Another 4" lift question

[BLKWDW]

Hey all got another 4 inch lift question. i'm about to order a heap of stuff from ss but before i do i need to know something 1st.

I'm getting
4" flexy coils
amada extreme shocks
drop boxes
brake hoses
adjustable panhards
lower trailing arms
brake bias
diff breather hose
ss steering dampner
ss rear sway bar link pins
adjustable comp spec draglink

add up to $3327 in total.

Questions is on there site it said i need bumpstops as well but i'm wondering if i can get away without having them in the short term and if i do what problems will i encounter? Its a $350 saving

Also should i get the upper or lower trailing arms? If i get a quick enough response i'll be ordering today.

[MudRunnerTD]

Adjustable Uppers and HD standard length Lowers.

i have not fitted the bump stops in the back and on the weekend Blew my second set of rear shocks :( Depends how hard your going to drive it mate, if you think your going to use it properly then bump stops are a no brainer. You can get them as a bolt up off ebay for $175 for the rears running 80 series stops and the fronts will be about $100 so $350 seems a little steep but not by much. At least if you buy it from them and it does not work then they own your problem ;)

[BLKWDW]

I cant afford to get both upper and lower trailing arms so its one or the other for now what would be best. Hmm looks like i'll have to fork out for bump stops.

[MudRunnerTD]

Then Adjustable Uppers are the go mate. save your coin and buy the lowers for strength only as they are exposed and weak when off roading. but no change is needed for your lift.

Good luck mate

[growler2058]

AS Mudrunner says mate go the lowers

[BLKWDW]

Mudrunners said uppers mate not lower. Well i ordered the kit and after speaking with shane got the lower +15mm stronger arms cos i'll be chopping my guards. Also got front extended bumpstops and he told me to weld in some box tube for the rear bump stops so i could afford the other things on the list. now the waiting begins.

[MudRunnerTD]

I am surprised Shane is recommending +15 extended lowers ???? He has been a strong advocate of standard length for as long as the debate has been going on! +15mm longer lower trailing arms is Mathematically incorrect?? Oh well. I'd have gone the standard length lowers and adjustable uppers to reset your pinion angle.

Also, did Shane say what size the box section should be? or is he leaving that to you to figure out?

Here is a Brand New shock with less than 1500kms on it with the advice "you'll be right mate, just weld a bit of box tube in there"

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0756.jpg

Make sure you cut the bottom the bump stop plate on the diff or your shocks will hit! Did he tell you that? (1500kms old)

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0759.jpg

If you dont get your Trailing arm length right your springs will look like this

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0766.jpg

And you will have vibration issues and a very poor pinion angle.

This is TOO STRAIGHT

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0768.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0769.jpg

Watch out for this

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0770.jpg

Cut this off

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0772.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0777.jpg

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0779.jpg

1500kms old and Junk! Dont take it for granted that "Just weld in a bit of Box Tube" will get it done for you mate. Get the measurements right or you will be buying a second time.

http://nissanpatrol.com.au/images/Stripping%20the%20GQ/GQ%20Suspension%20Build/IMG_0781.jpg

[BLKWDW]

Nope mate he told me exactly what size i will need to be welded in. It isnt a permanent fix but will give me time to get the cash. I spoke to shane personally bout the lift and he did say to go the lower not upper trailing arms should i be going against his advice?

[Ben-e-boy]

I have box section on the rear its a bit of 70x70 if you have 10-11 inch travel shocks thats all you need. you do need to cut the lower bumps as previously described by MR
I have a rear bump stop increase of 160mm to fit 13inch travel shocks between standard mounts under a 4 inch lift. but I also have lower control arms that are 300mm longer than standard.

x2 on the uppers first up to set your pinion angle correctly. invest in an angle gauge thay are pretty cheap. from memory my pinion angle at the g-box is 84 degrees, becaude I had to turn my angle gauge 180 it is 96 degree at the diff.

I do stongly suggest that you save hard for the longer lower control arms as well, as standard length with big lift will give you the adverse effects of what called rear steer or roll steer. rear steer happens under flex when your axle twists due to the radial movement of you control arms this happens to mine, yours and everyones. (see pic take note of the direction the passenger rear wheel is facing and remember thats it a solid axle so the driver rear is facing the same way) at full flex your lower control arm is at such an angle that alot of pressure is put on the control arm chassis mount upwards due to the angle of the arm. This pressure tries to lift the vehicle. from this the rear wheels will try to drive under the vehicle and traction and the ability to drive forward in some situations is comprimised. with longer control arms the angle is less and the pressure put on the chassis mount is more towards the front of the vehicle, pushing forward.

I'm only an amature when it comes to proper suspension tech and trying to explain this is quite difficult and i'm tired I will have another crack at this tomorrow when my head is a bit clearer

Benny