All Things Chev

[Gecko17]

G'day guys n girls.

I thought that I would creat this post for all of those that have had the 6.5l V8 conversions done to their Patrol's or even those that are thinking about doing it.

My aim is to try to get all of the info in one place and easy to find.

Feel free to either post about things that work, things that don't or even things that would work with a few mods. Any info that helps is appreciated.

I know that there are quite a few of us on the forum now that has this conversion. the other thing being that everyone has an opinion on how these conversions preform but few have actually owned or driven one so lets see if we can't squash a few rumours while we're at it.

@ AB, Can you please make this a sticky? I am not sure if it is in the right place either...

Ok, a little bit about my truck.

I brought my 2006 series 4 GU wagon with the ICTD 6.5l Chev back in 08/2012, here in WA.
The conversion had been done by Brunswick Conversions also here in WA, back in 02/2011. With the conversion, it also had a 5spd manual gearbox and 3.9:1 diff ratios. When I used 1st gear, the range was so short, it almost made it worth skipping it altogether and starting off in 2nd gear. To get around this problem (for me anyway) I replaced the manual for a 4spd Chev transmission.

Since owning it, I have travelled both north and south of Perth, usually towing a camper trailer. The fuel economy was slightly better than what I had with my old 98 4.5l GU Patrol, at around 15-18l/100km but obviously a lot more power.

Am I happy with my wagon? Damn straight! I now consider that I have the perfect alround wagon. Can it be improved? Absolutely! The only question is how much you want to spend...

Folks, this is just my opinion, as an owner of a 6.5l V8 Chev. All I can say, thinking back a couple of weeks ago when I went for a test drive off road, is what I posted a while back, being that I still giggle like a schoolgirl when I hit the loud pedal and it shows me just what it is capable of. I love my truck!

Look forward to hearing from the rest of you.

[AB]

My brother just purchased a patrol with the same engine which was done by Brunswick in wa as well. Also got the extra cab put on which makes a big difference!

I heard the earlier models pre turbo had issues with number 4 but I'm ill keep my eye on this thread for advice for him and ask any questions he may have about it.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Moved this into the Engine Conversion Sub Category

[FNQGU]

Good idea Highlander.

Like you I have the Turbo Intercooled version, although in a 1999 manual wagon. I agree with your comment regarding first gear, and I have been starting to think about an Auto, although I do like to drive the manual.

I had mine installed because I wanted the torque when towing a large reef boat, and for that it has been fantastic. It has also proved fantastic in the bush doing slow work as the torque just eats it.

At the moment I am in the process of setting it up for a bit more touring, and I think this engine will be great on the long open roads when towing a camper. I have also installed a 10% 5th gear rev reduction gear, which brings my revs at 100kph down to around 1700rpm or so. Great on the open road, but not so great towing a load. The Autron Cruise control works really well on the long runs too.

Since installing the engine, I've done a 3000+klm trip from Cairns to Winton and Longreach, and then back to the Coast and return to Cairns. A couple of trips up Cape York, one to do the Maytown Track and return via the Creb Track, and a second trip to Virilya Point in November that was over 3000k's as well. The engine has been great on all occasions.

My best fuel economy was just under 14l/100kms when on the trip out west, minus any roof-rack or camper. The Cape trips averaged 17l/100km, with loaded roof-rack and towing my 3.8m tinnie on an off-road trailer. That included a bit of beach driving, some of the tele-track, some National Parks and lots of the Peninsular Development Rd. I was pretty happy with those sorts of fuel figures which were better than what I had managed in a 200 series LC on a similar trip and with similar load.

Overall - very happy with the engine conversion.

[Gecko17]

Great to hear Ben. I have to get the cruise control unit and I know that there is a thread on it for the 6.5l so will have to look at that. I also have to look at my brakes as she's a pig to pull up at the mo but I seem to recall you saying that yours stopped on a dime? I need to get the wheels off and have a look at the pads and rotors.

As for fuel economy, I am running 35s at the mo as my play tires. On road/off road revs at 100kms were around 2000rpm so very happy as have a roof rack with 4 x spotties on as well as larger tires so when I drop down to 285/75/16s I reckon it will be about 1700rpm as well.

Does anyone know about or have got the Compushift II computer for the auto trans? I am having a few issues trying to get the optimum setting...

[FNQGU]

Cruise Control is cruise control. I don't think there would be a certain type that goes with the Chev 6.5 any better. I went with the Autron as I got to drive another vehicle with it fitted, and it worked nicely. I think it is pretty good gear and made in Aus.

Brakes - I ended up doing what a few here have done with brakes and fitted some dimpled and slotted rotors and the EBC 6000 SERIES Greenstuff Brake pads. I only did the fronts, but yes, braking is definitely better. No change in how it 'feels' on the pedal, but it definitely pulls up quicker, even with a big boat behind me.

I was just today talking with Graham at Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns. He does all the Brunswick conversions at this end of town. He has been fitting a lot of Chev Autos lately and has all the computer gear for tweaking them. I think it was the older 4L85-E he was doing. Not sure if anyone has tried the 6-speed yet. No doubt someone would have by now.

[Ian2011]

I am running stock size tires and at 100 kph, I sit on 2100 rpm with the 3.9-1 gear set as Brunswick do, BenK, what were you sitting on prior to getting the gear reduction. I was looking at increasing tyre size to see if that would help with my rpm but looking at your post Highlander, you are reducing tyre size to achieve the same goal as me, on another note, I just pulled a camper trailer from Albury via Townsville to Darwin with a roof bag and box and averaged 15 - 16 lph depending on terrain. Engine performed flawlessly even through 44 plus heat in Qld. I like everyone else would be interested in an auto install too.

[the evil twin]

Reducing tyre size will give higher RPM at 100 KPH not lower.

From heaps of surfing over the yank sites... 1700 to 1800 ish is about where they get their best fuel economy.

BenK... where did you source your 10% gearing from?

Last week I was talking to two blokes here in Perth, one with the 4L85 and one with a beefed up 4L80 and both reckon best thing ever.
If thats the go then a 6L80 should be goddam awesome as 1st is waaay lower and 6th is even higher overdriven ratio than the 4L80/5's

[AB]

Hi gents, have a bit of a potential disaster post possibly...

As some of you know my brother just recently purchased his new Patrol after someone rode off his old GU.

Anyways, Its the 6.5 chev non turbo in a GU cab chassis done by Brunswick in WA (not sure of exact type).

He just drove it back from WA to Melbourne and it ran like a dream.

Long story short it was a bloody hot day today and he drove up a long and steep hill to Christmas Hills from Yarra Glen (some of you know the hill) and it heated up to almost boiling but the temperature gauge read 3/4.

It was fine after the hill and cooled on the downhill.

Went to see a customer and it sat in the carpark for an hour and a half so cooled a bit too.

Drove 10 minutes down the road and it boiled again.

He got it home and is in his shed now looking at it but any advice is welcomed.

Praying it has not done the head of course.

The radiator overflow was pissing out hot water so we can eliminate thermostat shut (it has twin thermos too).

What can he check?

Both themostats stuck open? doubtful...

Water pump, doubtful?

Any other advice I can relay is appreciated!!!!

[nissannewby]

Could still be thermostats AB. What temp are the thermos kicking in? Could the radiator be blocked with bugs, dust etc etc from the trip across? Did he touch the level when he stopped for the hour and a half? When it's cold start it and run and allow it to warm up and see if any bubbles start to form in the rad.

[AB]

It lost 500mm when he started it the second time.

I think he is pulling the thermo's out now mate so I will ring and make sure he checks anyway.

Could very well simply be bugs and dirt too mate, I'm sure he's gone through that scenario after the trip but will double check.

I'll check in and come back soon...

Cheers Matty!!!

[AB]

He's checking thermos tonight so ill get back to you mate.

He has noticed the radiator cap is a bit "dicky" (his words) I guess meaning its not a solid fit and may be letting air in under the assumption it could be boiling at 99 rather then 108 or whatever pressure boiling is???

Radiator is very clean no bugs dust, etc.

Ill report back tomoz anyway.

Also, he did notice slight bubbles on the second start up but is on the hope its the cap letting air in. Thermo check tonight, new cap tomoz and check properly for bubbles.

[nissannewby]

Cap won't really let air in but if it's faulty then the system can't get to operating pressure allowing the boiling point to be lower than if the cap was in good condition. It will also allow more fluid to be pushed out if it's faulty.

[FNQGU]

Sorry AB, beyond me mate. I would have been thinking thermostats or radiator too, and if that didn't work I would be calling the cavalry.

Ian, I am running 285/75's, and prior to doing the reduction I was sitting at pretty much 2230rpm at the 100kph mark. For me that felt like the engine was revving high.

Evil Twin, my 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors and is just a standard Nissan gearbox fit up for 5th. I was expecting it to run at around 1900rpm, but I think it is doing about 1780rpm. Happy with that too. It really just lopes along and yet still has plenty of torque for overtaking to speeds of around 130kph. Anything higher and it again feels like it is out of its comfort zone. I've had it to 140kph, but haven't yet pushed it any higher.

I don't know what the difference is between the 4L80 & the 4L85, but yes I would expect a 6L80 would be a nice match with this engine. For me, 1st gear in High Range is almost a waste of time. I do notice that it blows a bit of black soot when starting off in second too, but it is just soooo much quicker off the mark than starting in first.

On another note, although the engine torque is awesome in low range 1st, after doing the Maytown Track (old Coach Road from Maytown to Laura), I really would have appreciated a 43% reduction gear, or even better, that 63% reduction that has been mentioned of late. 85% would be too much for the type of 4WDriving that I do, but the ability to crawl a bit slower up some of those rocks would have saved my tyres a bit more I think.

[the evil twin]

Hiya BenK,

Stolen from the yank forums...
The 4L80 was designed for vehicles up to 8000 lbs. GVWR and with engines up to 440 ft. lbs. of torque.
The 4L85 was designed for vehicles up to 16,500 lbs. GVWR and with engines up to 460 ft. lbs. of torque and towing capacity was up-rated to 22,000 LBS.

Ratios etc are all identical. The 85 is just a beefier torque converter, pinion gears etc

[AB]

My brother couldn't find his thermometer but he took both thermos out and they were shut.

They are set to open at 82 and boiled them up and they both opened around 30 seconds before the water boiled, one only opened half way but I'll try them at my house tonight.

So we can rule out they are stuck open anyway.

He is buying 2 more today anyway.

On another note, It's a full custom alum radiator. The cap pressure read 13 and apparently the chevs should be at 16 so we are thinking of maybe getting a 15 cap to check out as we do not want to blow the radiator possibly???

Small steps first with checking the easy possible problems so fingers crossed.

[nissannewby]

Yeah if they aren't opening enough and restriciting flow when its needed it will cause temp issues.

Shouldn't blow the rad mate. Other things should rear there head first (hoses etc).

What sort of temp drop does he get across the radiator?

[Gecko17]

Reducing tyre size will give higher RPM at 100 KPH not lower.

From heaps of surfing over the yank sites... 1700 to 1800 ish is about where they get their best fuel economy.

BenK... where did you source your 10% gearing from?

Last week I was talking to two blokes here in Perth, one with the 4L85 and one with a beefed up 4L80 and both reckon best thing ever.
If thats the go then a 6L80 should be goddam awesome as 1st is waaay lower and 6th is even higher overdriven ratio than the 4L80/5's

I just had a brand new 4L80E auto put in. As a result, Brunswick changed my diff ratios back to 4.11:1, which is why I thought that going back to 33in tires would decrease engine revs further... Is that not the case?

@AB, My mate, who services my truck is a heavy diesel fitter and when he changed the coolant in my radiator, replaced it with the stuff they use in their truck fleet. It is all coolant, not 50/50 and since using it, the needle has never gone past half way in the gauge. If you get the Castrol diesel 100% coolant, he said that that one works well.

These are the things to check:
- Check your thermostats, even tho they appear to work. One may be working but the other isn't or they may have a small blockage, like a bug or some such thing.
-Check the radiator for obstructions, holes, cleanliness. Is the front covered in bugs etc
-Check radiator fan, Viscous Hub seals for oil leaks. Fan should come on when engine is hot and should blow air fairly strongly... If fan isn't blowing strong air, chances are, its kaput.

Hope this helps mate.

[AB]

Well good news...

Replaced both thermostats and cap and its running like a dream.

Not sure which one was the issue or even possibly a bit of both but the pale look on his face is now recovering...lol

Thanks for your help gents!!


Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app

[FNQGU]

Another thing for people considering a Chev conversion to check out first is insurance. AAMI didn't want to know me any longer, despite having a rating 1, being over 40 without any accidents, having done several driver training and 4wd courses etc. they dropped me like a hot rock. RACQ also wanted nothing to do with it.

I could only find two insurance companies who would take it on and I went with Shannon's as they were half the price of the other mob. Shannon's also recognized Brunswick Diesel which lowered the premium somewhat I think. I think my premium is around $650 or so for fully comprehensive, which reminds me, I think I need to tell them about a few extras now too. The second mob (I have forgotten now) wanted $1500/year!!!


Sent from my iPad using Motorculture mobile app

[Stropp]

Another thing for people considering a Chev conversion to check out first is insurance. AAMI didn't want to know me any longer, despite having a rating 1, being over 40 without any accidents, having done several driver training and 4wd courses etc. they dropped me like a hot rock. RACQ also wanted nothing to do with it.

I could only find two insurance companies who would take it on and I went with Shannon's as they were half the price of the other mob. Shannon's also recognized Brunswick Diesel which lowered the premium somewhat I think. I think my premium is around $650 or so for fully comprehensive, which reminds me, I think I need to tell them about a few extras now too. The second mob (I have forgotten now) wanted $1500/year!!!


Sent from my iPad using Motorculture mobile app



what sort of value did they put on it??

[FNQGU]

what sort of value did they put on it??

Obviously mine is an older vehicle, with 250,000 on the clock, but they valued it at $39K. I thought that was fair.

[Stropp]

Obviously mine is an older vehicle, with 250,000 on the clock, but they valued it at $39K. I thought that was fair.

thats not bad, mine is $1400 for 42k full no claim etc etc.

[the evil twin]

snip...
Brunswick changed my diff ratios back to 4.11:1, which is why I thought that going back to 33in tires would decrease engine revs further... Is that not the case?



Nah mate, smaller tyres (IE going from 35 back to 33"s) have to turn faster to give you the same vehicle speed.
The only way to do that is spin the engine quicker.
To slow the engine RPM for a given speed it's bigger tyres OR change to lower diff ratios (not higher) OR change gearbox ratios.

I would suggest that the 4.11 diff and 35's are probably the go for 4WD'ing with the 4L80 ratios... but... probably the 3.9 would be better for cruising however I am by no means an expert.
All I do know is that the yanks swear that 1750-1800 ish is the sweet RPM for cruising with the Chevvies they have in their big pick ups.

Bottom line is it is always a compromise

[FNQGU]

thats not bad, mine is $1400 for 42k full no claim etc etc.

I think I have an excess for claims though. Would have to look it up again to see how much. Shannon's ask a few more questions to ascertain that you are an 'enthusiast' as well.

Who did you go through?

[PMC]

Hi gents, have a bit of a potential disaster post possibly...

As some of you know my brother just recently purchased his new Patrol after someone rode off his old GU.

Anyways, Its the 6.5 chev non turbo in a GU cab chassis done by Brunswick in WA (not sure of exact type).

He just drove it back from WA to Melbourne and it ran like a dream.

Long story short it was a bloody hot day today and he drove up a long and steep hill to Christmas Hills from Yarra Glen (some of you know the hill) and it heated up to almost boiling but the temperature gauge read 3/4.

