Which type of radiator!

[PMC]

G'day folks,

I am seeking your opinions on which type of radiator best suits;

(a) A stock standard GU 4.2 factory turbo diesel non-towing vehicle, (with bull-bar/basic accessories)

(b) A stock standard GU 4.2 factory turbo diesel used for towing, (with bull-bar/basic accessories)

(c) A modified GU 4.2 after-market turbo up-grade non-towing vehicle, (with bull-bar/basic
accessories)

(d) A modified GU 4.2 after-market turbo up-grade used for towing (with bull-bar/basic
accessories)

(e) A modified GU 4.2 turbo diesel with after-market turbo up-grade, aftermarket intercooler, towing
vehicle, (with bull-bar, winch, roof-rack, side-bars & rails, driving lights, fridge, storage drawers
all the bells and whistles etc )

Please take into count the following parameters;

1. Aluminum vs Copper

2. H/duty vs factory standard

3. Chinese vs Australian made!

4. Finally, what radiator do you think is the best value for money

Let the debate, begin!

Regards,

RLI
:sterb003:

[Ian Carruthers]

RLI what you havent mentioned is what conditions you will be driving in! I.E. mainly open road hi speed or mainly dust road or mainly off road?

Without knowing that, I would go for 3 row (16 fins per inch) clean road driving or 4 row 14 Fins per inch off road driving. This however is in "Pack core design" (zigzag) modern trend.
alternativly you can also get "D Type" (straight fin) "German" (straight fin) & "English" designs (straight fin) Not sure what you have available over there, your radiator manufactures can best advise you on this. You cant get a radiator that suits all conditions. My competion vehicle had a 4 row core with English tube design much like construction vehicles have, they are easier to clean externally due to the tubes being wide apart & fins being straight howeve the more fins you have increases the cooling efficency greatly more so than an extra row of tubes in many cases. Hope this makes sence and not confused the issue more. At the end of the day go bigger where you can as your theromostat will take care of the rest.
I 100% preffer copper as it's more easily repareable & modifyable. NEVER skimp on your radiator it's the heart of your engine and perhaps one of the most missunderstood/abused components. Always use coolant and never mix two coolants if you have access to it, after a water flush, fill your radiator with demineralised or distilled water.

Ian C

[nissannewby]

The standard one is just fine and if its still working accordingly I wouldnt change it. My standard radiator handles the extra boost/fuel etc and towing a 2.5t trailer easily enough. Apart from the plastic tanks going brittle over time the are just as good as any aftermarket one. I have a plastic tanked radiator in both my patrols and the GQ is now 14yrs old and it still does what it suppose to.

If you are after an aftermarket unit then copper is tough and reliable and probably easier to try and fix on the side of the road. Aluminium are also good but you need to pay attention to mounting, making sure your mounts and rubbers are all in good condition and you will get a trouble free run out of these as well.

As for pricing wise talk to NatRad or AdRad. They are based is oz and are well priced, last time I looked the prices sat nicely between the cheap ones you see on ebay and the full on PWR alloy units.

[PMC]

RLI what you havent mentioned is what conditions you will be driving in! I.E. mainly open road hi speed or mainly dust road or mainly off road?

Without knowing that, I would go for 3 row (16 fins per inch) clean road driving or 4 row 14 Fins per inch off road driving. This however is in "Pack core design" (zigzag) modern trend.
alternativly you can also get "D Type" (straight fin) "German" (straight fin) & "English" designs (straight fin) Not sure what you have available over there, your radiator manufactures can best advise you on this. You cant get a radiator that suits all conditions. My competion vehicle had a 4 row core with English tube design much like construction vehicles have, they are easier to clean externally due to the tubes being wide apart & fins being straight howeve the more fins you have increases the cooling efficency greatly more so than an extra row of tubes in many cases. Hope this makes sence and not confused the issue more. At the end of the day go bigger where you can as your theromostat will take care of the rest.
I 100% preffer copper as it's more easily repareable & modifyable. NEVER skimp on your radiator it's the heart of your engine and perhaps one of the most missunderstood/abused components. Always use coolant and never mix two coolants if you have access to it, after a water flush, fill your radiator with demineralised or distilled water.

Ian C

G' day Ian,

Well said mate! Folks also take into count Ian's recommendations also.

