recovery points

[TheFlyingBadger]

Fellas

With all this talk about rated recovery points i'm confused (it doesn't take much)...

My (still) shiny new patrol (GU7) has the big hook-y thing on the underside at the front - is this a rated recovery point?

Also, it has the ubiquitous hoop at the back (above the towbar), is this a recovery point?

Cheers

Jon

[Bigrig]

Yep to both Jon. The hook under the front (I assume still RHS on the 07 GU) is bolted straight into the chassis, as is the large U bolt on the rear under the barn doors. There are small loop tie down points also that are used for stabilising the car in transport (on a truck/boat etc) and should ABSOLUTELY NEVER be used as recovery points.

All the best.

[TheFlyingBadger]

I did a occupational 4wd course a few weeks ago, and the guys there recommended that i swap the hook on the front from the drivers side to the passenger side. The theory there was that it stood a better chance of keeping any projectiles out of the drivers face that way. I've not unbolted it yet though

[Bigrig]

I've heard of that also, but know no-one who has actually done it though - might be a few on the forum that can shed more light on it. It makes perfect sense to do so, but without going and crawling under the car, not sure if the inside of the chassis rail is plated to accomodate the bolts (on the LHS), not sure if the bolt holes are even there, etc, etc so it may involve some small modification, and would certainly need to be engineer approved (not a back yard job).

[YNOT]

The best thing to do on the front is fit proper recovery points to both sides and use an equalizer strap so both chassis rails share the load. Front recovery points are available from Superior engineering, BBM motor sports, Macquarie 4X4 etc.

The loop in the middle of the rear bumper should never be used for snatching or heavy winching. Have a close look at the factory loop, they are very weak. BBM motor sports make a heavy duty recovery point that mounts in the same location. Personally I prefer to use a hitch receiver in the hayman reece towbar.

Which ever recovery point you use, regardless if you are winching or snatching, ALWAYS use a damper blanket over the cable or strap.

Tony

[Bigrig]

Thanks Tony - I forgot about the no snatchy snatchy off the back, but have to admit, I have winched off it though?? There you go - goes to show we learn something new all the time!! Thanks

[TheFlyingBadger]

Have a close look at the factory loop, they are very weak.

that was the main reason behind my asking the question, my first thought was that it looked very weak.

[YNOT]

The factory front recovery point is very strong, but I have heard several reports of it straightening out in extreme cases. I have not heard any reports of it actually detaching from the vehicle like towballs do.

Tony

[TheFlyingBadger]

BBM motor sports make a heavy duty recovery point that mounts in the same location.



I went to the BBM site, but it says that recovery loop is for the GQ. is the bolt spacing the same on the GU?

[YNOT]

As far as I know yes, I'll check later.

Tony

[DX grunt]

Jon

Go to ARB and ask them for proper recovery point. I got the attached ones for about $50 from the shop in Mandurah. Do not use that hook as already stated. It's basically a shipping tie down point.

There's a left and right hand one. Mine goes straight up and down and curves at the top. There are different types, so get the salesman to physically go to your truck and have a look. Being a brand newie, I'm not sure if the one I use will suit yours.

Take care out there.

Ross

[Woof]

Fellas

With all this talk about rated recovery points i'm confused (it doesn't take much)...

My (still) shiny new patrol (GU7) has the big hook-y thing on the underside at the front - is this a rated recovery point?

Also, it has the ubiquitous hoop at the back (above the towbar), is this a recovery point?

Cheers

Jon

Hey Jon, have a look at The Evil Twins GU mate, when I had it I replaced the factory one and also added one to the other side as Tony said then you use a equalizer strap or sometimes called a bridle.
Never use that "U" shaped hook thingy on the back for any recovery, towing, winching etc........it is a tie down point only.
Just remembered that I have some photos of them.
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm190/Uriah57/TowHooks001.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm190/Uriah57/TowHooks003.jpg

[DX grunt]

Good stuff Rossco. I agree they're probably the preferred option over the hook but as Tony says I've only ever heard of the hooks straightening in extreme cases, not detaching. But yours certainly are the real deal and I should get off my backside and get a pair for the front myself.

I also have never used the rear loop to winch or snatch from and wouldn't. I've got one of those hitch hooks that Tony posed up in another thread.

Cheers.

Sorry Plassy, but the hook is a risk, and I'm not a risk taker. Safety first.

[Woof]

Just got 2 for the front of the Q, will be putting them on next weekend.

