Need a little help.

[Cosmic_Hoard]

Hi, I own a 1984 Nissan patrol and I've blown my head gasket or blown out a plug. Instead of replacing the head or paying the $1000 dollars to have a mechanic do it, I got an engine from a friends old patrol. (Plus bits and pieces.) Lots of people have given me mixed opinions like it is to hard to swap engines and I was told to change the engine I need to remove my head gasket anyway. *Is this true?* Is it really that difficult to swap engines? I just want to take out my engine with the blown head and replace it with the engine out of this wrecked patrol. I have friends that can help me and I have all the right equipment.

[nissannewby]

Same engine is going in as whats coming out?

[Cosmic_Hoard]

Yea. Basically.

[MQ MAD]

The answer is in the other thread you started
Same out same in , easy as drinkin a beer
Diesel out petrol in a pain, as is petrol out diesel in
Diesel to diesel,petrol to petrol easy

[Finly Owner]

To add to above, leave engines complete, lift out whole.



Tim

[GQ TANK]

Pull RADIATOR, STARTER MOTOR, CLUTCH SLAVE , COOOLING PIPES, POWER STEERING HOSES FROM BACK OF PUMP, REMOVE CABLE FROM ALT, REMOVE FAN (SAVE IT GETTING DAMAGED IN THE LIFT, REMOVER EXHAUST - AT THE FLANGE, REMOVE CABLES LIFT, REMOVE AIR COMPRESOR FROM THE BLOCK - DONT DISCONNET THE HOSES - IT WILL SAVE RE GASSING.

Seperate the motor from the gear box.

PULL MOTOR OUT - HIRE A ENGINE HOST - DONT GET UNDER IT THEY ARE VERY HEAVY (MOTOR)

FIT A NEW CLUCT - IF YOU HAVE THE MOTOR OUT IT WILL SAVE HAVING TO DO IT IN 6 MONTHS TIME

REVERSE PROCESS.

[the ferret]

Pull RADIATOR, STARTER MOTOR, CLUTCH SLAVE , COOOLING PIPES, POWER STEERING HOSES FROM BACK OF PUMP, REMOVE CABLE FROM ALT, REMOVE FAN (SAVE IT GETTING DAMAGED IN THE LIFT, REMOVER EXHAUST - AT THE FLANGE, REMOVE CABLES LIFT, REMOVE AIR COMPRESOR FROM THE BLOCK - DONT DISCONNET THE HOSES - IT WILL SAVE RE GASSING.

Seperate the motor from the gear box.



PULL MOTOR OUT - HIRE A ENGINE HOST - DONT GET UNDER IT THEY ARE VERY HEAVY (MOTOR)

FIT A NEW CLUCT - IF YOU HAVE THE MOTOR OUT IT WILL SAVE HAVING TO DO IT IN 6 MONTHS TIME

REVERSE PROCESS.

Well, What more can I say, well done MK Tank, Iv'e done this changeover dozens of times and you have nailed it.
Cheers, the ferret

[MQ MAD]

Pull RADIATOR, STARTER MOTOR, CLUTCH SLAVE , COOOLING PIPES, POWER STEERING HOSES FROM BACK OF PUMP, REMOVE CABLE FROM ALT, REMOVE FAN (SAVE IT GETTING DAMAGED IN THE LIFT, REMOVER EXHAUST - AT THE FLANGE, REMOVE CABLES LIFT, REMOVE AIR COMPRESOR FROM THE BLOCK - DONT DISCONNET THE HOSES - IT WILL SAVE RE GASSING.

Seperate the motor from the gear box.

PULL MOTOR OUT - HIRE A ENGINE HOST - DONT GET UNDER IT THEY ARE VERY HEAVY (MOTOR)

FIT A NEW CLUCT - IF YOU HAVE THE MOTOR OUT IT WILL SAVE HAVING TO DO IT IN 6 MONTHS TIME

REVERSE PROCESS.

Depending on motor, you dont need to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder, or take the starter out
IF its a diesel,we havent been told exactly what, the starter stays on the motor
You dont need to disconnect any steer hoses,just unbolt it from the engine mounting brackets,then reattach
If its a petrol and has extractors these are generally fully welded, so you have to either cut the exhaust and reweld or remove them from the motor,if you have the factory exhaust you just unbolt at the exhaust flange and leave the inlet/exhaust manifolds on the engine
There are a few short cuts and pitfalls,so OP a touch more info please