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View Full Version : must do places in cape york!



89gqpatrol4x4
3rd March 2014, 09:25 PM
Hi guys,

This is a question for those of you that have been to cape York. We are going in Aug this year and I would like to know of any must do's and/ or places to go/see up there. any help much appreciated. We are going from Brisbane and have 4 weeks.
Thanks Rob

NotTortoise
3rd March 2014, 09:51 PM
I'm going in June, would be keen on any ideas as also.

Do you have any things in mind already? I don't know a thing about it apart from youtube (not very good study i suppose)

89gqpatrol4x4
3rd March 2014, 10:03 PM
on the list so far, just need to see if possible, time, feul, etc
creb track
bloomfield track
frenchmans line
lockhart river and maybe old lockhart river
loyalty beach and day trip to islands ( Thursday, horn etc)
ussher point
vrilya point

FNQGU
3rd March 2014, 10:33 PM
89 you have nailed it, pretty much.

If you haven't been up 'The Cape' at all, then don't miss Cooktown either. Depart Cairns and head up the coast road to Cooktown, probably stay at the Lion's Den pub on the way.

Then come across to the PDR (Peninsular Development Rd) via Battlecamp Rd, but turn in and go through Lakefield National Park.

Lockhart River itself isn't worth stopping at, unless you need fuel, or like Indigenous art. There is some dead-set fantastic art coming out of Lockhart. Old Lockhart is not exactly easy to go and see either. Although the road is technically a Gov't road, you will really need permission, and unless you know which wheel to grease, that ain't gonna happen. The road around there is another animal altogether and not to be underestimated. Not many go around there to be frank. It's nice if you can get there, but will take a LOT of effort and know-how. You will probably just end up at Chilli Beach instead, and pay a visit to Portland Roads.

When you come out of Lockhart, turn right and do the Frenchman's Track. That is quite a bit of fun for those who enjoy 4wdriving, especially if it has seen some rain. We normally camp on the Wenlock crossing if it is that time of day. Coming from Lockart, when you hit the crossing, turn left, and down the sand a bit. The water should be running, and it is a nice croc free camp right on the river. Do the righty though and take your rubbish and bury your turds…

Then head up North, hit the various tourist 'falls' on the way, and enjoy a good swim. Just be prepared that in August there will be every man and his dog there with you.

Virilya Point is one of my favourites, but really only if you enjoy a fish, or a sunset on a Far Northern beach where there are crocs and you can't swim. It is two+ hours drive out there, on some of the Cape's best corrugations, and then you need to either drive North up the beach, or South down the beach. You can camp at either end, but the locals (who man the Jardine Ferry) will want you to pay for this privilege. The camp sites are basic and there are no amenities.

From there, I would suggest crossing the Jardine, and heading up to Punsand Bay Resort to camp and visit the tip. Fuel etc. is back in Bamaga or Seisia, but they aren't as nice to stay at. Again, a nice beach at Punsand, but not really a place to swim. There are a few places to visit while based at Punsand, just look up the usual tourist maps.

Definitely go and visit TI, (from Seisia) via the ferry, and Friday Island (do the pearl farm), and then come back to Seisia.

Wiepa is worth a visit too for mine.

After that, you have done the basics, and outside places, of which there are quite a few, will depend on time.

Places like Archer Bends in the Mungkan Kandju National park are great just after the wet, but are also a long drive in, and if you like flowers and lilies, they are fantastic. If you have a small tinny with you, then you can just manage to get it in at Archer Bends, and should normally catch a barra or two in the couple of navigable kilometres of the river that are accessible. If you don't have a tinny, then don't drive all the way out to the bends, just camp on the various billabongs that have the lilies etc.

Pormpuraaw - if you really like fishing. Not much out there otherwise except an exceptional croc farm where I think they still have a 6.2m monster, although someone told me that he died last year. Was missing just about all his teeth he was so old. The croc farm is not a tourist thing either, but you may be able to visit if you ask at the council building. Camping is out on the beaches for minimal coin. Pay a the council building.

You can actually drive a track from near Pormpuraaw down to Kowanyama, but unless you know the conditions then I would advise caution.

Again, there are a heap of other less visited areas, but will leave it at the basics unless you have a lengthy period of time to play around with.

Oh, don't forget the Laura Rock art, and I personally love the Maytown Track, which comes out again at Laura, but is a difficult track that needs some research before you include it in your travel plans.

FNQGU
3rd March 2014, 10:46 PM
Actually, given your time frames, you may be able to include Cape Melville and Bathurst Heads in your trip. I hear that the silica mine has really made the trip in from Cooktown a whole lot easier than it used to be, but haven't been in that way for a few years.

If you go up from Cooktown, you'll come out back into Lakefield, then you can join back up the trip as before. It will take you a couple of days though. A night at Melville, then a night at Bathurst Heads, then it takes a few hours to drive out again and back to Lakefield.

And of course - the Old Telegraph Track itself! Are you not thinking of driving at least some of this?

For me, the East Coast of the Cape is the most interesting, but it is also very hard to get to and experience properly. The West Coast is also very difficult to experience, but it is different and does;t have the same sort of attractive features. I have been up and down the East coast by boat, and travelled on most of the various Cape roads, and seen a good deal of it. One way to experience it other than by just driving a long way in the dust for the usual tourist pics, and then driving back home again, is to take a helo flight, and there are a couple of operators out there doing it. One at Punsand Bay, and then another who does something a bit out of the ordinary who is based on the Massey River, on Silver Plains Station, out of Port Stewart. I can't remember his business name (will try to find out), but he has a nice new Robinson R44 and knows the Cape like almost no other. He has just set up a bush camp experience on the Massey, and does both scenic and fishing flights, and I guarantee you will see things that not many others have ever had the chance. I have flown with him several times and highly recommend taking up this option.

