GU Second glove box mod DIY!!!

[mudski]

Ok after many contemplations on whether to do it or not as for many its a biggish task and if you stuff it up it will turn to poo!
So here it is ladies and gents! Your step by step guide with sizing, (in the pictures albeit) but you will get the drift and can change things to suit.
Also please excuse the quality of some pictures. I took everything with my phone so sometimes the camera didn't focus right, or where I wanted it to...:tease:
Also if you DO have a passenger side front air bag, you can't do this mod.
Parts you will require...


6mm MDF, a 600mm square sheet will do.
Nails. I used Florentine Bronze wall panels as they have the rough edge on them so they don't slip out. (See pic)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68313&stc=1


Wire trace for the extension straps

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68314&stc=1

The latch and hinges. I used a magnetic catch used for a t.v cabinet( push to release style) This also came with hinges which I modified and used. Cost under $10 from Bunnings (See pic)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68315&stc=1
I then bought another magnetic catch and used the part that would on on the door as it had another magnet in it. It was stronger than just having a metal plate there to catch onto. (See above pic)
Marine Carpet. Use colour of your choice. I just went to Bunnings and it came in 2m lenghts, so I got 500mm x 2000mm piece for under $20.
Glue for the carpet. I used Gorilla Grip.
Small screws for attaching the wire straps.

Tools you will require


Jigsaw
Cordless drill
Glue gun and plenty of glue sticks
Hammer
Measuring implement
Dremel ( Not a necessity but bloody handy)
Super Glue, Loctite 406 I used.

Consumables you will require


Beer or bevo of your choice
Patience

Other advise you will require


Take you time at it and it will work out great
REMEMBER! Measure Twice and cut once!
Imagine how you want it to look and envisage what you will do to make it look professional. And don't forget what you envisaged through the whole process. As for me anyway, if I do forget, the job won't turn out and look the way I want it too.

So off we go...

1.
First was to remove the dummy air bag lid. to do this you need to remove the lower glove box and access the eight ( I think it is ) screws that secure the dummy lid. Once removed you will see the part of the dash you need to cut.
The size I went for is 380mm wide by 120mm high. This left around 50mm or so spacing around the opening. This is totally up to you. But I though of keeping a lip there so when I carpet it I can fold the carpet outwards and glue it to the lip. I envisaged this :)
Draw out the area you want to cut, then drill a few starter holes and I used a hacksaw blade and cut it out. Then cleaned up the cut with a blade.
Once the cut piece is removed you will see the steel bar or brace there. This is what you will attach the box to. On the right side you will see a small metal bracket. Mine had nothing attached to it so I simply bent it up and back out of the way.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68316&stc=1

2.
Next I just made a cardboard template just to see how it was to fit and what I wanted. Most of these I have seen on the net didn't have a top to the box, some had deep sections in the base of the box, some had shelves, some even had power sockets in there. It all up to you.
Me. I went plain Jane. I might make another box down the track and add extra bits here and there.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68317&stc=1

3.
Making the box. This is where the nerves kicked in as I'm no chippie and my cuts are rough at best.
See the below pics of the box I made, it has sizes written on there, but remember! I'm no chippie. Use these sizes as a guide only.
TOP, see the angled edge? This goes with the bend of the steel pipe...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68318&stc=1
BOTTOM
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68320&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68321&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68319&stc=1
I first cut the base to the total width of the whole. Then made the sides and back to the height of the hole. Then the lid.
I WAS going to put the sides on top of the base but decided to put the sides, on the side of the base, for strength reasons. Top didn't matter. BUT, I then realised my base would be too wide for the whole now, with the two sides attached, by 12mm. So I trimmed the base, back and top to suit.
I used packing tape to hold it together temporarily, then got the glue gun out, nails out and went for it.
NOTE : Pre drill the MDF as it's 6mm and the nails will split the wood when you hammer the first nail in.
Use plenty of glue. The more the merrier. Don't be scared with this part.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68322&stc=1
[B]4.
Once it was done it was time to see how it fit in the hole. A few minor adjustments to the whole and it was really snug. Its best to have the whole a little smaller so you can then make minor adjustments as if its too lose it won't fit right and piss you off.
Mine was a bit of a struggle to get it in but it didn't want to come out which is good.
I then used a drill and drill two holes through the back plate of the box and into the steel bar. Then used some flat head self tapping screws to attach the box to the bar.
5.
Once it was secure I got the Dremel out and cut the edges of the box to the contour of the dash. I didn't get too close to the contour as I want to sand it back for the final shaping
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68326&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68323&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68324&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68325&stc=1
6.
Once cut I removed the box and sanded it up a bit


7.
I put it back in, and made sure I was satisfied with it, then removed it again ready for the carpet.
I cut the carpet in Six sections.


Base
Back
Top
Left side
Right side
Right, angled side

The base, back and sides is best to make them too long as after you have glued in it you can trim it off then. Just incase...
I used the Gorilla Grip glue and the glue gun for the edges so it would peel. Well It shouldn't...
Glued it up, stuffed it with newspaper and left it over night to dry.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68327&stc=1

[mudski]

8.
Once dry refit the box and screw it back in. I used those screw caps to cover the screw heads to make it look more professional.
I then used my glue gun to fold and glue the top and bottom carpeted edges down. The sides I just trimmed right off flush as I was going to simply cut the edge pieces to suit and glue them on.

Good tip. When you have angle cuts on the marine carpet you see a faint lighter edge on the carpet. Just run a black marker pen over that edge and it disappears. If your using dark carpet that is...
68328
9.
Now the box is done its time for the real headache. The lid! This is hard to explain so bear with me on this...
I first decide to work out how to hinge it. I had seen some people use piano hinge but I wanted it to look like it was factory fitted ( well hope for it).
So out of the latch kit I bought, (the t.v cabinet one) it also came with two metal hinges. I didn't get a good pic of these but it was a U shaped plate with a 8mm or so pin off one end. Measure it all up and the pin was just long enough to go through the side of the lid and into the dash board. The dummy lid is a tight fit so I was confident.
But, I did shave off about 1mm of the inside lip of the lid where the hinge was to sit just to make the pin a that little longer.
68329

68330

Once I was happy and before I secured the hinge, I proceeded to trim down the hinges to make them sit flush with the edge of the lid.
I trimmed the bottom side of the hinge too so it would sit lower in the curve of the lid as I wanted the pin to be centre of the lip, so when I do drill the hole for the pin I don't damage the plastic because the edge of it is too thin.
Place the hinge in the lid and mark where you will drill the whole. Take a deep breath and drill. Then mark on the outside of the lid where the whole is. This will be your marker for when you drill the dash.
Once drilled only secure one hinge in. So you can remove the lid when you want whilst doing all this. When your happy! Before you finish it all, then secure it in.
I used Hot glue for the under side of the hinge, to the lid and then the 406 on the side of the hinge, in between the lid of the lid and the hinge. It ain't going anywhere with 406 holding it in.
I know this sounds like mumbo jumbo, I'm trying here. But its easier to think it than to say it...
These pics might make you understand a little better.
68331


Plus you need to peel off the fine fabric trimming that goes around the edge of the lid so it make opening and closing the lid a smoother process. :)
10.
The next step is drilling the hole in the dash for the pin to sit in. I stuffed mine up big time. The holes were way out and the lid did not sit right.
So. This is the tricky bit. Making sure the hole you will drill in the dash is at the right spot. You should have the mark on the dash you made when lining up the lid. Note how deep back you need to drill. Too far out and the lid will sit out, too far in and the lid won't shut, too far up or down and its time to take a break and drink more beer :)
Anyhow my holes went from pin size to finger size, on BOTH sides. I still don't know how I managed to get it wrong but I had the magic putty and that fixes anything. This stuff once kneeded turns rock hard and can be drilled, tapped etc etc. So I stuffed the holes with it, made it nice, put my lid in, sat it right and pushed the pins into the putty to make the correct holes.
WICKED!!!!
68333
11.

Cut all the plastic mounting posts off except for the one in the top middle as you need something to mount the plate for the magnetic latch too. I also got rid of the ribs in the lid aswell.
The bottom edge nearest the hinge I trimmed it down as I though when I carpet it, it might interfere with the glove box. So I took around 5mm off it, then I eventually decided to make it flush with the rim of the entire lid.
68334

12.

Fit up the lid after everytime you do the next bit. Just to make sure... When your confident, glue the second hinge in...
68335

13.

Now it was time to make the extension straps. This plastic covered wire trace I got from the local fishing store was a treat. I could cut it to any length and all I had to do to make a loop on the end was, loop it over, give a it few twists then heat it with a lighter and your done!!! So simple, and strong too.
I simply attached the wire to the inside of the box using a small screw and washer. I then got the lid at the level I wanted, pre-drilled tiny pilot holes on the inside lip of the lid and used tiny tiny screws with tiny washers on them with a little glue. Just to make sure they wont come out.

