Time for new panels...

[mudski]

Well I have just recently added another 105AH AGM to my camper, not fitted yet, I bought a Redarc BCDC1225 25A DC to DC charger with inbuilt MPPT Reg I now need to get a new panel as my current solar setup won't work with the 1225. Stuff it! I'm doing it!
So My current Solar setup is 3 x 60W panels @ 180W. So I thought not to go any lower that if I can help it.
Been scouring fleabay for a local dealer to pickup from, so if theres any issues I don't need to post it back.

So here is what I have come up with...

1. Bosch 175W Mono panel, single panel and no reg @ $250
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-175W-12V-Monocrystal-Module-SOLAR-PANEL-CARAVAN-CAMPING-CHARGING-battery-/271158918491?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item3f2254bd5b

2. Bosch 255W Mono panel, single panel and no reg @ $315 (Friggin' huge though!)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-Cells-250W-255W-12V-Monocrystal-SOLAR-PANEL-Charge-Caravan-AGM-Battery-/281070967451?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item4171229a9b

3. Bosch 170W Mono panels, Dual fold up 85W panels, but with reg and wiring @ $370
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-12V-170W-Folding-Solar-Portable-Panel-Kit-Monocrystalline-Module-4-Battery-/271163643703?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item3f229cd737

4. Rich Solar 200W Mono panel, single panel and no reg @$215
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271337730841&ssPageName=ADME:X:eRTM:AU:1123

Ideally I would like the dual fold setup for ease of storage but I haven't yet found them without the reg and wiring. The Bosch panels are obviously the better, but the Rich solar 200W panel has a very attractive price tag. But size is an issue, 200W panels are huge for camping. Even the single 175W Bosch panel is big... Plus from what I have been reading, Rich Solar are still pretty good.

This is where the experts step in...

Thanks.

[Cuppa]

I'm happy with the Rich panel I have mounted above the cab roof.

Unless you intend to permanently mount your solar, I suggest you will be much happier with smaller panels than any you are looking at. Lugging panels that size around, whether or not they are folding types, will quickly become a chore you can do without. A couple of smaller panels are easy enough to connect together & far easier to lift & store. When you are packing & unpacking every day it makes a big difference.

Don't worry too much about whether the panels have a regulator stuck on them. Those sort of regulators are cheap & nasty items, wrongly positioned & best discarded or bypassed. (Just disconnect the wires from attached reg to junction box & use your own heavier gauge wires from junction box to your bcdc mounted close to the batteries). They add very little to the cost of what are well priced panels anyway.

With two more manageable sized panels, just have a short cable on the back of each from it's junction box to an anderson plug & make another 2 into 1 anderson cable to plug into a single anderson on the solar end of the cable.

[mudski]

I hear ya mate. Problem is so far all the dual panel kits I have found all come with reg and wiring.
Even looking at buying two smaller panels separate. They're not much smaller than the Bosch 175W panel.

[threedogs]

why the big AH requirements, and yes it will be a PITB chasing the sun all day with a larger panel

[Cuppa]

I hear ya mate. Problem is so far all the dual panel kits I have found all come with reg and wiring.

I added a bit to my post above.

[mudski]

Thanks. I just removed the wiring that was there from the trailer and mounted the other battery...Removed the mains charger, so I figure its best to wire in the 1225 first, then just add the positive and negative output wires from the mains charger to one of the batteries? So then I have a mains charger too.
Just need to go get a change over relay and then figure out what the hell I'm doing. :)
The issue I see is where to mount the relay. As it needs an ignition wire. So if I mounted the relay in the trailer I need to run a wire from the ignition and into the trailer. Issues with that is finding a way so this wire can be plugged and unplugged from car to trailer.
The other way is mounting the relay in the car but then the panels need to connect to the relay. So then that means the car needs to be connected to the trailer whilst at camp. Which I don't want to do.

There is obviously a way around both these issues but how?

