mudnut's 'Old Trol' build thread.

[mudnut]

Finally, I've got most of the the parts for a 2" lift, thank you very much to a gentleman named Jonathon. The rear springs on an ARB quote I had were the same, but I have noticed that the front springs have a different number (2975 Spring to 50 kg) to the one quoted for mine (2976 spring to 51 110kg). BA's Patrol is a TB42 with a steel bar and winch. Mine is only an RB30 with an alloy bar with a low mount winch with steel cable and approximately a 10 kilo (10mm steel) cradle. Will I have to get front springs that suit or will I be able to fit BA's donated springs without any problems? Also, I have been allowed to use a hoist to fit the lift, will I need to compress the springs to fit, or will they just slip straight in? Once again, thanks, BA. I love this place!!

[Parksy]

The springs will just fall in, no spring compressor needed. Just disconnect shocks and sway bar links and you're good to go!

[mudnut]

I was hoping you would say that:)

[Bloodyaussie]

Those springs will work perfect in you car mate... it should sit better than my car did as I am very heavy!!!!

Good luck!!

[mudnut]

I was also hoping you would say that:) The bloke that has the hoist has also got a 10 ton press, so I will hopefully get my radius arm bushes replaced. The cross member on my supercheap 10 ton press has bent like spagetti.

[Bloodyaussie]

With a hoist the job will take no time at all.... really easy and quick and so much safer.

Remember mate plenty of pics !!!!

[mudnut]

Without your reminder, I would have forgot to take the camera too.

[mudnut]

I didn't get a lot of in-shop pictures, but this bloke's workshop is magnificent. A box of xxxx gold and the job was done. I still have to do the radius arm bushes, but hey presto: the Old Trol is now ready to keep up with the monster trucks in my club, hopefully:) It was interesting to note that the shocks were the same lengths as the stuffed ones I pulled out. The Old Trol sits on the road all right as the tyres have moved over a mere few millimetres, and the steering wheel angle is easy to get used to. I still have to extend the brake bias bracket too.

[Bloodyaussie]

All of a sudden the tyres look all so small..... glad I could help you out mate.

[mudnut]

I will have to re-name it 'The Old Roller Skate'. Thanks again BA.:bowdown:

[mudnut]

Took the Old Trol for a belt around the paddocks, and was impressed how the set up handles the rough as guts tracks I use as fire breaks. Where I used to slow to about 10-15 kph, I can cruise through at 20-25 with out burying the recovery points.

[Bloodyaussie]

Yeah Nisshead knows all about burying a stock GQ.... I looked in my mirror to see Kris bury his front plow into a foot of earth!!!!! that night while very drunk we proceeded to make changes to Kris's bull bar with a hack saw!!!

[mudnut]

Has anyone bought and fitted these sliders from SA: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ROCK-SLIDERS-GQ-Y60-PATROL-WAGON-EXTRA-HEAVY-DUTY-ROCKSLIDERS-SIDE-STEPS-/231205981664?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d4f34de0&_uhb=1

[mudnut]

Slung a few bucks to a bloke that has a really nice lathe, and got him to machine up a drift to push out and replace radius arm bushes. Once I repair my press I'll get the job done. I'm also wondering if the castor correction radius arms from superior engineering have the same size bushes as standard arms?

[lhurley]

Slung a few bucks to bloke that has a really nice lathe, and got him to machine up a drift to push out and replace radius arm bushes. Once I repair my press I'll get the job done. I'm also wondering if the castor correction radius arms from superior engineering have the same size bushes as standard arms?

As far as i know superior only use genuine bushes, other then the crap caster correction polly things

[mudnut]

I can only imagine the forces applied to the off set poly would destroy them relatively quickly. After driving on the highway to Warnambool I can feel the front end following the contours much more and the steering is a little toey, a trade off to the lift and I can live with it, but I might hunt around for some second hand castor correction radius arms.

[mudnut]

One side radius arm bushes done. Even with the machined drift, the darn things wanted to kick off at an angle. It took a lot of swearing and tries to get them to start straight. The cheap press I have didn't help, so I will re-engineer it with tighter tolerances before I even think about the other side.

[mudnut]

With slow data, I can't get the search function to work. Could someone please tell me the correct Long Life spark plugs with the same heat range to use, other than the NGK BKR6E?

[Bloodyaussie]

This is the message george sent me..

If the motor uses a little bit of oil he could go hotter to go a better burn so a BKR5E otherwise there is platnum plugs but dunno if he wants to spend close to $20 a plug. In the vl's and skylines they use the bkr6e but they're gapped to 1.1mm

[mudnut]

Thanks, BA my motor barely uses oil. The platinum plugs are excellent. Our van has had the same plugs since we've had it, and they're only just starting to erode.

[mudnut]

The passenger side suspension noise when braking and turning that was diagnosed by a mechanic as the radius arm bushes is still there, after I changed them out. I think it is the body mounts as I was able to move the front one quite easily with a piece of wood. I will try fitting a 'washer' made from a bit of old tyre under it tomorrow, and see if the noise stops.

