:38 PM
Hi there, awesome detailed write up, been studying this thread & doing my GQ at the same time getting all the necessary info from the write up, 2 thumbs up for taking the time to share MudRunner....

Now there’s a question coming...

79668

The Nissan GQ Patrol manual shows the seal guard(s) being inserted vertically, not horizontally (your pics shows it inserted horizontally), can you plz clarify & confirm?

That is interesting. Where did you get that pic?? If you refer to the first page you will see.the diagram I use is horizontal. Note also there is a pic clearly showing the back of the swivel hub with them bolted up. The bolt pattern will dictate them anyway. They will only go 1 way.

Kon
12th November 2019, 09:45 PM
That is interesting. Where did you get that pic?? If you refer to the first page you will see.the diagram I use is horizontal. Note also there is a pic clearly showing the back of the swivel hub with them bolted up. The bolt pattern will dictate them anyway. They will only go 1 way.

I believe it’s from the Nissan Patrol GQ/GU manual that Nissan released...

Interesting because mine are also like yours in the picture...., horizontal...

Here is the full page of the screenshot
7967079669

MudRunnerTD
13th November 2019, 09:43 AM
bed in the rear scraper seal and install the cover plate. This can be a little confusing, take your time and it will bed in perfectly.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/84.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/85.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/86.jpg

As you can see in these pics the bolt pattern suggested in the image is clearly not correct either.

As you can see there though, it will only go 1 way.

Kon
13th November 2019, 01:04 PM
As you can see in these pics the bolt pattern suggested in the image is clearly not correct either.

As you can see there though, it will only go 1 way.

Yup my actual GQ is exactly like yours as shown in the above post...

With respects to the scraper seal & supporting ring, do you have the incision facing up or down?

The manual shows it facing down, others have mentioned it should face up, one member has mentioned to me that it should face down to allow any water to be dispersed in case it enters the swivel knuckle area.

What are your thoughts?

P.S.
Which bolt hole do you use for the 1 special/different looking bolt (stopper bolt) at the back for the scraper seal guards?

MudRunnerTD
13th November 2019, 01:57 PM
Yup my actual GQ is exactly like yours as shown in the above post...

With respects to the scraper seal & supporting ring, do you have the incision facing up or down?

The manual shows it facing down, others have mentioned it should face up, one member has mentioned to me that it should face down to allow any water to be dispersed in case it enters the swivel knuckle area.

What are your thoughts?

P.S.
Which bolt hole do you use for the 1 special/different looking bolt (stopper bolt) at the back for the scraper seal guards?

I fit them to the bottom as per the photo above but the swivel hub is sealed and there should be No Water ingress. If water gets in there then your stripping it out anyway for the contaminant.

Kon
13th November 2019, 06:30 PM
I fit them to the bottom as per the photo above but the swivel hub is sealed and there should be No Water ingress. If water gets in there then your stripping it out anyway for the contaminant.

Which bolt hole do you use for the 1 special/different looking bolt (stopper bolt) at the back for the scraper seal guards?

MudRunnerTD
14th November 2019, 05:30 PM
Which bolt hole do you use for the 1 special/different looking bolt (stopper bolt) at the back for the scraper seal guards?Just went out and grabbed some photos for you mate.

View from behind diff on GU

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/97.jpg

The steering stop bolt in on the front side on both sides. Clearly visible in these pics.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/98.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/99.jpg

And my GQ also runs a GU diff with that same setup.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/100.jpg

Sorry I can't confirm the GQ is the same but I'm nearly 100%



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MudRunnerTD
14th November 2019, 05:34 PM
I believe it’s from the Nissan Patrol GQ/GU manual that Nissan released...

Interesting because mine are also like yours in the picture...., horizontal...

Here is the full page of the screenshot
7967079669

Note from this photo of my GU that Nissan changed from Horizontal to Vertical from GQ to GU. Learn something every day.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/101.jpg





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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/102.jpg

Kon
22nd November 2019, 03:46 PM
Note from this photo of my GU that Nissan changed from Horizontal to Vertical from GQ to GU. Learn something every day.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/101.jpg





Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2019/11/102.jpg
Ok, so I thank you for assisting with the above pictures...

