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Winnie
20th November 2013, 09:04 PM
Hey guys, I'm about to start building some storage drawers for my GQ and just need a quick question answered. I have not done any cabinetry before so this will all be new for me....
This is the plan I've got.
http://nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/pb2017/Winnie/drawerssss_zpsccd7d010.png

One drawer is a little shorter than the other because a small sub is going behind it. That measurement is from the cargo barrier right up to the back doors so is the biggest I can go, so the drawer fronts have to sit flush with it. All using 12mm ply.
I am trying to work out what length drawer runners to use, I'm having trouble visualising it all. Thinking 900mm and 750mm but might be a bit too long? 800 and 700?

Punderhead
20th November 2013, 09:19 PM
I didn't use drawer runners wth mine. I just had it sliding ply on ply. I was planning to put a couple of strips of hard plastic underneath, as that stuff slides really well.

As for the length of the slides I would go the longer ones, and figure out a way to stop the drawer before it is quite fully extended, to have more of the the slide remaining inside the outer slide, to reduce chance of pulling out, and to hold more weight.

Sorry if that doesn't make sense


Cheers

AB
20th November 2013, 09:22 PM
I would prob go 800 and 700 mate.

I did the cheapie way as above but stuck down some thin plastic vinyl and it works a treat for sliding. It's not like a kitchen draw that you open up 45 times a day.

But yeah go the runners for sure..lol

BigRAWesty
20th November 2013, 09:45 PM
As above, nylon works fine, and takes up less room unlike ball bearing runners. Also a lot cheaper..
Don't forget your middle and top cross member need to be 12mm shorter than bottom and sides so your doors end up flush with the face.
The top sheets are the same length as the sides and base.

Winnie
20th November 2013, 09:50 PM
Which part do you mean by top crossmember?

BigRAWesty
20th November 2013, 10:03 PM
Which part do you mean by top crossmember?

The bit of 40x16 which supports the tops across the front.
37171
Bit hard to tell due to paint but the whole middle section is 12 mm behind the floor and sides..
So when the draws are in its all flush.

BigRAWesty
20th November 2013, 10:05 PM
If you wish to use runners make everything 15mm longer than the 100. So make it 1015 to fit 1m runners nicely, and 815 to fit 800 runners nicely..

Winnie
20th November 2013, 10:07 PM
The bit of 40x16 which supports the tops across the front.
37171
Bit hard to tell due to paint but the whole middle section is 12 mm behind the floor and sides..
So when the draws are in its all flush.

Okay to add actually not planned for supports like you've done. Looking through those pics you've sent me you did a fair bit, is it needed for strength?

Winnie
20th November 2013, 10:10 PM
If you wish to use runners make everything 15mm longer than the 100. So make it 1015 to fit 1m runners nicely, and 815 to fit 800 runners nicely..

That space that is 1m might end up being a bit shorter, not much like 950 or something. Should be right with 800mm slides

MudRunnerTD
21st November 2013, 12:27 AM
800 slides will be fine winnie.

the length of the slide determines how far you can pull the drawer out mate. no big deal really if the last 200 or 300 is the back of the drawer and doesnt fully clear.

I would not be too concerned with the extra bracing that Kallen has done mate. I would highly recommend that the top be made out of 15mm ply being 25% stronger than 12mm ply ;)

BigRAWesty
21st November 2013, 04:50 AM
If you go ball bearing runners, yea not so much needed.
If you go nylon you need to For the draws to counter lever Off of.
I'd still add the one down the guts as it makes it easier to screw your sheets down. It's much easier to work in halves than to try get the top in 1.

But 12 mm is odles. 12mm ply has a braking strain of some 250kg over the 2.4 length, so spanning 600mm, it'll never brake, it just added weight..

Bloodyaussie
21st November 2013, 07:26 AM
My larger runners cost me $88 wholesale... the retail was a killer but they can handle nearly 2 of me sitting in them if the bottoms of the draws were strong enough.

