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View Full Version : Aluminium rear drawers - no welding!



rkinsey
16th December 2013, 02:30 PM
Hi Guys,

Found this on Youtube (while I was looking for fridges believe it or not)

Looks very easy for us novice DIYers...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaYrMPE9Td0

Cheers,

Rob

MudRunnerTD
16th December 2013, 02:31 PM
I have a mate that has built 2 slip-on type campers for his Hilux using that system. Very strong, light and effective.

threedogs
16th December 2013, 02:39 PM
Yeah very handy items cant remember the alloy suppliers that sell it down here .
I use some of the tubing when I made sand flags,

Edit::: Smart Aluminium is the mob for all things aluminium or alloy stock

@MR would think way much better than using pop rivets which would
rattle themselves to bits in no time flat

lhurley
16th December 2013, 03:43 PM
Yeah very handy items cant remember the alloy suppliers that sell it down here .
I use some of the tubing when I made sand flags,

Edit::: Smart Aluminium is the mob for all things aluminium or alloy stock

@MR would think way much better than using pop rivets which would
rattle themselves to bits in no time flat

I was thinking about that too, i was thinking maybe use a rivnut to hold the tops and sides on, and then some big arse pop rivets to hold the joins together. Maybe some stainless bolts to hold the draw runners on.

BigRAWesty
16th December 2013, 03:54 PM
So how did it cost him??

It was not a bad idea but I honestly do think it'll handle well once loaded?? I'll take a stab and say the bottom of the draws will fall away once loaded and will need pinning, then you plastic wears..

And 18mm ply??? 12 is way more than enough to cover 600 gap spans..

Good concept I give him that, but I still think a 12mm ply system is a better option, and is now weld..

threedogs
16th December 2013, 03:58 PM
All my mates are in the aviation industry and know all about pop rivets,
they rattle loose too quick, they don't like movement let alone
corrigations

BigRAWesty
16th December 2013, 04:10 PM
All my mates are in the aviation industry and know all about pop rivets,
they rattle loose too quick, they don't like movement let alone
corrigations

Yea I dont like rivets on steel On steel where flex and vibrations are a given all the time..

threedogs
16th December 2013, 04:59 PM
From memory those connectors aren't cheap, but they make up with that with versatility.
Would be ok for verticle divider and top shelf as well. I like em.

megatexture
16th December 2013, 06:57 PM
He said the connectors are a dollar or two each in the video and i count around 70 of them and he used 6x6m of the alloy at 19$ a length and 60$ for ply no mention of price he got the runners for he only mentions the cost of the bearings he didnt use, so not including runners it would be around $314.

What he didn't mention is the 90 deg angle used to reinforce the alloy on the sides and base of the draws and no mention of carpet price.
And personally I would have put the base of the draws on top the frame to take the full load not under.
i do like the idea of this system over using ply.

Cuppa
16th December 2013, 07:02 PM
Agree that 12mm ply would be plenty for the top. To hold the sheet metal on I reckon that sikaflex would do a great job, & use just a few rivets to hold the sheets in place whilst the sikaflex goes off. 3mm ply would probably be as good as the sheet aluminium as all it is doing is giving a bit of 'bracing' to the aluminium tube to help keep things square, & I'd reckon it might be a bit quieter too.

BigRAWesty
16th December 2013, 09:28 PM
Well mine cost $350 ish..
So yea, full ply for me.. :D

megatexture
16th December 2013, 09:32 PM
I think the alloy would be lighter wouldn't it?. weight is now my concern with my gu weighing 2.8 ton

BigRAWesty
16th December 2013, 10:00 PM
40 ish KG complete..

megatexture
16th December 2013, 10:03 PM
Yours was?

BigRAWesty
16th December 2013, 11:14 PM
Yep.. I've read a lot of the Brand name ones reaching 80kg, but a lot of that is in the runners, excessive ply size, etc etc.

The nylon I use is a couple of grams a strip.. Then 3 sheets of ply, a couple boxes of screws and glue..

Can't get much simpler. And the in-laws has been in the 80 For 15+ years now and still like New..

The only down fall a diy has over a brand name is the anchor points for child restraints.. Most the big guns build them I'm so you get Max usage..
Diy you have to leave exposed or have them re engineered..

liftlid
17th December 2013, 08:25 AM
I reckon there is too much lost space with that system around the runners and tube.

MudRunnerTD
17th December 2013, 09:56 AM
I reckon there is too much lost space with that system around the runners and tube.

yeah i agree 100% has alway been my concern with the system. the lost space.

threedogs
17th December 2013, 10:11 AM
Could see that used for a purpose built box to fit a certain area,
Just not rigid enough for 4x4 touring IMO. I'd want something that doesn't move and a lot less working parts.
But I don't like drawers I prefer boxes that stack easily, soon I'll be going down the "Space case road" to try and eliminate the amount of boxes required.
I pack for 4 but in future I'll only be packing for one which will leave me heaps of options

liftlid
17th December 2013, 10:19 AM
The good thing about draws over boxes is you can easily get to what's on the bottom of your load without unpacking the boxes on top.

threedogs
17th December 2013, 10:26 AM
I don't use many but see your point, but with drawers you may have up to 150 of gear plus your drawers and
no idea what is down the back. They place your fridge way too high even at 6ft they are trouble. plus no way am I buying a $800
plus drop down fridge slide thingy. I can pack most gear in my camper basically leaving the cargo area free

Cuppa
17th December 2013, 10:52 AM
no way am I buying a $800
plus drop down fridge slide thingy.

You could build'em & sell'em for half that TD, I sure you'd have plenty of sales. ;)

threedogs
17th December 2013, 11:11 AM
@ Cuppa $800 is the cheap one BW want just under $1000, WTF
I'm sure you could make and sell for $400-$500 and still make profit IMO

BigRAWesty
17th December 2013, 02:08 PM
@ Cuppa $800 is the cheap one BW want just under $1000, WTF
I'm sure you could make and sell for $400-$500 and still make profit IMO

Especially since they use a standard box and just change the wings and drill pattern to suit.. Lol