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View Full Version : WANTED: standard Nissan 16" steel rims for GU



Cuppa
9th May 2013, 09:02 AM
I would like to replace my split rim/tubed rims with tubeless. I'll need 6 all up. Am watching eBay for some not too far away at a reasonable price, but if you have some gathering dust let me know. I'm in Gippsland, Vic.

Thanks
Cuppa

threedogs
9th May 2013, 09:06 AM
For some reason Patrol rims are expensive as anything, Are you after OE steel rims 16x8 .
As a set of mags may be cheaper but no good for your intended use,
Have you priced a set of sunnies.? If you know size and offset I'll make a few calls
and see what prices are available, thinking black King rims

Cuppa
9th May 2013, 09:31 AM
I'm not sure that the OE rims are 16x8? The is size I want are whatever the OE rims are. Have decided to stick with the 'cheesecutters' as I believe them to be better for carrying the load I have, & I'm not intending to play in the mud. This size was Telstra's choice, & my intended usage is similar. However I would like o go tubeless for easier puncture repair & the ability to lower the pressures a bit more that with tubed.

Cuppa

Bloodyaussie
9th May 2013, 09:48 AM
I am looking into some ROH rims for you but will probably only be able to get black??

Sorry for slackness in reply.... my brain is spinning around move out of my way............ yeah I know??

threedogs
9th May 2013, 10:30 AM
Think you'll find the DX came out with the 16x6 rims from nissan not Telstra.
You might find you have better load carrying capacity with 16x8, in LT conctruction.
Having said that you can get up to 10 ply in 16x6 but few options on pattern, IMO I'd be going
16x8 which everyman and his dog use with 285s ,100% to find a carcass if the pickings get slim
Split rims old school but open to debate ,plus dangerous if not paying attention

Cuppa
9th May 2013, 11:39 AM
PM sent BA.

TD, my point was that Telstra used the 16x6 split rims, & that their usage, predominantly on outback roads carrying heavy loads is similar to what I intend to do. I'm sure that if they had considered going to wider rims/tyres was beneficial they would have done so.

I was told last night that I will get better load carrying capacity in tyres to fit the 16x6 than for the 16x8. Eg. 7.50x16’s as well as the 235/85 I currently have. Whatever tyres I get will be an AT type for touring, most likely in a LT construction. I'm running almost 70psi in the rears at the moment. Remember I am close to 4 tonnes fully loaded.

Cuppa

taslucas
9th May 2013, 04:03 PM
I think TDs point was that if something happens in the outback and you need another tyre or rim then the 8" wide ones are more commonly used and therefore easier to get hold of in remote areas. I can also see your logic in sticking with the dimensions Telstra decided to use (but they did also choose split rims)Another thing though: you might not go out looking for mud but it may end up being right there between you and your way out.
In any case, going tubeless and getting rid of the split rims is a good idea.

FanTapstic!

threedogs
9th May 2013, 05:23 PM
As Lucas says All I was saying nearly everyone uses 16" rims so in the event you may need a carcass it'll be easy to pick one up. Having lived and worked in remote Northern territory,
we never threw away any 16" carcass, we patched and salvaged everything. Everything has/had a use. Gee miss that lifestyle.
Split rims are a heavier rolling mass as well, so more pressure on your brakes, 70psi seems way too high but happy to be proven wrong.
Only say that as ,as soon as you start travelling the pressure will go up even more, You're not allowing tyres to absorb any bumps
must be like driving a bobcat

Cuppa
9th May 2013, 06:19 PM
It's the pressure recommended by our local Tyrepower after they saw how much the sidewalls were ballooning out. Actually I'm running slightly less (68psi) which transformed he handling. 40psi in the front.
I hear what you are saying about availability in remote areas, trouble is I'm being given conflicting advice. Other folk (off forum) have said the same about the availability of 7.50 x16 as you have said about 16x8’s.
Have also been told that fuel economy will be better with the narrower tyres.

It'd be so much easier if everyone agreed!

