MK buying advice

[AndyExy]

Good mornings smileys.

I've just been offered an MK patrol. The owner is no longer with us, and his wife wants to be rid of it.

Don't know how much for yet. Don't know if it's worth taking yet. No, I don't know a lot yet. Only had a brief external inspection so far.

I know it's a 1985 model. I know its silver I know it's got a SD33 variant engine.

Is there a way to determine from the engine serial number whether it's turbo or normally aspirated?
I found a post to answer this. Thanks Tim! (Finly) According to your model facts, if its a 1985 model as the rego sticker claims, there it can only be a turbo SD33 as its a wagon.

Yes I know. I'm spending more time going through previous posts before making more questions. Except what I'm doing is starting on page 5 of threads then moving my way forward.

Ta muchlies
Andy

[AndyExy]

Good mornings Oh Wise One's.

I suspect I'll have 101 questions on this topic by the time I've finished. But stop me here please if this has all been done before. I haven't found where yet, but it's always possible.

External Inspection.

I was only able to spend a couple of minutes inspecting the vehicle on the outside. Didn't get a chance to look on the inside. I took a photo of the rego sticker hence I have some of the serial numbers.

I noticed that its been hit a couple of times on the barn doors. The paint work has cracked open and there may also be some rust bubbling on the doors.

Q: Are things like barn doors easy to find for replacements?

Q: Where else are MQ/MK prone to corrode? ie. Where should I be particularly be checking?

Q: Are there any particular regions that if corroded pretty much doom the vehicle to the 'lost cause' department?

thx
andyp

[Aiden]

hey mate
I'm not sure about the serial number, I'd suggest the engine should say if its turbo.

But about finding barn door. Most wreckers have at least 1 MQ or MK, you'd just have to have a look in your area.

Almost all Nissan Patrols, especially the older ones, are prone to rust in the roof gutters!! door sils, and in the bottom of the doors if water has got inside.

[AndyExy]

hey mate
I'm not sure about the serial number, I'd suggest the engine should say if its turbo.

But about finding barn door. Most wreckers have at least 1 MQ or MK, you'd just have to have a look in your area.

Almost all Nissan Patrols, especially the older ones, are prone to rust in the roof gutters!! door sils, and in the bottom of the doors if water has got inside.

Thanks Aiden. I think I'll have to get back down to Wangaratta in the next endweek or two and start crawling around with a bright light to see what the evil oxidation monster has been up to. Hopefully it isn't too bad.

I'm guessing there's some areas of rust that are easy to repair, some expensive but possible to repair, and others that just write the vehicle off. What areas would fall into that latter category?

[GQ TANK]

Haeook at the chassis / body points as this is the most loction for sevre rust.

Turbo - if you look at the exhaust is there a a round potato looking unit - this would be your turbo.

Im pretty shore not all vehilces had the turbo

What shape are the head lights - round= MQ retangle = MK

Also the MQ sd222 where 24 volts / mk where 12 volts

[MQ MAD]

A wagon with barn doors is called a van, cause of the barn doors, bit like a commercial type version if you like....
Barn doors are hard to obtain and not worth alot
It could be a non turbo SD33, depends on maybe its options, being a base end version well who knows
Look at the engine the turbo engine will have "Turbo" on the rocker cover and look down the exhaust side of the engine and youll see either a turbo or just an exhaust manifold

Is it worth getting ???
Well depending on the asking price , that alone will determine very quickly an answer
To dear, walk away , cheap and within what you want to pay , investigate some more

Rust areas,
Roof gutters, front floor pans, radiator support panel, under the battery tray (eats into the inner guard)bottom of doors, (cheap for replacements), rear lower 1/4 panels ,(many remove for a 1/4 panel chop),more clearance off road
Repairs and there cost will determine what parts you can find for bolt on replacement parts,like doors, guards ect, how handy you are with a welder,and how nifty you are at body repairs and paint work

Chuck up the Qs and im sure may can help you....
They are well over 30 years old, dont expect a rolls royce for minimal bucks
They will have some issues of sorts

[AndyExy]

Haeook at the chassis / body points as this is the most loction for sevre rust.

Turbo - if you look at the exhaust is there a a round potato looking unit - this would be your turbo.