[threedogs]

that would be the white wire on a 7 core trailer wire wouldn't it

[mudski]

that would be the white wire on a 7 core trailer wire wouldn't it

Thats earth...

[the evil twin]

snip...
The issue I see is where to mount the relay. As it needs an ignition wire. So if I mounted the relay in the trailer I need to run a wire from the ignition and into the trailer. Issues with that is finding a way so this wire can be plugged and unplugged from car to trailer.


Why not fit the Relay to the camper and wire the changeover relay sense wire (+ve of the coil) to the input of BCDC.

When no voltage is present at the BCDC Alternator input the relay will be "relaxed" and directing Mains powered 12 volts to teh batteries

When voltage is present it will be "energised" and therefore knows it is hooked up to the Car and switch.

P.S. Cuppas right. Big Panels are an absolute PIA, been there, done that, couldn't wait to not do that anymore

[mudski]

Here is the three diagrams in the book.

1. 12v setup...
42831

2. Solar setup...

42833

3. And 12v with solar...

42834

The only way around NOT having the relay in the cab or even in the trailer I see is to run a manual switch in the trailer for the blue wire to manually connect to the red wire. So when you hit the switch, picture 2 becomes picture 1.

Am I assuming this is correct?

[mudski]

Why not fit the Relay to the camper and wire the changeover relay sense wire (+ve of the coil) to the input of BCDC.

When no voltage is present at the BCDC Alternator input the relay will be "relaxed" and directing Mains powered 12 volts to teh batteries

When voltage is present it will be "energised" and therefore knows it is hooked up to the Car and switch.

P.S. Cuppas right. Big Panels are an absolute PIA, been there, done that, couldn't wait to not do that anymore

Mate, there's nothing evil about you!!!! More so an angel... Great so I will go get a change over relay now and will be back asking more questions....

[the evil twin]

Mate, there's nothing evil about you!!!! More so an angel... Great so I will go get a change over relay now and will be back asking more questions....

Hold onto the hugs until we make sure it works... them eggs are dangerous critters and can attack your face without warning

[Bloodyaussie]

What are you doing with your old panels???? he he :biggrin:

[mudski]

What are you doing with your old panels???? he he :biggrin:

Gonna convert them into a bi-fold camp table.

[mudski]

Why not fit the Relay to the camper and wire the changeover relay sense wire (+ve of the coil) to the input of BCDC.

When no voltage is present at the BCDC Alternator input the relay will be "relaxed" and directing Mains powered 12 volts to teh batteries

When voltage is present it will be "energised" and therefore knows it is hooked up to the Car and switch.

P.S. Cuppas right. Big Panels are an absolute PIA, been there, done that, couldn't wait to not do that anymore

Just to clarify on the bold section. A bit confused here. The mains charger I have removed, for now. As I want to get the 1225 sorted. So the mains 12V powered could be solar power?
Then after the 1225 is in. I assume to reinstall the mains charger I would just wire up the output wires to one of the batteries. This won't hard the dc-dc charger at all?

[the evil twin]

Just to clarify on the bold section. A bit confused here. The mains charger I have removed, for now. As I want to get the 1225 sorted. So the mains 12V powered could be solar power?
Then after the 1225 is in. I assume to reinstall the mains charger I would just wire up the output wires to one of the batteries. This won't hard the dc-dc charger at all?

Now you've confused me... what do you want your "changeover relay" to switch between?

I pictured one thing but actually now I think you are after...
Pin 30 Batteries
Pin 87 Mains Charger +ve Output
Pin87A BCDC output
Pin 86 Mains Charger +ve Output
Pin 85 Earth

When no 12 volts is available from the Mains Charger the relay is relaxed and the BCDC supplies charge (regardless of whether it is Solar or Vehicle input to the BCDC)

When there is 12 volts from the mains charger the relay energises and the Mains Charger supplies the charging voltage and teh now open 87A contact isolates the BCDC from the Mains Charger

[mudski]