[TheFlyingBadger]

Just got 2 for the front of the Q, will be putting them on next weekend.

i thought that the propaganda claimed that a "mighty GQ" never needed recovery? :D

[Bigrig]

i thought that the propaganda claimed that a "mighty GQ" never needed recovery? :D

You still have something to pull other people out with though mate!!! lolol ...

[DX grunt]

Good stuff Rossco. I agree they're probably the preferred option over the hook but as Tony says I've only ever heard of the hooks straightening in extreme cases, not detaching. But yours certainly are the real deal and I should get off my backside and get a pair for the front myself.

I also have never used the rear loop to winch or snatch from and wouldn't. I've got one of those hitch hooks that Tony posed up in another thread.

Cheers.

No worries Jon.

Please don't be offended, but you ain't hookin' up to me with that hook.

I believe you'll make the right decision.

I'm having withdrawls at not being recovered. Wayne, where are you ? lolololol

[DX grunt]

i thought that the propaganda claimed that a "mighty GQ" never needed recovery? :D

Do you believe that crap? lolol. My snatch strap has got 'The dogman' embossed on it. GQ or GU , he's mine. lololol

[DX grunt]

Sorry Jon.

I've done it again.......:hijacked::hijacked::hijacked:

[Woof]

Do you believe that crap? lolol. My snatch strap has got 'The dogman' embossed on it. GQ or GU , he's mine. lololol

Oh Ross mate, that snatch strap of yours with my name on it, will be rotted away well before it is ever required to be used on The Doggymobile.:harhar:

[DX grunt]

Oh Ross mate, that snatch strap of yours with my name on it, will be rotted away well before it is ever required to be used on The Doggymobile.:harhar:

You wish !!!!! lololololololol

[TheFlyingBadger]

Sorry Jon.

I've done it again.......:hijacked::hijacked::hijacked:

i wouldn't worry about it ross, i hijack with the best of 'em

[DX grunt]

i wouldn't worry about it ross, i hijack with the best of 'em

I love a fast learner. lolol

[Woof]

Yeah Jon, even some of the Moderators here do it sometimes.........................and the Forum Admin as well:offtopic:

[AB]

Yeah Jon, even some of the Moderators here do it sometimes.........................and the Forum Admin as well:offtopic:

Me???

Never....lol

[patch697]

Thanks Doggy paint us out to be the bad guys.....lololol

[the ferret]

Just unbolt the rear loop and have a good look at how it's made, check out the "but weld" :jawdrop: and don't bother bolting it back on.
Use the tow hitch receiver and the recovery tongue,.............and stay alive.

[TheFlyingBadger]

the plates and the receiver tongue are now on my (seemingly never-ending) list of stuff that i need to buy.

along with....
window tint
snorkel
UHF antenna
DVD Players for the Kids


and that's all in the $300-ish bracket. Then there's drawers, polyairs, tracklander, 2" lift, etc. etc. on there

:(

I need a pay rise.

[patch697]

the plates and the receiver tongue are now on my (seemingly never-ending) list of stuff that i need to buy.

along with....
window tint
snorkel
UHF antenna
DVD Players for the Kids


and that's all in the $300-ish bracket. Then there's drawers, polyairs, tracklander, 2" lift, etc. etc. on there

:(

I need a pay rise.

LOLOLOL................ Welcome to 4x4's.

[the ferret]

:clapping:Yeah, it seems never ending, but get the important bits first, the rest will come, a bit at a time when ya can spare the cash.

[Clunk]

:clapping:Yeah, it seems never ending, but get the important bits first, the rest will come, a bit at a time when ya can spare the cash.

OK, being very new to all this........ What would you class as being the important bits for a stock 4.2EFi GQ?

[YNOT]

Safety items and maintenance (brakes, steering etc) first, then protection items and things that are likely to save you money in repairs (snorkel, bar work etc). After that it's how ever you want to prioritize it. If your tyres are worn now and you want to fit bigger tyres then suspension lift (to accommodate the bigger tyres) will have to move up the list.
That's how I would do it.

Tony

[Clunk]

Safety items and maintenance (brakes, steering etc) first, then protection items and things that are likely to save you money in repairs (snorkel, bar work etc). After that it's how ever you want to prioritize it. If your tyres are worn now and you want to fit bigger tyres then suspension lift (to accommodate the bigger tyres) will have to move up the list.
That's how I would do it.

Tony

Cheers Tony, body and mechanics of the car are pretty sound previous 2 owners appear to have taken good care of it, with receipts going back to 1995, no log book though unfortunately. Already has the barwork, although I'm looking at chopping off the bottom part of the bullbar as it's impeding on ascent and departure angles. So I'm gathering, decent recovery points should be added first. Also looking at getting a 2in suspension lift done.