Note : If your a computer nerd like me and have oodles of computer parts everywhere, now is you time to shine and rummage through all you parts for tiny washers and screws :)

14.
Carpet time. Simply make a trace of the base of the lid, copy it onto the carpet and cut away. Make note of where the screw mount is on the lid and make a small slice there and cut a small section out of the carpet so when you fit it, it sits neatly around that mount.
Now glue that mother in!!! Do the same for all the side of the lid. Make it look spesh!!! Can you tell I'm tire of typing yet?

15. Pay attention to this part.
Mount the spring loaded magnetic catch to the top under side of the box.
The next tricky bit is making sure the mounting plate on the lid will side true with the catch. Too high and it will hit the edge of the box when you try to close it, too low AND at the wrong angle and the magnet wont hold onto the lid. This part really did my head in. As the first way looked real neat. All you could see was a nice chrome plate on the lid. But I eventually found out it was hitting the lip of the box and wasn't closing.
So I went out and bought another magnetic catch. Picture on first page. I only used the magnetic plate of this as it also had a magnet to make the catch stronger plus it kind of rocked on a pic type thing so if the angle of the two pieces meeting was not quite right it would just move to the right angle. Ya get it? Huh..... A lot of trial and error was had here and nearly 8 stubbies in one sitting just to nut it out.
Also what I did was trim more off the top lip (closest to the lid catch plate) down a few mm. Because being a push to release type catch I wanted the lid to sit as flush as I could to thew dash when closed, so a bit had to be trimmed to give the extra movement when you pushed on the lid to open it.
Now with all this trimming on the lid, you can see the white edges. What I have done for now it used a black marker pen and coloured it all in. I will trim it with some very small and then fabric to make it neat.

16. Finito!!!

First pic is it basically finished but with the different, better looking catch. Second pic it the final design of the catch that works good.
68336
68337

and closed...Still about 1mm out but I am happy with the outcome.
68338
I do recommend if you want to is to put a small barrier along the front of the box, doesn't need to be high, just so anything you put in there doesn't push on the lid and pop it open. Thats the next bit for me.
Also if I was to do it again I would design the box so that the magnetic catch was flush with the box, not hanging down. But MEH! NEXT TIME!

Thank you for reading and trying to understand my dribble.

[Cbates]

Thanks mark! Ill be starting this on Saturday! Great write up! Much appreciated!

[mudski]

Reserved............for nothing.
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No! My Awesomeness!!!!

[Cuppa]

Great stuff Mudski, just what I needed.



Cuppa

[04OFF]

Great, all finished, but what do i do with this airbag thingy that was in the way ?





:tease:


Ha-ha, just remember you need to have a GU "without" a passenger side airbag to do this mod.

Seriously tho, one of the best write ups with instructions/pics ive seen for this mate, i already used the space to put my sub amp up behind there, so i can't actually do this great mod, but at least the space has not been wasted i guess.

[benno77gu]

looks great

[mudski]

Yeah! I'm already thinking of making it again but different. The hard bits are done. Five minutes and I can remove the box. But I have other things that need to be attended too first.

[threedogs]

I missed it could you start again please, after OK lol
Nah great Mod Mudski

[pbk1776]

What a great DIY mate
look so clean

[Bloodyaussie]

What a great DIY mate
look so clean

Yeah he is so anal like that... the guy is a neat freak!!!!!!!!

Looks really good as I have seen it first hand and is a bloody good use for that space.

[mudski]

Until you walk into my garage BA. That ain't neat.

[Cuppa]

Hey Mudski,
I got slightly enthused late this arvo & pulled out the glovebox & removed the dash cover. However as yet I haven't made the 'big cut' from which there is no turning back! :D
I hadn't expected to find no hole under the cover, I had thought there would be some sort of opening.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/115.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8781366658/)

A couple of questions before I make the cut.

1. What did you do to allow for the thickness of the carpet where it folds over the front to prevent the cover sticking out more than it usually does? Did you trim the cover edges by the thickness of the carpet, or did you leave a space around the side of the carpet where the edge of the cover sits?

2. Along the bottom of the cover there is a piece of steel. The latch for the original glovebox screws into it. Did you remove this, or part of it? I'm wondering how important it is to give rigidity to the plastic along the bottom. I know I can cut it & glue it in place to provide for attaching the original glovebox latch, but on it's right hand end it also seems to be an integral part of what's holds the dash facia in place, & I'm wondering if removing it will compromise some of the dash's integrity? What did you do with it?
Would welcome your thoughts.

Cuppa

[happygu]

Hey Mudski,
I got slightly enthused late this arvo & pulled out the glovebox & removed the dash cover. However as yet I haven't made the 'big cut' from which there is no turning back! :D
I hadn't expected to find no hole under the cover, I had thought there would be some sort of opening.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/115.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8781366658/)

A couple of questions before I make the cut.

1. What did you do to allow for the thickness of the carpet where it folds over the front to prevent the cover sticking out more than it usually does? Did you trim the cover edges by the thickness of the carpet, or did you leave a space around the side of the carpet where the edge of the cover sits?

2. Along the bottom of the cover there is a piece of steel. The latch for the original glovebox screws into it. Did you remove this, or part of it? I'm wondering how important it is to give rigidity to the plastic along the bottom. I know I can cut it & glue it in place to provide for attaching the original glovebox latch, but on it's right hand end it also seems to be an integral part of what's holds the dash facia in place, & I'm wondering if removing it will compromise some of the dash's integrity? What did you do with it?
Would welcome your thoughts.

Cuppa

Don't cut too far past the bit that is sitting proud in the middle.

You need to leave the bottom rail, and enough material around the edges for the outer cover to sit against.

Mic

[mudski]

Hey Mudski,
I got slightly enthused late this arvo & pulled out the glovebox & removed the dash cover. However as yet I haven't made the 'big cut' from which there is no turning back! :D
I hadn't expected to find no hole under the cover, I had thought there would be some sort of opening.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/115.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8781366658/)

A couple of questions before I make the cut.

1. What did you do to allow for the thickness of the carpet where it folds over the front to prevent the cover sticking out more than it usually does? Did you trim the cover edges by the thickness of the carpet, or did you leave a space around the side of the carpet where the edge of the cover sits?

2. Along the bottom of the cover there is a piece of steel. The latch for the original glovebox screws into it. Did you remove this, or part of it? I'm wondering how important it is to give rigidity to the plastic along the bottom. I know I can cut it & glue it in place to provide for attaching the original glovebox latch, but on it's right hand end it also seems to be an integral part of what's holds the dash facia in place, & I'm wondering if removing it will compromise some of the dash's integrity? What did you do with it?
Would welcome your thoughts.

Cuppa

Answer to Question one.
I did trim the cover edges back so it would sit flush and still be able to be pushed in to release the cover. But I did that right at the end.
I didn't really allow for the carpet thickness on the edges I just made sure I was about 20 or so mm from the most outer edge of where you want to cut. This part you can decide as this will be the size of the box you need to make it too.
Answer to question two.
That metal strip needs to be there so the latch for the original glove box has something to screw into. Plus the two outer top screw go into it aswell.
Mine wasn't attached to anything on the right hand side, although I suspect it was supposed to be I didn't do anything there.
After I trimmed the metal strip down I had to hold the strip onto the dash somehow. Glueing it didn't work so I just taped it on and after the lower glove box is screwed in it doesn't matter anyway.

Get into it Cuppa!!!!

Edit. I think mate that the metal strip screws onto a bracket up behind that plastic section you need to cut. If so this bracket you need to bend out of the way anyhow.
I'm only guessing on this part as the metal strip on mine wasn't actually attached to the dash on the rhs at all. I just remembered this bracket I had to bend out of the way.

[Bloodyaussie]

oowww scary Ian...... it's like doing your own snorkel, cut that big hole on the side of your car?

[P4trol]

Watching closely, because my glove box has looked like the Pic above for over 6 months now.

[healy]

Watching closely, because my glove box has looked like the Pic above for over 6 months now.

Just cut it open and build the box it is a very simple job

[Cuppa]

Well there's no going back now! Ooo-er, gulp. :D
Hole is cut.
Am trying to retain the piece of steel along the bottom of the new opening without compromising the size of the opening. I think it will work & might help to avoid creaks & groans on rough roads?

Btw Mudski, that piece of steel attaches with a single screw to the plastic facia on it's right hand end. With the radio surround removed & the use of a torch & mirror you can just see the screw head. With the hole cut it is possible to unscrew it with a stubby philips screwdriver, the head of the screw faces forwards giving just enough room to get the screwdriver in there. Might be fun lining it up to put back though
Have cut the piece of steel, whilst ensuring that I can still attach the original glovebox to it on the top left side. Have left small tabs of plastic in the bottom corners of the hole I cut so I can rivet the steel piece in place. Will take some pics after I've eaten & before proceeding further.