Cuppa

Ps. Can anyone tell me what 16x8 LT tyres (ie with sufficient load carrying capacity) are available with an AT tread pattern?

macca
9th May 2013, 06:34 PM
Cuppa if you do change to a 16 x 8 be aware these utes like yours & mine with the stock rim (+13mm) & 265's have the rear tyre touch the chassis when articulating at extreme of that travel.
When I put 285's on I got hold of some ROH BlakTrak for $103.00 each at -10mm offset. They have never touched the chassis rail since.
Mine is the wide wheel model with OEM flares so you may need to head that way as well.
Bloody hard to work all of this out, good luck old mate.

Old Wal
9th May 2013, 07:06 PM
Cuppa I fitted 16x8 black dynamic rims to my ute a few months ago ( $ 550.00 for 5 including changing my tyres over onto new rims + balancing ) didn't know about offset issues - only running 265's. Will have to wait & see if they touch chassis at full flex. I have been using BFG T/A's with an " E " ( 10 ply rating ) for a number of years & have had a good run out of them. Rated @ 1550 kgs @ 80 PSI ( ! ) . Wear well , good in wet on road , pretty useless in mud . I just sold my std rims this week because apparently I have got too much stuff. PS I kept 1 as an additional spare.

threedogs
10th May 2013, 09:33 AM
This is about the 70 psi, I've never heard of ppl running these pressures. So having said that I also think You have the wrong vehicle for what you want to do, point being your already maxed out at 4T and have a GMV upgrade and you haven't left yet. There is a 4 psi rule for tyre pressures say put 50 psi in and go for a drive if pressures are within 4PSI you're on the money. Not 100% on the 4 psi rule but its a ball park thing, and a lot of ppl use it .
Its like what Bob said about towing EG my GU has Braked towing cap. of 2.5t so I buy a 2.5t caravan I'm maxed out before I start

nissannewby
10th May 2013, 10:28 AM
The load capacity can still be had on the wider tyres but weight distribution will be much better as it is obviously over a larger area. Running 70psi is acceptable in some Tyres but I think it to be a little unsafe, that's a lot of pressure especially with 4t of weight sitting on them. The wider Tyres will transform the ride again cuppa plus with your weight I would want to be going wider to aid with stability. If you stick to a 265 or 285 your fuel economy won't change much if any, this comes down to what I said earlier your current setup has a lot more kg to surface area contact on the road but are a lighter combo. The wider Tyres have less kg to contact area but are a slightly heavier combo. So your very much in the same boat either way you go. If this doesn't make sense pm me your number and I can explain.

Cuppa
10th May 2013, 12:10 PM
What you say makes sense NN, & from my reading on the 'net last night it seems that 265’s generally have the highest load rating of all sizes, so it seems to make sense to go to that size. I'm still not yet clear what width rims I'd need for these, or indeed what offset given what Macca has said about our leaf sprung models.

Also unsure if fitting 265’s would require me to fit flares on the front guards (no problem on the rear).Presumably this might depend upon what offset rims I got??

Yes TD, 68 psi does sound high, but the tyres are rated to 80 psi cold. I do reduce this a bit when I take out some of the weight.

Cuppa

Ps. Wish I'd taken a pic - the bloke I swapped seats with rocked up in his TDi ST ute, with custom flat tray, wearing wheels he had built himself (he builds & diplays monster trucks for a living). The tyres he had on it were huge - 36"x12". Like a mini monster truck in itself. Very smart, but possibly a tad over the top for an everyday car which won't see much off road work, but he has enjoyed building & running it, & that's what it's all about.

Winnie
10th May 2013, 12:23 PM
What you say makes sense NN, & from my reading on the 'net last night it seems that 265’s generally have the highest load rating of all sizes, so it seems to make sense to go to that size. I'm still not yet clear what width rims I'd need for these, or indeed what offset given what Macca has said about our leaf sprung models.

Also unsure if fitting 265’s would require me to fit flares on the front guards (no problem on the rear).Presumably this might depend upon what offset rims I got??

Yes TD, 68 psi does sound high, but the tyres are rated to 80 psi cold. I do reduce this a bit when I take out some of the weight.

Cuppa

Ps. Wish I'd taken a pic - the bloke I swapped seats with rocked up in his TDi ST ute, with custom flat tray, wearing wheels he had built himself (he builds & diplays monster trucks for a living). The tyres he had on it were huge - 36"x12". Like a mini monster truck in itself. Very smart, but possibly a tad over the top for an everyday car which won't see much off road work, but he has enjoyed building & running it, & that's what it's all about.