It was fine after the hill and cooled on the downhill.

Went to see a customer and it sat in the carpark for an hour and a half so cooled a bit too.

Drove 10 minutes down the road and it boiled again.

He got it home and is in his shed now looking at it but any advice is welcomed.

Praying it has not done the head of course.

The radiator overflow was pissing out hot water so we can eliminate thermostat shut (it has twin thermos too).

What can he check?

Both themostats stuck open? doubtful...

Water pump, doubtful?

Any other advice I can relay is appreciated!!!!

G'day AB,

I am sorry to hear about the over heating issue, i only wished your brother would have listed to our advice and got the thing checked out!

Regards,

Paul

[Ian2011]

Also with Shannons, 35k insured for with 282,000 on the clock at time of quote on a 98 model.

[FNQGU]

Ian, how does your Diesel/Gas setup go with the Chev? Was only recently talking to Highlander about that mod. Where do you mount the gas tank and how big is it? How does it affect your fuel economy?

[Stropp]

Who did you go through?

i went through affinity brokers in melbourne

[AB]

G'day AB,

I am sorry to hear about the over heating issue, i only wished your brother would have listed to our advice and got the thing checked out!

Regards,

Paul

Yes mate, I mentioned everything you and I discussed...

He's now going to get it tested...lol


Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app

[PMC]

Yes mate, I mentioned everything you and I discussed...

He's now going to get it tested...lol


Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app

G'evening AB,

Great, news, i am now a happy man, to much money invested to allow problems occur so soon.

PS, DID YOU FIND THAT BLOODY SNAKE? LOL

Regards,

Paul

[Ian2011]

Ian, how does your Diesel/Gas setup go with the Chev? Was only recently talking to Highlander about that mod. Where do you mount the gas tank and how big is it? How does it affect your fuel economy?

Ben, the tank is mounted under the passenger side just rear of the passenger front door, has approx. 23 ltr of useable gas, you can definitely feel the difference when it is on in relation to the power. I haven't had it dynoed with the gas on the chev but it used to give me an additional 9 kw at the wheels when I had the 2.8 installed. With the 120 % increase in the price of gas I only run gas every couple of tanks to try to clean out the system and reduce carbon build up. If gas was still cheap I would recommend the conversion but not any more. As for fuel economy I didn't gain that much in dollar value as opposed to power, if you turn it off at 100, you physically feel the car slow down.

[AB]

G'evening AB,

Great, news, i am now a happy man, to much money invested to allow problems occur so soon.

PS, DID YOU FIND THAT BLOODY SNAKE? LOL

Regards,

Paul

No, I set the dogs out and checked everywhere. Must of moved onto Rossco's house next door...lol

[Gecko17]

Ben, the tank is mounted under the passenger side just rear of the passenger front door, has approx. 23 ltr of useable gas, you can definitely feel the difference when it is on in relation to the power. I haven't had it dynoed with the gas on the chev but it used to give me an additional 9 kw at the wheels when I had the 2.8 installed. With the 120 % increase in the price of gas I only run gas every couple of tanks to try to clean out the system and reduce carbon build up. If gas was still cheap I would recommend the conversion but not any more. As for fuel economy I didn't gain that much in dollar value as opposed to power, if you turn it off at 100, you physically feel the car slow down.

G'day Ian,

I had just discussed this with Ben. I just got told by a fitter on site who had installed gas on his 6.5L and he said there was a 35% increase in power with no down side. He said the simple reason was that gas loves high compression.

The only reason I am not so keen to do it, as for Ben, is the loss of room for camping gear.

[Ian2011]

Always good to hear that, although until I dyno mine I think a 35 % increase is a bit high but good if it's true.

[PMC]

Sorry AB, beyond me mate. I would have been thinking thermostats or radiator too, and if that didn't work I would be calling the cavalry.

Ian, I am running 285/75's, and prior to doing the reduction I was sitting at pretty much 2230rpm at the 100kph mark. For me that felt like the engine was revving high.

Evil Twin, my 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors and is just a standard Nissan gearbox fit up for 5th. I was expecting it to run at around 1900rpm, but I think it is doing about 1780rpm. Happy with that too. It really just lopes along and yet still has plenty of torque for overtaking to speeds of around 130kph. Anything higher and it again feels like it is out of its comfort zone. I've had it to 140kph, but haven't yet pushed it any higher.

I don't know what the difference is between the 4L80 & the 4L85, but yes I would expect a 6L80 would be a nice match with this engine. For me, 1st gear in High Range is almost a waste of time. I do notice that it blows a bit of black soot when starting off in second too, but it is just soooo much quicker off the mark than starting in first.

On another note, although the engine torque is awesome in low range 1st, after doing the Maytown Track (old Coach Road from Maytown to Laura), I really would have appreciated a 43% reduction gear, or even better, that 63% reduction that has been mentioned of late. 85% would be too much for the type of 4WDriving that I do, but the ability to crawl a bit slower up some of those rocks would have saved my tyres a bit more I think.

G'day BenK

I am curious to what the cost is for 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors?

Regards,

RLI

[the evil twin]

G'day BenK

I am curious to what the cost is for 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors?

Regards,

RLI

$1,250 plus fitting ... or 25% the cost of a 4L85 conversion :tongue:

Ooops... typo... meant 4L80, the 85's are much rarer and the Chevs need the better TC but not the increased towing rating (6 tonnes is a tad over our legal limit)

[FNQGU]

Sorry RLI, until that got bumped up by ET, I had missed that one.

Yes, cost as per above. I am told however that if I want a 4L85E box put in, that it is a ten grand job! That put me right off...

[the evil twin]

Sorry RLI, until that got bumped up by ET, I had missed that one.

Yes, cost as per above. I am told however that if I want a 4L85E box put in, that it is a ten grand job! That put me right off...

Holy Cow, that sounds a tad high to me... I was told it was a an easy peasy swap out. I'll be a tad pissed off it isn't.

A crate 4L80 (IE new) with the higher rated TC was $5,000
A prof reco 4L80 manual shift was $3,000
A prof reco 4L80 and valve body with a compushift was under $5,000

The box bolts straight up to the Chev and the adapter for the Patrol transfer case to 4L80 is under $1200

Supposedly the Chev/4L80/adapter length is the same as factory engine/gearbox so the cross member/drive shafts don't need to be worked

I was going for a reco sometime sooner rather than later but if it's 10 grand it will be later thats for sure

[FNQGU]

Ten grand for install of a 4L85E at Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns, I just double checked. Gryphon work with/for Brunswick, so I'd guess it would be same price over that side of Aus.

I don't know whether it would be worth getting the 4L85 over the 4L80 or not, nor what the price difference is.

I do however have access to a mate with a hoist and mechanical ability, so if a reco gearbox was not a big job, then that is what I will consider doing. I have been very close to wanting to install a low range reduction gear at the moment as well. However I could save on that and put it towards an Auto.

[FNQGU]

Might have touched on this in another thread, but since I installed a Redarc Battery Management System with a temp gauge on the Aux Battery, I have been very concerned about the heat from the exhaust. Around town I was constantly getting temps of 38-39 degrees, and during a test run where I worked the engine hard up some slow dirt tracks in 4WD, the battery heated up to 48 degrees.

Yesterday I fashioned up a bit of a heat guard and drilled some air holes in the battery box as well.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140120_184131_295_zpst0b0vf4r.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140120_184131_295_zpst0b0vf4r.jpg.html)

Also welded on half a chain link to the large pin that holds the whole battery box in place and allows it to swivel down. This pin was previously a pain in the ass to remove or to align properly when putting the locking bolt through it. Now works a charm.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140120_185017_398_zpsedaqnphk.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140120_185017_398_zpsedaqnphk.jpg.html)

I am a bit dubious as to whether this will make a whole lot of difference or not. If it doesn't, then I am down to doing something else with the exhaust or moving the battery.

[the evil twin]

Ten grand for install of a 4L85E at Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns, I just double checked. Gryphon work with/for Brunswick, so I'd guess it would be same price over that side of Aus.

I don't know whether it would be worth getting the 4L85 over the 4L80 or not, nor what the price difference is.

I do however have access to a mate with a hoist and mechanical ability, so if a reco gearbox was not a big job, then that is what I will consider doing. I have been very close to wanting to install a low range reduction gear at the moment as well. However I could save on that and put it towards an Auto.

I totally believe ya, cobber... just I must be missing something for Brunnies to want $10 big ones...

I don't get it and I don't know what I'm missing.

Maybe try a few of the performance Auto Tranny joints over your way for a price. I mean to say they do the 4l80's for cars that have 750 or more RWHP every day of the week. If the box and engine length is the same as factory so no driveshaft work is involved then it won't matter a rats if it is a Patrol or a Commodore if you supply the Transfer Case adapter.

The Patrol would need a different stall speed etc on the TC but that isn't a show stopper

[FNQGU]

Might have touched on this in another thread, but since I installed a Redarc Battery Management System with a temp gauge on the Aux Battery, I have been very concerned about the heat from the exhaust. Around town I was constantly getting temps of 38-39 degrees, and during a test run where I worked the engine hard up some slow dirt tracks in 4WD, the battery heated up to 48 degrees.

Yesterday I fashioned up a bit of a heat guard and drilled some air holes in the battery box as well.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140120_184131_295_zpst0b0vf4r.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140120_184131_295_zpst0b0vf4r.jpg.html)

I am a bit dubious as to whether this will make a whole lot of difference or not. If it doesn't, then I am down to doing something else with the exhaust or moving the battery.

Well…. the heat guard made no difference what-so-ever. Maybe half a degree if I was lucky. Temps driving around town hit 39 again today. Tomorrow I head off for three days with the eldest daughter for a camping/fishing trip which will involve highway, dirt roads and 4wdriving and should be a good test of just how hot the bloody batteries will get. Am already starting to think I will have to do something major to rectify this.

[Ian2011]

looks like you have access to a nice workshop there

[Ian2011]

You could try some heat wrap arount the exhaust, that may reduce the heat around the battery area.

[FNQGU]

Yeah, after hours I am able to use it no worries. Bloody handy that's for sure.

Re the exhaust wrap - I have wrapped the area immediately adjacent to the battery, but really the whole area gets hot from radiating heat and I probably need to wrap a good six feet of exhaust for it to work at all.

I was just told that there is a spray on ceramic type coating that can be used to keep the heat inside the pipe. I haven't researched this yet, but I'm thinking it is a job for a pro and might be expensive.

Makes me wonder what the engine bay temperature gets to as well.

[PMC]

G'day gents,

I have finally made up my mind to sell my current 4.2 turbo diesel patrol wagon and head down the chev Patrol path. After my recuperation from my recent bowel surgery, i will put back my Patrol to its original factory set-up and sell the vehicle.

At present i have an opportunity to purchase a 2003 Patrol with a 6.5 turbo intercooled motor with an auto gearbox set-up.

PS, i will keep you all informed on my progress, firstly i have to properly from my surgery!

Regards,

RLI

[FNQGU]

Going on your past performance, I can't wait to see what you end up doing to it….

[PMC]

Going on your past performance, I can't wait to see what you end up doing to it….

G'day BenK,

You know me mate, i have to know the inner workings of things and them make them perform better. lol

Regards,

RLI

[FNQGU]

The first thing you might want to do is get the Auxiliary Battery mounted somewhere other than under the vehicle right beside the exhaust. It won't fit in the engine bay with the side mounted turbo, but on my last little highway run and off road camping trip, the exhaust is heating my battery up to 48 and 49 degrees. I now have a piece of that air-cell silver insulation in there as well, but nothing I make or put in there to shield it from the heat seems to be working. I am now considering pulling it out altogether but don't know where I can put it as I have a set of draws in the cargo area.

I think I need to talk to some exhaust specialists, or I will be shortening one of the drawers somehow and mounting the battery in behind.

[PMC]

The first thing you might want to do is get the Auxiliary Battery mounted somewhere other than under the vehicle right beside the exhaust. It won't fit in the engine bay with the side mounted turbo, but on my last little highway run and off road camping trip, the exhaust is heating my battery up to 48 and 49 degrees. I now have a piece of that air-cell silver insulation in there as well, but nothing I make or put in there to shield it from the heat seems to be working. I am now considering pulling it out altogether but don't know where I can put it as I have a set of draws in the cargo area.

I think I need to talk to some exhaust specialists, or I will be shortening one of the drawers somehow and mounting the battery in behind.

G'day Ben,

Is it possible for you to take a series of photo's of your engine bay? That way i can some idea of what you are up against. I am starting to disassemble my TD42 Turbo diesel, one item i will be fitting to my Chev, will be the Cross Country intercooler. Thats why i am curious to see what space you have in your engine bay.

Regards,

Paul

[FNQGU]

G'day Ben,

Is it possible for you to take a series of photo's of your engine bay? That way i can some idea of what you are up against. I am starting to disassemble my TD42 Turbo diesel, one item i will be fitting to my Chev, will be the Cross Country intercooler. Thats why i am curious to see what space you have in your engine bay.


Regards,

Paul

Yeah, no worries. Will get a couple of pics up today for you.

[FNQGU]

Here you go, let me know if there is anything specific you want to see.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140127_113650_488_zpslwqmb7hu.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140127_113650_488_zpslwqmb7hu.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140127_113707_517_zpsldb023ls.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140127_113707_517_zpsldb023ls.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140127_113728_052_zpsrtsuwhsl.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140127_113728_052_zpsrtsuwhsl.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_20140127_113751_236_zpsbymkxj8x.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_20140127_113751_236_zpsbymkxj8x.jpg.html)

[threedogs]

Cant fit a smaller style DC battery like they do in the Tojos
IMO I'd be fitting a false floor and house a few batteries there
small price to pay for the conversion, use two Optima as you
can lay them down. Go to a battery place they have heaps of different shaped batteries

[FNQGU]

Where do you fit this false floor mate?

[PMC]

Ten grand for install of a 4L85E at Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns, I just double checked. Gryphon work with/for Brunswick, so I'd guess it would be same price over that side of Aus.

I don't know whether it would be worth getting the 4L85 over the 4L80 or not, nor what the price difference is.

I do however have access to a mate with a hoist and mechanical ability, so if a reco gearbox was not a big job, then that is what I will consider doing. I have been very close to wanting to install a low range reduction gear at the moment as well. However I could save on that and put it towards an Auto.

G'day Ben,

Ten thousand dollars is a lot of money mate. After conducting my research into auto gearboxes from the US, i can purchase either a 5 or 6 speed fully rebuilt Allison gearbox from the states for $2,500 It would only cost about a $1,000 to ship out to Australia. Marks adapters supply the adaptor for the Nissan Transfer-box to fit the Allison which is $1150.00. The Allison is a very strong gearbox.

Regards,

RLI

[FNQGU]

Thanks that is good to know.

I've heard the Allison box is a good one, and a six speed would be great and would make Highlander jealous…

I don't know a lot about the workings of the Allison auto, but will start having a look and will maybe chat to you about this option shortly. At the moment I am playing with the idea of chopping the wagon and adding a custom pod to better manage storage of camping gear. I don't want to extend the chassis or anything though, just want a well thought out storage area, where I can also store my house batteries. The Auto box might be able to slide in there sometime around the same time if I work things right.

[Gecko17]

Thanks that is good to know.

I've heard the Allison box is a good one, and a six speed would be great and would make Highlander jealous…

I don't know a lot about the workings of the Allison auto, but will start having a look and will maybe chat to you about this option shortly. At the moment I am playing with the idea of chopping the wagon and adding a custom pod to better manage storage of camping gear. I don't want to extend the chassis or anything though, just want a well thought out storage area, where I can also store my house batteries. The Auto box might be able to slide in there sometime around the same time if I work things right.

