What to keep my eye on? Preventative Maintenance

[benno_84]

Hi guys,

I thought it might be good to start a thread about what things to keep an eye on in terms of vehicle maintenance in order to prevent problems.

I know that many of the contributors here are seasoned mechanics or Nissan Owners but for those of us who are new to the game there is just so much to learn.....

I have recently purchase a 1998 GU 4.2TD with 350 K on the clock. This is my first 4wd and so I am learning as I go. What I am keen to learn is what things I need to keep my eyes on in order to prevent major problems.

I would greatly appreciate those of you with experience if you could contribute to this thread and just list some things to check or look out for.

I know the obvious things - clean oil, keep her cool, clean air but there are a million other things which can go wrong if left un-checked. Also if anyone has any links or resources which might help me to get my head around the vehicle and keep her in good nick.

Thanks :wink:

Lloyd

[YNOT]

There is a lot of information to put in here so this post/thread will keep growing over time, I'll add photos as I can.

This is by no means a complete or definitive guide, my aim is to give people some basic things to look for as well as some general information about Nissan Patrols. This information primarily applies to GQ/GU (Y60/Y61) Patrols as they are the most common models and the only models I have direct experience with. If you have any questions however silly they may seem, please feel free to ask. PM me you phone number if you want to talk to me directly, I don't mind helping people.

Don't be put off by the amount of text, I'm trying to help people understand their cars, not just check this check that.


ENGINE

OIL LEAKS; Patrol engines in general are not prone to leaking lots of oil, but it does still happen. Finding the exact source of an oil leak is not always easy. If you do a lot of mud driving then don't be surprised if your front crank seal starts leaking. This is one of the easier leaks to diagnose, oil will leak down the front of the sump and in most cases be thrown out from the crank pulley.
Oil leaking around the rear of the sump is usually coming from the rear main (rear crank seal), check carefully in both cases to make sure it's not coming from higher up.
Oil pressure sender units have been known to fail and leak oil.
If an oil leak or combination of leaks is bad enough the whole engine could end up covered in oil making it nearly impossible to find the source of the leaks. The best thing to do in those cases is to degrease the whole engine, then go for a drive and recheck for leaks.

HEAD GASKETS; The head gasket is the gasket fitted between the cylinder head and the engine block. Head gasket failure can show in a number of ways. External oil or coolant leaks will show below the cylinder head, coolant leaks will generally show as a white or pale green stain down the side of the engine block. Internal leaks are more difficult to diagnose, but as this thread is concentrating on preventative maintenance I won't go into the diagnosis here.
The one suggestion I will make is to always look at the underside of your oil filler cap every time you take the cap off. If you see a milky brown paste under the cap, it's usually a good indication that coolant is leaking into the lubrication system, usually from a blown head gasket. Depending on the severity of the leak you may also find the same milky paste under the radiator cap and/or on the dip stick.

WELCH/FREEZE PLUGS; Welch plugs are the pressed steel plugs pressed into the side and sometimes rear of the engine block. Because they are made of pressed steel they are susceptible to corrosion if correct coolant levels are not maintained. Check each of the welch plugs carefully for signs of rust or coolant stains.

OIL COOLER; TD42 diesel engines are fitted with an engine oil cooler bolted to the engine block on the intake side. The oil cooler forms part of the engine cooling system and is therefore also subject to corrosion if correct coolant levels are not maintained. Leaks may be external as a coolant stain down the intake side of the block, or internal and mix engine oil with coolant. Oil cooler failure will present similar symptoms to a head gasket. Look for coolant stain down the intake side of the engine block, milky brown paste under the oil filler cap and/or radiator cap, and on the dip stick.
TB series petrol engines have a steel plate on the side of the engine block in the same position as the TD42's have the oil cooler. Look for rusting of the steel plate or coolant stains around it.

GENERAL INFORMATION;

TD42 oil filter changes;
GQ TD42 NA 2/88 to '97 uses Ryco Z115 (x2)
GU TD42NA 5/98 to '03 uses Ryco Z503 (x2)
GU TD42T 5/99 to '05 uses Ryco Z416 (x1) and Ryco Z503 (x1)

Please note, I use Ryco part numbers as an example only, use what ever brand oil filter you are comfortable with.


COOLING SYSTEM

RADIATOR; Check for blockages in the external fins. Remove the top radiator mounts and carefully push the radiator back. Look down between the radiator and A/C condensor as all sorts of rubbish can collect between the two and restrict air flow. It can be very hard to see with the radiator in the vehicle but also try to look for mud caked up in the fins. My brother cooked the engine in his Navara after going through a mud hole. The wet mud dries quickly when it hit the hot radiator and seriously reduces the cooling capacity of the radiator. Guess who got to replace that engine?
Another thing that's difficult to check for but worth doing, is checking the condition of the fins themselves. Lightly rub your fingers over the surface of the fins, if the fins start to disintegrate and fall out then it's time for a new radiator.

RADIATOR CAP; Without a proper pressure tester it's not possible to check the cap properly, but you can check the main rubber seal. Look for soft compliant rubber with no cracking or swelling. Given the low cost of radiator caps, if you're in any doubt about it's condition just replace it.

HOSES; Check hoses for swelling where they slip over the water pump, thermostat etc. Swelling at these points indicates corrosion on the aluminum housings. If the hose is swollen, replace it. I recommend replacing the corroded item as well, while you may get away with cleaning the corrosion off and fitting a new hose for a while, the corrosion almost always returns.
Squeeze the hoses, if they feel solid and make a cracking sound as you squeeze them then there is a calcified build up inside them and they need to be replaced.
Also, a hose may look and feel OK, but that does not always mean they are OK-I've been caught. The hose seemed fine when I serviced the car, but a few days later split open down the length of the hose. On closer inspection when you pushed your fingers into the hose from the outside, you could see cracks opening up inside the hose. If your in any doubt, or are planning a big trip and your hoses are more than 12 months old, replace them (all of them) and keep the old hoses for spares. Check the tension of the hose clamps (obviously this does not apply to the spring type hose clamps) a couple of times a year. When you replace hoses it is very important to recheck clamp tension a few days after you fitted the hoses, as the hoses will settle a bit after they've been heated and cooled a few times. [photo to be added later]

BELTS; Use a torch and have a very close look at your belts. Look for cracks appearing on the "V" side of the belt, pieces missing or frayed pieces. On a multi V belt the cracks may be very small. If your in any doubt or are planning a long trip, replace the belts, all of them. You might think that it does not matter if the A/C belt breaks, you can live without A/C for a while, but often when a belt breaks it will take out or damage the other more important belts. Broken belts can also lodge between the back of the crank pulley and the front of the engine, damaging the front crank seal. While the belts are off, give each idler pulley a spin listening for anything other than smooth quiet movement. Check belt tension about every month, just a quick push with your finger on the long span between pulleys. On a span of about 30cm you should have about 1cm movement. For engines with automatic tensioners check the tensioner for signs of wear.[photo to be added later]

WATER PUMP; Check the water pump shaft for vertical movement, for vehicles with an engine driven fan simply grab both sides of the fan and try to lift it up a few times, there should be no movement.
Use a torch and have a look at the water pump from underneath, look for a coolant stain or drips of coolant on the water pump housing. If you find shaft movement or leaks, replace the pump.

FAN; For vehicles with engine driven fans, look for cracking in the plastic around the centre of the fan, this is very common on Patrols. If it's cracked, replace it.

FAN HUB; For vehicles with engine driven fans, look for oil leaks from the fan hub. With the engine cold and stationary try to spin the fan by hand, it should stop within about a 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn. Start the engine, when you first start it and bring the revs up to about 1500rpm you should hear the fan roar for a while then go quiet. Keep the engine running and the revs at that point or there abouts. As the engine reaches full operating temperature you should hear the fan cycling, it will start to roar for 30 seconds to a minute then go quiet again. The on time of the fan will be extended on a hot day after a drive.

COOLANT; Without specialised tools the only way to judge coolant condition is by appearence. Rusty brown is bad, green,red, or blue is usually OK. This is only a guide, coolant should be replaced at or before manufactures recommendations and to specified concentration. Do not mix different types of coolant, if you are not sure what was in there previously, drain it, fill it with water (or coolant flush solution) run it until the engine is hot, and drain it again to flush out the old coolant. Some Nissan motors are fitted with an engine block coolant drain plug, where fitted they are usually at the back of the engine on the exhaust side [photo to be added later].

BLEEDING COOLING SYSTEMS; If you drain any coolant from your engine it is important to bleed all of the air out afterwards. Any air pockets that remain in the engine (which will be in the cylinder head) can potentially cause cracking of the cylinder head.
Bleed it by removing the radiator cap and letting the engine idle until the thermostat opens (when the coolant starts moving and the air the fan is pulling through the radiator suddenly gets warmer). Recheck coolant level after a few days.
Fuel injected 4.2 petrol (TB42E) have coolant bleed screws on top of the inlet manifold, be VERY careful as they have a habit of seizing into the aluminum and breaking off when you try to remove them. Because of this I now only bleed them as described above.

GENERAL INFORMATION;

STRAY CURRENT.


