Kimberly Trip Advice

[TPC]

I am in the process of planning and booking my trip to the Kimberly's and Dampier Peninsula.
I am taking 6 weeks for this trip and will use up 8 nights getting from home to the Kimberlys and back, would like to have more time but not possible with work commitments.
I am currently preparing an agenda and booking the caravan parks and activities that need to be booked in advance, i would prefer to plan as i go along but have been advised that as we are traveling in peek season (June,July) we need to book.
I am interested in hearing from anybody who has done the Gibb River Road and/or Dampier Peninsula, interested in highlights, things to avoid and any other advice you think would be useful.

Cuppa, I have read your trip report which is very detailed and a great read but would be interested in what you would do now if you had a week to spend on the Dampier Peninsula, my original plans did not include heading up there but your trip report changed my mind.

Any advice or comments welcome.

Thanks, Tony.

[BigRAWesty]

Yea..

Leave me a seat...





Please.. I'll do the dishes..

[TPC]

Yea..

Leave me a seat...





Please.. I'll do the dishes..

Tempting, I hate dishes.

[Cuppa]

I’ll show you the best bits if you wanna take me along, but you’ll have to do your own dishes!

if I were going up the Dampier Peninsula for a week, I’d do much the same as I did previously. With one addition.
The west coast & the east coast of the peninsula are quite different so at the very least I would want to camp on both sides. You will have seen from my report that I thought very highly of two places we stayed at, Whalesong Cafe on the west coast & Bully’s camp on the east coast. There are many other small camps, but some are pretty un-appealing & run down, & some with no access to the water. The addition is a camp which has been set up since we were there & I would be keen to give it a go. It is the Gnylmarung retreat near Beagle Bay on the west coast. http://gnylmarung.org.au I think in a week I’d have to go to all three. Whalseong for it red pindan cliffs & beaches, & great laid back ambience, Gnylmarung for some fishing & being a bit more active, & Bully’s for a bit of each of those in the different east coast environment. Bully’s is also a good spot to base yourself in to explore the top end of the peninsula from.

I could tell you a bit about our experience of the Gibb River Road, but others who have travelled all of it might like to tell of their experience. We loved it but only travevelled part of it, & look forward to getting back up there & seeing a everything it has to offer as well as revisiting the parts we preveiously went to.

How are you getting up to the Kimberley? If you are going via the Tanami, I am told there is some great camping along the Duncan Road up to Kunnunurra. Then westward along the Gibb. Trouble with that is that you bypass the Bungles which are a must see (allow at least 3 days in there). If you are passing by Keep River NP on the NT side of the WA Border, it is also well worth a visit.

Geez mate you have me salivating at the thought of your trip!

Cuppa

[FOS]

My wife and I did the Gibb in 2010. We didn’t book ahead, just winged it all the way.
We started from the Derby side, first stop Windjana Gorge. Camping at the Gorge was $10 from memory, first in best dressed. Solar showers and long drop toilets, no powered sites.
The axle on the camper trailer seize half way across at Imintji . Neville from "Over the range Mechanical repairs" located directly next to Imintji Roadhouse made up a “new” axle from an old Toyota axle. That got us all the way home to Perth via Kununurra. We had to camped in the bush down by the river for the night which was a bit scary.
We were heading up to Kulumburu but the road up to Drysdale River Station was rough as guts and we just didn’t want to drive another 160 kms on corrugation like that. Driving in we were doing 20 kph and it was rattling the fillings outta my teeth. Coming out I floored it (90 – 100kms) and it wasn’t too bad.
Home Valley Station: Best Barramundi I have ever eaten.
El Questro: Millionaires paradise, to expensive for this little peasant.

[FOS]

40952

40953

[FOS]

40954

40955
ivanhoe crossing

[happygu]

I dont want to give you you too much advice, because everything has changed in the last 10 years since our second trip up there......

But - I dont think this has changed, everything is fantastic and there isnt anything I wouldnt see again.

A few of the highlights were camping on the beachfront north of Kalumburu, Mitchell Falls, Tunnel Creek, Fitzroy River, camping out on Halls Creek Station ( which I think all costs money these days ), Winjana Gorge.