[mudnut]

The head, inlet manifold and timing belt are back on. I got the head gasket set, head machined, exhaust manifold machined, radiator core repaired, new filler neck fitted for $416 all up. So that isn't too bad. The EGR pipe was found to have a split in it as well. Was talking to my mate about the gear box and transfer case I still have sitting in the shed. He said he will check them over if I split them open. Apparently, the timing was too advanced, which caused detonation as he said the exhaust manifold colour indicated it had ran very hot. I remember I had to back off the timing the motor was pinging a few weeks after I paid for the timing belt change out.

[mudnut]

The engine was running on four cylinders when I started it. Found the inlet manifold to be the culprit (sprayed a bit of "start ya bastard" to find the vacuum leak).The manifold must be a little warped and the new gasket wasn't thick enough to seal it. Long story short, new gasket with some copper silicon and Bob's your uncle. Set the spark plug gaps and adjusted the timing. The engine runs sweet as. Will take it to get dyno soon.

[mudnut]

The exhaust flange is also warped, so has spat the new gasket out. Have been quoted $140 for cut and fit new thicker flange and gasket. $595 supply and fit a set of Redback extractors. Is that a reasonable price, and are the Redback systems any good?

[mudnut]

This is a build going nowhere fast. I had to pull the water pump off as it was dribbling coolant from the bleed hole. It was the weakest link in the cooling system after the head gasket and radiator were done. GRRRRRRR.Bang Head What ever happened to water Pumps that unbolted without having to take a timing belt off. On the plus side, I can now remove the radiator and strip the front of the engine down in under an hour now.:hpfredgeorge1:

[mudnut]

OK, I am back to where I was a month or two ago. I had the engine dyno tuned today, (after the head gasket change out). The mighty RB30 has gained 3.5 KW more than when it was dynoed last year. Woo Hoo, I have a massive 73.5 kWs of raw power on tap :P I have ordered four chassis rubbers for the radius arms, and will endeavour to install them this week, (weather permitting).

[Bloodyaussie]

Thats not far off my figures for thr 4.2efi.

[threedogs]

down right weapon,Muddy. best you get your cooling system right this
time of year so its spot on when the hot weather arrives.
I take it you cleaned the radiator?

[mudnut]

Yeah, I had a mate do the radiator, when he machined the head. The temp sits on about 1/3 of the gauge and dropped slightly again, since the water pump was recoed, last week. This engine has so much potential to get some noteworthy figures with some mods, (EFI and Turbo) but finances won't permit it. Also, I like the simplicity of the set up. It's strange that Mr Nissan didn't even bother to put fuel injection on, as both dunny doors and skylines came out with it.

[mudnut]

I bought a 32mm impact socket, four 12mm nuts, and made a 'flange spanner' to split open the transfer case. The trick is to undo both flange nuts while the holding the rear output flange, because the front flange is smaller and uses a 30mm nut.

The spanner is made of 3mm plate, and is welded to a metre long piece of scrap pipe. I still struggled to loosen the nuts, even with another piece of pipe to extend the breaker bar, but the job is done. Now, I have to take the gearbox and case to get inspected.

[mudnut]

After a quick inspection of the gear train my mate reckons it won't be too expensive to rebuild the gearbox. He is going to strip it down and have a proper look. I will be most peeved if there wasn't anything wrong with the box as the one I got fitted is still making funny noises and 2nd gear is hard to select while the box is cold.

[mudnut]

G,day, all. The fumes in the cab have returned, with a vengeance. My wheezy Old Trol has popped its exhaust under a heat shield. I have checked out a few sytems and have found these:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-HEADERS-EXTRACTORS-GQ-Y60-1989-TO-1997-RB30-MOTOR-/251596557023?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9452cadf

The outlet is a whopping 4'' pipe.

My questions are: Is there a good affordable system, from tip-to-tail available.

: If I got these cheaper ones, is it easy for me to graft it onto my standard system, until I can upgrade? Or would I need a specialist to do that?

Please keep in mind, that my funds are limited.

[mudnut]

I love talking to myself. Anyone??

[Bloodyaussie]

Yes the good ol factory systems are shit and with all those heat shields make it so hard to work on...

I would go afresh and most of those systems are much a muchness .

Are you on fart face?? always deals to be had and couriers like Hunter express pretty affordable ?

Also http://www.truckit.net/ are a good service for cheap.

[mudnut]

Thanks, BA. I do like to buy locally, I was quoted almost $550 for a set extractors or headers, only. So I will have to look further afield.

[Bloodyaussie]

Mate thats crazy money and shop prices of course.

I have used the network of this forum to pick up parts for me before so I could organise freight in my own time.

There is a deal to be had out there somewhere.

[mudnut]

Yeah I will have to spend a bit of time looking. An exhaust bandage will have to do atm. I wonder what sort of power ain I could expect, withy a hi flow muffler?

[threedogs]

Genie have a sale on ATM might be worth a look
just checked its 15% off if you go Genie PM me for the code number
on this offer

[mudnut]

I had a look at their stock, TD, and I didn't see an RB3O system listed.

[mudnut]

While I am asking questions, when fitting an after market system, do you need to fit heat shields ?

[Bloodyaussie]

No dont bother..

[threedogs]

you are going up in size are you ?

[mudnut]

I just need to get a good, solid system, and I have seen, first hand, how a good set of extractors can let the engine breathe. I understand that having too big a system can actually slow the gas flow.