Tony

[YNOT]

DRIVE LINE;

DIFFERENTIALS; First thing to check is oil leaks (note: oil leaks may also be caused by blocked breathers, see third paragraph). Oil leaking from the front of the diff where the tail shaft attaches indicates a leaking pinion shaft seal. Oil leaking down the brake backing plates indicates a leaking inner axle seal. Patrol (coil spring models) wheel bearings are lubricated by grease, there is a seal (inner axle oil seal) inside the ends of the diff housing [photo to be added] that keeps the diff oil separate from the wheel bearings, when this seal leaks diff oil washes through the wheel bearings diluting the grease. So don't just replace the seal, clean and repack the wheel bearings. Don't try to remove the rear wheel bearings to repack the grease as the job requires specialized tools. Front wheel bearings should be cleaned and repacked with grease about every 40,000km, more frequently if you like deep water crossings. Front wheel bearing adjustment should be checked every service. Check by jacking under the front diff until the tyre is about an inch off the ground and supporting the diff on axle stands. Hold the tyre top and bottom, try to push the top of the tyre in while pulling the bottom of the tyre out then alternate back and forth, there should be very little movement.

Nissan Patrol diff housings (H233B diffs) have been known to crack. This usually occurs in the area on either side of the pumpkin [photo to be added], I have had a report of one diff the cracked along the top of the housing as well. The cracks normally appear first as an oil leak from these areas. In most cases the housings can be repaired by a qualified welder, though it probably pays to fit diff strengthening brackets (available from Superior engineering) if your housing needs to be repaired.

Check your diff breathers and breather hoses[photo to be added]. As the diffs warm up the air inside expands, breathers are fitted to allow this to vent. If the breathers become blocked the air will push out past the axle or pinion seals taking oil with it. Also be aware that when the diffs are hot and you suddenly plunge your vehicle into a deep river crossing, the diff can cool quickly and drawer air back in through the breathers. If the breathers are blocked or the hoses cracked or not fitted, water will be drawn into the diff. Water is not a lubricant so breathers play an important role. If you plan to do river crossings I suggest you invest in an extended diff breather kit.

Diff oil should be replaced about every 40,00 km, more frequently if you like deep water crossings. Always remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug. You don't want to find out the fill plug is jammed in AFTER you've drained the oil. If when you remove the fill plug you notice oil draining out the fill hole, either the oil has been over filled or there is water in the diff. When you do drain the oil, inspect the swarf magnet on the drain plug. It is normal to find fine iron filings on the magnet, but if you find chunks of metal you need to be asking questions. Look at the oil as it drains out, looking for water (water is a lot thinner than diff oil) or milkiness indicating water has mixed with the oil. Clean the fill and drain plugs before refitting, and it doesn't hurt to put a bit of sealant on the threads. When refilling diff oil, fill to the bottom of the fill plug with the car parked on a flat level surface.

WHEEL BEARING GREASE; HTB

DIFF OIL; front - 90w hypoid rated gear oil. Rear - 85w140 limited slip hypoid gear oil.

Front 5.4 litres, rear (LSD)2.1 litres (factory locker)3.0 litres,** H260 4.7 litres.
**H260 rear diff fitted to most manual GU 3l, 4.5l and 4.8l Patrols.

GENERAL INFORMATION;
GQ/GU (Y60/Y61) H233b differentials are different, GU diffs are approximately 40mm longer and GU front CV joints are are lot stronger. Rear diffs are a straight bolt in swap. Front diffs also bolt straight in but require a longer drag link. Refer to general information in the steering section below for more information on drag links.
H260 rear diffs bolt straight in but MAY require a different tail shaft. I've never swapped a H233b for a H260 so I don't know for sure. H260 diffs are stronger than H233b but getting lockers is more expensive.



GEARBOX; Not so much to look out for here, both of the manual gearboxes fitted to GQ/GU (Y60 and Y61) Patrols are very robust and reliable. RB30 and RD28 engined Patrols got a smaller (alloy case) box than the rest.
On both gearboxes check the rubber boot around the base of the gear lever directly on top of the box. This boot has a habit of splitting or perishing, allowing contaminants to enter the internals of the box. Unless you have a body lift this rubber boot is going to take a bit of work to check - nothing difficult. My advice, if you're going to the trouble of checking it, go down to Nissan before hand and get a new boot. They're cheap and readily available, and replacing it only takes a few minutes more than checking it. If you have a gear oil smell coming into the cabin this is the first place I would look.
To check or replace remove both front seats, both gear knobs and center console. Remove the front carpet. You will now see a plate bolted to the floor surrounding the gear levers. Remove this plate and you will be able to see the boot at the base of the main gear lever.

Listen for gearbox noise, it's usually the first indication of gearbox problems. Some noises can be heard while driving, others you can hear while stationary. There's too many different noises to go into here so if you have a gearbox noise, make a note of when and where it happens and start a new thread. We can help you diagnose it from there.

Early GU Patrols (excluding RD28) had a weakness in the fifth gear splines. Nissan released some update parts to rectify the fault but there is no external way to determine if you have the update parts.
The 5 photos below show 5th gear parts.


Gearbox oil should be replaced about every 40,00 km, more frequently if you like deep water crossings or do a lot of 4WDing. Always remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug. You don't want to find out the fill plug is jammed in AFTER you've drained the oil. If when you remove the fill plug you notice oil draining out the fill hole, either the oil has been over filled or there is water in the diff. When you do drain the oil, inspect the swarf magnet on the drain plug. It is normal to find fine iron filings on the magnet, but if you find chunks of metal you need to be asking questions. Look at the oil as it drains out, looking for water (water is a lot thinner than gearbox oil) or milkiness indicating water has mixed with the oil. Clean the fill and drain plugs before refitting, and it doesn't hurt to put a bit of sealant on the threads. When refilling gearbox oil, fill to the bottom of the fill plug with the car parked on a flat level surface.

Check gearbox breathers as described in the third paragraph of diff section.

GEARBOX OIL; 80w90 gear oil

3.9 litres for big G/box, 3.6 litres for RB30 and RD28.




TRANSFER CASE; Not much goes wrong with Patrol transfer cases, they can take a huge amount of punishment (and horsepower) and rarely fail. The transfer case is the same across GQ/GU models regardless of engine or gearbox. Low range ratio is 2.02:1. Not a particularly low reduction with low first being the only gear lower than first high, but aftermarket reduction gears are readily available in a variety of ratio's.
Except for GU 4.8l, GQ/GU Patrols are fitted with a transfer case mounted drum handbrake with very strong holding ability. The handbrake (on the rear of the TF case) can be adjusted easily by removing a rubber bung from the drum, moving the drum so the hole is in the 6 o'clock position, and using a screw driver through the hole to move the adjuster.

Transfer case oil should be replaced about every 40,00 km, more frequently if you like deep water crossings or do a lot of 4WDing. Always remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug. You don't want to find out the fill plug is jammed in AFTER you've drained the oil. If when you remove the fill plug you notice oil draining out the fill hole, either the oil has been over filled or there is water in the diff. When you do drain the oil, inspect the swarf magnet on the drain plug. It is normal to find fine iron filings on the magnet, but if you find chunks of metal you need to be asking questions. Look at the oil as it drains out, looking for water (water is a lot thinner than transfer case oil) or milkiness indicating water has mixed with the oil. Clean the fill and drain plugs before refitting, and it doesn't hurt to put a bit of sealant on the threads. When refilling transfer case oil, fill to the bottom of the fill plug with the car parked on a flat level surface.

Check transfer case breathers as described in the third paragraph of diff section.

TRANSFER CASE OIL; 80w90 gear oil 2.2 litres


CLUTCH; Not much can be checked here and unfortunately Patrol clutches give very little warning they are about to fail. I've heard one story from a club member who after spending all week end driving around a 4WD park, packed up and left all without a problem. They pulled up to pay a toll, and had no drive when they went to pull out. It's not the first time I've heard of that happening.

AUTO TRANS; Again not much can be checked. Oil level obviously, and condition. Look at the color of oil on the dip stick, it should be a deep red color. If it's very dark going on black, and smells burnt, the transmission is not going to last much longer.
While driving feel for smooth consistent gear shifts. There shouldn't be any slipping or flaring (engine revs rising during up shifts). Also feel for torque converter lock up shudder. At speeds over about 80km/h a lock up clutch in the torque converter engages to eliminate all converter slip, this feels a bit like it's engaging 5th gear and the tacho will drop about 400rpm. Shuddering during this engagement is common on auto Patrols and usually requires a new torque converter. You can keep driving (the shuddering is only during the engagement, once it's engaged fully it drives normally) with this condition, but the risk is that lock up clutch material from the worn linings can be circulated through the rest of the transmission by the fluid and do more expensive damage.

If you do any towing or 4WDing then fitting a BIG transmission cooler is mandatory. The biggest killer of automatic gearboxes is overheated transmission fluid. Fitting a sump guard under the transmission pan is also a good idea.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID; Nissan Matic D 8.5 litres

Tony

[YNOT]

**BRAKES AND STEERING ARE CRITICAL SAFETY SYSTEMS DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SERVICE THESE SYSTEMS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING**

BRAKES; The vast majority of GQ/GU Patrols (and Mavericks) were fitted with 4 wheel disc brakes, only a few early base models had drum rear.

BRAKE PADS; Check brake pads every service, the minimum brake pad thickness you want to see is 2.5mm anywhere on any of the pads, they don't always wear evenly so check carefully. Some brake pads are fitted with a small metal tag that is designed to come in contact with the disc rotar as the pad wears down to minimum thickness. When the tag touches the disc it makes a very irritating squeal. So if you hear a loud squeal start emminating from your brakes, DON'T IGNORE IT, it may be your brake pads warning you they need to be replaced soon. My personal preference for brake pads is Bendix 4WD pads.
Uneven brake pad wear is often caused by sticking brake calliper slides. These slides allow the calliper to 'float' over the disc and self centre. When the slides stick the calliper can not move freely and uneven pad wear is the result. You will need to remove the brake calliper to check the slides properly.

