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Alitis007
25th September 2012, 10:33 AM
Hi there, just wanting to know when you wire up spot lights do you use a relay for each light or 1 relay for both ?
Cheers

healy
25th September 2012, 10:37 AM
If they are a pair then just one relay

Winnie
25th September 2012, 10:47 AM
Yep just one relay for the pair will be fine. Make sure you wire them up to your high beams to please the coppers.

Alitis007
25th September 2012, 11:09 AM
Cheers fellers n the jacks can bang it lol nah i'm wireing them up on ther own circuit so i can use them if i need to withought the head lights on when i'm fishing or as work lights.. Thanks as always guys you are a great help!!

Yendor
25th September 2012, 01:57 PM
You can get a on/on switch or a on/off/on switch and wire it up so when the switch is in one position the spot lights will only work when the high beam is on and in the other position they will work independently.

threedogs
25th September 2012, 02:01 PM
If you're going to wire them to use as work lights, you might want to wiring them to your Aux battery.

P4trol
25th September 2012, 02:06 PM
Some relays (sold as spot light relays) have two terminals so you can run a wire from each spotty to the relay.



Tipsy-tap

threedogs
25th September 2012, 02:08 PM
Now I think about it keep it legal and put a light bar or similar on the roof.IMO only

macca
25th September 2012, 02:30 PM
In NSW they have to be on only with the High Beam and an on / off switch on the dash for rego pink slips.

You guys dont get the pink slips down in Vic, so might get away with it. Untill a copper decides to go over the vehicle.

On the roof as threedogs said and not necasarily pointing forward may fit the work light description.

Frying a copper before you can turn them off might get you some unwanted attention.

The suck some amps so the idea of putting them on the aux battery is a good one too.

MEGOMONSTER
25th September 2012, 03:04 PM
I have 7 spotties, 2 on the bar and 5 on the roof rack. All turn on under high beam and can be switched off under high beam. I also have a separate switch for the 5 roof spotties to work with the car off, wires running to the aux battery


Sent from the secret chambers of our secret society, on a secret iPhone, with a secret pin code and eye retina scanning from a secret peep hole, just don't tell anyone OK, cos it's secret........

threedogs
25th September 2012, 03:26 PM
007 try a few of these pointing to the side, 36 watt flood or spot. More than enough light for your needs.
Or you could use a 7" light bar. plenty of choices just keep your D/L legal

Plus LED will use less power

Alitis007
2nd October 2012, 03:08 PM
Hey guys sorry for the late reply forgot all about the thread. On the day i first got a 5 pin 40 amp relay which has two 87 terminals which is a normal off type but i also got sent a 5 pin with terminals 87 and 87a which is a normally on type 87a has power until you trigger the relay then it looses power, so i called a auto elec and told him i wanted to wire up a pair of 35w hid spotties and he said you beed a 70 amp relay so i sent the two i had back and got a 4 pin 70 amp. Now i'm only running 1 battery atm and connected the switch and relay directly to the battery but if i ever have any dramas with the authorities i can connect a wire from my high beam to the relay to make it work the legal way by either connecting it to the 30 pin for power in or the 85 pin for earth depending weather the circuit is positive switching or negative switching. But as far as using them as works lights the way they shine wont suit me so i'm thinking of putting a 12v socket under the bonnet and buying or making a led lead light to use. Thanks again for your input guys and as soon as i figure out how to post pics in threads i'll show off the end result cheers.

Alitis007
10th October 2012, 04:19 PM
Heres a pic of the lights and switch2096920970

Lieney
10th October 2012, 10:54 PM
Driving lights need to be connected to the high beam circuit and be independently switched for them to be legal. There are other minor points but thats he basics.
Wire and mount 'em up on ya bar, then do what threedogs said and get an LED light bar but mount it on a swivel.
Face it rearward (work light) or forward (daylight) when required and can have it independently switched.
Ensure the current draw from the lights does not exceed the wiring carrying capacity, fuse rating or relay carrying capacity.
100w halogen globe, draws 8.3A at 12V
Volts X Amps = Watts

Pukie83
11th October 2012, 04:41 PM
i used 2 will it make a difference

Alitis007
12th October 2012, 03:16 PM
Pukie83 two of what did you use?? If its relays its just more wiring.