[lhurley]

I just need to get a good, solid system, and I have seen, first hand, how a good set of extractors can let the engine breathe. I understand that having too big a system can actually slow the gas flow.

Half right, it slows it because there isn't enough pressure to push it through at speed. Just think about it as if it were a hose, water coming out the end of the hose flows well but not with any real pressure. Put a nozzle on it and it has plenty of pressure cause the outlet is smaller

[BigRAWesty]

Slap a 2.5" system on it mate.
I'm sure we can graft extractors into the original system untill funds permit the rest.
I can mod while you fix my dash..

[mudnut]

Sounds like a plan. I will rip off a few heat shields and see exactly where the hole is.

[mudnut]

As a matter of interest, I have been reading up on fitting EFI to the Old Trol, with the end objective of fitting a turbo. I have read about Single Point EFI on early Falcons. Apparently the system with the injector situated after the butterfly is way better.

I was wondering if it would be easier to fit that, instead of having to get a new EFI head, loom, fuel pump etc. Any thoughts?

[Bloodyaussie]

I think this is right up Georges alley .... he even had or has gear I think for it?? but I have been known time and time again to be so very wrong !!!

[BigRAWesty]

Imo fit the fuel injected system with injection into cylinder.
The single point was very uneven with fuel distribution and 1 & 6 received less than 3 & 4.
The multi point is more efficient also with better power output.
But price is always an issue.

[mudnut]

The carby has the same problem. Multi point is way better, Kallen. My 4wd Corolla 4 banger had that with extractors, and it went like a cut cat.

I am also looking at ease of installation and overall cost, as well simplicity.

I recently met a young bloke who has acquired a twin turbo set up with all the required plumbing. He was going to convert his stock RB30 to EFI and leave it as a duel fuel system with the turbos.

As the vehicle was only going to be used as a weekend warrior and for towing, we convinced him to just run LPG via a Gas Research Carby as that would be way easier, and he can tune it for maximum horsepower.

I have read that the carby can starve for fuel on steep hills. I haven't experienced it yet, and don't intend to get stuck halfway up a huge sand dune with no way of getting back down.

[Alitis007]

As a matter of interest, I have been reading up on fitting EFI to the Old Trol, with the end objective of fitting a turbo. I have read about Single Point EFI on early Falcons. Apparently the system with the injector situated after the butterfly is way better.

I was wondering if it would be easier to fit that, instead of having to get a new EFI head, loom, fuel pump etc. Any thoughts?
The heads on carby, efi and turbo efi are the same, the cams are different obviously for each application but the head will need to be removed to install some form of decomp device like a thicker head gasket ( I used a cometic 1.9mm thick head gasket which was the minimum gap I needed for a un machined head ). The only difference between the looms between the turbo and na was the turbo had a knock sensor near the oilfilter, the na loom should have the wire there but you'll just need to get a plug and sensor (in my vl I used one from an r33 skyline). The distributor is different between carby and efi also. There is a difference between the plenum chambers on the na and turbo motors being that the efi has larger runners and makes the motor a few extra ponies with the turbo but unless you run straight lpg or take the gamble and wait to get epa'd your best bet would be to run the correct manifold for turbo. Turbo injectors are also larger, to feed them you'd fit a high volume high pressure intank fuel pump or a surge tank and external fuel pumps. The other main difference is the ecu's, the turbo has a second mother board internally for the knock sensor. The good thing is auto computers can be used with manual cars but not vice versa.

Personally I would find the genuine parts for the conversion and not to try and re invent the wheel by trying to addapt a center point injection system. I would use vl turbo parts if I was going to keep the car easy to maintane or keep the rb30 block and fit and efi system from an rb25det r33 skyline depending on what you can afford or how far you want to go with adding power and efficiency, obviously a DOCH motor is far superior to a SOCH motor but like I said it all comes down to cost



I think this is right up Georges alley .... he even had or has gear I think for it?? but I have been known time and time again to be so very wrong !!!

Yeah I do have most of the gear ( mainly the harder parts ) for efi and the turbo conversions.

[mudnut]

Thanks 007. That is a very detailed post as to why I should go skyline or vl. I was wondering if it was an easy thing, because of the V8 efi units that directly replace Carbies. It will have to be another thing to add to the list of future mods.

[mudnut]

Does anybody know where I can purchase the dished washers for the panhard bar?


Edit: I got one from the wreckers

[mudnut]

I found that when a former owner of my Old Trol cut a huge hole to fit in an eliptical pioneer speaker and has weakened the door structure.

I have built a brace that spans the gap, behind the speaker, but the hinge is still moving when the door is closed.


I plan to weld tabs to both hinges and bolt on a brace to the spare wheel holes.


Are the hinges on a Q made of mild steel and therefore easy to weld?

If I stop the door from flexing will any extra force be applied to the rear pillar and cause other problems?

[Bloodyaussie]

I thought they were hardened steel??

I cant be sure though.

[BigRAWesty]

I'm pretty sure the reinforcement inside the door is already mounted to hinges. It runs along the the skin.

[mudnut]

Yeah, but the extra flex created by the hole seems to have led to metal fatigue.

