Problem with auto converter isnt locking up

[ckh]

Since doing an oil change on the transmission on the week end, it has fixed the little bump I would fell when it changed gears, but now the torque converter isnt locking up? Any ideas

[taslucas]

What conditions are you expecting the torque converter to lock up in?
Which engine?
GQs have a throttle position sensor that affects when/if the torque converter locks up.
If working properly it should only lock up when you get to around 80km/hr while under light acceleration.

Tap, crackle, pop

[Bigrig]

What conditions are you expecting the torque converter to lock up in?
Which engine?
GQs have a throttle position sensor that affects when/if the torque converter locks up.
If working properly it should only lock up when you get to around 80km/hr while under light acceleration.

Tap, crackle, pop

X2 -Lucas and I have both well and truly been down this old path!! lol

[ckh]

What conditions are you expecting the torque converter to lock up in?
Which engine?
GQs have a throttle position sensor that affects when/if the torque converter locks up.
If working properly it should only lock up when you get to around 80km/hr while under light acceleration.

Tap, crackle, pop

Sorry its a TB42 engine, replaced the fluid with dex 3 as advised, it used to lock up at arpund 85ish I'd be driving down the highway, then would notive the reve drop by 200rmp or so, last few days doing 100 its reving at 2200 to 2400RPM instead of if it locked up it would be around the 1800-1900RMP mark, at around 85-90 I can feek a shudder like its trying to lock up but then gives up after about 5-10 seconds, I have noticed I over filled the tranny, but calling local transmission places they said that wouldnt make any difference, am going to bleed some fluiud out so its right level, one trany guy with out even looking at it said due to its age it needs a rebuild 5K+

[taslucas]

Have a look on the side of the carby, the TPS is a little black plastic box with wires going in to it. The main butterfly shaft goes into it. Check if all the wires/contacts are in good condition. The TPS has a little bit of left/right adjustment. See if it looks like it's moved.
There are also fuses for the gearbox hiding down underneath the the other visible fuse box in the engine bay.

5k sounds a little overpriced for a rebuild. If your in Vic, check out Wholesale Automatics, they are specialists for that gearbox and know their stuff.
There is also a great DIY rebuild thread that NissanGQ4.2 made. If your handy with the tools you can save heaps if it needs a rebuild.
Mine was completely rebuilt and I still had issues with the lockup converter, so yours may not need a rebuild to fix the problem.

Tap, crackle, pop

[ckh]

Will look for the fuses in the engine bay the only fuse I found so far was on in the cab on drivers kick panel marked a/t, it was in tact, will look for the ones in the engine bay, just took it to nissan they wanted a couple of hundred just to find the problem, took it to another auto tranny guy were I live in Ipswich QLD he said he could be the nulon additive as he said its too slippery for an auto locking torque converter, he said his price for a full rebuild if needed would be 3Kish very cloudy here at the moment will cheeck the TPS etc when there is a bit more light

[Bigrig]

Will look for the fuses in the engine bay the only fuse I found so far was on in the cab on drivers kick panel marked a/t, it was in tact, will look for the ones in the engine bay, just took it to nissan they wanted a couple of hundred just to find the problem, took it to another auto tranny guy were I live in Ipswich QLD he said he could be the nulon additive as he said its too slippery for an auto locking torque converter, he said his price for a full rebuild if needed would be 3Kish very cloudy here at the moment will cheeck the TPS etc when there is a bit more light

$2.5-3Kis more the money - call TransTech and have a chat to them - it could be the seal between the torque converter being perished letting fluid rush past when locked up, could be the plates in the TC itself, and could be a box rebuild ... either way, hard to diagnose without the box out ... exactly what I'm having done .. Crappy news before Xmas old mate, but the only other thing you can try is an additive called "Instant Shudder Fixx" by Dr Tranny (American, not sure where you get it here, but I'm about to start hunting also), with Lucas and Motorcraft also selling well known products ...

I'm going to give them a go first and hopefully prevent a costly repair ...

[lhurley]

I had my auto reconditioned recently, this week as a matter of fact. I had other work done and also blew up my box but for the reco alone it is $2500. I got it done at "Transmission Center" at Underwood. I was recommended them by wholesale automatics. Unfortunately after tomorrow they are closed until the 7/1/13 but you wont find many places open before then anyway.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Hi mate, Cost on rebuild really depends on what they actually class as a rebuild and what there labour charges are

You might find the cheaper mob might replace some clutch packs if worn, but the more expensive place will replace all clutch packs regardless of condition, etc....

I would estimate I spend between 2.5 and 3 grand( including some tools ) rebuilding my RE403A auto gearbox myself in my TB4.2EFI, so add on top of that labour, you could end up closer to the 5g mark.