When I was tossing up whether to get an auto trans, I asked about the Allison gearboxes and was told that the 5 speeds were brilliant but that the 6 speed had some issues. I'm back up at site but will try and make a few more inquires re the 6 speed and see if it is just Chinese Whispers.

@RLI, I ended up getting the 4L80E from Brunswick for 11k. Great box but am still trying to get to grips with the electronic program that drives it! If you have researched the Allison 6 speed box, then I dear say that you are way ahead of me already.

[PMC]

When I was tossing up whether to get an auto trans, I asked about the Allison gearboxes and was told that the 5 speeds were brilliant but that the 6 speed had some issues. I'm back up at site but will try and make a few more inquires re the 6 speed and see if it is just Chinese Whispers.

@RLI, I ended up getting the 4L80E from Brunswick for 11k. Great box but am still trying to get to grips with the electronic program that drives it! If you have researched the Allison 6 speed box, then I dear say that you are way ahead of me already.

G'evening Highlander,

I have done a lot of research from the US and your are right regarding the 6 speed Allison gearbox. However, there are simple remedies to help stop possible problems. The following article might be of help to folks contemplating installing an Allison gearbox.

[I]"The 1000/M74 is a very heavy duty automatic overdrive transmission built by Allison Transmission. It is primarily used behind the powerful Duramax diesel engine found in many later model GMC and Chevy trucks. It can also be found on GM chassis under custom motor homes, buses and other heavy duty vehicles. While this is a very heavy duty transmission, it is not without faults and problems. Let’s take a look at the 1000/M74 transmission.

Common Problems:

Electrical: The 1000/M74 transmission is loaded with electrical components. It incorporates multiple electrical solenoids and sensors, not to mention a fairly complex wire harness. All electrical transmissions suffer from similar problems. Solenoids often fail. They either develop an internal short, or end up with a break in the internal wiring that makes up the electrical magnet in the solenoid. Sensors can go bad for a number of reasons. Excessive heat or vibration can destroy them. Improper grounding can also cause them to malfunction. Excessive heat, driving conditions and age can destroy the wire harnesses.

Overheating: By far the biggest problem with this transmission is overheating. This is not the manufacturers fault. Overheating is usually caused by the vehicle owner. They tow loads way heavier than the maximum recommended limit. They also load their vehicle with more payload than is recommended. Doing either will put tremendous strain and stress on the transmission. Clutches and bands will sometime slip in server instances, creating excessive heat. Keep in mind that these transmissions are designed to run at a maximum temperature of 200 degrees. Every 20 degree about this temperature will cut the life span of the transmission by a factor of two.

Lack of maintenance: All vehicles come with recommended maintenance intervals. The problem is that most owners pay no attention to them. Filters get clogged over time and restrict the flow of transmission fluid. Transmission fluid breaks down over time and the result is a fluid that loses its hydraulic properties and ability to lubricate the transmission correctly.

Want to make your transmission last longer? Who doesn’t? Here are a few recommended upgrades:

Fluid upgrade: Your transmission comes from the factory with an organically derived transmission fluid. It is specifically designed to meet strict requirements. Over time it will break down from the many heating and cooling cycles it endures on a daily basis. Therefore, I recommend you upgrade to a synthetic fluid. Synthetic fluids are designed not to break down like organic fluids. Just be sure to replace your organic fluid with a synthetic fluid that has the same properties as the original OEM fluid.

Deep pan: Install a deep pan. The extra fluid will help keep the fluid a little cooler. The fluid will also last a little longer before it needs to be replaced.

Oil Cooler: Buy an aftermarket transmission cooler. A good rule is the bigger the better. Excessive heat is by far the number one killer of all automatic transmissions, and this transmission is no exception. Additionally, you can buy an aftermarket cooler that comes equipped with its own electrical fan. This will provide addition protect from overheating the transmission.

The 1000/M74 transmission is a great transmission. You should get years of trouble free service and reliability from it as long as you adhere to the information we provide. - See more at: http://etereman.com/blog/general-motors-automatic/common-issues-with-the-1000m74-transmission/#sthash.mKQQ5UMf.dpuf"

Kind regards,

RLI

[PMC]

G'evening lads,

A good source of info on the Chev V8 diesels are the following books;

1. Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost (designing,testing and installing turbocharger systems!) This is a must read for those of you contemplating a turbo upgrade, building a torque pulling touring vehicle or those that are after competition horse power! Highly recommended!

2. Joe Pettitt book High-Performance Diesel Builders Guide.

3. Ben Watson book titled Diesel Performance Handbook for Pickups and SUVs.

Regards,

RLI

[FNQGU]

Thanks mate, good info.

Are you considering doing an Allison 6 speed yourself?

[Gecko17]

@RLI- Thanks for that Paul! to combat overheating on my trans, I upgraded to an oil cooler from Kenworth. Didn't know that I could also enlarge the oil pan on the trans though but a bloody great idea. One of the things I was also told was that one major problem in overheating was people blocking the airflow to the cooler fins, whether by placing (usually) great big spot lights in front or some other such thing. Will you go for the Allison 6-speed box? I would've had I not been warned off, and benny's right. I will be very envious if you do... Best of luck in whatever you decide.

@BenK-I had to laugh when I saw the photos of your engine bay... I was thinking 'How did someone get photos of my engine bay?' :D

[threedogs]

Where do you fit this false floor mate?

I'd fit a false floor in the cargo area, or if you are going to keep the Patrol cut the floor and recess a battery box that way some how.
then the false floor wouldn't need to be as high. That's what I'd be doing even a triple battery set up if your alternator is 100amp.
How much room under passengers feet easy to make a drop in box for there, just throwing out Ideas,

[the evil twin]

Smick result there 3D

[tallman]

Roughly what would it cost do to a conversion?

[Robo]

Another thing for people considering a Chev conversion to check out first is insurance. AAMI didn't want to know me any longer, despite having a rating 1, being over 40 without any accidents, having done several driver training and 4wd courses etc. they dropped me like a hot rock. RACQ also wanted nothing to do with it.

I could only find two insurance companies who would take it on and I went with Shannon's as they were half the price of the other mob. Shannon's also recognized Brunswick Diesel which lowered the premium somewhat I think. I think my premium is around $650 or so for fully comprehensive, which reminds me, I think I need to tell them about a few extras now too. The second mob (I have forgotten now) wanted $1500/year!!!


Sent from my iPad using Motorculture mobile app

Love Shannon's they are good.
last I noticed is GIO underwrite them.
but try GIO for same policy and they are more expensive!! go figure.

[FNQGU]

Yeah, you know, when I first rang them for a quote, and told them what I had under the bonnet, they said they weren't interested. Then a bloke actually rang me back and asked me if the conversion was one of the Brunswick jobs as he had heard about them. When i said it was, he said they would insure me no dramas. Just Cars was the only other one who was interested and they were twice the price.

[FNQGU]

Roughly what would it cost do to a conversion?

Sit down before reading further….

Mine was $32K but I have heard they are up a bit from that now. Around $35K. It is expensive, so you have to REALLY want to do it. For the price though, they do cover off on a lot of other extra stuff to make it a nice package. Have a look on their website for the list of upgrades and changes they do.

Brunswick also installed my front locker for nothing because they had the diffs out anyway. I upgraded suspension while doing it all too. I supplied the shocks and they put them in, same for the locker. Actually, they were probably sick of me by the time I had finished with them with all the little things I wanted changed or upgraded.

[Gecko17]

I tried looking for an old email I had from Brunswick, outlining all of the things and parts involved in the conversion, but couldn't find it. The email was about 3-4 years old and long story short, it came to $30,000 plus they said that I would have to change my transmission to handle the torque, for another $3000.

I bought my truck, already done and IMO, is the best way to get it.

[Ian2011]

Just wondering what people think about the Brunswick airbox setup. I am not convinced its the best and would be interested to see if there are any different setups out there

[FNQGU]

Ian, I actually found my air box leaked when playing in the mud. The leak was the riveted bottom edges too so I siliconed them all up. I was missing the rubber curtain (spray deflector, or whatever it is called) on the inside of my wheel arch on the passengers side and the bottom of the air box must have been copping a lot of water spray.

[Ian2011]

I too have that problem Ben, noticed it a few times when I go to clean the filter and the inside of the box has water/mud spray on the inside of the box. Maybe its time to replace that rubber. Not convinced that the airbox/filter setup allows the maximum airflow through the traditional snorkel, might have to get a 4in pipe jobby made for it.

[FNQGU]

Yes, have pondered the larger snorkel myself. I don't know if it would make a difference or not though.

I fitted up a new piece of rubber in the wheel arch and no longer have a filthy engine bay all the time. Actually think that the water was being thrown up onto the thermo fan and then flung around everywhere. Much better now.

My main issue at the moment is still the temperature that the aux battery is getting to (48-49 degrees when touring and off-road). I am considering some custom exhaust mods and have been in touch with both Scotts Rods and Taipan about it. Both recommend a 3.5" mandrel bent setup, and Taipan were keen to ceramic coat it to assist with temps. At the end of the day though, I am probably better off moving the aux battery somewhere else and still need to give more thought to this.

[the evil twin]

I owe BenK an apology in regard to our discussions about 4L80/4L85 conversions.
With my left foot getting more gammy every day trying to dance that godawful clutch is getting darn painful.
Soooo... I rang up and got a firm quote for the conversion.

It appears that Brunnies do a fair bit "over and above" a "simple" conversion with extras like twin tranny coolers with eleccy fans etc etc. and the drive shafts do need reworking and balancing (unfortunately)

By the time I had totalled up what Brunswicks included then the wrong side of 10 grand gets there pretty quickly if you aren't doing any of it yourself. With a dud left peg it looks like the bank manager is gunna be a tad pissed at me sooner rather than later...

So, onya BenK, your numbers were waaay closer than mine. I shouldn't have doubted that or relied on the bloody Internet. Prick of a thing was wrong yet again

[Gecko17]

I owe BenK an apology in regard to our discussions about 4L80/4L85 conversions.
With my left foot getting more gammy every day trying to dance that godawful clutch is getting darn painful.
Soooo... I rang up and got a firm quote for the conversion.

It appears that Brunnies do a fair bit "over and above" a "simple" conversion with extras like twin tranny coolers with eleccy fans etc etc. and the drive shafts do need reworking and balancing (unfortunately)

By the time I had totalled up what Brunswicks included then the wrong side of 10 grand gets there pretty quickly if you aren't doing any of it yourself. With a dud left peg it looks like the bank manager is gunna be a tad pissed at me sooner rather than later...

So, onya BenK, your numbers were waaay closer than mine. I shouldn't have doubted that or relied on the bloody Internet. Prick of a thing was wrong yet again


If you are in WA, near Perth, ET and want to see how the 4L80E goes, you are welcome to try mine.

[the evil twin]

If you are in WA, near Perth, ET and want to see how the 4L80E goes, you are welcome to try mine.

Wow, thanks dude... I hope it goes gangbusters 'cause I have already pulled the trigger and a brand new crate 4L85e is going in.

Soooo, even tho it's to late and I am committed anyway, how do you like yours... and was it a manual before the auto conversion or have you only driven it with an auto?

[FNQGU]

I owe BenK an apology in regard to our discussions about 4L80/4L85 conversions.
With my left foot getting more gammy every day trying to dance that godawful clutch is getting darn painful.
Soooo... I rang up and got a firm quote for the conversion.

It appears that Brunnies do a fair bit "over and above" a "simple" conversion with extras like twin tranny coolers with eleccy fans etc etc. and the drive shafts do need reworking and balancing (unfortunately)

By the time I had totalled up what Brunswicks included then the wrong side of 10 grand gets there pretty quickly if you aren't doing any of it yourself. With a dud left peg it looks like the bank manager is gunna be a tad pissed at me sooner rather than later...

So, onya BenK, your numbers were waaay closer than mine. I shouldn't have doubted that or relied on the bloody Internet. Prick of a thing was wrong yet again

No dramas at all, and no apology needed. I am very keen to see what you think of it though. Have been distracted lately and haven't had much time to play with the idea any further, but it is still there in the back of my mind as something that I might need to do. Same with a chop and a custom pod....

[Gecko17]

Wow, thanks dude... I hope it goes gangbusters 'cause I have already pulled the trigger and a brand new crate 4L85e is going in.

Soooo, even tho it's to late and I am committed anyway, how do you like yours... and was it a manual before the auto conversion or have you only driven it with an auto?

I bought the patrol, already converted with the 6.5l Brunswick, and it had a manual gearbox. When you took off, you were lucky if you got 20m before you had to change in to 2nd gear! I felt like I wanted to take off in 2nd but didn't want to do any damage.

I got Brunswick to fit the new 4L80E auto for me and I farkin love it! It is a fully electronic and programmable gearbox and the only issue I have is that the rev ratio/ change rate in 1st gear still hasn't been smoothed out. As it is programmable, and I have the manual to read up on how to do it, it is now jaut a case of me getting off my butt and sorting it out. (Hopefully.)

IMO... it's still way better than the manual gearbox!

[the evil twin]

I bought the patrol, already converted with the 6.5l Brunswick, and it had a manual gearbox. When you took off, you were lucky if you got 20m before you had to change in to 2nd gear! I felt like I wanted to take off in 2nd but didn't want to do any damage.

I got Brunswick to fit the new 4L80E auto for me and I farkin love it! It is a fully electronic and programmable gearbox and the only issue I have is that the rev ratio/ change rate in 1st gear still hasn't been smoothed out. As it is programmable, and I have the manual to read up on how to do it, it is now jaut a case of me getting off my butt and sorting it out. (Hopefully.)

IMO... it's still way better than the manual gearbox!

Awesome news... just plain awesome

I agree with you about the manual ratios i think I have used 1st about 3 times since I've had the truck... but teh Chevy is such a low revving critter thats life I guess.

What sort of fuel figures are you seeing with the auto?

[Gecko17]

Awesome news... just plain awesome

I agree with you about the manual ratios i think I have used 1st about 3 times since I've had the truck... but teh Chevy is such a low revving critter thats life I guess.

What sort of fuel figures are you seeing with the auto?

I have been getting between 16-23l/100km... haven't been able to take it on holiday yet. Damn work. While I'm away, the War Office takes it to work, about 90km round trip per day and seems to be getting good milage on it. When I checked and got 23l/100km, I had had a play day in the dunes so used quite a bit there... Hoping to get away over Easter so will let you know.

[the evil twin]

Picked up my truck today with the 4L85 fitted (plus some other unrelated work done).

Awesome improvement to driveability... just plain AWESOME.

Yeah it was a lot of cabbage but Pfft the truck is now fun to drive not a chore.

[FNQGU]

What are your revs now on the highway ET?

How is the change between 1st and 2nd that Gecko was whinging about?

[the evil twin]

What are your revs now on the highway ET?

How is the change between 1st and 2nd that Gecko was whinging about?

Highway revs in 4th with TC locked running 305/70R16 Cooper ST's (near new) at 110 KPH are near enough to 2050 on the tacho.
The speed is dead accurate (triple redundant GPS) but I don't know how accurate the tacho is.
I haven't done the mathematics to see what the RPM should theoretically be.
I have a set of 315/75R16 Hankook MT's going on soon and hope to see around 1850.

I am still getting the feel for the box and it is also a brand new crate box not a reco so it probably deserves a bit of a run in period.
I'm going to sit on my hands for 5,000 K's or so then I'll start dicking with the programming.
If I had to make a preliminary call it would be that the low ratio changes are OK but it drops from 4th to 3rd too early and the TC unlocks to easily for my taste

[the evil twin]

Update...
Put the 315/75 Hankooks on last night and went for a blatt on the highway and then drove to work this morning in traffic.
RPM at 100 KPH 1725, RPM at 110 KPH 1800.
Bigger drop than I was expecting but Coopers 305/70 are closer to 32's so makes sense I spose.
The vehile manners in traffic are a huge improvement, that heavy clutch was a total PIA

Very, very happy chappy am I... need to do a bit of work on the brakes tho... she doesn't like stopping with those 35's

[FNQGU]

You taken it for a play in any rough stuff yet?

