MK plumbing

[Crankshaft]

While removng the engine from my MK i became aware of the vast amount of heater hose plumbing (that needs to be replaced) and apparent duplication.
Does anyone know why the heated manifold hose goes from the manifold (LHS) to the RHS and then the heater hose followes it around the engine to a Tee on the RHS? Why not tee it in on the LHS? and use a lot less hose and fittings?

Why does the inlet manifold have a hose each end and one in the middle?

is the pipe down the RHS the input or output side of the pump ??

Is the fitting on the side of the block that goes to the centre of the manifold suitable to supply the heat for the LPG regulator? Guessing it is an output?

I could probably test it but the engine is hanging on a crane and I would like re-plumb it while it is easy to reach.

Cranky

[aussiemale]

I'm actually pretty new to this stuff however wouldn't think that there would of been that much difference between a MK and a MQ. If you check my build page (Bryan MQ/MK project) have both a MQ and a MK. the MK is diesel, however the MQ is a L28. I've just removed the radiator and related heater hoses and don't have half the amount you have. Basically it's all on the drivers side and curves around behind the engine and attaches to the heater inlet. Will be posting some pics later on when the light conditions improve

[aussiemale]

Re-attached the hoses for the photos
From the drivers side
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/aussie_male1au/00040304.jpg
From the passenger side
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g420/aussie_male1au/00040305.jpg
As you can see, bugger all hose and none of the fittings you have. Wouldn't of thought that the MK would of changed that much from the MQ

[Crankshaft]

OK thank you It helped me confirm that mine had not been modified.

I think I have worked some of it out.
The water pump hose to the centre of the inlet manifold is into the manifold and it is out at each end
The 3/4 inch hose on the RHS is the return for the heater and one end of the manifold
The plug on the LHS of the block at the back is the outlet to the heater.
The LPG installation manual says "cut the LPG into the heater hoses " so thats what he did when other points we much closer.
The manifold does need heat to avoid a flat spot due to unevaporated fuel.

With all this im mind I think I can reduce some of the pipeing and be able to get at things.


Thanks
Cranky

[aussiemale]

Well, that's a first, actually was able to help another member rather than me leaching the other way LOL

[Crankshaft]

Whoops the one to the centre of the manifold is not water but crankcase ventilation via the PCV valve. -- So I don't get as much tidy up as I hoped.

[aussiemale]

So you're keeping it on gas?

[GQ TANK]

My lpg is "t" off the two heater hoses, where they go into the fire wall.

One side of the convertor goes to the inlet, the otherside to the outlet.

This means that I always have coolant flowing though the convertor. I have seen LPG oinstalls where the convertor is in series with the heater. The end result is that the convertor frezzes if the heater is turned off

[Crankshaft]

Did some more playing and found that the black hose from the crankcase to the centre of the manifold is the second crankcase breather on the L28 engine. One at the top that vents into to aircleaner and one at the bottom that is sucked by the inlet manifold vacuum. This means that an unmetered flow of air comes from the airclaner -- through the crankcase and into the manifold--- no bloody wonder I couldn't get it to run sweet. I replaced the front lower crankcase breather with a welsh plug and then pluged the manifold with a brass 1/4 BSP plug and ------ It tunes .. With the added extractors, gas induction leaks fixed and the breather fixed its now sounds like a race car engine.. ... aaaand its got some torque at the bottom end at last. .. I would still like to get a bit more LOW rev torque and am going to have a play with the timing next.