Im pretty shore not all vehilces had the turbo

What shape are the head lights - round= MQ retangle = MK

Also the MQ sd222 where 24 volts / mk where 12 volts

G'day tank. Definitely square peep holes at the front. The rego sticker claims it's an '85 model which makes it squarely MK

[AndyExy]

A wagon with barn doors is called a van, cause of the barn doors, bit like a commercial type version if you like....
Barn doors are hard to obtain and not worth alot
It could be a non turbo SD33, depends on maybe its options, being a base end version well who knows
Look at the engine the turbo engine will have "Turbo" on the rocker cover and look down the exhaust side of the engine and youll see either a turbo or just an exhaust manifold

Is it worth getting ???
Well depending on the asking price , that alone will determine very quickly an answer
To dear, walk away , cheap and within what you want to pay , investigate some more

Rust areas,
Roof gutters, front floor pans, radiator support panel, under the battery tray (eats into the inner guard)bottom of doors, (cheap for replacements), rear lower 1/4 panels ,(many remove for a 1/4 panel chop),more clearance off road
Repairs and there cost will determine what parts you can find for bolt on replacement parts,like doors, guards ect, how handy you are with a welder,and how nifty you are at body repairs and paint work

Chuck up the Qs and im sure may can help you....
They are well over 30 years old, dont expect a rolls royce for minimal bucks
They will have some issues of sorts

Hey Mad, where would I find out more information about the "van" models?
The rego sticker calls it a '85 S wagon. Which I guess is the generic term. Finly's post on '85 models mentions nothing about "vans".
There were no external markings on the rear to tell me what it was. So could be good to get an idea of what it could be before I make another trip up to Wang to investigation further. Will make sure keys are available too next time.
Oooo... I feel more questions coming on... :)

I'd better write all this info down on what to inspect.

[Silver]

Check that the plenum chamber - the area under the grille near the windscreen wipers, has not rusted through.

This will allow a leak onto the floor, which in turn will rust out the floor, including the body mounts, which are lower than the rest of the floor and hence trap water.

Mine had barn doors - but was a 1982 MQ L28 petrol wagon. It also had rust in the panel at the very back outside of the load space, across the bottom of the opening to the load space - well, very little rust because a lot of it was bog courtesy of a previous owner.

It also developed rust at the top of the rear wheel arch.

I liked my MQ, but I love the coil springs in my GQ in comparison. Not to mention an aircon that actually cools the cabin :-)

Make sure you can crack the drain and fill plugs on the diffs, gear box and transfer case.

If you go ahead with the deal, and don't already have one, buy a quality grease gun - unlike my Mav, the MQ had lots more grease nipples - even taking into account the Q had leaf springs with greasable shackles.

[Finly Owner]

Andy, My ComradMQ Mad didmention to check for turbo, because some clever di.ks put the trbo rocker cover on non-turbo SD33.

It looked cool saying it had aturbo, but sounded stock!


Tim

[AndyExy]

Andy, My ComradMQ Mad didmention to check for turbo, because some clever di.ks put the trbo rocker cover on non-turbo SD33.

It looked cool saying it had aturbo, but sounded stock!


Tim

Hiya Tim, yes I'll be checking for the turbo itself. I've added this to my "checklist". But it won't be for a few weeks yet until I can next get to it.
Gotta get past my sister's wedding and also the mrs' resistance to acquiring it - not that she should complain - her car is currently at the doc's and the repair bill so far is exceeding the market value of her car!
But hey, she's driving Toot Toot (the exy) today so she might even come to like it. :)

Do you have any additional information on what spec "van" models came in?
Particularly 1985. The rego engine number starts with SD33 so I'm hoping that's what is still under the bonnet.

The way I'm looking at things at the moment is to arm myself as much as possible, including writing up and printing out a checklist sort of thing, so I can make the most of the time when I next get to see it.

Now to keep writing up this check list and search the forum as to what sort of hubs these critters came with.

(You know, even if I don't end up with this vehicle, everything I learn about it will find a use somewhere down the line with something else - knowledge is always an investment)

[AndyExy]

Here we go. Worked out how to add a picture of the critter...

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/vorlon1971/fedd9a39.jpg

[MQ MAD]

Andy, My ComradMQ Mad didmention to check for turbo, because some clever di.ks put the trbo rocker cover on non-turbo SD33.

