How do i change a gu cv

[Jams]

Hi guys, new to this forum and 4wding. My cv's are making a clicking sound whilist turning and driving.I assume there stuffed and have already bought new ones to put in. I have limited mechanical knowledge, but am willing to have a go, worse case i stuff it up, ill get a mechanic to fix it. Im after a detailed list of tools and steps on how to replace them, if any one can help that would be great!!! Oh and its on my family wagon, 4.2 diesel, 36 pedes, lockers etc

[YNOT]

Welcome to the forum Jams.
Just out of curiosity where abouts are you?

If you can wait a few days I should be able to do a full write up of the job with photos and a full list of tools. If you're planning on doing it sooner than that I'll try doing a write up from memory but there won't be any photos.

Tony

[Jams]

Hey YNOT, that would be orsome if you could a full write up with pics! Im in western suburbs of Vic. I'll keep a keen eye out! Thanks again!!

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey Jams, did you buy just the CVs or second handies connected to change over axles?

No disrespect intended but changing CVs can get quite involved to be honest and not really where you should "Start" you mechanical education alone in your shed.

Unfortunately, if you do stuff it up you will have a vehicle that is not really drivable and you may need to get a mechanic in, someone like LubeMobile would get you out of trouble if needed though.

Take a look at what Tony puts together for you for sure mate, but be aware this is not a job that should be undertaken lightly.

Good luck.

[YNOT]

The front diff I was working on for this article was out of a GQ Patrol and was fitted with Nissan manual hubs. The job is the same on GU Patrol with only minor differences in the hub nut area.

Step 1; Jack up front of vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove front wheels.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/CFD.jpg

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/CFD2.jpg

Step 2; Remove front brake calliper and mounting frame. Secure the calliper out of the way, I usually zip tie them loosely to the coil spring. DO NOT allow the calliper to hang down on the brake hose. Tools – 7/8 or 22mm socket and short extension bar.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/calliperoff.jpg

Step 3; Remove free wheeling hub. Tools – 8mm allan key.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/FWHoffclose.jpg
The pic above is what you will see behind a Nissan manual hub, with a circlip on the outside of the hub drive gear. For vehicles with auto hubs you will not have the drive gear and will look more like the pic below, with the circlip further in on the splines. For auto hub vehicles, do not loose the spacer/washer behind the circlip.

Step 4; Remove the circlip and (for manual hub vehicles) hub drive gear. Tools – circlip pliers.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/hubnutson.jpg

Step 5; Using a flat blade screw driver prise out the 2 spacers from the hub. The GQ diff I was working on was missing the outside (stepped) spacer, but the inner parallel spacer can just be seen in the pic above. The pic below is a GU front end with both the spacers removed. The (stepped) spacer is sitting on the valve stem. When reassembling, the step on the spacer goes to the inside.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/GUhub2.jpg

Step 6; Remove the hub nuts. This is where there are minor differences between GQ and GU.
First pic below is GQ. There is a locking tab between the 2 hub nuts, one section of the tab will be folded up against one of the flats on the outer hub nut. Using a hammer and chisel, straighten out the flattened piece of tab and undo the lock nut. The correct tool is a 53mm hub socket (which has a narrower wall than a regular socket), but as not many people have these hub sockets, a hammer and chisel is often used.
Remove the locking tab and the inner hub nut.
Second pic below is GU (GQ 4.2 EFI is the same). Undo the 2 small Phillips head screws and remove the lock washer. Remove the hub nut.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/hubnutsoff.jpg

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/GUhublockring1.jpg

Step 7; Remove the brake hub.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/huboff.jpg

Step 8; Remove the 6 backing plate/ spindle bolts. Remove the backing plate. Tools – 14mm socket or spanner.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/backplateoff2.jpg

Step 9; Remove the spindle.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/spindleoff.jpg

Be careful when removing the spindle as there is a brass spacer on the inside that is easily lost.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/spindleclose.jpg

Step 10; CV joint can now be removed.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/CVout.jpg

Assembly is the reverse of above, I will add details for adjusting wheel bearings in a few days.

Tony

[beemer]

Great walk through, thanks Tony

[NissanGQ4.2]

Tony, is the GU pic of an Auto or Manual Hub??? Are the GU hubs the same as GQ Auto hubs?