[threedogs]

Might be pressed steel case hardened, I would think they would be weldable
If in doubt try it with a file
They may even be cast, thus the file test

@ MN you going to turbo the "Q" ?

[mudnut]

Nah, mate. I was happy with the guinea pig's performance at the Beachport / Robe meetup. I have decided a snorkel is to be the next mod, when and if funds permit it.

[mudnut]

How long are standard GU panhard rods? Would they drag the axles back to the centre after the 2 inch lift?

[mudnut]

Bump...........

[threedogs]

did you get any washers ,??? I'm going to TJM tomorrow so I see what they have lying around lol

[Bloodyaussie]

did you get any washers ,??? I'm going to TJM tomorrow so I see what they have lying around lol

You have a GU John measure yours for him???

I thought they were all the same length but not sure at all.

[threedogs]

TJM Coburg are shifting to Mattews Ave Opposite Ess. airport entrance .
Hoping there will be heaps of GQ gear hidden in the back corners,
Anyway if its there I hope its going cheap, None of the guys have GQs
they are mainly T boys

[mudnut]

Yeah, I got the washer from Readies and have drilled a hole through the stripped section of the panhard stud, cut a slot in the nut, and have fitted a cotter pin to ensure the panhard stays put.

[threedogs]

Cool I'll still see whats available for GQs

[mudnut]

The fusible links are becoming a hard item to obtain, TD.

[mudnut]

It now sounds as if the power steering pump bearing is on its way out. Has any one ever stripped a pump and reconditioned it?

[Bloodyaussie]

Jesus mate you must be so hard on your car driving rally style everywhere. ..lol

[mudnut]

It has had a few swims in deep muddy water, so I think its all catching up with me now. I was hoping it is possible to take the pulley and circlip off, flip the seal off the bearing and re-grease it until I can get some dough to replace the pump.

[mudnut]

Finally fitted headers and I am happy with the results . Now waiting for a refund for the defective engine pipe, so I can get it tuned on the dyno and see what horsepower it has gained.

[threedogs]

2 things did you fix the power steering pump and is your snorkle fitted?

[mudnut]

No and no. The PS pump noise disappeared, so I ain't gunna fix what ain't broke. The snorkel is beginning to be a pipe dream. Pardon the pun. These are the pics I put up the other day,
of the shelf under the dash , the dashmat and the headers.

[threedogs]

nice work as usual, What about some 100mm exhaust pipe a 90 and a 45 rubber bend for a snorkel
Cheap as chips ,still look good , powder coat the pipe,
I think the lot for less than $100-$150
Surely someone has done this.??

[mudnut]

Yeah, there are a few build threads, and I do like the look the steel snorkel, but I wouldn't want a steel pipe flailing around and entering the cab in an accident. I haven't done much wheeling of late, any way, so it can wait.

[threedogs]

Nah you're too paranoid no one has ever died from being hit by a snorkle.LOL

[mudnut]

To help water proofing the engine, along with the dipstick clip, the timing belt cover hose nipple and the air breathers, I have also raised the Thermal Vacuum Valve inlet and added a filter to it.

[mudnut]

The Passenger side coil tower is bent, so I have ordered a Superior Engineering Coil Brace Kit (no body lift) and will attempt to fit it when it turns up.

[threedogs]

The Passenger side coil tower is bent, so I have ordered a Superior Engineering Coil Brace Kit (no body lift) and will attempt to fit it when it turns up.

Long time between posts there buddy lol

[mudnut]

I could of posted that I updated the anti theft system a month ago:P

[mudnut]

The Coil Tower strengthening kit arrived today. A tough, looking bit of kit. Gotta go and speak to a mate about using his hoist and a bit of muscle to install it.

[Throbbinhood]

To help water proofing the engine, along with the dipstick clip, the timing belt cover hose nipple and the air breathers, I have also raised the Thermal Vacuum Valve inlet and added a filter to it.

Can you waterproof my engine :)

[mudnut]

Sounds like a road trip is on the cards. Gotta get hold of an air horn pump so I can pressurise the timing belt cover and distributor. The Fuel Miser dissy cap already has a moulded in nipple so that will be easy.

[Throbbinhood]

Sounds like a road trip is on the cards. Gotta get hold of an air horn pump

I've already got one plumbed up to the dizzy. Never used it though, always been worried about the dizzy being too well sealed and blowing the plug leads off haha. Also, I need to mount the air horn somewhere better, back of the engine bay probably won't be much good to me. Just a shame they're so noisy.

[threedogs]

The Coil Tower strengthening kit arrived today. A tough, looking bit of kit. Gotta go and speak to a mate about using his hoist and a bit of muscle to install it.

here a pic of one already welded in hope it helps

[mudnut]

I've already got one plumbed up to the dizzy. Never used it though, always been worried about the dizzy being too well sealed and blowing the plug leads off haha. Also, I need to mount the air horn somewhere better, back of the engine bay probably won't be much good to me. Just a shame they're so noisy.

I am thinking of installing it under the dash, or maybe using the ARB compressor with a regulator turned right down. I have extended the compressor inlet up to to a quarter panel trim so it wont suck water.

[mudnut]

here a pic of one already welded in hope it helps

Thanks, TD. I got the bolt on type from Superior Engineering.