89gqpatrol4x4
4th March 2014, 01:34 AM
wow, great reply thanks BenK. Yeah we want to do the tele track aswell but as we have 4 weeks hoped to fit a few more things in. The heli flight sounds like a great idea will look into that. From the few maps I've seen fuel doesn't really seem to be an issue but I only have standard 90 L tank so should I be taking jerry tanks?

threedogs
4th March 2014, 04:59 AM
Don't forget to take plenty of lures, any piece of water WILL have fish in it and good fish too.
I went in 83 so heaps has changed , but a mate went a few years ago and went out to the east coast,
I think they went to Captain Billy Landing, which ever it was it was an easy round trip.
Pick fresh oysters off the rocks , fresh Mud Crabs, CREB track is a must as is Cooktown. They tell
me the best Hamburgers are at the Archer River Road house.
My memories are everything up the Cape will sting ,eat or poison you, but you'll have a blast.
I'll go next year with the forum if the trip is still on

FNQGU
4th March 2014, 09:03 AM
TD - yes, the Archer River burgers are good, but the burgers at Mt Molloy, just out of Mareeba, are even better. Bloody huge!

Re the fishing - there is no such thing as a free lunch! Just because you are on the Cape does not guarantee you fish. If you plan to fish, then you'll need to do some extra research.

Re the jerry can issue - if you want to head out to places like Virylia Point, then yeah, I would probably take one as a backup. Work out your mileage though, and you should be ok. It is pretty close to the Jardine Crossing there, so when you come back in you can grab some top up fuel to get you through. I normally dodge the Jardine for fuel as it is the most expensive on the Cape, and I got a dose of water in my fuel from there as well.

I forgot about Captain Billy's Landing. Nice spot off the main road to drop in for lunch. I think it is twenty something k's in. Worth a look, but not a spot to stay really.

threedogs
4th March 2014, 09:36 AM
this is your back yard hey Ben lucky bugger
Sex change Hotel is a nice refreshing stop,
and maybe last of the half decent prices for stores

@ BenK best corrugations we found were on the Battle camp track going to one of the Laura's, OMG lol

NotTortoise
4th March 2014, 11:01 AM
With the Old Tele Track, are there sissy tracks around particular obstacles or are there by passes for larger sections instead? In particular things like Gunshot. From what i've seen that looks like the most scary part of the track?

FNQGU
4th March 2014, 11:05 AM
Yes, have been rather fortunate to have had access all over the Cape really. Combined with a passion for fishing and camping, and it's been great.

Battlecamp Rd used to be terrible, you're right. It is like a highway at the moment though, with quite a number of bitumen sections when driving right across to/from Cooktown.

The Sexchange hotel at Coen is a great spot for a cold beer. There is a decent little museum over the road too. It never gets much of a look in, but there is a lot of old machinery there, and stories of the area. There is also a couple of 'interesting' characters in Coen who are worth visiting. One bloke there has built his house out of cement and bottles and has a stack of old mining gear lying around. Visitors are always welcome to have a look there too.

There is a good drive from Port Stewart down to Marina Plains along the coast too. Not many are aware of it, and it does go through land owned by the Lama Lama people, but there is some good fishing to be had down there too. You can now camp at Port Stewart in a designated location for a fee payable to the Traditional Owners. Not sure how much it is, but the fishing down there can be pretty damn good if you have a tinny, and can time the tides right, particularly around the mouth of the Stewart River, and a heap of little creeks to both the North and South.

threedogs
4th March 2014, 11:14 AM
Been dying to get back up there, the wilderness lodge had just closed for business as I think either ansett or Australian Airlines.
had plans for a big resort at the tip, Alls stores etc were brought at Bamaga, The Bamaga pier would have to be the best in Aust for fishing.
Was spooled many times, heaps of Tiger sharks hanging around under the pier too. Hoping to get up there next year mud ,flood or blood
Still have over 4 hrs of video of the trip, funny viewing these days

Mitch.mccabe
11th March 2014, 03:02 PM
Hey guys i dont mean to overtake the thread but is a valid question. From Cairns, (have family up there) for the guys that have done it before, how much time do you need to get up there and back to Cairns and be able to mark most of the best bits of the list? is 3-4 weeks enough to relax and still have fun? Obviously the longer the better.

threedogs
11th March 2014, 03:11 PM
From Cairns to the tip its only 750ks I think, we took 4 weeks and did it in 3 easy from Melbourne.
Take your time youll see more, plan ahead and also plan for no plan, things happen.
Plenty of film or these day SD card lol, Its IMO an eye opener big time.
Do it before its all sealed one of the last true adventures, the CSR and Simmo being the others

FNQGU
11th March 2014, 10:22 PM
Mitch, reality is you don't even need that long. If you have two weeks from Cairns, you'll get to see most of it. If you have three weeks, then even better. You'll be able to camp up and relax without being constantly on the move. Four weeks and you'll really start to get a feel for the place. Plus you can watch all the others race past you after stopping for one night, missing all that is worth experiencing and thinking they are 'doing the Cape'.

jack
11th March 2014, 10:51 PM
Hey guys i dont mean to overtake the thread but is a valid question. From Cairns, (have family up there) for the guys that have done it before, how much time do you need to get up there and back to Cairns and be able to mark most of the best bits of the list? is 3-4 weeks enough to relax and still have fun? Obviously the longer the better.

Hi Mitch,

Have a look at this thread thread: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?16669-RLI-s-Cape-York-travelling-Wilburys-tour-August-2013!&highlight=Wilburys
It's our Cape trip from last year, three weeks is plenty. There's an itinerary on page 19, we didn't religiously stick to it. Also plenty of other good info in the thread.
You'll love it, let me know if you need any more info.