Cuppa

[mudski]

Watching closely, because my glove box has looked like the Pic above for over 6 months now.
Just read my walkthrough mate. It's all there for you.



Well there's no going back now! Ooo-er, gulp. :D
Hole is cut.
Am trying to retain the piece of steel along the bottom of the new opening without compromising the size of the opening. I think it will work & might help to avoid creaks & groans on rough roads?

Btw Mudski, that piece of steel attaches with a single screw to the plastic facia on it's right hand end. With the radio surround removed & the use of a torch & mirror you can just see the screw head. With the hole cut it is possible to unscrew it with a stubby philips screwdriver, the head of the screw faces forwards giving just enough room to get the screwdriver in there. Might be fun lining it up to put back though
Have cut the piece of steel, whilst ensuring that I can still attach the original glovebox to it on the top left side. Have left small tabs of plastic in the bottom corners of the hole I cut so I can rivet the steel piece in place. Will take some pics after I've eaten & before proceeding further.

Cuppa
Thats right it does too. I remember now unscrewing it. Duh! I basically had to half the length ways width of the steel so I could make the opening the size I wanted.
Just remember when making the box. Don't try to cut the ends to the contours of the glove box by measurement. Its easier to make the box with longer sides. Fit it in and screw it to the back bar. Then get a pencil out and trace the edge line. If you know what I mean. Or in my case, just used my Dremel and cut it on the spot. Then I removed it and sand it back a little.

[Cuppa]

Well here's my progress today. Sounds like I've done pretty similar to you with that piece of steel, . The 'corner tabs' will no doubt make getting the box on a bit more difficult, but I thought they were worth a try, if all else fails I'll cut them off. I'm thinking that I'll try having the 'floor' of the box sloping down & then levelling out to make it deeper. I think it'll look better with a slope than with a sunken box in the middle of it like i've seen on a diy elsewhere, & should give a little more space. I'm also thinking that I may not put a top on the box because the extra height would be useful so I can discreetly leave the iPad in there charging, & the only way i could fit the iPad in would be without a top. Still haven't decide exactly how I'll go yet, may have to make a two part box & fix it together once inside the space. Still playing with cardboard mock ups.
The bit that I'm most worried about is the hinge. There seems very little to attach it to, but knowing that you & others have successfully managed it gives me confidence that I'll manage.

My hole looks pretty much like your hole (which is hardly surprising) except for the two bottom corners.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/117.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8798898032/)

The piece of steel with the section I cut out of it.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/118.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8798907034/)

The piece of steel fitted back in, & rivetted to the plastic 'corner tabs, with the original glovebox replaced. Getting the almost hidden screw at the right hand end of the piece of steel screwed back in was achieved with a torch, a mirror & a piece of blu tack holding the screw on the end of the screwdriver & patience.
The four screws holding the original glovebox that can be seen will screw into the 'box', holding it securely at the front ....I think.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/119.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8798904964/)

Now to make a shopping list for Bunnings.

Cuppa

[threedogs]

@ Cuppa what did you cut it with?? 90 degree disc [AIR] or jig saw

[mudski]

Just need a hacksaw blade then clean it up with a sharp blade.

[threedogs]

Couldn't do it , have no drill no cut policy on the GU, but will see how Cuppa turns out
Slight bit of surface rust there too buddy.

[Cuppa]

@ Cuppa what did you cut it with?? 90 degree disc [AIR] or jig saw

Neither TD. I made four small slots to get started with an angle grinder fitted with one of those very thin cut off discs, & then cut the rest with the hacksaw blade you can see on the floor in the last pic. The cutting disc needed very judicious use as the speed of the disc melts the plastic if held against it for more than a second or two. The slots were cut with several applications of the disc, & were only just enough to get the hacksaw blade into. I had several practice goes in the middle of the panel before cutting the final shape. Trimmed up with a stanley knife with new blade.

Cuppa

[mudski]

Couldn't do it , have no drill no cut policy on the GU, but will see how Cuppa turns out
Slight bit of surface rust there too buddy.
Huh! Whats the bloody difference. You make me laugh TD.

[threedogs]

I make you laugh ,shite I make me laugh too,
I have a B&D finger file which looks like it'll come in handy
if I decide to do it, good thing my BFF and 2nd BFF were
head of sheetmetal dept at large Aust airline, Piece of cake for them,
my only concern is the lock arrangement. A great use of otherwise wasted space.
Now I can see what it looks like a 7" screen looks like it'll fit nicely, for nav and dvd
when travelling

[Bloodyaussie]

Looking good Ian... I have one of those new fangle cuting blade type things that look like an angle grinder and they are bloody handy!!

[mudski]

I make you laugh ,shite I make me laugh too,
I have a B&D finger file which looks like it'll come in handy
if I decide to do it, good thing my BFF and 2nd BFF were
head of sheetmetal dept at large Aust airline, Piece of cake for them,
my only concern is the lock arrangement. A great use of otherwise wasted space.
Now I can see what it looks like a 7" screen looks like it'll fit nicely, for nav and dvd
when travelling
You look to hard into things mate. Just do it.
You want a brilliant hidden lock idea? Have you even seen those locks, commonly used in kitchens of the elderly? They are magnetic locks which cannot been seen from the outside of the door and the only way to unlock the door is pass a magnetic key over the lock on the outside of the door.

anyhow I found if you use a spinning type cutting device on plastic you melt it aswell as cut it and it gets messy.

[threedogs]

Right Hows this for idea, Kallen touched on it from another thread, Make a block of timber to suit the space
required. Smooth it all up and go get a heap vacuum formed, each one is perfect fit and Identical to next one.
Price wise I would guess very inexpensive, and strong, ideal for this application.
You can pick colour thickness ,what ever, I had heaps made and used as a Map pocket. will put pic shortely

@ Mudski ,no haven't seen these locks,
I'll follow Cuppa, he seems to going along ok
Heres pic of Map pocket you basically put a square piece of timber of desired size on machine,
cut in half and trim, was very handy in street directory days

[mudski]

Right Hows this for idea, Kallen touched on it from another thread, Make a block of timber to suit the space
required. Smooth it all up and go get a heap vacuum formed, each one is perfect fit and Identical to next one.
Price wise I would guess very inexpensive, and strong, ideal for this application.
You can pick colour thickness ,what ever, I had heaps made and used as a Map pocket. will put pic shortely


Dunno what your quite getting at there TD. The box I made is very strong. I stood on it after I had it all together. I ani't gonna bust in a hurry.
Are you talking about Vinyl wrap? Like on kitchen and vanities? If so thats not cheap to do. When I did my bathroom I custom built my own vanity and had it vinyl wrapped. Not cheap at all.



@ Mudski ,no haven't seen these locks,
I'll follow Cuppa, he seems to going along ok
Heres pic of Map pocket you basically put a square piece of timber of desired size on machine,
cut in half and trim, was very handy in street directory days

You need to get some carpet on that or cover it I reckon.I'll see if I can find the said lock and take a pic.
Anyhow I put in a little barrier I suppose you call it. At the front so nothing will lean against the door and push it open. Its only 25mm high, took a whole 5 minutes to make and fit. I might even make it smaller if I think its too much. Hard to see in the pic as the carpet blends together but it works well.
29549

[Cuppa]

Having read & re-read Mudski's diy description I took off to Bunnings yesterday with shopping list in hand. Always a dangerous thing to do .... wander around Bunnings that is ..... I left with my wallet $171 lighter (having splashed out on a Bosch hot glue gun & a box of glue sticks which will probably last me for years), plus a goodly variety of other adhesives, 6mm MDF, nails, & the all important push to open magnetic catch etc etc.... and the usual couple of impulse buys of course! Then next door to Spotlight (how handy) to buy some fabric, I don't know what it's called, but very similar to the carpet that most folk use, but a bit thinner & more pliable. Cost about the same as the carpet in Bunnings. Then next door to Rays Outdoors (how handy again) to get some nylon coated fishing wire trace whilst managing to keep my impulse buying in check ..... my time in town was done...... back up the mountain to 'chez Cuppa'.

This morning I have been playing around with cardboard making a 'mock up' box. I've utilised some aluminium extrusion I had left over from the fitout in the Patrol's canopy which I cut down to make a sloping front section, giving the box a little extra depth & a 'lip' to stop stuff rolling out. I also used some aluminium angle to aid in the construction. This will provide a bit of bracing where needed as well as giving somewhere to screw the 'removable' sections to. There will be 3 sections, one main one which slips into the aperture, & two smaller sections which will screw in afterwards. This will mean that the wole thing remains removable should access behind it ever be required. A 4th piece may be needed across the top front to attach the magnetic catch to ..... haven't reached that stage yet.