Is that the guy from hazelwood north who owns devils taxi and a few other monster trucks?

If you're happy and you know it tap a post!

nissannewby
10th May 2013, 12:29 PM
Yeah a Mate of runs 33's on 8" neg10 wheels on his dx leaf rear ute with no scrubbing issues. They are 12.5 wide

Cuppa
10th May 2013, 01:51 PM
Yep that's the bloke Winnie.

I posted a reply a short time ago showing some pics (then deleted the post) of my rear tyres, & when looking at them thought that perhaps they did look a bit over inflated, so I've reduced the pressure and taken some more pics.
Anyone care to comment on whether they look under/over or about right in regards to inflation pressure now?

29179

29180

Cuppa

macca
10th May 2013, 02:00 PM
This is what I was talking about with 31"

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh94/maccas01/Nissan/Mactrolresize8-1.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/user/maccas01/media/Nissan/Mactrolresize8-1.jpg.html)

Cuppa
10th May 2013, 02:45 PM
Ok, let's see if I've got this right, I don't know why, but I'm really finding it hard to get my head around all this tyre/rim size business.

If I have it correct ...... 265/75 have a diameter of 808mm which = 31.8" and are 30mm wider than the 235's I have at present. So when someone talks about 31" they mean the same as 265/75's?? Yes?

So if I want to run 265/75’s I need to get rims that are offset enough to give clearance from the chassis to avoid as shown in Macca's pic? Yes?

If I am correct, unfortunately this still leaves me confused. The clearance between my current tyres on Nissan split rims (I assume they are Nissan OE) is a good 70mm. Assuming that the split rims have the same offset as the tubeless Nissan OE rims, & that Macca's chassis rubbing issue was with tubeless Nissan OE rims, then it seems logical to me that fitting tyres that are just 30mm wider than those I have (and which have a smaller diameter - 808mm vs 815mm on the 235/85's) would only 'intrude' an additional 15mm into the 70mm clearance I have, thus leaving plenty of clearance.

The only explanations I can think of are
A) the split rims have a different offset to the tubeless rims.
B)Macca's rims were not OE Nissan
C) my split rims are not OE Nissan
D)Nissan OE rims come in varying offsets. (and widths)
E) I'm pretty thick & missing something obvious.

Probably what would simplify things for me would be if someone could just tell me exactly what size 16" rims (width & offset) I need to run 265/75's on my truck without having the tyres stick out past the wheel arches any more than necessary & without rubbing on the chassis. .......... PRETTY PLEASE!

And if anyone cares to comment on my inflation pics still, I'd appreciate it.

Ta,
Cuppa

nissannewby
10th May 2013, 02:46 PM
Yep that's the bloke Winnie.

I posted a reply a short time ago showing some pics (then deleted the post) of my rear tyres, & when looking at them thought that perhaps they did look a bit over inflated, so I've reduced the pressure and taken some more pics.
Anyone care to comment on whether they look under/over or about right in regards to inflation pressure now?

29179

29180

Cuppa

Looks acceptable cuppa. As 3D said take it for a run. If tyre pressures dont move much all but if they raise considerably you may need to raise them.

threedogs
10th May 2013, 02:46 PM
I was just over a 4x4 shop this morning asking what everyone is choosing for tyres.
He told me cooper st that looked like an AT tread in LT construction,
He added further these have very strong side walls, meaning they stand up straight with little bulge.
Its one of those potato ,potartoe things, but I would follow the lead of your fellow Podsters,
who have done all the hard work for you, if it works dont change it

nissannewby
10th May 2013, 02:51 PM
Ok, let's see if I've got this right, I don't know why, but I'm really finding it hard to get my head around all this tyre/rim size business.