It looked cool saying it had aturbo, but sounded stock!


Tim
So that would make it a "Turboed" non turbo ???
Must admit ive got a "Turbo" rocker covered non turboed SD33 here,(dont ask ???)
They definately dont make em go any better

OP,
If your in doubt, just take a few pics of said beast and throw em up, engine bay area, interior, stuff like that

[AndyExy]

Mornings smileys,

What should be done to an SD33 / SD33T engine prior to starting it after its been sitting about not turned over for a while (ie. could be 6 months or longer)?

I was thinking that first I should check the battery:
- apparently the battery is relatively 'new'
> I'm not sure yet just what 'new' means and how long it may have been discharged (if it actually is)
- terminal corrosion
> cleaning if necessary
- electrolyte level (if it can be accessed)
> topping it up

? > should I use distilled water, or a battery conditioning solution?

- I'd run the jumper leads from my critter over to the battery and let mine charge other battery (just letting my engine idle) for a little while (15 minutes perhaps) before thinking of doing the jump start.
> unfortunately I won't have the luxury of putting the battery on a charger over night.

? > do you think I should leave this charging longer before attempting a jump?

? dunno what else I should check on the battery


After that battery I was thinking maybe the air filter
- opening up the box and giving it a vacuum maybe
- taking out the airfilter and at least giving it a bit of a knock to loosen off any dust
- note, if buying this vehicle I would subsequently change the filter, but I don't want to go replacing these things until I've fired it up and decide to buy...

? anything else that I should particularly look for in this area?


Oil... this one is tricky?
- I don't want to go spending money on changing the oil straight away...
- But... I have no idea when the last oil change was. It is potentially years ago. Although it may have not done a lot of running, I'm guessing that oil may have gone off / degraded / absorbed moisture, or any number of other things during its time sitting idle.
- So I would pull the dipstick first and check the oil level...
- Then I would have a look at the colour of it. I'm presuming it'll be a nice black colour, but could be brown with white or who knows.

? Provided there is enough oil in there, will it matter if I fire it up without the oil change, and perhaps drive it for a kilometre?
> note that if I buy it I will be dumping all the oil, putting new stuff in, perhaps running it for a short while (a couple of hundred kms perhaps), then adding flush treatment and changing the oil again...

- I think I might just leave the oil initially. Might not be the best...but, yes, but, no, but...

- But what about the upper engine and oil...
> all the oil I figure will be in the sump
> so cranking will initially be against a dry engine... I don't like that idea.

? > is there a way I can squirt some oil around the upper engine through the 710 cap?
(No, I'm not really blonde, not even bleached. Just remembered that joke for some reason)

> With an engine with spark plugs, you could pull the plugs and squirt oil into the top of the cylinder head. These don't have sparkies...

? > Is it worthwhile trying to do this by pulling the glow plugs?

? > Am I just trying to find too much work for myself to do just for starting an engine to make sure it runs???

? > Is there any risk that any rings could have bound themselves and hence would crack when the engine is cranked?

? > Next million questions?

? > What else should I look at in this oily department?


More fluid bits
- Brakes, check the level in the reservoir.
> I guess I can pump them a few times to see if I can get pressure feedback on the pedal
> If I don't I guess I will have to investigate somewhat further

? Clutch, guess similar deal to brakes?

- Diffs - I won't worry about them yet...

- Coolant
> Need to check level

? > If it requires a top-up, what coolant is recommended for these radiators? I'm assuming at this stage that its an original radiator.

? > Why are they called radiators? They don't cool by radiating heat, their primary cooling mechanism is via convective heat transfer. Should probably be called convectors.


Fuel
- Don't know the last time fresh fuel was put in.
- I could add a bit of fresh diesel, but I don't know how much is currently in the tank and hence whether it would make any difference.
- Same deal with adding a diesel conditioner I guess. Would take a while for it to start running through the filters and lines.

? Would it need to be primed?

? On my M9R there is a little squeeze bulb hand pump for priming the diesel in case you ever run it dry. Is there something similar on the SD33?



I guess what I'm looking for here is the minimum I need to do to safely awaken her from her slumber.
If all is a go for acquiring this critter then a lot of stuff would then be changed.

? Anything else that I should be checking before waking her from her slumber?