[Woof]

Clunk, I would be getting rated recovery points, rated shackles and at least a 8,000lb snatch strap before anything else.

[Clunk]

Clunk, I would be getting rated recovery points, rated shackles and at least a 8,000lb snatch strap before anything else.
thanks mate, don't worry they're first on the list of purchases.

[Bigrig]

QUESTION - the U Hook at the back of the patrol (above the towball) - what is it for?? Seems unanimous it's not for any form of recovery whatsoever, but it's one heavy duty hook to be there for good looks ... I'm with you after hearing all this and intend to get rated recovery points both sides on the back, and another hook on the front, but am confused as to what that U hook is even doing there now (or did I miss the explanation for this somewhere?).

Thanks a million ..

[YNOT]

I don't know why Nissan put it there. It's not a tie down point, they're on the chassis. I can only guess they put it there for flat towing dead Toyota's from shopping centres back to Toyota dealers for repairs!

Tony

[my third 256]

pintal hooks fit there

[Clunk]

I might have to get those recovery points done sooner than I thought. The old man wants to come in his 2003 Pajero Excced next time I go out for a run. Ouch!!!!!

[Clunk]

pintal hooks fit there

Please excuse my naivety but what ar pintal hooks?

[Bigrig]

I don't know why Nissan put it there. It's not a tie down point, they're on the chassis. I can only guess they put it there for flat towing dead Toyota's from shopping centres back to Toyota dealers for repairs!

Tony

That's it then!!! lol

[patch697]

I don't know why Nissan put it there. It's not a tie down point, they're on the chassis. I can only guess they put it there for flat towing dead Toyota's from shopping centres back to Toyota dealers for repairs!

Tony

Yep that would be my guess too..................lololololol

[YNOT]

Please excuse my naivety but what ar pintal hooks?

These are pintle hooks.

Tony

[Clunk]

Thanks Tony, I'm not too mechanically minded, so have a lot to learn

[Woof]

Thanks Tony, I'm not too mechanically minded, so have a lot to learn

Your not the only one Clunk, I've never heard of them.
Tony, why would anyone want one of those placed up so high???

[YNOT]

You probably wouldn't put one up that high by choice, but if the mounting holes are already there then why not (YNOT!) make use of them and get rid of the useless loop that the factory put there. Would make it very easy to attach straps.

Tony

[Woof]

You probably wouldn't put one up that high by choice, but if the mounting holes are already there then why not (YNOT!) make use of them and get rid of the useless loop that the factory put there. Would make it very easy to attach straps.

Tony

Yeah YNOThttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/

[Finly Owner]

Ok here what a complete novice thinks:

The U piece is for attaching your safety chains from camper trailer etc up high out of the way? Pintle hooks are designed for ring feed draw bars and also positive lock down over european couplings.

Tony I still wouldn't snatch from these as they are only good for constant weight, not snatch weight.

As I said I am only noivice.

[JimboGQ]

I've never understood the advantages of pintle hitches over ball hitches. Why does the gov't (in particular) use them so much? Can anybody enlighten me to their benefits? Don't they rattle? Or how exactly do they work?

Pintle hitches work on the same principle as trigg hitches, they have a greater range of movement compared to ball hitches (the pintle spins 360 degrees).

[TheFlyingBadger]

Pintle hitches work on the same principle as trigg hitches, they have a greater range of movement compared to ball hitches (the pintle spins 360 degrees).

but could you seriously tow from a pintle hook attached with 4 pissy little bolts like it would be on the patrol?

[tkn]

Yes, you know with rated recovery points that they will withstand the force you intend to apply to them. Emphasis here on the "intend". Lots badly underestimate the amount of force required to "rescue" a vehicle, especially one that is down to the axles in whatever. Whether you are stuck in sand or mud or ruts, a bit of road building can significantly lessen the recovery forces e.g. by maybe 1/2. One recovery point at the rear or the front of the Patrol might be enough to recover the vehicle, but if it is badly stuck then applying all the recovery force at the one point on a chassis rail risks permanent distortion to the chassis. Spreading the load over two recovery points (front or rear) reduces the force transferred to each during a recovery, especially if used with a bridle chain - the objective is to have each recovery point subject to 1/2 of the force required for recovery. So if you have two recovery points (hooks or plates) rated at say 4 Tonnes then you can safely apply 7 Tonnes to recover the vehicle - a bridle chain will help to evenly distribute that force i.e. 3.5 Tonne to each chassis rail.
It looks like the bolts or screws in the pixs of the recovery plates are high tensile and NOT mild steel (hardware store variety). The safety of the recovery plate installation depends upon fasteners that will not fail and their secure (read "fully tightened", with a tension wrench if need be) fastening to the chassis rails. The price of some high tensile fasteners is a bit of a horror story, but don't compromise. Like with recovery plates or hooks go for higher than necessary rating, rather than under rating.
Not in favour of tow bars, balls, hitches - pintle or otherwise, as recovery points. That is not their intended purpose. Put simply - they are not designed for that use.