All I can say is shop around and the cheapest is not always the best .............the alternative to rebuilding yourself is to buy a rebuilt transmission locally, pick up on a trailer yourself an fit it yourself that way you save a little on labour cost.

[ckh]

Have a look on the side of the carby, the TPS is a little black plastic box with wires going in to it. The main butterfly shaft goes into it. Check if all the wires/contacts are in good condition. The TPS has a little bit of left/right adjustment. See if it looks like it's moved.
There are also fuses for the gearbox hiding down underneath the the other visible fuse box in the engine bay.

5k sounds a little overpriced for a rebuild. If your in Vic, check out Wholesale Automatics, they are specialists for that gearbox and know their stuff.
There is also a great DIY rebuild thread that NissanGQ4.2 made. If your handy with the tools you can save heaps if it needs a rebuild.
Mine was completely rebuilt and I still had issues with the lockup converter, so yours may not need a rebuild to fix the problem.

Tap, crackle, pop

how did/what did you do to resolve the lockup converter problem?

[taslucas]

how did/what did you do to resolve the lockup converter problem?

That's the crazy part.... Nothing I did made any difference..... Reco torque converter, brand new genuine TPS, had the box pulled down for a rebuild and found it was in excellent condition (recently rebuilt) so trans specialist went over everything, every little part looking for a fault and found none. While it was apart I got an aftermarket heavy duty valvebody fitted. Brand new genuine temp sender, replaced torque converter main shaft seal, had the tcu out and inspected. Checked all wiring looms, checked fuses.
Still the same problem.

Then one day it just went away!!!!!!!

Didnt know whether to be happy or sad! Happy the problem was gone, sad that I spent so much money on things I didnt have to.

That was nearly a year ago and the problem hadn't come back!!!

Tap, crackle, pop

[ckh]

That's the crazy part.... Nothing I did made any difference..... Reco torque converter, brand new genuine TPS, had the box pulled down for a rebuild and found it was in excellent condition (recently rebuilt) so trans specialist went over everything, every little part looking for a fault and found none. While it was apart I got an aftermarket heavy duty valvebody fitted. Brand new genuine temp sender, replaced torque converter main shaft seal, had the tcu out and inspected. Checked all wiring looms, checked fuses.
Still the same problem.

Then one day it just went away!!!!!!!

Didnt know whether to be happy or sad! Happy the problem was gone, sad that I spent so much money on things I didnt have to.

That was nearly a year ago and the problem hadn't come back!!!

Tap, crackle, pop

Going to change tranny fluid again this week end, both nissan and tranny specialist said castrol dextron 3 is fine, will replace filter this time, and not put nulon additive in as the tranny guy said it was too slippery in his opinion for an auto locking converter, he said if needed use wynns or something just not nulon... see if it starts locking up again like it was before I replaced fluid last weekend and added nulon..

[ckh]

how many fuses are there to check?
didnt know before today about fuses in engine bay only the one in the cabin marked a/t

[nissannewby]

I find it odd you didnt chnage the filter when changing the oil. This would be the first thing to do. Oil is cheap and so are filters if the filters clogged changing oil and putting in additives isnt gonna do much.

[ckh]

I find it odd you didnt chnage the filter when changing the oil. This would be the first thing to do. Oil is cheap and so are filters if the filters clogged changing oil and putting in additives isnt gonna do much.

Wasnt aware there was one When I changed the fluid as my manual does not mention one so I didnt change any filter, couldnt see one and for that matter wouldnt know what it looks like, tranny sump was clean, just build up of powdery stuff on the magnet, no filings or bits of rubber in the sump...

[lhurley]

Wasnt aware there was one When I changed the fluid as my manual does not mention one so I didnt change any filter, couldnt see one and for that matter wouldnt know what it looks like, tranny sump was clean, just build up of powdery stuff on the magnet, no filings or bits of rubber in the sump...

You should still have a tiny bit of fillings, just the way they are. The rubber as you say, that doesnt seem right to me, im sure someone will shed some light on this.

[ckh]

You should still have a tiny bit of fillings, just the way they are. The rubber as you say, that doesnt seem right to me, im sure someone will shed some light on this.

There was the usual metal powdery stuff stuck to the magnet, but no chunks of metal or shards thats what i mean by "no filings or bits of rubber in the sump" as in apart from what was stuck to the magnet, the sump was clean...

[NissanGQ4.2]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7942&d=1315738044

Filter is the big black object

Do you know what gearbox is in yours?

Some more pictures here if you want to take a look of inside a auto gearbox: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?5942-RE4R03A-Gearbox-Rebuild

[NissanGQ4.2]

There was the usual metal powdery stuff stuck to the magnet, but no chunks of metal or shards thats what i mean by "no filings or bits of rubber in the sump" as in apart from what was stuck to the magnet, the sump was clean...