[MQ MAD]

Easy,
Check all the fuilds, engine top up with proper diesel oil,petrol oil IS different,but if theres enuf in there,thatll be fine
Check the brake master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder and top up IF neccessary,but for the initial,half to full is fine
Radiator, just top it up at this satge with water,its only an initial start
Fluids dont spend anything on much you mite not buy it,so could be a waste of money
The engine will be fine,its more so the time the diesel has been sitting wether it could or mite not start,if not too long itll be fine
Dont bother with pulling glow plugs out at this stage,ensure the battery has enuf grunt and itll usually start
Double glow the glow plugs for the initial start up, turn the key to ignition, youll hear a click sound, then a few seconds later another click, then turn key back to off and repeat,double glowed
Youll also need to hear the edit motor work,sort of like an actuated arm moving,if this doesnt happen itll never start
The diesel battery needs alot of power,if the one in said patrol is half flat a normal car battery via a jump usually wont do a thing
Thats for the initial wake up period, after a purchase has been done well thats different and things will need to be done, but if it doesnt look good at this stage then it doesnt matter
Theres diesel patrols here, that dont get started for awhile, maybe months and there fine


Another tip :
IF after the initial start up , you can let it sit for awhile, recheck the dipstick and check the oil,if theres milky residue,or water molecules on the dipstick (this can be checked before start up as well)then the head gasket or head has issues

[AndyExy]

Easy,
Dont bother with pulling glow plugs out at this stage,ensure the battery has enuf grunt and itll usually start
Double glow the glow plugs for the initial start up, turn the key to ignition, youll hear a click sound, then a few seconds later another click, then turn key back to off and repeat,double glowed
Youll also need to hear the edit motor work,sort of like an actuated arm moving,if this doesnt happen itll never start
The diesel battery needs alot of power,if the one in said patrol is half flat a normal car battery via a jump usually wont do a thing
Thats for the initial wake up period, after a purchase has been done well thats different and things will need to be done, but if it doesnt look good at this stage then it doesnt matter
Theres diesel patrols here, that dont get started for awhile, maybe months and there fine


Another tip :
IF after the initial start up , you can let it sit for awhile, recheck the dipstick and check the oil,if theres milky residue,or water molecules on the dipstick (this can be checked before start up as well)then the head gasket or head has issues

thanks MQ Mad. For the jump start I'd be jumping off my Exy with it's engine running. It's a diesel as well so should take the load quite easily.
Not sure what the edit motor is.
I'll print all this info out so I can have it with me.
Just a thanks on the post doesnt seem enough. Ta muchlies for your help sir.

[Ric]

Good mornings smileys.

I've just been offered an MK patrol. The owner is no longer with us, and his wife wants to be rid of it.

Don't know how much for yet. Don't know if it's worth taking yet. No, I don't know a lot yet. Only had a brief external inspection so far.

I know it's a 1985 model. I know its silver I know it's got a SD33 variant engine.

Is there a way to determine from the engine serial number whether it's turbo or normally aspirated?
I found a post to answer this. Thanks Tim! (Finly) According to your model facts, if its a 1985 model as the rego sticker claims, there it can only be a turbo SD33 as its a wagon.

Yes I know. I'm spending more time going through previous posts before making more questions. Except what I'm doing is starting on page 5 of threads then moving my way forward.

Ta muchlies
Andy

G'day Andy
Did not notice if anyone else mention this but the Engine number will have a "T" at the end if its Turbo eg; SD3375427868T .

This is not to say that a previous owner has not fitted an aftermarket turbo. Be careful if this is the case as the standard SD33 engine is not designed to take a turbo without modification.
There are quite a few differences between the NA engine and the Factory Turbo engine.
**Edit I just noticed you say it may have only been sitting for 6 months or so, Not much to worry about in that case just charge the battery, check oil & water and turn her over.