[YNOT]

I agree with most of what you said above.
I would not recommend the use of a bridle chain, I believe using a properly rated bridle strap would be safer as it removes a heavy object from the recovery. I realize snatch blocks and shackles are heavy but they have not lighter alternative.

That's just my opinion, others may disagree.

Tony

[NIZZBITS]

I've heard of that also, but know no-one who has actually done it though - might be a few on the forum that can shed more light on it. It makes perfect sense to do so, but without going and crawling under the car, not sure if the inside of the chassis rail is plated to accomodate the bolts (on the LHS), not sure if the bolt holes are even there, etc, etc so it may involve some small modification, and would certainly need to be engineer approved (not a back yard job).

The later models (after 02) that have the hook on one side and the bolt go vertically up are swappable from side to side. Better idea though is to whack another one on the other side and use an equalising strap on both to share the load.

[tkn]

I hear you YNOT, a bridle strap would be preferred. The question is how to find a rated strap.
A bridle chain is easy – go to a lifting supplier and specify the length and rating of the chain you want, grab a couple of rated ends and you have a rated bridle chain.
Maybe someone knows a supplier of rated customised straps - or one suitable for use as a bridle.
The best I can think of is a fabric lifting sling – it would have to be doubled up, but might serve the purpose of a relatively light rated bridle thing.

[GUte]

There are plenty of bridle straps readily avail, tree trunk protectors can be used also.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/4WD-EQUALISER-STRAP-OFF-ROAD-BRIDLE-RECOVERY-STRAP-/300472070471?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f587f147

So the hook on the drivers side of my GU should not be used as a recovery point?

[DX grunt]

So the hook on the drivers side of my GU should not be used as a recovery point?

Definitely not. My understanding is that they were shipping tiie down points during transportation. Many people use them as recovery points, but I don't think they're safe enough and I won't be hooking up either as the recoverer or recoveree to anybody.

I'm not DIY savvy and pay to get everything done.

Read article #11 (page 2) on this thread. I bought a pair (L&R) from ARB, for about $50 from memory. The guys actually took the 'hook' off and replaced it with the proper recovery points.

You'll need to get the salesperson to get under your truck and have a look because there are different types. Mine curves at the top.

I'll get under my truck shortly and post another pic or two.

Take care out there.

Ross

[DX grunt]

Here's what I have on DX grunt for front recovery points .... 2005 GU DX ute. I have a left and right hand side. I think they're sold in pairs only.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/Mods-CBrecoverypointsmpcradle002.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/DXgruntfrontrecoverypoints001.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/DXgruntfrontrecoverypoints002.jpg

[Dhuck]

As NIZZBITS said use an equalizer strap. Readily available from any good 4x4 outlet. Extreme Limits have them from $38.50.

[the evil twin]

OK... just to keep the keyboard war going... Rated means that a device has been engineered and then tested (usually destructive) and rated to a specific Safe Working Load.

EG a 4.2 tonne rated shackle, an 8,000 lb rated sling or strap.

Sooo if the aftermarket Recovery Points from ARB, TJM, et al are genuinely "Rated" what is the Safe Working Load?

I suggest (slightly tongue in cheek) that the vast majority of recovery points flogged by Shops are no more rated than the Nissan points. NOTE, that I am not arguing which is stronger I am arguing that the vast majority of aftermarket poinst are not truly rated either and it is just a generic term used for Sales...

This actually gets on my goat a bit possibly because as an SES trainer I stress to people that lives depend on ensuring you budget your gear for the correct loads and a statement of "that is OK to use because it is rated" usually gets "Cool, rated to what load?" response from me.

If you can't tell me the answer to that question then the piece of kit is useless, well not useless exactly, but is being used with equal ignorance to it's safe working load as any other piece.

Rant over...

[tkn]

Someone may correct if I am wrong, but “ratings” are usually related to some sort of Standard e.g. Australian, British, American.
The Standard sets out “boundary parameter” such as intended use and the means by which a product is to be installed and/or operated.
A testing authority, such as a NATA testing operator, will test a product in regard to its compliance with a Standard (in all respects).

