Cant get auto transmission in 89 GQ auto to go into diagnostic mode.

[ckh]

OK had torque converter replaced, a O ring is what was stopping lockup, as presure was blowing by it, now new problem.
1 at around 90-95ish every now and then the lockup will drop out for a split second, can see the tacho jump for a fraction of a second, if I didnt have a tacho wouldnt even notice it.
2 Cant perform self diagnostics on transmission like I used to, go though the normal proceedure and when I press the accelerator pedal, the power light just stays on, on this I noticed in this proceedure is when I put it in first and hit the power button the lock button on the side of the shifter doesnt come out. If I start the car up its will drive in first gear if I select first, I'm just pulling my hair out with what is stopping the system from going into diagnostic mode reading the manual it say if the power light stay on and doesnt go though the test its either Inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kick down switch idle switch or the A/T controler is damaged.
I'm assuming kick down is working and when driving, it kicks down when I floor it, everything else seems to be doing what its supposed to appart from the intermitant unlocking around 95, if I'm doing a 100 or more it does seem to unlock at all. could the fact the button on the side of the shifter isnt coming out, be the problem, and the computer doesnt see its actually in first for the next step in the diagnostics? Took it back to the tranny guy at underwood, he said not to stress about the computer not doing the diagnostics, or the fact that it trips out of lock up intermitentally, if any one can give me juggestion on what the problem could be I'd appreicate it, is the button on the side of the shifter supposed to come out as it does in every other gear I select?

[taslucas]

Not sure if you've read about my gearbox problems. (thread is called TB42 auto box electricals, in the gearbox section). I was having the same symptoms but mine would lock/unlock rapidly on the highway. The self diagnosis came up the same as yours. Check your wiring loom from the gearbox. Make sure all the plugs are in correctly. Check the fuses for the auto box, they are under the regular fuse box in the engine bay.

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

Not sure if you've read about my gearbox problems. (thread is called TB42 auto box electricals, in the gearbox section). I was having the same symptoms but mine would lock/unlock rapidly on the highway. The self diagnosis came up the same as yours. Check your wiring loom from the gearbox. Make sure all the plugs are in correctly. Check the fuses for the auto box, they are under the regular fuse box in the engine bay.

FanTapstic!

Does the side button on the shifter come out when in first gear, as it does in all other gears?

[taslucas]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/02/51.jpg
Here is my set up.
I think it may be different. The button on mine doesn't pop out by its self any time.

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/02/51.jpg
Here is my set up.
I think it may be different. The button on mine doesn't pop out by its self any time.

FanTapstic!

Looks exactly the same as mine, but when in first the button doesnt come out, just disconnected all wire connectors I could find and cleaned with contact cleaner, then when I tried to do diagnostic test, I hear a buzz/noise from near or in the transmission, if I disconnect the bottom wiring loom next to the battery "brown in color" the noise stops, I have check fuses inside kick panel, but where are the fuses in the engine bay located? are they blade type or what do they look like?

[ckh]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/02/51.jpg
Here is my set up.
I think it may be different. The button on mine doesn't pop out by its self any time.

FanTapstic!

Looking at the button in your pick on the right side of the shifter, with the scuff marks, thats the button I'm refering to, to put it in first you have to press button in, but when in first button doesnt come back out, like in second, drive, etc....

[taslucas]

Ahhh sorry. well in that case, then yeah that one comes back out as soon as i take my thumb off it. Its just a locator/locking thing to stop you accidently bumping the shifter into drive or reverse. Not sure why that wouldnt be popping out when it 1st gear but i doubt it has anything to do with the torque converter lockout. If anything, it may just have something to do with the linkages underneath.

[ckh]

Ahhh sorry. well in that case, then yeah that one comes back out as soon as i take my thumb off it. Its just a locator/locking thing to stop you accidently bumping the shifter into drive or reverse. Not sure why that wouldnt be popping out when it 1st gear but i doubt it has anything to do with the torque converter lockout. If anything, it may just have something to do with the linkages underneath.

I'm wondering if it may have something to do with me not being able to go into diagnostic mode...
just disconnected all wire connectors I could find and cleaned with contact cleaner, then when I tried to do diagnostic test, I hear a buzz/noise from near or in the transmission, if I disconnect the bottom wiring loom next to the battery "brown in color" the noise stops, I have check fuses inside kick panel, but where are the fuses in the engine bay located? are they blade type or what do they look like? I can find only one old glass type fuse, which seems fine, have checked under the black plate between the battery and guard and there are only relays in there....

[ckh]

Not sure if you've read about my gearbox problems. (thread is called TB42 auto box electricals, in the gearbox section). I was having the same symptoms but mine would lock/unlock rapidly on the highway. The self diagnosis came up the same as yours. Check your wiring loom from the gearbox. Make sure all the plugs are in correctly. Check the fuses for the auto box, they are under the regular fuse box in the engine bay.

FanTapstic!

Read your post, but could see how you resolved not being able to get inbto diagnostic mode...

[Alitis007]

If the button on the t bar isn't poping out its probably due to an adjustment on the auto from when you had it removed. The converter going in and out of lockup could be from rd conditions. Are you testing on a flat rd or hilly?? When your trying the self diagnosis has the car been driven for longer that 15mins above 80km/h?? When the rpm "flairs" how are you pressing the throttle???

I see you posted the same thing the other thread you started.

[taslucas]

I see you posted the same thing the other thread you started.