I have jump started my Turbo MK a few times from my 93 ford falcon without a problem. Just hooked up the jumpers and off I went.
As long as it was running OK last time it was driven all I would do is have a good visual look over and under the engine, Check and charge the battery, check the oil. If its black it should be OK. Check the radiator and coolant reservoir to make sure they are full. If not top it up fully with water. One thing though, if you can, drain the fuel tank and put fresh in, otherwise there may well be a heap of water in the fuel tank from condensation over the years of non use. Don't worry too much about changing the oil just to fire it up but for sure if you buy it, make that the first job.
It will probably be a bit smokey at first but if the smoke clears pretty quickly as she warms up and there is only a small amount of grey/white smoke that is a good sign. Puff of black smoke as you pump the accelerator is also OK. Blue smoke can be a worry but if she has been sitting a few years there might be a bit of oil in the cylinders. If it continues to blow blue smoke that is not good. (In saying this don't mistake white/grey smoke for blue smoke)
Shut it down after a minute or so running, leave for 5 minutes and then check the oil again to see it is still nice and black

How much $$$ are you looking at paying for this truck??

Cheers Ric

[AndyExy]

G'day Andy
Did not notice if anyone else mention this but the Engine number will have a "T" at the end if its Turbo eg; SD3375427868T .

This is not to say that a previous owner has not fitted an aftermarket turbo. Be careful if this is the case as the standard SD33 engine is not designed to take a turbo without modification.
There are quite a few differences between the NA engine and the Factory Turbo engine.
**Edit I just noticed you say it may have only been sitting for 6 months or so, Not much to worry about in that case just charge the battery, check oil & water and turn her over.

I have jump started my Turbo MK a few times from my 93 ford falcon without a problem. Just hooked up the jumpers and off I went.
As long as it was running OK last time it was driven all I would do is have a good visual look over and under the engine, Check and charge the battery, check the oil. If its black it should be OK. Check the radiator and coolant reservoir to make sure they are full. If not top it up fully with water. One thing though, if you can, drain the fuel tank and put fresh in, otherwise there may well be a heap of water in the fuel tank from condensation over the years of non use. Don't worry too much about changing the oil just to fire it up but for sure if you buy it, make that the first job.
It will probably be a bit smokey at first but if the smoke clears pretty quickly as she warms up and there is only a small amount of grey/white smoke that is a good sign. Puff of black smoke as you pump the accelerator is also OK. Blue smoke can be a worry but if she has been sitting a few years there might be a bit of oil in the cylinders. If it continues to blow blue smoke that is not good. (In saying this don't mistake white/grey smoke for blue smoke)
Shut it down after a minute or so running, leave for 5 minutes and then check the oil again to see it is still nice and black

How much $$$ are you looking at paying for this truck??

Cheers Ric

Thanks Ric. The engine number I have is off the rego sticker and it doesn't have any T. Doesnt have as many numbers as your example either. Guess I'll find out. :)

Is there a fuel drain point in the bottom of the tank? I know there is on aircraft so you can remove the water from the tank.

As for price, that's yet to be negotiated. At this point it's for me to define. But as it's pseudo family I have to be fair. So I'll have to investigate that aspect as well, taking into account I'll also be getting the rwc done.

[Ric]

The numbers were not correct. just random numbers ( should be 6 numbers after the SD33) but it should have the SD33 at the start and the "T" at the end.

I just checked my Gregory's manual and it indicates there is a fuel drain plug in the tank, BUT if it's only been 6 or so months I would not worry too much. Maybe just add a bit of fresh fuel.
If you are concerned just undo the plug a bit and let a couple of litres out. Any water should be sitting at the bottom of the tank.
Probably better to not bother otherwise you might end up having to prime the fuel pump again.

As I said above, If its only 6 or so months I would not be worrying too much as everything should be fine to just fire her up, as long as it was running OK when it was last being used.

Good Luck
Cheers Ric

[GQ TANK]

I have a pair of barns doors that we could do a deal on (they are silver as well)

I have a tail gate & lift up window, was looking at itting the doors - but would be a lot of work

Im in melton

[AndyExy]

I have a pair of barns doors that we could do a deal on (they are silver as well)

I have a tail gate & lift up window, was looking at itting the doors - but would be a lot of work

Im in melton

Hey tank, sounds interesting. Melton doesn't take long at all to get to.

I'm a bit frustrated at the moment. I'm writing this from Wang but I can't go see the MK! In convoy with relos on the way to sis's wedding in Wagga.

Don't know when I'd want the doors but we'll see what happens when it's time.

Cheers mate for letting me know.

Andy

[GQ TANK]

Mate you need to let me know as I just listed them on the other forum.