You said "Second pic below is GU. Undo the 2 small Phillips head screws and remove the lock washer. Remove the hub nut."

Thats how my GQ Auto hubs are

Cheers

Todd

[YNOT]

Thanks Todd.

The GU pic is manual hub with the drive gear removed. I don't know exactly what the difference is between GQ and GU auto hubs (they look the same), but GU auto hubs will not fit a GQ unless you remove the auto locking mechanism.

Thanks for the feedback about your lock washer on your car. It would seem GQ EFI with twin piston front brakes has the same set up as GU.

As I rebuild these front hubs I will post up a few more articles which will partially cross over with this one, to cover replacing/repacking wheel bearings, replacing brakes, replacing axle oil seals. I need to get parts first.

Tony

[the ferret]

Top job Tony.

[patch697]

Tony I seen this last night & droped you a thanks cos you were posting up more to add to it but seen as others have posted so will I.

Bloody TOP JOB mate I take my hat off to ya.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Thanks Tony for enlightening me on the hubs.

I did mean 2 say top job on ur post, but then got carried away with wondering if the hubs were the same or not.

So Top Job mate, great set of destructions :)

[dsm2750]

Great work Tony .. Should be put up as a sticky for future reference

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey Tony great job on the pictorial and write up mate, nice work..

To add to this though it should be pointed out that "replacing" the CV in this pictorial is assuming that whoever is doing this has a second hand one still connected to the axle and are just doing a swap over.

If they are buying another CV then they will need to Press off and press on the new one onto the axle. which would be the next step. I wouldn't mind knowing how to do that to to be honest if you can add those pics, otherwise i would take the CV / Axle assembly somewhere for the CV swap..

Lastly.

Word of warning to those undertaking this, when refitting the new CV & Axle be very careful to limit the weight placed on the axle seal when installing the axle otherwise it will leak like a sieve. even a new axle seal will leak if treated badly. If doing the long side (the left) take extra care as the longer axle will get heavy installing it. Dont just "slide em in".

Good luck.

Well done Tony.

[YNOT]

Thanks MR.

I don't know about pressing the CV off the axle, if its anything like a front wheel drive CV (I have not tried it with a 4WD front CV) then it will be a case of securely holding the axle shaft in a vice, and using a brass drift and a hammer to knock the CV off the axle. On front wheel drives there is a spring clip on the end of the axle spline that locates in a recess in the CV joint spline, I think 4WD CV's would be the same.

You are correct about being very careful with the axle seals. It's good practice to replace the inner axle seals when ever you remove a CV, unless you like to play hard and break CV's on a regular basis! The inner axle seal can be seen still in the housing in the photo below. I will go into more detail regarding replacing these seals when I get new seals to install.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/CVout.jpg

Tony

[BoomBerger]

Very informative, thanks guys

[Ruby]

Tony,

I'm looking at replacing my rear rotors on a 98 4.5ltr GU. Do I basically do the steps up to step 7 and the just take the rotor apart. Any help would be appreciated. Have just downloaded the Factory Manual and will have a read tomorrow.

Thanks

TOOR

[YNOT]

Tony,

I'm looking at replacing my rear rotors on a 98 4.5ltr GU. Do I basically do the steps up to step 7 and the just take the rotor apart. Any help would be appreciated. Have just downloaded the Factory Manual and will have a read tomorrow.

Thanks

TOOR

No, rear rotors are much easier.
Remove the wheels (obviously!) remove the brake calliper bracket with calliper still attached then remove the rotor. Easy.

Tony

[Ruby]

Thanks Tony,

I'll ring around and get some prices for Rotors tomorrow

[Burden]

Thanks Tony, been getting a lot of good stuff from your write ups.

[YNOT]

Glad I could help you mate.

Tony

[qldtrucker]

great job with step by step picts ,

[Phil21]

Very Useful, many thanks

[Intenseracer]

Thanks for your efforts Tony this is a great step by step guide i'm pretty sure i'll try and give it ago.

[Gilbert]

Thanks for that posting. Great info. I was considering giving it a go, but now I dont think so. Looks like its a bit over my head. Dont want to start a job and then bugger it up.

[Lewy]

Nice right up Tony!! Its great to see people trying so hard to help out others...