BRAKE DISC ROTARS; Brake disc rotars are also subject to wear and have minimum thickness specifications that must be adhered to. Specifications vary by model and I'll try to track down the specs. Accurately checking the thickness requires special calipers, but as a general rule if the rotars have a reasonable size lip around the outside and generally look worn, it's probably time to either get them professionally inspected or just replace them. If the rotars are above minimum thickness it's a good idea to get them machined when ever you replace the pads.

BRAKE FLUID; Brake fluid is a hygroscopic hydraulic fluid. Hygroscopic means it absorbs water, which is important in an automotive braking system. The downside is that once the moisture content of brake fluid reaches 4% there is a serious risk of the water that has been absorbed by the fluid turning to steam if the brakes get hot enough (as they do on long descents). Steam is compressible and the result is the brake pedal going to the floor and a loss of brakes. This is why brake fluid MUST BE REPLACED EVERY 2 YEARS REGARDLESS OF KILOMETERS.
Brake fluid is generally blue or green in color and should be clear not cloudy in the reservoir.
Replacing brake fluid is not difficult but needs to be done properly due to the safety aspect. It's not just the fluid in the reservoir that needs to be replaced, the clean fluid also needs to be pumped right through the brake system.

MASTER CYLINDER; Check the brake master cylinder (under the reservoir) for any signs of fluid leaks. Ensure the cap is properly fitted to keep moisture out.

BRAKE HOSES; Brake hoses need to be checked every service for cracking and any other sign of deterioration. For vehicles with anything over a 2 inch lift the standard hoses will be too short and longer hoses will need to be fitted. Any replacement brake lines must be ADR (Australian Design Rule) approved.




STEERING;

Checking for wear in steering components;
To check for wear in steering components you will need two people.
First person to operate the steering, second person underneath the car looking for excessive movement.With the engine off, person one needs to rock the steering wheel (from the straight ahead position) from left to right at the rate of about once per second. The steering doesn't need to be moved far, if they put one hand at the top of the wheel and move it from about the 11 o'clock position to 1 o'clock position is usually enough.

Person two needs to carefully inspect each steering joint, watching, feeling and listening for wear at each joint. For example, the drag link rod end where it attaches to the pitman arm on the steering box. As the pitman arm moves back an forth, the drag link should move with it, there should not be any movement in the joint on the end of the drag link or any of the other joints.

DRAG LINK; The joints on the end of the standard drag link (the steering arm in front of the front diff) are part of the link and can not be adjusted or replaced. If you find any wear in the joints it will need to be replaced. I recommend replacing the standard fixed link with an aftermarket heavy duty adjustable drag link. With the drag link sitting out in front of the diff it is exposed and easily damaged, aftermarket drag links are a lot stronger. Fitting an adjustable link will allow you to properly centre the steering if required. (moving the steering wheel on its splines does not centre the steering).
For those who like their 4WDing a little more hardcore, pay the extra and get a competition spec drag link with female threaded rod ends.

TIE ROD; The tie rod (the steering arm behind the front diff linking the left and right steering hubs together) is adjustable and has replaceable rod ends. The tie rod is adjusted to set toe in when you get a wheel alignment. For hard core off roader's the tie rod can be replaced with a heavy duty part.

KING PIN/SWIVEL HUB BEARINGS; King pin or swivel hub bearings need to be checked for wear and pitting. There are two ways to do this. First way is to jack the front wheels off the ground (support on axle stands) and remove the wheels. Next remove the tie rod, and the diff end of the drag link. Swivel both the swivel hubs slowly, the should move smoothly and without binding. If they fall into a definite centre position then the bearings are pitted and need to be replaced.
The other way to check them is to remove the bearings and inspect the visually. Be aware before you remove the king pin/swivel hub bearings that there is usually a shim or two between the square bearing cap and the swivel hub housing, these shims need to be refitted in the same position as they set the bearing pre-load.
If you've been driving through deep water it is a good idea to periodically remove one bolt from each of the bottom swivel hub bearings to allow any trapped water out. If you do find water has been trapped it would also be a good idea to repack your front wheel bearings and possibly CV joints.
Do this check at each service as a minimum.

FLEX JOINT; Check the flex joint in the steering shaft, just outside the fire wall. The flex joint has a rubber disc in it that is subject to wear. Look for elongation of the holes, cracking and perishing of the rubber.
The flex joint is designed in such a way that if the rubber disc does fail, the steel components of the joint can contact each other so you can still steer the car, though the steering will have a lot of free play.

STEERING BOX AND PUMP; Check for wear in the steering box, this needs to be done with the steering in the straight ahead position. You may need the person operating the steering to slow right down to do this. Watch the pitman arm (the output side of the steering box that the drag link attaches to) VERY carefully as the steering is getting rocked. If you compare the movement of the steering shaft going into the steering box to the movement of the pitman arm you should see a very small amount of free play where the pitman arm does not move. It really takes a trained eye to know what is normal but have a look anyway. If you think the movement is excessive, get a professional to have a look at it.
Also check the power steering box, pump and hoses for oil leaks. If you do find oil leaks or wear in the box or pump, best leave it to the pro's to overhaul them. A lot of steering and brake specialists do exchange components, so if you're handy on the tools you can save on labour by removing and refitting the components yourself. If you get an exchange steering box, ask them to swap the pitman arm over for you - they're a bugger of a thing to get off!

STEERING DAMPER; Check the steering damper for impact damage, oil leaks and bush wear.

POWER STEER FLUID; Dexron II 1 litre


GENERAL INFORMATION;
GQ and GU (Y60/Y61) steering boxes are different, the GU box is stronger with a bigger output shaft. You can fit a GU steering box to a GQ, BUT, not with a standard drag link. You will need an adjustable drag link as the pitman arm rod end needs to be inverted to fit the GU pitman arm. GQ/GU drag links are different lengths (GU is longer) so they are not interchangeable unless you fit a GU front diff, see general information in the differential section above.

Steering dampers may look like shock absorbers, but there is a difference. Shock absorbers have different valving and therefore damping rates on their compression and rebound strokes, steering dampers have the same valving/damping in both directions.


Tony

[YNOT]

SUSPENSION;


RADIUS ARMS; The front radius arms are the arms which extend from the chassis forward to the front diff. Look for cracking or perishing of the bushes. To do this you will need a good torch and have a very close look, cracks can be difficult to see. Levering the arms side ways with a suitable lever bar can make it easier to see by opening up the cracks.

TRAILING ARMS; Rear trailing arms extend from the chassis to the rear diff. There are 2 upper and 2 lower arms. Check the bushes as described above, also check the lower rear control arms for bends.
The lower control arms are made from thin tubing and are venerable to impact damage. If the lower control arms get damaged they can fold easily allowing the diff to rotate. In some cases this can just be inconvenient with the tyres rubbing on the front of the wheel arches, but if you're giving it hell when you bend an arm, it can lead to the tail shaft being twisted, diff pinion being torn off and shock absorbers being destroyed. Aftermarket heavy duty lower arms are readily available for exactly this reason.

PANHARD RODS; Panhard rods are the arms fitted between the chassis on the RH side to the diffs on the LH side. They are fitted front and rear to control lateral movement of the diffs.
Check the bushes for cracks and perishing as described above.
Some Nissan parts interpreters will try to tell you the bushes are not available separately and that you need to buy a complete panhard rod - not true. Companies like Superior engineering and Nizzbits can get you genuine Nissan bushes separately.
I've seen and felt what happens when front panhard rod bushes fail, and it's very dangerous. Usually after going over a sharp bump at 60+km/h, the front diff can develop a violent lateral oscillation or shake that can rip the steering wheel clean out of your hands - not something you want to have happen at 100km/h trust me!
Check your panhard bushes carefully and NEVER fit cheap poly bushes.


SHOCK ABSORBERS; Shock absorbers are designed to control or dampen the action of the springs.
The first thing to look for with shock absorbers is visual signs of wear and oil leaks. Check all the bushes for cracking and perishing, check the body of the shocks for impact damage and signs of leaking oil.
It's not possible to check shock absorber performance properly without proper testing equipment, but you can get an idea by doing a bounce test. Leaning on one corner of the car at a time, start bouncing the car as far as you can. When you've got a good bounce happening let go and watch. If you let go on the down (compression) stroke, the suspension should rise, fall and settle. if it continues to bounce past that it's time to see a suspension specialist.


SWAY BARS; Sway bars are spring steel bars fitted across the car, connected in two points in from the ends to the diff housings, and at the ends to the chassis via link pins. Their purpose is to reduce body roll or sway.
Check the bushes and/or ball joints on either end of the link pins. As with any bush or ball joint they are subject to wear.


GENERAL INFORMATION;
Rubber v poly bushes

When it comes to four wheel drives, if you want to get maximum suspension travel you need bushes that can flex and allow the suspension to move freely. Good quality poly bushes (don't bother with cheap ploy bushes, they're a waste of time and money) are durable and do a great job of locating various suspension components, but in most cases they are too stiff to allow the suspension to move freely. This is especially true for radius arm bushes in Patrol front ends.
Genuine Nissan rubber bushes for coil sprung Patrols are relatively cheap, durable and readily available.


Tony

[YNOT]

Post under construction.

ELECTRICS

BATTERY;
Charged/discharged voltages
Electrolyte levels/filling batteries
Case voltage/cleaning batteries
Corrosion

ALTERNATOR;

FUSIBLE LINKS;

GENERAL WIRING;


GENERAL INFORMATION;
The difference between starting and deep cycle batteries

Tony

[YNOT]

POST UNDER CONSTRUCTION

CHASSIS


TYRES;

REAR SPRING MOUNTS;

Tony

[YNOT]

GENERAL INFORMATION;

Tell me what you want to know about people, I will get to it.....eventually!