Regards,

RLI

[PMC]

The standard one is just fine and if its still working accordingly I wouldnt change it. My standard radiator handles the extra boost/fuel etc and towing a 2.5t trailer easily enough. Apart from the plastic tanks going brittle over time the are just as good as any aftermarket one. I have a plastic tanked radiator in both my patrols and the GQ is now 14yrs old and it still does what it suppose to.

If you are after an aftermarket unit then copper is tough and reliable and probably easier to try and fix on the side of the road. Aluminium are also good but you need to pay attention to mounting, making sure your mounts and rubbers are all in good condition and you will get a trouble free run out of these as well.

As for pricing wise talk to NatRad or AdRad. They are based is oz and are well priced, last time I looked the prices sat nicely between the cheap ones you see on ebay and the full on PWR alloy units.

Once again nissannewby!

Thanks for the great info. Folks keep your opinions coming!

Regards,

RLI

[PMC]

G'day Trendsetters!

After ringing seven Radiator specialists over the last week. The overwhelming advice was to purchase a H/duty 3 core copper/brass radiator. The reason was if you want longevity go copper/brass. If you want the flash look go Aluminum.

They further advised that one of the main problems with the GU Patrols was that the air-con condensers help restrict the airflow when dust and mud enter via the front grill. Even worse if you have large driving lights obstruction the air flow.

Five of the specialists advised me that they regularly take out GU Patrol radiators to externally clean them out. They advised that the amount of dust and crap that come out of these radiators is quite amazing. They also advised that Patrol owners should get there radiators cleaned externally at least every two years. Especially if you travel a lot along dirt/gravel roads!

I have just purchased one from from National Auto Parts.

PS, I will post up pics on my RLI Patrol re-build thread, in the members ride section soon!

Regards,

RLI

[PMC]

G'day folks,

The cost of the H/duty three core radiator for a 4.2TD GU is $550.00 delivered!

PS, check out there website National Auto Parts. If you phone them? ask to speak to David, he is the mechanic!

Regards,

RLI

[PMC]

G'day Trendsetters,

Mat (nissannewby) and I fitted the new triple core radiator to the Patrol.

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u434/RLI1/IMG_1405.jpg

So far so good, the new triple core radiator is running between 20 and 30 Celsius cooler than the original factor 2 core radiator under-load. Climbing hills under-load, she is operating at 180c compared to the factory one operating at between 200 and 210. At cruising speed at 100ks she is operating at between 150 and 160c.

PS, 7 months and counting to Cape York August 2013.

Regards,

RLI

[threedogs]

Has anyone tried backhoe and/or such coolant or is it too volatile?
RLI do you have water temp guage fitted????????????

[PMC]

Has anyone tried backhoe and/or such coolant or is it too volatile?
RLI do you have water temp guage fitted????????????

G'evening mate,

I have not tried backhoe. I use Nulon long life coolant! I have an Auto-meter water temp gauge fitted!

Over the years when i was involved with Racing, i also ran Amp's, Oil Pressure, Oil temp, Volt's and Water temp gauges. When i got involved with 4x4's especially turbo's, i have ran, Boost, EGT, Oil Pressure, Transmission temp and Water temp gauges.

PS, I am typical old school, i like to know what is going on with my drive-line!

Regards,

RLI

[PMC]

G'day folks,

I got my radiator from ebay@nationwideautoparts.com.au They are located in following three states;

QLD , SLACKS CREEK, 07 3107 1689, MON-FRI

VIC, RINGWOOD, 03 9016 7849, OPEN 7 DAYS,

WA, BAYSWATER, 08 6555 3925 MON – FRI,

PS, with 2 YEAR MANUFACTURER WARRANTY ON ALL RADIATORS SOLD

Regards,

RLI

[Mariani]

Hello guys, my first post. I'm having dramas with my td42 getting hot cruising at 100. I'm in Karratha WA so the average weather temp when driving is around 40c. Egt's run at around 400c (Pre turbo sensor)
I have replaced thermostat, water pump, fan hub, fan and drive belts. In that process the coolant has been dropped two or three times but I'm still having the same issue. Anyone had similar dramas?
Im guessing my drama is the rad and am really wanting a reliable supplier with top quality radiators available (brass/copper)
For further info on running.. 3"exhaust, 12p boost timing was adjusted to suit by bullet diesel Qld, Deno was done too