[the evil twin]

You taken it for a play in any rough stuff yet?

Nah, not yet.

To busy doing mod's...

[FNQGU]

Has anyone done anything with the exhaust for these engines yet? The exhaust that Brunswick stuck on mine is a 3", but doesn't have mandrel bends in it, so I'm wondering if anyone has changed it out for something larger yet and if there was any improvement noticed.

[the evil twin]

Yours a Turbo or normally aspirated? Mine is a free running Turbo (no wastegate/BOV or whatever) so has a crossover pipe and dicking with the exhaust too much will affect the Turbo trim.

Dunno if all the Turbo Brunnies are set up that way or not... mind you twin turbos to 3 inch stacks on a Ute with a Duramax or Cummins would be bloody awesome

[FNQGU]

Mine's the Garret GT35 turbo'd version.

My neighbour is a Turbo engineer actually and he also reckons a twin turbo setup on the Chev would be awesome.

[Gecko17]

Mine's the Garret GT35 turbo'd version.

My neighbour is a Turbo engineer actually and he also reckons a twin turbo setup would also be awesome.

Jeeezzz! Can you imagine these bloody things with 2 turbos?!?!? I was up in the dunes the other day and its bloody great with just 1...

Going by the photos you posted of yours Ben, I'd say mine is the same as yours.

[FNQGU]

Yeah, I've got no complaints in the torque department either. I'm just about to pull the trigger on the 4L85E install. Out of interest, I was just reading how you can get a custom job done on the 4L80 & 85 to make them six speed too! Used in a lot of US muscle cars and racers by the looks of it.

Got to sort out some sound proofing and some interior stuff first, then get the diffs protected before taking a look at getting the slush box fitted up and sorting my low range for more rock crawling slow work.

[the evil twin]

Hiya BenK,

Whoever does the install for you ask them about a few things like;
Will they fit the optional harness so you can have "Power" and "Economy" modes
Transmission Cooler placement and
Fan switching (Thermo/Manual/Both).

Also the 4L8x trannies will not lock up the TCC in 1st gear so if you are doing serious low range crawling (which I take it you are from the post) then as you mention, you will def need to suss out a few options like a Manual Lock Up or crawler ratios so you can get away with using second or whatever.

I was reading those articles about the "Pseudo 6 speed" 4L's as well. It kinda made my head hurt a bit and I couldn't understand exactly what they are doing but is seems to involve higher pressure valve bodies and hard lock ups of the TCC.
Might be well worth exploring later.
I toyed with the idea of a 6L to get that awesomely low 1st gear and 2 overdriven ratios but they are a physically much bigger unit and the 4L took enough modding to fit so I said bugger it

I was going to wait a few months before I dick with my Tranny proggies but my fingers are itching to play with the TCC lock up settings in 2nd and 3rd.
That is because Brunnies default settings are with TCC lock up only in 4th.
The down side is you have to be careful as the Yanks reckon if you use TCC to much for engine braking in the low gears the 2nd and 3rd overrun clutches can burn out.
They are talking about seriously more HP and Torque in waaaay heavier trucks than we are tho so I am will ing to give it a go when I get my Tranny Instrumentation sorted out

[FNQGU]

They don't fit the Power / Economy functions and said it would be extra if you really want it, but that it had very little if any benefits in real life driving.

Fan switching can also be done, and sounds like a good idea, along with a Tranny Fluid Temp gauge.

They did offer a choice of three different ECM's though. The install comes with the standard GM unit but there were two other far more complex modules that can be ordered and fitted if wanted. Cost goes up to about 2 grand for the system from Wholesale Automatics, and it was 1700 for the other one. Not sure I need to get fancy with this though so will probably just stick with the simpler GM version and use their software to tune it up to how I want it.

The Transmission Cooler unit gets mounted up in front of the radiator. Hopefully there is room, it looks pretty jammed to me.

To be honest with you, I am still trying to understand how the Torque Converter Clutch lockup works and how it would be advantageous in gears other than 4th for that overdrive economy. If I fit a reduction gear in the transfer case, and then select First or Second Low, it should cover my 'go-real-slow' needs wouldn't it? Are you referring to the ability to hold it in any gear you want for differing driving conditions?

[the evil twin]

Going "uphill" is no problem, its the down that may worry you

The 4L trannies "freewheel" in 1/2/3 and in 4th when the TCC isn't engaged and the TPS is 0.
In my vehicle with teh default proggy when you lift the foot it coasts IE you can be doing 80 K's or going down hill and pull the shifter back to 3rd, 2nd or 1st and there is absolutely no engine braking.
The truck keeps coasting along, very disconcerting initially.

The 4L's don't have a gear "hold" setup either so if you select, say 3rd it will shift 1,2 and 3 but not go into 4
In a Tranny that will Hold a gear that is the only gear it will use.
Sooo if you are in say 3rd and going down a hill and lift the foot the TPS goes to 0, the RPM's drop to idleish and the vehicle just goes quicker due to good old gravity

That is why I want to proggy the TCC to softly lock up in 2nd and 3rd

[FNQGU]

Sh!t, didn't realise that. I tend to rely quite heavily on engine braking as I am sure we all do. I'm going to try and go for a drive in a vehicle fitted up with the 4L85 in the next few days so i'll suss out the whole setup.

Have you got a temp gauge fitted? I take it that if you want the option of running the fan in manual mode, that you must have a gauge to give you the heads up on when it is time to flick it on?

[the evil twin]

Sh!t, didn't realise that. I tend to rely quite heavily on engine braking as I am sure we all do. I'm going to try and go for a drive in a vehicle fitted up with the 4L85 in the next few days so i'll suss out the whole setup.

Have you got a temp gauge fitted? I take it that if you want the option of running the fan in manual mode, that you must have a gauge to give you the heads up on when it is time to flick it on?

1st gear is no different to any other Auto regards engine braking.
2nd and 3rd are different "out of the box" but only due to the programming as the TCC operation is left up to the user to set up.
The reason for that is the yanks are looking at normal use as being fanging along the road and when you want to slow down you use the brake.
Sooo... they want to let the engine idle at 0 TPS to save fuel.
If you ask the installer they will proggy it for your requirements.

Still researching the various options for temp monitoring and auto switching of the Cooler Fan.
Brunnies are adamant that for 4WD use and light towing the 4L85 with it's larger pump will absolutely eat anything we throw at it.
The Yanks are using more power coupled to 3 to maybe 4 times the loads we are.
Anyway, will probably go with a Watchdog solution or similar with temp readout, fan switchig and overtemp alarm.
Mainly because I cant be stuffed cobbling together my own setup between now and the Simmo trip.

[T-roy86]

My 2004 3ltr Gu blew up and im looking at putting another engine in. Was looking at 4.2 but its hard and expensive because mine is auto any recommendations on chev engines and a rough price ill be looking at to get 1 fitted. Also im from s.a if anyone knows people who do this kind of work here. Thanks

[Gecko17]

@ ET... is there much difference between the 4L80E and 4L85E?

[the evil twin]

@ ET... is there much difference between the 4L80E and 4L85E?

4L80
Input Torque 440 Ft/Lbs
Output Torque 885 Ft/Lbs
Vehicle GVM 8,000 Lbs
4 Pinion Gearsets

4L85
Input Torque 480 Ft/Lbs
Output Torque 885 Ft/Lbs
Vehicle GVM 16,000 Lbs
Towing capacity 22,000 Lbs
5 Pinion gearsets

NB specs vary by minor amounts depending on year of manuf and phase of the moon, the above are sort of an average that I found when researching.

I bought the '85 for two reasons.
Firstly it was a brand new crate tranny and secondly I will probably be looking at significantly heavier towing in 4 to 5 years or so

[FNQGU]

Am waiting to speak to Wholesale Automatics again tomorrow, but I do like the sound of the manual TCC switch as an addition, plus a temp gauge. Was out for a drive today in the forestry tracks and coming back home from any direction into Cairns involves coming down a winding range. Found myself sitting in 3rd for most of it with the odd touch on the brakes. I reckon being able to hold gears going downhill with an Auto would be how I'd want to drive it.

Gecko - have you played with the programming on yours yet?

@ T-roy86 - mate, if a 4.2 is too expensive, then sit down for the pricing on a new chev. If you want to go for a crate TD version, then allow $35K installed, if you go to Brunswick in Perth. I haven't heard of anyone in SA, but there could be someone doing it. Wholesale Automatics will sell you an upgraded Valve Body for your Auto that they reckon will handle the Chev no worries. I think price is around $850, so factor that in as well. Brunswick will do reco motors a whole lot cheaper, and also if the engine is non-turbo'd it will be cheaper again. Have a chat to them about your options if you are interested. Also ring around for insurance BEFORE you do it so you know what you are in for. Most here found Shannon's the cheapest.

[the evil twin]

snip...
I do like the sound of the manual TCC switch as an addition, plus a temp gauge.
snip...
I reckon being able to hold gears going downhill with an Auto would be how I'd want to drive it.



A manual lockup is the absolute ducks guts.
I put one on my TB42 Auto and it essentially turns the box into a manual as far as engine braking is concerned and drops the gearbox temp by heaps when towing or down the beach.
There are some circuits around with speed sensing etc etc but I kept it simple.
An "arming" toggle switch on the centre console, an old school foot dip switch on the floor by the left foot rest to engage/disengage and an LED reminder on the dash to show when it was engaged.
All up cost was less than $30

I pulled the trigger on Ebay for an Engine Guardian style dual input temp indication, warning and fan controller... $169 delivered
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181187370424?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

There are several programs on the net showing TCC lock-up in 2nd and 3rd for the guys doing a lot of towing.
They are using 60 to 70% PWM at 0 TPS ramping down to 0 PWM at 10% TPS.
IE the TCC is almost but not fully locked at 0 throttle but releases by 10%.
They are doing that not so much for engine braking but to keep the revs up for the climb up the other side of the Hill.

The main problem I have with info from America is that most Forums are orientated to using their trucks as haulers not 4WD's in our sense of the activity or fully the other way where they are using them as extreme 4WD

My only concern with the 4L8x series boxes is the Yanks and their discussions with the overrun clutch's burning out if you get too aggressive with Engine Braking IE fully locked TCC with 0% throttle...
BUT...
we aren't using anything like the GVM that they are, indeed, I reckon we may be only 50% or less so the loads on teh clutch packs must be heaps less.

[FNQGU]

LOL - too much info ET. You are confusing the shit out of me, which isn't hard when it comes to technical stuff... Are you saying that some programs can give 60-70% engine braking when you take your foot off the accelerator, and as you start to accelerate it drops off at the 10% mark?

Manual lockup switch sounds like the plan.

Engine Guardian looks interesting...I'll watch with interest to see what you think.

[the evil twin]

ROFL... bad habit of mine.

You can program the Lock Up and where it occurs between 0 to 100% of TPS at whatever speed.
The tranny "programs" are presented as tables so you can set (for example) in 2nd gear the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) locks at 0% throttle above 20 KPH
This means that if you are coasting down hill with foot off throttle faster than 20KPH in 2nd the TCC will lock and give you engine braking.

Your next step in the tables might be (still for 2nd gear) 10% throttle above 40 KPH, 20% 40 KPH, 30% 45 KPH, 40% 50 KPH etc
This means that when you open the throttle at the bottom of the hill the TCC now unlocks allowing the Torque Converter to do it's thing.
Now assuming you stay in second and accelerate to, say, 45 KPH and the TPS is 30% or less (IE you aren't flogging up the next hill) then the TCC will lock again.
Push the throttle past 30% or drop below 45 KPH and the TCC will unlock because you obviously want more power.

Unrelated to Chevy's but us patrollers are used to the magic 80 KPH figure.
That is where most of the Patrol Auto's are proggy'd to lock up the TCC in OD if the TPS is telling you it is "cruising"

[FNQGU]

Just had a yarn with Wholesale Automatics, who actually recommend a rebuilt Nissan RE4 transmission with upgraded Torque Converter and Valve Body as opposed to the Chev unit. They say that the Nissan Auto once upgraded, trounces the 4L80 series gearing for 4wdriving, and also for reliability issues. Will keep researching and am waiting for a bit more info from them.

[Gecko17]

Just had a yarn with Wholesale Automatics, who actually recommend a rebuilt Nissan RE4 transmission with upgraded Torque Converter and Valve Body as opposed to the Chev unit. They say that the Nissan Auto once upgraded, trounces the 4L80 series gearing for 4wdriving, and also for reliability issues. Will keep researching and am waiting for a bit more info from them.

I was told the same thing. The reason I went with the chev was that it was way cheaper, new and I didn't have to fly,twice, to Melbourne.

@ BenK, have only played around with the CompuShift II a little bit as have no idea really what I'm doing... was hoping to catch up with ET to see what he'd done/recommended.

[FNQGU]

I'm actually thinking about giving this install a crack myself with a bit of assistance over beers from a mechanic mate. Might force myself to learn about automatics...

Quote today was as follows:
Cost for a Heavy Duty Extreme Fully Reconditioned Nissan 4 Speed RE4R03A Overdrive Automatic Transmission with Heavy Duty Extreme Valve Body & Double Kiln Bronzed Torque Convertor all Pre-dyno Tested is $5100 inc gst.

Comes with: Bell Housing and Filler Tube/Dip Stick

Required Options:
2 X Extra Large Oil Cooler $195 inc gst (each)
5 Meters Of Heavy Duty 10mm ID Cooler Hose $88
4 X Stainless Steel Hose Clamps $12 “set”
6.5L Complete Drive Plate Assembly $195
Factory T.Bar Assembly with Centre Console Assembly (second hand) $540
Automatic Pedal Pad and Plate Box $85
Stand Alone Transmission ECU $1995

The ECU is the Compushift II which is an expensive bit, but adds a lot of options for setting it up right and monitoring everything. Comes with:
*Wiring Harness
*Dash Display/Programmer
*Choose Between Full Manual Or Full Automatic At The Touch Of A Button
*Lock-Up Manual Control for 100% Engine Braking At The Touch Of A Button
*New Inhibitor Switch
*New Revolution Sensor
*Built In Temp Gauge
*Australian Back Up & Technical Support

Not sure where to mount the twin oil coolers though. The area in front of my radiator looks pretty bloody cluttered as it is. Where have you guys got your coolers mounted? I have heard of coolers being mounted beneath vehicles but I'd be wary of airflow and damage issues.

[FNQGU]

Again looking at the space in front of my radiator. On the Drivers side I have the aircon condenser and in front of it is the engine oil cooler. On the passengers side is a thermo fan for the radiator.

I just went for a spin in a 2004 GU with a Chev and Auto conversion, and in his setup there is no Thermo fan, just his Transmission Fluid cooler, oil cooler and aircon condenser. He has the stock 4L85E and has had it in for about 12 months. He doesn't have a Transmission Oil temp gauge, but claims it has never had an overheating problem. I don't think I like the idea of having no Thermo fan though, and instead I am thinking I'll mock up a dummy tranny cooler for size, and will work on making some brackets to try and fit the cooler between the radiator and the thermo fan before I pull the trigger on doing the auto. Might have to change the Thermo fan out for a slimmer model too, but will look at that as I go.

And while I am at it, I might as well fit that reduction gear in the transfer case too... Hopefully Love Key70 has some more of those 63% gears ready soon.

