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Rokkitt
13th February 2011, 06:19 PM
Hi All,

To allow extended stops I run two spiral wound auxillaries - they are small buy very heavy. I would like to place them under the bonnet but I am concerned it will be too much weight for the guard.
The car also has a turbo so heat is also a concern.
Tempted to put them in the back close to fridge but it would be better to save the space and get them under the bonnet...any ideas or suggestions from you guys?
Its a Ford Maverick 4.2 diesel.

Been busy with car this weekend - new bullbar, rocksliders, fitted the winch and spotties - will post some photos tomorrow.

Regards
Rokkitt

YNOT
13th February 2011, 07:28 PM
Do you have an auxialliary fuel tank in front of the back axle on the drivers side?

Tony

the evil twin
13th February 2011, 08:05 PM
How about 1 under bonnet and 1 in the back.

In my Q I had an Aux battery in the footwell of the 3rd row seat drivers side. Fitted great and because of the rake on the rear seat back I lost hardly any useable space.

Put the other one under the bonnet

tkn
14th February 2011, 12:10 PM
Hi All,

To allow extended stops I run two spiral wound auxillaries - they are small buy very heavy. I would like to place them under the bonnet but I am concerned it will be too much weight for the guard.
The car also has a turbo so heat is also a concern.
Tempted to put them in the back close to fridge

If you mount one in a well built cradle (e.g. ARB or similar) there should little stress on the guard.
The cradle should be mounted as near the front of the engine bay as possible - so cool air passes over the battery and disperses (a) fumes; and (b) any heat.
The other battery should be as close to the fridge as possible BUT make sure you have at least 6 square millimetre cables connecting the fridge to the nearest battery and at least the same size cables connecting the battery in the engine bay to the battery nearest the fridge AND good quality fuses in each positive cable.

Any "dry" joint (i.e. a joint that does not have a near 0 Ohm resistence) will create heat and lots of it - often enough to melt things. So it is best to solder each joint in the cable. Then make sure the slides (or whatever) on the fuses are clean and are near 0 Ohm connections when fitted.

Keep in mind that mounting a battery inside the cab does present a safety hazard e.g. fumes, spilt acid, etc. However, these may be reduced by mounting that battery in a battery box, which might also make it portable for locating the fridge in a tent, etc.

Rokkitt
15th February 2011, 12:51 PM
Hi,

I don't have a sub tank yet but this is planned for the future so under the car is out.
I like the idea of keeping the two aux batteries together and after removing the panel from inside the guard in the back of the car there's actyually quite a bit of room - this has got me thinking along the lines of both batteries in the back half embedded in the guard.
My only concern is the mention of gases - it was my understanding the spiral wound batteries are sealed units so no fumes.

Thanks
Rokkitt

the evil twin
15th February 2011, 11:06 PM
I've seen pics of a truck that someone else modd'd up who took the trim off the Pax side and made up a battery box rear of the wheel arch and water tank forward.

The inside face ended up flush along the wheel arch so very little space lost and I think there were raised edges on the top surface to about window level for storeage. Can't remember if the jack stayed or was moved

Damned if I can think were the pic's were now... might have been Patrol4x4 but can't find it. I do remember it looked pretty schmicko but I have had drawer systems ever since so moved on.

Rokkitt
16th February 2011, 02:02 PM
Trying to find it now, sure I have seen it too.


I've seen pics of a truck that someone else modd'd up who took the trim off the Pax side and made up a battery box rear of the wheel arch and water tank forward.

The inside face ended up flush along the wheel arch so very little space lost and I think there were raised edges on the top surface to about window level for storeage. Can't remember if the jack stayed or was moved

Damned if I can think were the pic's were now... might have been Patrol4x4 but can't find it. I do remember it looked pretty schmicko but I have had drawer systems ever since so moved on.

MudRunnerTD
16th February 2011, 05:12 PM
I reckon Jet6 had it in his build but was a pic of someone else's as he was looking to do it too.

If you buy a Spiral battery or any sealed AGM or GEL battery they are safe for carrying in the car. they produce no harmful fumes and you can mount them laying down on their side if necessary.

I would be looking at mounting them in the footwell behind the back seat in front of the cargo barrier and drawers if you have them. No problem there.

I read your question to indicate that you had already bought the batteries so you looking to mount 2 x Blue Spirals is that right?

I have also seen one mounted to the back of the engine bay running parallel to the fire wall 90 degrees to the secondary battery directly behind it. A little bit of work but you could move what is in your way there and mount it to the fire wall and brace back to the guard. There is enough room there.

Rokkitt
16th February 2011, 05:22 PM
Jet6 heh, I'll go check him out.
Just took the spiral wound exides out of my Land Rover - I had them fitted under the passenger seat. Yes they are the blue exides.
They cost heaps so don't want to ruin them by mounting them close to the turbo, actually thinking my compressor could go under there instead..;) in place of the aux battery under the bonnet.
I am looking at putting them in that footwell but it would be a good way to use up otherwise unused space in the rear guards, maybe even one each side.

Also I have a Traxide SC80 battery controller - should I mount it under the bonnet or in the back away from dust and moisture?? traxide guys said it would be fine under the bonnet but if it were in the back with the auxillaries then that is one less thing cluttering up under the bonnet.

Thanks again guys.
Rokkitt


I reckon Jet6 had it in his build but was a pic of someone else's as he was looking to do it too.

If you buy a Spiral battery or any sealed AGM or GEL battery they are safe for carrying in the car. they produce no harmful fumes and you can mount them laying down on their side if necessary.