How much metal powder stuck to the magnet,??? In my pics you will see how much was stuck to my magnet. No chunks, but one set of clutch packs was completely worn

[ckh]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7942&d=1315738044

Filter is the big black object

Do you know what gearbox is in yours?

Some more pictures here if you want to take a look of inside a auto gearbox: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?5942-RE4R03A-Gearbox-Rebuild

Mine looked nothing like that with the sump off....

[NissanGQ4.2]

Mine looked nothing like that with the sump off....

Would be interesting to know what gearbox is in yours Marc

[Yendor]

When you did the auto service and had the pan off did you disconnect any electrical connectors or undo any bolts with an earth connection under them?

[NissanGQ4.2]

And when you have it off again check your temp sensor wires as well, mine was broken and could be the reason it is not locking up

[ckh]

When you did the auto service and had the pan off did you disconnect any electrical connectors or undo any bolts with an earth connection under them?

Didnt have to unplug any wires, had access straight to the bolts..

[taslucas]

Are you able to post a photo?

[ckh]

And when you have it off again check your temp sensor wires as well, mine was broken and could be the reason it is not locking up

Where are ythe " temp sensor wires " your referring too. what do they look like?

[NissanGQ4.2]

Where are ythe " temp sensor wires " your referring too. what do they look like?

I'm pretty sure I have them named correctly. The white wire should be connected to the A/T Fluid Temp Sensor, mine wasn't when I took the valve body out.

23661

[taslucas]

Also there were about 4 different styles of A/T temp sensors fitted to the GQs so yours might look slightly different to the one in the pic. Mine was different.
Sorry I'm still having internet issues so can't post a pic of mine

Tap, crackle, pop

[ckh]

ok changed the filter today although look at the old one, it didnt look clogged and could run fluid through it with no restriction. nothing on magnet since last time i had it off a fortnight ago,put pan back on and filled it up. took it fdor a test drive and still wont lock up. when i had the pan off check and double checked for any loose or disconntect wires. might try running a wire as suggested to manually engage the lock up and see how that goes.

am leaning towards the converter it self is stuffed, but the tranny guy on the 9th should be able to tell me ya or nah when he does his diagnostics.
has any one else got any other ideas?

[NissanGQ4.2]

am leaning towards the converter it self is stuffed, but the tranny guy on the 9th should be able to tell me ya or nah when he does his diagnostics.
has any one else got any other ideas?

Besides running a manual lock up. Try what's in the post below

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?7595-How-to-check-the-stall-speed-of-your-torque-converter

Cheers

Todd

[ckh]

Besides running a manual lock up. Try what's in the post below

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?7595-How-to-check-the-stall-speed-of-your-torque-converter

Cheers

Todd

ok tried the 'stall' test, brake pressed as hard as i can and floored accelerator, motor reved to 2000rpm then either it would start pushing forward or rear wheels would start to spin, if i didnt take my foot off accerator at that point motor would stall.. so i know my lock up used to sit on 1800rpm at around 100k, so since the stall went to 2000rpm does that indicate that my converter is stuffed and the cause of my converter not locking up as it normally would, took it for a test drive imediatly after stall test and it still rev's to 2200-2400rpm at 100k instead of locking and dropping to 1800rpm...

[ckh]

what transmission fluid are others using here? the stuff i put in mine was the cheap castrol atf dextron 3 from super cheap. i'm hoping someone can tell me thats what had caused my torque converter from not locking up, as prior to dropping the pan the first time, my converter locked up first time every time i hit 80-90ish, now it will try only once and i feel a shudder when its trying, then it gives up after 5-20 seconds, and wont try again until engine has been turned off and back on again then again it will try once and not again.

[NissanGQ4.2]

ok tried the 'stall' test, brake pressed as hard as i can and floored accelerator, motor reved to 2000rpm then either it would start pushing forward or rear wheels would start to spin, if i didnt take my foot off accerator at that point motor would stall.. so i know my lock up used to sit on 1800rpm at around 100k, so since the stall went to 2000rpm does that indicate that my converter is stuffed and the cause of my converter not locking up as it normally would, took it for a test drive imediatly after stall test and it still rev's to 2200-2400rpm at 100k instead of locking and dropping to 1800rpm...

Sounds like TC itself is ok to me, but don't quote me as I'm far from mechanically minded.

Don't have the time @ the moment but later tonight I will re-read your thread completely.

Can you confirm which gearbox you have?

Also have you done the "SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE"????

Since my rebuild I have used Gulf Western - Syntrans ATF, seems ok to me. My old man is using it in his patrol as well and has had no problems with it.