Mic

[TPC]

I’ll show you the best bits if you wanna take me along, but you’ll have to do your own dishes!

if I were going up the Dampier Peninsula for a week, I’d do much the same as I did previously. With one addition.
The west coast & the east coast of the peninsula are quite different so at the very least I would want to camp on both sides. You will have seen from my report that I thought very highly of two places we stayed at, Whalesong Cafe on the west coast & Bully’s camp on the east coast. There are many other small camps, but some are pretty un-appealing & run down, & some with no access to the water. The addition is a camp which has been set up since we were there & I would be keen to give it a go. It is the Gnylmarung retreat near Beagle Bay on the west coast. http://gnylmarung.org.au I think in a week I’d have to go to all three. Whalseong for it red pindan cliffs & beaches, & great laid back ambience, Gnylmarung for some fishing & being a bit more active, & Bully’s for a bit of each of those in the different east coast environment. Bully’s is also a good spot to base yourself in to explore the top end of the peninsula from.

I could tell you a bit about our experience of the Gibb River Road, but others who have travelled all of it might like to tell of their experience. We loved it but only travevelled part of it, & look forward to getting back up there & seeing a everything it has to offer as well as revisiting the parts we preveiously went to.

How are you getting up to the Kimberley? If you are going via the Tanami, I am told there is some great camping along the Duncan Road up to Kunnunurra. Then westward along the Gibb. Trouble with that is that you bypass the Bungles which are a must see (allow at least 3 days in there). If you are passing by Keep River NP on the NT side of the WA Border, it is also well worth a visit.

Geez mate you have me salivating at the thought of your trip!

Cuppa

Thanks for the reply Cuppa, I agree that Bully's camp on the east coast is a place to go, sounds like paradise and I am not worried about the basic facilities as I am happy to bush camp and be self sufficient. I could not work out where Whalesong was at first but believe it is in Pender Bay. I have just looked up Gnylmarung retreat and it does sound like a good choice.
We will be heading up the Tanami and plan to spend a day at Palm Springs and 3 days in the Bungles so that rules out Duncan Rd.

When i first booked time off work for this trip i thought 6 weeks would allow me to take my time and see everything but have now realized that i could easily spend 3 months up there and still miss some places.

[Cuppa]

Not sure of the name of the bay where Whalesong is, but basically follow the signs to Middle Lagoon & look out for the Whalesong sign when you get close.

[TPC]

My wife and I did the Gibb in 2010. We didn’t book ahead, just winged it all the way.
We started from the Derby side, first stop Windjana Gorge. Camping at the Gorge was $10 from memory, first in best dressed. Solar showers and long drop toilets, no powered sites.
The axle on the camper trailer seize half way across at Imintji . Neville from "Over the range Mechanical repairs" located directly next to Imintji Roadhouse made up a “new” axle from an old Toyota axle. That got us all the way home to Perth via Kununurra. We had to camped in the bush down by the river for the night which was a bit scary.
We were heading up to Kulumburu but the road up to Drysdale River Station was rough as guts and we just didn’t want to drive another 160 kms on corrugation like that. Driving in we were doing 20 kph and it was rattling the fillings outta my teeth. Coming out I floored it (90 – 100kms) and it wasn’t too bad.
Home Valley Station: Best Barramundi I have ever eaten.
El Questro: Millionaires paradise, to expensive for this little peasant.

Hi Fos, what time of the year did you do your trip?
A lot of the places we are going don't have booking but we will spend some time at caravan parks at Broome, Fitzroy Crossing and Kununurra and have been advised to book these.
I would be happy to avoid these places but the two wives have to be kept happy.
The broken axle would have been a real drama for you, i would imagine the camper you had would have done a lot of work being a hire one but does makes me think again of all the mechanical things that can go wrong.

[TPC]

I dont want to give you you too much advice, because everything has changed in the last 10 years since our second trip up there......

But - I dont think this has changed, everything is fantastic and there isnt anything I wouldnt see again.

A few of the highlights were camping on the beachfront north of Kalumburu, Mitchell Falls, Tunnel Creek, Fitzroy River, camping out on Halls Creek Station ( which I think all costs money these days ), Winjana Gorge.

Mic

Thanks Mic,

We plan to see all of those, I haven't found anyware in the Kimberly's that doesn't cost money now and except for the National Parks most are very expensive.