Lewy

[Rick111]

Great write up Tony, first class info, I couldn't had done any better myself!! That must have taken a while for you to put all that info together. It always amazes me how helpfull some people are, great to see, as it doesn't happen too often where I come from. Keep up the great work mate.:clapping:

[maverick1]

Hey Tony,
Thanks so much for the pics! you did a great job! Just wondering though- should the inner wheel bearing sit flush within the outer race in the wheel hub? I rebuilt the hubs last year and about 4 months ago noticed low vibrating grind noise. So have pulled it all off again to find the problem.... just hoping to get help- its a lot tougher job for a female!

[growler2058]

Hey Tony,
Thanks so much for the pics! you did a great job! Just wondering though- should the inner wheel bearing sit flush within the outer race in the wheel hub? I rebuilt the hubs last year and about 4 months ago noticed low vibrating grind noise. So have pulled it all off again to find the problem.... just hoping to get help- its a lot tougher job for a female!

There should be a seal that holds the bearing in and keeps dirt/dust out, on both the big (rear bearing) and the small (front)
Did you replace the bearing cups when you did the bearings?

[MudRunnerTD]

Bloody Miss Tony! Damn he made a contribution! Anyone know where he might be these days and how we might invite him for a Hello?

[maverick1]

how sad, didn't know he had left! Yeh replaced all bearings, seals, spacers and bushings with a whole kit...

[Bob]

Bloody Miss Tony! Damn he made a contribution! Anyone know where he might be these days and how we might invite him for a Hello?

1000% agree. A man with a Mountain of knowledge and very willing to share
Would love to have him active on the Forum again.

[growler2058]

how sad, didn't know he had left! Yeh replaced all bearings, seals, spacers and bushings with a whole kit...

May sound obvious but did you pack the bearings really really really well with grease, and did you torque the nut up correctly ie not too tight

[MudRunnerTD]

Snip.........and did you torque the nut up correctly ie not too tight

Bloody Loose actually! After Tightening to bed and spinning the wheel a few times in each direction to bed the bearing and sort out the grease then completely undo the nut and tighten with your fingers only! 17ft/lb Not very tight

Make sure you sue your lock nut after

[maverick1]

yeh packed the bearings with grease Yukky job give it to you guys any day! It was someone helping who did the lock nuts so I'm not sure how tight they did them, although they weren't tight when I undid them. Question? how do you know if the bearings have had it now? We also used the wrong grease on that side, so I think that contributed to the problem. Should I change all the bearings again?
Thanks for helping!

[growler2058]

You should only need to do the side with the wrong grease

[maverick1]

so it turns out, that the grease was ok, so I am guessing that it must be something to do with the lock nut! So another question: How much grease do you use inside and on the outside of the trunnion socket? Many thanks in advance

[maverick1]

Here are some quick pics. Let me know what you think?

[Ben89]

You friggin beauty tony!!!!! You just saved myself alot of stress! Can't thank you enough for this mate

[growler2058]

You friggin beauty tony!!!!! You just saved myself alot of stress! Can't thank you enough for this mate

It's a brilliant post ay saved me a shipload of stress as well!!


Sent via my tapping thumbs

[BigRAWesty]

a bump for me..

[Wizard52]

After reading this thread, I would be prepared to have a go. Tony- you are a genius. Thank you

[mudnut]

G,day, all, this thread with pics is magnificent. I will be having a crack at my CV and axle seals as soon as my parts arrive as I have grease dribbling down the brake shield. I have two questions.

1. The hub seal definitely fits in with the two lips toward the CV, and the one big lip into the hub, doesn't it?

2. I have innox Extreme pressure M8 grease which is for farm machinery, marine, CV joints and brake wheel bearings. (Bloody expensive, but as water crossings are on the cards, I think it will be worth it). Has anyone had any dramas with it?

[YNOT]

G,day, all. I will be having a crack at my CV and axle seals as soon as my parts arrive as I have grease dribbling down the brake shield. I have two questions.

1. The hub seal definitely fits in with the two lips toward the CV, and the one big lip into the hub, doesn't it?

2. I have innox Extreme pressure M8 grease which is for farm machinery, marine, CV joints and brake wheel bearings. (Bloody expensive, but as water crossings are on the cards, I think it will be worth it). Has anyone had any dramas with it?