[the evil twin]

I have the Engine watch dog on mine as of yesterday...
My coolers are up under the tray with minimal air flow so have a fan fitted.

In the small amount of K's so far with the Fans turned off so I can set the warning temps...

The engine warms up and then doesn;t move more than a few degrees.

The 4L85 with the TCC locked and cruising at 110 KPH sits on 55 degrees (tranny temp not fluid)
Working in traffic and urban stop/go it gets to 65 degrees pretty quick then stabilises at that.
Turning the Fans on doesn't do a thing... this could be because of how the tranny ports the fluid IE I need to find out if there is a thermo arrangement in the tranny controlling fluid paths or if it sends 100% of the fluid thru the cooler no matter what.

I haven't had a big load in the back and I haven't done any loooooong hillclimbs yet

At those temps the Tranny is only just warming up and thats with bugger all airflow thru the cooler

[FNQGU]

Cheers mate, good info.

With your Auto install, how close does the crossover exhaust (my term) get past the auto pan?

eg. on my manual box it sits like this. I imagine the auto pan gets very bloody close to it or the exhaust has been modified somewhat.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/IMG_20140515_171957_648_zpszegvay7x.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/IMG_20140515_171957_648_zpszegvay7x.jpg.html)

I have had a good look at the space in front of my radiator, and am more inclined to fit the twin oil coolers for the tranny fluid just in behind the bull bar on each side in this space, if I can knock up a couple of brackets. Routing of hoses should be pretty simple I think and I can put a guard below each cooler with a few holes in it, and then add a 6" thermo fan above it to blow back through the cooler....I think....

Front of the vehicle to the left of photo.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/IMG_20140515_172038_627_zpsos9aby7d.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/IMG_20140515_172038_627_zpsos9aby7d.jpg.html)

[the evil twin]

I haven't got my Ute at the moment... it is in getting bar work, steps, scrub bars, panniers etc etc but from memory when I was under there the cross over pipe goes just under the very back of the Torque Converter and the pan for the box is behind the pipe and is also bloody enormous.

The chevy box is quite large and sits back further than the manual box so the cross member has to modified and the tailshaft shortened

[brooks]

Hullo all, I have been a member for a while now, my son & I joined together when he bought his patrol. I have now bought a 4x4 as well, unfortunately not a patrol :), a short wheel wheel base cruiser FRP top with a Brunswick 6.5L conversion done in 2005/6. I was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem to what I have experienced only a few times, problem is, when going around a corner RH down, not accelerating, just steady throttle it suddenly gives a bit of a boost. This has only happened about 3 or 4 times & could be a bit disastrous if the road is a bit wet. i was thinking maybe there is a loose wire on one of the heater coils, I can't think of anything else that would cause something like this in a diesel, the only other thing is I am just imagining this, or just too much lead in the foot as Kev says :). any help will be appreciated.
Thanks guys.

[krbrooking]

Just a quick bump for ya dad. I think it has something to do with the fact you love the sound of it and you can't help yourself. I know I wouldn't be able to. Lol.

It could have something to do with a loose wire on the injector rail and it not firing on all eight until it connects.

Sent from me using Forum Runner

[nissannewby]

Is it a full mechanical injector pump? I would imagine so as Brunswick seem to be scared of the electronic version.

[93patrol]

Dura max anybody with transmission as well

[krbrooking]

Is it a full mechanical injector pump? I would imagine so as Brunswick seem to be scared of the electronic version.

I am pretty sure it is as well man, could that be the issue.

Sent from me using Forum Runner

[nissannewby]

I am pretty sure it is as well man, could that be the issue.

Sent from me using Forum Runner

Unlikely. Do these conversions run a lift pump?

[brooks]

yea it is mechanical pump, conversion was done 2005. yea it also has a lift pump.

[nissannewby]

yea it is mechanical pump, conversion was done 2005. yea it also has a lift pump.

I would be starting with checks on the electric lift pump and all fuel lines. You may have a restriction, something could also be resting on a fuel line and going around a certain corner might relieve the line allowing the right amount of fuel. Also check the return to the tank is clear of restrictions.

[brooks]

Thanks mate, I'll check all the lines. Could be that it also needs an injector service.

[brooks]

Right, I checked all the lines, all ok, there was 1off return line that was loose so i snipped a bit off & re-fitted it, made no difference. i checked all the glow plugs with multi meter, & there were 2off that had open circuit so i'm looking for replacements, surely the glow plugs are only used on start up & if 2 were not working it would be a bit rough when cold & then improve as the engine warmed up, they wouldn't cause a surge in power if you going at a constant speed, or would i be wrong in assuming that (please say I'm wrong). The lift pump is mechanical & if the diaphragm was blown I wouldn't get any fuel.

Would anyone in WA know where I would be able to get 2 glow plugs for a 6.5L chevy, AC 11 G is the number on them. The local Auto 1 has tried numerous places including Coventry's with no luck.

[nissannewby]

These should really have an electric lift pump mate. Your right about the glow plugs too.

If you want parts for one just get them all out of the US, most parts for these are quite difficult to source here. I really don't see the attraction in these motors.

[krbrooking]

Have you tried some wreckers and/or fleabay??
By the sounds of it, it looks like it is pointing the injectors, also what about fuel blockage in the line somewhere maybe check the filter.

Sent from me using Forum Runner

[brooks]

Thanks mate.

[brooks]

Yip looking like injectors, could also be filter as it doesn't seem to have the power i expected especially at higher revs under acceleration.

[nissannewby]

Yip looking like injectors, could also be filter as it doesn't seem to have the power i expected especially at higher revs under acceleration.

That's just how they are mate. There really isn't much point revving them past about 2500rpm. The peak torque is around 1700 and is short lived. Jump on some of the yank forums and have a read. The injector pumps are not the most reliable due to their placement on the engine.

[brooks]

Wow ok, I might do that.
I changed the air & fuel filters yesterday, no change.
is it possible the governor weights in the injector pump are sticking.

[nissannewby]

How old is the engine?

[Ben-e-boy]

Mat, I have seen a 6.5 in bits and I was pretty surprised in how small things were intake wise.

The ports in the maifold and the head were much smaller than a td42, to me they look very asthmatic, it this why they have such a narrow torque band

Can they be opened up to get more air in effectively?

[nissannewby]

Mat, I have seen a 6.5 in bits and I was pretty surprised in how small things were intake wise.

The ports in the maifold and the head were much smaller than a td42, to me they look very asthmatic, it this why they have such a narrow torque band

Can they be opened up to get more air in effectively?

To be effective with a turbo the entire induction system needs a rework the manifold would need to be completely redesigned. As for the heads it could be possible to port them out and aid in air delivery. These engines can't really be lent on to hard as I believe there biggest attraction in their simplicity is their downfall. There's only so much you can get from something with pressed steel rockers and very poor engine drivetrain.

[nissannewby]

In saying that what needs to focused on with our diesels is torque. You can't have hp or torque without each other anyway. We want to aim for fast torque rise and then a nice flat torque curve.

[brooks]

Conversion was done in 2005 by Brunswick.

[Ben-e-boy]

In saying that what needs to focused on with our diesels is torque. You can't have hp or torque without each other anyway. We want to aim for fast torque rise and then a nice flat torque curve.

Something which is difficult to achieve with an asthmatic engine?

[nissannewby]

Conversion was done in 2005 by Brunswick.

Yes but how many miles on the engine itself? Was it a re manufactured item or a "low mileage" option?

[nissannewby]

Something which is difficult to achieve with an asthmatic engine?

Yes the torque rise is ok but you can certainly notice how short lived it is.

[brooks]

I have no idea mate I will have to get hold of the previous owner.

[nissannewby]

I have no idea mate I will have to get hold of the previous owner.

Does it start easy when hot?

[brooks]

G'day, I don't go on here very often, & even less when I'm at work (FIFO).
no problem starting when hot, I rang Brunswick & the engine was a rebuild, sold to the last owner & converted by himself.
I think she has a done a fair mileage since then towing a van around the north of WA possibly a few other areas as well.
I haven't got hold of the original owner yet, but at a guess I would say 250K plus.

[FNQGU]

Today I ripped the aux battery out from under the truck and fitted it up in the rear, in front of one of the drawers. I was sick of seeing high temps on the battery monitor due to its proximity to the exhaust. 49 degrees C on much of my last trip convinced me it was killing the battery and I wanted to move it. I am posting this here as it really is a specific thing to the Brunswick conversions as there is no room in the engine bay.

Couple of pics.

New battery location. I just used the same battery box as it was easier to mount than a tray.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_130624_374_zps0165cxa6.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_130624_374_zps0165cxa6.jpg.html)

Shortening one of the drawers...

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_135554_467_zps7tropwwi.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_135554_467_zps7tropwwi.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173024_120_zpswbkkrxfb.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173024_120_zpswbkkrxfb.jpg.html)

Just used rivets to refasten the back of the drawer.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_152210_680_zpslagjy4ra.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_152210_680_zpslagjy4ra.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173051_200_zpsmgwa6ki9.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173051_200_zpsmgwa6ki9.jpg.html)

Battery now sits right behind the Redarc BMS.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_154125_005_zpszxccfrnm.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_154125_005_zpszxccfrnm.jpg.html)

Now have some re-wiring to do to complete the job. Some new lighting, compressor power, and a fuse block are being planned.

[the evil twin]

Bit of feedback on how the 4L85E gearbox after doing the Meetup trip.

Around town - 10/10 - awesome mod. Sure beats the pedal work involved with the manual box.
Uses more fuel but thats 'cause you can't keep your foot off the loud pedal or the smile off your face

Cruising - 9/10 - just lopes along with the TC engaged and the 4th ratio locked up is taller again than manual 5th.
This means 1800 RPM is just over 100 KPH with 35's (that will vary with tyre manuf as all manuf are different dias and none are true 35)
Deducted a point because it usually drops straight to 3rd when the TC unlocks which is a slight annoyance.

Towing - 9/10 - same comments as cruising really. 35's are too big for "ideal" towing with the 3.9 diffs but that is tyre selection not the tranny.
Next trip I will throw my 33's back on to see how they go and I reckon they will be heaps better.

4x4 - 7/10 - Off road is a two step process. Point it, plant it. I need to get a manual TC lock up switch sorted and then it will be 9/10.

Fuel consumption - Not quite as good as I hoped. I averaged 20 LPH for the trip towing my van (2 tonnes) for over 1/2 of it but in fairness a few more tweaks of the programming and 33's would def improve that figure. By how much I don't know

I found it relatively easy to program the Tranny Computer (well at least the one that was supplied as apparently there are a few oprtions) but as I still haven't got my head quite around how the tranny works I took baby steps and still don't have it quite how I want it.

[FNQGU]

Good feedback. I plan to install mine when I get back home from work in August. Got a Compu Shift II and the manual TC switch. I ended up opting for the Wholsesale Automatics re-built Nissan tranny with their HD parts in it as I think I have more chance of doing this change out myself. Don't need to shorten the tailshaft or move the transmission support crossmember as you do with the 4L8xE etc.

[Gecko17]

Bit of feedback on how the 4L85E gearbox after doing the Meetup trip.

Around town - 10/10 - awesome mod. Sure beats the pedal work involved with the manual box.
Uses more fuel but thats 'cause you can't keep your foot off the loud pedal or the smile off your face

Cruising - 9/10 - just lopes along with the TC engaged and the 4th ratio locked up is taller again than manual 5th.
This means 1800 RPM is just over 100 KPH with 35's (that will vary with tyre manuf as all manuf are different dias and none are true 35)
Deducted a point because it usually drops straight to 3rd when the TC unlocks which is a slight annoyance.

Towing - 9/10 - same comments as cruising really. 35's are too big for "ideal" towing with the 3.9 diffs but that is tyre selection not the tranny.
Next trip I will throw my 33's back on to see how they go and I reckon they will be heaps better.

4x4 - 7/10 - Off road is a two step process. Point it, plant it. I need to get a manual TC lock up switch sorted and then it will be 9/10.

Fuel consumption - Not quite as good as I hoped. I averaged 20 LPH for the trip towing my van (2 tonnes) for over 1/2 of it but in fairness a few more tweaks of the programming and 33's would def improve that figure. By how much I don't know

I found it relatively easy to program the Tranny Computer (well at least the one that was supplied as apparently there are a few oprtions) but as I still haven't got my head quite around how the tranny works I took baby steps and still don't have it quite how I want it.

Will have to catch up with you at some stage ET... I'm still not sure my Compushift II is working properly or, more to the point, programmed properly.

I notice you said that you still had the 3.9:1 diff ratios? Is that correct? Mine were changed back to 4.11:1... I'm ment to be running 33in tyres but have 35's on at the moment.

[brooks]

Nice job, looks very neat.

[FNQGU]

Gecko / ET - Help! What sort of TPS does this setup need for the CompuShift II and how is it mounted?

BenK

[the evil twin]

Gecko / ET - Help! What sort of TPS does this setup need for the CompuShift II and how is it mounted?

BenK

Dunno, sorry.

1800 brunswick might help or try a wander around the Yank Chevy websites

[FNQGU]

Ok, thanks. Will go and see Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns. Was hoping I could work this out myself, but I am hitting a brick wall and need some guidance for this bit.

Also, have you got the Transmission Fluid temp sender installed? I don't have one yet, but am considering it.

The coolers are huge! 300mm x 300mm and there are two of them. Took a whole lot of mucking around to fit up.

[FNQGU]

Well, I have got to say this - Wholesale Automatics will not get return business from me. Great product, very poor service. Once they had my money they took weeks before bothering to freight the transmission despite numerous promises. Then, when the expected delivery date came around and I rang to confirm the delivery details, I found out again that it hadn't even been put together, followed by another broken promise that the lot would leave in the morning. 3 more days later it was dispatched, just in time for me to have to go back to work for another month. Also despite all my questions, and their assurances this was a once stop shop and everything was included in the kit, they failed to include the gear selector linkage or advise me that the Throttle Position Sensor isn't included in the kit and needs brackets made up for mounting with this engine. Very disappointed Rodney, time you had a bit of a look at your customer service.

[FNQGU]

Just a bit of an update - I've slowly been going through the process of changing my manual over to Automatic and now have it on the road for the first time. The setup I went with was the Re-built Nissan Auto with the whole hog of Wholesale Automatic's upgrades as opposed to a brand new Chev 4L80E or 85E. There wasn't much in it really, but I suppose what swayed me was Rodney's insistence that it would be a much better setup and easily able to handle the HP. The Compushift II was also added. There isn't much point in showing photos of an manual-auto change as it is covered elsewhere, but these are some of the issues I faced that are Chev specific.

a) The crossover exhaust from RHS back to the turbo needed modifying a bit. It was just a cut and re-weld job but it was touching the pan and the sway bar and I couldn't get it bolted up correctly so there was also an air-leak. A simple job for any exhaust mob.
Before...
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_133647_127_zpsvtrdlmmd.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_133647_127_zpsvtrdlmmd.jpg.html)

After:
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_165825_968_zpslx7o5wmh.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_165825_968_zpslx7o5wmh.jpg.html)

The kit from Wholesale Automatics also did not come with a Throttle Position Sensor, which it should have done. I won't whinge here, but my dealings with them were less than satisfactory. Gryphon Engineering who are a Brunswick Diesel authorised installer, came to the rescue and had a TPS for me. They fitted it up while I was at work so I didn't get the chance to get into the how's and why's, but it fits up to the fuel pump here:
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_171157_742_zpsm05l98ws.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_171157_742_zpsm05l98ws.jpg.html)
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_171144_505_zpsv8ewosbl.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_171144_505_zpsv8ewosbl.jpg.html)

I'm now in the testing phase but so far am very impressed with the swift changes of the Nomad valve body and the extra drive-ability of the auto around town. So, so, much better around town. The thing that I suppose I need to work out most is the running temps, and the gear change points. The head unit for the Computshift II is telling me that the box is running at around 85 degrees C, which seems a bit high to my uneducated self. I've only done about 30klms on it so far but haven't mucked with any of the calibrations yet either.