[Avo]

went up to dampier penn last year,one thing I can tell you the caravan parks are not cheap,best one in the whole area imo was the balmorral rd caravan park..which way you coming and going?

If you are keen theres a book called the...ummmm? Kimberly bible(all the locals call it that) had nearly every bit of info in it about the Kimberly..I'll try and dig it up tonight and give you the name..if you can't find it I can send it to you..just return it once done mate....


Found it..it's called "the Kimberly.......................................... ..An adventure's guide...by Ron and Viv Moon......look it up mate an excellent book if your heading that way..

[Cuppa]

I rate this pretty highly. Birgit has been doing it for quite a while now, & updates it every year.

http://www.kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-kimberley.html

and

the freebie version http://www.kimberleyaustralia.com/kimberley-travel-guide.html

[TPC]

went up to dampier penn last year,one thing I can tell you the caravan parks are not cheap,best one in the whole area imo was the balmorral rd caravan park..which way you coming and going?

If you are keen theres a book called the...ummmm? Kimberly bible(all the locals call it that) had nearly every bit of info in it about the Kimberly..I'll try and dig it up tonight and give you the name..if you can't find it I can send it to you..just return it once done mate....


Found it..it's called "the Kimberly.......................................... ..An adventure's guide...by Ron and Viv Moon......look it up mate an excellent book if your heading that way..

I do have that book and it is great, have been using it to work out estimated traveling distances and times.

We will be heading up via the Tanami and probably heading back the same way.

This is where we have planned to stay so far.



Coober Pedy


Alice Springs


Renehans Bore


Wolfe Creek


Halls Creek-Palm Springs


Purnulula NP


Kununnara


El Questro


Drysdale River


Mitchell Falls NP


Drysdale River


Windjana Gorge NP


Horizontal Falls (Derby)


Broom


Dampier Peninsula


Broom


Fitzroy Crossing

[TPC]

I rate this pretty highly. Birgit has been doing it for quite a while now, & updates it every year.

http://www.kimberleyaustralia.com/destination-kimberley.html

and

the freebie version http://www.kimberleyaustralia.com/kimberley-travel-guide.html

I have just downloaded the pay version, well worth it for $27.

Time to do some more reading.

[liftlid]

40952

40953

We saw something similar on the roads up there almost every day, last place I would tow a trailer.

[liftlid]

Stay away from the communities if you can, you will sleep better that way, also allow more time to enjoy the waterfalls on the gibb, it's pleasant just sitting in the rivers after lunch, take more time to explore the places that are harder to get to.

[FOS]

Hi Fos, what time of the year did you do your trip?
A lot of the places we are going don't have booking but we will spend some time at caravan parks at Broome, Fitzroy Crossing and Kununurra and have been advised to book these.
I would be happy to avoid these places but the two wives have to be kept happy.
The broken axle would have been a real drama for you, i would imagine the camper you had would have done a lot of work being a hire one but does makes me think again of all the mechanical things that can go wrong.

We went all of September 2010. The only place we had drama getting accommodation was Broom. We ended up getting a cheap motel and only stay one night on that trip.
The camper trailer, yeah bit unlucky but we were reimbursed for the cost of the repairs and have used the same hire mob since then with no problems.

[Avo]

make sure you take something to help the sandflies stay away if your going to be anywhere near the coast up there mate also,nasty buggers they are.

[ezza57]

Thanks for the informative information, going up there for 4 months come July

[pickers]

Trailers are fine on the gibb just check your bearings before you go
and let you tyres down as you would in your 4b
It's more people don't think and just go for it than bad luck

[pearcey]

G`day Tony
I haven't done the Gibb or the Kimberly so no advice on those from me.
But when we did the Canning I towed a trailer and had no problems. The Tanami was rough as, and we were down to 10 to 20Ks per hour but there were plenty of good camp spots along the way. Also stayed and Old Halls Creek which was pretty good and did a couple of day trips from there all on private property but again no problems with permission. Camped at the Bungles for 4 nights and as Cuppa say`s you will need time to see every thing. Did the Chopper flight over the Bungles and if you can afford it Do It. It is a little exy but well worth it. By the way one fell out of the sky 2 weeks after our flight so no more choppers for the missus.Wolfe Creek to Halls Creek is an easy run and camping at Wolfe Creek would not be a problem.
Only hint I can give you is travel as light as possible and watch out for rental 4x4s they dont always remember that its a harsh land and we drive on the left side of the road. Towing a trailer is not a problem if you take your time and drive to the conditions. Also I ran around 25 to 28psi on all the dirt and kept-ed the speed down to a reasonably and easy pace.
Sorry this is a bit late but have been indisposed for a month.