Now you've confused me... what do you want your "changeover relay" to switch between?
I assume it need the relay to switch between solar and dc-dc charging. As per instructions it says I need one for when having both Solar and dc-dc wired in...No mains charging.
42839


I pictured one thing but actually now I think you are after...
Pin 30 Batteries
Pin 87 Mains Charger +ve Output
Pin87A BCDC output
Pin 86 Mains Charger +ve Output
Pin 85 Earth

When no 12 volts is available from the Mains Charger the relay is relaxed and the BCDC supplies charge (regardless of whether it is Solar or Vehicle input to the BCDC)

When there is 12 volts from the mains charger the relay energises and the Mains Charger supplies the charging voltage and teh now open 87A contact isolates the BCDC from the Mains Charger

Yep. I understand that bit. As I physically have two charging units, the mains charger that came with the trailer and now the dc-dc charger.
Thinking out aloud here...remember I have removed the mains charger for now.
I was to hook up the dc-dc charger as per instructions with the relay connected somehow. Then to re-install the mains charger by simply attaching the two output positive and negative wires to one of the batteries to charge both whilst at home.
But I am worried if I wire it in this way I will damaged the dc-dc charger.

[mudski]

Now you've confused me... what do you want your "changeover relay" to switch between?

I pictured one thing but actually now I think you are after...
Pin 30 Batteries
Pin 87 Mains Charger +ve Output
Pin87A BCDC output
Pin 86 Mains Charger +ve Output
Pin 85 Earth

When no 12 volts is available from the Mains Charger the relay is relaxed and the BCDC supplies charge (regardless of whether it is Solar or Vehicle input to the BCDC)

When there is 12 volts from the mains charger the relay energises and the Mains Charger supplies the charging voltage and teh now open 87A contact isolates the BCDC from the Mains Charger

Man this takes a while for me to get around. That should work so the main charger and BCDC charger switch over but then I need to do it again for the solar and dc-dc charger on the BCDC to switch over.
Running one C/O relay to switch between the two chargers and then another to switch between solar and dc-dc.
I'm so close.


If I do as the diagram says, I need to get power to the switching pin #86 on the relay. The only two ways I see it happening is a manual switch, seeking power from the camper batteries, or, running a switching wire from the car. Like the diagram says. But thats not feasible.

[Cuppa]

The changeover relay has nothing to do with a mains charger!

It's purpose is to make the switching between alternator & solar automatic. Basically when ignition is turned on the relay connects the alternator to the bcdc, & when ignition is turned off the relay connects the solar to the bcdc. Unlike some setups the bcdc chargers use either/or solar & alternator, not both together.

The changeover relay could be replaced with a manual switch provided your memory is good enough to always switch over when setting up & breaking camp. The automatic setup is very convenient when fixed panels are used. Install & forget.

[mudski]

The changeover relay has nothing to do with a mains charger!

It's purpose is to make the switching between alternator & solar automatic. Basically when ignition is turned on the relay connects the alternator to the bcdc, & when ignition is turned off the relay connects the solar to the bcdc. Unlike some setups the bcdc chargers use either/or solar & alternator, not both together.

The changeover relay could be replaced with a manual switch provided your memory is good enough to always switch over when setting up & breaking camp. The automatic setup is very convenient when fixed panels are used. Install & forget.
Sorry Cuppa, I see you are frustrated. Try being me! But ET has explained how to use a change over relay for the two chargers. DC-DC and the mains charger.

But to your explanation. How do I get the switching wire from the ignition (as per instruction says) to the relay on the trailer?


The automatic setup is very convenient when fixed panels are used. Install & forget.
Fixed as in permanently mounted? This setup isn't if it makes a difference.

[megatexture]

should have got a ctek ... connect 4 wires and your done lmao

[the evil twin]

should have got a ctek ... connect 4 wires and your done lmao

ROFL... now you tell him

[mudski]

ROFL... now you tell him

I'm not ROFL'ing... :(
You have explained how to switch between chargers, Cuppa's enligtened me on switching between dc-dc and solar on the BCDC. The only thing now thats got me is how to get the ignition wire over to the relay.