The head unit itself is mounted here on a home-made bracket at the moment. It is nice and clear and provides easy accessibility if I want to switch to manual operation of the transmission or anything else that I haven't yet worked out properly.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_171425_035_zpswuqotbrz.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_171425_035_zpswuqotbrz.jpg.html)

The actual Compushift II computer is mounted up under the dash, behind the glovebox. It is just that bit higher up there, than behind the kick-panel where most TCU's live. If anyone wants a pic of it, sing out and I'll add one.

The manual TCC lockup switch is currently mounted here, although I am still undecided if this is where it will live:
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_185931_902_zpsnlxchpxu.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140820_185931_902_zpsnlxchpxu.jpg.html)
Apologies for the poor quality phone photo...

I didn't bother including any pics of the transmission itself as they are all on the Wholesale auto website, but one issue I did have (albeit minor) was that the reconditioned box has some horrible grind marks on the face that mates to the Transfer Case that needed sealing. Not very professional in my opinion.

Oh, lastly, the RPM sensor apparently causes some 'issues' with the Compushift II, and Wholesale Auto's recommended that it not be connected. Not a big deal as I wouldn't look at it anyway and it doesn't affect programming (apparently).

Next up is to sort out the programming and test it all out some more.

Edit: 85 degrees C seems to be about right for town driving. If anyone has some data on temps for various uses, I'd very much appreciate an idea of what i should be looking at. I'm guessing min temps of 80 degrees, through to max temps of about 110 degrees when labouring?

[FNQGU]

Well, I took the truck for a good run over the weekend. From Cairns out through Herberton to Stanary Hills and then to Chillagoe for the night before a relaxing run back to Cairns this morning. Did a bit of 4wd work in both Low and High range at Stanary Hills and I'm happy with the 43% reduction gears with the auto. I think it is just right in Low Range now and my car was a lot better to drive than the other standard 3ltr Patrol Auto that was with me, so that part has been a success. and I'd highly recommend it for anyone else opting for an Auto conversion.

I got a bit of a fright at one point when the throttle jammed on at full revs when I was overtaking. It seemed to get stuck when I floored it and I had to tap the accelerator pedal several times before it eventually released. I'm still not sure what caused this to happen so if anyone has any suggestions, I'm keen to hear them.

The temps are also a bit of a concern and I might need to make some changes to the setup. Going up the Kuranda Range it got to 101 C then dropped back to 93*C during the run to Mareeba. The run up to Atherton didn't see much temp changes really. It hovered between 93 - 97 Celsius, then up to 101 Celsius on the range up to Herberton.

The dirt road work also saw the transmission working fairly hard at speeds between 50kph - 70kph and temps around that same 101 celsius mark. Bush 4wdriving hovered between 101 celsius up to 103 celsius, with no real opportunity to cool down due to minimal airflow through the coolers.

The nice flat easy run back from Chillagoe to Cairns this morning was much easier and only saw temps in the vicinity of 82-83C.

I'm now keen to re-locate one of the ATF coolers and am thinking of adding a thermo-fan to help with temps in the slow bush driving.

I need to sort the TCU programming at Highway speeds too. The TCC doesn't really want to lock up much at the moment, and also tends to jump out of locked at the least amount of throttle. I used the manual switch quite a lot to overcome that tendency but might re-calibrate the TPS as well.

I am noticing that the turbo seems to be working harder at Highway speeds, and the boost figures seem a bit different now too with boost figures of between 5.5 - 6.6Psi when sitting on 100kph. Several times the alarm went off on the boost gauge as the turbo went over 10 or 12psi. The truck isn't quite as willing to overtake as it was when it still had the manual box either, and the turbo quickly reaches high Psi figures without really much gain in pace. Revs however are nicely lower when cruising and sit just above 1700rpm with the TCC locked. At idle, the boost now seems to sit at 1.1psi for some reason too, whereas before it was zero.

EGT's are also a bit higher and approach 400 celsius if going up the slightest hill. With the manual box they were generally always under 300 unless I was giving it some or it was under load in a high gear. At highway speeds it was generally sitting around the mid-300 mark or would drop to around 300 C if cruising with no load or power on.

So I have a couple of things to fix/adjust or work on, and I still need to get more familiar with driving an Auto 4wd but so far I am really enjoying the improved drive-ability of the 6.5TD engine.

[FNQGU]

Re-calibrated the TPS this morning. Found that it was out. The below photo shows the problem. The middle number should never be lower than the left number or higher than the right number.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140825_075136_997_zpsp6xiwoed.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-08/IMG_20140825_075136_997_zpsp6xiwoed.jpg.html)

I also adjusted the TCC Maximum Throttle disengage setting up from 35% to 40%, allowing a bit more use of the engine's torque when cruising at highway speed before it kicks down to 4th.

I also adjusted the TCC Enable Speed to 80kph, although I might raise it back up if I find that this is too low, which I suspect it might be.

I then adjusted the TCC Disable percentage to 90% (from 5%) which is when the TCC will come off as your speed drops below your set 80kph enable setting.

I also lowered the Downshift Offset to 85% (from 95%), which means I need to give it a bit more throttle before it will kick down in a situation where I want to pass a vehicle etc. etc. Might even need to come down a bit further yet, but I'll see how it goes.

If anyone else is using the Compushift II with this engine, I'd be interested in your general system settings.

[nissannewby]

The boost increase is expected due to the load the auto puts on the motor.

[FNQGU]

Thanks, so that would apply when at idle as well? The engine sounds the same at idle, so I am still suspecting something is out of calibration. At idle this morning the boost gauge read 2.2Psi, which was different from yesterday. Strangely, with the engine off, and the ignition on, I am getting a reading of 0.7 Psi! Earth issue perhaps?

[nissannewby]

Yes at idle as well there will be a difference due to torque converter and you now have to pump oil through the tranny being an auto.

Making boost early isnt bad as it makes for a better torque rise which equates to nicer driveability. With the right mods we can have nearly 1psi on a td42 at idle.

If its reading with nothing on then something is slightly a miss.

[FNQGU]

Ok, good one. Thanks for the info. If only these engines would rev right out to 5000rpm :-)...

The tweaks so far to the TCU settings seem to have improved things a bit. Just need another excuse for a good long run to get a better feel for it, then tweak it again.

Might fit up a thermo fan to the cooler next, before I think about re-positioning it. Should be a whole lot easier and might save some stuffing around too.

[nissannewby]

The auto temps arent to bad, in saying that you dont really want it to be coming over 100. Tc lockup can play a part in this as well so when off road and going down hill you can have it locked and explains your low temps when cruising with the tc locked as well as the extra air flow at cruise speed.

If you fit a fan it will be better to have it draw through not push.

[FNQGU]

That's handy, because drawing through is where I have just enough room I think.

Are some thermo fan's better than others? I'll have a look around tomorrow for something to fit a 28cm square cooler.

[nissannewby]

That's handy, because drawing through is where I have just enough room I think.

Are some thermo fan's better than others? I'll have a look around tomorrow for something to fit a 28cm square cooler.

Yes some thermos are better than others and will be worth spending the extra coin. The fan will only be useful around 40km/h and under as the air moving through from that speed and up is more than any electric fan can push.

[FNQGU]

Ok, I moved one of the two ATF coolers and temps are now much better. Haven't fitted a thermofan as yet. Around town, highway, hills, and some easy 4wdriving hasn't seen temps go over 85*C, so I am fairly pleased with that. This includes the same sort of driving that previously saw temps go to 103 degrees. I am yet to do anything like sand or heavy 4wdriving though, but am confident things are much better than they were.

I've now been fiddling around with my settings on the Compushift for a while and starting to get a feel for it. So far I have only been trying to find a happy compromise for when the TCC locks up at Highway speeds and I think I am just about there.

I still haven't used it in manual mode yet or for any serious off-roading but that is my plan for the coming weekend.

I'm also unsure what my low-range transfer case ratios are, now that I have fitted 43% reduction gears, so I don't know if my entry in the compushift is correct in the low-range settings. If anyone can advise me in this regard I would appreciate it.

[johno1938]

yer my brothers got a new chev pickup v8 diesel now they are made by issuzu there great
had a few prob. with earlier ones

[Gecko17]

Ok, I moved one of the two ATF coolers and temps are now much better. Haven't fitted a thermofan as yet. Around town, highway, hills, and some easy 4wdriving hasn't seen temps go over 85*C, so I am fairly pleased with that. This includes the same sort of driving that previously saw temps go to 103 degrees. I am yet to do anything like sand or heavy 4wdriving though, but am confident things are much better than they were.

I've now been fiddling around with my settings on the Compushift for a while and starting to get a feel for it. So far I have only been trying to find a happy compromise for when the TCC locks up at Highway speeds and I think I am just about there.

I still haven't used it in manual mode yet or for any serious off-roading but that is my plan for the coming weekend.

I'm also unsure what my low-range transfer case ratios are, now that I have fitted 43% reduction gears, so I don't know if my entry in the compushift is correct in the low-range settings. If anyone can advise me in this regard I would appreciate it.

I have been having a few (minor) issues with my Compushift II controller and have been meaning to take it in to a Transmission place here in Perth. Withe the idle, I have been told that one of the issues is that there is only one sensor placed on one bank of pistons, where there should be one sensor on each bank. One I get mine sorted, I will post what was changed.

[FNQGU]

Took the truck for a run up the Creb track on Sunday, just after a spot of rain. The Auto worked a treat and I am really pleased with it, however temps again got a bit hot (96 Celcius) during the slow and long hill climbs where it was working hard. I wasn't super concerned about that sort of temp, but figure that I will fit a thermo fan now and try to get it down a bit lower.

Also planning to install an Engine Saver low coolant alarm plus a Diesel Care pre-filter, so might as well do it all at once.

[AB]

Forgot to mention, on our trip to USA they all supercharge them apparently and rarely turbo.

We ran out of time to find any "experts" on the engine but this was the general norm in asking people we saw had them in their cars.

[Gecko17]

Forgot to mention, on our trip to USA they all supercharge them apparently and rarely turbo.

We ran out of time to find any "experts" on the engine but this was the general norm in asking people we saw had them in their cars.

I wanted to supercharge mine but was told that to suprecharge it, I would not only need a supercharger but new heads as well as the heads couldn't handle the heat/pressure... Simply became too costly to change...besides, for that money, I'd rather get portal axles.

[FNQGU]

ET - can I ask what normal running temp readings are you getting on your Engine Guardian? What sort of ranges are you seeing and what is your alarm set at?

[the evil twin]

ET - can I ask what normal running temp readings are you getting on your Engine Guardian? What sort of ranges are you seeing and what is your alarm set at?

Last Q first;
I have my Engine Coolant thermocouple attached to a bolt on the outlet housing
I have the initial warning set to 85 degrees
The G'box thermocouple is attached to a bolt on the G'box oil pan
The cooling fans on the Tranny Oil Coolers are set to come on at 75 degrees with a manual override if I want them continuous
That alarms are set for an initial warning at 90 degrees

Normal temps and ranges are hard to specify as it varies so much depending on what I am doing, ambient temperature etc

Around town with no load maybe 60 to 70 at the most for both

Towing maybe 70 to 95 G'box and 75 to 100 Engine but they aren't related IE if it is hot, terrain is undulating and the TC is locked then engine will be high in the range and G'box low to mid range.

If it is hilly and TC unlocked then engine temps drop maybe 5 to 10 and G'box rises maybe 15 to 20.

4x4 work they are all over the range.

I have checked the accuracy with a laser temp gun and both agree within a degree or so.

Obviously the thermocouples are not measuring the temps of the Coolant and Tranny Oil.
If there were temp probes in the fluids the figures would be different.
That is OK with me because I am using the watchdog as an operating alarm so to speak.

If one wanted a watchdog to directly monitor fluids then you need different thermocouples and sampling points.

[FNQGU]

So you set the second Engine Guardian sensor to the Tranny and don't utilise the tranny temp reading on the Compushift II? Is there a reason you chose that? I generally keep a close eye on the Compushift readings for temp but to be honest I am not exactly sure where that sender unit is located. I had assumed it was in the pan.

I was half thinking of linking the second sensor to the Oil Pressure, as although I would prefer a separate gauge, I don't have a nice neat place to put one.

Thanks for the info on temps too. Will give me something to compare.

[the evil twin]

I am not running a Compushift but would be keen to know what fluid temps you are seeing.
My TCU is a GM Supermatic

The watchdog I have installed has 3 inputs, 1 and 2 are thermocouple and 3 is switched.
1 and 2 are the Gearbox and Engine temps and 3 is the Engine low oil pressure
All 3 can be used to automatically switch relays/fans/whatever
All 3 can be programmed for audible alarms as well as visual

[FNQGU]

My TF temps will sit around 80-87c once warmed up and just driving around town etc. On a Highway run with TC locked it can sit in the low 70's to low 80's.

On my recent run up the Creb Track in hot weather, and after a lonnnnnggggg steep climb in Low 2nd, it rose to 97c, which to me is getting on the hot side. I have two coolers, but to be honest, one of them is badly positioned and I am going to move it when I get back. I am also going to fit cooling fans on both. Should have done it in the first place but Wholesale Automatics assured me I would not need them....(maybe in Victoria!). I also have the Nissan box, just with the Nomad Valve Body and some upgraded friction plates, and it has less TF volume than the Chev Auto by a couple of litres.

I was looking at that link you posted to your Watchdog/Guardian (whatever they call themselves) and was considering the same unit, only with two sensors instead of three. I was also half thinking about the Engine Saver low-coolant alarm that some others have fitted, but haven't made any final decisions on either or both together.

[the evil twin]

Yeah, those temps kinda gel with mine.
I admit I don't pay all that much attention as I rely on the alarms and if the alarms aren't going I just boogie along doing whatever I'm doing

If you can already monitor your Tranny temp in some way shape or form then I agree and wouldn't bother with a 3 channel watch dog.

I like your idea the two channel unit for monitoring the engine as it will do temp and oil press.
I thought about the low coolant alarm but decided against it because you don't necessarily have low coolant before you begin to cook an engine.

No biggee tho... they all work

[Ricky]

My old man had a recom 6.5ltr put in nad after a year had to have it replaced.

[FNQGU]

Thanks Ricky....

[FNQGU]

No idea what you are referring to.

[FNQGU]

ahhhh... setting new lowest standards for a post to get the manuals.

[FNQGU]

Has anyone had one of these engines on a dyno?

[FNQGU]

Ok, so I have finally gotten around to getting my tranny coolers re-positioned and a big ass thermo fan installed, and yes it seems to make a huge difference. The coolers are the ones supplied by Wholesale Automatics and are made by PWR. Nothing special really, they are thin but fairly large. Due to a lack of space in front of the radiator, I had previously mounted one in front and one slightly lower, more directly behind the winch, and temps were still a bit high.

I now have the two coolers mounted back to back with a fan pushing air through them. Looks like this:

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_0643_zpsjhvxw0a9.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_0643_zpsjhvxw0a9.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_0644_zpsuuo763qb.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_0644_zpsuuo763qb.jpg.html)

First install of the thermo fan was behind the coolers, and pulling air through, however I think because they are mounted together this wasn't working very well. Mounting the fan in front saw an 8 degree drop in temps comparatively.