I have also bought, courtesy of ebay, a Narva double USB outlet which will go into the box. No 'roof' on the box, as the extra height was required to fit the iPad inside, one of the main reasons for doing this mod .... a place to store the iPad out of the sun & out of view where it can remain on charge. A switch on the dash will operate the USB ports, so that the ignition doesn't need to be on. A small 'lip' will bee attached somehow to the front of the upper rear shelf.

So far so good ...... how cardboard will translate into MDF remains to be seen, let alone covering the lot. I think a total of 9 screws will be needed to hold it all in place. 3 for each section.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/122.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8820492184/)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/123.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8809911475/)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/124.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8809892417/)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/125.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8820473872/)

Cuppa

[threedogs]

@ Mudski not saying your MDF is not strong, I'm sure it is all I'm trying to say is a Vacuum former would be ideal
I foe example say Cuppa made his template solid timber, .It could then be placed on the former and any number made for anyone requiring one'

@ Cuppa great restraint we have supercheap ,Rays and Bunnings next to each other with Dan Murphy over the road lol.
any chance of pic of the back of the new door before its covered, as looking at Mudski's might just be room to house
a 7" screen and still be protected.

@ Cuppa again or just fibreglass your cardboard template lip on rear shelf included.

[Cuppa]

TD, I don't think your vacuum forming would work, at least not if you wanted a glovebox like I'm making. The problem is getting the 'box' in through the hole. This is why my one is not all one piece. Same reason why I couldn't fibreglass the rear shelf on..... it just wouldn't be possible to manouvre it into place. I am certain that this is the reason that the commercially available 'Department of the Interior' 2nd Glovebox is so much smaller than just about every diy glovebox.

I also want to make the box removable in case access to the heater/air con channels behind is ever needed, so fibreglassing bits on once in place is also not a viable option.

Have just come in for a cuppa whilst some contact adhesive goes off, will check dimensions of the front panel when I go out again.

Cuppa

[threedogs]

Thanks I thought the whole lot would just slide in and out, now does that mean the box part needs to be 2 piece
and assembled once inside cavity, will continue watching, I like to watch, lol
Hows that Cuppa having a cuppa lol

[Cuppa]

now does that mean the box part needs to be 2 piece
and assembled once inside cavity,

3 pieces as I said earlier!
Now here you go TD, don't say I never do anything for you.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/126.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8812222379/)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/127.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8822809118/)

Now get that saw out & start installing your screen.

Cuppa

[mudski]

Cuppa, just make sure the box your making doesn't sit too low and hit the other glove box. Prolly doesn't, just a heads up just in case.

[Remmy]

Very nice work there gents, looking forward to the end result.

Cheers

Remmy

[Bloodyaussie]

Good work Ian.... good to see you sharing your experiance as you go mate...!!

[Cuppa]

Copying the cardboard mock up into the more rigid MDF required a few 'adjustments here & there to get the box sitting right inside the dash aperture, had me sctatching my head for a while but it eventually came good with the addition of a strategically placed 3mm packing piece. Aluminium angle was attached to the MDF using contact adhesive (after roughing up both surfaces) & then riveted together. The top rear wall & the left hand side wall screw on once the box is in position.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/131.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8839656148/)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/132.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8839655790/)

Cuppa

[Stropp]

Cuppa I think I will need you to cut one out for me and post it over, I can cover it and screw it together, that's about the only way I will get mine done. Btw looks great!

[Cuppa]

Cuppa I think I will need you to cut one out for me and post it over, I can cover it and screw it together, that's about the only way I will get mine done. Btw looks great!

Yeah right! Dream on mate!
I had under estimated how much stuffing around is involved. Today I reckon I've spent another 3 hours just 'adjusting' things (cutting, drilling, sanding) to get the whole thing to sit right with the two screw on sections in place. Plus the top four screws which hold the original glovebox on were pushing up the bottom of the new one. All sorted now but enough of a hassle to make it a definite one off! And things could still go pear shaped whilst covering it with fabric ..... & I haven't even started on the door yet!

Cuppa

[mudski]

Thats IT!!! I now have to rip mine out and start all over again...
Stopp. Once you get started its not really that hard to do. It's just starting it is the issue. Getting over the nerves of cutting into your dash. But once that first cut is done you get more into it as you can't turn back after that.

[Cuppa]

Thats IT!!! I now have to rip mine out and start all over again...
Stopp. Once you get started its not really that hard to do. It's just starting it is the issue. Getting over the nerves of cutting into your dash. But once that first cut is done you get more into it as you can't turn back after that.

LOL.
Agreed it's not hard, but it is fiddly & time consuming ....... but we all need things to keep us occupied eh?

[threedogs]

@ Cuppa Flat pack one here too please
Meaning all we need is dimentions of all the pieces
to glue and screw together. like blue prints.
No point 8 ppl doing 8 different sizes
Me I'd be fibre glassing all that now and giving it a final shaping [sand]
Edited again is it 9 odd pieces I counted

[Cuppa]

TD, ya gotta understand the way in which I work! I make it up as I go along..... except in this instance I've borrowed heavily on Mudski's previous & documented experience. I could measure up all the pieces of cardboard I had for the mock up, I could even reproduce them on card or similar........ but they would be of no help to anybody because since cutting out the shapes & fitting them together, most of them have been altered again.... And they don't come apart.

And ya gotta learn to count ...... there's 13 pieces. :) (14 if you include the packing piece) ..... & that doesn't include the piece of auminium angle I cut but forgot to use 'cos i'd already glued & nailed before I found it laying in the foot well .

As for fibreglassing, I'll pass ................ & wait to see what you can come up with. ;)

Cuppa

[threedogs]

Would've been a starting place but no biggie, there has to be a product out there similar to POR15 that you can brush over the lot
or varnish and spray with Chook shite. Carpet to me is for Hot rods Still ok but has to be some product out there.
Did alright on my guzintas and take aways too

[mudski]

TD, ya gotta understand the way in which I work! I make it up as I go along..... except in this instance I've borrowed heavily on Mudski's previous & documented experience. I could measure up all the pieces of cardboard I had for the mock up, I could even reproduce them on card or similar........ but they would be of no help to anybody because since cutting out the shapes & fitting them together, most of them have been altered again.... And they don't come apart.


Cuppa
^^^^^^
This.
Same as mine. Even with the sizes it gets altered here and there. Even do what I did cuppa and write the measurements on the wood and take photos. Then people can make their own judgement. As for fibre glassing. A bit too far I reckon. Especially if your going to line the inside of it. Thats why mine looked like a dog's breakfast without the carpet lining. With the lining it looks almost factory. Who cares what it looks like from behind, you won't see it. You don't look at the mantle piece while your stoking the fire...

[Cuppa]

I should've used the carpet rather than the thinner 'Spotlight' fabric. Being thin wasn't the issue, but rather the fact that it's surface has a raised parallel rib pattern meaning that far more care is required to get things sitting right. Easier said than done on a complex 3D shape. I wasn't born to be an upholsterer (or a dressmaker)! Took me most of the day stuffing around with this (in between herding sheep with newborn lambs around which is only slightly easier than herding cats). I'm reasonably happy with the result, although the black screw caps are more prominent on the fabric than I'd hoped. There will be another 3 at the back when the box is fitted in place which unfortunately don't line up the others. Maybe I'll do without the black caps? If doing it again (which I won't be) I'd choose black rather than 'Charcoal'covering. There is a lip at the front of the rear shelf, but it's hard to see in the pic. Socket is a USB port for charging the iPad.
Flaps of fabric at bottom front & sides are to be finished once box is installed.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/139.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8866137820/)

Cuppa

[P4trol]

Try the local upholsterer/trimmer for offcuts. That is literally how much you will use. Potentially free as well.

[Cuppa]

Try the local upholsterer/trimmer for offcuts. That is literally how much you will use. Potentially free as well.

It's all stuck on now ....... I won't be re-doing it!

[Cuppa]

I reckon it looks better without the black caps.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/05/140.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8866983530/)

[TPC]

Looks good Cuppa, much better without the black caps.
Wish I could do the same but have a air bag in the way.

[Bloodyaussie]

Looks good Cuppa, much better without the black caps.
Wish I could do the same but have a air bag in the way.

Just remove it with a hammer!!!!

[threedogs]

Before you go to much further what about internal LED light of some description.
Looking good BTW
Its a glove box and probably closed 90% of the time, wouldn't be worrying about black caps.
Maybe consult YsL

[Cuppa]

Now the box is done its time for the real headache. The lid! .