[Yendor]

Does your vehicle already have the charge circuit wired down the back? If so how is this wired? are you currently using a smart solenoid? do you have a second battery under the bonnet? if so how is this wired regarding the smart solenoid?

Are pins 2 & 5 used in your trailer plug?

[the evil twin]

snip...
The only thing now thats got me is how to get the ignition wire over to the relay.

Wireless?
Blutooth?
Wormhole?

Sorry, couldn't resist...

The reason for the Changeover relay is to stop the BCDC from discharging the Cranker.

Put a VSR in place of the Relay, more expensive than a changeover relay but no ign wiring req'd.
Vehicle running - VSR allows circuit to the BCDC
Vehicle stopped - VSR will drop out when Cranker voltage drops below set point and BCDC will have no input other than Solar if connected

[Cuppa]

mudski my old fruit, sorry if i 'sounded' frustrated, words alone are not the best medium for conveying mood. I assure you there was no frustration, i was just trying to explain the reason for the changeover relay in Redarc's diagram.

Yes, i did mean fixed, as in permanently mounted. As you are not intending to have permanently mounted panels, the automatic switch over would not be of much value to you. Therefore you don't need the relay at all.
With the bcdc mounted in your camper all you need is a two way switch instead. (Essentially you become the 'human changeover relay' :))

From BCDC the red wire goes to the andersen plug. (Crank battery +ve)
From the BCDC the Black wire goes to the andersen plug (crank battery -ve)
When driving, the car is connected to the camper's andersen plug.

When camped the car is disconnected & instead the solar panels are connected to the camper,s andersen plug. So then solar +ve is connected to the red wire & solar -ve is connected to the black wire.

A two way switch is required in the camper on the BCDC's blue wire. When charging from the car the switch connects the blue wire to the red wire. When charging from solar the switch connects the blue wire to the black wire.

two issues with this setup.
1. If you forget to switch over your batteries don't get charged.
2. You should always flick the switch when nothing is connected to the andersen plug just to be safe (ensuring you are not switching with a load connected)

[Yendor]

Wireless?
Blutooth?
Wormhole?

Sorry, couldn't resist...

The reason for the Changeover relay is to stop the BCDC from discharging the Cranker.

Put a VSR in place of the Relay, more expensive than a changeover relay but no ign wiring req'd.
Vehicle running - VSR allows circuit to the BCDC
Vehicle stopped - VSR will drop out when Cranker voltage drops below set point and BCDC will have no input other than Solar if connected

Great minds think a like hey. :biggrin:

He would still need to use the change over relay if he does decide to use the VSR. The blue wire going to the BCDC needs to change from a positive when charging via the vehicle to a negative when charging via solar.

[Cuppa]

The reason for the Changeover relay is to stop the BCDC from discharging the Cranker.



In mudski's camper once switched to solar a different 'earth' is being used, so i can't see how there would be a circuit to discharge the cranker. The relay is only to provide 'automatic' switching between inputs.

[mudski]

Does your vehicle already have the charge circuit wired down the back? If so how is this wired? are you currently using a smart solenoid? do you have a second battery under the bonnet? if so how is this wired regarding the smart solenoid?

Are pins 2 & 5 used in your trailer plug?

Ok. The setup on the car is simple. One cranking battery and one aux battery connected via a Redarc Sbi12 (I think its called). I have an anderson plug down the back connected to the cranking battery. All the seven wires are used in the trailer plug as I have electric brakes on the trailer.
Currently, or how the trailer setup was, is I would connect the solar up directly to the trailers anderson plug, as my current panels have the contoller on the back of the panel. This part I am changing when I get another 12v panel or modify my 24v panels.