Alitis007
12th October 2012, 03:17 PM
Liney i know that thanks for your input.

threedogs
12th October 2012, 03:25 PM
007, still plenty of airflow mounted there, well done, just put this pic on another thread for a comparo later tonight, All are HID 6000k. look blue in pic but are very white

Alitis007
12th October 2012, 03:50 PM
Will do 3d dont finnish work 7pm should be dark enough then with this beautiful melbourne weather today lol. Nice looking rig champ, your not scared of the dark at all!! Haha

Alitis007
12th October 2012, 08:40 PM
Ok well heres some night shots i'll put some more tomorrow 21066thats low beam and spot 21067 thats hi beam and spot. My head lights are HID BI Xenon (bi meaning two separate filament globes together in one globe) 35w 6000k and my pencil beams are HID Xenon 35w 6000k.

P4trol
12th October 2012, 08:55 PM
You can see the rain better in the second picture.

Did you take any down-road.?



Tipsy-tap

Alitis007
12th October 2012, 09:59 PM
You can see the rain better in the second picture.

Did you take any down-road.?



Tipsy-tap

Thats coz it started raining harder lol i'll try and take some soon as i drive down an empty street with hardly any street lights

threedogs
12th October 2012, 11:00 PM
Look the same colour as mine ,here's pic from inside, much brighter in real life

Alitis007
12th October 2012, 11:19 PM
Look the same colour as mine ,here's pic from inside, much brighter in real life

Yeh true, brighter and whiter haha but to me my spotys seem a bit green when there on, dunno. Heres a couple of shots but its not with the spotys on there was too many street lights to be able to pick them out21071 thats low beam 21072 thats high

threedogs
13th October 2012, 11:35 AM
I fitted 6000k yours must be 15000 or 20000 k maybe ???

Alitis007
13th October 2012, 11:53 AM
I fitted 6000k yours must be 15000 or 20000 k maybe ???

Nah there 6000k just 35w white color spectrum for the head lights , i show you the box lol the spot lights are running off a 70amp relay if thats making the difference . The initial current draw is 11amps and they run at 8 amps but the longer they stay on they clan up a bit, last night had to go to the servo so i took the back streets and left them on and it shone like day just forgot to take a pic hahaha

threedogs
13th October 2012, 12:01 PM
Look on the Kelvan colour chart yellow around 3000k white 5000k then they start to go blue, which personally I don't like, up to green, purple.
My headlights are bi-xenon HID

Alitis007
13th October 2012, 12:37 PM
Look on the Kelvan colour chart yellow around 3000k white 5000k then they start to go blue, which personally I don't like, up to green, purple.
My headlights are bi-xenon HID

So are mine but i was talking about the spottys being greenish ,are we just confusing it ?? 21084

threedogs
13th October 2012, 01:23 PM
Yeah think so lol still very bright

Alitis007
13th October 2012, 01:30 PM
Great for pesky drivers on the ring rd haha

P4trol
13th October 2012, 02:39 PM
To confuse it further...

Depending on the white balance setting in your camera, the lights could appear different on film to real life.





Tipsy-tap

threedogs
13th October 2012, 03:39 PM
Yeah some wont pick up all the lumens or some thing, Filmed with el cheapo video, bush track night time 6 x hid lights on roof, replayed to my kids when I got home.
What the,,, bugger all light but in real time daylight in the night

P4trol
13th October 2012, 04:19 PM
No,

To our eyes white light is... White.

To a camera, there are differences. Incandescent light bulbs appear yellow. Flouro lights appear green etc, without correction. The camera can correct for it automatically. That is why you might take a pic of the lights that look almost purple to the eye, but they turn out white when you take a photo.

Sometimes when you get several different lights in the one photo shot, it (the camera) adjusts for one particular type of light, and you see the effect on the other lights.

The other problem with taking a photo of what you're spotties can see is: with camera in auto, it tries to get a decent exposure.

For the really bright lights, the shutter speed is faster. Not as much light gets to the sensor/film.

For less bright lights, the shutter on the camera stays open longer, resulting in a photo that looks pretty similar to the brighter lights. Think of star trail photos - looks like an awesome bright sky, but really the shutter has been open a while to bring out even those stars invisible to the naked eye.

The solution? To use a camera that allows full (manual) control over iso, shutter speed and aperture.

But thank you for the pics posted. They do give a rough idea on what to expect for that setup.

Tipsy-tap

Alitis007
13th October 2012, 04:51 PM
Thats full on, i'll just keep taking pics on my iphone with the HDR turned off. Cheers

Adventurous
21st October 2013, 08:40 PM
Slightly off topic, but I have similar lights on my motorbike.

The top centre ligths are the normal and high beams.

The next lights down are LED running and high beams (ie. they have two brightness settings).

The lowest lights are 4" HID lights used with high beam only - but they show well more than 1km down the road!

The benefit of the LED lights is that they provide greater visibility (ie. people seeing me) during the day, and go much brighter instantly when I flick on the high beam. This makes an excellent combination with HID lights, which have a few seconds warm up time for full brightness.