TOOLS;

DIFFS;
Y60/61 differences

STEERING BOXES;
Y60/61 differences

Tony

[benno_84]

Tony this is FANTASTIC!!!!! Thank you mate, and thanks for starting so quickly. I am going to make a start on some of the things you suggested straight away. I have been trying to get my head around things using the workshop manuals I have but there is often alot of information they assume you know and they don't always explain themselves very well.....I think this thread will be very helpful to people like me who are just starting out with their 4wd and have a limited mechanical background. At the end of the day doing your own maintenance saves you in the hip pocket, even just changing your own oils, coolant, belts and fluids makes a difference not to mention that you end up understanding your vehicle so much better than if you just take it in to the local mechanic periodically. Again thanks a heap! Even my wife was impressed......and that is something!!

[benno_84]

Hoses and Belts

Just thinking about doing the belts and hoses on the patrol as Tony has suggested. I am wondering if anyone knows where to get a value for money kit? I have looked on Ebay and a kit for both belts and radiator hoses is around the $149 mark, I also looked at a few others online....is this good value?

http://www.4wdspares.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=204
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/PATROL-GU-4-2LTR-TD42-DIESEL-HOSE-BELT-KIT-/140379664181?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20af47af35#ht_1070wt_905

I also found this catalogue from mackay rubber which shows all the hoses needed for different models.

http://mackayrubber.com.au/pdf/HoseWeb.pdf

Also are there any brands to go for or not go for? I'd imagine that there is a difference in quality?

Lloyd

[YNOT]

I don't know of any specific brands to stay away from. I prefer genuine Nissan or Gates (they do belts and hoses). You can get Gates belts and hoses from Repco. Roodogs has been around for a while, if the gear he sells was rubbish I don't think he would still be in business so you should safe there.
Get prices from Nissan (PM NIZZBITS for good prices), you might be surprised at some of their prices.
Don't forget to get heater hoses, and if you have a water cooled turbo there will be a few other small hoses.

Tony

[Finly Owner]

I'm getting some stuff from all this Tony, Thanks Mate

[my third 256]

what a great read .just shows how good the people on this forum are to us novices and who pay through the nose
because we are scared to touch our patrols in case we brake something
a big thanks to you tony for your time in putting this together
i cant wait for the next installment of articles on this thread
keep up the good work
p.s something on fuses and there placement in the different locations in the patrol / globes also
thanks again Stephen

[DX grunt]

Thanks Tony.

You're now one of my 'Favourites'. lol

[Finly Owner]

OTHER;

Tell me what you want to know about people, I will get to it.....eventually!

Electrics; Fuses, globes etc.

Tony

I think you might be best to discuss pros & cons of poly urethane v rubber suspension parts?

[YNOT]

Thanks for the suggestion Tim, will do. Suspension is one of the next subjects I want to cover, so I'll slot it in there.
I've started adding general information to the different area's, but there is so much general info and interchangeable parts info that I want to add, I'm thinking I might remove it and put it in a separate thread. For now Ill leave it as is and revisit the idea when I'm finished this project.

Tony

[Finly Owner]

Thanks for the suggestion Tim, will do. Suspension is one of the next subjects I want to cover, so I'll slot it in there.

Tony
Man you must really enjoy sharing knowledge to be this committed. But seeing you smile when explaining things, shows you just enjoy helping those who want to listen.

[wildgu6]

:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowd own::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:Tony Tony Tony. What can I say? YOU are the man.
Top effort buddy. Ever thought of writting your own maintanance / service manual.
Well done mate.

Cheers Pete

[NissanGQ4.2]

Great work Tony, have only just started reading this thread, how come i kept skipping this thread, it must of sounded like work *L*

As Pete said, you should release your own maintanance / service manual.

Well done.

[tkn]

Lloyd,
A kit of belts and hoses may cost you more than buying them separately. Like buying fuel filters, oil filters and air filters from the same store, you will probably end up paying too much. Most stores play ducks and drakes with their prices and by shopping around you can usually buy "brand" name goods at the same or better prices than "store brand" products. If you are in no hurry for belts, hoses, filters, etc. hand on til you find a 15% or 20% off sale and then buy what you need (plus a few extras). For example, RX Super oil was recently on sale for about $80 per 20L drum (i.e. 2 oil changes for a TD42 Patrol), so the credit card got a bit of a work out.

[Woof]

Don't know how I missed this thread Tony, probably because I only look at the end of some threads and not the beginning.:1087:
Tony what can I say, you have done a bloody brilliant job here mate, well done:clapping::clapping::clapping::thumbup::thumbu p::thumbup:

[YNOT]

Thanks Wayne, there's still more to add to it when get time and feel better.

Tony

[Baileys]

Thanks Tony, I'm a novice at all this but I did enjoy the knowledge you imparted with everyone here. I'll look at some of these for my preventative maintainance issues. I have a power steering leak I need to stop topping up and do something about and you gave me some ideas...thanks mate.
As many of the others have said, I skipped over this thread too...Bum... I just bought some hoses today and some more power steering fluid.
I'm thinking the fluid that has showered over the old hoses has made them soft and swollen slightly. Don't fear...i'm on it now...thanks Tony.
"Baileys"

[Baileys]

Thanks Lloyd for starting this tread...It was really helpful.

[Nanango]

Tony,
Totally concur with everyone elses comments above. Great post, heaps of good info. Can't thank you enough
Rick

[nedoleboy]

thanks tony .as a novice everything is a bit overwhelming but youve pulled it apart bit by bit to make it easier,ned

[Lambroast]

Tony thanks for a fantastic series of posts.
I've had my GQ for 3 yrs now and have done bugger all preventative maintainence on it. It started out as a workhorse, but now its a weekend plaything.
Now thanks to your extremely informative posts I know where to start and what to look for.

Once again, thanks.

[Mrowka]

How about removing the fuel tank for a cleaning once a year or so? Is that recommended?

[YNOT]

How about removing the fuel tank for a cleaning once a year or so? Is that recommended?

That depends on how clean the fuel is in your part of the world, but it's not necessary in Australia.

Tony

[Bigrig]

WOW!! Top effort mate and a top read!!

[YNOT]

WOW!! Top effort mate and a top read!!

You only just noticed this thread???

Tony

[Mrowka]

That depends on how clean the fuel is in your part of the world, but it's not necessary in Australia.

Tony

I'll take that as a "yes, you should have done it a long time ago already."

[macca]

About to do all oil changes and not looking forward to getting oil into the driveline.

Got one of those TomThumb pumps but it is hard work.

Saw this on ebay,

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250766964460&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

not sure if its able to pump thicker oils, are diffs etc filled with "light oil".

Have any of the members got something that works?

Also there are 2 different oil filters on a TD42 which one goes where or does it matter?

Thanks Macca

[YNOT]

Unless you have a pump that fits onto a 20 litre oil drum then the pump you have is about the best way to do it. As you say they are hard work. The pump I have won't even draw the oil out of the 5 litre drum, I have to take off the end of the pump and pour the oil in-very messy.

Diff and gearbox oils are thick oils.

TD42 oil filter changes;
GQ TD42 NA 2/88 to '97 uses Ryco Z115 (x2)
GU TD42NA 5/98 to '03 uses Ryco Z503 (x2)
GU TD42T 5/99 to '05 uses Ryco Z416 (x1) and Ryco Z503 (x1)

As far as I know the different filters GU TD42T won't interchange so it shouldn't take long to work out which goes where. Someone else with a TD42T may be able to confirm.

Tony

[macca]

Thanks Tony

Might get an old gas bottle and weld some fittings on it to make an air pressure pump, apply a bit of compressed air to push the oil in.

Could have done the job Saturday with the hand pump, the oil would have flowed well at 41deg C !!!

Not so sure how well I would have gone though

Macca

[nowoolies]

fanfriggintastic Tony
what a read ...............now im gunna read it again
great job mate ..thanks heaps
nowoolies Paul

[89GQ]

Top work Tony!!!!!

[blair]

excellent thread man its a good guide

[Burden]

Thanks Tony. Great info ill be reading back over it a few times i reckon.

[Bloggsy]

Great stuff Tony! Thanks for doing this. You've made it much easier to understand things that have previously flown over my head.

Any info you have on the 4.8 autos as you come by it would be appreciated.

I do know that the 4.8 autos can only take Matic J gearbox oil and they don't come standard with a dipstick. You can get them from Nissan though.

Cheers,
Darren

[AussieRoadHammer]

Unless you have a pump that fits onto a 20 litre oil drum then the pump you have is about the best way to do it. As you say they are hard work. The pump I have won't even draw the oil out of the 5 litre drum, I have to take off the end of the pump and pour the oil in-very messy.

Diff and gearbox oils are thick oils.

Just a thought and don't know if it will work, but has anyone tried using one of those 5ltr garden sprayers?
Either removing the guts out of the spray nozzle or cutting it off all together...

BTW... fantastic read Tony, well done and many thanks

Cheers Mick.

[dads tractor]

Check the bronze filter in the fuel pump after every couple of fuel filter changes as it blocks easily. Symptom a gradual loss of power just after a filter change.Remedy on the rear of the pump is a yoke with incoming and excess return fuel lines with a 17mm bolt .Undo bolt through the union and catch the washer pull all the way out and in the hole behind the bolt is the filter now this is where you have to be sneaky go and raid mums sewing basket and pinch the crochet hook and pull out the filter and clean by blowing with compressed air.reverse procedure then pump the lift pump till bled and away you go.Never admit ever to the hook and keep well stashed because its now a lint filter remova.
I bled my brakes with new fluid every 12 mths or after going through deep water a job that can be done with mates over a beer cheaper than brakes parts.