1. Big lip on the hub seal faces the CV.

2. That grease is high temperature rated so should be fine to use.

T.

[BigRAWesty]

Yea when I removed mine it was big lip (seal end, flat side) towards the cv.
Look at it like this. You use seals to keep oil grease etc in. The oil is thinner than grease so you want to keep the oil in the diff, so you place the seal as if the diff was a bearing, not the cc. Hope that makes sense..

Sent from my C6603 using Motorculture mobile app

[YNOT]

Yea when I removed mine it was big lip (seal end, flat side) towards the cv.
Look at it like this. You use seals to keep oil grease etc in. The oil is thinner than grease so you want to keep the oil in the diff, so you place the seal as if the diff was a bearing, not the cc. Hope that makes sense..

Thanks K I think I know what you're saying and you are correct, though in this case I think you are referring to the axle seal rather than the hub seal from the previous post.

T.

[mudnut]

I asked because I saw an experienced bloke fit a hub seal with the two smaller lips onto the vertical face of the spindle. Which is opposite to what was on my Old Trol when I took it apart to repack the bearings. The one big lip was rubbing on the spindle ,so I replaced it as such. so I'm still confused.

[MudRunnerTD]

I asked because I saw an experienced bloke fit a hub seal with the two smaller lips onto the vertical face of the spindle. Which is opposite to what was on my Old Trol when I took it apart to repack the bearings. The one big lip was rubbing on the spindle ,so I replaced it as such. so I'm still confused.

Hi Mudnut,

Do you mean this seal mate?

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/spindleclose.jpg

in the pic below you can see where is has rubbed on the CV. Note that it is shaped to fit straight onto the spindle and the "Lip" is facing towards the CV to create the seal when spinning.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx224/tonyh01/CVout.jpg

In the pic above you can also see the inner axle seal still in position in the diff housing. that is the bugger that most often fails and is the cause of the weeping of Diff Oil down teh inside of the inner stone guard. it is a bugger that the whole thing comes apart to get to it.

[mudnut]

The one actually in the hub. MR.

[MudRunnerTD]

The one actually in the hub. MR.


http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20gauges%20and%20stuff/Screenshot2011-08-14at103139AM.png

which seal in this diagram Mudnut?

[mudnut]

40227-C8200. Inner wheel bearing grease seal. The one that rotates with the hub, mate.

[mudnut]

Bump........

[Heinzy]

Awesome well put together

[BigRAWesty]

Yep I'll be needing this one soon

[MudRunnerTD]

AB Check out the photobucket pics above mate? Now have a water mark but are showing up? Is this across the forum?

[Bidja]

AB Check out the photobucket pics above mate? Now have a water mark but are showing up? Is this across the forum?

Hi Darren, commented on photo bucket watermark earlier today incorrectly, note that only post 17 pic does not have the water marks.

Looking at replacing GU inner axle seal and came across this thread. Tony has done a good job and yes the effort that he went to is terrific.

Some yrs back I replaced wheel bearings, hub dust seal, removed & greased CV and now the inner axle seal is weeping. My knuckle assy is in good nick, so will just repack bearing, CV, install new hub dust seal and inner axle seal.

To remove inner axle seal do I use a finger type inertia puller or what did you do (have not yet pulled down)?

Recall that you did a rebuild thread for front axle/knuckle flange assy, could you attach link. Thanks mate

[MudRunnerTD]

Hi Darren, commented on photo bucket watermark earlier today incorrectly, note that only post 17 pic does not have the water marks.

Looking at replacing GU inner axle seal and came across this thread. Tony has done a good job and yes the effort that he went to is terrific.

Some yrs back I replaced wheel bearings, hub dust seal, removed & greased CV and now the inner axle seal is weeping. My knuckle assy is in good nick, so will just repack bearing, CV, install new hub dust seal and inner axle seal.

To remove inner axle seal do I use a finger type inertia puller or what did you do (have not yet pulled down)?

Recall that you did a rebuild thread for front axle/knuckle flange assy, could you attach link. Thanks mate

Hi mate, it bbn is a Sticky in the DIY section i think.

[MudRunnerTD]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?28969-DIY-CV-and-Swivel-Hub-Rebuild-Thread