Yeah mate it might be a little easier to follow if you keep it all in one thread instead of double posting

[NissanGQ4.2]

Looking at the button in your pick on the right side of the shifter, with the scuff marks, thats the button I'm refering to, to put it in first you have to press button in, but when in first button doesnt come back out, like in second, drive, etc....

that is correct

1st gear the button stays in
2nd - Out
D - Out
N - Out
R - Out
P - Out

Running down through the gears Changing from Park to Reverse you need to press the button in and then from Second to First, all gears in between you can change without pressing the button in
Running up through you only need to press the button going from Reverse to Park

[NissanGQ4.2]

I have edited all your other posts with the same original question, please try and keep the same questions in one thread

Cheers

Todd

[taslucas]

Read your post, but could see how you resolved not being able to get inbto diagnostic mode...

Sorry I dont understand that bit?

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

Sorry I dont understand that bit?

FanTapstic!

How did you fix your problem of it not being able to go into diagnostic mode?

[NissanGQ4.2]

1 at around 90-95ish every now and then the lockup will drop out for a split second, can see the tacho jump for a fraction of a second, if I didnt have a tacho wouldnt even notice it.

You say if u didn't have a tacho you wouldn't notice it, to me that sounds like it may not be be dropping out, I believe if it dropped out you would notice it without a tacho, more than likely an electrical problem if that's the case. And the GQ auto's are know to jump in and out on hills hence the manual lock ups


2 Cant perform self diagnostics on transmission like I used to, go though the normal proceedure and when I press the accelerator pedal, the power light just stays on, on this I noticed in this proceedure is when I put it in first and hit the power button the lock button on the side of the shifter doesnt come out. If I start the car up its will drive in first gear if I select first, I'm just pulling my hair out with what is stopping the system from going into diagnostic mode reading the manual it say if the power light stay on and doesnt go though the test its either Inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kick down switch idle switch or the A/T controler is damaged.
I'm assuming kick down is working and when driving, it kicks down when I floor it, everything else seems to be doing what its supposed to appart from the intermitant unlocking around 95, if I'm doing a 100 or more it does seem to unlock at all. could the fact the button on the side of the shifter isnt coming out, be the problem, and the computer doesnt see its actually in first for the next step in the diagnostics? Took it back to the tranny guy at underwood, he said not to stress about the computer not doing the diagnostics, or the fact that it trips out of lock up intermitentally, if any one can give me juggestion on what the problem could be I'd appreicate it, is the button on the side of the shifter supposed to come out as it does in every other gear I select?

The button on side of shifter is just that, can't see it being a problem

Not sure on diagnostic light staying on but could also be caused by an electrical issues.

Have you checked all earthing to make sure you have good earth's

[ckh]

You say if u didn't have a tacho you wouldn't notice it, to me that sounds like it may not be be dropping out, I believe if it dropped out you would notice it without a tacho, more than likely an electrical problem if that's the case. And the GQ auto's are know to jump in and out on hills hence the manual lock ups
Yesterday when I took it back to the transmission center, he asked me to wire up a test light to the solinoid wire, can confirm that when the tacho jumps, the light on the solinoid wire flickers..


The button on side of shifter is just that, can't see it being a problem

Not sure on diagnostic light staying on but could also be caused by an electrical issues.

Have you checked all earthing to make sure you have good earth's

manual it say if the power light stay on and doesnt go though the test its either Inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kick down switch idle switch or the A/T controler is damaged.
1. Inhibitor switch must be working as I can only start the car when in park or neutral.
2. power shift switch is working as when triving if I hit the power switch, it drops down to 3rd, when I turn switch of it will go into 4th and then converter lockup if doing over 85
3 kick down switch is working as if I press accelerator hard it unlocks converter and kicks down a gear, or if driving slowly will drop down a gear, if going really slow and hit the pedal, it kicks down and the power light comes on.
4 idle switch dont know how to check this one
5. A/T controler is damaged. cant test this either as dont have a spare A/T controler at the moment but may be aquiring on in a few weeks.

The tranny guy adjusted my TPS but I noticed today when trying to do self diagnostic's the second I tyrn the key to "on" I could hear a buzzing type sound, climbed under the car and could hear it was coming from inside transmission, disconnecting wiring loom near battery "brown plug" stopped the buzzing..
Adjust TPS back to its origional position and when turn key to on, no buzzing, any one have any idea what would be buzzing in side the tranny. I'm going to call the tranny guy on monday to see what he says.

Also regarding converter unlocking for a split second, only does it between 85-95ish, if I sit on 100 or more, it doesnt flicker the test light, or the tacho, might cut the solinoid wire again tomorrow and run 12V to it via a switch, and see if that stops the intermitent unlock by bypassing the computer all together.
But when I try to do diagnostics, still get same result power like just stays solid, pre him putting the new converter in could do self diagnostics time after time... so something has happended when he has had the tranny out..... I'm open to suggestions to try, and or to give me more questions to throw at him on monday..

[taslucas]

cant get transmission to go into diagnosic mode, power light stays on, no codes

manual it say if the power light stay on and doesnt go though the test its either Inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kick down switch idle switch or the A/T controler is damaged.


How do mean the transmission isn't going into self diagnosis mode? It's showing up a code by the light staying on isn't it?

Also, I checked my auto shifter and my button doesn't pop out when in first. It works just as NissanGQ said.

FanTapstic!

[taslucas]

How did you fix your problem of it not being able to go into diagnostic mode?

How is it not in diagnosis mode?
What do you think diagnostic mode is?


I have edited all your other posts with the same original question, please try and keep the same questions in one thread

Cheers

Todd

Yeah you've tripple posted again mate. Can you please keep them in one thread as Todd had suggested? It makes it really hard to follow.

FanTapstic!

[NissanGQ4.2]

Marc, I have closed your other threads, It's very hard to keep track of what's already been suggested when there are answers to the same question in three various threads.

Cheers

Todd

[ckh]

[QUOTE=taslucas;330866]How is it not in diagnosis mode?
What do you think diagnostic mode is?