[tadpole]

Wow Tony, This will help in checking vehicles before purchase.

As a Service manager of 2wheel varieties I genrally hated Forums, (Wrong information) But reading all this info & being a Mechanic by trade has given me a differant look on them. I really appreciate you taking the time to post your obvious wealth of knowledge.

Look forward to future ubdates of wise wisdom

Glenn

[Splashback]

Gday, fantastic post. Can I put a question to you and everyone else, pros and cons of not running rotor shields on disc brakes? Mud, water cleaning protection etc etc.

Josh

[Bigrig]

Gday, fantastic post. Can I put a question to you and everyone else, pros and cons of not running rotor shields on disc brakes? Mud, water cleaning protection etc etc.

Josh

I thought about taking mine off, or at least chopping the bottom half off to let rocks and crap get away - figured the cut is all it would need as that keeps the top part of the guard with the 'wind scoop/catcher' in place for cooling ... that was my thought anyway - no science behind it whatsoever!! lmao

[clayton]

a full year later and your helping me out heaps, cheers tony :D
Clayton

[YNOT]

a full year later and your helping me out heaps, cheers tony :D
Clayton

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Tony

[clayton]

actually i do have one haha my 88 tb42 doesnt like going down from 4th to 3rd. if i dont have the revs just right for the gears to slip in (like if you werent using the clutch at all) it grinds a little going into 3rd. i have just today drained and filled the gearbox oil (it was filthy dirty) only over info on it is i have an oil leak from gearbox at a join about 30cm rearward of drain plug (which is why i drained and filled it in the first place).

Clayton

[YNOT]

Sounds like worn synchro's. How's the gearchange now you have changed the oil and how many K's has the car done?

Tony

[clayton]

320000km, gear change is slightly better than before in all other aspects although didnt particularly have any trouble with other gears, just stiff getting into reverse from stand still and doesnt like goin into first when coming to a stop i.e. when doing about 10km/h i have to double clutch it or come to complete stop then slide into first no worries.

Clayton

[ablast]

Thank you for your informative post. There is much here that has some value to me personally. I am sure it will be of great assistance to many.

Cheers.

[macca86]

tony you need a medal for your great input

[Hawk82]

Thanks for this very useful post!!
Gave me a lot of input what to keep my eye on ;)

[Mark S]

Thanks for posting this is great info...

[spoty_4]

Your rank thingy should be moved up to "GOD of Patrols".

[4hillbilly]

:049:maintances is what you pay your wife when she leaves u:thumbup:

[katwoman]

Katrol is turning 200,000.. Anything specific that is not here that should be changed/checked ?

[growler2058]

Katrol is turning 200,000.. Anything specific that is not here that should be changed/checked ?

Yep buy a GQ!!! Hahahahahaha

[katwoman]

Yep buy a GQ!!! Hahahahahaha

Just sold one, sorry !!!

[Silver]

Katrol is turning 200,000.. Anything specific that is not here that should be changed/checked ?

It is ama2ing how engines and bodies last these days.

My stepfather talked of giving engines a valve grind, de coke, and often new bearings at quite low mileages. And even in my time driving the paint finishes and body designs have generally improved out of sight in preventing rust.

[nick4884]

brilliant Tony, thanks heaps!!!!

[cliff]

This is briliant thanks so much!

[Dw86]

thanks heaps mate, has given me a few things to check up on.

[briano]

Hi oil change 5000 or 10000 fory61 Cheers

[AB]

Hi oil change 5000 or 10000 fory61 Cheers

I would be doing it at 5000 mate.

[paps01]

This would have to be the most comprehensive and useful quick reference I have come across. I hope it stays at the top of the first page on the forum. YNOT, how much do you love Patrols? Paps.

[YNOT]

This would have to be the most comprehensive and useful quick reference I have come across. I hope it stays at the top of the first page on the forum. YNOT, how much do you love Patrols? Paps.

Thanks Paps. This thread is a 'sticky' thread so it will always be easy to find.
Yes I do like my Patrol's (I've had 4 of them so far) and Nissans in general - up to number 7 now.

Tony

[gu radelaide]

some very useful info cheers

[tusman]

what a great thred!!! Still been used years after been started. Quick Question, My GQ petrol has a leak from the front seal as described by YNOT on page one, is there any risk of sucking water into the engin on a water crossing?

cheers and thanks again

[nzmal]

Thanks Tony, What a sensational post. This is going to be a huge help to me. Cheers.

[YNOT]

what a great thred!!! Still been used years after been started. Quick Question, My GQ petrol has a leak from the front seal as described by YNOT on page one, is there any risk of sucking water into the engin on a water crossing?

cheers and thanks again

Yes there is a risk of water getting in past the seal.

Tony

[rmoore]

Thanks heaps for this & all the other work and experiences you have shared

Rick

[mattyh]

this is fantastic info. i especially like the pics showing the old and new 5th gears. THANKS

[JK973]

Just got to reiterate what everyone has said so far, really useful post, just bought my first patrol (2.8TD) so this info is gooooold, thanks a heap!

[Tim30]

Most useful post, thanks very much.

[VIRK]

Thanks Mate!! This is amazing... It answers every query i had before i started preparing my Gq for the trip to the victorian high country this weekend...

[Alburypete]

Tony it has been said many times over but I, and I'm sure, many new commers to Nissans and forums truly appreiciate you sharing your obvious wealth of knowledge so freely.
I would imagine posting the volume of information you have in this thread alone would take up a considerable amount of yout private time.
Thank you again.

Pete.

[soundfx]

Just want to throw in my 2 cents in saying thanks for this thread. I haven't had my Patrol long but plan to keep it for a long time. This thread will no doubt be key in making sure that happens! Cheers!

[Corski]

OIL LEAKS; Patrol engines in general are not prone to leaking lots of oil, but it does still happen. Finding the exact source of an oil leak is not always easy. If you do a lot of mud driving then don't be surprised if your front crank seal starts leaking. This is one of the easier leaks to diagnose, oil will leak down the front of the sump and in most cases be thrown out from the crank pulley.
Oil leaking around the rear of the sump is usually coming from the rear main (rear crank seal), check carefully in both cases to make sure it's not coming from higher up.
Oil pressure sender units have been known to fail and leak oil.
If an oil leak or combination of leaks is bad enough the whole engine could end up covered in oil making it nearly impossible to find the source of the leaks. The best thing to do in those cases is to degrease the whole engine, then go for a drive and recheck for leaks.

This sounds like me, front and back. I cleaned the majority of the underside of my engine (all I could do in the short time I had but suspected it may be from higher up) and went off to Lancelin for the weekend. It's got some oil splatter again in the same places.

Is this an enpensive fix? Probably beyond my capabilites.

[bar1135]

Very useful - thanks

[gilly81]

Great stuff! Thanks for this.

[ckhoile]

great info in this post thank you for your time

Cam

[Oversize]

Check the bronze filter in the fuel pump after every couple of fuel filter changes as it blocks easily. Symptom a gradual loss of power just after a filter change.Remedy on the rear of the pump is a yoke with incoming and excess return fuel lines with a 17mm bolt .Undo bolt through the union and catch the washer pull all the way out and in the hole behind the bolt is the filter now this is where you have to be sneaky go and raid mums sewing basket and pinch the crochet hook and pull out the filter and clean by blowing with compressed air.reverse procedure then pump the lift pump till bled and away you go.Never admit ever to the hook and keep well stashed because its now a lint filter remova.
I bled my brakes with new fluid every 12 mths or after going through deep water a job that can be done with mates over a beer cheaper than brakes parts.

A word from a female mechanic, guys go down to an Op Shop and find the knitting needles and crochet hooks and make a collection of different sizes for your tool box, then find a real fine stainless steel one and grind the hook of it (if you haven't already broken mums one) as it makes for the best radiator pick and comes in handy for heaps of odd jobs...

Cheers, Louise

[Rick111]

:clapping::clapping:Hey Ynot, this would have to be one of the best threads I have every seen on any Forum. Soooo much information, and written in a way that most people can understand. Can't tell how greatfull I am:clapping:
Great work buddy, you are a true gentleman, THANK YOU:cheers:

Cheers, Rick

[Shaunous]

Hey Y'all,
What Km's is the recommended interval for changing the timing belt on the RD28t, Its not in the manual and I can't seem to find it anywhere else. I know most smaller cars say 80,000Kms...

I changed it only 5000Kms ago, but I have started a maintenance record and reminder for the big girl so I don't miss anything, and just want to note down when I need do to it next.

Cheers,
Shaun...

[AndyExy]

Hey Tony,
You might have directed this towards patrols, but I think it's fantastic information regardless of the vehicle, or age of vehicle.
Have you started writing your own maintenance book yet?
Or even better, you could always run some workshops on patrol maintenance! :D
Your dedication is inspiring.
andyp

[Brina]

Fantastic! A print out is going in the glove box.

[Antznz]

Great post.

Just went to do the oil change and the Repco lady (here's the first problem) gave me two Z416 filters and said that is right for my 1990 GQ Patrol. Got home and managed to see the old filters one of which say C-1121. Now the Ryco equivalent of this filter is a Z9 (according to Ryco website) which appear to be used for large trucks or perkins diesel engines. Any thoughts I'm fairly sure I should have got two Z115 Filters (can't be entirely sure as I can't see the writing on the second filter) but does anyone know what the Z9's are like (Better / worse)

[Silver]

Hi AntZNZ,

I see you have two filters - so you may have a diesel. If so, I can't help.