[AndyExy]

Mate you need to let me know as I just listed them on the other forum.

Mate, if they go then they go. I can't commit it them and I can't ask you to hold them. If it's meant to be then it will happen.

Andy

[AndyExy]

I think my biggest problem with this MK is knowing what can and can't be fixed.
Definite rusting through the sills beneath the doors. :(

[AndyExy]

I think it may be in need of service... Last due feb 2005...

[MQ MAD]

I think my biggest problem with this MK is knowing what can and can't be fixed.
Definite rusting through the sills beneath the doors. :(

Anything can be fixed,its a matter of are you willing to have a go or throw it in the too hard basket ???

Small bubbles of rust can be hard for many, but full sill,floor replacements are a walk in the park to some

What sorta bucks we talking for this love truck ???

[AndyExy]

Anything can be fixed,its a matter of are you willing to have a go or throw it in the too hard basket ???

Small bubbles of rust can be hard for many, but full sill,floor replacements are a walk in the park to some

What sorta bucks we talking for this love truck ???

Hey mad, yes I'm sure anything can be fixed. I don't know what I can fix yet. I've never even serviced a vehicle or used a welder. But I'm thinking it's a chance to learns and I've just got to find the right people for advice / assistance to keep me straight.

It's calling to me as a challenge though. I'm collating a few pics and will piece together some questions.

I'll have to chat to the wife as well. If
I can put the case together sufficiently to convince both her and me, I can look at further options.

I need to get back to Wang with some real jump leads. The ones I had with mr have a little thingy that senses polarity of the connections. But as the MK battery was only putting out 0.3V, it couldnt work out the polarity so let no current through. So couldn't start her. :(

What's the TARE of the MK?

My Exy has a 2T tow limit so wondering about sticking the MK on the back of a trailer.

No numbers have been actually discussed. But after what I saw, I'm wondering if $500 is generous. But how much would it fetch as a parts car on the market? Gives me something to go on.

[MQ MAD]

The demand on parts and prices can depend on the state your in and the demand at the time
No or minimal demand , and well you want sell anything, high demand youll be fine
The diesel gear is getting harder to get , but still not worth the national debt
The othe rissue is most of us patrol nutters have 1 or 2 or more pats cars and only buy what we dont have,or sometimes even trade parts,works to
What it worth, well go with the offer and see what happens, if its fair youll get it, if its too dear ask what they want then
$500 take a punt, the drive trains if in good nick are nearly bullet proof
If it costs ya total a few grand on the road, youll get your $$$ worth

[AndyExy]

Ah, this is better. Easier to type on the work computer than on the mobi. :)

I guess it comes down to just how much money I'm prepared to pour into it as well. At what point would it be cheaper to get a reasonable condition GQ instead or something.

I need to make a list of what I can see would need to be done. Things like the sills being patched / replaced, maybe that well thingy in front of the windscreen - have got a photo showing rust peeking through the paint on the front of the firewall. I checked the drivers floor pan and it was covered with light surface rust, but appeared to be quite sound. Not sure on passenger side - was difficult to get at that one and ran out of time. Appears to be lots of surface rust underneath at the body mounts, but not sure if its really too bad. The contrast in the photos from the flash makes them look like real shockers. Seats will probably all need to be replaced. Drivers appears to have collapsed some at the cushion. The rear is dropping to the left when not supported by the pillar bracket. There's evidence of lubricant weeping at most joints in the drivetrain. Don't know if that's just because its been sitting in varying temperatures for so long.
The odo has only 247,000 km on it. Next service is set for 250k. It does mention on the sticker that O/T should be checked next service. Haven't worked out what that is yet.
Found a few stray wires under the dash, so suspect bits have been in an out so would need to look at electricals - but I guess I would anyway.
Real kicker I guess is the engine. I wasn't able to jump it because my cables were too smart to be useful. But this time I was told that it can't be remembered just when the last time it was that it was turned over. The battery electrolyte was just shy of the top of the plates and was dead as a dodo (0.3V). I suspect its been sitting there a long time since last crank. So don't know what colour smoke she'll blow.
The engine was black - like its had oil mist or something on it that's combined with dust etc to create a coating. That was over the head and the hook at the front end etc. Probably should have got a better pic of that. So don't know why all that stuff would be there.
Oh it's definitely N/A - no potato linking the exhaust to the inlet.
Not sure about roof damage. The roof sills are fine. But the carport, which is elevated by bricks, fell onto the roof one day.
Does the roof have vinyl on it or something? Something was definitely cracked and peeled.
The paint work is definitely cracking all over the body.
Whilst I was there water was dripping out of the sills. I don't know how it was actually getting into them. Is there an internal path down the A-pillar, or from the front windscreen well to them? Water was dripping on the roof, but there was also a drip onto the windscreen. Given the condition of all the window seals its quite possible its getting past all them as well.
Bah, work is interrupting. But really I've got to get my thoughts ordered as well.
One thing going for it is that its still in rego. So I would make an arrangement to keep it in their rego until I can get it ready for roadworthy (can do that with pseudo-family :) )
andyp