Diagnostic mode is when it doest the 10 flashes.... pre the transmission center doing the torque converter I could do that test, now its doesnt even try. I know what your saying that it may be as the continuious light could be the error code its self, but I'm concerned about the buzzing sound I heard from the transmission yesterday.....

[ckh]

Flat road, just crusing along, but it ony does it between 85-95 if I sit on 100 doesnt do it...

[taslucas]

My diagnosis test did the same as yours, one continuous light. One of the things it said in my book for that was a faulty TPS, turns out I didn't even have a TPS (someone had fitted a carby from a manual, which doesn't have a TPS) so it looks like the diagnosis was correct.

Other things that can cause the TC to lock/unlock are;
Losing oil pressure(like past the "o" ring as happened to you).

Faulty TPS.(try adjusting it slightly left or right)

Lockout solenoid faulty (maybe that is the buzzing sound. But it shouldn't be a rapid lock/unlock, more likely to just stay off or on).

Faulty temp switch (there are two bolted to the valvebody, one sends a signal to the tcu the other is solely for the temp warning light on the dash).

Dodgy wiring(but again, it would more likely stay on or off)

Faulty road speed sensor (fairly rare. Does the Speedo flicker at all)


FanTapstic!

[Alitis007]

1. Is the speedo accurate? Because on my car 85 - 95 on the cluster is only 78 - 85 ground speed.
2.On flat ground it should lock up at 60km/h when the fluid is over 60 degrees and once you depress the accelerator it unlocks.
3.@ 80km/h ground speed the autos do the same but more noticeably/harshly thats why people independently wire the solenoid to keep it locked up via a switch.

[ckh]

correction going for a long drive yesterday it was doing it at 100+ as well...

[Alitis007]

correction going for a long drive yesterday it was doing it at 100+ as well...

Sry mate but can you clarify that the actual motor races/flairs or just the tacho ???

[ckh]

Sry mate but can you clarify that the actual motor races/flairs or just the tacho ???
saw tacho jump and could feel a fare from the engine...

[NissanGQ4.2]

So when the Tranny was out was the O-ring the only thing replaced???? I assunme this was a n O-ring in the valve body and not the TC itself? Did he check the clutch packs, test the solenoids, Test the TC itself.....etc?????

[NissanGQ4.2]

Some light reading for you Marc

http://forums.nicoclub.com/g50-transmission-with-odd-shift-behavior-t550778.html

[ckh]

So when the Tranny was out was the O-ring the only thing replaced???? I assunme this was a n O-ring in the valve body and not the TC itself? Did he check the clutch packs, test the solenoids, Test the TC itself.....etc?????

the o ring was on the input shaft which is the inside the torque coverter when its on, he said he put a reconned converter on he didnt mention anything about clutch packs, but he said he replaced the pads in the handbrake drum. when I went back next morning, he pretty much said to live with it

[NissanGQ4.2]

the o ring was on the input shaft which is the inside the torque coverter when its on, he said he put a reconned converter on he didnt mention anything about clutch packs, but he said he replaced the pads in the handbrake drum. when I went back next morning, he pretty much said to live with it

Marc, is your tranny guy a transmission specialist or a general mechanic, I take your comment "he replaced the pads in the handbrake drum" as he is just a mechanic. Forget mechanics mate you need an auto specialist and some that knows about the RE4R03A Gearbox.

Where are you located again???

[ckh]

Some light reading for you Marc

http://forums.nicoclub.com/g50-transmission-with-odd-shift-behavior-t550778.html

I dont get it!!!!!!!

[ckh]

Im located in ipswich QLD I was refered to "The transmission center" at underwood, by wholesale automatics, He is supposed to be a tranny specialist.......

[ckh]

Marc, is your tranny guy a transmission specialist or a general mechanic, I take your comment "he replaced the pads in the handbrake drum" as he is just a mechanic. Forget mechanics mate you need an auto specialist and some that knows about the RE4R03A Gearbox.

Where are you located again???

The first tranny guy I took it to in Ipswich here has had a transmission shop for as long as i can remember, but he put it in the too hard basket saying it was an electrical fault, I was recommended by another forum member to try the transmission center at under wood, but before doing that I called whole transmissions and they got me to do some diagnosing and then they also refered me to the transmission center...Does any one here know of anyone in ipswich or brisbane who "knows this transmission" as perviously stated?

[ckh]

I dont get it!!!!!!!

"I have noticed lately that when I am cruising at a steady speed at times that the over-drive lockup tends to drop out for a few seconds and then re-engage." not unlocking for a few seconds and then locking up again as per that link you gave me, it unlocks littery for a fraction of a second, just anought to see the tacho jump, but on a long drive on sunday, I cold feel the motor rev up for that split second before relocking....

[taslucas]

Mine was the opposite. Once I got up to speed it would lock up for literally a second then unlock for a couple of seconds then lock again, then unlock etc etc. Sometimes it would be fairly rapidly and other times there would be a longer gap between locking and unlocking but was probably due to slightly different road conditions, ie; slight uphill or downhill, headwind, amount of accelerator used etc.

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

Mine was the opposite. Once I got up to speed it would lock up for literally a second then unlock for a couple of seconds then lock again, then unlock etc etc. Sometimes it would be fairly rapidly and other times there would be a longer gap between locking and unlocking but was probably due to slightly different road conditions, ie; slight uphill or downhill, headwind, amount of accelerator used etc.

FanTapstic!

How did you fix it. what was the problem?

[taslucas]

How did you fix it. what was the problem?

I'm pretty sure we've had this conversation lol (excuse me if it wasn't you:-)), I pointed you in the direction of my thread titled "TB42 auto box electricals" and then said that after spending all that time and money (A LOT of both) the problem just went away and I have no idea why!!! It was weeks after the last thing we tried and then it just stopped doing it!