However if it is a TB42 petrol, I use a Z9 all the time. I look for those that are marketed as including a non return valve.

[mtnranges]

Legend of a post!! Thanks Tony for all your time and effort :)

[brad121]

this has been a load of help . :) definately gonna print a copy and shove it in the glove box.

[IronSparks]

What a great read - very helpful for those of us who dont have am owners manual or workshop manual (yet). I love tinkering on my truck and this is a great reference for general info on what to look for.

Top effort and its much appreciated by many of us.

[OhBugger]

A great thread, i'll be sure to use it, since the normal car mechanics on this island are not known for their excellent quality in their work...

[Hindar]

Tony, as a newbie, thank you for your helpful information.
I used my car usually for travelling to the jungle to bring food, medicine for the people.
One trip around 2000 km.
My Patrol TD 42 ,GU Y61 2002, 60 K in the clock, only changes tyre with maxxis bighorn 285x75x16 and coil spacer 30 mm from AMU.
My car before is Discovery, the engine broken after several times to the jungle in 16 years.
I still need more information for button function in dash like stab, AT, diff lock etc.


Best regards,

Hindar

[Oleksiy]

Very good Info!

[Oleksiy]

Thanks Tony!

[GU_Nemesis]

Tony, thanks so much for posting this as it has just answered so many of my questions in one hit! Very informative and helpful, thanks again.

[TJH]

awesome thread

[lorrieandjas]

I know it has been said a heap of times already but absolutely great work Tony. Thanks for your efforts in posting this - really damn useful.

[AB]

I refer back to this all the time too!!!

[itchyvet]

There is a lot of information to put in here so this post/thread will keep growing over time, I'll add photos as I can.

This is by no means a complete or definitive guide, my aim is to give people some basic things to look for as well as some general information about Nissan Patrols. This information primarily applies to GQ/GU (Y60/Y61) Patrols as they are the most common models and the only models I have direct experience with. If you have any questions however silly they may seem, please feel free to ask. PM me you phone number if you want to talk to me directly, I don't mind helping people.

Don't be put off by the amount of text, I'm trying to help people understand their cars, not just check this check that.


ENGINE

OIL LEAKS; Patrol engines in general are not prone to leaking lots of oil, but it does still happen. Finding the exact source of an oil leak is not always easy. If you do a lot of mud driving then don't be surprised if your front crank seal starts leaking. This is one of the easier leaks to diagnose, oil will leak down the front of the sump and in most cases be thrown out from the crank pulley.
Oil leaking around the rear of the sump is usually coming from the rear main (rear crank seal), check carefully in both cases to make sure it's not coming from higher up.
Oil pressure sender units have been known to fail and leak oil.
If an oil leak or combination of leaks is bad enough the whole engine could end up covered in oil making it nearly impossible to find the source of the leaks. The best thing to do in those cases is to degrease the whole engine, then go for a drive and recheck for leaks.

HEAD GASKETS; The head gasket is the gasket fitted between the cylinder head and the engine block. Head gasket failure can show in a number of ways. External oil or coolant leaks will show below the cylinder head, coolant leaks will generally show as a white or pale green stain down the side of the engine block. Internal leaks are more difficult to diagnose, but as this thread is concentrating on preventative maintenance I won't go into the diagnosis here.
The one suggestion I will make is to always look at the underside of your oil filler cap every time you take the cap off. If you see a milky brown paste under the cap, it's usually a good indication that coolant is leaking into the lubrication system, usually from a blown head gasket. Depending on the severity of the leak you may also find the same milky paste under the radiator cap and/or on the dip stick.

WELCH/FREEZE PLUGS; Welch plugs are the pressed steel plugs pressed into the side and sometimes rear of the engine block. Because they are made of pressed steel they are susceptible to corrosion if correct coolant levels are not maintained. Check each of the welch plugs carefully for signs of rust or coolant stains.

OIL COOLER; TD42 diesel engines are fitted with an engine oil cooler bolted to the engine block on the intake side. The oil cooler forms part of the engine cooling system and is therefore also subject to corrosion if correct coolant levels are not maintained. Leaks may be external as a coolant stain down the intake side of the block, or internal and mix engine oil with coolant. Oil cooler failure will present similar symptoms to a head gasket. Look for coolant stain down the intake side of the engine block, milky brown paste under the oil filler cap and/or radiator cap, and on the dip stick.
TB series petrol engines have a steel plate on the side of the engine block in the same position as the TD42's have the oil cooler. Look for rusting of the steel plate or coolant stains around it.

GENERAL INFORMATION;

TD42 oil filter changes;
GQ TD42 NA 2/88 to '97 uses Ryco Z115 (x2)
GU TD42NA 5/98 to '03 uses Ryco Z503 (x2)
GU TD42T 5/99 to '05 uses Ryco Z416 (x1) and Ryco Z503 (x1)

Please note, I use Ryco part numbers as an example only, use what ever brand oil filter you are comfortable with.


COOLING SYSTEM

RADIATOR; Check for blockages in the external fins. Remove the top radiator mounts and carefully push the radiator back. Look down between the radiator and A/C condensor as all sorts of rubbish can collect between the two and restrict air flow. It can be very hard to see with the radiator in the vehicle but also try to look for mud caked up in the fins. My brother cooked the engine in his Navara after going through a mud hole. The wet mud dries quickly when it hit the hot radiator and seriously reduces the cooling capacity of the radiator. Guess who got to replace that engine?
Another thing that's difficult to check for but worth doing, is checking the condition of the fins themselves. Lightly rub your fingers over the surface of the fins, if the fins start to disintegrate and fall out then it's time for a new radiator.

RADIATOR CAP; Without a proper pressure tester it's not possible to check the cap properly, but you can check the main rubber seal. Look for soft compliant rubber with no cracking or swelling. Given the low cost of radiator caps, if you're in any doubt about it's condition just replace it.

HOSES; Check hoses for swelling where they slip over the water pump, thermostat etc. Swelling at these points indicates corrosion on the aluminum housings. If the hose is swollen, replace it. I recommend replacing the corroded item as well, while you may get away with cleaning the corrosion off and fitting a new hose for a while, the corrosion almost always returns.
Squeeze the hoses, if they feel solid and make a cracking sound as you squeeze them then there is a calcified build up inside them and they need to be replaced.
Also, a hose may look and feel OK, but that does not always mean they are OK-I've been caught. The hose seemed fine when I serviced the car, but a few days later split open down the length of the hose. On closer inspection when you pushed your fingers into the hose from the outside, you could see cracks opening up inside the hose. If your in any doubt, or are planning a big trip and your hoses are more than 12 months old, replace them (all of them) and keep the old hoses for spares. Check the tension of the hose clamps (obviously this does not apply to the spring type hose clamps) a couple of times a year. When you replace hoses it is very important to recheck clamp tension a few days after you fitted the hoses, as the hoses will settle a bit after they've been heated and cooled a few times. [photo to be added later]

BELTS; Use a torch and have a very close look at your belts. Look for cracks appearing on the "V" side of the belt, pieces missing or frayed pieces. On a multi V belt the cracks may be very small. If your in any doubt or are planning a long trip, replace the belts, all of them. You might think that it does not matter if the A/C belt breaks, you can live without A/C for a while, but often when a belt breaks it will take out or damage the other more important belts. Broken belts can also lodge between the back of the crank pulley and the front of the engine, damaging the front crank seal. While the belts are off, give each idler pulley a spin listening for anything other than smooth quiet movement. Check belt tension about every month, just a quick push with your finger on the long span between pulleys. On a span of about 30cm you should have about 1cm movement. For engines with automatic tensioners check the tensioner for signs of wear.[photo to be added later]

WATER PUMP; Check the water pump shaft for vertical movement, for vehicles with an engine driven fan simply grab both sides of the fan and try to lift it up a few times, there should be no movement.
Use a torch and have a look at the water pump from underneath, look for a coolant stain or drips of coolant on the water pump housing. If you find shaft movement or leaks, replace the pump.

FAN; For vehicles with engine driven fans, look for cracking in the plastic around the centre of the fan, this is very common on Patrols. If it's cracked, replace it.

FAN HUB; For vehicles with engine driven fans, look for oil leaks from the fan hub. With the engine cold and stationary try to spin the fan by hand, it should stop within about a 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn. Start the engine, when you first start it and bring the revs up to about 1500rpm you should hear the fan roar for a while then go quiet. Keep the engine running and the revs at that point or there abouts. As the engine reaches full operating temperature you should hear the fan cycling, it will start to roar for 30 seconds to a minute then go quiet again. The on time of the fan will be extended on a hot day after a drive.

COOLANT; Without specialised tools the only way to judge coolant condition is by appearence. Rusty brown is bad, green,red, or blue is usually OK. This is only a guide, coolant should be replaced at or before manufactures recommendations and to specified concentration. Do not mix different types of coolant, if you are not sure what was in there previously, drain it, fill it with water (or coolant flush solution) run it until the engine is hot, and drain it again to flush out the old coolant. Some Nissan motors are fitted with an engine block coolant drain plug, where fitted they are usually at the back of the engine on the exhaust side [photo to be added later].

BLEEDING COOLING SYSTEMS; If you drain any coolant from your engine it is important to bleed all of the air out afterwards. Any air pockets that remain in the engine (which will be in the cylinder head) can potentially cause cracking of the cylinder head.
Bleed it by removing the radiator cap and letting the engine idle until the thermostat opens (when the coolant starts moving and the air the fan is pulling through the radiator suddenly gets warmer). Recheck coolant level after a few days.
Fuel injected 4.2 petrol (TB42E) have coolant bleed screws on top of the inlet manifold, be VERY careful as they have a habit of seizing into the aluminum and breaking off when you try to remove them. Because of this I now only bleed them as described above.