[mudnut]

What a mongrel job. The first hurdle has fitting the brace to the top of the coil tower. The LH tower was warped and the holes didn't line up so I had to drill a few out.

The arm that attaches to the rear cross member uses a U bolt. I recommend trimming the threads a bit before fitting it as trying to do the nuts up takes bloody ages.

The brace arm has bent while trying to tighten the adjusting bolt. I don't know if that will cause it to flex or not.

The RH tower has a few small bolts holding the brake hoses and the tabs holding these were broken but some multigrips clamped them, just!

As the tower was bent up I was able to force the brace in without damaging the brake and fuel lines, by the barest of margins.

The rear arm is gonna be almost impossible to tighten unless I remove the fuel hoses.

I thought I could fit the braces in a couple of hours, but It will be a 12 hour job. The main criticism is that the adjusting bolts supplied are too short by at least 15mm..

[mudnut]

A 12 hour job that is gunna end up being an 18 hour job. I straightened the LH side by undoing all the bolts on the arm and using a hefty G clamp and 12mm thick piece of steel across the bent piece. With the clamp in place, I set the adjustment and torqued the three bolts FT then removed the clamp.

I tackled the RH side and found it easier to tighten the U bolt nuts up, with the arm dangling down then lifting it up and bolting it to the brace, which meant I only had to torque U bolt nuts.

After I had positioned the springs and the supplied urethane spacers, I struggled to get the bastards to stay in position. Even with Mrs mudsane operating the trolley jack, I found it extremely hard to get the springs to sit over the urethane. I eventually gave up, removed the offending bits and used a hoof trimmer to cut a bevel on the rubber. After a few goes I finally got the springs in and the shockers and panhard on.

I decided to check everything and noticed that the two centre bolts of the brace were long enough to interfere with the brake and fuel lines.

I had to drop everything, remove the RH spring and centre bolts. I cut 8-9mm off the bolts, replaced them and fitted the springs and suspension again.

[timbar]

Sounds like a hard days work !!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mudnut]

I have fitted the snorkel and am waiting for the paint to dry before fitting the inner plastic and flare. I can't wait to do a long trip to see if I get better mileage.

[mudnut]

After a bit of drama, I have a new snorkel. I have explained what happened here: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?38570-Check-Your-Snorkel

I now have to make a plug of some sort for the pre-heat inlet of the filter housing. I sprayed a bit of Start Ya Bastard around any possible places that could let in water.

The engine revs increased a when I sprayed bit near the filter to dust collector pipe and also the pre-heat inlet and pre-heat diaphragm.

A bit of silicon around the bottom of the diaphragm housing has fixed that bit, but I will need to make the plug removeable as the carby struggles a bit in the colder months.

[mudnut]

To further enhance water proofing the engine intake, I have bought a brass reducer that uses a brass 1" plug.

Using the copper-based silicon, I have glued the reducer into the Pre-heat elbow on the filter housing.

This allows me to seal off the pre-heat flap instead of having to engineer some sort of seal on the flap itself.

I have also put a ball bearing inside the diaphragm vacuum hose so it doesn't lift the flap and cause a constriction of the air flow.

Now I can still run the pre-heat in winter, and seal it up for off road trips and it looks stock and road worthy.

The first picture is of the driving lights I was given.

In the engine bay, the water proof box next to the battery is for the headlight relays. There is a small black box behind the battery for the driving light relays and fuses.

[mudnut]

Only a small job but it has made life that little bit easier in the cabin. I have built a larger storage box under the radio. I used an old stereo's housing in which I glue a piece of wood to act as a lip at the front, then glued carpet inside. It is around 3-4 cm deeper, 1 1/2 cm higher and around 3-4 cm wider than the pissy little plastic original.The bottom of the box is also at a deeper angle than it used to be. Combined with the lip, it will take a lot more for the contents to slip out.
It looks a little bit crappy as there is only some black tape on the front. I will paint it black, one day.

[mudski]

Your an ideas man Craig.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk

[threedogs]

Only a small job but it has made life that little bit easier in the cabin. I have built a larger storage box under the radio. I used an old stereo's housing in which I glue a piece of wood to act as a lip at the front, then glued carpet inside. It is around 3-4 cm deeper, 1 1/2 cm higher and around 3-4 cm wider than the pissy little plastic original.The bottom of the box is also at a deeper angle than it used to be. Combined with the lip, it will take a lot more for the contents to slip out.
It looks a little bit crappy as there is only some black tape on the front. I will paint it black, one day.

Did you get around to fitting an air horn pump up to the dizzy, you'll need
a needle valve or similar to adjust the flow.
Pretty sure I have one here I can post to you, basically brand new.

[mudnut]

No, John, have had other stuff that needed attending to. I have found an old air regulator in my shed , so it mght be able to be fitted. But thanks anyway, mate.

[Throbbinhood]

Wow, your engine bay is so clean!

[mudnut]

Wow, your engine bay is so clean!

I don't know why. The bay has only been washed once in the 3-4 years I've had the Old Trol, and that was when I had to take it through the Surrey River. One thing about having a clean engine, is that fluid leaks are easily diagnosed.