FanTapstic!

[ckh]

Anyone got any ideas on fault diagnosing the wiring loom, easy.....So far look like a nightmare and need wires on my multimeter 6 feet longer than what I got.....

[Alitis007]

Have fun mate! I just remembered when i had my TPS. Fault every time i started the car the POWER button would flash but now it just stays illuminated for 2secs showing theres no code. Have you played with the TPS again after you got the converter sorted? Maybe the auto is thinking your accelerating harder then you are and its trying to kick down n go??

[ckh]

Have fun mate! I just remembered when i had my TPS. Fault every time i started the car the POWER button would flash but now it just stays illuminated for 2secs showing theres no code. Have you played with the TPS again after you got the converter sorted? Maybe the auto is thinking your accelerating harder then you are and its trying to kick down n go??

TPS is fine, kick down works fine, power button works fine, just cant get into diagnostic mode

[taslucas]

manual it say if the power light stay on and doesnt go though the test its either Inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kick down switch idle switch or the A/T controler is damaged.
1. Inhibitor switch must be working as I can only start the car when in park or neutral.
2. power shift switch is working as when triving if I hit the power switch, it drops down to 3rd, when I turn switch of it will go into 4th and then converter lockup if doing over 85
3 kick down switch is working as if I press accelerator hard it unlocks converter and kicks down a gear, or if driving slowly will drop down a gear, if going really slow and hit the pedal, it kicks down and the power light comes on.
4 idle switch dont know how to check this one
5. A/T controler is damaged. cant test this either as dont have a spare A/T controler at the moment but may be aquiring on in a few weeks.
.


TPS is fine, kick down works fine, power button works fine, just cant get into diagnostic mode

Diagnostic mode is ment to tell you what's wrong with the auto box. By having the power light stay on its trying to tell you that one of the above things isn't right. So that's a diagnosis isn't it?
You're expecting it to show something different than what it's showing you?
Another thing that got mentioned to me is to clean the pins/plug on the tcu.(in the passenger foot well on the door side). It made no difference to me but worth a shot

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

anyone got any tips on fault finding the wiring looms, it has to be one of the a broken wire or something....

[taslucas]

If it was a broken wire would the problem come and go (ie engage/disengage)? Or would it just never lock up?

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

If it was a broken wire would the problem come and go (ie engage/disengage)? Or would it just never lock up?

FanTapstic!

well there is something telling the computer to unlock every now and then or maybe the computer its self, the fact I cant get it into diagonostic mode since the guy dropped the box ans did the converter, any plugs or wires he had to disconnect to do that job could have got bent or broken

[taslucas]

Yeah that's what I mean, there's something making it unlock but if it was a broken wire it would probably be a constant thing. Not saying it's not a broken wire, just that it's more likely something else.
As I've said above, my diagnostic thing was doing the exact same as yours.
I wouldn't be too concerned with "getting it into diagnostic mode". I think it is diagnosing the problem as the books clearly state that a continuous light means those things you've mentioned above. Isn't that the diagnosis??
Anyway I would start checking all of the suggestions people have made.
TPS
Fuses
Loose or dirty plugs
Faulty power/overdrive button
Tcu plug condition
Fluid condition, type and level
TC condition
Temp sensors
Speed sensor




FanTapstic!

[taslucas]

The temp sensor may have been incorrectly fitted or damaged when the box was out

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

The temp sensor may have been incorrectly fitted or damaged when the box was out

FanTapstic!

he shouldnt have needed to touch it

[ckh]

Yeah that's what I mean, there's something making it unlock but if it was a broken wire it would probably be a constant thing. Not saying it's not a broken wire, just that it's more likely something else.
As I've said above, my diagnostic thing was doing the exact same as yours.
I wouldn't be too concerned with "getting it into diagnostic mode". I think it is diagnosing the problem as the books clearly state that a continuous light means those things you've mentioned above. Isn't that the diagnosis??
Anyway I would start checking all of the suggestions people have made.
TPS
Fuses
Loose or dirty plugs
Faulty power/overdrive button
Tcu plug condition
Fluid condition, type and level
TC condition
Temp sensors
Speed sensor




FanTapstic!
I wouldn't be too concerned with "getting it into diagnostic mode". I think it is diagnosing the problem as the books clearly state that a continuous light means those things you've mentioned above. Isn't that the diagnosis??
Anyway I would start checking all of the suggestions people have made.
TPS
getting a second hand tps this sundat will try it..
Fuses
can only find one fuse related to A/T in fuse box near drivers kick panel
Loose or dirty plugs

have unplugged the connectors near the battery and cleaned them with contact cleaner, and even a "nipple cleaner" for a gas cutter to make sure contacts were clean, can you tell me the location of "all" the plugs they would have had to undo to drop the tranny out.... Am also getting a second hand wiring loom and computer for it along with a spare transmission this sunday so will have bits and pieces to swap around, I agree bad or dirty plugs/contacts as appart from lockup everytyhing worked and tested fine before they changed the converter, Put 12V to the lockup wire yesterday and it locked and stayed locked until I turned switch off, so want to find whats telling the computer to unlock for that befif period.
Faulty power/overdrive button

It works perfectly, press it, power light comes on and it drops down gears, turn on get 4th back
Tcu plug condition

cleaned the conects and plugs on it yesterday after doing the 12V test and soldering it up when finished
Fluid condition, type and level

The tranny guy says it the correct specified fluid and levels are correct
TC condition
New, and by running 12V straight to the solinoid and bypassing all other electricals that come into ply, locks up and stays locked
Temp sensors

Found a thread to wire a resistor in place so the TCU thinks the tranny is always are right temp regardless if temp sender is faulty or not...
Speed sensor

Dont know how to test speed sensor... but as said earlier everthing was fine until he dropped the tranny out, so leaning towards either a dirty or not fully connected plug, or if one of his apprentices did it, maybe there was a plug he forgot to unplug when starting to drop tranny ut and resulted in stretching or breaking a wire..