At the moment, the thermo fan runs constantly from startup and is fitted with a shut off switch on the dash in case of a deep water crossing. The shut off switch has a nice bright blue LED in it which illuminates when off, just in case I forget to turn it back on. I may yet change this around and run the thermo off a temp sensor but this is it for the time being.

I also fitted up one of the Aussie made Engine Watchdog's, the TM4 version with the twin sensors and oil pressure alarm. This little unit is just sitting on the dash at the moment until I decide where I finally want it.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_0641_zpsbdpfegcn.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_0641_zpsbdpfegcn.jpg.html)

The transmission sensor is positioned on the back of the pan.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_0664_zps0rhjwtkz.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_0664_zps0rhjwtkz.jpg.html)

My first test run saw the tranny temps between the Engine Watchdog readings and the Compushift II showing some big differences and I am trying to work out why. The watchdog sensor would have a reading of say 60 degrees, and the Compushift would be reading 76 degrees. A whopping big difference. I can understand that the internals of the box, or the fluid itself would be hotter perhaps than the base of the transmission, but 16 degrees difference seems like a lot to me. If anyone can shed any light on this I would be keen to listen. I am hoping that the sensor location is ok.

Previous runs at this same location used to see transmission temp readings on the Compushift get to around 93 degrees. This time, it got to 80 degrees with the watchdog only reading 63 degrees. A huge drop in temps. Now I am wondering what the optimal temperatures are for the transmission, and whether this is even a fraction too low?

[the evil twin]

80 degrees fluid temp is OK.

The watchdog thermocouple won't read anything like the same as the Compushift temps.
One is fluid temp, the other is whatever heatsoak has gotten to the edge of the pan flange.

[FNQGU]

Thanks. Tranny temps now seem really good.

Engine temps around town are sitting between 91 and 97 degrees, and climbing to 103 degrees when worked a bit going up the range. I wouldn't mind getting these down a bit too. I think that the location of the tranny coolers might be restricting air flow through the radiator a little too much. Another headache...

[Gecko17]

Just seen an F350 with a 6.7l turbo'd engine and running a 4in exhaust. I got told ages ago to fit one and promptly forgot about it. Mine's got a 3in exhaust.... Is there much, if any, benefit in changing up to a 4in exhaust?

[Winnie]

Just seen an F350 with a 6.7l turbo'd engine and running a 4in exhaust. I got told ages ago to fit one and promptly forgot about it. Mine's got a 3in exhaust.... Is there much, if any, benefit in changing up to a 4in exhaust?

Not with our little motors.

[FNQGU]

Just seen an F350 with a 6.7l turbo'd engine and running a 4in exhaust. I got told ages ago to fit one and promptly forgot about it. Mine's got a 3in exhaust.... Is there much, if any, benefit in changing up to a 4in exhaust?

I looked at that, but was told there wasn't the room in the engine bay with the Chev in it.

[threedogs]

I have seen it done with the 6.5s the 6.2s but not on a GU

[nissannewby]

Not with our little motors.

4" is doable and if applicable then do it. The least amount of back pressure after a turbo the better.

[the evil twin]

4" is doable and if applicable then do it. The least amount of back pressure after a turbo the better.

True... esp with the free running turbos

[Gecko17]

There is a bloke, who lives fairly close to me, that has a GQ ute, with a 6.5l Chev, running twin turbos and a 4in exhaust. Sounds absolutely insane! Am I right in thinking that the GQ's had more room under the bonnet? I seem to remember a shite load of room in my old 4.2l GQ, but as FNQGU says, I have bugger all room under the bonnet of my GU, and so don't think a 4in would fit.

[poindexter]

Has anyone put a P400 into a patrol?
Just wondering if the revised oilpan fits.
Also, I have not seen a rear turbo setup as well, is this due to the dashpanel clearance?
If there is anyone in the Melbourne area with a 6.5, I'd like to have a look at the install, I'm in Ferntree Gully

cheers

[FNQGU]

If you speak to Graham at Gryphon Engineering in Cairns he'd know. As a matter of interest, he is putting twin turbo's on his own 6.5 Chev at the moment. He has a beaut 80 Series in black. Twin exhaust and twin stainless snorkels too. Amusingly he has had to rip out the Toyota diffs and put in Nissan diffs and axles. The truck isn't yet on the road as work keeps slowing things up, but it will be interesting to see how it goes when he is done.

[FNQGU]

I am still having overheating issues with my Chev cooling system, and now it is getting frustrating as I just thought that I had it sorted.

At the end of the day, I am starting to think that I have too much shit in front of the aircon condenser and the radiator, and that this particular design of radiator is not able to cope.

For the last few months I have been running a solid spacer from the engine to the radiator fan, and this has worked well, keeping running temps down in the low to mid 80's. Yesterday I finally swapped back to a brand new viscous hub, and straight away the temps soared back to the 100 degree mark, on a reasonably cool day (26 C) in an unloaded vehicle. WTF?

In short, I don't want to run a solid fan spacer-block as the solution. And it makes the obvious conclusion that the viscous hub doesn't draw as much air through the radiator as the solid block. In my mind, this means that the radiator, is not up to the job. I have had it (only done 30k) and the block flushed (with a LOT of shit being removed) and the coolant all replaced and yet it made no difference.

I also removed my Hella spotlights from in front of the grill, and have made sure that all the shrouds are in place. Thermostats are good, and I am not sure what else I can try other than replacing the radiator for something with a core that is better at cooling with a lower air flow?

In front of my radiator I have the standard Nissan aircon condenser, plus a transmission cooler, oil cooler and the power steering cooler. Added up, this takes up a lot of real estate! Previously (before I changed over to an Auto transmission and added the tranny cooler), I had a thermo fan blowing air into the condenser. Everything else was the same, although at the time I still had overheating problems in really hot FNQ weather, which would result in the aircon cutting out. Now that I have the Engine Watchdog on it, I can clearly see the temps and don't let it get this high. I have noted that the aircon will add up between 5 and 7 degrees to the running temp of the engine too.

I have now consulted with an Air conditioning specialist and a radiator specialist and both don't like the restrictions in front of the radiator, but particularly the tranny cooler. The trouble is that both acknowledge that there isn't really a better place to put it.

There have also been comments made that the inlet and outlet to the radiator should preferably be on opposite sides as this enhances cooling efficiency of the radiator. Unfortunately this would mean some hose re-routing and mods to the thermostat housing.

What has now been proposed (if money was not an issue) is to replace the radiator core with a more efficient one, with inlet and outlet on opposite sides, plus include the transmission cooler into the new radiator, plus change the thermostats to a version with a lower opening temp (currently 86*). This isn't a cheap option however, and I am wary of spending this sort of coin.

Locally, Gryphon Engineering here in Cairns have told me that they have five other trucks currently booked in for overheating problem rectifications, and all have the same radiator. Of interest, none of the conversions done here by Gryphon have overheating issues, and he did eighteen of them last year, each with the more efficient radiator setup compared to the one done at Brunnies (where mine was done). At the moment, there is a beaut truck in there where a bloke is driving his handicapped son around Oz, that has only done 4k on the engine and it is has had the radiator pulled twice since being converted! Now, I am not pointing the finger at Brunnies, and their radiator is huge, but WTF! I don't get it.

[nissannewby]

Do you have a pic of the radiator or is there one on here somewhere on here?

[FNQGU]

Sorry, I don't have a pic of it out of the vehicle, but is three core, inlet and outlet on the drivers side with a baffle running horizontal for three quarters of the way across the mid-section (or so I am told). The baffle directs flow across the top half of the radiator and then down, and back to the outlet. I am told it is made at Brunswick Diesels, but not sure who makes the core itself.

I might be pulling it out on Monday at Pacific Radiators to re-examine the whole set up more closely, so will take some pics if we do.

[nissannewby]

Is the baffle like another tube or a smaller tank which then leads to the bottom half of the core?

[FNQGU]

Sorry Matt, I'll have to get an accurate description to answer that with confidence. Unless someone else knows the layout... I just know that the flow is directed across the top half, then drops down and runs back through the lower half to the outlet.

[nissannewby]

Sorry Matt, I'll have to get an accurate description to answer that with confidence. Unless someone else knows the layout... I just know that the flow is directed across the top half, then drops down and runs back through the lower half to the outlet.

If is just a baffle then what the water will actually do is just find the easiest path which will be straight across the top tank down to the lower half and out the outlet so only cooling a fraction of the water.

When the inlet and outlet are diagonally opposed then the cooling can be far more efficient due to pressure/temp differentials.

[Nightjar]

Do you have bash plates installed below engine, if so are they perforated?

[FNQGU]

Thanks Matt, this is the same advice I am getting up here.

Nightjar - I have a Bushskins steering guard and the standard Nissan front radiator guard thing, that yes has big holes in it.

[FNQGU]

Ok, it's been a while and I've made some changes and am still experiencing engine temperatures that are high. Frustratingly high.

In summary - I have the Chev 6.5TD with a modified Nissan Auto (fully rebuilt with HD friction plates and Nomad valve body by Wholesale Automatics), twin transmission coolers with electric fan on them, and an oil cooler also (recently) with an added electric fan on it. I spent a lot of time talking with Richard at ARE out of Brisbane and with a Cairns radiator specialist (who knows 4wdrives on the Cape) and eventually i forked out $1300 to change to a 3-core Copper/Brass dimpled tube radiator, and....it made no difference at all.

This setup will overheat on the first big hill IF it is run with the normal viscous coupling on the radiator fan. If I put a solid block spacer in place instead of the viscous coupling (an expensive Brunswick bandaid), then it will usually run at quite good temperatures (78' - 85'C), UNTIL the ambient air temp rises to about 34'C - 35'C, which it does right through summer up here. At this point it will get hot if working the engine hard, or towing a load up a reasonable hill with the airconditioning on. If I switch the aircon off, it will drop 7 to 8 degrees C on average and working it hard up that same hill won't be an issue. Try that with the viscous coupling back in place and I'd get a quarter of the way up the hill before the temp needle starts climbing dangerously towards the red.

I've also pulled the radiator twice and backflushed the engine block each time with no real improvement. Coolant mix ratio's are correct and coolants haven't been mixed.

I recently moved the oil cooler (ADRAD plate and bar type) out from in front of the condenser and put it lower down behind the bull-bar with an electric fan on it. I did this because temps on the oil cooler were in the mid-90's (temp gun reading) and it had to be sending hot air straight back into the radiator. Basically, just trying to eliminate another factor i suppose. I then stuck a 12" electric fan in front of the condenser (where the oil cooler had been) and it made no difference, although I didn't expect it to.

I then removed the bullbar and winch and front grille completely and ran it up the same hill, and BINGO - no overheating! This was with the viscous coupling on of course. Stick the bullbar and winch back on, and straight back to the redline! It appears that airflow through the radiator is the overall issue right? I don't have a big-arse set of spot lights in the way either. Besides the winch control box, it is as open as it can be, with only a lightbar level with the top of the bullbar.

So, I have had numerous calls with Brunswick Diesel over the last xx months/years and they advise that they fit this solid spacer to ALL the automatic versions of this conversion that they do to Nissan Patrols. Mine is nothing special. Really??!! I am struggling with that concept. My small brain does not comprehend why such a band-aid fix is the recommended answer to this problem. I was told that I'd just have to live with it, as the cost to try and rectify it is simply going to grow and might not make any difference anyway. Gryphon engineering here in Cairns who also do these conversions, have also run out of ideas and are basically going along with it, although they were one of several who recommended the radiator change...

The downside of this solid spacer is that my fuel economy since fitting it has risen from 14.5/100 to 19.3/100 or worse. I'm also nervous about every puddle I drive through on the Cape as I don't want the fan to drive itself into the back of the radiator, and, it just seems ridiculous that this is the answer.

My transmission temps are great by the way, usually in the high 70's, but will climb into the late 80's if the engine is running hot. i had considered that the coolers in front of the condenser were my main problem, but compared to the oil cooler temps, they run cold. Besides that, I am out of ideas as to where else I could put them anyway.

I also have considered the option of spending another grand or more and going to twin thermo fans and a custom shroud. Funny this, but some recommend it and others are dead against it. Brunswick said it wouldn't help and so did Gryphon Engineering, basically saying that the fan already in place pulls more air than the electric system would. I would however 'like' to be able to turn them off for water crossings, but that is just a 'nice to have' I suppose.

Should I be looking at the Water Pump? I'm told it is the High Flow version that was the 'fix' to this original overheating issue but haven't yet pulled it off.

Both Thermostat's are brand new also, and are rated to 71'C.

So, before i start cutting holes in the bonnet and fitting the vents I had been previously investigating, can anyone else point me at a solution?

[nissannewby]

I think you have sussed it ben when you said removing everything from the front equalled no cooling problems. So you need to increase surface area that sees airflow.

Is the radiator your using just a wide style patrol item?

The earlier style systems seem to be prone to heating problems in the patrol. The chevs are a hotter engine as such.

Im surprised the thermostats are the same temp setting. I would have thought a staggered setup would be much more stable.

Do no cut holes in the bonnet. I dont believe it will solve your problem. As in the first paragraph mate you need more surface area for the air flow to act on.

Can you post a few detailed pics of your setup please?

[FNQGU]

The radiator WAS the standard Brunswick custom install, which is pretty bloody huge. I replaced the core in it with the above mentioned version for no real improvement.

Previous thermostats were rated higher. Low 80's C from memory. I replaced both when I found one was not opening properly. Pics to come... thanks Matt.

[FNQGU]

Ok, a couple of the front BEFORE I moved the Oil Cooler.

Drivers side
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1190_zpswpa9epez.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1190_zpswpa9epez.jpg.html)
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1193_zpsacx1yn2i.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1193_zpsacx1yn2i.jpg.html)
The oil cooler has been removed and relocated. The P/S cooler is still in the same place now.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1191_zpsbs3kr7pb.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1191_zpsbs3kr7pb.jpg.html)
Passengers side.

Below is Drivers side NOW. I even temporarily hooked up a 12" electric fan here to blow onto the condenser, but it really made no difference whether it was there or not. Wiring hasn't yet been tidied up...
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1241_zpsdj1wkckt.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1241_zpsdj1wkckt.jpg.html)

This is where I dropped the oil cooler down to. Passengers side, behind the bullbar. More just an experiment really and probably not where I would like to leave it as it is still likely susceptible to damage if I hit a roo or something.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1250_zps8lnwcfrd.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1250_zps8lnwcfrd.jpg.html)
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1252_zpsq6vobecf.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1252_zpsq6vobecf.jpg.html)

Beneath...
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1253_zps3igajofu.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1253_zps3igajofu.jpg.html)

[nissannewby]

You certianly dont have a lot of room for free air to the radiator.

[the evil twin]

I have a '99 Ute and it seems to run with no overheating issues at all.
Brunnies did the 6.5TD in Dec 2012 for prev owner
I got them to convert the 5 speed to a crate 4L85 auto (Chevy Suburban et al) in early 2014.
It still has the viscous fan and the 'original' Brunnies Rad (huge Mofo) and thermostats (temp unknown)
The twin tranny coolers are under the tray
Twin IPF spotties on a custom bar in front of the standard series 1 grille

[nissannewby]

Is the front bar a little more forgiving in the flow department than what ben has pictured.

[the evil twin]

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/theeviltwin06/RedTruck_zpsa3b52cb7.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/theeviltwin06/media/RedTruck_zpsa3b52cb7.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/theeviltwin06/P6271602_zps319ffc8a.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/theeviltwin06/media/P6271602_zps319ffc8a.jpg.html)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/theeviltwin06/P6301649crop_zps665c92e6.jpg (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/theeviltwin06/media/P6301649crop_zps665c92e6.jpg.html)

I reckon Cooling Systems are fickle pricks of things at the best of times.
They only need to get that one issue occur then the temps all but run away and no matter what you do the buggers will overheat till you sort out the specific cause.