Understatement!
But with your help & an ingenious way to get the holes in the right place I'm getting there. The 'door' is hinged on & sitting quite nicely, but I can't really do any more until the box is secured in place, which needs the USB socket which I bought off ebay to first be installed. I'm waiting for the postman to deliver it.
Having cut the hinges as per Mudski, I ended up deciding not to use them. I was going to but my method of determining the hinge hole position in the dash convinced me that a pair of self tapper screws would do just as good a job. The hardest part was working out where to drill the two holes in the 'door'. Clearly they needed to be absolutely symmetrical, but determining the position was basically guess work. Having the 'tabs at the bottom corners of the aperture in the dash made the job more difficult as with my head in the position of the original glove box, looking up at the inside of the new 'door', those bloody little tabs obscured my view. In the end I drilled one hole in the 'door' & then stuffed around with vernier callipers for a while in an attempt to match the position on the other side of the door. Whoever said that this job was easy was over stating their case! It's damned hard & stressful & in my case done without the soothing effects of beer!

Anyway I was smart enough to drill those two holes with the the smallest drill bit I had, a 2mm one, based on the thought that if I stuffed up, at least I'd probably get a second go. It was fortuitous that the 2mm holes were just the right size to allow the shaft of some 1/8th rivets to poke through. To determine the hole position in the dash I first sharpened the ends of the rivet shafts to a point on my bench grinder & then pushed them through the holes. With the points poking through the holes I then dipped each point into a tube of engineers blue, just a tad, & then withdrew each rivet until the point was just hidden. Once the 'door' was in position on the dash I was able, from inside, to push each sharpened pin against the dash & withdraw it, leaving a tiny blue spot. The point prevented the 'blue' messing up the dash (It would be hard to remove). I then drilled two 2mm holes in the dash, & used the (now wiped clean) rivets to poke through, creating temporary hinges, to evaluate my work, with which I was pleased to say "YES! you little beauty" aloud to myself.
Of importance was the fact that at this point the lower section of the door had NOT been trimmed, this allowed it to sit as Mr Nissan had intended. I later trimmed it, & the top lip, as per Mudski's instructions. The holes have now been enlarged to 4.8mm diameter, just fractionally bigger than the self tappers I've used. The holes in the dash are smaller to ensure the screws go in tightly, so that the srews don't turn as the 'door' is opened & shut.

Talking of Mudski's instructions, I am still kicking myself for not re-reading them before attacking the inside of the 'door' with the angle grinder. I should have left it, I was tired & weary, just the right scenario in which to make silly mistakes, & yep, I made a silly mistake. Mudski cut off all the plastic 'mounting posts' except one, which he left to mount the magnet for the latch on. I cut them all off, & then cursed ..... loudly. I am hopeful that I can build up a base to fix to the inside of the door with adhesive, but the inside is roughened from the angle grinder so I'm not certain that loctite 406 will work. I have been experimenting with various adhesives on the bits of dash from when I cut the hole, but I'm not totally certain that it is the same pastic as that used in the 'door'. If worst comes to the worst I'll use epoxy to attach a piece of timber & some carpet attached with contact adhesive to reinforce it. Having been learning a lot about polyolefins & the difficulty in in gluing them!

I have attached the 'push to open' catch directly onto the dash using a piece of aluminium angle with the 90 degree angle reduced in the vice to get the catch sitting at the correct angle. it is temprarily held in place with small self tappers at the moment, but will be riveted & glued eventually. The temporary setup has allowed me to 'test run' the catch & all seems lined up reasonably well.

Am now waiting on the postie before I can do any more.

Cuppa

[P4trol]

Epic post, but the progress pics didn't attach...

[Cuppa]

LOL
Just the epic post this time. ...... no pics of my mistakes or stressed facial expressions!

Cuppa

[Cuppa]

Well my 2nd glovebox is now finished & once again I thank Mudski for the inspiration & confidence his write up gave me. As is obvious from my pics I didn't copy him ...... instead I made the job rather more difficult for myself. In fact I'd say it is probably the hardest thing I've done in my Patrol's fit out to date, mainly because as Mudski so eloquently stated in his opening line of this thread "

if you stuff it up it will turn to poo!
Unlike most other jobs I've done on the vehicle, there are several points during the glovebox install where you don't get a second chance & if things do indeed turn to poo, it would be fairly deep!

However I managed to come through smelling of roses rather than sh*t.

A few more pics:

A detail shot showing how close to the edge the 'hinge' hole in the dash is.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/06/3.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8921391770/)

The 'push to open' magnetic latch mounted on aluminium angle which was 'closed up' a bit in the vice to get the latch sitting at the right angle. It works, but time will tell if the magnet is strong enough to hold the door shut on bumpy roads. I suspect I may have to add another magnet & adjust, but for now it works as it should. The pic shows the latch & it's mounting plate attached to the dash with a couple of small screws. Once I had determined the correct position of the latch that it was working correctly I attached the plate with glue & a couple of rivets. The rivets have a lower profile than screws & don't show under the carpet which was stuck over them. The actual latch can still be removed with a stubby phillips screwdriver.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/06/4.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8921391882/)

The fascia was carpeted separately to the box except at the bottom.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/06/5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8920775763/)

And now................. drum roll

Tadaa! The finished item ......yay!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/06/6.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8921392478/)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/06/7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8920776315/)

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/06/8.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8921393018/)

When closed the door sit's out slightly on the top right corner, but only a tad & I can live with that.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/06/9.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/cuppa500/8921395776/)

Overall I'm pleased with my efforts, but am glad it's over and done.

Cuppa

[Winnie]

AWESOME job Cuppa!

[mudski]

Haha! Late post but thats really great cuppa. Puts mine to shame.
How handy is it having the second glove box now. When I have time, which is virtually never, I will be making version 2.0 on the glove box. Five minutes and I can remove the hole box in mine.
Whats it like with no top on the box too Cuppa?
As for anyone else who does this and grinds that middle post off the lid like Cuppa did. Loctite 406 will hold it. That chit is very strong plus there is virtually no stress on it anyway.

[Cuppa]

Thanks Mudski, I'd still be thinking about it were it not for your encouragement.
Having no top on the 'box' is the way to go I reckon. Can't think of any downsides & the extra height is what allows me to stash my ipad in there. It just gives more space.
I can remove the box in a similar time, but would need to cut the carpet where it folds over the front along the bottom. No biggie really.
I have since added a small thin neodymium magnet to the catch to hold the door shut. It was ok, but occasionally opened on corrugated road. Now it's really good.

Cuppa

[threedogs]

@ Cuppa or Mudski how big can you go,
like is the top of the other glove box your limit ??

[Cuppa]

I went as low as I thought possible TD. When working it out I placed some 5mm or 7mm ply across the top of the existing glove box to give a small clearance.

Cuppa

[mudski]

Yer I'm seriously thinking of version 2.0 right now. As like cuppa does, he can store his Crapple in there. I can't. Plus my next one will have a hidden lock so its locked and even pressing on it won't open it. Big plans, big plans. I just gotta buy my Galaxy Note and GoPro first. Bloody close to day from buying a GoPro, stopped at Autobarn in Eltham to get a relay and they had them on Display with a looped video on one being used in about 30 different ways and places. GAWD I WANT ONE!!!!!

[threedogs]

Ok so Ill make a block up that the guys at "Q" mart can put on the machine that vacuums sucks plastic over any shape, great machine makes 2 door pockets out of one piece of wood.
When I look in my door pockets now it adds up to a bit so having a decent lock seems pointless. If I can make template in one hit I will other wise will be in 2 sections like Cuppa did.

[Cuppa]

3 sections on mine TD

[arbee]

does this come in a kit?

[megatexture]

Wish I didn't have airbags lol this mod I would do!

[Cuppa]

does this come in a kit?

Department of the Interior do one, but it is smaller internally.

[mudski]

Department of the Interior do one, but it is smaller internally.
And its garbage. I bought their one at first and it was poorly made and way too small. Best off making your own.

[TPC]

Department of the Interior do one, but it is smaller internally.


And its garbage. I bought their one and it was poorly made and way too small. Best off making your own.

Not everyone is as good as you two doing that sort of stuff, I think as you are both now experts you should offer a service to others making a kit.

[mudski]

Not everyone is as good as you two doing that sort of stuff, I think as you are both now experts you should offer a service to others making a kit.
haha. Far from expert mate. But I have contemplated it. The only thing wouldn't be doing is the door section. You have to modify your own. But the thought has crossed my mind as I do realise not everyone has the tools, and the patience to make this from scratch. Wasn't really hard to make, it just took a lot of time. Plus having the right tools does help a lot.

[TPC]

I cant do it myself as I have a airbag in the way, would prefer the extra storage.

[mudski]

I cant do it myself as I have a airbag in the way, would prefer the extra storage.
I was having a look at another member U and noticed the airbag deploys from the top. I though it deployed from where we make the door for the glove box. I wonder how much room is under there. As the air bag in the steering wheel is quite small so I can't seeing the passenger one being any bigger.