Here is a link to the product specs: http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/transmission_fluid_SynTrans%2010w.html

24122

[lhurley]

Im a fan of Castrol Transmax Z. Its pretty expensive unfortunately. Couldnt tell you whats in mine now as i have just had it rebuilt and it has whatever the shop put in

[ckh]

Im a fan of Castrol Transmax Z. Its pretty expensive unfortunately. Couldnt tell you whats in mine now as i have just had it rebuilt and it has whatever the shop put in

how much did your rebuild cost you?

[ckh]

Sounds like TC itself is ok to me, but don't quote me as I'm far from mechanically minded.

Don't have the time @ the moment but later tonight I will re-read your thread completely.

Can you confirm which gearbox you have?

Also have you done the "SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE"????

Since my rebuild I have used Gulf Western - Syntrans ATF, seems ok to me. My old man is using it in his patrol as well and has had no problems with it.

Here is a link to the product specs: http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/transmission_fluid_SynTrans%2010w.html

24122

its the standard transmission for an 89 gq carby petrol model as far as I can see comparing it to pics in the workshop manual

[NissanGQ4.2]

Any idea what model your gearbox is, I assume its the RE4R03A, no real point giving you diagnostic info on that gearbox if yours is different

[ckh]

Any idea what model your gearbox is, I assume its the RE4R03A, no real point giving you diagnostic info on that gearbox if yours is different

Have done ""SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE" ten quick flashes so book says it passed all tests

just checked and yes it is an RE4R03A

[lhurley]

how much did your rebuild cost you?

The reco itself was $2500, but my tc bearing collapsed and basically destroyed my entire box and cooling so it cost double that.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Have done ""SELF-DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE" ten quick flashes so book says it passed all tests

just checked and yes it is an RE4R03A

Good, same gearbox as mine and what is in the manuals I have

First off can you download the AT.PDF file located in the link below, It's the AT Section for the RE4R03A:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yhgwo11jqqbt323/CrapK6Nt3L

File size is 18meg

Cheers

Todd

[NissanGQ4.2]

Ok, below are the things you need to test

1-8 you can Test with gearbox in, lucky last number 9 transmission needs to be removed

Do it in order as follows.

1) Throttle Sensor ( Adjustment ): AT32 ( Page 32 )

2) Revolution Sensor and Speed Sensor:

Revolution Sensor Test: AT-69 ( Page 69 )
Speed Sensor: EL-54 ( Page 54 )

3) Inhibitor Switch: AT-68 ( Page 68 )

4) Engine Revolution Sensor: AT-39 ( Page 39 )

5) Fluid Temperature Sensor: AT-69 ( Page 69 )

6) Line Pressure: AT-69 ( Page 69 )

7) Lock Up Solenoid: AT-69 ( Page 69 )

8) Control Valve Assembly

9) Torque Convertor

Not finished yet will let you know when complete

Cheers

Todd

[ckh]

Everything passes except the lock up solinoid, not engaging, or rather not locking, as you can feel it try then give up...

[ckh]

doesnt the throtal sensor just change if the gears change at lower or higher revs?

[NissanGQ4.2]

Everything passes except the lock up solinoid, not engaging, or rather not locking, as you can feel it try then give up...

So you have been through the manual and passed every single one of those 1 - 8 tests???

[ckh]

yes already had a copy of that same at.pdf file that the nissan techs use
yes test x if pass go to b if not bla bla bla

[ckh]

all except I cant find my Throttle Sensor

[NissanGQ4.2]

doesnt the throtal sensor just change if the gears change at lower or higher revs?

From my understanding, think I seen something in the manual but don't quote me

If you adjust the Throttle Sensor, it changes the the line pressure and incorrect line pressure will cause the lockup not to work

[ckh]

From my understanding, think I seen something in the manual but don't quote me

If you adjust the Throttle Sensor, it changes the the line pressure and incorrect line pressure will cause the lockup not to work
can you post a pic of what I'm looking for?

[NissanGQ4.2]

Yours is Carby correct???

[NissanGQ4.2]

Forgot about this thread:http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?14773-Auto-Shifting-Issues-shifting-way-too-low-wont-kick-overdrive

Check post # 13 from me, that the location for EFI, I assume the carby one looks the same and would be located somewhere near the carby.

Maybe send Lucas a PM, just in case he misses this, his is carby and will tell you where it is located.

[ckh]

Yours is Carby correct???

Yes carby 89 model

[NissanGQ4.2]

can you post a pic of what I'm looking for?

Here you go, red arrow points to TPS

Located in the EC-23 ( Page 23 )

24186

[nissannewby]

I'm pretty sure there should be a fair chunk of thanks given to NissanGQ4.2 for the effort he is putting into this for you. Make sure you appreciate what is being done for you or people won't be so keen to help in the future.