In the absence of a Standard, a Standard might be adopted as being relevant and applicable to the testing (and “rating”) of a product and the report that issues from the testing authority will spell out in detail what aspects of the Standard were adopted as relevant to the testing.

Testing to “destruction” is not essential, but a manufacturer having incurred significant expense in arranging the test will usually ask that its product is tested to destruction for (a) R&D purposes and/or (b) “bragging rights”.
The important bit is that a test by a NATA testing authority report is generally more reliable than a set of manufacturers/importers claims floated in the ether.
But keep in mind that testing authorities only test what they are asked to and paid to test. It is not their job to create “boundary parameters” or any standards.

A difficulty with recover items – e.g. plates, hooks, straps, etc. – is that there is a wide variety of directions in which force is and may be applied to those items.
For example, lifting chains and hooks are tested in a straight line pull – chains intended for use as slings are tested differently.

So it is that in the absence of anything better, “ratings” or pseudo ratings are created by drawing a line between equipment used for lifting and the same equipment used for “pulling” i.e. recovery uses.
Although strictly speaking the “pulling” use is not the same as a “lifting” use, many would probably agree that “pulling” is a lesser use.
Accordingly, many would accept a NATA tested “lifting” product as generally suitable for “pulling” uses.

Without a written report by an independent testing authority, no one can truly say whether or not a product will perform the way and to a standard for which it may have been designed.

That’s it for the time being.

[the evil twin]

Good post TKN... Zactly, what I'm talking about. I was a NATA signatory in a Cal and Testing Lab in the 90"s

A bit of steel plate with a pair of bolts may as well be MA15+ rated and only used after 8:30 at night.

Rated equipment has a WWL (or SWL old school) which is then identified on the equipment or is manufactured against a minimum Standard and rated accordingly.

The "Nissan Hook" and the "XYZ plate" are equally unrated IMHO. Sure one "might" be stronger than the other but as too which one and what load you can apply, who the Hell knows... "Rated" Pfffft, yeah, right... until a manufacturer publishes, attaches or stamps a WWL rating on the gear so you can sue his rrrse if it fails, Rated it is not.

[TheFlyingBadger]

Here's what I have on DX grunt for front recovery points .... 2005 GU DX ute. I have a left and right hand side. I think they're sold in pairs only.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/Mods-CBrecoverypointsmpcradle002.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/DXgruntfrontrecoverypoints001.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/DXgruntfrontrecoverypoints002.jpg

Just went to ARB (osbourne park) and they claimed they don't sell them as they are not allowed to fit them without the being properly engineered. I'll nip up to perth4x4 to see if ash has any in yet (he didnt a couple of weeks ago)

[DX grunt]

I got mine in Mandurah. Ask Wayne.

Ross

[TheFlyingBadger]

I got mine in Mandurah. Ask Wayne.

Ross

Cheers matey

[Silver]

have a look at page GI 21 of the GQ (Y60) Nissan Factory Manual available on this site. The factory hooks, except for the pintle at the rear, are 'only for emergency' - dunno for sure whether that is for emergency tow truck towing, or for emergency out of mud etc. the rear pintle is stated not to be for towing another vehicle etc, but 'for emergency, i.e. when getting the vehicle out of the mud' -which one might think would carry across to the 'emergency' use of the hooks located elsewhere....... or not

Of course, those who remember the TV ads when the GQ replaced the mighty MQ, may recall that a station wagon appeared in a starring role towing a broken down ferry across a river, using of course that rear mounted point above the back step. I seem to recall there may have been a tojo on the ferry :-)

I'm pleased I had a look, because it seems I am to lift the front of my wagon on the trolley jack under the centre of the diff, as opposed to under the pumpkin - so that will make it quicker. However, old mate over the road with his ute will still have to jack up each side apparently........ see page GI - 17.

Speaking of jacks, as my GQ has factory 15" wheels, the factory jack does not [always] fit under the diff when a tyre is completely flat...... I have a tojo jack that is a bit more squat that fits nicely under the diff - must see if it will fit into the spot in the back if not may hunt around for a squat hydraulic jack [late update, the factory jack that came with my Mav has about 30 mm clearance under the diff when the tyre is flat, however I have had issues with the mate's GQ - tyre in the dirt, jack on the tar....]

[benzo]

does anyone know how strong the black hoop is on the back of a y60???

[nowoolies]

does anyone know how strong the black hoop is on the back of a y60???

tie down point only DO NOT use this for anything in recovery

[benzo]

are they hooks or holes cant see

[Silver]

I transplanted this from DIY as it seems to fit better here

G'day,

Some questions below, and also a link to an interesting Kiwi site.