[mudnut]

I have been checking and studying the fuel breather system, with the ultimate goal of fitting an auxilary fuel tank. I have found that the breather filter attached to the tank is connected directly to the canister in the engine bay.

Does anyone know if this is standard for a '94 model or has it been modified?

[mudnut]

Took a step back and removed the reducer and plug from the pre-heat system as I found that it was using more fuel. I will have to manufacture a some sort of plug that will fit properly.

I have finished an engine stand with large enough wheels to handle the rough floors of my sheds. It is made of about 90% recycled material. Now, I'll buy some decent 12mm bolts for it and also make a temporary clean room so I can strip an engine I have bought from a wrecker.

[mudnut]

After many complaints from passengers, especially in the third row, regarding the harshness of the ride with the 2" lift. I have fitted the standard springs and new rear shocks. It drives like a totally different beast, smooth and stable. I think the problem is the springs were meant for a TB42 with roof rack, sliders winch and rear drawers. The RB30 block and gearbox are a fair bit lighter than the TB.

I will keep the lift, because I still want to set the Old Trol up as a tourer.

[mudnut]

Made a vinyl sleeve to slip over the D/S visor to prevent sun damage to my ear.

Simple to use: slide it back to fill the gap left by the visor. Slide it forward and clip up the visor as per normal.

[mudski]

Your an ideas man Craig. Good stuff!


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[Plasnart]

Made a vinyl sleeve to slip over the D/S visor to prevent sun damage to my ear.

Simple to use: slide it back to fill the gap left by the visor. Slide it forward and clip up the visor as per normal.

Funny, I drove a hyundai terrracan today and noticed it had these factory fitted. First time I've seen that and commented how good an idea that was, then you post up yours on same day! Nice work mate.

[mudnut]

And here, I thought I was being original.

[Plasnart]

And here, I thought I was being original.

Was a hire car this terracan, and had been driving it for nearly two weeks and never noticed it. Today (well actually yesterday now) driving along my passenger noticed it and yep there they were on both visors. Gave us something to discuss through stark boring central QLD coalfield country. Apart from the grouse burgers we had in Emerald that was the highlight of our day haha!

[mudnut]

Thanks to Mudski posting pics with his winch build today, I was reminded to order some Dyneema and a fairlead, so I can service my winch and fit the rope.

I will weld a steel eye on the winch drum to secure the rope, and have another go at fixing the brake. I will also be able to move the number plate down onto a spring loaded hinged mount that covers the fairlead too.

[mudnut]

Took the old steel cable off, and replaced it with some dyneema. Forgot how bloody heavy the steel cable is! Fitted the fairlead and used the winch to take the water tank off of its pad. A section of the concrete skirt cracked and allowed some rodents to tunnel under the tank.

Using the dyneema is so much easier on the spine, and the winch doesn't run on as much either.

[mudnut]

Finally got the engine swap done, due to the crankshaft being wrecked by a loose harmonic balancer bolt.

Had the engine builder tune it today. Not bad for an RB30 with a stock carby.

[mudnut]

I pulled the winch out today and welded a steel loop from the shoulder to the drum.

So how do I attach the rope? Do I just thread the rope through and tie a big knot, or do I splice an eye around the loop?

[PeeBee]

A knot will suffice. The anchoring is via the compression of the rope and friction with the wraps around the drum. If you cast your mind back to the steel cable, its a simple crimp, and has zero load capability.

[mudnut]

No worries. After watching how the lug can be stripped from the rope during a winch comparison, I've wanted make that Impossible to occur. This morning, I had the rope fully extended to one layer on the drum, to rip some over hanging branches off a dead tree. I was very luck not to have the lug rip out.

This little Aldi winch made the Old Trol (in 4L with the hand brake reefed on as tight as I could get it) skip across the paddock when doing some of the thicker branches.

Now, to get the brake mechanism to function.

[mudnut]

PeeBee At 2:20 minutes you can see the rope pulling the lug out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBp9fVsD_I4

[PeeBee]

Craig, the instructions should read something along the lines of having a minimum number of wraps on the drum before putting load on the cable, something like 4-6 wraps as a guide and this is a minimum. The lug will come away from the rope because its not a structural element and never designed to take load. The PTO winches and I think a lot of the high mount winch guys use the loop and knot anchor, but its not to allow the winch to be able to use more cable, it simply a better termination for the end of the rope.

[mudnut]

I understand that, Phil. my winch still had 12 plus wraps today, (no instructions came with the rope) but the winch on the vid had multiple layers and still let go. I actually thought the first branch would break a lot easier than it did. All the others were done with a hell of a lot more rope on the drum, and that is when the vehicle was towed across the paddock.

[PeeBee]

I understand that, Phil. my winch still had 12 plus wraps today, (no instructions came with the rope) but the winch on the vid had multiple layers and still let go. I actually thought the first branch would break a lot easier than it did. All the others were done with a hell of a lot more rope on the drum, and that is when the vehicle was towed across the paddock.