GENERAL INFORMATION;

STRAY CURRENT.


Tony

Tony;
I would suggest, inserting in the coolant part, USE ONLY NISSAN RECOMMENDED COOLANT, available in 4.5 liter containers, fill radiator with ALL the 4.5 then top up with distiled water.
Change out this coolant every two years, NO MATTER WHAT.
I learnt the lesson the hard, and expensive way by using Castrol inhibitor, which was not compatable with the alloys used in these engines, thus corroded the head gasket and the story goes on from there.

[Shaunous]

Nissan recommended or a coolant equal to or a higher grade equivalent.

[4.2GU4]

Tony the best thread I have ever read.
The age old coolant debate, now what are the recommended or equiv brands that I should use as thats what I am doing this weekend

[Shaunous]

Tony the best thread I have ever read.
The age old coolant debate, now what are the recommended or equiv brands that I should use as thats what I am doing this weekend

I'm over in PNG, so I cant get any info on my hands, but Nissan will have a grade that it requires, normally in the form on the make-up (bi-etholene glycol or tri-etholene glycol), and some other minor additives, this will be in the form of a 'lubrication and fluid specifications guideline', again sorry I cant get you that info, it'd be in a shop manual, i'm sure the other guys on here will be able to help you more, or maybe try google. Then when you get the spec's, go through the coolants in the shop and match or better their spec's. Same goes for oils and other fluids.

Shaun...

[damaverick]

Coolant is coolant. Just don't go for the el cheapo premixed stuff. Concentrate is the key.

I used to work in a taxi base and all we ever used on our own taxis was tap water, no coolant. This was under the owner's instruction and strangely enough the cars held up fine.

A leaking head gasket could be due to a number of reasons, the incorrect type of coolant being used is one of the less likely.

[Parksy]

Water/coolant changes ph over time. Distiller water is neutral, but if left in the radiator for too long will eventually go acidic and corrode the internals of the cooling system.
I think the big thing to look out for when choosing coolants is to make sure that it states it can be used with alloy/copper/brass/what ever system.
Was having a look at the elcheapo coolants in Kmart and none of them mentioned anything about what they could be used with. Best avoided IMHO.

[Warbo75]

Thanks for the helpful info. Learnt a lot. Cheers mate !!!

[Lera]

Thanks for the info Tony the best thread I have ever read.

[thelawz]

Thanks for a very handy post.

[Royce]

holy crap, you cant pay for this kind of knowledge, this is by far the greatest forum I've ever joined, so much info, and so many willing to share and spend so much of their own time contributing to give us less knowledgeable a fighting chance to save a bit of money, and keep our trucks in a good and reliable state. thanks to YNOT and everyone else thats contributed to not just this thread but countless other.

[Shadow121111]

Thanks for an awesome post, has helped me so much, Cheers

[Tas GQ]

Thanks for the post Tony, I just got a GQ yesterday and want to give it a thorough service. This information is invaluable. Cheers

[Badball]

Great post Tony, valuable information that money cant buy.

[NP99]

Coolant is coolant. Just don't go for the el cheapo premixed stuff. Concentrate is the key.

I used to work in a taxi base and all we ever used on our own taxis was tap water, no coolant. This was under the owner's instruction and strangely enough the cars held up fine.

A leaking head gasket could be due to a number of reasons, the incorrect type of coolant being used is one of the less likely.

Some contain silica and can do damage....

[The Viking]

I bled my brakes with new fluid every 12 mths or after going through deep water a job that can be done with mates over a beer cheaper than brakes parts.

I used to think it was a load of crap when they recommended changing brake fluid on especially new cars, with service intervals of 2 years or 40K and had the impression that it was just an excuse to make a buck or two on car owners. I even heard stories that they just sucked the resouair empty and claimed to have changed fluid.
I have changed my mind and taken the foil hat off and must admit it makes a lot of sense to flush and renew the brake fluid on intervals especially on 4WD and not only when you have done a lot of creek crossings. I had to give up on getting my brakes working on my GU and send it to a professional.
Before that I renovated the calibers and just couldn’t get it to bleed and brake probably, problem shifted around between front and back axle and drove me crazy. As I renovated the calibers I was surprised with the amount of dirt that migrated behind the brake pistons and must have come from all the dirt road driving and worn calibers. The brake specialist flushed the system several times and kept getting blockages, and the master cylinder had to be changed as well, probably as a result of dirty and moisture polluted brake fluid.
/Erik

http://www.autolabusa.com/car-care-tips/Vehicle-Maintenance%3A-The-Brake-Fluid-Flush_AE7.html

[The Viking]

This was an awesome thread as it started and [photo to be added later] sounded great, Tony can you get back with your wisdom? :D


There is a lot of information to put in here so this post/thread will keep growing over time, I'll add photos as I can.

[Shaunous]

It'd be cheaper and easier to buy a brake fluid meter and just measure the water in brake fluid ratio, save changing the fluid and wasting money when you don't need to.

I f@&kin hate bleeding brakes, and I get free brake fluid, I still wouldn't do it annually. Every 2 years I do. Unless you don't have many hobbies and plenty of time, go ahead :D

Some mechanics do just vac the main reservoir and replace the fluid, but some also just wipe your filter clean and tell you they serviced it, in both instances it shouldn't happen.

[P4trol]

Depends on your general climate/humidity and how you use the brakes. I use a one man bleeder, and it works well. You can feel the difference in the pedal. A bottle of fluid is less than $20.

[ahimz]

very useful info.thanks mate! (Y) :)

[chipppa]

This is the most helpfull thread i have come across. Comforting even.

[Robo]

Just a thought and don't know if it will work, but has anyone tried using one of those 5ltr garden sprayers?
Either removing the guts out of the spray nozzle or cutting it off all together...

BTW... fantastic read Tony, well done and many thanks

Cheers Mick.

yep did gear oil in son mav the other day, works fine just a little slow.
but the frustration of trying to do it manually ##@@#@#.
Just need a little bent pipe on end of hose to hook over filer hole.
replace the std tap with a more open design would/should improve flow and I'll be happy as pig in mud
I'm buying a couple cheap 5ltr bottles and keeping em just for this job.

[NissanGQ4.2]

yep did gear oil in son mav the other day, works fine just a little slow.
but the frustration of trying to do it manually ##@@#@#.
Just need a little bent pipe on end of hose to hook over filer hole.
replace the std tap with a more open design would/should improve flow and I'll be happy as pig in mud
I'm buying a couple cheap 5ltr bottles and keeping em just for this job.

Invest in one of these Robo: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOLEDO-GEAR-OIL-ENGINE-OIL-COOLANT-BRAKE-CLEANER-20L-DRUM-PUMP-/321179506899?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac7ca58d3

Once you have one you will be happy as a pig in mud, I have one similar 2 this one and its great for the diffs :)

[Tomdinneen]

wow tony lot of info to take in there should put that down in a book somewhere great work

[slamnsam]

i thing that the mos important thing of all to do is wash all the mud and dirt etc from all mojour components after each weekend out

[GrizzlyPiet]

Awesome post! An must read resource for all!!
Thank you,
Piet

[Shaunous]

i thing that the mos important thing of all to do is wash all the mud and dirt etc from all mojour components after each weekend out

Sure Is!

This saves plenty of future hassles, also rinsing off all the salt after beach trips, you'll never get it all off but it'll stop electrical problems amungst others.

[Oversize]

It'd be cheaper and easier to buy a brake fluid meter and just measure the water in brake fluid ratio, save changing the fluid and wasting money when you don't need to.

I f@&kin hate bleeding brakes, and I get free brake fluid, I still wouldn't do it annually. Every 2 years I do. Unless you don't have many hobbies and plenty of time, go ahead :D

Some mechanics do just vac the main reservoir and replace the fluid, but some also just wipe your filter clean and tell you they serviced it, in both instances it shouldn't happen.

Shaunous your a pussy! Here is a DIY thread repeat, just for you and written by a girl!
I had to learn how to do it BECAUSE mechanics are predominantly male and just gave me loads of fresh dribbled dung! I know my brakes are reliable!

my DIY kit includes:
- a $2 squirter bottle - new / empty - and write on it 'brake fluid and/or POISON' so it doesn't get used for anything else.
- a clear glass jar that holds the same volume that the system holds (about 1/2 a litre). Mine has a plastic lid I drilled a hole in, small enough to feed the plastic tube through. Makes less mess.
- a 30 cm length (enough to reach from the bleeder nipple to the floor) of clear tube (soft plastic) to fit on the end of the brake/clutch bleeder nipple
- a bottle of brake fluid, check your vehicle specs to ensure your using the correct type, most use DOT 3 or DOT 4
- a spare person (I have done it on my own and it takes an eternity!)