[ckh]

he shouldnt have needed to touch it

Doing the trick with the resistor will get around the temp sender if there is a problem there and may cure my unlocking issue, but i want to solve WHY I cant get into diagnostic mode and what the problem is there...

[ckh]

can some one give me a list of plugs they would have had to disconnect to drop the tranny out, and also appart from the 1 fuse in the drivers kick panel the location of any other fuses i need to check?

Thanks....

[taslucas]

Yeah well you've definitely covered most bases!
Ok well thats a good sign that you can get the solenoid to lock and stay locked by putting power to it. Is that while driving or just testing stationary?
Maybe try adjusting your tps slightly left or right and a bit of contact cleaner in there probably wouldn't hurt.

The tcu uses road speed, throttle position and gearbox temp to determine when to lock/unlock.
Unlikely to be the speed sensor ad you've said.
Also loss of fluid pressure will make it unlock. This can be from fluid getting past the input shaft o ring. Mine box got pulled down after fitting a reco TC didn't solve the problem. It was then found that the new o ring they had put in had split. It took three attempts to get the TC back in without splitting the o ring. (and this is by a gearbox specialist). Could this have happened to yours?
I drove around for a few days with an oil pressure gauge hanging in the window to determine if pressure wad getting passed the TC. We found that it was losing pressure and therefore found out about the split o ring. But after that was fixed and pressure was correct, it still didnt fix my problem!
I'm sorry I still have no idea what the fix was!! It just went away..... Drives me nuts!!

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

Yeah well you've definitely covered most bases!
Ok well thats a good sign that you can get the solenoid to lock and stay locked by putting power to it. Is that while driving or just testing stationary?
Maybe try adjusting your tps slightly left or right and a bit of contact cleaner in there probably wouldn't hurt.

The tcu uses road speed, throttle position and gearbox temp to determine when to lock/unlock.
Unlikely to be the speed sensor ad you've said.
Also loss of fluid pressure will make it unlock. This can be from fluid getting past the input shaft o ring. Mine box got pulled down after fitting a reco TC didn't solve the problem. It was then found that the new o ring they had put in had split. It took three attempts to get the TC back in without splitting the o ring. (and this is by a gearbox specialist). Could this have happened to yours?
I drove around for a few days with an oil pressure gauge hanging in the window to determine if pressure wad getting passed the TC. We found that it was losing pressure and therefore found out about the split o ring. But after that was fixed and pressure was correct, it still didnt fix my problem!
I'm sorry I still have no idea what the fix was!! It just went away..... Drives me nuts!!

FanTapstic!
12V to lockup solinoid while driving kept it locked, not fluctuations of the tacho or even a nint that it was unlocking for a second or so,,, Just want to get things back the way they were,, I know not going into diganostic mode is not do or die... but want to find what the problemds is preventing it from behaving normally, then hopefully that will also solve what ever is signalling the TCU to unlock for that breif period randomly...

[ckh]

Yeah well you've definitely covered most bases!
Ok well thats a good sign that you can get the solenoid to lock and stay locked by putting power to it. Is that while driving or just testing stationary?
Maybe try adjusting your tps slightly left or right and a bit of contact cleaner in there probably wouldn't hurt.

The tcu uses road speed, throttle position and gearbox temp to determine when to lock/unlock.
Unlikely to be the speed sensor ad you've said.
Also loss of fluid pressure will make it unlock. This can be from fluid getting past the input shaft o ring. Mine box got pulled down after fitting a reco TC didn't solve the problem. It was then found that the new o ring they had put in had split. It took three attempts to get the TC back in without splitting the o ring. (and this is by a gearbox specialist). Could this have happened to yours?
I drove around for a few days with an oil pressure gauge hanging in the window to determine if pressure wad getting passed the TC. We found that it was losing pressure and therefore found out about the split o ring. But after that was fixed and pressure was correct, it still didnt fix my problem!
I'm sorry I still have no idea what the fix was!! It just went away..... Drives me nuts!!

FanTapstic!

I thought it may have been fluid presure also, but knocked that thought on the head quick after running 12V to it and it stayed locked, were as previously when the o ring was stuffed, if I put 12V to it and pressed the pedel you could feel it shudder in all gears, being presure was blowing past o ring...

[taslucas]

I thought it may have been fluid presure also, but knocked that thought on the head quick after running 12V to it and it stayed locked, were as previously when the o ring was stuffed, if I put 12V to it and pressed the pedel you could feel it shudder in all gears, being presure was blowing past o ring...

I'm just guessing here....

The TC locks up with the solenoid. That in turn locks up from a signal from the computer. I haven't heard of there being an fluid pressure sensor in the box but the box must turn fluid pressure into a signal that tells the solenoid to lock. The solenoid doesn't lock straight from fluid pressure, it locks from an electrical signal. So if you lock the solenoid by hard wiring power then it wouldn't matter what the fluid pressure is doing?
Lol, totally just guessing here nut does it make sense?

EDIT:
Mine didn't shudder through the gears when I had the pressure gauge on it showing losing pressure.

FanTapstic!

[taslucas]

This is what I mean about the diagnosis.
Problem: light stays on steadily
Cause: inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged.

So your saying that you can't get into diagnosismode but by getting the "light stays on steadily" then you are receiving a diagnosis from the car. ??http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/02/96.jpg

FanTapstic!

[taslucas]

That might have been a bit hard to read. Try this...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/02/97.jpg


FanTapstic!