Winnie
21st November 2013, 08:23 AM
I ordered some 100kg rated 800mm and 700mm off eBay

Punderhead
21st November 2013, 05:11 PM
Also, when you build the drawers, have the ends sit inside the sides, as this will mean you are less likely to rip the front off

Cheers

Burto
21st November 2013, 05:12 PM
Hi, with my fridge slide and drawers, I used slides from Ovesco.com.au, they have an online catalogue which is very helpful, I used 45kg slides on the draws and 125kg slide on the fridge slide. As to length 800and 700mm will do fine. They are a great company to deal with, I have no connection with them other than a satisfied customer
Regards Burto

Winnie
21st November 2013, 05:42 PM
Hi, with my fridge slide and drawers, I used slides from Ovesco.com.au, they have an online catalogue which is very helpful, I used 45kg slides on the draws and 125kg slide on the fridge slide. As to length 800and 700mm will do fine. They are a great company to deal with, I have no connection with them other than a satisfied customer
Regards Burto

I have read lots of good things about them. I ordered some stainless T handles from them.

Winnie
21st November 2013, 05:43 PM
Also, when you build the drawers, have the ends sit inside the sides, as this will mean you are less likely to rip the front off

Cheers

Sorry you have lost me?

BigRAWesty
21st November 2013, 06:02 PM
Sorry you have lost me?

He means have the ends sit inside the box. But by doing this you will have the draw runner gaps.. I've had no issues with them in the end and you can flush it all in and look professionally done..

Also as you have used runners you might want to incorporat locks to hold the draws in place.
Father in-law used a simple cam lock and cut a slot into the front top support.
I'll try get some pics of it for you..

Winnie
21st November 2013, 06:08 PM
I think I get ya now... how would that make it more likely to rip the fronts off?

I'm using locks like this.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/11/84.jpg

Ben-e-boy
21st November 2013, 06:10 PM
Sorry you have lost me?

I think he means to rebate the end pieces into the sides, if it were the other way around it would be easier to break the ends off.

Winnie
21st November 2013, 06:13 PM
I will make it so the front looks like this so it all sits flush.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/11/85.jpg

Punderhead
21st November 2013, 09:09 PM
3719237193


This is what I mean

Cheers

BigRAWesty
21st November 2013, 09:16 PM
Yep, but how do you fill the gaps along side the draws??

As said father in-law has done his on the front and been that way for 15 years in his 80 series. Still as solid as the day he built it.
Quality ply, we used chip board screw and pre drilled and counter sunk the holes and it's a solid unit.
Screw every 100-150 mm along..
Another little tip, carpet your lid and then screw it down. If you carpet over the screws you'll never get it out in one piece..

And the liquid gel grip and cheap paint roller is awesome for large areas..

Punderhead
21st November 2013, 09:23 PM
Yep, but how do you fill the gaps along side the draws??



You can put on a false front, and while it may pull off, you still have the other bit of ply yo form a front and stop all your gear falling out37194

Cheers

MudRunnerTD
21st November 2013, 09:41 PM
You can put on a false front, and while it may pull off, you still have the other bit of ply yo form a front and stop all your gear falling out37194

Cheers


This pic is how it should be done. Just screw the drawer front onto the carcass of the drawer from inside and it will never pull off.

Line the insides of the drawers with Carpet will help your load stay quiet off road. Avoid internal rails as they can catch you load and can be a pain in the arse when opening the drawers when they are full.

Incorporate a pull out table under the drawers Chris, easy to do and a real winner mate. If you want details I am happy to do a couple of sketches for you bud. Plunder heads second pic is a winner though.

Winnie
21st November 2013, 09:43 PM
Thanks for the advice guys!
Darren I will have a lid on one of the drawers to be used as a table. Kris has it in his GU and I love the idea, no loss of storage space and is easy peasy

Drewboyaus
21st November 2013, 09:52 PM
Thanks for the advice guys!
Darren I will have a lid on one of the drawers to be used as a table. Kris has it in his GU and I love the idea, no loss of storage space and is easy peasy

Until you're cooking and you need something that's under the lid.
I have a pull out table that comes out from under my fridge slide. I can cook and access the fridge and the drawer all at once. One of the reasons I like the drawers set up with the fridge mounted low on one side and the drawers lined up on top of one another next to it.

Winnie
21st November 2013, 09:54 PM
I cook on a real table.. Haha. The drawer table would be for quick lunch stops to whip up a sandwich or something