[the evil twin]

Uuuummmmm... just a quick one out of left field here... but...

Seeing as the Water Pump has been changed out have you confirmed the correct direction of rotation?

There are versions of 6.5's that have different DOR of the pump, Serpy belts go one way and V belts the other and they can't be swapped.
Just thinking there is a very, very small chance to pump may be the wrong one?

[FNQGU]

Sorry ET, I wrote that down poorly. It is the original water pump that came on the engine when it was done in Jan 2013. When I asked Brunswick about it, they said it was a 'High Flow' pump that had been introduced by Chev to combat previous overheating in the 6.5 series of engines.

Still, as it is one of the things I haven't yet pulled off and checked, I probably should.

This is the front of my truck. Bugger all there. I could move the number plate down and put it on one of those swing away thingies in front of the winch I suppose, but there isn't much else I can do about the bar.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1238_zpshftr5pa0.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1238_zpshftr5pa0.jpg.html)

[the evil twin]

Hmmm, mine would have more obstructions in the airflow than that I reckon.
I spose it would be a good idea to pull the pump and have a look see.
Not saying it is wrong DOR (that is a real longshot) but will give you the chance to have a look at the condition and check out the amount of scale etc in the galleries

[FNQGU]

Yep, might as well. Bugger all else I can think of at the moment.

[nissannewby]

Do you have a infrared thermometer handy ben?

[FNQGU]

Not at the moment, but can access one tomorrow.

What are you thinking? I've put a temp gun all over the place during the last six months, hence why I moved the oil cooler.

[nissannewby]

Can you check temp differential between top and bottom of rad please. This may help point us in the right direction a little more. Do this both when its at normal temp and when its getting hot.

[FNQGU]

Will do. Probably later tomorrow arvo before I can get the time.

Got a Rugby BBQ night on this evening to see the Wallabies through...

[FNQGU]

89'C at the top radiator inlet and 82'C at the bottom today. That was general driving around town with a bit of a heavy right foot. I'll be heading up the range shortly and will take a reading at the top after giving it some stick all the way.

[nissannewby]

How did you go after a hard run mate?

[FNQGU]

Not much difference actually. 90'C to 80'C for the inlet and outlet. The fins were at 76'C at the top just in from the inlet, and the tank was hotter at about 104'C also at the top.

[Kimbo63]

Hey there mate are you still having problems with overheating? Or is it all sorted?

[FNQGU]

I 'think' its come good. Brunswick sent me a truck oil cooler in November - two long tubes in parallel with cooling fins, and it mounted up along the chassis up nice and high.

I then totally removed the original oil cooler from the front of the truck and drove it up the Cape in high temps with high humidity. Engine Temp's got into the mid 90's at its worst, which was driving up the Byrestown Range and through all the hills around the Palmer River. This seemed pretty normal for those conditions, so I think the bigger cooler and better airflow, without the heat in front of the radiator, has done the trick.

I hadn't updated as I wanted to do another run when I get back from work, but I am pretty happy with it at present.

Are you having issues?

[Kimbo63]

Good to hear mate was going to suggest this http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bmm-70355/overview/?ibanner=MobileSwitchNo and move your coolers away from the radiator this might still also aid your tranny temp as it adds nearly 4 litres of fluid
Cheers Kimbo

[Kimbo63]

Nice to see some revs on a 6.5
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GKd6UfbHcOI

[MB]

G'day 6.5er's, I took delivery of some TS's from 'Autobarn-USA-Online' some months ago now to try and stabilise temps up/down our local severe hilly highways. Finally found the time today to install and was quite shocked at what the 'ACDelco's' actually seemed to do! My intial Googleing found most Yank's swore by them being that they are GMC owned also I guess but temp/model op's varied greatly! Today's install were:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Coolant-Thermostat-Kit-ACDelco-GM-Original-Equipment-131-103-/151581249066
By far, the most stable I've seen the beast run for years, just a shame now that Vic is another 6 months away from 35+ ambient temp tests here :-( !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Haynzy]

Hi guys,

I'm looking at getting a 2002 GU III with a 6.5 Chevy in it. It's a naturally aspirated diesel with a manual gearbox and seemed nice to drive around the 'burbs near the dealer. I'm going to take it for a spin early next week and run it up a big hill on the Adelaide freeway.

The conversion was done in '09 and it's done 106,000 clicks.

The asking price was $34,000 but he's said he'll give to me for 30,000 with my '93 unmodified Maverick.


I'm just wondering if that sounds about right and if there is anything I should be looking out for?

Cheers

[nissannewby]

Dont buy it....

They arent great with the turbo and auto. A manual na will get boring quick

[the evil twin]

I paid 25K cash for mine and it is Turbo, conversion done in 2012 with less than 50 thou.
It is an extended cab Ute tho

IMHO 34,000 is waay too much

[MB]

G'day Hanyzy, I'm running a 1999 extra cab rear bag ute with same donk setup as you're looking at mate. It is great fun, sounds beautiful, puts a smile on my dial every day it fires up, But :-)!
Very serious coin has been injected into cooling overhauls for my beast, $3.5k to be precise and have just now I believe finally sorted it out, almost :-) Not trying to put you off it either but NA's need a bit more boot/fuel in headwinds and hills to hold 110-115kmph which you'll find raises temps significantly/scary:-(
I believe will all will be sorted via turbo or super so that the boot/fuel is backed off a bit!
Please do test it @ 2200rpm highway for 15 mins and then 2500rpm for another stint and see if she runs away before buying :-)!

[MB]

I paid 25K cash for mine and it is Turbo, conversion done in 2012 with less than 50 thou. It is an extended cab Ute tho IMHO 34,000 is waay too much

Agree :-) !!!!

[Haynzy]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm taking it for an extended spin next week so will test it out.

If I get it I'll be towing a 22ft caravan at times as well as a bit of off road. I imagine it wouldn't have too much trouble with it but I'll be interested to see how it handles the hills.

I don't know what other mods have been done to it as far as cooling etc.

Am I allowed to post links to carsales.com listings here?

[the evil twin]

Am I allowed to post links to carsales.com listings here?

Yeah, should be fine... it may go to moderation as you only have 4 posts but give it a go

[Haynzy]

Cheers, it's a bit of a weird listing as I know some of what they put in the specs section is just standard obviously relates to the 4.2 original motor rather than the 6.5 Chevy.

http://carsales.mobi/cars/details/2002-Nissan-Patrol-ST-GU-III/OAG-AD-12689395?DistanceFromMePostcode=5050

[MB]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm taking it for an extended spin next week so will test it out. If I get it I'll be towing a 22ft caravan at times as well as a bit of off road. I imagine it wouldn't have too much trouble with it but I'll be interested to see how it handles the hills. I don't know what other mods have been done to it as far as cooling etc. Am I allowed to post links to carsales.com listings here?

Forgot to add; hopefully it has an aftermarket temp gauge for your tests Haynzy. IMO the standard GU gauge is useless for understanding what the cars actually doing. I've been aiming for max 210F/99C whilst heavy hauling all conditions and found that in my earlier system tests the GU gauge in mine wouldn't budge until 115C.

[Haynzy]

Thanks MB,
I didn't notice one. The digital display on the right ( not sure what it displays, possibly outside temperature and cruise control) isn't connected and the cruise control isn't there either. The dealer thought that had something to do with the conversion.

[FNQGU]

Mine would get hot until I changed out the Oil Cooler for a big ass tubular one that mounted up under the chassis. Brunswick supplied it.

For what it's worth, I'm not sure I'd buy one without a turbo on it either.

[Haynzy]

Why's that FNQGU?

A couple of people have said that with the amount of grunt it provides it doesn't really need it.

Cheers

[Haynzy]

Hi guys, just wondering why you would or wouldn't get the above vehicle without turbo?

Cheers

[MB]

Hi guys, just wondering why you would or wouldn't get the above vehicle without turbo? Cheers
G'day Haynzy, my personal experience only, I'm now taking next steps with my NA and saving up for forced induction. I'm not saying mines a slug or anything and in fact most of its use is for very slow low down grunt which it has plenty of as is. It is my belief that forced induction is going to save me fuel and reduce heat when it is used on the highway at 2000+ RPM. I'm currently looking at this option below:
http://www.bulletcars.com/superchargers/chevrolet/chev-6.5-litre-diesel-supercharger-system.html
They are Aussie based in QLD and were recommended to me from a bloke whilst in the USA last year and should suit my low&high RPM needs.
In summary; mine (custom extra cab like ET's) was $30k + $3.5k cooling mods + upcoming charger at $6k + turbo spec injectors. So I'm staring down the barrel of $40k+ when ET got his with turbo and all setup for only $25k drive away :-)!

[Haynzy]

G'day Haynzy, my personal experience only, I'm now taking next steps with my NA and saving up for forced induction. I'm not saying mines a slug or anything and in fact most of its use is for very slow low down grunt which it has plenty of as is. It is my belief that forced induction is going to save me fuel and reduce heat when it is used on the highway at 2000+ RPM. I'm currently looking at this option below:
http://www.bulletcars.com/superchargers/chevrolet/chev-6.5-litre-diesel-supercharger-system.html
They are Aussie based in QLD and were recommended to me from a bloke whilst in the USA last year and should suit my low&high RPM needs.
In summary; mine (custom extra cab like ET's) was $30k + $3.5k cooling mods + upcoming charger at $6k + turbo spec injectors. So I'm staring down the barrel of $40k+ when ET got his with turbo and all setup for only $25k drive away :-)!

Cheers MB, sounds great.

I just took it for a drive for about 40mins. Went up the Sth Eastern Freeway out of Adelaide which is notorious for slowing you down. It went like a dream. The temp never went over halfway for the entire drive and was still cool enough to touch when we got back to the yard.
I felt like I had as much zip as I need and was able to boot past slower cars heading up the hill.

I've bitten the bullet and will taking ownership tomorrow. Thanks for the help, I guess we'll see if I've made the wrong call in the few months :-)

[MB]

Hey again Haynzy, bit more light reading below to hopefully assist a decision either way mate:-) !

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel_V8_engine

As an overview from the link there was a few issues stated with the earlier 6.5s from GM. Once their military division took over the engines in 2000 then AM General started fixing issues until the P400 beast.
You can quite easily determine the manufacture date of your potential purchase by searching for the stamp. It is located on the block (topside) near bell housing connection.
As an example; mine says G200.
G = seventh month 'July'
20 = 20th
0 = 2000
(First of the military Optimizers I believe/hope)

You never know, your potential beast could be well worth it if it had a P400 under that hood!

[MB]

Sorry Haynzy, was typing same time I guess.
Congratulations mate, welcome aboard :-)

[Haynzy]

Thanks MB, I'll read the article and look for the stamp tomorrow.

I'm pretty stoked and can't wait to give it an off-road workout.

[MB]

Thanks MB, I'll read the article and look for the stamp tomorrow. I'm pretty stoked and can't wait to give it an off-road workout.
There's an annual Forum meetup/drinkup/pizzaup (no driving) here at the NP.com.au bosses headquarters property in Vic this weekend. Would be great to meet and checkout your new toy if you're keen to take it for a highway blast over mate. Plenty of interstaters making the Pilgrimage, should be a great few days!

[Haynzy]

Thanks mate, where is the catch up?

I'm heading over to Melbourne for some stuff, I'll be tied up Saturday and part of Sunday and then heading home to Adelaide.

[MB]

Thanks mate, where is the catch up? I'm heading over to Melbourne for some stuff, I'll be tied up Saturday and part of Sunday and then heading home to Adelaide.
Edge of the Yarra Valley mate, shoot the boss 'AB' off a PM if you're keen he'll send you exact address. Most are turning up around lunchtime Saturday and a few on Friday night to help with setup. Great times, great people, hopefully see you there Haynzy, safe travels mate !

[Winnie]

Hurry up and get that charger on MB, it's a safety requirement!

[nissannewby]

Hurry up and get that charger on MB, it's a safety requirement!

While your throwing money around throw some water/methanol injection on it too.

[MB]

While your throwing money around throw some water/methanol injection on it too.
Holy crap, I thought you were joking Matty, diesel&water:-) Had to look it up, Sir Harry Ricardo invented it for WWII dogfights and now safe in diesels!
http://www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/how-it-works/how-it-works-water-methanol-injection/
Cheers Matty :-)

[nissannewby]

Dollar for dollar will have better results than any intercooler.

[MB]

Dollar for dollar will have better results than any intercooler. Cheers Matty, looking forward to an attempt at trying to absorb your hard earned honest knowledge! Must say here, your 4.2TD work together with AB has truly blown me away mate!!! The Batty boys might be in the midst of who can oneday pop a donk first :-)

[BigRAWesty]

Cheers Matty, looking forward to an attempt at trying to absorb your hard earned honest knowledge! Must say here, your 4.2TD work together with AB has truly blown me away mate!!! The Batty boys might be in the midst of who can oneday pop a donk first :-)
That's the spirit lol..

The only down fall of water meth injection is its capacity..
A good intercooler ain't going anywhere..
But once the tank runs dry of water meth that's it..
So if your looking at remote trips etc it's probably not the best option.
Unless your willing to carry 100L of mix lol..

[nissannewby]

That's the spirit lol..

The only down fall of water meth injection is its capacity..
A good intercooler ain't going anywhere..
But once the tank runs dry of water meth that's it..
So if your looking at remote trips etc it's probably not the best option.
Unless your willing to carry 100L of mix lol..

You can use water if you dont want to carry methanol. The water is what does most of the cooling. The methanol helps a bit but is a oxygenated fuel so just helps to add power and torque

[BigRAWesty]

You can use water if you dont want to carry methanol. The water is what does most of the cooling. The methanol helps a bit but is a oxygenated fuel so just helps to add power and torque
Yea you can. But still need a good quality if your doing remote trips..

So imo, although it's an awesome setup I wouldn't rely on it for majority cooling..
For extra power thou for sure..

[Haynzy]

Hey again Haynzy, bit more light reading below to hopefully assist a decision either way mate:-) !

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel_V8_engine

As an overview from the link there was a few issues stated with the earlier 6.5s from GM. Once their military division took over the engines in 2000 then AM General started fixing issues until the P400 beast.
You can quite easily determine the manufacture date of your potential purchase by searching for the stamp. It is located on the block (topside) near bell housing connection.
As an example; mine says G200.
G = seventh month 'July'
20 = 20th
0 = 2000
(First of the military Optimizers I believe/hope)

You never know, your potential beast could be well worth it if it had a P400 under that hood!


It looks like mine may be one of the older ones.
The engine number ends in A0196 which I assume means Jan 1st 1996.

I've had it for a couple of weeks now and took it over Melbourne last weekend to pick up a 22ft caravan and bring it back to Adelaide.
It went like a dream, no hint of overheating, needle stayed below halfway the entire trip, and had no dramas towing.
It looks like the cooling system has been beefed up with a bigger radiator with dual fans on the front and a big single fan on the back and a 3 and a half inch exhaust all the way through.

It's a very comfortable ride and so far I am extremely happy with the purchase. Time may tell but thanks all for your advice.

[Haynzy]

The engine conversion was done in '09 and it's done 106 000 clicks since then.

[rainsey]

Well,

My patrol is enroute to WA as we speak.

6.5 turbo within a week or two.

Stay tuned.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[MB]

Well, My patrol is enroute to WA as we speak. 6.5 turbo within a week or two. Stay tuned. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
G'day Rainsey, exciting times mate ! If it's not too rude to ask, how much are they asking for a 6.5+turbo these days? PM maybe if uncomfortable with a quote divulge I understand ! Was Auto options quoted too? Cheers mate !