[TPC]

I was having a look at another member U and noticed the airbag deploys from the top. I though it deployed from where we make the door for the glove box. I wonder how much room is under there. As the air bag in the steering wheel is quite small so I can't seeing the passenger one being any bigger.
I don't think I would take the chance, too risky. Could imagine triggering the airbag while cutting the door out.

[arbee]

thanks for the where to get it, not sure if i could make one

[threedogs]

Bumped as will be starting tomorrow on this mod.
Have seen Mudski's in the flesh and very impressed

[mudski]

Good luck John. Just be patient and take your time. Remember, measure twice and cut once. When I have the time I will make version 2.0. Similar to cuppa's but with a hidden magnetic lock so it won't open until to unlock it.

[threedogs]

I have access to the vacuum former so will make a few inserts if possible.
I'll be picking your brain, that's for sure
I'll get my BFF on it as well he was head of sheetmetal at "Q"mart
now retired. So we'll make as large as possible

[boosh]

Thanks for the inspiration mudski! I've just ripped the front off mine.

I might put a few pics up when I start putting it together, as I've got a couple of ideas. One of which is making the door into more of a flat 'bench' on the inside, maybe even with cup holders...

We'll see how motivated I get though!

[threedogs]

Hey Boosh I need some motivation been dying to do this since Cuppa finished his.
I'd like to super impose a compass into the lid, or a proper clock

,http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281102280057?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

[boosh]

Yeh that's not a bad idea.
It would be fairly easy to do, there would be about a 25-30mm cavity to be used up.
I'll get some pics up tomorrow with some specific measurements you can have a look at!

[P4trol]

I haven't thought of a compass. I need an LED arrow (that I can change from the drivers seat : straight ahead, left, right) and the caption below that says: 'the track goes this way'. (which got me in trouble last night, stuck for an hour in a puddle.)

And Cuppa, I'm not sure how I missed the pics you put up in June, but I did. The finished product looks good.

[threedogs]

Ripper Boosh
@ Mudski where do you buy that hidden lock thingy
Definitely starting tomorrow. As I said I've seen Mudski's and its
a must do for any non passenger airbag Patrol. Such a wasted space
So got all the tools got all the info .Go TD

[boosh]

I done a little bit today but something else came up so I had to stop...
Anyway here's my idea for the hinge.
http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u412/grantc5/WP_20131228_11_42_36_Pro.jpg (http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/grantc5/media/WP_20131228_11_42_36_Pro.jpg.html)

[threedogs]

way too hot here to work outside hopefully tomorrow I'll strike a blow

[mudski]

Ripper Boosh
@ Mudski where do you buy that hidden lock thingy
Definitely starting tomorrow. As I said I've seen Mudski's and its
a must do for any non passenger airbag Patrol. Such a wasted space
So got all the tools got all the info .Go TD

Johnny, I seen the hidden lock on a kitchen door on a job site I went to. Although I haven't really looked, I reckon they could be had at Bunnings or somewhere similar.

Boosh, you will find the collar of the bush will be too tight on the lid I think. I remember trying something similar and it was too tight.

[Cuppa]

the collar of the bush will be too tight on the lid I think.

Yes, I thought the same, there is very little clearance between ‘lid’ & the opening it sits in.

[boosh]

Boosh, you will find the collar of the bush will be too tight on the lid I think. I remember trying something similar and it was too tight.

Yeh it was but I took a bit off the back of the lid to make it fit. It fits pretty nice after I made the adjustment.

Once I finish the job off I'll put the pics up showing how it works. Won't be till Wednesday now, far too busy!!

[threedogs]

Ok I've started to remove that dash pad , you'll need to pull the felt backing away to expose 6 screws, after you remove the glovebox itself
there is also an electrical box that you need to remove to access one of the screws RHS
. A minimax 1/4 drive set is ideal as is a stubbie rachett screwdriver. All out ready to cut.

Ok Mudski where you have a bracket my model had junction boxes on it.
Going to cut now, were they your final measurements.
@ cuppa I've taken a pic of your hole {lol} will use as a guide,
here goes

[threedogs]

Hole all cut no dramas just used a dremel syle tool with vibrating straight cutter.
Think I'll notch that piece of steel so hinges have some thing with meat to work off.
Will make up the box insert tomorrow. as big as possible, with USB power[Constant}
and possible a merit, and an LED red/white courtesy light, only as have one lying around

[Cuppa]

Good to know you have your own hole now TD. :) Which piece of steel are you planning to notch? the piece along the bottom of your hole? Are you planning to hinge the door along the bottom? If so I’m not sure how you would manage to keep your box hidden.

Now that you’ve broken your no cut/no drill rule just imagine what the new year might bring!

[threedogs]

Yeah no stopping be now. I noticed you need that steel plate thingy as it houses the lock bracket for the OE glovebox.
can't see how the hinges will work yet,, will see if any pics.
Your first pic on post #33 is where I'm at, You don't need all that material at the top but makes no difference as its only to stop lid.
The box itself will be easy as I can handball that to my mate, There are no pictures of what and where the hinges go.
EG are they piano or just small cabinet hinges.

Yeah need pics of the hinges and where you have them, can you see them with the door open??

[mudski]

Not sure how cuppa hinged his but I didnt use piano hinges at all. Mines like a pin that goes through the lip of the lid and into a drilled hole in the dash.

[Cuppa]

Similar to Mudski but simplified, I just used self tappers. Hole in door is large enough for door to pivot without turning the self tappers, but hole in dash holds self tappers tight. Post #60 shows hole location in dash, & self tappers in finished ‘door’. I’ve seen some done with hinges along the bottom & they don’t look good, cant make the glovebox hidden.
I found determining the position for the hinge holes the single biggest challenge of the whole job, but the outcome works well.

[threedogs]

Got it, might show my sheetie mate he may have an idea after all this way his job for 40 yrs,
But I like the self taper theory KIS, noticed you ground a bit off the bottom of the lid, I take it this helps it hinge up.

[Cuppa]

noticed you ground a bit off the bottom of the lid, I take it this helps it hinge up.

Yes, so did Mudski I think. I left the lid until last. The trimming off the bottom of the lid was to accommodate the thickness of the carpet so that the lid still sits in place & looks 'stock'. Without the trimming it would sit out a bit & be less 'hidden'. Fwiw my advice would be to leave the lid until last, that way you can work out precisely where it is to sit & thus where your pivot holes need to be. There is not a lot of material to play with & every millimetre makes a difference. This based on what I did of course, you might find better alternatives.

[threedogs]

Glad I caught you Been sitting here thinking about the self taper, I actually think you could fit a small nut and m3 screw, or similar.
Not sure how big a box I'll make as its mainly to house my mates wallet ,phone and smokes when we go away. I've spoken
to him and looks like we MIGHT fibreglass it. Trouble is all shops are shut till 6th of Jan

[macca]

This could be a new year mod, will look for a latch that magnetic like you guys are talking about then start on it.
A bloke in our 4WD clubs Dad is a sheety and is making him a box, so far he has 3 orders from our clubbies!
Thanks for the DIY all of you, should make the task a whole lot easier.

[Cuppa]

, will look for a latch that magnetic like you guys are talking about then start on it.


Bunnings is your friend, see Mudski's early posts.
I used the same 'push to open' one as him, but added a couple of small thin neodymium magnets (eBay) to the latch plate on the door, as I found the magnet not quite strong enough & the door sometimes opened on our corrugated road. It helped that I had mounted the latch so it was adjustable, allowed me to accommodate the extra thickness of the neodymiums without pushing the door out. Mudski may not have that problem as he mounted his latch plate on the door differently to me.

[Cuppa]

Glad I caught you Been sitting here thinking about the self taper, I actually think you could fit a small nut and m3 screw, or similar.


Yep, that'd work too, although I'm not sure that there would be any extra benefit, & getting in behind the dash to hold the nut might be a pain when fitting or removing the door. When I fitted the self tappers I was aware of the possibility of the hole enlarging over time (although I think this is unlikely given the amount of opening & shutting it will get), & considered that if this ever happened I would then change to a nut & bolt arrangement.

[Cuppa]

Good that more are doing this, makes all those air baggers jealous!:tease:

[threedogs]

Yeah thinking the same wear will be minimum, but knowing my mate he'll want to put a metal sleeve in it.lol Shouldn't laugh but he will
He's very fussy my mate Phil is, Better for me he is. Been looking at the hole and think a slightly spring loaded box is possible,
2 stage and secured to that bar,
Not a great deal of room but will be handy for sure no matter how big the pocket is.

Yeah more the merrier, I'm getting the air cut off grinder out to shape the cavity a bit better,

OK need suggestions on what to fit in the lid, 7" screen isn't going to work so its either an in dash compass and a clock.
open to any ideas

[mudski]

I'd keep the lid plain John. Unless your talking about when you open it...

[red patrol]

good job mate!!