I would be looking at mounting them in the footwell behind the back seat in front of the cargo barrier and drawers if you have them. No problem there.

I read your question to indicate that you had already bought the batteries so you looking to mount 2 x Blue Spirals is that right?

I have also seen one mounted to the back of the engine bay running parallel to the fire wall 90 degrees to the secondary battery directly behind it. A little bit of work but you could move what is in your way there and mount it to the fire wall and brace back to the guard. There is enough room there.

MudRunnerTD
16th February 2011, 05:35 PM
Hey mate i got all this info on your Traxide controller and some decent wiring diagrams below from this site.

http://www.traxide.com.au/trax1sc80_2.html

SC80 DUAL CIRCUIT AUXILIARY BATTERY CHARGER

Recommended price, Supply only $125 (AUST)
Price Includes GST
The SC80 is available in 12 volt ( and 24 volt on request ) The SC80's first and most important objective is to protect the vehicle's main battery against being discharged bellow a point at which the battery would not be able to start the vehicle.

SINGLE 80 AMP CIRCUIT. The SC80 has a PRIMARY and a SECONDARY circuit. These circuits can be joined together and operated as a single 80 amp auxiliary battery charger, connecting the main battery to 1 auxiliary battery.

DUAL 40 AMP CIRCUITS The SC80 can be used to charge 2 auxiliary batteries via separate 40 amp circuits, so if there is one auxiliary battery under the bonnet of a vehicle and another in a caravan being towed by the vehicle, the SC80 will charge both batteries while the voltage at the main battery is at a high enough level. After the vehicles motor is stopped, the power can be shared by all the batteries to extend the operating time of the auxiliary batteries. But once the voltage at the main battery drops to the cut out level, all the batteries will be isolated from each other.

NO ADDITIONAL RELAYS OR SOLENOIDS ARE NEEDED, TO INSTALL AND OPERATE THE SC80.


DUAL VOLTAGE CIRCUITS The SC80 can also be used to control circuits of different voltages. You may have a 24 volt vehicle with an SC80-24 fitted. The PRIMARY circuit could be wired between the main battery and a step down voltage converter and the secondary circuit could be wired between a 12 volt auxiliary battery and some accessories. When the voltage at the 24 volt battery drops to the cut out level, the SC80-24 will isolate the step down voltage converter from the 24 volt battery and isolate the accessories from the 12 volt auxiliary battery, thus protecting both batteries systems at the same time.


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/02/11.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/02/1.gif

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/02/2.gif

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/02/12.jpg

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/02/13.jpg

Rokkitt
16th February 2011, 08:51 PM
Yes the Traxide unit is simply brilliant, can't rave about it enough...:)
I use a circuit something between the first and second diagram, but I use two marine switches which allow me to manually connect all three batteries should the need arise. Have an 80 litre fridge/freezer which can really chew some power. I was just wondering if anyone had a valid suggestion on whether to put it in the back with the auxillary batteries - like I say the Traxide rep (who is extremely helpful) said it would be fine under the bonnet so thats probably where it will live. Then I will place a 100amp circuit breaker at each end of a battery cable ran up to the back and treat the two auxillaries as a single battery (even while typing I am indecisive...lol).
I am into electrics/electronics - fell into IT after doing a electronics based course so I love playing around with the wiring.
Been out measuring tonight so I can weld a tray up for the back of the car - I'll post pics once done.

Thanks for your help.
Rokkitt

Rokkitt
16th February 2011, 09:47 PM
Got it....

patrol4x4.com/forum/diy-modifications-accessories-40/rear-quarter-battery-mount-52596/

NOTE: DIRECT LINKS HAVE BEEN REMOVED DUE TO PATROL4X4's VIRUS PROBLEMS, ENTERING THE ABOVE LINK INTO YOUR BROWSER YOU DO AT YOUR OWN RISK

KIND REGARDS

FORUM MANAGEMENT

MudRunnerTD
17th February 2011, 12:50 AM
Here is the pic from the above link. It looks like he has gone the chop of the inner guard (one way street) and cant be "un-done". I would have thought that if your prepared to mount on top of the wheel arch turn the battery around and run it parallel with the car and you could probably mount 2 in line over one guard easy on a steel shelf bolted to the floor and spanning over that guard.


http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb185/VinceGU05/09072010393.jpg

MudRunnerTD
17th February 2011, 01:00 AM
Yes the Traxide unit is simply brilliant, can't rave about it enough...:)
I was just wondering if anyone had a valid suggestion on whether to put it in the back with the auxillary batteries - like I say the Traxide rep (who is extremely helpful) said it would be fine under the bonnet so thats probably where it will live. Then I will place a 100amp circuit breaker at each end of a battery cable ran up to the back and treat the two auxillaries as a single battery (even while typing I am indecisive...lol).
I am into electrics/electronics - fell into IT after doing a electronics based course so I love playing around with the wiring.
Been out measuring tonight so I can weld a tray up for the back of the car - I'll post pics once done.

Thanks for your help.
Rokkitt

Hey Rokkitt,

in the pic below it says on the top diagram "Note this device is water resistant and NOT water proof"

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2011/02/1.gif

If you like to hose out your engine bay if you drive in the mud a bit then it might be better in the back mate. Also, the wiring diagram above shows a 2 wire (Blue & Grey) pre-installed splitter in the unit that allows you to split for independent charging. Running a single large diameter to the back then mounting this with your batteries will allow you to place one breaker in the bay and the unit in the back the fuse it out as per the design with very little voltage drop.