[liftlid]

Did the gibb in 2011 and saw a broken trailer almost every day, the tanami is a long way 1000+km to be doing at 25 km per hour!

[TPC]

The Tanami is now very well maintained because of the mining so I believe I will have an easy drive along there.
I have travelled a lot of rough tracks with my camper trailer in the past and will always drive to the conditions and keep the trailer maintained.
I have also seen a lot of broken trailers on other tracks and it is usually because people have tried to go to fast and some are light duty trailers that should never be taken on the dirt.

[happygu]

TPC,

You are right - the Tanami has always been a pretty good road every time I have travelled it when I lived up there ....

There was only one time where I had two punctures / destroyed tyres on the same trip, and other than that not one other mishap.

Make sure that you carry two spares so you can keep going - you will rarely need them, and rarely even need the one, but when you do, like I did, it is very handy.

A tip that you probably already know, but try to make the Camper and vehicle rims and tyre size common, so you can maximize your spares....

Mic

[pearcey]

Sorry guys, I forgot to tell you that our trip was done at the end of the terrorist season and from Tilmouth Wells to the Granites was the corrugated bit from the Granites to Halls Creek was pretty good.
I know you will have a great trip Tony and will totally enjoy every moment, but if you do need help just call me I`ll only be to happy to cruise up there and give you a hand.
Pearcey

[colinlamos]

Gidday Hardcore, my partner and just now in Katherine waiting for a part for my ute which should arrive today. we are heading to Kununurra today then down to the Bungle Bungle before heading to Fitzroy crossing and on to Broome. Our plan is to return via the Gibb River rd. Sounds like you are heading staight out the Gibb from Kununurra so, if you can, post tome info about the places you go to.

I''l do the same - especially for the Bungle Bungle. Have heard may mixed reports about the road in so may be useful to have up to date info.

Cheers...Colin

[Cuppa]

I''l do the same - especially for the Bungle Bungle. Have heard may mixed reports about the road in so may be useful to have up to date info.

Cheers...Colin

No up to date info, but when we went in to the Bungles a few years ago (on motorcycles) there were really only two spots to catch people out. One water crossing had a deep hole in it. It was quite entertaining sitting & watching confident faces change rapidly when water hit the windscreens momentarily. Bikes were able to cross at the side using a narrow concrete wall.
There was also one section of deep ruts filled with bulldust, but it was pretty easy to identify before hitting it, the area had numerous tracks to get around. On the bikes we found the ride in an easy one (& my wife was no gun rider) but listening to those returning to the free camp at Spring Creek (@ the turn off the highway) before we went, our expectations were for a really difficult ride. We think most who were saying how it was the worst road they had ever been on were probably folk who had only ever used their 4wd's for caravan towing, & never been off road.

[TPC]

Gidday Hardcore, my partner and just now in Katherine waiting for a part for my ute which should arrive today. we are heading to Kununurra today then down to the Bungle Bungle before heading to Fitzroy crossing and on to Broome. Our plan is to return via the Gibb River rd. Sounds like you are heading staight out the Gibb from Kununurra so, if you can, post tome info about the places you go to.

I''l do the same - especially for the Bungle Bungle. Have heard may mixed reports about the road in so may be useful to have up to date info.

Cheers...Colin

Gday Colin,

We are not heading off from Adelaide until 21st June and will be visiting the Bungles and Kununurra before we get on the Gibb River Rd on 2nd July.
How long will you be spending in the Kimberley's?
I am not worried about the track condition for the Bungles, as Cuppa said most reports are probably from people who are not used to off-roading.
When I start the trip I will start a new thread and add my experiences when I have internet coverage.

Cheers, Tony

[Cuppa]

When I start the trip I will start a new thread and add my experiences when I have internet coverage.



Will be looking forward to that. Lots of pics required!