[threedogs]

To those doing this to this stage is no problem, to those who have done this to keep the steel running along the bottom that supports OE glove box catch
I've drilled and riveted it from the bottom on each of the bottom corners. Now I have a square entrance I can make my box and spring load it slightly
so it will fit snug. Happy so far pretty confident about the hinge. Can't see any point making it any bigger as there is not that much room, As Mudski suggested I will be fitting a lip to the front.
pretty sure I'll fibreglass the insert.

[threedogs]

Ok mocked up a cardboard box, and my theory was right I should be able to fit it from the front and secure it via two screws markd in picture.
Not sure if it needs a lid , will see later on, .Getting there, small lip on the front it will slope down a bit as there is about 25mm to play with

[mudski]

How were the nerves just when you were to do your first cut? I had to take some meds and wash it down with a beer! Making the box out of cardboard first is what did also. Then atleast you get a good idea on how its going to turn out. Then when your happy, simply cut the timber sides using the cardboard sections as templates.
Just remember NOT to rush it. Build it like you play chess. Think about every move and what effect it will have on the outcome, and it will turn out good.

[threedogs]

I used a 5" grinder as yes was shetting myself , mainly if I over cut, but I under cut then cleaned up with
my B/D power file. Off to bunnings tomorrow for bits and pieces.. hopefully finished by the end of next week
I'm in no hurry

@ Mudski where do you get thay magic lock you talked of?? lol

[mudski]

I used a 5" grinder as yes was shetting myself , mainly if I over cut, but I under cut then cleaned up with
my B/D power file. Off to bunnings tomorrow for bits and pieces.. hopefully finished by the end of next week
I'm in no hurry

@ Mudski where do you get thay magic lock you talked of?? lol

Grinder! You butcher! :D Get a Dremel bud. Small and light, perfect for these jobs. This magic lock I think they can be had from Bunnings mate. TBH I havent really looked to find them but its the best l locking system around. No key and no lock can be seen.

[threedogs]

Not butchered came out exactly the same as yours and Cuppas.
I'll now need to bend that metal plate on the RHS out of the way.
Its my job using tools every day, Not happy with the magnetic locks
at Bunnings they come in different grip strengths eg 4kg up to 10kg and then some.
Will surf the net and see what I can find.
The big question would I do it again, probable not.

[threedogs]

No one told me how fast that glue gun glue goes off, ha ha anyway all in,
make sure you buy a push to open magnetic lock as mudski used, or you wont be able to open it.
Found some black speaker material so box is all covered, now to put the hinge[self tapper] and adjust the
door magnet. Yeah pretty happy so far, something to do really, but it'll come in handy I'm sure

[macca]

The big question would I do it again, probable not.

Your reasons TD
I ask as Im not sure if I want to go through the hassles, not convinced I need more storage

[threedogs]

Point is I already have a glove box I don't use, in hindsight will be handy for
my mate when we go away as he can throw his wallet ,phone Etc in there.
Just don't think its worth the hassle. IMO its ideal for Cuppa and Mrs Tea travelling.
bottom line it cost bugger all and pretty hard to stuff up, each to there own.

[Stropp]

got a pic mate ??

[mudski]

Your reasons TD
I ask as Im not sure if I want to go through the hassles, not convinced I need more storage
Its all about modding your ride macca. Not about hassles :)

[threedogs]

@ Mudski to adjust the push to open lock I take it you need to trim the top and sides of the lid.
I have a little adjustment on the lock but not much

[threedogs]

A tip for drilling hinge hole, look where Cuppa drilled his, take a pic and crop it.
pretty hard to stuff up the lid as it can only go in one spot really.
Its about 12mm up from the lip, drill them both the same and lid should sit near on spot on.
bit more to do but it gets damn hot sitting in a Patrol on a hot day,
@ Macca might be a good place to hide some valuables, no one would think to look there

[Cuppa]

A tip for drilling hinge hole, look where Cuppa drilled his, take a pic and crop it.
pretty hard to stuff up the lid as it can only go in one spot really.
Its about 12mm up from the lip, drill them both the same and lid should sit near on spot on.


Or read post #57 of this thread. Getting the holes in exactly the right spot is crucial if you want the glovebox to be ‘hidden’. I reckon it was the hardest part of the job, & you only get one shot at it.

[threedogs]

YOU are not wrong, I nailed it first time did a little dance of joy yeah only one chance

[macca]

Its all about modding your ride macca. Not about hassles :)

Yeah Yeah I know, its got more bits hanging off it that an echidna has quills, I said I wasn't going to do this to this 4B and what's happened???

I'm going to take up seeing a therapist as a new hobbie.

[threedogs]

That will cost you more, just do the hidden glove box

[mudski]

I'm going to take up seeing a therapist as a new hobbie.
As long as it comes with a happy ending...:trink13: Different therapist though....

[FNQGU]

TD, you got any pics to show us? The more of these being done nice and neat, the more confidence it gives that it can be done by us mere mortals.

[Stropp]

TD, you got any pics to show us? The more of these being done nice and neat, the more confidence it gives that it can be done by us mere mortals.

yeh come on TD i been waiting for the pics mate, i need confidence to attack mine too.

[threedogs]

I need to line the inside of the lid and put the lanyards in and its done,
looks the same as the others except its black

[FNQGU]

Pics, or it never happened….

[threedogs]

As all that have done it before me have said and I totally agree cutting out the facia
is the easy part, making the box up is a PITB as we all say the hinge hole is the pits

[FNQGU]

Your doing a good job of putting me off this one….:wink: I am not known for my finesse and patience.

[threedogs]

its not hard just fiddly do it over a period of two weeks.
Just remember to get "PUSH TO OPEN" catches, , they are from TV cabinet

[Cuppa]

Last post in January. Have you taken any pics yet TD?

[Robo]

Nice one.
Unfortunately I have air bag, but got me thinking of,
I recently pulled wagon side section interior skin off, and man is there some room hidden away just begging for similar to make use of the space.
A project one day me thinks.

[mudski]

Nice one.
Unfortunately I have air bag, but got me thinking of,
I recently pulled wagon side section interior skin off, and man is there some room hidden away just begging for similar to make use of the space.
A project one day me thinks.

Yeah mate.... I had a look at a friends GU with the air bag and I still think there is heaps of room there still. If your worried about setting the air bag off just disconnect it and remove it whilst glove box fitment.

[lucus30]

Hey mudski when i click on your pictures for a closer look I just get a blank imageshack page. Any chance you can take a look?
This is on my to do list but my UHF will end up screwed to the bottom and might put a fuse block behind it with a couple of USB sockets inside

[Cuppa]

This is on my to do list but my UHF will end up screwed to the bottom and might put a fuse block behind it with a couple of USB sockets inside

You should do it Lucas, it’s a very useful mod.

[mudski]

Hey mudski when i click on your pictures for a closer look I just get a blank imageshack page. Any chance you can take a look?
This is on my to do list but my UHF will end up screwed to the bottom and might put a fuse block behind it with a couple of USB sockets inside

Can anyone else confirm this? The pics come up when I look at them.... Might be your browser blocking the images?


You should do it Lucas, it’s a very useful mod.

Your not wrong....

[Cuppa]

I can see them, but have to download them to see them in a larger size.

[lucus30]

Yeah I plan to do it don't worry. I'll be using this thread to do it though as I'm not a carpenters anything

[mudski]

Yeah I plan to do it don't worry. I'll be using this thread to do it though as I'm not a carpenters anything

Trust me. Neither am I. Just plenty of planning and measure 100 times and cut once.

[Stropp]

there is a guy on facebook doing the a kit for these, they look pretty good and it is actually like a slide out out drawer with magnetic clips. i will see if i can find a link

[lucus30]

there is a guy on facebook doing the a kit for these, they look pretty good and it is actually like a slide out out drawer with magnetic clips. i will see if i can find a link

Yeah I saw that but he wants $250 for them

[Cuppa]

there is a guy on facebook doing the a kit for these, they look pretty good and it is actually like a slide out out drawer with magnetic clips. i will see if i can find a link

Would like to see that.

[the evil twin]

Would like to see that.

Don't you mean... Would see that to 'Like'

See what I did there, clever bastard aren't I...

[Cuppa]

Dribble comes to all eventually. :)

[Clunk]

Dribble comes to all eventually. :)

Time for the incontinence pantsb

[lucus30]

I can see them, but have to download them to see them in a larger size.

Yeah just realised your have to click the download to see them in a bigger size. Thanks Cuppa

[ocbgavin]

Ill post some pics of my 2nd glove box when finshed however i use alucobond and molded the shape required

[Family4x4]

Would an electro magnet work to hold this or are they noisy,to big,too much power or any other problems?

[threedogs]

Would an electro magnet work to hold this or are they noisy,to big,too much power or any other problems?