[ckh]

ok before it goes for a diagnostic on thursday with the tranny guy, 2 mates of mine who have a long history say its the hydrolic fluid i used... and to try something different that is known to work with a GQ transmission, the ATF fluid I put in is castrol ATF dex3 says on bottle for older jap transmissions, I cant afford the transmax stuff to test and find out I'm wrong, but if I can change the fliud and my lockup starts working again it would have paid for its self as the tranny guy wants 100-150 to do the diagnostics on it... if it fixes the lock up i will worry about getting a proper service done on it in a month or two, Can people tell my what they are running in their tranny's barnd and cost etc please.
I can get a 20 ltr drum of pentrite dex 3 from repco, does any one use that?

[NissanGQ4.2]

Do you still have the bottle and can you take a picture for me please, I can't find castrol ATF dex3 on there website

[NissanGQ4.2]

Really can't see it been the oil anyway even without info on the catrol dex 3,

If it stopped locking up straight after the oil change I would rule out the oil straight away. Yeh it it stopped working 2-3 months down the track then maybe the oil.

Also how much is the 20ltr drum from repco going to cost you, might pay 100 bucks for oil only to find it still does not work.

Better to pay for the diagnostics IMO

[ckh]

Do you still have the bottle and can you take a picture for me please, I can't find castrol ATF dex3 on there website


pics you requested

[ckh]

Do you still have the bottle and can you take a picture for me please, I can't find castrol ATF dex3 on there website

http://www.msds.castrol.com.au/msds.aspx?msdsno=467172-AU07

[NissanGQ4.2]

I don't see a problem with using the Catrol Dex III. I would eliminate that from being the cause of the problem.

Let us know how you get on Thursday with the diagnostics

Cheers

Todd

[NissanGQ4.2]

Also if you have not done so already have a read of this thread: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?17105-Torque-converter-strange-fault

[ckh]

Also if you have not done so already have a read of this thread: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?17105-Torque-converter-strange-fault

Cheers mate, interesting read, will let the tranny guy do his testing tomorrow and if he says its the same problem, I'll source a second hand one also and see if that fixes it.. but the fact the lock tries to lock up the once then quites, it does sound like as people are telling me that the converter its self is buggered.. will post outcome tomorrow arvo...

[taslucas]

Cheers mate, interesting read, will let the tranny guy do his testing tomorrow and if he says its the same problem, I'll source a second hand one also and see if that fixes it.. but the fact the lock tries to lock up the once then quites, it does sound like as people are telling me that the converter its self is buggered.. will post outcome tomorrow arvo...

My torque converter was stuffed and while testing I was told that one of the signs is the lock up engaging and disengaging rapidly.

Tap, crackle, pop

[NissanGQ4.2]

Cheers mate, interesting read, will let the tranny guy do his testing tomorrow and if he says its the same problem, I'll source a second hand one also and see if that fixes it.. but the fact the lock tries to lock up the once then quites, it does sound like as people are telling me that the converter its self is buggered.. will post outcome tomorrow arvo...

Yes very possible its the TC, but unfortunately is a matter of elimination, that's why there is a list of tests to work through first, If tests 1-8 pass then yes TC has probably sh!t itself.

[ckh]

My torque converter was stuffed and while testing I was told that one of the signs is the lock up engaging and disengaging rapidly.

Tap, crackle, pop

just called tranny guy for an update, he is stumped at the moment and saying its pointing towards an electrical problem due to the converter trying to lock up pnce then not again until the engine is turned off and restarted effectivly rebooting the system!!!!!! he says he will have a better answer for me later this afternoon..

[taslucas]

Yeah they are a pain in the rrrrs. I was thinking that it looks electrical because it's only trying to engage once and not on/off, on/off. But having said that, mine was doing that and it kept doing it after a TC rebuild. Have a read through my thread. It'll be in the gearbox section. If it's electrical, take a deep breath and get ready!!!

Tap, crackle, pop

[ckh]

Yeah they are a pain in the rrrrs. I was thinking that it looks electrical because it's only trying to engage once and not on/off, on/off. But having said that, mine was doing that and it kept doing it after a TC rebuild. Have a read through my thread. It'll be in the gearbox section. If it's electrical, take a deep breath and get ready!!!

Tap, crackle, pop

Why take a deep breath and get ready? get ready for what?

Cant find that thread you mention

[taslucas]

Why take a deep breath and get ready? get ready for what?

Cant find that thread you mention

I was just meaning that if it's electrical it might take a bit to get to the bottom of it. I was chasing the fault with mine for months. It did my head in! I ended up spending a lot of money in the process.
I hope yours is an easy fix:-)

Tap, crackle, pop

[taslucas]

The thread is called "TB42 auto box electricals" in the gearbox section of mechanical.