Seems like mine are exactly like yours...

I am about to do the rebuild (I’ve got everything just want to get my head around things before I attempt)...

Woozie
25th November 2019, 08:46 PM
Just for clarification what are the greases I need to do the job?

Woozie
25th November 2019, 09:51 PM
What are the parts that I need to mark so they go on the same way next time?

tryan277
20th February 2020, 05:30 PM
Great bit of info here and finally found out why there are two circlip grooves..

Quote
"Note there are 2 groove on the axle. The circlip will fit into that groove. The inside groove is used when you have auto hubs and the groove near the end of the axle is used when you have manual hubs."

I had just pulled the drivers side apart - first time since we have had the vehicle and it has manual hubs and the previous person who pulled it apart had put the circlip in the auto hub groove.

What I would like to know it how do you dismantle the manual hub. The manual shows a circlip...but where?
Pictures attached
80199
80200

MudRunnerTD
20th February 2020, 08:14 PM
Hi mate, why do you want to put the hub down further than that? you should be able to clean it out with a degreaser from there and then repack it without pulling it down further.

tryan277
21st February 2020, 06:22 AM
Thought I was missing something. The exploded diagram at the start of this thread shows some sort of snap ring.
As you can see this one has had water in it at some stage of its life but is still works.
As you say, clean with degreaser (done that) and repack.

Thanks Trevor

Kon
22nd March 2020, 08:04 PM
Hey Mud Runner

Been a while since we last chatted

Believe it or not I’ve finally got around to putting back together my GQ front end rebuild...

1 thing mate, I asked you a little while back about the steering stop bolt...

You mentioned that it’s in the front facing part of the swivel hub scraper seal & you took some pics etc & showed your vehicle for me to see.

Now I’ve looked at the manual on page 1 but shows the locking nut on the rear facing of the swivel hub scraper seal (you can tell which side by the steering arm bolt hole)
I’m confused LOL

Kon
23rd March 2020, 09:32 PM
Thought I was missing something. The exploded diagram at the start of this thread shows some sort of snap ring.
As you can see this one has had water in it at some stage of its life but is still works.
As you say, clean with degreaser (done that) and repack.

Thanks Trevor
I think it’s just a breakdown of the hub mate, I don’t think there’s any reason to pull them apart as I doubt (& I’m only guessing) there are any serviceable parts inside the hub.

Pour degreaser inside the hub, let it sit over night (or for a long little while at least), put your hand over the top of it (degreaser still full) & shake it vigorously to clean everything out... dump the degreaser from the hub, spray some CRC or WD40 so it can penetrate the crevices nicely, dump that out too, add some grease to it & on the CV joint too - I don’t think you need to pack it crazy like a bearing (but I could be wrong about that too)

Kon
23rd March 2020, 09:41 PM
Just for clarification what are the greases I need to do the job?
High temperature bearing grease on all your wheel bearings
https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/home/products/car/greases.html#tab_spheerol-htb-2

Molybdenum type grease for everything else included the birfield joint (the big knuckle bearing thing on the CV joint/axle) & the upper n lower kingpin bearings
https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/home/products/car/greases.html#tab_spheerol-lmm-grease

Kon
29th March 2020, 09:52 PM
MudRunnerTD

Is diff oil meant to leak from kingpins if loosened?

Kon
29th March 2020, 11:02 PM
MudRunnerTD

Is diff oil meant to leak from kingpins if loosened?

Never mind... apparently not...

MudRunnerTD
30th March 2020, 11:29 AM
Never mind... apparently not...

Yeah that is a NO!!

Kon
8th April 2020, 08:59 PM
Yeah that is a NO!!

Just done my entire front end, still getting death wobbles & it’s driving me nuts...

Anyhow thought I’d remove the shims just in case they were the cause, diff oil pouring out...

Back to the drawing board.....