Thanks to all who have contributed here on this topic - fascinating.

I've been thinking about options for a second recovery point on the front of the Mav for a while now. It has 10R15 all terrain tyres, and rear lsd only, so will fail to proceed rather than dig humungous holes I think. At one stage I had Pirelli Dakkars on an MQ - they didn't dig holes and failed to proceed on wet grass, but were great in sand.

Anyhooo....

I have an 8000 kg breaking strain snatch strap, and an 8000kg bridle that I think is 2.5m long. thus the enclosed angle of the bridle will be a bit less than 45 degrees. with the benefit of hindsight, I could have got a longer bridle.

This Kiwi site has some interesting test results and thoughts, albeit a few years old now:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewto...051e0d27cc4221 Note they like hooks etc. that straighten rather than break.

I have decided to fit an Outer Limits plate to the inside of the LHS dumb iron that is, the chassis behind the bull/bumper bar (alloy 'factory' bar in my case). I know to use grade 8.8 metric bolts - which are apparently similar to grade 5 in old scale. Strong but not too brittle

I was thinking of fitting a plate inside the chassis to spread the load. (there are no captive nuts on this side) I mentioned this to boilermaker mate who is keen to weld the nuts to the plate. I'll speak to the bolt shop about this as it can't help the temper of the nut, but I don't know if this is significant. It will make it easier to fit, but I don't plan on taking it off again :-)

Any views on the value of a plate over washers? Any views from experts on effect of welding the nuts?

I was not going to fit a hook to the spot on the Outer Limits plate, however if the mighty Mav is to be snatched, the snatcher has to be happy, and may insist on a hook. With that in mind I'll probably get a rated hook from a reputable outlet, and fit that to the Outer Limits plate

There are no signs of damage to the factory hook. The vehicle to date has been used to tow things, as far as I can tell, rather than off roading - and certainly I haven't belted or used it. Given I am going to use a bridle/equaliser, I am thinking of leaving the factory hook in place - would welcome your views.

Thanks in anticipation

MadK1w1 posted:

Silver I made my own plates from 12mm plate they bolt to the side of chassis rail where the bullbar bolts go and have both a hook bolted to them and a hole for a shacle to fit.
I discussed with the Boily at work, lifting lugs require the radius of hole as the minimum "meat" from hole to edge, according to him and they lift 5plus tonne on this principle, no problem with this in my world.
I am yet to see a rated SWL stamped on any recovery point supplied for a 4wd, could be wrong there, comes down to users if it looks dodgy don't use it! I'll grab some pics tomorrow if interested, still have one not fitted due to general mods going on.

[Silver]

found some of those two bolt hooks with a 4500kg W.L.L. marked on the packaging, so bought a couple to go onto my nice new recovery plates.

Nice to have a W.L.L. rather than some other ambiguous statement that may or may not mean the same thing!

[timbar]

found some of those two bolt hooks with a 4500kg W.L.L. marked on the packaging, so bought a couple to go onto my nice new recovery plates.

Nice to have a W.L.L. rather than some other ambiguous statement that may or may not mean the same thing!

Good Stuff

[YNOT]

found some of those two bolt hooks with a 4500kg W.L.L. marked on the packaging, so bought a couple to go onto my nice new recovery plates.

Nice to have a W.L.L. rather than some other ambiguous statement that may or may not mean the same thing!

Where did you find the hooks?

Tony

[Patrolute4x4]

Thanx that post was a big help

[Silver]

Where did you find the hooks?

Tony
I found them at Autobarn Virginia while chasing up plug leads and plugs, ok ok they were at the other end of the shop :-)

they are T-Max brand, the hook is marked max load 10000lbs, the packaging WLL 4,500kg/10,000 lb, and they claim to be hardened steel.

The packaging says made in Taiwan and shows an address at 55 Brownlee Street Pinkenba (suburb of Brisvegas for those of you who live elsewhere) and a web address www.t-max.com.au

I also bought a couple more 4.75 tonnne bow shackles from the same crowd at the same place. Worse than going to a fishing tackle shop. Bill for leads, plugs two hooks and two shackles was about $150 :-) the shackles are $18 and the hooks $20

[Bigrig]

I found them at Autobarn Virginia while chasing up plug leads and plugs, ok ok they were at the other end of the shop :-)

they are T-Max brand, the hook is marked max load 10000lbs, the packaging WLL 4,500kg/10,000 lb, and they claim to be hardened steel.