[mudski]

So can I assume that I still need the relay for the switching between the mains charger and DCBC??
And, as per Cuppa's comments I don't need the relay to switch between solar and car charging? Just a manual switch? Which I dont mind doing.
I really appreciate all this info from you guys. I could easily just pay an auto lecky to do this but then i wouldn't know how it all works. I still don't, lol but it would be great to actually have a write up with diagrams as a sticky here for others to use.

Thanks.

[Yendor]

In mudski's camper once switched to solar a different 'earth' is being used, so i can't see how there would be a circuit to discharge the cranker. The relay is only to provide 'automatic' switching between inputs.

I think his concern was if the camper trailer was left plugged in to the vehicle and the engine wasn't running.

But the BCDC unit should isolate it's self once voltage dropped below a set level on the cranker battery.

[megatexture]

If for some reason you do need another feed to the back of the trailer you could go a 12pin flat trailer plug that has 7 pins rated to 15a for the usual stuff and 5 pins at 35a for whatever else you may want to connect.. I've got one on my sh!t box ranger.

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/flat

[mudski]

If for some reason you do need another feed to the back of the trailer you could go a 12pin flat trailer plug that has 7 pins rated to 15a for the usual stuff and 5 pins at 35a for whatever else you may want to connect.. I've got one on my sh!t box ranger.

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/flat

Yeah I looked at them and considered it but I would prefer nor to go that way if I can help it.

[Yendor]

Ok. The setup on the car is simple. One cranking battery and one aux battery connected via a Redarc Sbi12 (I think its called). I have an anderson plug down the back connected to the cranking battery. All the seven wires are used in the trailer plug as I have electric brakes on the trailer.
Currently, or how the trailer setup was, is I would connect the solar up directly to the trailers anderson plug, as my current panels have the contoller on the back of the panel. This part I am changing when I get another 12v panel or modify my 24v panels.

One way of doing it is to set up a constant operation solenoid in this wire "I have an anderson plug down the back connected to the cranking battery" the solenoid would be switched on by ignition. As long as you don't have anything else connected to this wire that needs power all the time. This will work fine.

At the change over relay connect the blue wire, going by the diagram that needs to be connected to ignition, connect this instead to the positive wire that connects to the anderson plug that connects to the vehicle.

Then just follow the rest of the diagram. This will keep it fully automatic or you could fit the manual switch as Cuppa suggested.

[Cuppa]

Another manual setup, without a switch, from Redarc's web site. Nice & simple.

http://www.redarc.com.au/handy-hints/wiring_guides/bcdc_3_way_anderson_setup/

from this it appears that the bcdc's blue wire is only required when connecting to alternator?? When connected to solar the blue wire doesn,t go anywhere which is different to what is shown in other setup diagrams. Any thoughts anyone?

[Yendor]

Another manual setup, without a switch, from Redarc's web site. Nice & simple.

http://www.redarc.com.au/handy-hints/wiring_guides/bcdc_3_way_anderson_setup/

from this it appears that the bcdc's blue wire is only required when connecting to alternator?? When connected to solar the blue wire doesn,t go anywhere which is different to what is shown in other setup diagrams. Any thoughts anyone?

Good find, that's nice and simple.

I found on the RedArc site that the blue wire doesn't have to be connected to earth for solar it can just be left floating.

[mudski]

Another manual setup, without a switch, from Redarc's web site. Nice & simple.

http://www.redarc.com.au/handy-hints/wiring_guides/bcdc_3_way_anderson_setup/

from this it appears that the bcdc's blue wire is only required when connecting to alternator?? When connected to solar the blue wire doesn,t go anywhere which is different to what is shown in other setup diagrams. Any thoughts anyone?

Sweet! So All I need to find triple Anderson plugs and and setup as per picture. That is a good find. Thank you.

[BigRAWesty]

Sweet! So All I need to find triple Anderson plugs and and setup as per picture. That is a good find. Thank you.

Would you need a triple?? Just jump the sensor wire from my the positive terminal..