If I have it correct ...... 265/75 have a diameter of 808mm which = 31.8" and are 30mm wider than the 235's I have at present. So when someone talks about 31" they mean the same as 265/75's?? Yes?YES

So if I want to run 265/75’s I need to get rims that are offset enough to give clearance from the chassis to avoid as shown in Macca's pic? Yes? Yes but you will need wider wheels to go to wider tyres anyway

If I am correct, unfortunately this still leaves me confused. The clearance between my current tyres on Nissan split rims (I assume they are Nissan OE) is a good 70mm. Assuming that the split rims have the same offset as the tubeless Nissan OE rims, & that Macca's chassis rubbing issue was with tubeless Nissan OE rims, then it seems logical to me that fitting tyres that are just 30mm wider than those I have (and which have a smaller diameter - 808mm vs 815mm on the 235/85's) would only 'intrude' an additional 15mm into the 70mm clearance I have, thus leaving plenty of clearance.

The only explanations I can think of are
A) the split rims have a different offset to the tubeless rims.
B)Macca's rims were not OE Nissan
C) my split rims are not OE Nissan
D)Nissan OE rims come in varying offsets. (and widths)
E) All of the above

Probably what would simplify things for me would be if someone could just tell me exactly what size 16" rims (width & offset) I need to run 265/75's on my truck without having the tyres stick out past the wheel arches any more than necessary & without rubbing on the chassis. .......... PRETTY PLEASE!

16x8, neg10-13 offset and some BFG 265/75 KM2's :D

And if anyone cares to comment on my inflation pics still, I'd appreciate it.

Ta,
Cuppa

Hopefully thats answers some for you.

threedogs
10th May 2013, 02:58 PM
Easy eh, and 16 x 8 rims will make your 265s stand up with a straighter side wall

Cuppa
10th May 2013, 04:13 PM
Thanks NN.

After all that I did what I should have done in the first place and 'read the instructions'.
Well almost.
I had a look at the tyre placard which was fitted as part of the GVM upgrade.

Lo and behold - recommended tyre size 265/75 LT on 16 x 8 rims.

29182

Note that the rim size says 16x8 OJJ.
What does the OJJ bit refer to? Is it something to do with offset?

My current rims have 16x5.5 OF stamped on them

I must admit I'm a bit gobsmacked at the recommended tyre pressure on the placard.
350kPa is only 50psi

The pic posted of my tyres after I'd let some air out shows the tyres with 60psi.

As Telstra were running Bridgestone Dueller 661’s (the kuhmo's on the rear axle were fitted by the car yard, still have 661's on the front + the 2 spares) I looked at Bridgestones & thought perhaps the D694 LT's or their successor D697 LT's might be the go. Doubt I'll go for muddies whichever brand I get. Whatever I end up with I think it's gonna be a pretty expensive exercise getting 6 rims plus tyres.

Cuppa

nissannewby
10th May 2013, 04:23 PM
Thanks NN.

I must admit I'm a bit gobsmacked at the recommended tyre pressure on the placard.
350kPa is only 50psi


Cuppa

In what way? If its less than you intended that's because of the better weight distribution. If its higher then these are kinda like safety factors

nissannewby
10th May 2013, 04:24 PM
I think the 0jj refers to rim construction.

nissannewby
10th May 2013, 04:45 PM
Just had a look. It does refer to construction. Refers to bead profile and design etc etc

GUtsy ute
10th May 2013, 05:17 PM
My Telstra ute with the factory wide wheel pack (genuine Nissan steel wheels 16x8)
rubbed on the chassis when flexing.

The leaf sprung ones all do it with the Nissan 16x8 wheels.

Cuppa
10th May 2013, 05:24 PM
In what way? If its less than you intended that's because of the better weight distribution. If its higher then these are kinda like safety factors

The former. Seems the advice I had been given off forum about how the narrower the tyre the greater it's load carrying capacity was a crock of poo. As a result I was surprised when I realised that wider tyres could actually have a greater load capacity, & clearly the better weight distribution does indeed allow for lower pressures to be used.

As far as types of construction of rims goes (thanks for that info) I'm guessing that might be rather more esoteric knowledge than I need to have?

Cuppa

Cuppa
10th May 2013, 05:26 PM
My Telstra ute with the factory wide wheel pack (genuine Nissan steel wheels 16x8)
rubbed on the chassis when flexing.

The leaf sprung ones all do it with the Nissan 16x8 wheels.

So do you (or anyone else) know what the factory 16x8 offset is?