If the load is put onto the rope when the wraps are not tight right from the start, the force will act straight on the lug as the compression and friction elements are not in play. I reckon your 12 wraps is a good safe proposition. I try not to go less than 8 and thats with load on the rope from the start. I have tried a pull without the line being loaded up and the cable pulled straight out of the lug - put me in a very difficult position as I was stuck on a steep pinch at the time , then without a winch. I didn't watch the video, as seem to recall seeing it ages ago. Are you saying the vehicle actually was pulled towards the tree? There is nothing wrong with the Aldi winch in my mind. It will do the job and thats all you need - right?

Craig, had a quick watch, and all I could assume is that the rope is so slippery and the coefficient of friction so low between the rope and the drum that the clamping action simply didn't take place on those winches - which is really surprising , no friction so the lug takes the pull - food for thought and I might just ensure a greater number of wraps that what i have used previously

[mudnut]

Yep it did pull the patrol toward the tree. Apart from having water ingress, (which I found after buying it), the only trouble I've had with the winch is the brake system has never worked. I've tried a few times to get it going. But since the unit was second hand I think the previous owner had fiddled with it and had refitted it incorrectly.

[PeeBee]

Yep it did pull the patrol toward the tree. Apart from having water ingress, (which I found after buying it), the only trouble I've had with the winch is the brake system has never worked. I've tried a few times to get it going. But since the unit was second hand I think the previous owner had fiddled with it and had refitted it incorrectly.

Is your brake the style with the expanding spring inside the drum? I have overhauled 4 of these chinese winches myself. I also had a 'dod ear' break, and was able to source a replacement from TJM and also Milemarker in the US.

[mudnut]

Its a funny arrangement. I'll get some pics tomorrow.

[Figjam]

Here is a link to a Red-winch simple and cheap solution https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eokeJokyX9Q

[PeeBee]

Here is a link to a Red-winch simple and cheap solution https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eokeJokyX9Q

Clever, simple, like it, thanks

[mudnut]

I reassembled the brake and it acted against my hand as if it was being used when twisted in one direction. The winch is back in so will try it tomorrow.

[Rossco]

Personally think a welded tag / loop and knot is the simplest and best solution. A figure 8 stopper knot should be able to wind out rope all the way no problems and start winching. Synthetic rope is more slippery on the drum compared to cable and the standard crimp and rivet fittings are pretty piss poor and always let you down when you need it most lol. .

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[mudnut]

I made the loop out of an 8mm bolt, so it is plenty strong enough.

[10G]

PeeBee At 2:20 minutes you can see the rope pulling the lug out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBp9fVsD_I4

This is interesting, not seen that happen before. I always wind my rope back in under some degree of load/tension, mainly as I've always thought that the taught rope will be less susceptible to water & grit ingress while just sitting month after month on the drum. But after seeing that video, having the rope tight on the drum should also stop that problem of the initial force from a winch travelling all the way back through the rope and possibly to the point of connection with the drum.

[mudnut]

Another thing I learned about dyneema is to go pull it back and forth across the fairlead as you wind the rope in. This stops it from sinking deep into the layers and getting jammed in there.

[mudnut]

How do I remove the clutch fork, when, or before splitting the gearbox? (I've only changed out a few engines with autos)

[Rossco]

Hey Muddy sorry to hear about the motor what a bloody bugga. . Pull the motor out first then remove clutch fork if required, if not all good [emoji106] Good luck with it all. .

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[mudnut]

Mate, it is looking better than what the inspection camera showed me. On start up, the engine made bad clacking noises and was missing, badly. On pulling the spark plugs on 1 and 2, the gaps were squashed together. The camera showed debris and what I thought was a big dent in the bore, plus vertical scoring. With help from Mrs mudsane and mudnutette, we lifted the head off (with help from a hand winch as well).

I found some battered pieces of sheetmetal about 2-3 long x 1cm wide that have been folded and pounded to a few mm thick. There are a few small dings in the piston crowns. It turns out, that the big dent in the bore was a reflection of the battered metal pieces sitting on the piston. The vertical lines have no depth to them.

I have have vacuumed out the debris. The pistons seem to all come up out of the bore to the same height. The valves on 1 and 2 have many small dings on them.

I need a professional to check every thing to see if all the valves and cam are still serviceable. I just hope that no metal has gotten down between the rings.

At the very least, it will need the head machined, a new head gasket, oil change and filter, coolant and a timing belt.

[mudski]

Got my fingers crossed for you Craig.


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[mudnut]

Good news, Folks! The engine builder came over to have a look at the damage. He was happy that the rods were OK. He told me to check the valves by doing the following: rotate the cam until the valves were closed on each cylinder in turn. Fill the ports with petrol and watch for leakage.

All were watertight, except the inlet on #1 cylinder, which wept ever so slightly, which is still good to go.

I am waiting on a head gasket, and will fit it ASAP. Now I just gotta remember where everything goes :)

[mudski]

That’s great mate.


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[threedogs]

Hi Craig while the heads off you could clean up the inlet abd outlet ports.
Just rempve any casting marks ans smoooth them out.
Good luck with it mate TD

[mudnut]

Thanks, TD. The engine builder port and polished the head, then used his vacuum test bench for maximum flow.