Found these babies tho.... just waiting on them.
https://www.superiorengineering.com.au/4x4-driveline/diff-rebuild-kits/trail-safe-nissan-patrol-inner-axle-seals-26722?filter=128%2C355%2CNissan-Patrol-GQ90on-1990-1997--WagonLWBDiesel4.2%2C2.8

MB TD42
8th April 2020, 11:00 PM
Great bit of info here and finally found out why there are two circlip grooves..

Quote
"Note there are 2 groove on the axle. The circlip will fit into that groove. The inside groove is used when you have auto hubs and the groove near the end of the axle is used when you have manual hubs."

I had just pulled the drivers side apart - first time since we have had the vehicle and it has manual hubs and the previous person who pulled it apart had put the circlip in the auto hub groove.

What I would like to know it how do you dismantle the manual hub. The manual shows a circlip...but where?
Pictures attached
80199
80200You will need to lift the 6 dowels out...they are a pain...then you can rotate the yoke out. Fun job...

We're all ere coz we ain't all there.

tryan277
9th April 2020, 07:00 AM
You will need to lift the 6 dowels out...they are a pain...then you can rotate the yoke out. Fun job...

We're all ere coz we ain't all there.
Thanks for that but mudski had also pointed me in the right direction
See here
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?8424-What-did-you-do-to-your-Patrol-today!/page943
I was lucky a few sharp blows on some timber and the pins came out
Cheers Trevor

mmarchadesch
20th April 2020, 10:23 AM
Greeting nissanpatrol.com.au. I’m Mario, from the Philippines. Thanks for approving my application to join.
Just want to say thank you to MudRunnerTD for this thread. I just did my front end. It was a fun project for this quarantine time (here in our part of the world). I haven’t had a chance to drive it yet, but will do soon. Hope things go well.
Thanks again.

joshman
25th May 2020, 12:19 PM
Just done my entire front end, still getting death wobbles & it’s driving me nuts...

Anyhow thought I’d remove the shims just in case they were the cause, diff oil pouring out...

Back to the drawing board.....

Found these babies tho.... just waiting on them.
https://www.superiorengineering.com.au/4x4-driveline/diff-rebuild-kits/trail-safe-nissan-patrol-inner-axle-seals-26722?filter=128%2C355%2CNissan-Patrol-GQ90on-1990-1997--WagonLWBDiesel4.2%2C2.8

Have you put the Superior axle seal in yet? how did they go?

gr2y61
2nd September 2020, 07:11 AM
Hi guys,

Just did the passenger side swivel hub gaskets seals and new kingpin bearings. The hub seals and wheel bearings looked pretty nice and straight so repacked with grease and, while I was there, replaced the brake rotor and pads. That's on my RHD UK, 2003 GR Y61 (or GU Y61). Followed these gold mine instructions and everything was as easy as saying hello. So big thanks to the author of this thread :). Hopefully will do the drivers side tomorrow and the rear discs and pad next week end.

Now, when I removed the kingpins, I messed up at some point and lost the bottom adjusting shim. Dunno if I'd thrown it in the bin with some greasy paper towels or what but I just couldn't find it, and it drove me crazy. So I ended up with only one left... So I decided to fit both kingpins without the shims. Obviously, will have to fit the drivers side without those shims for "good" balance. Other than that, I guess I did everything "right". Question is: will that affect in anyway the driving as there will be no shims after the full rebuild?

Thanks guys for bringing some light here!

MudRunnerTD
2nd September 2020, 08:20 AM
Hi guys,

Just did the passenger side swivel hub gaskets seals and new kingpin bearings. The hub seals and wheel bearings looked pretty nice and straight so repacked with grease and, while I was there, replaced the brake rotor and pads. That's on my RHD UK, 2003 GR Y61 (or GU Y61). Followed these gold mine instructions and everything was as easy as saying hello. So big thanks to the author of this thread :). Hopefully will do the drivers side tomorrow and the rear discs and pad next week end.

Now, when I removed the kingpins, I messed up at some point and lost the bottom adjusting shim. Dunno if I'd thrown it in the bin with some greasy paper towels or what but I just couldn't find it, and it drove me crazy. So I ended up with only one left... So I decided to fit both kingpins without the shims. Obviously, will have to fit the drivers side without those shims for "good" balance. Other than that, I guess I did everything "right". Question is: will that affect in anyway the driving as there will be no shims after the full rebuild?