Cuppa

macca
10th May 2013, 05:34 PM
Mate I put it there in post #10 they are +13 mine were the OEM stock rim with the oval cutouts in the rim. These are the HD ones for the leaf spring model that have the wide wheel kit. Jeez mate I hope that helps LOL

nissannewby
10th May 2013, 05:35 PM
Yeah it's just like an ISO thing they have to stamp it.

As for that. I'm pretty sure the steels are pos 10. The factory 16x8 alloys are around neg10. I think Macca posted the offset earlier.

Cuppa
10th May 2013, 06:15 PM
Sorry Macca, I missed that figure in your earlier post, possibly because I was struggling to get my head around which way positive & negative offsets sit. Have got it now thanks.

In the belief that if I didn't understand that there will be others like me, the diagram below should help explain the difference between positive & negative offset. Essentially negative offset 'pushes' the wheel outwards.

Cuppa

macca
11th May 2013, 07:17 AM
Cuppa did some deeper "research". the OEM are +10 the ROH are -13, sorry about having it the numbers the wrong way round, the rim centre line ended up being 23mm away from the chassis

threedogs
11th May 2013, 07:25 AM
not to confuse things more but most IFS rims widen in and live, axle most widen out giving a deep dished look

Cuppa
11th May 2013, 09:37 AM
not to confuse things more but most IFS rims widen in and live, axle most widen out giving a deep dished look

Well I don't know about you confusing things TD, but I don't have a clue what IFS rims are, nor do I understand what you mean when you say 'live' in this context???

However the important thing is that I now know I want 16 x 8 neg 10 to 13 offset.
This appears to limit my choice to just ROH. (Based on what others have fitted, the ROH web site doesn't state their available offsets - Grrr).

Other manufacturers, Mullins (-28, +0, +25), Speedy (-5 and -28), Dynamic (offsets not stated) King (offsets not stated)

The Mullins mine spec have a load rating of 1500kg, Speedy 1225kgs, whereas ROH only 1140kg (unless they have a different mine spec wheel, it's not clear from their web site if all their steel wheels are 'mine spec' & 1140kg - anyone know?).
Pro Comp has -12 offset but load limit is only 907kg.

I'd prefer the greater load limit of the Mullins mine spec, but neg 28 seems a bit extreme?

Any other steel wheel manufacturers to check out?

I have emailed the above manufacturers to see what they can come up with but am not holding my breath. 1140kg load rating may be the best I can get, but in my situation may be marginal. I'd prefer a bit higher if I could get it.
Cuppa

macca
11th May 2013, 10:58 AM
OEM J 16X8 JJ DOT TOPY 414 05 A 1Y402 NISSAN (+10mm offset), Dont know what all that means its all on the rim from memory.
Aftermarket ROH 16X8 1200KG (-13mm offset), The ROH specs I got from them when I was trying to get engineered.

Bloodyaussie
11th May 2013, 01:47 PM
-13 is perfect...... !!!!!

threedogs
11th May 2013, 02:23 PM
If all else fails go to Eastern Wheel Works and get a set made, From Memory they use 8mm for the hub of the steel rims.
Very strong indeed if not the strongest available, but Up there price wise, They'll make you rims any offset you want.
They come un coated but are one of the toughest rims going around, FYI look nothing like sunnies, they look tough

DX grunt
11th May 2013, 05:27 PM
I don't know if this pic will help, but this is what's stamped on my rims that I recently acquired. I haven't got a clue what it means. lol

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/160_zpsb865f03f.jpg (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/DXgrunt/media/160_zpsb865f03f.jpg.html)

Rossco

nissannewby
15th May 2013, 10:32 PM
The 8 will be the rim width and the 16 obvioulsy the diameter. The JJX has to do with rime construction, bead profiles of the rim, weight limits etc.

Alitis007
15th May 2013, 10:44 PM
8JJ (8") x (by) 16 fairly simple, also somewhere it will say ET - / + ?? For the offset.

nissannewby
15th May 2013, 10:53 PM
There is a big article on wheels. Google Euro wheel standards and it goes into it.

Alitis007
15th May 2013, 11:15 PM
Matty all i could find was that the "JJ" stands for the shape of the 2 surfaces where the bead of the tyre seats/ faces the rim.

nissannewby
15th May 2013, 11:30 PM
Yeah. There is an article around for a euro standard ill see if I can find it again. Have a look at this one anyway georgie. http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html