[ckh]

That might have been a bit hard to read. Try this...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/02/97.jpg


FanTapstic!
Just got off the phone to the transmission guy who did the job he said the didnt even drop the pan off, ans is sure no wires got stretched or bent when dropping tranny out, he also said that me running 12V to the solinoid via a switch, bypasing everything he says pressures must be fine otherwise it wouldnt lock up, or have issues,,, just need to find out what is causing the computer to tell it to unlock and what is disconnected above causing it not to go into diagnostic mode...

[taslucas]

I still don't understand what you think diagnostic mode is??
Have a look at the pic I posted. There is a list of the different signals that are displayed after you access the self diagnosis system. One of the signals is "light stays on steadily". It is the last line under "Problem"
So if your getting the "light stays on steadily" signal then you are receiving a diagnosis...



This is what I mean about the diagnosis.
Problem: light stays on steadily
Cause: inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kickdown switch or idle switch circuit is disconnected or the control unit is damaged.

So your saying that you can't get into diagnosismode but by getting the "light stays on steadily" then you are receiving a diagnosis from the car. ??http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2013/02/96.jpg

FanTapstic!



FanTapstic!

[ckh]

my point is is that the diagnosis error, or as part of the last stage of going into diagnostic mode is to turn power button to on, so is the power light being on, because of the switch, or is it as the manual says an error its self.....

[Alitis007]

my point is is that the diagnosis error, or as part of the last stage of going into diagnostic mode is to turn power button to on, so is the power light being on, because of the switch, or is it as the manual says an error its self.....

The last part of the self diagnosis test is to turn the "OVER DRIVE" button on and the power button stays on auto?!?

[ckh]

The last part of the self diagnosis test is to turn the "OVER DRIVE" button on and the power button stays on auto?!?

thats what i trying to sy, is it just cause the power button is on or is it the result of the diagnostic test.
turn key to on
put in drive, press power button to power 'power light on dash comes on'
change to second, press power button to auto 'power light on dash goes off'
change to first press power button again 'power light on dash comes on'
depress and release accelerator.

so my thinking is, is the power button on because of step three, when i press accelerator nothing happens
when it used to go into diagnostic mode after pressing accelator power light would go out breifly then one long flash to begin test then the ten flash codes, but now when i hit the accelerator button nothing the light remains on, i would have thought it may breifly go out then come on and say on, that is how i would be thinking it has entered diagnostic mode and then the light stays on... am i making sence....

[ckh]

The locking and unlocking is becoming more frequent, today on 2 occassions, it kept locking and unlocking and locking again, but the tranny guy assures me that since I tested it with 12V to the solinoid and it stayed locked the pproblem isnt with the converter but in the wiring or something.. Any ideas any one...

[Alitis007]

If you have a mate with the same car borrow his TPS the test your car then try his computer. If you know a wrecker maybe they can lend them to you. Also look at the accelerator pedal inside the car and see if there is a kick down switch on the top of in?

[ckh]

If you have a mate with the same car borrow his TPS the test your car then try his computer. If you know a wrecker maybe they can lend them to you. Also look at the accelerator pedal inside the car and see if there is a kick down switch on the top of in?
what do Ido with the kick down switcg, if I floor it while driving it does still kick down

[Alitis007]

Disconnect it and see if it still flairs, it sounds like more like a sensor or a switch is telling the the auto to kick down while cruising. These autos are fully electronic so the valve body is controlled with solenoids so if you eliminate everything else then it might have dodgy wiring in the auto or the circuitry that controls the kick down function has a fault in it but you need to start somewhere and leave the good components in till you get your result then back track

[ckh]

Disconnect it and see if it still flairs, it sounds like more like a sensor or a switch is telling the the auto to kick down while cruising. These autos are fully electronic so the valve body is controlled with solenoids so if you eliminate everything else then it might have dodgy wiring in the auto or the circuitry that controls the kick down function has a fault in it but you need to start somewhere and leave the good components in till you get your result then back track

Dodgy wiring in the transmission or to the transmission?

[NissanGQ4.2]

Dodgy wiring in the transmission or to the transmission?

Could be anywhere, need to start somewhere and eliminate what you can, better to start from the outside than 2 take the gearbox out again and find the problem was on the outside

[Alitis007]

Disconnect it and see if it still flairs, it sounds like more like a sensor or a switch is telling the the auto to kick down while cruising. These autos are fully electronic so the valve body is controlled with solenoids so if you eliminate everything else then it might have dodgy wiring in the auto or the circuitry that controls the kick down function has a fault in it but you need to start somewhere and leave the good components in till you get your result then back track with the old ones.

[ckh]

Disconnect it and see if it still flairs, it sounds like more like a sensor or a switch is telling the the auto to kick down while cruising. These autos are fully electronic so the valve body is controlled with solenoids so if you eliminate everything else then it might have dodgy wiring in the auto or the circuitry that controls the kick down function has a fault in it but you need to start somewhere and leave the good components in till you get your result then back track with the old ones.

Found switch, but cant find connector to disconnect it, MaNUALLY TESTED IT AND IT GIVE A DEFINATE CLICK BOTH WITH PUSHED WITH MY FINGER, OR THE PEDAL IS PRESSED DOWN..

[ckh]

A mate is giving me a TCU and TPS today alone with a wireloom and tranny from anohter car, in case its the inhibator switch on the side of the box, and then have a spare box for spares if I need it, just need to remove the "auto wiring from the loom as his mate wants the rest of the loom to get his GQ he's building going which is a manual...

[taslucas]

Good stuff, at least you'll have plenty of bits to play with

FanTapstic!