Process:
1. remove the head from the squirter bottle and place the suction tube directly into the brake/clutch fluid tank and suck the shit out while pumping/squirting it into the clear glass jar until the tank is empty.
2. pour new fluid into the tank until full. Try not to spill the fluid on anything, it tends to lift paint and make a long term mess. Wrap a rag around the tank if you have shaky syndrome.
3. remove the 4 wheels if you have the equipment, otherwise work around them. Starting with the wheel furtherest from the brake fluid tank, take the cap off the bleeder nipple and force the plastic tube over the nipple and place the other end in the glass jar with the old fluid. Crack the bleeder nipple nut enough to be able to hand loosen/tighten it with the correct fitting spanner (not a shifter). Place the spare person in the driver seat and open all the car windows so you can both communicate with each other (be prepared for the spare person to get bored so offer substantial reward for services at this point).
Code words ON - means brake is ON. OFF - means brake is OFF.
Instruct the spare person to place foot on the brake gently to push fluid through the system. When spare person is ON, release the bleeder nut enough to let the fluid out and then close it and yell OFF to the spare person.
Keep doing this until new fluid and no air comes out the tube into the glass jar and keep topping up the brake/clutch fluid tank as you go. Tighten the bleeder nut, remove the tube, replace the cap and move to the next wheel. If you have done it properly you shouldn't have to do it all again to remove any remnant old fluid in the system.
4. Repeat step 3 moving to the next furtherest wheel each time. By the time the last wheel is done watch the brake fluid level in the tank and ensure it finishes on the MAX line. Put the lid back on the tank and the jobs done.
5 Same process applies to the clutch. Check your manual for the location of the clutch bleeder nipple/nut.

When you are done, dispose of the DIY kit thoughtfully.

[Shaunous]

Shaunous your a pussy! Here is a DIY thread repeat, just for you and written by a girl!
I had to learn how to do it BECAUSE mechanics are predominantly male and just gave me loads of fresh dribbled dung! I know my brakes are reliable!

my DIY kit includes:
- a $2 squirter bottle - new / empty - and write on it 'brake fluid and/or POISON' so it doesn't get used for anything else.
- a clear glass jar that holds the same volume that the system holds (about 1/2 a litre). Mine has a plastic lid I drilled a hole in, small enough to feed the plastic tube through. Makes less mess.


- a 30 cm length (enough to reach from the bleeder nipple to the floor) of clear tube (soft plastic) to fit on the end of the brake/clutch bleeder nipple
- a bottle of brake fluid, check your vehicle specs to ensure your using the correct type, most use DOT 3 or DOT 4
- a spare person (I have done it on my own and it takes an eternity!)

Process:
1. remove the head from the squirter bottle and place the suction tube directly into the brake/clutch fluid tank and suck the shit out while pumping/squirting it into the clear glass jar until the tank is empty.
2. pour new fluid into the tank until full. Try not to spill the fluid on anything, it tends to lift paint and make a long term mess. Wrap a rag around the tank if you have shaky syndrome.
3. remove the 4 wheels if you have the equipment, otherwise work around them. Starting with the wheel furtherest from the brake fluid tank, take the cap off the bleeder nipple and force the plastic tube over the nipple and place the other end in the glass jar with the old fluid. Crack the bleeder nipple nut enough to be able to hand loosen/tighten it with the correct fitting spanner (not a shifter). Place the spare person in the driver seat and open all the car windows so you can both communicate with each other (be prepared for the spare person to get bored so offer substantial reward for services at this point).
Code words ON - means brake is ON. OFF - means brake is OFF.
Instruct the spare person to place foot on the brake gently to push fluid through the system. When spare person is ON, release the bleeder nut enough to let the fluid out and then close it and yell OFF to the spare person.
Keep doing this until new fluid and no air comes out the tube into the glass jar and keep topping up the brake/clutch fluid tank as you go. Tighten the bleeder nut, remove the tube, replace the cap and move to the next wheel. If you have done it properly you shouldn't have to do it all again to remove any remnant old fluid in the system.
4. Repeat step 3 moving to the next furtherest wheel each time. By the time the last wheel is done watch the brake fluid level in the tank and ensure it finishes on the MAX line. Put the lid back on the tank and the jobs done.
5 Same process applies to the clutch. Check your manual for the location of the clutch bleeder nipple/nut.

When you are done, dispose of the DIY kit thoughtfully.

Im not a pussy, just precious with my time, and my time is expensive :tease:

Did I mention I hate bleeding brakes...

[patrolman123]

ahh yep thatll explain it ^^^^^^ cheers peeps

[Fozzee63]

Cool info on the bleeding air from system 10/10

[libby]

Thnx for all the info, i am the same new to 4x4 driving and maintenance on gq patrol. Did take it out for muddy driving and now have oil leak from crank seal. i am attempting to do this myself as i was quoted $4,000.00 to do repairs as i was told the is a groove in shaft. So was wondering if anyone had a few tips for me on putting everything back as repair shop was going to charge me $300 to put it back together, all that was taken off was cover and pulleys and seal. I have bought a crank sleeve and new seal as i was told this would fix problem. thnx for any advice.

[Edwardo]

Hey Tony
I am the proud owner of my first 4wd 2002 Gu 3 lt turbo auto DI. I know nothing at all about this only that I love it.
It runs Penrite oil but not sure of oil filter number ??? Nor am sure of fuel filter Number ???
This is a great 4wd and I am the second owner, it has 205.000 kms and has had auto fully serviced each year for cost $250 per, the auto is in top nick.
I intend to change oil very soon so would like to know about diesel oils etc etc, love to hear any tips at all mate

Edwardo

[Oversize]

Thnx for all the info, i am the same new to 4x4 driving and maintenance on gq patrol. Did take it out for muddy driving and now have oil leak from crank seal. i am attempting to do this myself as i was quoted $4,000.00 to do repairs as i was told the is a groove in shaft. So was wondering if anyone had a few tips for me on putting everything back as repair shop was going to charge me $300 to put it back together, all that was taken off was cover and pulleys and seal. I have bought a crank sleeve and new seal as i was told this would fix problem. thnx for any advice.

I did my oil seal last year, my mechanic replaced it for me for a couple of hundred dollars only. I would have done it myself but he installed it when we did the rebuild and wanted to take a closer look at it himself. No big deal, just need a puller to get it off square and something to make sure the new seal goes back in square. Google youtube and you will find several vids of the job on similar models.

[jimt]

YNOT your status says it all LEGENDARY. In a similar position and just came across this, fantastic stuff and thanks

[GRY60]

thnks for the very exact description of the problemzones

[thefamilytruck]

Did just read all 14 pages! Can't wait to get my gq home and start tinkering/ servicing & mods!!!

Love this forum already!

Oh btw, thanks Tony!

[mojo53]

I had a service done a few years back and the mechanic found very small parts of contamination on the magnetic drain plug and blamed it on the weakness in the fifth gear splines and recomended they pull out the gearbox to check it out only to find it was it was a bearing race that was slightley scored and recomeded replacing the bearing and race and apprently they were supposed to come in a set blah blah so almost $5000 later they said "better be safe than sorry" oh and bye the way you have the upgraded spline in the gearbox so that it not a problem .....yeah right.

[gemoc1]

This is amazing, just bought a GQ, gonna go over all of this asap, thanks heaps

[alltorque]

Don't forget the salt water corrosion, just being in the proximity of the beach is enough to kick off the rust. keep the chrome shiny fella's.

[Clunk]

Hi dear Tony,
Thank you so much!
It helps a lot :)

-----------------------
NCH High-precision

so what Patrol do you drive around Shen Zen City?

[P4trol]

I think she drives a spam mobile.

[NissanGQ4.2]

Banned, and now know longer a member. God I love spam-o-matic :)

[dhiren_motilal]

Thanks Mr Tony.

[Larx]

As a newbie to Nissan I truly appreciate the time you've put into this. Cheers,

[yummo]

Thanks for this guys.. I'm combining elements to make a pretty comprehensive check list

[yazz22]

New Patrol owner here. Thanks for the information

[AJTich]

Fixed my lightbar relay... Mmmmm.. Bright as now....

[dysonest]

this thread is awesome, cheers for all the knowledge tony

[threedogs]

I think it would be a good idea to put the Patrol on a hoist every now and then and have a good visual underneath.
Grab a handfull of spanners and try every nut/bolt combo you can see, along with a pry bar to check bushes.
I know a lot of you trust your mechanic to do this, but ask if you have friends or relatives with a hoist.

[Heinzy]

Nicely put together great read.

[Biskit]

Thanx for the great read, Tony! I have learned a whole lot more about my beasty now. I look forward to seeing any new info here as well!

[Damozie]

Fantastic info! Thanks mate

[dannormal]

I have noticed there are more and more electrical components under vehicles now days. If you are like me and spend a lot of time at the beach, these connectors and components soon get a lot of surface corrosion on them. From working in the mining industry I came across a product called "Densyl Tape". You can buy it in rolls a bit like a rolled up toilet paper. It is a thick cloth type material covered in greasy waterproof non-conductive "stuff" a bit clay like. It never drys out. What I do is cut strips to suit and then liberally rap anything and everything electrical. If for any reason I unwrap to make repairs or checks, even years later, the connectors etc are as clean and corrosion free as the day the vehicle came out of the factory. Of course donot wrap it around moving parts.

[in4m3]

Thank you and much appreciated..

[Addy]

Best thread! Great info


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TrollinAround]

Feels like I just found a pot of gold, cheers 🍻

[juks13]

Very very useful info.

[Ali1111]

hello all

help please. I already started to replace my engine 4.2 gasoline petrol with y61 4.8 gasoline petrol automatic transmission. the big difference between the tow force me to use wiring, schematic diagram,..etc. I am not sure of what exactly I need to make it happen, moreover the terms that consist of letters and numbers example RE4R03A how to know what do they mean?? there must be a list that explains what each terms means.

thanks

[ansaha]

Hi all,
After tearing down my td42 for a rebuild I noticed the 3 Welch plugs in the water gallery behind the oil cooler had a 10mm hole on the centre of them. Looked factory but new Welch plugs kit does not have the holes. Is this done by someone for any reason? Thanks.