I have just received some 3kg and 6kg electro magnets which I plan to use via a momentary on button.
Magnet is abit smaller than a 10c piece and about 8mm thick, cant put up pics as my son stuffed my laptop
Plan is to glue them in the corners of the cut out and glue small pieces of steel in the lid corners

also have a 60kg magnet as well but its a tad too bulky not much but too big

[blocko05]

wow what a thread. That's a lot of work and some real good ideas regarding building and finishing. wish I had the skill to do a job like this.

[SKYLAB]

Cheers Mark
I've been thinking of doing this for a while now,,, and like you say,, after enough beers,ANYTHING is possible !
regards
Pedro

[mudski]

No worries Pedro. Just take your time at it and think about every meazure and cut you make. Making a template box out of cardboard was the best thing to do in the build.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Stropp]

i still have to get around to doing mine, one day it will happen :)

[threedogs]

i still have to get around to doing mine, one day it will happen :)

Slacker , what are we to do with you lol

[Stropp]

Slacker , what are we to do with you lol

That's what the ex used to Say 3D and look what I did with her :)

[Cuppa]

So how about some pics of your glovebox TD?

[FNQGU]

So how about some pics of your glovebox TD?

x2

Very keen to see it.

[mudski]

Thinking about pulling mine out and making up a few extra's. Just not sure on how to go about the door and hinges. That was real tricky. Maybe if I just make the box part and line them and the rest is up to the person.

[katwoman]

Thinking about pulling mine out and making up a few extra's. Just not sure on how to go about the door and hinges. That was real tricky. Maybe if I just make the box part and line them and the rest is up to the person.

Good money maker.. There was one on ebay recently for $250.

[mudski]

Good money maker.. There was one on ebay recently for $250.

Yeah but theres a bit of time involved to make one. Well for me anyway. Maybe a cabinet maker could whip one up in no time.

[mudski]

I just edited the write up so you don't have to click on the pics to enlarge them. If they are still too small let me know and I can make them bigger.

[threedogs]

Good money maker.. There was one on ebay recently for $250.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gu-Nissan-patrol-/252048479687?hash=item3aaf4295c7

this may be the one

[Cuppa]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gu-Nissan-patrol-/252048479687?hash=item3aaf4295c7 (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?campid=5336709507&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fitm%2FGu-Nissan-patrol-%2F252048479687%3Fhash%3Ditem3aaf4295c7)

this may be the one

Clever!
Obviously a repeatable design unlike my ‘one-off’. Credit to the maker. However I’m not sure the slide out design adds anything useful & I think there is less internal space than mine. Certainly a good alternative to the other commercial offering.

[mudski]

It no extra internal space at all. same space open or shut.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[mjr350]

If somone could make a fiberglass one, they'd have the market cornered. Simple case of glassing a blank and adding hinges and lock. Id buy one if reasonably priced. $250 is a bit steep in my opinion and would force me to DIY but he knows there's a market there.

[Cuppa]

If somone could make a fiberglass one, they'd have the market cornered. Simple case of glassing a blank and adding hinges and lock. Id buy one if reasonably priced. $250 is a bit steep in my opinion and would force me to DIY but he knows there's a market there.

You sound like 3dogs. :) If you DIY you’ll probably end up thinking that $250 is a reasonable price for ‘plug n play’. However the real cost of ‘plug n play’ is reduced capacity to the extent that it raises the question as to whether it’s worth bothering.

[mudski]

Nothing better than doing a DIY and the job finishes up just how you hoped. Better than paying top dollar for one in my opinion.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[phillica]

hi new to the post
Have 2002 Nissan patrol GU 4.8L
Have spent more on the car than bought it for
NEW tough dog springs & 50mm lift & shocks, 33" tyres, front loka, dual batteries, onboard air, front & rear lights, front & rear cameras + gps / radio all in one, swaybar & radius arm links etc
this weekend i put in a second glove box, using what i could find at home

cut the hole
62461
made a box out of cardboard, then covered in shade cloth, then fibreglass resin
62462
made the hinges took some time
covered the inside with spray on contact & an old pair of tracksuit pants
62463
didnt make a handle as it is a secret glove box
62464

[Rex13]

Looks like something to put on the todo list

[Kimbo63]

What an awesome thread well done Mudski and Cuppa the detail is second to none Cuppa your and inspiration to others with your attention to detail thanks again guys:bigthumbup:

[mudski]

Fixed the original posts as the pics somehow disappeared....

[i_am_swanny]

man thats awesome!

[shantillylais]

has anyone yet attempted and finished one of these on an airbag equipped vehicle?

[Mike02Ti]

shantillylais you cant as the airbag module is right behind where you need to cut and build the box.
Not only that even if it could be done i dont think the passenger would like a bunch of pens , some fuses , an old chocolate and box of tissues fired at their head at warp speed following a crash.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[UncleFrosty]

Given the current news, maybe a glovebox is a safer option there...

[shantillylais]

I have to agree UncleFrosty, I was just reading about the airbags on the other forum, and I tried to find out on the Nissan site as to how to register/check mine. but that's another story. I did have a look at mine today, and the facia is totally different than those used in the build thread, so perhaps it couldn't be done anyway.

[TrollinAround]

This is now on the list!

[Levante14]

Hey guys, so I have just attempted this and must say it looks the good it will all be one piece so I have to go under and up from where the glove box sits, would anyone like any templates before I carpet the thing?

[MudRunnerTD]

Hey guys, so I have just attempted this and must say it looks the good it will all be one piece so I have to go under and up from where the glove box sits, would anyone like any templates before I carpet the thing?

Post up some pics mate.

[Cremulator]

Hey guys, so I have just attempted this and must say it looks the good it will all be one piece so I have to go under and up from where the glove box sits, would anyone like any templates before I carpet the thing?I would be curious to see some templates. I plan to do this mod one day.

[Stropp]

Hey guys, so I have just attempted this and must say it looks the good it will all be one piece so I have to go under and up from where the glove box sits, would anyone like any templates before I carpet the thing?
Yes please

[Cuppa]

With this thread resurrected it has been interesting to re-read it. I can report that 9 years later my second glovebox remains in regular use just as it was built, & has never needed any attention or fixing. Reading about doing it again brought me out in a cold sweat though! :)

[Levante14]

Well, it's finished, a bit of tinkering and it's a well made box, have not done the door yet. The hinging system is daunting lol but I managed to get all the templates down. For those who are interested

[Levante14]

And here it is all carpeted and installed, didn't have black screws but I'll paint them lol

[Levante14]

I can fit a six pack in there, not advised unless your running air-conditioning though as it's against the vents for heater/ac

[Levante14]

Big cheers to Mudski and Cuppa, loved both your well thought out directions, I take it the screws are holding as a hinge system? Do you reckon a blind rivet would work?

[Cuppa]

I take it the screws are holding as a hinge system? Do you reckon a blind rivet would work?

Maybe, but I imagine when you pull the rivet tight to install it will likely be too tight. The self tappers work well & have never required adjustment since first installed.

Welcome to the NPSGBB exclusive club. :)

[Andicee]

Love this thread. Have read it several times and this is a project I'm keen to get into. I'll post pics for your amusement ;)

[mudski]

With this thread resurrected it has been interesting to re-read it. I can report that 9 years later my second glovebox remains in regular use just as it was built, & has never needed any attention or fixing. Reading about doing it again brought me out in a cold sweat though! :)

Yeah hard to believe I did this all that time ago. Glad I took the time to post it up, seems to have helped a few out which is what we always want to do. Mine is still functioning perfectly too by the way.

Everytime I go camping in mine and use the back of the car, I always think more can be done to utilise the two barn doors, for storage or something. The mind never stops ticking...

[Levante14]

Yeah hard to believe I did this all that time ago. Glad I took the time to post it up, seems to have helped a few out which is what we always want to do. Mine is still functioning perfectly too by the way.

Everytime I go camping in mine and use the back of the car, I always think more can be done to utilise the two barn doors, for storage or something. The mind never stops ticking...

Hey mate, try this out, I copied his idea and works a bloody treat

https://youtu.be/WvpDZph3sUg

[mudnut]

Hey mate, try this out, I copied his idea and works a bloody treat

https://youtu.be/WvpDZph3sUg That mod looks excellent, but...

It will significantly reduce the strength of the door. A previous owner of my Patrol cut a large hole in the inner sheetmetal of the rear D/S door to fit a speaker. The door has started to crack in a few places. On bumpy roads the door creeps open just enough to start an annoying squeak. I would suggest fabricating a system of brackets to brace the structure you have cut into.

[taslucas]

I'm guessing this is the tell tale sign that I have an airbag and can't do the mod [emoji26]87352

.......from under the great down under.

[mudski]

I'm guessing this is the tell tale sign that I have an airbag and can't do the mod [emoji26]

.......from under the great down under.

Unless you disconnect and remove the air bag, you cannot unfortunately.