[ckh]

Put new computer in an tps, no difference still locks and unlocks and cant get into diagnostic mode still

[Alitis007]

Try removing that kickdown switch if you cant find the plug or cut the wires test then re soldier them after

[Alitis007]

Or pay to get it diagnosed on a dyno that way the signals can be monitored while its in drive?? That might be your best bet with your limited resources and dead ends your finding your self at!!

[ckh]

tried the trick with a 330 ohm resistor to bypass the temp sender incase that was the issue, made no difference...

[ckh]

Try removing that kickdown switch if you cant find the plug or cut the wires test then re soldier them after

tried unplugging it, only thing that changed was when I start the car get a number of quick flashes, still cant get into diagnostic mode...

[ckh]

tried a replacement TPS and a replacement TCU no difference, am waiting on a mate to source a decent "manual" to swap with him, I'm so over this auto issue, hopefully he'll come up with one soon...
If I keep the speed at 100 or more its fine, only at 95 or under will it intermitently unlock.... but still cant figure out why I cant get into diagnostic mode...

[NissanGQ4.2]

tried unplugging it, only thing that changed was when I start the car get a number of quick flashes, still cant get into diagnostic mode...

I believe you are in diagnostic mode and them flashes or lack there of are trying to tell you something.

Can you video yourself putting it into diagnostic mode and showing the flashes or lack there off and posting it on u-tube for us 2 look at????

[NissanGQ4.2]

tried a replacement TPS and a replacement TCU no difference, am waiting on a mate to source a decent "manual" to swap with him, I'm so over this auto issue, hopefully he'll come up with one soon...
If I keep the speed at 100 or more its fine, only at 95 or under will it intermitently unlock.... but still cant figure out why I cant get into diagnostic mode...

So at 100+ your TC will stay locked correct?

and between 95 and under it locks and unlocks, at what speed are you at when it first locks???

[taslucas]

Could it be a speed sensor problem then?
Wholesale autos told me that rapid locking/unlocking of the torque converter is caused by:
Loosing fluid pressure (ie failed seal)
Faulty TPS
Faulty tcu
Faulty lockout solenoid
Faulty temp sensor
Faulty speed sensor
Loose/broken wire (less likely to be intermittent locking)


FanTapstic!

[NissanGQ4.2]

Could it be a speed sensor problem then?
Wholesale autos told me that rapid locking/unlocking of the torque converter is caused by:
Loosing fluid pressure (ie failed seal)
Faulty TPS
Faulty tcu
Faulty lockout solenoid
Faulty temp sensor
Faulty speed sensor
Loose/broken wire (less likely to be intermittent locking)


FanTapstic!

yep what Lucas said

[Alitis007]

For the last couple of months you have said you have tried just about every electrical test, what if its the oil pump in the auto not flowing enough oil to the converter? Maybe it got damaged when you blew the converter. Cracked servo loosing oil so its dropping the pressure untill you get to higher speeds?? A blockage in the valve body thats not allowing the correct amount of flow to pass thru the solenoids??

Everything i have written is leaning to a mechanical fault but you will need to find a TOP auto trans specialist that knows whats going on to eliminate everything. I know one bloke here in melbourne thats friends with my old man that i can pull out of retirement for jobs that no one else can solve!!

[ckh]

For the last couple of months you have said you have tried just about every electrical test, what if its the oil pump in the auto not flowing enough oil to the converter? Maybe it got damaged when you blew the converter. Cracked servo loosing oil so its dropping the pressure untill you get to higher speeds?? A blockage in the valve body thats not allowing the correct amount of flow to pass thru the solenoids??

Everything i have written is leaning to a mechanical fault but you will need to find a TOP auto trans specialist that knows whats going on to eliminate everything. I know one bloke here in melbourne thats friends with my old man that i can pull out of retirement for jobs that no one else can solve!!

The guy who did my converter, says he's sure there is nothing wrong with oill pressure, but cant explain why I cant get into diagnostic mode etc, he is supposed to be an expert who auto wholesalers refered me to along with a few other people from this forum and others...

[Alitis007]

The guy who did my converter, says he's sure there is nothing wrong with oill pressure, but cant explain why I cant get into diagnostic mode etc, he is supposed to be an expert who auto wholesalers refered me to along with a few other people from this forum and others...

So he put it on a flushing machine that tests flow and pressure??? Or just said that he telepathically tested it by driving???

[ckh]

Could it be a speed sensor problem then?
Wholesale autos told me that rapid locking/unlocking of the torque converter is caused by:
Loosing fluid pressure (ie failed seal)
Faulty TPS
Faulty tcu
Faulty lockout solenoid
Faulty temp sensor
Faulty speed sensor
Loose/broken wire (less likely to be intermittent locking)


FanTapstic!

Its all over the place, sometimes can drive for ages with out unlocking, then do it several times in several K's
"Faulty TPS
Dtried different one no cange
Faulty tcu
tried diferent on no change
Faulty lockout solenoid
Have hard wires soliniod and traany guy says that is by passing all other electrical and mechanica problems if the exist and it stays locked
Faulty temp sensor
Tried the 330 ohm resistor trick, to fool the tcu into thinking its at the correct temp, made no difference
Faulty speed sensor
havent tried this one yet, will have to source a speed sensor, are you referig to the one on the rear of the tranny?
Loose/broken wire (less likely to be intermittent locking)
Buggered if I know, it locks up when it should but after a few k's will intermitantly unlock and relock, sometimes once every so often, some times several times in several k, some times several times in a couple of k's...

[ckh]

So he put it on a flushing machine that tests flow and pressure??? Or just said that he telepathically tested it by driving???
he said he hooked it up to do the flush when he put the new converter on

[ckh]

So he put it on a flushing machine that tests flow and pressure??? Or just said that he telepathically tested it by driving???