The packaging says made in Taiwan and shows an address at 55 Brownlee Street Pinkenba (suburb of Brisvegas for those of you who live elsewhere) and a web address www.t-max.com.au

I also bought a couple more 4.75 tonnne bow shackles from the same crowd at the same place. Worse than going to a fishing tackle shop. Bill for leads, plugs two hooks and two shackles was about $150 :-) the shackles are $18 and the hooks $20

That's me then tomorrow - I'll go get another front one for the truck. Thanks mate!!

[Silver]

That's me then tomorrow - I'll go get another front one for the truck. Thanks mate!!

we might see if they are any good in the weekend commencing 28 May? :-)

[Silver]

we might see if they are any good in the weekend commencing 28 May? :-)

Today I found some of those black recovery hooks that are actually marked 4500kg WLL, which is an improvement on the ones I found at Autobarn, where it was only marked with a WLL on the packaging. This is from a camping shop on Old Gympie Road just opposite Paisley Drive and next to a great fresh fish shop - which is where I was headed. I looked carefully at the name, however that part of the hard drive has perhaps been wiped by the rumbos. The shop has some 4wd drive accessory type stuff and wears an Opposite Lock label or two out the front. I think the shop is pretty new and they are still setting up to a degree.

[molongmick]

Today I found some of those black recovery hooks that are actually marked 4500kg WLL, which is an improvement on the ones I found at Autobarn, .

Supercheap have 4500kg WLL hooks on sale at the moment f0r a touch under $15.

page 2 of pamphlet http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/catalogue-au.aspx

[Bigrig]

Thanks mate - seems to be a popular item at the moment - everyone is chasing them!!

[Silver]

Supercheap have 4500kg WLL hooks on sale at the moment f0r a touch under $15.

page 2 of pamphlet http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/catalogue-au.aspx

yeah, got my bridle from Supercheap, and went back later to get some shackles. They had two, one had a stripped thread out of the box..... doesn't say much for quality control of a rated product, and made me wonder about my bridle a bit. Certainly put me off the hooks, which were also on my list.

[flemj]

Hi,

I have just found this on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BLACK-RAT-BLACK-4WD-TOW-HOOK-OFF-ROAD-RECOVERY-POINT-/280577807441?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4153bd9451

Doesnt say what vehicles it fits, but claim is Australian made
Fully stamped and tagged safe working load (SWL) to a genuine 10,000 pound breaking point
Heavy duty steel forged black finished hook
High tensile mounting hardware included
Retaining clip fitted to hookWorth looking at???

How much is 10,000 in KG

John

[timbar]

10,000 pound is 4.5 tonne

[GUtsy ute]

4500 KG, John.
Cheers.

[GUtsy ute]

Darn, beaten to the punch again!

[AB]

Over the easter break at camp I got bored and decided to read the entire User Manual of the GQ....haha

I did notice that Nissan actually recommends the rear hook above the tow ball to be the proper recovery point at the rear?

I still don't trust it obviously and will always use the tow hitch slide in hook but interesting anyway...

[robbo0001]

Dunno if this will be "wrong" in respect to Forum rules (hope not...if so, please delete)
However...I purchased 1 (ONE) recovery point from ARB today for 80 bucks (2.8 GU 1999...3 different types of mounting positions apparently between GU variants, depending on engine)...

and the found this link http://www.lukeys4x4.com/products/recovery-pointsGU-GQ.html

Exactly the same as what I purchased, but for 2.

Postage...dunno. Have no affiliation, or even been in contact with them.

I love equaliser straps, and thats the primary reason I will be mounting two of these on the car. Reduce shock.
I always use the Hayman Reece recovery hitch insert, for "bum first" snatches...great piece of kit

Legalities, ratings, safety...I dunno. But in MY eyes...better than hooks, if used with rated shackles.

Cheers

[DSPIES]

Here's what I have on DX grunt for front recovery points .... 2005 GU DX ute. I have a left and right hand side. I think they're sold in pairs only.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/Mods-CBrecoverypointsmpcradle002.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/DXgruntfrontrecoverypoints001.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af279/DXgrunt/DXgruntfrontrecoverypoints002.jpg

Sorry for the thread dig...But...

Does anyone know where i can get a set of the recovery points DX Grunt has shown, in Melbourne or online?

In the alternative a few ppl seem to be using the Outback Ideas recovery point that just bolts into 2 holes similar to the factory tow hook but i'd rather the plate.

[Woof]

PM replied to DSPIES.