[AndyExy]

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/vorlon1971/c2471d8e.jpg

hopefully works. is the image too large?

sill beneath passenger door. penetrated by rust.

[AndyExy]

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/vorlon1971/66a078f8.jpg

top of firewall, rust showing through paint at bottom of windscreen well. don't know where else the well may have rusted through. I didn't see evidence of water within the cabin, but I'm wondering if the water is escaping down the inside of the A-pillar down to the sills.

[AndyExy]

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/vorlon1971/9580a10f.jpg

Now which image am i up to??? Oh yeah, sill beneath drivers door. Not sure, does this look like its been bogged up before? Its coming apart whatever it is.

[AndyExy]

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/vorlon1971/527708eb.jpg

another view of drivers sill. there was still water dripping out from under this. so its coming through from somewhere...

[AndyExy]

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/vorlon1971/066a05d6.jpg

So much room!!!!! I love the space! Rear seat is noticably leaning down to the right. Later took a bit of effort to lift it up onto the retaining bracket on the pillar. General condition inside seems to be reasonable, excepting the seats.
There's a bag of concrete there. Don't know how long its been there for, but its definitely solid.

[AndyExy]

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/vorlon1971/8b4917b3.jpg

Exhaust Manifold thingy. Definitely no turbo in there.

[AndyExy]

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad58/vorlon1971/6503c5e1.jpg

One of the driver's side body mounts. The flash on the phone camera makes the rust stand out nicely don't you think?

Oh, I also noticed when I lifted up the carpet on the driver's side, that I could turn the body mount bolt with my fingers. I'm guessing I'm not supposed to be able to do that???

[Finly Owner]

You certainly have som work ahead of you. But, if Michelle can, you can. I think your sill has definately hadsome work done going by the blak paint and holden mudflaps. No wonder its rusting wearing holden parts. But in reality, you rust spots are normal. And no you should not be able to spin the mounting bolts. New rubbers needed.



Tim

[MQ MAD]

Bitta work , but its not too bad and alot worse has been fixed
The issue is some of the extent of the rust wont be revealed to you start attacking it, it could be moisture under the paint causing the paint to lift or be gapping holes
The seats in the picture look like the 3 seater style, just replace with bucket seats,not hard factory style bolt straight in
The big question you need to ask yourself is, how much time and money are you willing to spend,or are you cashed to buy a better example or maybe a GQ

Find out what sorta $$$ the owner wants, and maybe go look at some others

[GQ TANK]

The question is.

Do you have the skill, abilty, time space tools etc to get it back on the road.

I would also see if you can have a drive of a mk / mq lwb as they are stiffer ride then newer models.

You might not like the ride after spending a lot of time & work.

I like my MK - very happy with it on and off road.

Where are youlocated?

[AndyExy]

You certainly have som work ahead of you. But, if Michelle can, you can. I think your sill has definately hadsome work done going by the blak paint and holden mudflaps. No wonder its rusting wearing holden parts. But in reality, you rust spots are normal. And no you should not be able to spin the mounting bolts. New rubbers needed.



Tim

Yeah I thought the Holden flaps an interesting touch. I don't know when any of that was done to it. Unfortunately that information is probably pretty much gone.