But I still cant figure out why, before he touched it, the problem was the converter wasnt locking up, after he did the converter, cant get into diagnostic mode, so from the time i dropped it off to the time it got back to me, something happened to stop it from going into diag mode... he said if it was his car he wouldnt worry about it, i said its not your car its mine and i am worried about it...

[Alitis007]

But I still cant figure out why, before he touched it, the problem was the converter wasnt locking up, after he did the converter, cant get into diagnostic mode, so from the time i dropped it off to the time it got back to me, something happened to stop it from going into diag mode... he said if it was his car he wouldnt worry about it, i said its not your car its mine and i am worried about it...

Look to be honest mate your fault is strange and its hard to diagnose from messages.

I have been in and out of workshops my whole life, some times ( i'm not trying to make excuses for the auto bloke) a car comes in with a fault that we fix but its hiding an underlying issue. As we have said before, what you think is not going into diagnostic mode could really mean there is a fault. We have tried to guid you with the easiest causes with the fault so unless you are prepared to spend some $$ to solve your issue, save up and convert it to manual. Don't loose faith in your truck i have seen the pictures you posted and its a neat looking rig so spend your money to try and fix the auto or convert it to manual.

Personally i would like to know whats the cause of the fault for future knowledge, but the ball is in your court and we will keep trying to help you!!

[ckh]

Look to be honest mate your fault is strange and its hard to diagnose from messages.

I have been in and out of workshops my whole life, some times ( i'm not trying to make excuses for the auto bloke) a car comes in with a fault that we fix but its hiding an underlying issue. As we have said before, what you think is not going into diagnostic mode could really mean there is a fault. We have tried to guid you with the easiest causes with the fault so unless you are prepared to spend some $$ to solve your issue, save up and convert it to manual. Don't loose faith in your truck i have seen the pictures you posted and its a neat looking rig so spend your money to try and fix the auto or convert it to manual.

Personally i would like to know whats the cause of the fault for future knowledge, but the ball is in your court and we will keep trying to help you!!

Thank you....

[NissanGQ4.2]

But I still cant figure out why, before he touched it, the problem was the converter wasnt locking up, after he did the converter, cant get into diagnostic mode, so from the time i dropped it off to the time it got back to me, something happened to stop it from going into diag mode... he said if it was his car he wouldnt worry about it, i said its not your car its mine and i am worried about it...

It may be the case that the diagnostic mode is still working but is giving you a different error to the one you had before it went in for repair.

Without actually seeing you do the test I cant say for certain that it is or isn't going into diagnostic mode, from what you have said it sounds like it is still going into DM and giving you an error

[ckh]

resolved lock up flaring but replacing the speed sensor :)

[Alitis007]

I bet you feel like a massive weight had been lifted from your shoulders!! NOW GO OUT AND ENJOY!!!!

[taslucas]

resolved lock up flaring but replacing the speed sensor :)

Awesome to hear mate. I suggested it in post number 23 in this thread and i think even earlier in one of your other threads lol, 70 odd posts later its resolved:). Now sit back and enjoy the superior properties of driving offroad with an auto:):):)
It took me $4200 to get rid of my problem (and still dont know how/why it went) but i got the Nomad heavy duty valvebody fitted during that time too. So your headache was a bit cheaper

Ill say again: GREAT STUFF MATE! THE HEADACHES ARE OVER!

and as Alitis said: GO OUT AND ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ckh]

resolved lock up flaring but replacing the speed sensor :)

had to go for a long drive to do a job today, after about 20min driving the flaring is back... but not as bad..

[NissanGQ4.2]

Very interesting indeed

Am also interested in the "330 ohm resistor trick" to fool the tcu into thinking its at the correct temp.

Don't recall reading or hearing anyone do that before

[ckh]

Very interesting indeed

Am also interested in the "330 ohm resistor trick" to fool the tcu into thinking its at the correct temp.

Don't recall reading or hearing anyone do that before

Found it on another forum...Took a measurement of the temp sensor loom resistance and it wasn't good (reading open circuit). Either way, I preceed with the plan & measured the voltage across pin 12 of the TCM (PURPLE WIRE). At first the reading were normal ie 1.56v when cold. I took the car for drive whilst monitoring the multimeter & could see the voltage dropping as the box warmed up (all normal). However, not long after the voltage went from .96v straight to 2.57v & the problem occurred ie no 4th gear. I toggled the battery isolation switch as I've done many times in the past and the voltage went back down to .95v - welcome back 4th gear. Seems the temp sensor was going o/c intermittently confusing the TCM.
I've added some photos of what I've done to by-pass the issue so others can avoid the expense (TPS & Revolution sensor which I've done in vain) & over-all trouble.

1) You'll need to get yourself a 330ohm resistor ( I went with a 1watt which I think is overkill) but for 45cents you get enough to do your truck & a mates!


2) On my GQ the terminal block which houses most if not all the wiring for the transmission & is the 'BROWN CONNECTOR' which is in the middle (see pic).


3) Once you've disconnected the terminal you need to find the 'BLACK & WHITE' wire both of which are smack bang in the middle. I cut both with a little extra length then soldered the resistor & little wire in a loop back to the wires which were previously cut. To finish, I added some heat shrink to protect the resistor & to make it look tidy.


4) Once done, reconnnect the all wiring & verify your work by measuring across pin 12 of the TCM & ground (ignition on). If you get .46v (or there abouts) you've got 2 thumbs up!!!


By installing the resistor you negate the need to drop all your tranny fluid, remove the pan & most important spend a squillion dollars at nissan. All the resistor does is make the tranny believe it's hot/ warm from the get go. So keep it in mind and try avoid getting to speeds which will 'lock the torque converter' before it's had enough time to warm up.