[Woof]

Over the easter break at camp I got bored and decided to read the entire User Manual of the GQ....haha

I did notice that Nissan actually recommends the rear hook above the tow ball to be the proper recovery point at the rear?

I still don't trust it obviously and will always use the tow hitch slide in hook but interesting anyway...

AB, they may state that it is the proper recovery point "for towing" but I doubt very much it could handle the pressures generated by a snatch strap..........maybe I am wrong but there is no way I want to find out.

[threedogs]

The recovery points pictured are not from either shop, they are OUTBACK IDEAS recovery points that these shop have stolen the design from. Feel free to PM me any time if you require rated front or rear recovery points. You should stop buying copies, these idiots have had no input in design testing or fitting. Ticks me right off when ppl get wrong info.

[Maxhead]

Can some one confirm the bolt size to mount the front recovery points. I got some beauties to fit but wrong bolts.

Will M12 x 1.25 x 40mm-12.9 High Tensile Bolts fit to existing mount points on a GU8???????

[oilpond]

[QUOTE=TheFlyingBadger;24845]Fellas

My (still) shiny new patrol (GU7) has the big hook-y thing on the underside at the front - is this a rated recovery point?

Bro your a funny guy!

[TheFlyingBadger]

firstly, it was a 2yo question. secondly - that hook is fine. show me someone where it's broken. even finding a straightening would be extreme.

[Clunk]

firstly, it was a 2yo question. secondly - that hook is fine. show me someone where it's broken. even finding a straightening would be extreme.

But he's right........ you're a funny guy!!!!! Lol

[threedogs]

That hook thingy WILL snap off and WILL straighten. I won't be trusting it as many others choose.
I'd even be surprised is the Nissan Patrol club OK'ed these for driver training, come on it could be someones life.
To the Badger I used to have a plastic bucket full of broken or straightened one. Yes it used to be OK but now they're
better ways for a recovery. this is old school thinking, and not safe. I for one would refuse to be recovered using one.
But thats just me ,you see I like tomorrow

To Oilpond no its not rated. never was ,never will be

[Benno7]

Is this the hook your talking about?
http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd478/benno7/19072012153.jpg

[threedogs]

Thank you, Thank you , now these so called EXPERTS might think twice. thank you
Thats why I refuse recoveries from 4x4 with these still on .
But sadly this will still be not enough proof for some. TOE TAGS are not popular

[my third 256]

some guys just dont read the threads from the start what part of no dont they understand lol

[threedogs]

Someone is going to be injured if all this info is not drummed in.
Not sure how many have done a recovery or driver awareness course,
Not sure how many are in a club that would be an interesting Poll [Mods please]
Some people do stupid things with recoveries, there are rule of thumb rules

[JonnoD]

While the ones on the back look weak you have to think about what forces it is been put through. The are been put directly in tension which is where metal is the best (unlike concrete where it is crap in tension and great in compression) so they dont need to be as big as the ones on the front as they are subject to twisting force as well that has by nature compressive forces in it, so they need to be more robust. Plus the bolts on the front recovery point are in shear compared to the ones on the back are in tension.
Just my 2c

[bindi]

I'm just taking the liberty of bringing this thread back to life as I have just bought a pair of rated recovery points from ThreeDogs to use with a bridle recovery strap, and they look like the beez knees in red too. I'll be fitting this next week.

This has been a good thread to read and hope others find it as helpful and informative as I did!

[jm2004]

Good to see your entry here Bindi and thanks for resurrecting this thread. I've read it all the way from first page as I really want to have "proper" recovery points front and rear (my Patrol has only done 600+ km at this stage - love the smell of freshly dried industrial motor vehicle glue and other dangerous materials :tongue: )

If I don't misunderstand (still not 100% after reading 11 page worth of comments), rated recovery is the only (safe) way to go, but we need to ensure the rating which includes the way the recovery points are attached to the chassis, not just that of the actual recovery point / hook etc itself.

I also believe using A bridle is great (especially for direct pull from the front) as it spreads the load onto both chassis rails. On this, looking at the thickness of the factory recovery point in front, I wonder if I have another on the left, whether it'll be strong enough (I will try my luck emailing Nissan to ask for the recovery hook rating on the right front of the vehicle).

[mudski]

Dont waste your timw emailing Nissan mate. Just get some plates from threedogs and be done with it.

[SKID]

I got a GU about 2 months ago, too the rated recover points off my old GQ, the holes line up, but I cant figure out how to mount the one on the passengers side, as unlike the GQ which had the chassis rail open to get a plate in there the GU chassis rails taper up to a point at the front, is there a trick to getting nuts in there to mount recovery points?