[Cuppa]

I haven't seen triple anderson's (except in that diagram) & can't see any on Anderson,s web site (http://andersonpower.com.au/products_all.html). I'd be asking Redarc if they know of a source. You could always use a standard twin pole anderson together with one of their single pole connectors. Not quite as tidy, but would do the same job.

EDIT:The single 'Powerpole' connectors can be attached to each other so easy to create a 3 pole anderson plug.
http://www.andersonpower.com/products/singlepole-connectors.html

[megatexture]

I've got a few of these and they are good but if you want to connect them to a standard Anderson plug you have to plug them in as individuals as a standard plug is wider, so if you want to use it as one plug you will have to replace the one on the car also.

[mudski]

O.k guys. All I need to do now is use the c/o relay to switch between the mains charger and BCDC. I should assume the way ET has explained it is the way to go???

[Cuppa]

O.k guys. All I need to do now is use the c/o relay to switch between the mains charger and BCDC. I should assume the way ET has explained it is the way to go???

I'm not really sure what you are trying to achieve with the relay

If you connect a mains charger to the crank battery with the trailer connected via the anderson plug it will charge all the batteries. If you only want to charge the crank battery you just unplug the trailer. If you only want to charge the camper batteries you could put an anderson plug onto the charger's output wires & plug it directly into the camper's anderson plug or alternatively directly to the camper batteries if they are readily accessible.

[mudski]

I'm not really sure what you are trying to achieve with the relay

If you connect a mains charger to the crank battery with the trailer connected via the anderson plug it will charge all the batteries. If you only want to charge the crank battery you just unplug the trailer. If you only want to charge the camper batteries you could put an anderson plug onto the charger's output wires & plug it directly into the camper's anderson plug or alternatively directly to the camper batteries if they are readily accessible.

Well I was under the assumption I needed to run a relay between the BCDC and the mains charger so when either is powered up it switches the relay over the the right charger. I was concerned if I didn't I would damage something. So it looks that I am incorrect.
So all I need to do is do as the link you provided regarding the BCDC 3-Way Anderson setup, then simply add the Mains charger in and just connecting the +ive and -ive from the mains to the batteries? And there is no need for the Changeover relay.
Please tell me this is correct.

[Cuppa]

Correct. :)

[mudski]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!
I think what threw me, mostly, was ET's post on adding the c/o relay between the two chargers. I was getting caught up in thinking I must have this relay. But having said that I now understand fully how a c/o relay works...Before i never did. Lol.
Next is to convert my panels to 12v and I'm set for Thursday....
Seriously I can't thank you, ET, Yendor and Megatexture enough....

[megatexture]

Fingers x you can convert your pannel, have you had a chance to check it out ?

[the evil twin]

Correct. :)

Jeeeeez Louise... I dunno... I sorta agree
How to phrase a reply without confusing anyone... I probably shouldn't but here goes?

1. If you run two active (active meaning turned On) charging sources in parallel to one battery whichever charger has the higher set point will take over.
Hypothetical to illustrate. If the setpoint of the BCDC is say 14.4 and the Mains is 14.2 (purely hypothetically) then the Mains will never do anything and the BCDC will do all the charging work.

2. If either source is a multi stage smart charger it will not be able to see the Battery voltage so will not work out what stage of the charging cycle it should be using.

3. If only one charger is active IE you either have solar OR mains then there is no issue.

4. Given that the mains charger will be bridge rectified and the BCDC is a 12 volt device then 99.9% sure nothing will "let all the smoke out" if they are both active so should be fine to wire them in without a changeover relay.

Given what I think you are trying to do then go for it without the Change Over relay.
If you think you have issues it is very easy to add one later.

[mudski]

Jeeeeez Louise... I dunno... I sorta agree
How to phrase a reply without confusing anyone...
Too late...




1. If you run two active (active meaning turned On) charging sources in parallel to one battery whichever charger has the higher set point will take over.
Hypothetical to illustrate. If the setpoint of the BCDC is say 14.4 and the Mains is 14.2 (purely hypothetically) then the Mains will never do anything and the BCDC will do all the charging work.