Thanks guys for bringing some light here!

Leave them as you found them if you can. But you are putting in new king pin bearings so the shims required could well be different now anyway.

I would leave the others as you find them and after you have it back together just ensure the wheel turns without restriction. The possibility is that removing the shim may make the King pin bearing tighter clamped down so the steering will be heavier.

Some take out a shim if the get the dreaded wheel wobble to some success.

Hope that helps.

gr2y61
3rd September 2020, 10:22 AM
I'm half way of rebuilding the drivers side, managed to remove everything but was harder though. Looks like this side was never been touched before. Snapped the abs sensor bolt but managed to remove the sensor without damage. Will need to remove the thread bit left in the knuckle. The swivel hub itself is nasty inside with lots of grease and muddy mix.
Lots of work ahead tomorrow.

In the mean time, while I finished fitting the nearside I turned the troll back to get the offside near the kerb (working in front of me house lol). But I could already feel a huge improvement while turning the steering wheel and that is with the passenger side wheel bearing completely loose. When I raised the wheel off the road and checked the wheel, there was a big play when moving the wheel top to bottom. So now parts are removed and now need to get rid of that rust and make it again again nice and clean.

Will update to tell how things went after a test drive on the highway and see if it's wobble free without shims. Cheers

MudRunnerTD
18th April 2021, 01:33 PM
So I thought I would add these pics to this thread. Currently doing front wheel bearings only on the GUIV. I bought the bearings from the 4WD Shed off ebay. They came with a seal too.

The back seal gets destroyed when removing so was keen to get them too. Well this is the seal that turned up.....

It seems that at some point some smart bloke have merged to 2 seals needed into 1!!

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/04/255.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/04/256.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/04/257.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2021/04/258.jpg

The new seal may well be 2 seals conveniently pressed into each other but I'm not going to risk splitting them for the sake of confirming its 1 or 2. This is an upgrade.

Also... those bloody M4 screws would have to be the Softest metal I have ever found in a screw. I will swap them out for some M4 Allen key jobs only because I have some. M4 x 10mm is what you need and a Phillips Head would be great.


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trimixdiver
26th September 2021, 01:41 PM
Hey MudRunnerTD anymore updates on this rebuild Im looking to go ahead have all the gear ready to go:)

MudRunnerTD
26th September 2021, 05:39 PM
Hey MudRunnerTD anymore updates on this rebuild Im looking to go ahead have all the gear ready to go:)

Nah mate. Good to go. I have added updates and embedded them where they should be in the thread. Everything you need to know is here mate. Any dramas I'm here most days.

trimixdiver
7th October 2021, 08:52 PM
Nah mate. Good to go. I have added updates and embedded them where they should be in the thread. Everything you need to know is here mate. Any dramas I'm here most days.

Was told to use Molly grease for axle and king pin bearings since its all together inside the hub and use High Temp for wheels bearings if this is correct that means to use 2 different grease so did you use your grease Gadget on both switched out grease in between?

MudRunnerTD
7th October 2021, 09:14 PM
Was told to use Molly grease for axle and king pin bearings since its all together inside the hub and use High Temp for wheels bearings if this is correct that means to use 2 different grease so did you use your grease Gadget on both switched out grease in between?

Hi mate, I would use the Hi Temp grease for the wheel bearings and King Pin bearings. Pack all those using thrbgrease packer. Use the moly grease for the CV and pack this by hand.

trimixdiver
8th October 2021, 05:33 PM
Ok cool exactly what I did, also would you chance both side if only one side was leaking, I bought a full kit thinking I should keep as a spare .

MudRunnerTD
8th October 2021, 09:31 PM
Ok cool exactly what I did, also would you chance both side if only one side was leaking, I bought a full kit thinking I should keep as a spare .

I would do both sides. You are effectively rebuilding the swivel hubs and there will be a noticeable difference when driving.

reeves.milner
15th January 2023, 06:58 AM
That thing is a beaut