Tap, crackle, pop

[ckh]

The thread is called "TB42 auto box electricals" in the gearbox section of mechanical.


Tap, crackle, pop
ok read your thread, but didnt see what the fix was?

[taslucas]

ok read your thread, but didnt see what the fix was?

Exactly! Lol. I did all that and still wasn't fixed then one-day it went away!? To this day it hasn't done it. It well and truly did my head in. I've got no idea what caused it and why it went away.

Tap, crackle, pop

[ckh]

just picked it up tranny guy says its an electrical problem although I dont think he put too much work into diagnosing it, he recons it locked up for him once when he took it for a test drive, so his arguement is that something is telling the tcu input side not to lock up, am going to try a manual lockup on output side, he said if that works, tranny and converter are fine and then to lookinto what component is failing, am also looking at putting a different fluid in it, as the castrol dex 3 is very watery

[Alitis007]

Firstly, Nulon auto trans treatment doesn't harm or make anything "slippery" it just softens seals, i have used it in my own and customers cars for over 10 years without a hassle.
Secondly, the "Self diagnostic test" needs to been done after a proper drive say 30 or 40 mins, so the auto fluid and engine components warm up properly and if you mess a step you wont get the code to flash. In my fault diagnosis i was driving my trol constantly to test the TCM coz if i stuffed 1 step i wouldn't get the correct reading from it.
And lastly does your car have cruse control? See if that makes a difference.

[Alitis007]

am also looking at putting a different fluid in it, as the castrol dex 3 is very watery
Never heard of that ever in my life.
Also earlier in your thread you said you found some stuff on the magnet in the sump, that would be clutch and band material.

Your TPS should be very close to the throttle linkage if not on the same shaft as the accelerator cable, try turning that to its extremes and test the change in shift patterns and see if the converter locks up as said before.

[ckh]

Firstly, Nulon auto trans treatment doesn't harm or make anything "slippery" it just softens seals, i have used it in my own and customers cars for over 10 years without a hassle.
Secondly, the "Self diagnostic test" needs to been done after a proper drive say 30 or 40 mins, so the auto fluid and engine components warm up properly and if you mess a step you wont get the code to flash. In my fault diagnosis i was driving my trol constantly to test the TCM coz if i stuffed 1 step i wouldn't get the correct reading from it.
And lastly does your car have cruse control? See if that makes a difference.

no cruise control, and have done self diagnostics after driving as you said get all passes

[ckh]

Never heard of that ever in my life.
Also earlier in your thread you said you found some stuff on the magnet in the sump, that would be clutch and band material.

Your TPS should be very close to the throttle linkage if not on the same shaft as the accelerator cable, try turning that to its extremes and test the change in shift patterns and see if the converter locks up as said before.

on castrols website there are seval different dexiii the one i put in was the cheapest available at super cheap, and it says on the bottle for automatic transmissions and power steering, and is very thin, compaired that to a bottle of pentite i had that had a little in it still laying about, and the penrite was still thin fluid but not as watery thin as what i put in, so am hoping that could be part of the cause...

[NissanGQ4.2]

no cruise control, and have done self diagnostics after driving as you said get all passes

You said earlier you did not test the TPS because you did not know where it was located. So have you tested it know???

[NissanGQ4.2]

on castrols website there are seval different dexiii the one i put in was the cheapest available at super cheap, and it says on the bottle for automatic transmissions and power steering, and is very thin, compaired that to a bottle of pentite i had that had a little in it still laying about, and the penrite was still thin fluid but not as watery thin as what i put in, so am hoping that could be part of the cause...

I believe you could use vegetable oil and your TC would still lock up, would eventually fail but not straight away

[ckh]

I believe you could use vegetable oil and your TC would still lock up, would eventually fail but not straight away

even vegetable oils is thicker than the stuff I put in

[ckh]

even vegetable oils is thicker than the stuff I put in

i do not want to throw my money away putting that transmax z 'expensive stuff in, am debating weather to put genuine nissan oild in or penrite, both which are rated for auto transmissions, not auto transmissions and power steering as with the castrol cheap stuff i put in...

[taslucas]

After I had the heavy duty valvebody fitted it was recommended to me to have the top of the range fluid used. Can't remember what brand but it was about $37 per litre! Then the seal went on the reco TC and I lost all that fluid on the road! Luckily the TC fault and new fluid was fixed under warranty.

Tap, crackle, pop

[Alitis007]

on castrols website there are seval different dexiii the one i put in was the cheapest available at super cheap, and it says on the bottle for automatic transmissions and power steering, and is very thin, compaired that to a bottle of pentite i had that had a little in it still laying about, and the penrite was still thin fluid but not as watery thin as what i put in, so am hoping that could be part of the cause...