2. If either source is a multi stage smart charger it will not be able to see the Battery voltage so will not work out what stage of the charging cycle it should be using.

3. If only one charger is active IE you either have solar OR mains then there is no issue.

4. Given that the mains charger will be bridge rectified and the BCDC is a 12 volt device then 99.9% sure nothing will "let all the smoke out" if they are both active so should be fine to wire them in without a changeover relay.

Given what I think you are trying to do then go for it without the Change Over relay.
If you think you have issues it is very easy to add one later.
What issue you think, I think I may have? theoretically I shouldn't have to active source on at once. I plug the trailer into the car a go off camping. Or glamping I was told I now do, park the trailer and unhook the power supply from the car and then plug in the panels. I then pack up after my time camping, plug the trailer back up, get home, unplug again and then plug the mains charger in.
So unless I physically plug and turn on the mains charger whilst the BDCD is still connected to the car. I should be right. Right!?

I have just finished it all off except for making the panel to fit the voltage display in. Then next is to modify my 24V panels to 12v.

I drew this up for myself as I work better with diagrams. If I were to fit the c/o relay down the track is this picture correct?
43048

[megatexture]

I don't understand why you need the relay as you wouldn't use solar when you have 240 available or use 240 or solar when your on the road with the camper in tow so there won't be any confusion between the units just hook them both to the batteries

[mudski]

I don't understand why you need the relay as you wouldn't use solar when you have 240 available or use 240 or solar when your on the road with the camper in tow so there won't be any confusion between the units just hook them both to the batteries
I didn't understand either but do now...I don't really need the relay. But I drew this up when I though I had to have the relay. I got a funny way of thinking...I will be attacking the panels tomorrow too...

[Cuppa]

3. If only one charger is active IE you either have solar OR mains then there is no issue.



This was my assumption about mudski's intended use when I posted my uncharacteristally short post.

Even if mains & solar were connected to the camper batteries at the same time the worst that would happen is that some of the input would be wasted. The batteries would still get charged. Personally I see no real advantage in using a relay for the mains charger. Not having the mains charger permanently mounted gives a lot more flexibility. It can charge the crank battery alone, the crank & camper batteries together, or the camper batteries alone. It can also charge the mower battery, the motorcycle battery or whatever. If permanently wired with a relay as pictured in the diagram (i'm not sure if it's right or not btw mudski, i get confused about the pin numbers on relays) it could only charge the camper batteries.

Those earths shown would of course connect to the batteries neg terminal.

[mudski]

I didn't end up going that way anyhow with the relay. Seeing that I don't need it what is the point of putting it in...Anyhow, seems to charge via mains, just have to test out the BCDC tomorrow if I get sunlight.



Those earths shown would of course connect to the batteries neg terminal.

Yeah I just got lazy with the picture... :)

[mudski]

Just like to add that I have recently returned from a four day camping trip. The camper running two 105AH batteries were running a water pump, 75L Engel Combo fridge/freezer (kept at a chilly -11c) and four LED strip lights, it lasted the whole time without a top up charge. By the time we packed up and left the batteries were only down to 12.2V. Effing happy with that.
Thanks to all who had their input in this. I can't thank you guys enough. Now to get some real solar panels....

[megatexture]

Did you put a multimeter on your solar panels on the 3 points? I'm just curious to see what the reading were if they had a common earth and possibly the outers being positive.

[mudski]

Did you put a multimeter on your solar panels on the 3 points? I'm just curious to see what the reading were if they had a common earth and possibly the outers being positive.

Hahaha! Between last week and now there has been zero sunshine. Doesn't matter now. Sold'em and what I got for them has paid for the new panel in full. Win!

[healy]

Im running same redarc on my car with 200w panel my batt stays full 99% of the time ive sat my car up for 3 weeks fridge running none stop at -1. I had an old panel that wasnt sufficient. You need to hit the redarc at a minimum of 18v vmp which is something thats not told in the book