I'm sure Michelle can spin spanners leaving me in the dust - and if not she'd just take my head off with the angle grinder. :)

[threedogs]

The holes in the floor are called track inspection points, great for slow rock crawling

[AndyExy]

Bitta work , but its not too bad and alot worse has been fixed
The issue is some of the extent of the rust wont be revealed to you start attacking it, it could be moisture under the paint causing the paint to lift or be gapping holes
The seats in the picture look like the 3 seater style, just replace with bucket seats,not hard factory style bolt straight in
The big question you need to ask yourself is, how much time and money are you willing to spend,or are you cashed to buy a better example or maybe a GQ

Find out what sorta $$$ the owner wants, and maybe go look at some others

I guess the main thing I sort of wanted to know is whether it is possible to do - but then I guess just about anything is with enough skill/time/money. Not not particularly cashed up at the moment. In an interesting scenario with the mrs needing to replace her car, and maybe willing to take the exy for a short while, but we still need mobile cars. Don't know how long the mk would be off the road for.

I think I'll give her a call tomorrow and see if she's sold it. Will be taking a risk by not having started the engine - but if it really has been so long since it was last started (judging by the battery) it probably would be a good idea to give it a bit of attention anyway. I guess will just have to hope that it's not a blue smoker. The other alternative is to make another trip out to Wang and pick up some basic jump cables up from kmart or so on the way. Hmmm...

How much current do these things draw on start up?

[AndyExy]

The question is.

Do you have the skill, abilty, time space tools etc to get it back on the road.

I would also see if you can have a drive of a mk / mq lwb as they are stiffer ride then newer models.

You might not like the ride after spending a lot of time & work.

I like my MK - very happy with it on and off road.

Where are youlocated?

I'm not too worried about how stiff the ride is (famous last words?). Can always throw more stuff in the back to soften it up. So much space back there!!! But I already have the expectation that it will be like driving something between a tractor and a truck. Yes okay, okay, I might be insulting a few, but if I start with that expectation, then I can only be pleasantly surprised! I have no delusions that it will be as good as the Exy in terms of ride, even though the exy has lifted and much stiffer springs than stock.

As for having the skills, let's see. I've never changed oil before. Haven't done brakes. Know where the dipstick is. Know where to put oil in. Know how to put a socket on the end of a nut. Even have an idea on how a torque wrench operates, but have never used one in anger. My mechanical skills have never been tested (other than basic servicing on the lawn mower) and my vocation has me punching keys on the keyboard all day. So in summary I have sweet FA in the way of skills and I acknowledge that. I hope that I've inherited some capability from my father though, and I figure you have to start somewhere...

Tools, I've got a few of them. Will certainly need more. Don't have a welder (never done that before either). Have spanners, sockets, torque-wrench, and other basic hand tools.

Space is an interesting issue. Don't have any undercover space. Will probably have to park it temporarily on the front lawn, which would be great motivation for the mrs to let me get out and shift the shed down the back so I could then get the mk down the driveway and out the back. Would put it on concrete pavers and then keep it covered over fully to prevent further degeneration.

So don't know where I haven't got a challenge to overcome with this. :)

I'm located in Ashwood, in the eastern 'burbs of Melby. Know Melton only slightly; bought my Exy from Alan Mance there and have a granny over there. It would take less time for me to drive from work in Port Melbourne out to Melton, than it would to drive from work to Ashwood - which is only a 20km trip.

[AndyExy]

The holes in the floor are called track inspection points, great for slow rock crawling

And to see what it was that made that strange meow/squawk noise when the front wheel bumped over it.

[AndyExy]

And apologies to anyone who had trouble with the pictures. I didn't realise they were so large. They certainly didn't look that big on tapatalk on the phone. Only just seen them for the first time on the big puter.

[MQ MAD]

Dont be scared to verture into the unknown
Nothin ventured nothin gained ....
My best mates ol man was a fully qualified mechanic, the old skool way,no computer stuff,when blokes knew how to fix things not told by some computer screen
My mate was there by his side on most things,today he couldnt be bothered doin his own oil changes,annoys me to have that knowledge lost

With the advancement of internet and the knowledge around the place youll learn the lingo,the issues, quickly
Go for it

[GQ TANK]

Manuals are avaible and there is a lot of knoldge around.

I have done engine changes in my drive way - my garage is down the back of the block. With two roller doors the mk wont fitt in, plus there the boat, camping trailer, tip trailer etc in the way.

Just pick your days to work on the truck