Oil has a viscosity, if its thicker or thinner it will be called something else with engine oils and trans/steering oil but with trans oils the difference between Dextron II and Dextron III are the additives that are used in it. If the oil is too thin like your saying your auto will be slipping every gear change and the band would have been chewed up by now. Your over looking something if we lived closer i would come round n give you a hand but i'm in vic and your in qld yeh??

[ckh]

Oil has a viscosity, if its thicker or thinner it will be called something else with engine oils and trans/steering oil but with trans oils the difference between Dextron II and Dextron III are the additives that are used in it. If the oil is too thin like your saying your auto will be slipping every gear change and the band would have been chewed up by now. Your over looking something if we lived closer i would come round n give you a hand but i'm in vic and your in qld yeh??

appreicate the offer though :) thank you. everything else checks out fine, its only the lock up not working, its just so coincidencial that all my problems started when i put this castrol oil in, prior to that everthing was fine...

[lhurley]

appreicate the offer though :) thank you. everything else checks out fine, its only the lock up not working, its just so coincidencial that all my problems started when i put this castrol oil in, prior to that everthing was fine...

Im not saying that the castrol has done something to harm your auto, but due to the fact that when you change the oil you only change about 45% of the oil, its unlikely that it was that. Plus it takes some time for the new oil to work its way through and actually have a noticeable effect.

Why did the mech not look into the elec?? I know if i told my guy that my tc wasnt locking up he would do everything he can to work out whats going on. Where did you take it? if you dont mind me asking?

[NissanGQ4.2]

everything else checks out fine, its only the lock up not working

So you have checked the TPS then???

[ckh]

So you have checked the TPS then???

yes with multi meter

[ckh]

Oil has a viscosity, if its thicker or thinner it will be called something else with engine oils and trans/steering oil but with trans oils the difference between Dextron II and Dextron III are the additives that are used in it. If the oil is too thin like your saying your auto will be slipping every gear change and the band would have been chewed up by now. Your over looking something if we lived closer i would come round n give you a hand but i'm in vic and your in qld yeh??
must be slippage then, as oil smells a little burnt and slight brown tint to it when I drpped it boxing day to put new filter on, already bought some valvoline max life, says on bottle replacement for nissan matic d, and bought a switch if i need to do manual lock up

[ckh]

Another guy has suggested to me to run a 12v feed with a switch to the wire that activates the lock up solinoid on the tranny, my question is Will running power to that wire damage the TCU at all?

[NissanGQ4.2]

Another guy has suggested to me to run a 12v feed with a switch to the wire that activates the lock up solinoid on the tranny, my question is Will running power to that wire damage the TCU at all?

I'm having a wild guess that feeding the lock up solenoid 12V will more than likely destroy your lock up solenoid if know type of resistor is used.

PM Rodney ( Yendor ) just in case he misses your question

[ckh]

Im not saying that the castrol has done something to harm your auto, but due to the fact that when you change the oil you only change about 45% of the oil, its unlikely that it was that. Plus it takes some time for the new oil to work its way through and actually have a noticeable effect.

Why did the mech not look into the elec?? I know if i told my guy that my tc wasnt locking up he would do everything he can to work out whats going on. Where did you take it? if you dont mind me asking?

Ipswich Auto Transmissions

[ckh]

Ok changed oil, made no difference, pulled kick panel off to get to TCU, found wire feeding solinoid, put a test light on it, started car up and went for a drive, test light was showig some current but not 12V as the light was barely glowing and at around 90ish the light comes bright on for about 5-10 seconds, then goes out back to being a dull glow, and doesnt try locking up again until motor has been turned off and back on again, each time around the same speed lights up bright for 5-10 sec's then goes out, for those who want to say I told you so about the oil, please dont, The first few times after the oil change could feel the shudder, now gear changes are real smooth and little to no shudder when trying to lock up.

[lhurley]

If funds permit mate, i would look into a 2nd opinion. I got recommended 'The Transmission Center' at Underwood by Wholesale Autos, and have been really happy with them so far, nothing is to much of a hassle. Even call them up and tell them what youve done and see what they say.

If the gear changes are to smooth, the clutches are actually slipping. The change should be smooth but firm, just noticeable

[Alitis007]

Do you have a mate or family member with a trol like yours? If you do, see if you can borrow their TPS and see if that makes any difference. Just mark the position of the 2 7mm bolts to put back afterwards. It might sound a little far fetched but you don't have anything to loose yeh?

