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View Full Version : ZD30 Overheating....checked everything....now what?



Taygz
20th January 2011, 11:54 PM
Ok here is the run down....

Car started to get warm (no more than 3/4 on the gauge) paticularly when towing. On a recent 600km round trip to tom price the car got warm with out towing but the it was 40+ out side. Turned the heater on and the temp went down. Travel slower and the temp went down....

Replaced the viscous coupling including water pump, thermostat and even wheel beerings.
Still over heated.......

Had radiator rodded out....still over heated.....

replaced thermostat again and still over heating.......


Car has intercooler fan, blocked EGR, boost lmited to 16psi, cleaned MAF....
ran ECUtalk and confirmed temps gtting to 109 degrees when gauge at 3/4.


ANY IDEAS?

YNOT
21st January 2011, 06:44 AM
It could be a faulty temperature sender unit. ECUtalk gets it's information from the same sender as the cars temp gauge.

Tony

Taygz
21st January 2011, 10:03 AM
Oh ok cool, i have a new one on the way and a new MAF too....fingers crossed!

Taygz
17th February 2011, 10:22 PM
ok replaced the coolant temp sensor and hoses but its still getting warm

Any advice?

Could it be timing? and can it be changed/checked?

Simon
18th February 2011, 07:53 AM
are you getting any water loss from the radiator OR is water getting into the oil in the motor OR are you getting water transferring to the overflow bottle when driving?

Taygz
23rd February 2011, 12:25 AM
No water loss, no water in oil and no oil in water.......

Overflow works as it should......fills up slightly when warm then sucks it back when cooling down.

NEXT?!?

the ferret
23rd February 2011, 12:52 AM
Timing won't have changed unless someone has had a go at it for some reason, yeah, I would start with the temp sender as said, and do a compression test urgently.

Chops
23rd February 2011, 12:55 AM
0208 Overheating Fault
Cooling Fan system failure, Engine coolant re-filling procedure not followed,
Cooling system faulty, Engine lubrication problem

Taygz
23rd February 2011, 11:29 PM
ok let me just go over what i have done again...

New coolant sensor
New MAF
New Radiator hoses
Radiator Rodded
Block fushed
New wheel bearings
Blocked EGR
Boost limited to 16psi
New Viscous hub and water pump.
Relocated number plate
Removed spot lights
Have Ecutalk...throws no fault codes
No water in oil
No oil in water
No coolant loss
Overflow system works as designed
Flushed engine oil with CEM
New air and oil filters

Is there anything i missed?


oops forgot about the new thermostats and the new radiator caps.....

Simon
23rd February 2011, 11:54 PM
Well firstly you only fushed your block... ha... okay so I take it your a little over this...

You could try replacing the radiator cap especially if it is an old one...

The radiator cap is designed to hold the fluid up to a pressure which allows it to heat past 100degrees at times. When this happens the radiator becomes more efficient at removing heat. If the cap is leaking it will not allow you to get any pressure etc etc...

that is not a likely cause but its possible...

Have you checked the thermostat in the block? If not I would suggest pulling it out, put it in a pot on the stove and heat the water till it boils. Just before it boils bubbles will appear on the base of the pot... That occurs at about 90 ish degrees. When that happens the thermostat should open. If not wait till boiling, if it never opens then replace.

After doing that fill the radiator with tap water to start and run the motor for a while until the temp comes up. The thermostat should open and as it does the radiator will become empty (if it does keep topping it up with water) if it doesnt it might be full. What you are looking for is that you should see a flow of water past the radiator cap. If you cant tell put in a cup full of radiator fluid it will pump around and you will see the water change colour as it moves around and mixes.

If you are not getting good flow or any flow you may find that there is a restriction somewhere in the radiator system.

It sounds to me from reading your posts that the radiator cap is the source of your problems though. Even if it looks good its probably not. A test is to get a new one and hold it back to back with the old one. crush the springs closed in your hands while they are back to back. The one that crushes first will be the old one. If it fully crushes and the other cap is still only half crushed then your spring is old and losing tension...

Try this and report back :)

Taygz
24th February 2011, 12:31 AM
knew i forgot something.....

two different radiator caps and two thermostats and even not runnning a thermostat

And obviously when i had the radiator rodded it was cleaned out and i cleaned out the rest of the system, inlcuding overflow tank, heater core etc........

I can also see water in the coolant resovoir flowing considerably when the engine is running and with out the cap on the radiator water is flowing....

Simon
24th February 2011, 01:06 PM
not running a thermostat... well there ya go... Go to nissan and get one of the original ones and put it in... will fix ya problems almost certainly...

The termostat has a few tasks... One is to regulate water temp in the block around the cylinders another job is to regulate flow. Your pump is capable of pumping way way more fluid around than it needs to. It really is designed to pump around enough water at idle so anything above idle and its pumping too fast. When water flows through the radiator too fast you dont get a chance to remove much heat from it and so it needs to move through at a pace that is slow enough to cool enough water but not so fast that it never gets a chance to cool down.

So long and short of it

Go get a thermostat and watch all your problems disapper... (no promises but I bet its your problem)

Simon
24th February 2011, 01:12 PM
btw the thermostat regulates the flow by having a reduced cross section (the hole in it around the valve is smaller than the cross section of the pipe). This does a few things.. It creates a pressure drop across it to maintain pressure in the motor and reduce pressure in the radiator (marginal but hey) and it slows the flow in the hosing...

Taygz
24th February 2011, 03:09 PM
it was my mechanics idea to try without the thermostat after we tried it with two different thermostats from two different brands and it still did the same thing....

It might be the no thermostat but considering it was doing WITH two different thermostats i doubt it....

But thank you ill give it a go...

Atleast its a different idea of the problem!

isagone
10th November 2013, 11:10 PM
Hi I was cruising internet trying to find information about my 06 3L Navarra overheating Ive got same problem as you had in Feb Can you please let me know how you sorted the problem out Thanks Marty

threedogs
11th November 2013, 07:52 AM
Hi Marty most ppl post an intro before asking questions, just something this Forum asks of us all.
Isn't there a Navara Forum for your answers??

Clunk
11th November 2013, 09:30 AM
Hi I was cruising internet trying to find information about my 06 3L Navarra overheating Ive got same problem as you had in Feb Can you please let me know how you sorted the problem out Thanks Marty

G'day Marty, probably won't get an answer from the original poster, they haven't been back since Feb 2011.

Brisat
11th November 2013, 11:20 PM
Anyway for those that are interested, buy a 2 ltr bottle of Trix or some other good detergent.
With engine coldremove 2 ltrs water and put the detergent in its place. This will usually give you between 10-15 degrees gain.
The detergent works as a wetting agent and allows the water to get closer to the metal and extract a bit more heat out of the engine.
It will not foam up as its under pressure in the system.

Wine_maker
13th November 2013, 12:45 AM
Late injection moment? What about exhaust gas temperature and fuel consumption?