[mudski]

I think it’s time you hung a Garret hair dryer of the side of that engine while it’s apart mate. While your there and big ass blow off valve too! [emoji3]


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[rusty_nail]

Sorry but I have it on good authority he doesn't need it to leave you td boys in the dust lol. Would be off chops though

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[MB]

Too true Nicco, Craigstar as we all know is a slow & steady Legendary achiever helping all wherever possible [emoji106][emoji106]
Top donation bid too, PM again with address this time for our half way meetup delivery of bar work Muddy Mate!



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[mudnut]

I need help, please, to fit a new E locker. If you have experience with fitting the lockers, I will drive to where ever needed in Vic or SA to get it done and will pay for your time. Thank you for your replies.

[10G]

I need help, please, to fit a new E locker. If you have experience with fitting the lockers, I will drive to where ever needed in Vic or SA to get it done and will pay for your time. Thank you for your replies.

Which part are you having trouble with Craig???

Have you tried Trident at the Mount (I know nothing about them)? Heywood Auto (I do know about them), i've been told, have fitted several ARB lockers, I know they're different, but it can be done locally. They send the centres to Portland to get done to them what ever it is that gets done and they install it.

I THINK there is a Harrop mob in Ballarat??

[mudnut]

Which part are you having trouble with Craig???

Have you tried Trident at the Mount (I know nothing about them)? Heywood Auto (I do know about them), i've been told, have fitted several ARB lockers, I know they're different, but it can be done locally. They send the centres to Portland to get done to them what ever it is that gets done and they install it.

I THINK there is a Harrop mob in Ballarat??

It is just the locker mech I am needing to get done, but I have done a front axle seal before and would prefer someone else to do the heavy stuff and I can assist.

As for the locals, all mechanics I asked have not recommended anyone to fit a locker.


i

[10G]

I'll PM you.

[mudnut]

Still on the lookout for help.

[Cuppa]

It is just the locker mech I am needing to get done, but I have done a front axle seal before and would prefer someone else to do the heavy stuff and I can assist.

As for the locals, all mechanics I asked have not recommended anyone to fit a locker.


i

When I got mine fitted I was advised against using the local mob who supply & fit them in Ballarat (TJM?) - fairly or not I don't know - there was talk of apprentices doing a job which needs to be shimmed accurately & a noisy diff resulting.
I took mine to Harrop in Melbourne. Dropped it off in the morning, they gave me a lift to the train station, I swanned around Melbourne for the day, & they came & collected me from the train station. Service was excellent plus they threw in a few freebies. Cost was the same as I would have had to pay in Ballarat, & I was very happy to know that the job was being done by the folk best to do it. They even phoned me a few days later to check I was happy with the job. That was what? 6 or 7 years ago? Have never had a single problem with the locker, just works when I need it. I recall there was a chap in Ballarat ( Cameron - was on this forum) had one fitted to his car - loved his e-locker but the diff always whined. He had a local workshop install it (not the mob supply them). I think he had a Pajero.

[mudnut]

In the midst of dismantling the grill to replace the headlight. All the screws were rusted into place, so I had to pull the grill away from the body, to access the four bolts which hold the whole light assembly in. One bastard broke, so now that has to dealt with. Looking at the vehicle before attempting to replace the sealed beam, I didn't see how rusted the fasteners and mountings were. I will pull both sides out, clean, repaint them and fit stainless steel fasteners. I am so glad I didn't have to try and change a headlight on the side of the road or at a campsite.

[mudnut]

Got 16 " Rims and KO2s on order. The Rugged Terrains are at 66000 ks, and are showing signs of age. Still got plenty of tread, though. Unfortunately the don't make them any more, or I would have got them again. Bloody good tyres, especially on sand.

[mudnut]

Fitted the rims and KO2s. Gotta say, they are a lot quieter at 100kph than the old tyres. I had the Rugged terrains fitted in 2011. They aren't made any more but I got 69000ks out of them, and if I had of driven more in that time, I probably would have got up 80000 plus. Having a good look at them, the rubber was starting to go hard and there are fine cracks in the valleys between the treads. Also got a good deal with a $150 factory rebate. Every little bit helps.

[mudski]

Yeah my KM2's are probably 7 years old now still with 60% tread on them. I think the rubber has gone off on these and she's quite sketchy now in the wet. I was thinking about the KO's next as I don't think I need a mud terrain tyre. But then I am thinking maybe go for something with a soft compound, as they might stay usable for longer due to the lack of k's my Patrol does. The last two years its done a whisker over 12 thousand.3

What size tyres did you go for Craig?

[mudnut]

Yeah my KM2's are probably 7 years old now still with 60% tread on them. I think the rubber has gone off on these and she's quite sketchy now in the wet. I was thinking about the KO's next as I don't think I need a mud terrain tyre. But then I am thinking maybe go for something with a soft compound, as they might stay usable for longer due to the lack of k's my Patrol does. The last two years its done a whisker over 12 thousand.3

What size tyres did you go for Craig?

Because it is basically a tow tug, now, I opted for 265 (31) x 10 and upgraded to 16'' Trak 2 steel. Apparently its easier to get 16" tyres in the country than the old 15". I had a mixture of rims too, so its good to have a full set.

[BrazilianY60]

This is maybe a global thing. It is easier and cheaper to find 16s and 17s around here than a good 15.

I credit that to the fact that no 4x4 truck is sold here with 15" wheels anymore, so the support for such size is going down.