[ckh]

Got a mate who will have TPS available to me soon,, just got off the phone to him, all this stress gave me a heart attack last tuesday, so have backed off the stress button, cant afford to be laying in a hospital bed

[ckh]

shudder is still there when trying to lock up, a guy on another forum is 100% sure its my converter.... any more suggestions before I start spend $$$$ on it

[NissanGQ4.2]

shudder is still there when trying to lock up, a guy on another forum is 100% sure its my converter.... any more suggestions before I start spend $$$$ on it

yep....................spend the $$$ on it. If you have done all the other test and it has passed then yes the guy on the "other forum" is more than likely 100% correct in saying its your TC.

Even if its just the TC, while its apart you might as well spend the extra $$$ and fix up the rest of the box. You could easy just replace the TC put it all back together and find one of the clutch packs decides to fail and then you will be going through the cost of pulling it all out again.

Cheers

Todd

[Alitis007]

So you tried the TPS?? If you did its unfortunate that the converter let go! You could try another TCM but i think you might be wasting your time with that.

[ckh]

Quote:
Originally Posted by mavers
Might be worth giving the guys a call from wholesale automatics, they are very helpful but might want you to buy something. They do sell the lock up switch kits, might be worth buying one of those to get you out of trouble for the time being? Piss easy to install, I got my auto leccy to do it while I was getting some other work done.
I called them they said to cut the wire near the auto computer and put a 12V feed to the solenoid wire, that way I wont stuff the computer, wired it up and took it for a drive, when turned the switch on it shuddered though every gear, and when left locked if I came to a stop it didnt stall, Spoke to another guy at "the transmission center" at underwood, he said the converter was shot, and when I changed the oil in december, he said although it may have been working then the "fresh" oild pushed it over the edge, he said it would have eventually happened if I hadnt touched the oil, he took it for a test drive today, and could feel the shudder, but he said he thought it would have tried a few times to lock up before going into what he called "safe mode' dropped truck off to him this arvo and hopefully will will have it back thursday or friday... I've read on the net, that their are heaps of people who's converters will try and lock up once and not again until engine turned off and back on, even some people say they get lock up but thren it drops out and wont lock again until everything shut off and turned on again then will do it only once then no further tries at lock up, @ 90ish I can see the tacho go down to 2200 RMP, shudder for a few sedconds then tacho goes up to 2400ish, the guy at this transmission center said the computer see's the speed at the transmission isnt registering lock to.. he said my shudder is like when a disc brake has been over heated and warps, when you put your foot on the brake you get a shudder, he's betting same deal with the plate or at least the lining of the plate in the converter is what the shudder is I feel.. so hopefully spending this 1200ish will fix my problems...

[ckh]

Turned out to be a O ring in the converter alowing oil pressure to blow past,
not locks up but between 85-95 intermitently unlocks for a fraction of a second, Yesterday when I took it back to the transmission center, he asked me to wire up a test light to the solinoid wire, can confirm that when the tacho jumps, the light on the solinoid wire flickers..

cant get transmission to go into diagnosic mode, power light stays on, no codes

manual it say if the power light stay on and doesnt go though the test its either Inhibitor switch, power shift switch, kick down switch idle switch or the A/T controler is damaged.
1. Inhibitor switch must be working as I can only start the car when in park or neutral.
2. power shift switch is working as when triving if I hit the power switch, it drops down to 3rd, when I turn switch of it will go into 4th and then converter lockup if doing over 85
3 kick down switch is working as if I press accelerator hard it unlocks converter and kicks down a gear, or if driving slowly will drop down a gear, if going really slow and hit the pedal, it kicks down and the power light comes on.
4 idle switch dont know how to check this one
5. A/T controler is damaged. cant test this either as dont have a spare A/T controler at the moment but may be aquiring on in a few weeks.

The tranny guy adjusted my TPS but I noticed today when trying to do self diagnostic's the second I tyrn the key to "on" I could hear a buzzing type sound, climbed under the car and could hear it was coming from inside transmission, disconnecting wiring loom near battery "brown plug" stopped the buzzing..
Adjust TPS back to its origional position and when turn key to on, no buzzing, any one have any idea what would be buzzing in side the tranny. I'm going to call the tranny guy on monday to see what he says.

Also regarding converter unlocking for a split second, only does it between 85-95ish, if I sit on 100 or more, it doesnt flicker the test light, or the tacho, might cut the solinoid wire again tomorrow and run 12V to it via a switch, and see if that stops the intermitent unlock by bypassing the computer all together.
But when I try to do diagnostics, still get same result power like just stays solid, pre him putting the new converter in could do self diagnostics time after time... so something has happended when he has had the tranny out..... I'm open to suggestions to try, and or to give me more questions to throw at him on monday..

[NissanGQ4.2]

This thread is now closed, any replies to this thread can be now be posted in the below thread

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?18169-Cant-get-auto-transmission-in-89-GQ-auto-to-go-into-diagnostic-mode.

Cheers

Todd